El estudio realizado en el presente trabajo de investigación consiste en la evaluación de la implementación de una planta productora de hilo de algodón nativo de color el cual es de origen peruano y se caracteriza por tener variados colores como crema, marrón, verde, pardo, fifo, lila, blanco y beige y a su vez este algodón fue usado en Caral la primera civilización de América y otras culturas prehispánicas en Perú; sin embargo, posee características como fibra corta y baja resistencia a la torsión lo cual hace que sea imposible ser hilado por maquinaria convencional; por ello, se utilizará una máquina especialmente adaptada la cual tiene un rango de parámetros de velocidad específicos para no romper el hilo al momento de procesarlo. Cabe recalcar que para facilitar el proceso de hilatura se mezclará el algodón nativo de color con algodón Tangüis con lo cual también reducirá el costo de producción; ya que, este es más barato que el algodón nativo. / Trabajo de investigación

The recycling rate of post-consumer apparel waste is low. This is compounded by our limited understanding of the fibre recovered from apparel waste and a lack of development in novel applications. Motivated by the growing rate of accumulation in unwanted clothing, this study focused on a number of integrated research themes aimed at understanding the nature of reclaimed cotton fibre, its use in paper-based materials and its utilisation in apparel related applications. Initially, the investigation characterised reclaimed cotton fibres from two different recovery machines (pinned air-layer and cutting mill). The results showed that neither process was capable of producing adequate fibre quality for fine yarn manufacture. The fibres exhibited extensive surface damage, length shortening and an increase in length distribution. After the initial characterisation, studies were undertaken to investigate the use of paper technology to increase the possibility of using reclaimed fibre in apparel. Strength is an important property in apparel related applications, therefore, the strength of reclaimed cotton-based paper was enhanced. The effects of a 4% sodium hydroxide pre-treatment on the beating performance and resultant sheet properties of reclaimed fibre pulp were investigated. At low beating levels, the results showed a significant 35% and 39% increase in tensile strength and energy absorption, respectively. With the treatment it is, therefore, possible to obtain a strong paper with high bulk, which can be further utilised to improve surface softness. Optimum dry and wet strength enhancement of the resultant paper was obtained with the combined addition of 1% carboxymethyl cellulose and 2% polyamideamine-epichlorhydrin. The development of wet strength was vital in order to facilitate uniform twist insertion in subsequent paper yarn manufacture. This study was one of the first to test the viability of using reclaimed cotton fibre in the production of paper yarns suitable for apparel manufacture. The wet-strengthened reclaimed-fibre paper was slit into 3 mm width ribbons, dampened, then twisted into yarns. The resultant yarns (46–193 tex) were uniform but lacked sufficient strength for use in weaving and knitting processes. Analysis of a commercial paper yarn, OJO+ , suggested that strength could be improved if fibre orientation was increased in the machine direction. A further application, in the form of a jacket, was trialled. The focus here was to test sewability using a variety of seam and stitch formations to sew together denim-derived cotton paper. A simple design using lap seams with straight stitching was established as the most effective construction. The final jacket satisfied industry requirements on seam strength and efficiency, however, further investigation into improving comfort and wear-ability will be essential.

