Detta examensarbete är en del av CelluFil-projektet och syftar till att optimera förhållandena för upplösning av cellulosa i vattenlösning av natriumhydroxid följd av regenering i form av ett garn. Tidigare arbeten har visa tatt cellulosa kan lösas i vattenlösning vid -10°C, men sådana förhållanden är inte tillämpliga i industriell skala. Målet med detta projekt är att arbeta vid rumstemperatur.  För detta kommer karboxylgrupper att införas i cellulosakedjorna för att öka cellulosans lighet i ett alkaliskt vattenbaserat medium. Därefter kommer cellulosan att fällas ut igen i en sur lösning. Natriumperjodat gör det möjligt att oxidera alkoholgrupperna i cellulosakedjan på C2- och C3- positionerna genom att öppna glukosenheterna för att skapa två karbonylfunktioner (aldehyde) som sedan lätt kan oxideras till karboxylgrupper med överoxidering med natriumklorit.  Den första delen av rapporten är tillägnad litteraturöversikten om ämnet med focus på natriumperjodat oxidation. Därefter föreslås ett allmänt protokoll från natriumperjodat oxidation till regenering av cellulosa till garn i en svavelsyralösning. Flera förhållanden för natriumperjodat oxidationen testas vid olika temperaturer, med eller utan metallsalter och med olika oxidationsdoser.  Upplösningsutbytet är direkt kopplat till karboxylinnehållet infört i cellulosakedjorna. Periodatoxidationen leder också till minskningen av polymerisationsgraden men cellulosas DPv förblir tillräckligt hög med det riktade COOH-innehållet och för textilapplikationer. Den möjliga produktionen av hydroxylradikaler under natriumperjodat oxidationen har undersökts med EPR/Spin-trapping. Endast försök gjorda med UV-strålning visade OH°. Således förklaras fortfarande inte depolymerisationen av cellulosa under perjodat oxidation framställd under mörka förhållanden. Eftersom, konsumtion av natriumperjodat är låg under oxidationen är dess återvinning en nyckelfråga för en industriell applikation. Det har visat sig att oxidationsfiltraten kan återanvändas flera gånger före total konsumtion av periodat. Kvaliteten på celluloser oxiderade med återvunna filtrat, särskilt deras upplösningsförmåga, bör kontrolleras. / This master thesis is part of the Cellufil Project and aims to optimize the conditions for dissolving cellulose in aqueous sodium hydroxide solution followed by regeneration it in the form of a yarn. Previous works have shown that cellulose could be dissolved in soda at -10°C, but such conditions are not applicable at industrial scale. The objective of the present project is to work at room temperature.  For that, carboxyl groups will be introduced in the cellulose chains in order to increase cellulose solubility in an alkaline aqueous medium, after this it is reprecipitated it in acidic solutions. Periodate makes it possible to oxidize the alcohol groups of cellulose on C2 and C3 positions by opening the glucose units to create two carbonyls functions (aldehyde) which can then be easily oxidized into carboxylic groups with overoxidation using sodium chlorite. A first part of the report is dedicated to the literature review on the subject, focusing on periodate oxidation. Then, a general protocol is proposed from the periodate oxidation to the regeneration of cellulose into yarn in sulfuric acid solutions. Several conditions for the periodate oxidation are tested, at different temperatures, with or without metal salts and with different oxidant dosages.  The dissolution yield is directly linked to the carboxyl content introduced in the cellulose chains. The periodate oxidation also leads to the decrease of the cellulose degree of polymerization but cellulose DPv still remains sufficiently high in the case of the targeted COOH contents and for textile applications. The possible production of hydroxyl radicals during the periodate oxidation has been investigated by EPR/Spin-trapping. Only trials made with UV radiations showed OH°. Thus, cellulose depolymerization during periodate oxidation made in dark conditions is still not explained. Because the periodate consumption is low during the oxidation, its recycling is a key issue for an industrial application. It has been shown that the oxidation filtrates could be reused several times before total oxidant consumption. The quality of celluloses oxidized with recycled filtrates, especially their dissolving ability, should be checked.

