Contents: Introduction; Post-Conflict Re-emergence and Identity; Cambodian Nationalism(s) and Identity; Discourses of Identity in Post-Conflict Cambodia; Locating Agency in the Development Discourse: Women and Spaces of Dissent in the Silk Sector; Conclusion: Problematizing Post-Conflict Approaches to Identity in Cambodia; Works Cited

Ce mémoire a pour sujet la démarche artistique de François Girard, plus précisément son plus récent long-métrage, Silk, sorti en 2007. Cette coproduction internationale a été le lieu de multiples et fructueuses rencontres interculturelles et le film traduit une importante réflexion sur l'altérité, l'interculturalité et, ultimement, l'intermédialité. Nous nous intéressons donc à la manière dont le réalisateur intègre dans son art et dans son film l'apport culturel de l'Autre afin de réfléchir sur les rapports entre Orient et Occident. Pour réaliser ce film, il s'est notamment inspiré de la peinture sinojaponaise et de la poétique du haïku: la forme même du film fait écho à l'histoire transculturelle d'Hervé Joncour. En plus d'être caractérisé par la mise en contact de plusieurs cultures, le projet de Girard, en tant qu'adaptation cinématographique, s'appuie sur un autre rapport d'altérité, c'est-à-dire la différence entre deux démarches artistiques et deux médias distincts. En effet, le réalisateur s'est réapproprié le roman d'Alessandro Barrico intitulé Seta, en tâchant de réconcilier sa liberté créatrice et sa volonté d'être « fidèle» au texte écrit. Dans le but de montrer combien il est réducteur de juger de la qualité d'une telle adaptation uniquement en fonction d'un critère de fidélité, nous nous attardons au travail de (ré)écriture de Girard. Il est un artiste qui prône, à travers son oeuvre, non seulement la fusion entre les arts, mais aussi le dialogue entre les cultures. ______________________________________________________________________________ MOTS-CLÉS DE L’AUTEUR : François Girard, Silk, altérité, adaptation cinématographique, réécriture, transferts culturels, (néo) japonisme

The goal of the thesis is to incorporate materials with either fluorescent or conductive properties in silk fibers, by feeding silkworms with a diet containing these materials. To achieve this, one would have to breed (rear) silkworm from eggs into larvaes, then to feed the silkworms with this special diet containing fluorescent or conductive materials. Samples of silk were then collected either from spun cocoons or via removing the silk producing organs (silk glands) from the silkworms via dissection. The samples were then analyzed with absorbance spectrometer, spectrofluorometer or via photoluminesecent measurement to determine if any materials had been incorporated into the silk fibers.   Silkworms were successfully reared from eggs up to moths, once the silkworm larvae had grown enough in size their diet were switches from their regular food (silkworm chow) to food containing conjugated molecules or polymers with fluorescent or conductive properties. A total of 14 materials were tested. One material gave a clear positive result and that was from the fluorescent compound Rhodamine B. Other fluorescent materials, Nile red and POWT yielded some results indicating their presence in the silk but the results were not conclusive. The rest of the materials all failed with being incorporated within the silk fibers; this was due to their lethality, size, lack of zwitterionic properties and such.  The properties of the materials are of great importance for the uptake process, where a small zwitterionic molecule has a great change of being taken up and incorporated in the silk fibers. Whereas a big materials such as a polymer without any zwitterionic will in most cases just follow through the food in the digestive track without any uptake.

Cocoon cooking wastewaters (CW) and silk degumming wastewaters (SDW) of silk processing industry were treated by membrane processes for sericin recovery. CW contains only sericin while SDW contains both sericin and soap. Sericin in CW had four molecular weight (MW) fractions / 175-200 kDa (Sericin-1), 70-90 kDa (Sericin-2), 30-40 kDa (Sericin-3) and 10-25 kDa (Sericin-4). Two alternative process trains were developed for CW / 1. centrifugation + microfiltration + nanofiltration + precipitation, 2. centrifugation + microfiltration + nanofiltration + dialysis + precipitation. In the first process, a sericin/silkworm protein mixture was obtained with a sericin content of 39-46%. In the second one, however, a pure sericin product was obtained. The sericin recovery efficiency of the developed process train was found as 76%. Severe flux declines of 70-75% were observed in NF stage in both process trains. However, cleaning with 0.5 M NaOH and 190-200 mg/L free chlorine restored the fluxes by 83-127%. The MW of sericin in SDW was 110-120 kDa. The soap and sericin were separated in the pre-treatment stage consisting of centrifugation (pH 3.5, 10 min) and gravity settling (4 oC, 24 h). The ultrafiltration membrane with molecular weight cut-off of 5 kDa achieved 59% sericin recovery at pH 3.5, accompanied by severe flux decline of 88%. Furthermore, clean water flux was restored by only 31% via chemical cleaning.