Electrically conductive smart textiles are a very interesting area that could be important for the development of smart textiles. Today, conductive yarns and threads are often produced from coveted metals such as silver, copper and gold. These metals require large resources to be extracted and processed into yarns and threads and have a major impact on humans and the environment. One way to reduce the consumption of metals and save resources is to coat yarns of textile materials with electrically conductive polymers. In this study, we will investigate coating yarns with the conductive polymer blend PEDOT-PSS. PEDOT-PSS is extracted from oil, which is a non-renewable raw material, but coating with this polymer dispersion has many other advantages over metals and its production chain. Like coating yarn through a chemical bath produces very little waste, the yarn has a smaller mass, the yarn becomes more flexible, and it is easy to scale up production. However, previous studies have shown that there are some difficulties when it comes to coating yarns with PEDOT-PSS. The coating becomes fragile and brittle and to some extent affects the yarn that is coated in terms of mechanical properties. In this study, its investigated how the yarn is affected by various parameters in the production line, such as drying temperature, the viscosity of the PEDOT-PSS dispersion and the speed of the thread traveling through the production line, to find optimal production parameters that provide a balance between conductive and mechanical properties. We have produced a number of samples, all with different variations of parameters, and investigated how its conductive and mechanical properties are affected to see if there is a pattern and connection between parameters and conductive and mechanical properties on the yarn. The results show that yarn samples made with high viscosity of the PEDOT-PSS dispersion are among the lower range of resistance (with some exceptions), with average values of about 2990 O up to 10300 O, while lower viscosity shows uneven results with average values of about 92,000 O and all the way up to about 6,500,000 O. Most samples with lower measured O values are made with a high drying temperature, but no clear connection could be detected between temperature and end result, nor did the different speeds show any clear connection to the result. For the mechanical properties, it turns out that there is a relationship between result and viscosity as well as result and drying temperature. Samples made with low viscosity and low drying temperature perform best in the mechanical tests, 59.7% to 52.9% elongation and 25 cN / tex to 21 cN / tex. While speeds in this category could not show any connection between the results either. Overall, the results can be summarized as the results of tests show that there are some correlations between the parameters and the properties of the yarn samples and that the viscosity of the PEDOT-PSS dispersion and drying temperature are the most influential parameters. For conductive properties, viscosity has the greatest effect and for mechanical properties, viscosity and temperature have the greatest effect. For conductive properties, high viscosity is good, and for mechanical properties, low temperature and low viscosity are best. The sample with the best combination of test results was tested in a knitting machine but the variant chosen for knitting did not have good enough mechanical properties for the knitting machine used and broke when exposed to the stress from the knitting process. Therefore, the knitting test was not successful, but it was possible to sift out what parameter of the production line that had the greatest impact on the coated yarn properties.

Polyester is a synthetic material made from polyethylene terephthalate (PET), which is synthesised from fossil raw materials. Many clothing manufacturers are using polyester in their clothing, which, from an environmental perspective, creates a non-sustainable cycle. However, manufacturing can be made more sustainable by using recycled PET bottles as the raw material for polyester yarn. A clothing company that has taken a stand against materials made from fossil fibres and instead invests in only selling clothes made from sustainable materials is the Swedish children's clothing brand Polarn o. Pyret. Being able to use polyester made from PET bottles is important for Polarn o. Pyret to ensure the use of sustainable fibres in their clothing. In the past, the recycled polyester was used in combination with polyester from virgin fibre, but now the goal is instead to switch completely to the recycled polyester. However, the increased quantity of recycled polyester can involve new risks. The need to map potential contaminants is important because Polarn o. Pyret makes clothes for children, which entails strict requirements on the chemical content of the clothes. The purpose of this work is to get an overview of which contaminants that can accumulate in the polyester fibre and thus pose a risk when using recycled polyester made from PET bottles. The goal is to be able to shed light on these contaminants and write a proposal for a risk assessment guide that can establish a foundation for how Polarn o. Pyret should be able to act when using recycled polyester. The work was carried out through an extensive literature study, where research articles and review articles published on scientific databases were the main source of information. Focus was on the risk of non-intentionally added substances that can be traced from recycled PET bottles. The risk assessment was done in consideration of the regulations that is established within the European Union (EU), using the EU chemicals regulation REACH and the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) database.  