O setor têxtil, no desenvolvimento das atividades produtivas, causa impactos à saúde ambiental, não existindo indicadores específicos para mensurá-los. Todavia, a Agenda 21, o Pacto Global, a série ISO 14000 e a legislação pertinente mencionam a importância dos indicadores de desenvolvimento sustentável para atividades econômicas. Em virtude dessa proposição, objetivou-se construir, em bases participativas, um rol de indicadores de desenvolvimento sustentável, nas dimensões econômica, social e ambiental, para auxiliar o conhecimento da situação do setor têxtil quanto a esse ponto, limitado ao estado de São Paulo. O método Delphi foi utilizado para a construção dos indicadores com participação de 45 representantes das partes interessadas. Iniciou-se a pesquisa com 30 indicadores do Perform - Sustainability Performance Benchmarking. Após o pré-teste e três rodadas do questionário, foi definido um conjunto de 92 indicadores (13 econômicos, 23 sociais e 56 ambientais). Realizou-se a reunião de validação dos indicadores com 15 representantes das partes interessadas, os quais aprovaram uma lista de 26 indicadores (9 econômicos, 12 sociais e 5 ambientais). Por meio do Discurso do Sujeito Coletivo identificou-se o interesse de gestores do setor em incorporar tais indicadores no rol de indicadores usados pelo setor. Os gestores do sindicato veem os indicadores de desenvolvimento sustentável como elementos importantes para o setor, mas apenas com aplicação futura. Entretanto, existe a possibilidade de efetivação de um projeto piloto com o uso desses indicadores na região de Americana e a divulgação para o setor por intermédio da Câmara Ambiental Têxtil da CETESB. / The textile sector, in its productive activities, causes impacts to the environmental health, and there is a lack of specific indicators to measure them, besides the importance of these indicators mentioned by Agenda 21, the Global Compact, ISO 14000 and the legislation. Due to this proposition, a construction of a sustainable development indicators list, based on participative basis, was developed covering the environmental, social and economic dimensions to help getting to know the textile sector situation, limited to the state of São Paulo. The method Delphi was used to build the indicators with the participation of 45 stakeholder representatives. The survey began with 30 indicators from Perform Sustainability Performance Benchmarking. After the pre-testing, and three round panels, 92 indicators were chosen (13 economic, 23 social and 56 environmental indicators). There was a meeting to validate the indicators with 15 stakeholders who approved 26 indicators (9 economic, 12 socials and 5 environmental indicators). The interest of sectors management to incorporate these indicators was identified through The Collective Subject Discourse methodology. The São Paulo Textile Industry Association managers see the sustainable development indicators as important elements for the sector, but only for future application. There is a possibility to implement a pilot project using these indicators in the region of Americana, and divulge to the sector through the Environmental Textile Chamber from Cetesb.

En el presente documento se presentará el proyecto de ropa con tecnología de cierre magnético para personas con alguna discapacidad (18+) y para personas de la tercera edad (65+), cuyo estudio de mercado se realizó en la zona urbana de Lima Metropolitana. Dicho estudio arrojó una demanda insatisfecha debido a la falta de tiendas virtuales de prendas de vestir que brinden atención exclusiva a este segmento. Por eso, nació la idea de negocio “Easy Fit”, una marca de ropa que tiene como fin brindar grandes beneficios, tales como autonomía y comodidad que permite a los clientes vestirse de manera rápida. Asimismo, se puede adaptar las prendas según lo que requiera el usuario. Para poner en marcha este proyecto se realizó un análisis de los clientes, mercado y sector. Posteriormente, se desarrolló el Plan Estratégico, Plan de Operaciones, Plan de Marketing, Plan de Recursos Humanos, Plan de Responsabilidad Social Empresarial y el Plan Financiero. En los cuales se especifican los objetivos y estrategias que se deseas lograr en los primeros tres años. / This document will present the project of clothing with magnetic closure technology for people with some disabilities (18+) and for people seniors (65+), whose market study was carried out in the urban area of Lima Metropolitana. This study yielded unmet demand due to the lack of virtual clothing stores that provide exclusive attention to this segment. That's why the "Easy Fit" business idea was born, a clothing brand that aims to deliver great benefits, such as autonomy and comfort that allows customers to dress quickly. You can also adapt the garments according to what the user requires. In order to launch this project, an analysis of costumers, market and sector was done previously. In addition, a Strategic Plan, an Operations Plan, a Marketing Plan, a Human Resources Plan, a Corporate Social Responsibility Plan and a Financial Plan were also developed, in which the objectives and strategies to be achieved in the first three years are specified. / Trabajo de investigación

