Background Until today, branding in positive forms has been widely researched. It has been studied why consumers choose certain brands and how companies can increase brand loyalty. On the other hand, literature lacks studies on negative branding, which now becomes more interesting to gain more knowledge about. One knows that it is of equal importance to investigate why people would avoid a brand as what makes them purchase a brand. Hence, the topic of anti-consumption and in particular brand avoidance is something that demands more research. Purpose In 2016 Knittel, Beurer and Berndt conducted a research on brand avoidance on products and came to the conclusion that advertising is an additional factor affecting brand avoidance. However, brand avoidance has not yet been researched on a specific industry. Today’s sports industry spends a tremendous amount of money on advertising, thus it is of great interest to investigate how advertising can have a negative effect on the sports companies. Therefore, the purpose of this thesis is to investigate and gain deeper understanding of what components of advertising affect brand avoidance within the sportswear industry.   Method This thesis was best researched by an exploratory study using a qualitative and abductive approach. Interviews and focus groups have been used as data collection methods. The interviews were held with different companies within the sportswear industry and provided data to create focus groups from as well as first visions on crucial components within advertising. The focus groups provided further understanding on which components that could contribute to brand avoidance due to advertising from a consumer’s perspective.   Conclusion Findings of this thesis show that several components of advertising can lead to brand avoidance within the sportswear industry. The authors conclude the thesis by presenting an extended and revised model of advertising components of brand avoidance, whereas the advertising category is renamed to marketing communication. In total, eight components were identified: content, collaborations, music, channel, trustworthiness, frequency, timing, and response. The revised framework provides new information within brand avoidance for both academics and marketing managers within the sportswear industry.

Our everyday life is becoming more active and the activities we perform influence the way we dress. Due to an increase in activities undertaken in an urban environment, demands are changing and the need for active wear that meets the new demands follow suit. The four characters represented in the research can be seen as a reflection of the functional features needed, including base layer, mid layer/insulation and shell.Despite the increase in activities, most of our clothes are still constructed on static dummies or drafted on a table in 2D and the main developments within the active sportswear field is driven by material innovation. By creating garments on a body in movement, my aim is to develop new functions and expression in active sportswear through construction.Construction methods in active sportswear are examined and understood through observations and reconstructions and constitute the foundation of a study of movement for a design recovery.The movement and features required for leading an active urban life sets the direction of the development of new func- tional garments. A series of trial and error sessions and draping fabric on a live model in movement created the prototypes used in functionality tests to establish their feasibility. The functionality of the fabric and the form needed in urban lifestyle is explored in terms of relationship to a reduced, intuitive construction to challenge the norm of aesthetics in active sportswear. Meeting the demands of the conscious urban inhabitants regarding sustainability and style challenges this further. / Program: Modedesignutbildningen

Natural Dye, Chemical, Trail running, Sportswear, Sustainable, Pigments, Chromatic, Toxins, Print, Dye, Dirt.Sammanfattning på engelska: This work explores natural dye’s ability to be used for trail running wear. The sustainable aspects in the clothing industry includes the production of nontoxic textiles that do not pollute in the production process nor when using the textile close to our bodies. Natural dyes usually have low toxicity and are produced from renewable resources. The explorative nature of trail running is used as a guideline and an entrance exam for the dyed fabrics to prove wash- and lightfastness durable for the sport. The idea of colouring clothes directly with nature is present in dirt prints printed with natural pigments. Organic printing with rust and vegetable oil is explored as an alternative to screen printing. The movements and comfort of running outdoors is understood by body indicated experiments as a method. Pattern construction is made from movement and sensation by exposing the body to friction, dirt and cold air. The results of these experiments were together with reshaping existing run wear the construction method. This work suggests viewing colour as nonstatic and with more dimensions such as locality and smell. By using slow dye processes and locally accessible dye materials unique expressions from natural dyes, prints and patinations can enhance sportswear in the appearance, health and environmental aspect. / Program: Modedesignutbildningen