After the mapping of NIAS in r-PET, the literature showed 42 potential contaminants to be present. These substances originated from the degradation of PET or the degradation of additives, and impurities from the recycling process and post-consumption use. Adhesives, labels, and caps are a contributing factor to the formation of NIAS originating from the recycling process. Since PVC was found to be the most common plastic that could contaminate PET via recycling, the additives used in PVC could also migrate to PET and create impurities. The most common phthalate found in this study was DEHP, which was the main plasticiser in PVC.  15 substances of the NIAS found in the literature was CMR substances, which means that they either were, or were suspected to be, carcinogenic, mutagenic and/or toxic to reproduction. Among these were substances such as benzene, antimony, cadmium, lead, acetaldehyde, and formaldehyde. Certain substances found through the literature were classified to be endocrine disruptors. These NIAS were p-nonylphenol, the organophosphite TNPP, the phthalates DEHP, DBP, BBP and, DIBP, nickel and BPA. Some of the NIAS found were under assessment of being classified as persistent, bioaccumulativ and toxic (PBT). The PBT substances found were the organophosphite compound Irgafos 168 and the UV-stabilisers Tinuvin P, UV-234 and UV- 328. The risk assessment showed 20 contaminants that may cause irritation to the skin/eyes and/or throat and 24 contaminants which may be toxic to the aquatic life.  This risk assessment showed that the recycling process of PET bottles is not completely safe, because potential contaminants could be transferred into the polyester yarn, and then carried over into children's garment and pose health risks to children. / Polyester är ett syntetiskt material tillverkat av polyetentereftalat (PET), som är syntetiserat från fossila råvaror. Många klädtillverkare använder polyester i sina kläder vilket ur ett miljöperspektiv skapar ett ohållbart kretslopp. Tillverkningen kan dock göras mer hållbar genom att använda återvunna PET-flaskor som råvara för polyestergarn. Ett klädföretag som tagit ställning mot material tillverkade av fossila fibrer och i stället satsar på att endast sälja kläder av hållbara material är det svenska barnklädesmärket Polarn o. Pyret. Att kunna använda polyester tillverkad av PET-flaskor är viktigt för att Polarn o. Pyret ska kunna säkerställa användningen av hållbara fibrer i sina kläder. Tidigare användes den återvunna polyestern i kombination med polyester från jungfruliga råvaror, men nu är målet i stället att helt gå över till den återvunna polyestern. Den ökade mängden återvunnen polyester kan dock medföra nya risker. Behovet av att kartlägga potentiella föroreningar är också viktigt eftersom Polarn o. Pyrets gör kläder för barn, vilket medför hårda krav på klädernas kemikalieinnehåll. Syftet med detta arbete var att få en överblick över vilka kemikalier som kan ansamlas i polyesterfibern och därmed utgöra en risk vid användning av återvunnen polyester tillverkad av PET-flaskor. Målet var att identifiera dessa föroreningar och inkludera dessa ämnen i ett förslag till en riskbedömningsguide. Denna riskbedömningsguide skulle därmed kunna utgöra ett stöd för Polarn o. Pyret vid hantering av återvunnen polyester. Arbetet har utförts genom en omfattande litteraturstudie, där forskningsartiklar och översiktsartiklar publicerade på vetenskapliga databaser var den huvudsakliga informationskällan. Fokus låg på risken för oavsiktligt tillsatta ämnen som kan spåras från återvunna PET-flaskor. Riskbedömningen har gjorts med hänsyn till de regelverk som är etablerade inom Europeiska unionen (EU), med hjälp av EU:s kemikalieförordning REACH och europeiska kemikaliemyndighetens (ECHA) databas.  Efter kartläggningen av oavsiktligt tillsatta ämnen i återvunnen PET visade litteraturen att det fanns 42 potentiella kontaminanter. Dessa ämnen härrörde från nedbrytningen av PET eller nedbrytningen av tillsatser, samt från föroreningar kopplade till återvinningsprocessen. Lim, etiketter och korkar var en bidragande faktor till bildandet av de oavsiktligt tillsatta ämnen som härrörde från återvinningsprocessen. Eftersom PVC visade sig vara den vanligaste plasten som kunde kontaminera PET via återvinningen, kunde tillsatserna som används i PVC också migrera till PET och skapa föroreningar. Den vanligaste ftalaten som förekom i återvunnen PET i denna studie var DEHP, vilken är den huvudsakliga mjukgöraren i PVC.  15 oavsiktligt tillsatta ämnen konstaterades vara CMR-ämnen, vilket betyder att de var, eller misstänktes vara, cancerframkallande, mutagena och/eller reproduktionstoxiska. Bland dessa fanns ämnen som bensen, antimon, kadmium, bly, acetaldehyd och formaldehyd. Vissa ämnen som påträffades genom litteraturstudien klassificerades som hormonstörande. Dessa var p- nonylfenol, organofosfiten TNPP, ftalaterna DEHP, DBP, BBP och DIBP, nickel och BPA. En del av de ämnen som kartlades under riskbedömningen klassificerades som persistenta, bioackumulerande och toxiska (PBT). Bland dessa förekom organofosfitföreningen Irgafos 168 (Tris(2,4-ditert-butylfenyl)fosfit) och UV-stabilisatorerna Tinuvin P, UV-234 och UV-328. Riskbedömningen visade på 20 kontaminanter som kan orsaka irritation på hud/ögon och/eller svalg och 24 föroreningar som kan vara giftiga för vattenlivet.  Denna riskbedömning visade att återvinningsprocessen av PET-flaskor inte är helt säkert, eftersom potentiella kontaminanter kan inkluderas i polyestergarnet och därigenom skapa faror för barnen vid användningen av kläder tillverkade från återvunnen polyester.