No description available.

För att nå de Globala målen 2030 kommer vi som samhälle att behöva minska vårt globala ekologiska fotavtryck avsevärt. Textilbranschen står idag för en betydande del av detta ekologiska fotavtryck både genom markanvändning, klimatpåverkande utsläpp, förorening av mark och vatten med mera. Detta har lett till att man inom textilbranschen idag efterfrågar allt mera hållbara lösningar. Det finns ett antal sorters garn som bidrar med lägre miljöpåverkan på olika sätt, dock förekommer dessa idag mindre frekvent på marknaden. Dessa material skulle kunna vara en del av lösningen på textilindustrins stora miljöpåverkan idag. Ett av dessa material som vi valt att titta närmare på var pappersgarn, som vid framställning förbrukar betydligt mindre resurser som vatten, tillsatskemikalier och energi (Fakirov 2015). Pappersgarnets utveckling har dock än så länge begränsats av dess styvhet och dåliga stickbarhet. Detta projektetet har syftat till att försöka minska pappersgarnets styvhet och öka dess stickbarhet genom att tvinna det med olika antal garnsnodd av viskosgarn. Vi tvinnade ett entrådigt 17 tex hampaviskosgarn på 100, 300 och 500 garnsnodd/meter med kärnspunnen metoden. Sedan behandlades garnet med fettsyra för att motverka sprödheten och förbereda för stickning. Garnet stickades på en rundstickmaskin med bindningen slätstickning. Tester som gjordes på garn var dragprovning och friktion. På trikån utfördes också dragprovning(bristning) men även styvhetsprovning samt nötningsprovning. Trikå av blandgarn visades sig tillföra mjukare känsla på tyget jämfört med endast papper. Vid dragprovning av trikå framkom det att större andel av viskos tillför mer styrka i och med att det behövdes högre tryck samt tid för att uppnå brott på trikån. Tvinning med olika antal garnsnodd av viskosgarn har visat sig medföra små skillnader gällande stickbarhet då det tidvis uppstod hål på de fyra olika tyger som stickades under stickningsprocessen. Garner av 300- och 500 garnsnodd/meter hade dock flest svaga punkter (brott på pappersgarnet) utan att uppvisa synbara hål på tyget. Skillnader i styvhet av trikån var kännbara mellan alla tygen, dock gick det inte att få användbara resultat från styvhetsprovaren då denna testmetod var olämplig för den valda trikåbindningen eftersom tyget rullade sig. / To achieve the Global Goals 2030, we as a society will need to significantly reduce our global ecological footprint. The textile industry of today accounts for a significant part of this ecological footprint both through use of land, climate-affecting emissions, soil- and water pollution and more. This has led to an increasing demand for more sustainable solutions in the textile industry. There are a number of types of yarn that have a lower environmental impact. Many of them however have quite a lower market share today. One of these materials that we chose to take a closer look at was paper yarn, which in it’s production consumes significantly less resources than other usual yarns on the market (Fakirov 2015). However, the development of use of paper yarn has so far been limited by its rigidity and poor knitability. This project has aimed to try to reduce the stiffness of the paper yarn and increase its knitability. This was done by twisting different numbers of twist/meter of viscose yarn, around the paper yarn. We twisted a single-threaded 17 tex hemp viscose yarn around the paper yarn at 100, 300 and 500 twist/meter with the core-spun method. Then the yarn was treated with fatty acid to counteract the brittleness and prepare it for knitting. The yarn was knitted on a circular knitting machine with a single jersey stitch. Tests done on yarn were tensile testing and friction testing. The tricot also was subjected to tensile testing (rupture), stiffness testing and abrasion testing. Viscose mixed yarn knitwear was found to have a softer feeling of the fabric compared to just knitted paper yarn. During tensile testing of tricot, it was found that a larger proportion of viscose adds more strength as higher pressure was needed as well as time to achieve a stretch in the tricot. Twisting with different twists of viscose yarn has been shown to cause small differences in knitability as there were occasional holes in the paper yarn knit during the knitting process. Yarns of 300 and 500 twist/meter, however, had the most weak points without showing visible holes on the fabric. Differences in the stiffness of the tricot were noticeable between all the fabrics, however, it was not possible to obtain useful results from the stiffness tester as this test method was probably unsuitable for the selected tricot binding because the fabric rolled.