This thesis deals with cross-country ski clothing for non-competitive women. Women in this category look for different clothing features in comfort and aesthetics than male top athletes, for whom cross-country skiwear today often seems to be designed. In this thesis the demands of these women have been mapped out by an interview with a reference group of users. The ergonomics of exercising in the winter outdoors are naturally a base for the collection. The collection consists of three functional layers of garments. Each layer has its own purpose and its specific style that reflects its function for the user. Knit materials are developed for thermal underwear and an insulating middle layer. The protecting outer garments were tested in real outdoor conditions. The spirit of the collection can be summarized as to mature femininity. The collection allows each skier to enjoy skiing as she best feels. The aim is to inspire more beautiful women to dust off their skis and enjoy nature. / <p>Program: Konstnärligt masterprogram i mode- och textildesign</p><p>Uppsatsnivå: D</p>

Digital innovations are about to overtake the supply chain systems and revolutionize the way of producing products. With the use of technology in the value chain a sustainable development can be generated and developed. The usage of digital tools for manufacturing can minimize waste and further develop sustained processing. 3D printing is a technology that produces products by adding layer by layer of material. The additive manufacturing process theoretically produces no waste and aims for a sustainable and efficient processing. The textile and sportswear industry adopted this process for high fashion or functional performance products. Especially in the sportswear sector the process shows great potential. Brands like Adidas, Nike and Underarmour adopted the process in order to create midsoles for performance shoes. This research aims to identify the potential of 3D printing for the textile and sportswear industry. The purpose of this research is to explore the advantages and disadvantages of 3D printing within the textile industry and sportswear value chain, to survey where are potential solutions to reduce waste. The qualitative research consists of a theoretical and empirical part. The study begins with a systematic literature review that presents the state of the art of 3D printing in the textile and sportswear industry. In order to add empirical data, interviews with five experts from academia and industry have been conducted. The experts work with 3D printing and three of them with 3D printing and textiles. The case study methodology was chosen in order to compare a small number of cases and their approaches. In order to answer the research questions, the empirical data was thematically analyzed and one overarching theme and seven sub themes emerged. The sub themes were compared to the effects and challenges of 3D printing for the textile and sportswear value chain that emerged from the literature review. The findings show that there are several advantages as design freedom and customization and disadvantages as slow production speed and costs. 3D printing is mostly used as an additional process when implementing the process in the textile and sportswear value chain.

Orientador: Carmen Lúcia Soares / Dissertação (mestrado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Faculdade de Educação Física / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-19T07:45:12Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Cunha_LucianaBicalhoda_M.pdf: 3512117 bytes, checksum: dfc095cfa2881f61f675887ac723fe4d (MD5) Previous issue date: 2011 / Resumo: Esta dissertação teve por objetivo compreender e analisar a configuração da moda esportiva na cidade de Belo Horizonte, indiciando traços de uma educação do corpo a ela associada. Buscamos também identificar as idéias de corpo, vestuário e comportamento circulantes na capital, procurando reconhecer interlocutores, projetos e instituições envolvidas nessas prescrições de moda. Para tanto, definimos como fontes documentos que circularam na cidade no período de 1929 a 1950, tais como revistas, livros de memória e documentos iconográficos. O desenvolvimento desta pesquisa nos permitiu perceber a importância da moda esportiva na reconfiguração dos corpos e nos comportamentos na cidade de Belo Horizonte. A nova cultura urbana, baseada na modernização de hábitos e de costumes da população, propõe um novo modelo corporal no qual se configuram novos padrões vestimentares. As roupas destinadas às práticas corporais vão se tornando uma necessidade ao longo do tempo e vão, lentamente, desenhando novas formas do parecer, exibindo partes do corpo antes escondidas e modelando os contornos do novo corpo enrijecido pelo esporte. Para fazer circular todas essas concepções de roupa e corpo, as revistas foram acionadas a divulgar imagens modelos por meio das seções de moda e de publicidade e das fotografias de eventos esportivos. Dessa maneira, as roupas esportivas, em sua materialidade, sentidos e funções, participaram efetivamente de uma revolução das aparências e dos comportamentos na capital mineira / Abstract: This thesis aimed to comprehend and analyze the configuration of sportswear in the city of Belo Horizonte, indicating traces of an education of the body associated to it. We also tried to identify ideas of the body, clothing and behavior that circulated throughout that capital seeking to recognize interlocutors, projects and institutions involved in those prescriptions of fashion. For that, we defined as sources, documents that circulated throughout the city from 1929 and 1950, such as magazines, memoirs and iconographic documents. The development of this research allowed us to realize the importance of sportswear for the reconfiguration of bodies and behaviors in Belo Horizonte. The new urban culture, based on the modernization of habits and customs of the population, proposes a new model of body which configures new dressing patterns. The clothes destined to body practices become a necessity along the time slowly drawing new ways of ?appearing to be?, exhibiting parts of the body that were once hidden and modeling the outline of the new body, stiffed by sports. In order to make all those conceptions of clothing and body circulate, the magazines were driven to publicize images through the sections of fashion, publicity and photographs of sporting events. Thus, sportswear, in its materiality, meanings and purposes, effectively took place in a revolution of the appearances and behaviors of the capital of the State of Minas Gerais / Mestrado / Educação Fisica e Sociedade / Mestre em Educação Física