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Large organizations and research institutes store a huge volume of data nowadays.In order to gain any valuable insights distributed processing frameworks over acluster of computers are needed. Apache Hadoop is the prominent framework fordistributed storage and data processing. At SICS Swedish ICT we are building Hops, a new distribution of Apache Hadoop relying on a distributed, highly available MySQL Cluster NDB to improve performance. Hops-YARN is the resource management framework of Hops which introduces distributed resource management, load balancing the tracking of resources in a cluster. In Hops-YARN we make heavy usage of the back-end database storing all the resource manager metadata and incoming RPCs to provide high fault tolerance and very short recovery time. This project aims in optimizing the mechanisms used for persisting metadata in NDB both in terms of transactional commit time but also in terms of pre-processing them. Under no condition should the in-memory RM state diverge from the state stored in NDB. With these goals in mind several solutions were examined that improved the performance of the system, making Hops-YARN comparable to Apache YARN with the extra benefits of high-fault tolerance and short recovery time. The solutions proposed in this thesis project enhance the pure commit time of a transaction to the MySQL Cluster and the pre-processing and parallelism of our Transaction Manager. The results indicate that the performance of Hops increased dramatically, utilizing more resources on a cluster with thousands of machines. Increasing the cluster utilization by a few percentages can save organizations a big amount of money. / Nu för tiden lagrar stora organisationer och forskningsinstitutioner enorma mängder data.För att kunna utvinna någon värdefull information från dessa data behöver den bearbetasav ett kluster av datorer. När flera datorer gemensamt ska bearbeta data behöver de utgåfrån ett så kallat "distributed processing framework''. I dagsläget är Apache Hadoop detmest använda ramverket för distribuerad lagring och behandling av data. Detta examensarbeteär har genomförts vid SICS Swedish ICT där vi byggt Hops, en ny distribution avApache Hadoop som drivs av ett distribuerat MySQL Cluster NDB som erbjuder en hög tillgänglighet.Hops-YARN är Hops ramverk för resurshantering med distribuerade ResourceManagers som lastbalanserarderas ResourceTrackerService. I detta examensarbete använder vi Hops-Yarn på ett sätt där ``back-end''databasen flitigt används för att hantera ResourceManagerns metadata och inkommande RPC-anrop. Vårkonfiguration erbjuder en hög feltolerans och återställer sig mycket snabbt vidfelberäkningar. Vidare används NDB-klustrets Event API för att ResourceManager ska kunnakommunicera med den distribuerade ResourceTrackers. Detta projekt syftar till att optimera de mekanismer som används för ihållande metadatai NDB både i termer av transaktions begå tid men också i termer av pre-bearbeta dem medan samtidigt garantera enhetlighet i RM: s tillstånd. ResourceManagerns tillståndi RAM-minnet får under inga omständigheteravvika från det tillstånd som finns lagrat i NDB:n. Med dessa mål i åtanke undersöktes fleralösningar som förbättrar prestandan och därmed gör Hops-Yarn jämförbart med Apache YARN.De lösningar som föreslås i denna uppsats förbättrar “pure commit time” när en transaktiongörs i ett MySQL Cluster samt förbehandlingen och parallelismen i vår Transaction Manager.Resultaten tyder på att Hops prestanda ökade dramatiskt vilket ledde till ett effektivarenyttjande av tillgängliga resurser i ett kluster bestående av ett tusental datorer. Närnyttjandet av tillgänliga resurser i ett kluster förbättras med några få procent kanorganisationer spara mycket pengar.