Det talas allt oftare om de problem som världens plastanvändning åsamkar miljön genom exempelvis nedskräpning och mikroplaster. Det finns många olika typer och användningsområden för plast. Den typ som anses värst i avseende till miljöpåverkan är plasten som används en gång och sedan förlorar sin funktion, det som idag kallas engångsplast. Ett av de vanligaste områdena där engångsplast används är inom förpackningsindustrin för livsmedel. År 2019/2020 växte en projektidé bland en grupp elever om att se över alternativa förpackningsmaterial till främst frukt och grönt i matvaruhandeln. Idéen utvecklades och vid en expo på Textilhögskolan år 2020 presenterades ett citrusnät för ekologiska citroner stickat på en manuell stickmaskin i pappersgarn. Som fortsättning på arbetet är nu nästa steg att undersöka möjligheterna att sticka en motsvarande prototyp på en industriell maskin och vilka utmaningar som följer. Stickningen genomfördes i Borås på Textilhögskolans trikålabb. Maskinen som användes är en flatsticksmaskin av typen STOLL CMS822 HP knit and wear. Pappersgarn av olika garnnummer kom uteslutande från företaget OJO+ Fibers och baseras på pappersmassa från manillaplantan. Två bindningar stickades, en mesh-bindning och en stickning med flotteringar. Mesh-bindningen testades även med garn av olika garnnummer och olika antal ingående garn. De viktigaste parametrarna för möjligheten att sticka på industriell flatsticksmaskin visade sig vara garnets styrka, styvhet samt maskinens delning. Efter två separata produktionsgenomgångar genomfördes en visuell bedömning som avgjorde vilka stickningar som lämpade sig att gå vidare till ett dragprovstest. Standarden som användes för dragprovstest var (SS-EN ISO 13934–1:2013) och genomfördes på en Tinius Olsen H10KT (Elastocon). Fem provkroppar av varje stickning testades först i torrt- och sedan vått tillstånd genom blötläggning enligt standard. För att jämföra data från dragprovstestningen genomfördes en variansanalys för att upptäcka eventuella skillnader mellan de olika konstruktionerna. Variansanalys genomfördes även inom varje grupp för att undersöka skillnader mellan torra och våta prover av samma konstruktion. Resultatet från dragprovet visar en stor spridning i datamaterialet. På grund av spridningen går det inte att statistiskt säkerställa några slutsatser kring vilken konstruktion som är starkast. Främsta anledningen till spridningen är avvikelser från standarden som var nödvändiga för att genomföra testingen samt faktumet att (SS-EN ISO 13934–1:2013) huvudsakligen är till för vävda varor, ej stickade. Två av mesh-konstruktionerna kunde påvisa signifikant skillnad i mätresultatet mellan de våta respektive torra proverna, som då visade en svag tendens till att de våta proverna klarade högre spänning. Detta kan komma till användning för att enkelt öka garnets styrka vid stickning. / There’s an ongoing worldwide discussion regarding the environmental impact of plastic use. Single- use plastic is considered one of the most problematic due to the loss of functionality after one use. A common industry using single-use plastic is the food packaging industry. In 2019/2020, a project idea grew to review alternative packaging materials for fruits and vegetables. A prototype was presented at the Swedish School av Textile’s expo in 2020, a citrus net hand-knitted in paper yarn for organic lemons. The next step was to investigate the possibility of knitting paper nets on industrial machines and what difficulties may arise. The knitting was carried out in the Textilhögskolan in Borås machine hall on a flat knitting machine, a STOLL CMS822 HP knit and wear. The paper yarn used came exclusively from OJO+ Fibers and was made from pulp from the manilla plant. Two bindings were knitted, one mesh and one with floatations. The mesh binding was knitted in multiple variations, yarn of different yarn numbers and numbers of ingoing yarns. The most important parameters for knitting on industrial machines turned out to be the strength of the yarn, stiffness and gauge of the machine. A visual assessment was carried out after two separate production reviews and determined which knits were suitable to proceed to a tensile test. The standard used for tensile tests was (SS-EN ISO 13934-1:2013) on a Tinius Olsen H10KT (Elastocon). Five specimens of each knit were tested, first in the dry state and then in the wet state. A variance analysis compared the data from the tensile test, partly between the different constructions and between dry and wet samples within each group. The result shows a large spread within the data material, which cannot determine with certainty any conclusions about which construction is the strongest. The main reason for this spread is necessary deviations from the standard and the fact that (SS-EN ISO 13934-1:2013) is mainly for woven goods, not knitted ones. Two mesh constructions demonstrated a significant difference in results between the wet and dry samples. A weak tendency showed wet samples withstanding higher stress than dry ones, which could be a solution to increase the strength of the yarn while knitting.