El Perú es considerado como el mayor productor de algodón en las regiones de la costa y selva, donde se cultivan dos tipos variedades representativas como es el algodón Pima y Tangüis. No solo Perú es productor, sino también exportador de una de las más importantes partidas arancelarias dentro del sector textil, los t-shirts de algodón, el cual ha se ha visto afectado desfavorablemente durante los años 2009 al 2015. Por lo cual, se elaboró la presente investigación que tiene como fin determinar cómo se presentó la disminución de las exportaciones de t-shirts de algodón peruano al mercado de Estados Unidos. En primer lugar, se realizó una descripción de la cultura exportadora, la defensa comercial y los obstáculos técnicos del comercio de las exportaciones de t-shirts de algodón. Estas se identificaron dentro del periodo de tiempo analizado del 2009 hasta el 2015 que en ese tiempo determinado se tuvo un mayor panorama de la situación que estaba pasando el sector textil. En segundo lugar, para contar con una obtención de los resultados efectiva, se utilizó el diseño metodológico no experimental, donde se elaboró un cuestionario a los expertos de la materia y encuestas a las empresas exportadoras que representaban mayor porcentaje en el sector. Finalmente, se tiene como resultado frente a los factores predominantes en las exportaciones que han tenido un impacto negativamente en las exportaciones peruanas de t-shirts de algodón en las empresas textileras nacionales, a raíz de la fuerte competencia internacional, la cultura exportadora, la defensa comercial y los obstáculos técnicos al comercio. / Peru is considered as the largest cotton producer in the coastal and jungle regions, where two representative varieties such as Pima and Tangüis cotton are grown. Not only Peru is a producer, but also an exporter of one of the tariff items within the textile sector, cotton t-shirts, which has been adversely affected during the years 2009 to 2015. Therefore, the present one was elaborated on research that aims to determine what were the main causes that predominated in the decline of exports of Peruvian cotton t-shirts to the United States market. First, each of the causes that were representative of the low exports of cotton t-shirts was analyzed, such as export culture, trade defense and technical barriers to trade. These were identified within the period analyzed from 2009 to 2015 that at that given time there was a greater panorama of the situation that the textile sector was going through. Secondly, to obtain the results, the non-experimental methodological design was used, where a questionnaire was designed for the subject matter experts and surveys of exporting companies that represented a higher percentage in the sector. Finally, it results in the predominant factors of exports that have harmed on Peruvian exports of cotton t-shirts in national textile companies, due to strong international competition, export culture, defense commercial and technical obstacles to trade. / Tesis

Las exportaciones del sector textil han evidenciado un crecimiento desde el año 2016, siendo un 17% mayor entre el periodo de 2016 a 2018. Se explica que el alza se debe a la evolución de la industria, favoreciendo al desarrollo de las marcas. El objetivo de incrementar la productividad empresarial del sector debe estar impulsado por el desarrollo de tecnologías de la información, es importante que las empresas consideren las tecnologías digitales como una oportunidad para la transformación hacia un país competitivo. Además, los beneficios potenciales de su implementación pueden ser mayores para las mypes, al reducir barreras para la internacionalización. En términos de búsqueda de oportunidades de internacionalización, la vitrina más importante en el país para la exposición de los mejores productos de la industria peruana textil al mundo es la feria internacional “Perú Moda”. En ese sentido, el objetivo principal de la investigación es determinar la relación entre el uso de las tecnologías digitales y el desarrollo de las exportaciones de las mypes del sector textil participantes de “Perú Moda”, en el periodo 2016 al 2018. Se utilizó una metodología mixta y un diseño descriptivo correlacional. Para la fase cualitativa se aplicaron entrevistas a expertos y para la fase cuantitativa se realizaron encuestas a 18 mypes exportadoras del sector, participantes en la feria mencionada. Se concluyó que sí existe una relación positiva entre las variables mencionadas. Adicionalmente, se pudo establecer las relaciones entre sus dimensiones, de esa manera se obtuvo un mayor alcance sobre el fenómeno estudiado. / Exports from the textile sector have shown growth since 2016, being 17% higher between the period from 2016 to 2018. It is explained that the increase is due to the evolution of the industry, favoring the development of brands. The objective of increasing business productivity in the sector must be driven by the development of information technologies, it is important that companies consider digital technologies as an opportunity for transformation towards a competitive country. In addition, the potential benefits of its implementation may be greater for SME’s, by reducing barriers to internationalization. In terms of searching for internationalization opportunities, the most important showcase in the country for exposing the best products of the Peruvian textile industry to the world is the international fair "Peru Moda". In this sense, the main objective of the research is to determine the relationship between the use of digital technologies and the development of exports of the SME’s of the textile sector participating in "Peru Moda", in the period 2016 to 2018. A mixed methodology and a descriptive correlational design were used. For the qualitative phase, interviews with experts were applied and for the quantitative phase, surveys were conducted with 18 exporting SME’s of the sector, participants in the aforementioned fair. It was concluded that there is a positive relationship between the mentioned variables. Additionally, it was possible to establish the relationships between its dimensions, thus obtaining a greater scope on the phenomenon studied. / Tesis