Sportswear is growing into a fashion trend due to consumers growing desire for a healthy lifestyle. Some years back functional sportswear companies sold their clothing mostly via retailers, in recent years however these companies have integrated downstream in the supply chain. Now most functional sportswear brands operate their own stores: flagship or brand stores. Many researchers have investigated how companies use integration in the supply chainas a strategy. Few of these researchers have solely looked into functional sportswear companies and their unique products. The purpose of this thesis is therefore to examine why functional sportswear brands operate brand stores. In this paper several researchers suggested reasons to why companies integrate downstream in the supply chain, which has been taken into account. Researchers such as Penaloza (1998), Pine and Gilmor (1998) and Thomas et. al (1999) have suggested that brand image, a relationship with the consumer and the chance of giving the consumer an experience are important advantages that comes with a brand store. Researchers have also discussed how the brand store generates sales through other channels. These advantages of brand stores as well as reasons for downstream integration have been used to critically examine why functional sportswear brands operate brand stores. The study shows that all examined sportswear brands use the brand store as a way of building image. The companies all find the chance of giving the consumer an experience as an important aspect of the brand store.

This work is an investigation of how to redefine the perception of decoration. Decorative elements are reinvented as fundamental tools for creating garments and form in a collection of nine outfits. To show the width of what embellishment is able to create, the decorative techniques of all garments are different. The work also deals with the question of taste when it comes to embellishment. By using decorations seen as tasteless the work revaluates notions of good and bad taste. Materials as sport fabric combined with embellishment trick the eye and all small decorations together form new materials. New ways to use embellishments are explored, and the time consuming techniques are reminiscent of haute couture techniques, but in the designer’s own way.

Nuestro plan de negocio es el desarrollo de una propuesta de co–branding entre una marca deportiva y una universidad para desarrollar una línea de sports fashion que integre ambas marcas. Como oportunidad, apreciamos una tendencia creciente en el uso de ropa deportiva urbana, y la posibilidad de fortalecer la relación entre una universidad con sus alumnos y egresados a través de un vínculo emocional que usa, como herramienta, el deporte. La propuesta incluye un co-branding ​entre una marca deportiva establecida, que ya cuente con un fuerte vínculo emocional con sus clientes, y una universidad peruana con un sólido programa deportivo y cuya población estudiantil sea de, al menos, 50,000 alumnos. Esta propuesta ha sido validada con el mercado a través de un sondeo a nuestro público objetivo y consideramos que tiene viabilidad económica ya que cuenta con un TIR de 35% y un VAN positivo de S/ 2,348,148 considerando el costo de oportunidad del 15%. / We want to develop a business plan with a co-branding allegiance between a sports brand and a university in Peru while developing a “sports fashion” line on campus. We have noticed an elevated use of urban sporting goods worldwide, as well as seen a great opportunity to strengthen the relationship and build an emotional tie between the chosen university, its students, and graduates. We propose a co-branding between a renowned sports brand in Peru that already has a strong emotional attachment with its clients, as well as a Peruvian university with a solid sports program and at least 50,000 students. This proposal was validated in the market while probing our primary target audience; the university’s student body. / Tesis

Kinesio taping constructions are translated into garment construction in order to explore different principles for integrating kinesio taping devices and applying them to function and well-being in an everyday sports context. The significance of this project lies in developing sportswear that integrates similar functions to a Kinesio Tape. Recurring physical ailments are addressed with garments to improve flexibility between the health problem and kinesiology taping functions. A series of design experiments integrating elastic tapes and involving test subjects led to new perspectives in the field. Within the process, different principles were tested that mimic the function of a Kinesio Tape. The developed prototypes were fitted to specific test subjects and then tested with the help of a user test during an activity. The process showed that the subject area still leaves much room for further research. Specifying the field of application more is one possibility.