No description available.

No description available.

Electroactive textile fibers are key components in smart and interactive textile applications. In previous research on textile base conductive fibers, viscose fibers were coated with poly (3,4-ethylenedioxythiophne) (PEDOT) using oxidative chemical vapor deposition (oCVD) technique[1]. Ferric chloride was used as oxidant and reaction conditions were optimized at which better electrical as well as mechanical properties of conductive viscose fibers could be achieved. In this thesis work, effect of new parameters such as pretreatment of viscose fibers with solvents, drying of oxidant treated viscose fibers at different time and temperature and comparison of two different oxidants have been tried. One new and important oxidant, ferric (III) p-toluene sulfonate or ferric (III) tosylate, used to prepare PEDOT coated viscose fibers and then compared with PEDOT coated viscose fibers prepared using oxidant ferric (III) chloride. Viscose fibers have been treated with two well know solvents, acetone and ethyl acetate before soaking in oxidant solution. Oxidant enriched fibers dried at different temperature for variable time prior to polymerization step. Knitted structures of conductive viscose fibers have been prepared. Hand washing of PEDOT coated viscose fibers with tap water and machine washing of knitted structures according to the international standard ISO EN-6330 have been performed and washing effects were investigated. Effects of all of the above mentioned variables on electromechanical properties of PEDOT coated viscose fibers were studied by using tensile testing, TGA analysis, FTIR spectra and conductivity measurements. Stretch sensing properties of knitted structures; before and after washing, were determined on cyclic tester. The purpose of this study is to enhance the properties of PEDOT-coated viscose fibers by controlling different parameters and to evaluate their usage as stretch sensors as well as to check the washability of PEDOT coated viscose fibers and knitted structures. Better electromechanical properties were achieved on new parameters and PEDOT coated viscose fibers were successfully utilized as stretch sensors. PEDOT coated viscose fibers could have potential to apply in areas such as, military textiles, medical textiles and sensors. / Program: Master programme in Textile Technology

3D textile performs offer a high potential to increase mechanical properties of composites and they can reduce the production steps and costs as well. The variety of woven structures is enormous. The algorithms based on the conventional weaving notation can only represent the possible woven structures in a limited way. Within the scope of this dissertation, a new weaving notation was developed in order to analyze the multilayer woven structures analytically. Technological solutions were developed in order to guarantee a reproducible preform production with commingled hybrid yarns. Terry weaving technique can be utilized to create vertical connections on carrier fabrics, which makes it suitable for the development of complex profiles. A double rapier weaving machine was modified with electronically controlled terry weaving and pneumatic warp yarn pull-back systems. Various spacer fabrics and 3D profiles were developed. A linear take-up system is developed to assure reproducible preform production with a minimum material damage. Integrated cutting and laying mechanisms on the take-up system provides a high level of automation.