Nuestro plan de negocio es el desarrollo de una propuesta de co–branding entre una marca deportiva y una universidad para desarrollar una línea de sports fashion que integre ambas marcas. Como oportunidad, apreciamos una tendencia creciente en el uso de ropa deportiva urbana, y la posibilidad de fortalecer la relación entre una universidad con sus alumnos y egresados a través de un vínculo emocional que usa, como herramienta, el deporte. La propuesta incluye un co-branding ​entre una marca deportiva establecida, que ya cuente con un fuerte vínculo emocional con sus clientes, y una universidad peruana con un sólido programa deportivo y cuya población estudiantil sea de, al menos, 50,000 alumnos. Esta propuesta ha sido validada con el mercado a través de un sondeo a nuestro público objetivo y consideramos que tiene viabilidad económica ya que cuenta con un TIR de 35% y un VAN positivo de S/ 2,348,148 considerando el costo de oportunidad del 15%. / We want to develop a business plan with a co-branding allegiance between a sports brand and a university in Peru while developing a “sports fashion” line on campus. We have noticed an elevated use of urban sporting goods worldwide, as well as seen a great opportunity to strengthen the relationship and build an emotional tie between the chosen university, its students, and graduates. We propose a co-branding between a renowned sports brand in Peru that already has a strong emotional attachment with its clients, as well as a Peruvian university with a solid sports program and at least 50,000 students. This proposal was validated in the market while probing our primary target audience; the university’s student body. / Tesis

El presente trabajo de investigación tiene como finalidad analizar el impacto que tiene el sistema de costos por procesos en la rentabilidad de las micro y pequeñas empresas que se dedican a fabricar prendas de vestir en el Emporio Comercial de Gamarra. Nos enfocamos en las MYPES debido a que es el principal porcentaje de participación del Emporio Comercial de Gamarra, este último es el mercado tradicional más importante y de gran movimiento económico relacionado a la industria textil. Asimismo, este sector es uno de los más relevantes debido a que contribuye con el crecimiento productivo del país mediante el uso de materias primas de origen nacional. Se desarrolló esta investigación con el propósito de ayudar a los microempresarios a tomar decisiones acertadas para que puedan mejorar su productividad y competitividad. Mediante las entrevistas, encuestas y el caso práctico que hemos desarrollado se pretende demostrar el impacto positivo en la rentabilidad de los negocios que utilizan un sistema de costos por procesos. / The purpose of this research work is to analyze the impact that the cost-per-process system has on the profitability of micro and small businesses that are dedicated to manufacturing clothing in the Commercial Emporium of Gamarra. We focus on the MYPES because it is the main percentage of participation of the Commercial Emporium of Gamarra, the latter is the most important traditional market and of great economic movement related to the textile industry. Likewise, this sector is one of the most relevant because it contributes to the productive growth of the country through the use of raw materials of national origin. This research was developed with the purpose of helping microentrepreneurs to make sound decisions so that they can improve their productivity and competitiveness. Through interviews, surveys and the case study that we have developed, it is intended to demonstrate the positive impact on the profitability of businesses that use a process cost system. / Tesis