Human beings¡¦ attire evolves, starting from having the functions of providing comfort and keeping warm in the primary stage, and then it is for looking good and fashion; then, attire becomes the symbol of demonstrating personal taste, fashion and social identity; finally, it evolves into the tendency to demonstrate personal value¡X the value performance of health tendency, environmental protection appeal, and green consumption. As the era evolves, consumers¡¦ demand and preferences have different tendencies. Under the planning of market segmentation, aiming at the attire materials based on health appeal, we hope to understand further: in such an era with fast changes in upgraded techniques, consumers¡¦ preferences and prices, what factors make consumers choose and buy? Hence, when companies are making product and marketing plans further, they can make them exquisite and conform to trendy fashion. Therefore, this study has explored the key success factors aimed at developing attire of healthful materials. Through questionnaire surveys for experts and scholars on the study of the key success factors aimed at developing attire of healthful materials, this study had made two times of analyses of AHP verification and statistics, in order to verify and extend the gained results by AHP. The study results in the second time have been adopted, and the following viewpoints have been proposed at the same time: 1. As for the study on the key success factors for developing attire of healthful materials, through two times of AHP data analyses, this study is of the opinion that the key factors are the six items: ¡§physiological comfort¡¨, ¡§functionality capability¡¨, ¡§manufacturing quality and craft techniques¡¨, ¡§style and design, ergonomics¡¨, ¡§user experience¡¨ and ¡§price¡¨. 2. In the evaluation indicators chosen for the third-layer reference plan in the structure of this study, when the direction is based on developing attire of healthful materials, obviously silk material is superior to organic cotton, while organic cotton is superior to bamboo-carbon fiber. 3. Under different considerations, silk material possesses considerably large advantage in the four key factors: ¡§physiological comfort¡¨, ¡§manufacturing quality and craft techniques¡¨, ¡§user experience¡¨ , and ¡§declaring personality and personal value¡¨. Organic cotton also possesses considerable advantage in the factors of ¡§style and design, ergonomics¡¨, and ¡§brand¡¨. Bamboo-carbon material has advantage of product development in the three items: ¡§price¡¨, ¡§trendy fashion¡¨, and ¡§functionality capability¡¨.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--University of Washington, 2001. / Vita. Includes bibliographical references (leaves 556-597).

Production of brand new protein-based materials with precise control over the amino acid sequences at single residue level has been made possible by genetic engineering, through which artificial genes can be developed that encode protein-based materials with desired features. As an example, silk-elastinlike protein polymers (SELPs), composed of tandem repeats of amino acid sequence motifs from Bombyx mori (silkworm) silk and mammalian elastin, have been produced in this approach. SELPs have been studied extensively in the past two decades, however, the fundamental mechanism governing the self-assembly process to date still remains largely unresolved. Further, regardless of the unprecedented success when exploited in areas including drug delivery, gene therapy, and tissue augmentation, SELPs scaffolds as a three-dimensional cell culture model system are complicated by the inability of SELPs to provide the embedded tissue cells with appropriate biochemical stimuli essential for cell survival and function. In this dissertation, it is reported that the self-assembly of silk-elastinlike protein polymers (SELPs) into nanofibers in aqueous solutions can be modulated by tuning the curing temperature, the size of the silk blocks, and the charge of the elastin blocks. A core-sheath model was proposed for nanofiber formation, with the silk blocks in the cores and the hydrated elastin blocks in the sheaths. The folding of the silk blocks into stable cores - affected by the size of the silk blocks and the charge of the elastin blocks - plays a critical role in the assembly of silk-elastin nanofibers. The assembled nanofibers further form nanofiber clusters on the microscale, and the nanofiber clusters then coalesce into nanofiber micro-assemblies, interconnection of which eventually leads to the formation of three-dimensional scaffolds with distinct nanoscale and microscale features. SELP-Collagen hybrid scaffolds were also fabricated to enable independent control over the scaffolds' biochemical input and matrix stiffness. It is reported herein that in the hybrid scaffolds, collagen provides essential biochemical cues needed to promote cell attachment and function while SELP imparts matrix stiffness tunability. To obtain tissue-specificity in matrix stiffness that spans over several orders of magnitude covering from soft brain to stiff cartilage, the hybrid SELP-Collagen scaffolds were crosslinked by transglutaminase at physiological conditions compatible for simultaneous cell encapsulation. The effect of the increase in matrix stiffness induced by such enzymatic crosslinking on cellular viability and proliferation was also evaluated using in vitro cell assays.