The character of woven textiles is dependent on both the materials and the loom technology used. While digitally-controlled jacquard looms are a major development in weaving technology, they have mostly been used in developing representational and pictorial weaving. Such three-dimensional weaving as exists, utilises materials in predictably similar ways. Here, through systematic experimentation, three shrinking and two resisting yarns have been combined in multi-layer weaves in order to explore their potential for form-generating behaviour. Three-dimensional form occurs when the shrinking yarn/s place the resisting yarn/s under tension. To relieve this tension, the resisting yarn moves within the weave, creating waves or folds. The resulting form is highly sensitive to variation, demonstrating emergent behaviour, and identifying the woven textile as a complex system. Demonstrating the variety of form possible from a limited number of materials, the results represent a small body of work aiming to re-form weaving. The exploration of synergistic material combinations is therefore shown to be an exercise of value to fields from art textiles through to industry. It demonstrates that there is great development potential in woven textiles. Understanding the behaviour of materials is fundamental to furthering form-based weaving.

Made available in DSpace on 2014-12-17T14:57:53Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 MarcosSA_TESE.pdf: 2204560 bytes, checksum: f5d73bc23810f679641a247536d26b8a (MD5) Previous issue date: 2012-01-30 / Coordena??o de Aperfei?oamento de Pessoal de N?vel Superior / The present work consists in the analysis of tribologycal properties of basic and multifunctional knitted fabrics. This knowledge has fundamental importance for the textile industry since it can quantify, in an objective way, the tactil. The fabrics used were characterized by friction and mechanical tests for determining the viscoelastic region, wear resistance and friction coefficient of the fabrics used. The stress-strain curve was obtained by the method Kawabata, KES-FB1. Wear tests performed with the aid of equipment Martindale. The measurement of friction coefficient, two methods were used and analyzed comparatively. The first was a method already established worldwide known as KES-FB4 and the second was an innovative method called FRICTORQ, developed by the University of Minho. These two methods were compared taking into account the relative motion between the tribologycal pairs are different from each method. While the first motion is translational, the second is rotational. It was formal that the knitted had a multifunctional fabrics tribologycal performance which was better than the basic knitted fabrics, as the viscoelastic region, was laager highlighting a multifunctional structure, with greater wear resistance mainly on the back side of the knitted fabrics and lower friction coefficient. Performing a comparative analysis between two methods used to measure the friction coefficient, it was formal that both methods were consistent in terms of results. In operational terms, the FRICTORQ showed ease of operation and increased reproducibility of results / O presente trabalho consiste nas an?lises das propriedades tribol?gicas de tecidos de malhas b?sicas e de malhas multifuncionais. Esse conhecimento ? de fundamental import?ncia para a ind?stria t?xtil uma vez que pode quantificar, de forma objetiva, o sentido do toque. Os tecidos utilizados foram caracterizados atrav?s de ensaios mec?nicos e de atrito, para determina??o da regi?o viscoel?stica, resist?ncia ao desgaste e coeficiente de atrito. A curva tens?o-deforma??o foi obtida pelo m?todo Kawabata, KES-FB1. Ensaios de desgaste foram realizados com aux?lio do equipamento Martindale. Para a medida do coeficiente de atrito, nos dois m?todos que foram utilizados e analisados comparativamente. O primeiro m?todo j? consolidado mundialmente, denominado KES-FB4 e o segundo m?todo inovador, denominado FRICTORQ, desenvolvido pela Universidade do Minho. Esses dois m?todos foram comparados levando-se em considera??o que os movimentos relativos entre os pares tribol?gicos s?o diferentes em cada m?todo. Enquanto no primeiro o movimento ? translacional, no segundo ? rotacional. Verificou-se que as malhas multifuncionais apresentaram um desempenho tribol?gico superior ?s malhas b?sicas, determinadas pela maior regi?o viscoel?stica, destacando a estrutura multifuncional, maior resist?ncia ao desgaste principalmente no lado avesso das malhas e menor coeficiente de atrito. Analisando comparativamente os dois m?todos utilizados para medi??o do coeficiente de atrito, verificouse que ambos foram consistentes em termos de resultados. Em termos operacionais, o FRICTORQ foi o que apresentou maior facilidade de opera??o e maior reprodutibilidade dos resultados