El objetivo de la presente investigación es determinar el impacto del control interno de inventarios basado en el modelo COSO ERM y elaborar procedimientos para mejorar la rentabilidad de las Empresas Mypes de Fabricación de Telas de Tejido Punto en el Emporio Comercial de Gamarra, año 2018. Las MYPES son un elemento importante en la economía nacional ya que representan el 99% de empresas en el país y el 93.5% de MYPES del sector textil-confecciones se concentra en Gamarra, en donde el 27.7% se dedica a la fabricación de productos textiles. Esta industria representa una parte importante de la producción manufacturera al llegar a 8.9% del PBI. Asimismo, existen factores que limitan su desarrollo empresarial como la falta de financiamiento, falta de apoyo gubernamental, problemas de infraestructura en el almacén y el escaso conocimiento sobre el control interno de sus inventarios, lo que ha generado que se vean seriamente afectadas tras el incremento de la competencia de productos importados en el sector textil en los últimos años. El enfoque del estudio es mixto, iniciamos con entrevistas a los dueños empresarios conocedores del desarrollo del negocio con el fin de validar los principales factores. Luego se realizó encuestas a 30 MYPES del sector Textil de tejido punto que operan dentro de Gamarra. Los resultados obtenidos concluyen que los factores que intervienen en la decisión de incorporar un adecuado control interno de inventarios basado en el modelo COSO ERM influyen significativamente en la rentabilidad de las empresas textiles de tejido punto en Gamarra, y que su aplicación adecuada les permitirá destacar en el buen manejo de sus inventarios. / The objective of this research is to determine the Internal Inventory Control based on the COSO ERM model and develop procedures to improve the profitability of the MYPES Knitted fabric manufacturing companies at the Gamarra Commercial Emporium, year 2018. MYPEs are an important element in the national economy as they represent 99% of the companies on the country, and 93.5% of the textile-clothing MYPEs are concentrated on the Gamarra area, there 27.7% are dedicated to textile products manufacturing. This industry represents an important part of the manufacturing production, reaching up to 8.9% of the GDP. There area also factors that limit their business development, such as a lack of financing, lack of government support, infrastructure problems on their warehouses and their poor knowledge of the internal inventory control, all of which have caused them to be seriously affected after the increased competition of imported textile products on the sector in recent years. The study focus was mixed, we began with interviews of businesses owners who know about their business development in order to validate the main factors. Then, 30 MYPEs surveys, of the knitted textile sector operating within Gamarra, were carried out. The obtained results bring us to the conclusion that the related factors to the decision to incorporate an adequate internal inventory control based on the COSO ERM model significantly influence the profitability of the textile knitting companies in Gamarra, and its proper application will allow them to stand out in the good management of their inventories. / Tesis

<p>This thesis develops a computable, non-linear programming, general equilibrium model of the Canadian textile sector for the purpose of addressing certain trade policy issues.</p> <p>One of the unique features of the model is the specification of the objective function a CES nested in a Cobb-Douglas function. This objective function incorporates the assumption of diminishing marginal utility', an assumption which is almost universally accepted in microeconomic theory but which is conspicuously missing in linear programming models. This objective function also allows for imperfect substitutability between domestically produced textiles and imported textiles.</p> <p>The textile sector is significantly disaggregated to allow for the interconnections among the various textile industries in the sector. In addition, unlike partial equilibrium models which do not consider what happens to other industries outside the sector under study, this model is able to shed same light on the behaviour of these industries.</p> <p>The model is solved by an optimization package called MINOS (a modular in-core nonlinear optimization system) and then used to predict the 1979 variables to set a benchmark for the model. The model predicts most variables reasonably well.</p> <p>The results of the experiments confirm Bhagwati's concept of equivalence as applied to general equilibrium models. The results also show that if protection in textiles is removed, imports will pour in, leading to declines in output and employment in the textile industries. The finding that there is considerable anti-protection in the textile sector agrees with the view expressed by other writers. The results also show that, in general, a textile industry at a later stage of processing tends to expand if it is the only one protected and an industry at an early stage of processing tends to contact if it is the only one protected.</p> <p>Given any quota, its tariff equivalent can be computed using the model. With reference to tariffs and subsidies, the results show that one cannot say categorically that one means of protection is generally preferable to the other, a finding which is consistent with the trade distortions literature.</p> / Doctor of Philosophy (PhD)