Iš tiesų, menas žmonijos raidai padarė neginčijamai teigiamą įtaką ir mano gyvenime jis ir užima vieną iš svarbiausių vietų. Juk žmogus yra ir kūrėjas, ir menininkas, ir konstruktorius, ir meistras, ir darbininkas. Kuriant kažką svarbaus, mano nuomone, reikalinga idėja, o paskui jos įgyvendinimas. Kaip kiti pasakytų, gera pradžia - pusė darbo. Nesvarbu ar vaizduojamas mažas, ar didelis daiktas, svarbu, kad jis pasakytų tai, ką nori pasakyti. Kiekvienas eksponatas turi atskleisti žiūrovui tam tikrą informaciją. Toks kūrinys gali būti laikomas tikru meno kūriniu. Šiais laikais meno kūrinys yra istorijos ir kultūros dalis. Svarbu jam turėti išorinę ir vidinę formą. Išorinė būna susijusi su reikšme - gamtos ir žmogaus gyvenimo pokyčiais, o vidinė – su spalvų santykiais. Menininkas gal tik per formą įtvirtina harmoniją ir pusiausvyrą mene bei gyvenime. Mano kaip menininkės noras pateikti sustojusį laiką planetoje, kuris tarsi užhipnotizuoja savyje praeitu laiku. Mes atsiduriame kitoje planetoje, kitame laike, kitokio kraštovaizdžio mieste. Susiduriame su ženklais, kurie yra tarsi tos planetos kodai. Mes klajojame…žvilgsniu, mintimis, ieškome atsakymo, bet tai liks mums tik didžiulė paslaptis Tikiuosi, kad mano kolekcija jus nunešė, į mikro ir makro planetą... / In fact, the art has made undeniable positive impact on human development, and it is one of the most important positions in my life. After all, the man is the creator and artist, and the constructor, and the master, and the worker. In my view, the creation of something important first demands the idea and then the implementation. As others say, a good start for half the work. Whether displaying a small or large object, it is important that it tells what you want to tell. Each exhibit must reveal certain information to the spectator. Such creation can be a real piece of art. Nowadays a piece of art is a part of history and culture. It must have outward and inward form. Outside is related to the value - with the nature and evolution of human life, and the inner - the relationship of colors. The artist can only through form establish the harmony and a balance between art and life. My desire as an artist is to express stopped time of the planet, which hypnotize in itself in the past. We appear on another planet in other time with different city landscape. We face signs of that planet as if codes. We stroll around sighting, thinking, looking for the answer, but everything remains a black secret for us.I hope that my collection will take you to the micro and macro planet...

The existing literature on philanthropic effort during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries has taken a number of different approaches to the subject. These include general works charting the development of the charitable sector, the exploration of voluntary organisations as a subsidiary topic to broader themes and regional studies adopting a range of perspectives. Most research in this latter category has been conducted on large towns and cities that generally have copious amounts of source material. In contrast, lesser provincial towns have received relatively little scholarly attention, despite the more manageable nature of their documentation. The aim of this thesis is to explore the growth of charitable organisations within Macclesfield, an East Cheshire industrial town that was dominated by the silk industry. This study concentrates on the period from 1750 to 1900, when the silk industry was dominant within the town and philanthropic activity was at its height. The town?s silk manufacturers were renowned for their charitable work and thus this research focuses on the extent to which this occupational group was critical in the development of Macclesfield?s voluntary institutions, the motives that lay behind their contributions, and their achievements. In order to see whether their involvement was typical of other businessmen, comparisons are drawn throughout with the charitable activities of contemporary entrepreneurs in a variety of urban settings.This study investigates the silk manufacturers? participation in Macclesfield?s voluntary institutions in the fields of religion, education, public services and public amenities, together with any additional charitable acts. The evidence from all these areas suggests that in most cases the silk manufacturers were heavily involved in funding and managing these institutions. Their obvious motives reflected altruistic, religious and educational beliefs, but there were also a variety of other concerns that could have been contributory in determining their support for particular institutions. The primary achievement of Macclesfield?s voluntary sector was to provide a network of services that, in conjunction with later state initiatives, improved living standards for inhabitants by the end of the nineteenth century.This thesis gives an insight into the development of charitable institutions in a medium sized industrial town and demonstrates how one group of businessmen were able to dominate this field. Many silk manufacturers were generous in their support of charitable causes in Macclesfield, but the scale of their support did not match that of some other notable philanthropic families, such as the Crossleys of Halifax. The charitable work of the silk manufacturers appeared to be broadly similar to that of entrepreneurs in other small and medium sized industrial towns where they could form a dominant occupational group in public life. In larger towns and cities, this strong manufacturer influence was less evident and a greater range of other people contributed significantly to philanthropic institutions. This type of approach supplements the existing material on philanthropic effort during the long nineteenth century and overlaps a number of related subject areas, such as urban ?lite activity and the growth of the welfare state.

In nature, organisms have long been able to create elaborate mineral structures at ambient temperatures. From a materials science and engineering perspective, favorable properties emerge when the synthesis process can be controlled at finer levels. New strategies in materials chemistry synthesis has been inspired by biomineralization: biomimetics. In this work, silk fibroin films were used to synthesize gold nanoparticles room temperature by soaking a free standing 15nm silk film in HAuCl4. Particles ranged in size and shape from 5nm spheres to 105nm hexagons. Secondly, a film of ZnO1 peptide (ZnO selectively binding peptide) was successfully formed by drop casting on both silk and polystyrene surfaces. Using a HMT + Zn(NO3)2 system for ZnO wet chemical deposition, rods were formed on the peptide surface. Changing solution concentration and growth time affected the density and size of the nanorods. Spin coating a 3nm peptide film reduced the roughness to <1nm, upon which an array of vertical ZnO rods with controllable density was synthesized.