This study investigated attributes of craft yarns of most interest to handweavers, sources of information used by handweavers to learn about craft yarns, and methods used by handweavers to communicate information about handwoven textiles to ultimate consumers. In addition, the extent of the sample group of handweavers’ knowledge of Federal Trade Commission TRR 16 C.F.R. 423 on care labeling for garments was examined. Finally, relationships between information processing behaviors drawn from the theory of enduring product involvement were examined. The survey was returned by 81 handweavers from four handweaver’s guilds in three Southeastern states. The yarn attribute with the highest importance rating was "matching the type of yarn to what it will be used for" with a mean importance rating of 5.649 out of 6. Important sources of care information for handweavers were experience, yarn wrappers, and other weavers. On the yarn wrapper, the most important information was fiber content and length in yards. Also of strong importance were washfastness rating, written care instructions, and lightfastness rating. Only two of seventeen weavers who sold their products included a permanently attached care label as required by law. And 70% of the weavers incorrectly believed that a paper hang tag was an acceptable care label for a garment when it was sold. Five elements of enduring product involvement were operationalized in the instrument: centrality to egoidentity, hedonic value, self-reported expertise, craft-related activities, and specialized fiber-art interests and activities. Each of the five elements had a high positive correlation to the overall score (p < .0001). The correlation between the involvement score and information seeking behavior frequency score was low, (0.345) but significant (p < .001), while the correlation between the involvement score and importance of attributes was not significant. / Master of Science

This paper focuses on two experimental methods that give indicators linked to the impregnation level of the yarn / matrix interface, in the case of Textile Reinforced Concrete (TRC). These methods have been tested on three different glass yarns laid in a cementitious matrix, with three different impregnation levels resulting from the manufacturing process. The first method (comparative mercury intrusion porosity test) is based on the evaluation by mercury intrusion porosity of the pores volume associated to the porosity inside and near the yarn. The second method (flow test) consists in measuring the flow rate of water along the yarn, with imposed flow conditions. The physical parameters measured by these two methods are both related to the pore size and to the porosity of the yarn / matrix interface. The results of the two methods are discussed and drawn in parallel to a qualitative characterization of the yarn matrix interface made by scanning electron microscopy. As a result, the connection between the results of the two methods and the SEM characterization is studied. It is shown how these methods can participate to characterize the yarn impregnation. Limitations of the methods are also discussed.

Manufacturing more reliable and lighter body armour using the fabrics with high-performance fibres is the development trend of ballistic protection device. However,increasing the reliability of the body armour normally needs to increase weight. Thisinvestigation aims to develop better ballistic performance of body armour withoutaffecting weight. Inter-yarn friction in quasi-static state in fabrics constructed for bodyarmour is one of the important factors affecting ballistic performance. This researchfocuses on increasing inter-yarn friction by surface modification methods for superiorballistic protection of woven fabrics. Finite element (FE) simulation is employed toanalyse the effects of inter-yarn friction on ballistic performance theoretically. BothAPPCVD and sol-gel methods are used to achieve the purpose of practically increasinginter-yarn friction. Ballistic experiments are conducted to evaluate ballistic performanceof the fabrics with different levels of inter-yarn friction after treatments. Through both numerical and experimental investigation, it is confirmed that increasinginter-yarn friction in quasi-static state can improve ballistic performance of fabrics. Theoverall energy absorption will be increased with the increase of inter-yarn frictionbecause higher inter-yarn friction generates higher resistance to the projectile, makesfabric structure more stable, leads to more involvement of the secondary yarns andincreases both KE and FDE percentages. Moreover, higher levels of inter-yarn frictionwill flatten the trauma and make the fabric response more globalised owing to the lesstransverse deflection ability. However, over high inter-yarn friction is counterproductivebecause of stress concentration on the primary yarns. For the surface modification, one of the aramid yarns, Twaron® yarn and one of theUHMWPE yarns, Dyneema® yarn, and their fabric products are used as the substrates. SEM analyses are used to characterise the morphology changes. Both FTIR and EDXanalyses are conducted to identify the coated substance. Based on coefficients of friction test and yarn pull-out test, the APPCVD treatment and sol-gel treatment have been proved as two effective ways to increase inter-yarn friction and at the same time the tensile properties of the yarns and the weight are almost unaffected. Moreover, sol-gel treatment has been established as an effective method for improvingballistic performance without significant weight increase, where the energy absorption ofthe Dyneema® fabric can be increased by 6.74%, and the trauma depth can be decreased by16.99% for Twaron® fabric panel and by10.73% for Dyneema® fabric panel.