The new international division of labour has transformed the economic structure of Turkey from an import-substituted to an export-oriented economy. Starting from the early 90s, many Moldovan migrants began to come to Turkey in order to work temporarily in the informal economy. They worked in clothing and shoe ateliers until the beginning of this century. Nowadays many Moldovan migrants work in clothing shops as Russian-speaking sales assistants and in the cargo firms as carriers. Based on this historical context, this study explores the changing labour market position and workplace interactions of irregular Moldovan migrants, who are working in the textile/clothing sector in Istanbul, Turkey. I firstly try to understand the mechanisms of the changing labour market positions of irregular migrants by focusing on the factors and agents behind these dynamic processes. Secondly, I intend to analyze the labour process control regimes and resistance in the workplaces where migrants work. With this aim in view, I conducted field research in Istanbul consisting of 35 in depth and informal interviews with Moldovan migrants, Turkish employers and Turkish employees. As a result of the analyses of my findings, I first observed that although foreign workers cannot change the exploitative working conditions, they can find ways of escaping from exploitative working conditions in a context. Secondly, the level of exploitation in informal working conditions are not only determined by the necessities of capitalist accumulation regimes and the migration policies of the state but also by the preferences of employers based on economic and cultural motives but also.

Submitted by Nadir Basilio (nadirsb@uninove.br) on 2016-07-01T14:33:11Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Paulo Cesar Da Silva.pdf: 893319 bytes, checksum: fb528f3e46f72bbd93fd77b70239bc37 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2016-07-01T14:33:11Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Paulo Cesar Da Silva.pdf: 893319 bytes, checksum: fb528f3e46f72bbd93fd77b70239bc37 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2016-02-29 / The textile industry is known as one of the main polluting industries to the environment due to its complex sectored operations diversified in production chain processes and types of pollutants. The growing concern about negative environmental impacts and business sustainability, has led companies to adopt environmental tools and strategies, such as Cleaner Production. Analogous to this some initiatives of implementing Cleaner Production in the textile industry have been made in spinning, weaving, finishing, printing and apparel sectors, focusing on reducing waste, pollution, emissions and process modifications according to literature. This research objective is to assess whether the implementation of Cleaner Production by Brazilian textile companies has a positive or negative effect in the economic, environmental and operational performances. Specifically aims to identify which Cleaner Production practices are most or least used by Brazilian textile industry. The method adopted to reach this objective will be a survey in companies of Brazilian textile sector. The results demonstrated overall positive impact of CP practices for all three performances in the following relevance order: operational, environmental and economic performance. The proposed model was able to identify the most relevant CP practices, which have higher coefficient values for the constructs related to the operational and environmental performance. The less relevant practices, contributed to lower coefficient value for the construct of economic performance due to the fact that investments in clean technologies for energy efficiency, selection of suppliers and improvement of working conditions require high investments with a long time return. The main contribution of this research consist in developing a relation model of constructs, CP practices, operational, environmental and economic performance, that can measure the contributions of the respective constructs for companies inside and outside the textile sector. / A Indústria têxtil é reconhecida como uma das principais operações poluidoras do ambiente devido sua complexa cadeia produtiva, setorialmente diversificada em processos e tipos de poluentes. A crescente preocupação com impactos negativos gerados ao meio ambiente e a sustentabilidade dos negócios tem levado as empresas a adoção de ferramentas e estratégias ambientais, tais como a Produção mais limpa (P+L). Análogo a isto, algumas iniciativas de P+L na indústria têxtil têm sido realizadas nos setores de fiação, tecelagem, beneficiamento, estamparia e confecção, com foco em redução de resíduo, poluentes, emissões e modificações de processos. O objetivo dessa pesquisa é avaliar se a implantação de práticas de P+L pelas empresas no setor têxtil brasileiro tem efeito positivo ou negativo no desempenho econômico, desempenho ambiental e desempenho operacional. Em específico, visa identificar quais são as práticas da P+L mais e menos utilizadas pelas empresas brasileiras do setor têxtil. O método adotado para alcançar esse objetivo será survey em organizações do setor têxtil brasileiro. Os resultados demonstraram impacto global positivo das práticas de P+L nos três desempenhos avaliados, na seguinte ordem de relevância: desempenho operacional, ambiental e econômico. No modelo proposto foi possível identificar as práticas de P+L mais relevantes, que apresentaram valores de coeficiente de caminho maiores para os constructos relacionados ao desempenho operacional e ambiental. As práticas menos relevantes, contribuíram para coeficiente de caminho inferior para o constructo do desempenho econômico, devido ao fato de que investimentos em tecnologias limpas para uso eficiente de energia, seleção de fornecedores e melhoria de condições de trabalho necessitam altos investimentos com retorno a longo prazo. A principal contribuição desta pesquisa reside na elaboração do modelo das relações dos constructos, práticas de P+L, desempenhos operacional, ambiental e econômico que podem medir as contribuições dos respectivos constructos para empresas de dentro e fora da cadeia têxtil.