Divining the Martyr is a project developed in order to achieve the Master of Arts (Research) degree. This is composed of 70% creative work displayed in an exhibition and 30% written work contained in this exegesis. The project was developed through practice-led research in order to answer the question “In what ways can creative practice synthesize and illuminate issues of martyrdom in contemporary makeover culture?” The question is answered using a postmodern framework about martyrdom as it is manifested in contemporary society. The themes analyzed throughout this exegesis relate to concepts about sainthood and makeover culture combined with actual examples of tragic cases of cosmetic procedures. The outcomes of this project fused three elements: Mexican cultural history, Mexican (Catholic) religious traditions, and cosmetic makeover surgery. The final outcomes were a series of installations integrating contemporary and traditional interdisciplinary media, such as sound, light, x-ray technology, sculpture, video and aspects of performance. These creative works complement each other in their presentation and concept, promoting an original contribution to the theme of contemporary martyrdom in makeover culture.

Thesis (M.A.)--Miami University, Dept. of Communication, 2006. / Title from first page of PDF document. Includes bibliographical references (p. 56-59).

Σκοπός της παρούσας έρευνας είναι να μελετήσει πως τα αισθητηριακά ερεθίσματα επηρεάζουν την αντίληψη της ποιότητας μιας καλλυντικής κρέμας προσώπου, την ικανοποίηση, την πίστη και τα συναισθήματα που αναπτύσσει ο καταναλωτής απέναντι στην κρέμα. Πλέον οι καταναλωτές θεωρούν δεδομένα τα λειτουργικά χαρακτηριστικά των προϊόντων και αποζητούν το συναισθηματικό δέσιμο με το προϊόν. Ο σκοπός του μάρκετινγκ των αισθήσεων (sensory marketing) είναι να ενισχύσει το συναισθηματικό δέσιμο των καταναλωτών με τα προϊόντα μέσω της χρήσης των πέντε βασικών αισθήσεων. Δεν έχουν πραγματοποιηθεί ακόμα πολλές έρευνες πάνω στο μάρκετινγκ των αισθήσεων και στο πως επηρεάζει την αντίληψη των καταναλωτών για το προϊόν. Το θεωρητικό εννοιολογικό πλαίσιο της συγκεκριμένης έρευνας προέκυψε από τη συγχώνευση του συμπεριφοριστικού μοντέλου S-O-R (Mehrabian and Russell, 1974) και του εννοιολογικού μοντέλου για το μάρκετινγκ των αισθήσεων της Krishna (2011). Το εργαλείο με το οποίο μελετήθηκε η επίδραση των αισθητηριακών ερεθισμάτων στην αντίληψη της ποιότητας της καλλυντικής κρέμας ήταν ένα ερωτηματολόγιο που μοιράστηκε σε 9 φαρμακεία της Θεσσαλονίκης και συμπληρώθηκε από 154 άτομα. Μέσα από την ανάλυση παραγόντων (factor analysis) προέκυψαν 11 καταναλωτικά προφίλ. Τα ερευνητικά συμπεράσματα υποδεικνύουν πως τα αισθητηριακά ερεθίσματα επηρεάζουν την αντιλαμβανόμενη ποιότητα θετικά, οδηγώντας σε ένα ισχυρό (συναισθηματικό και λογικό) δέσιμο του καταναλωτή με την κρέμα που έχει επιλέξει. / The purpose of this study is to explore how sensory stimuli influence emotions associated, perceived quality, satisfaction and loyalty towards a face cream brand. Nowadays consumers believe that the functional attributes of products are granted and look for an emotional attachment with each product. The aim of sensory marketing is to reinforce the attachment between a product and its consumers, through the involvement of human senses. Sensory marketing is yet a new practice, thus the number of studies concerning its effect on brand perception are limited. Two conceptual frameworks, the stimulus-organism-response (S.O.R.) behavioral framework (Mehrabian and Russell, 1974) and the conceptual framework of sensory marketing, (Krishna, 2011), were merged and elaborated to construct the research model of this study. The use of sensory marketing at this study was explored by administrating an anonymous self-completed questionnaire, which was distributed to 154 face cream buyers, within 9 pharmacy stores across Thessaloniki, Greece. For the purposes of the study, an exploratory principal component analysis was conducted. The factor solution identified 11 factors. All factors were labeled, interpreted and discussed in the light of existing knowledge in order to understand better the consumer behavior in relation to sensory stimuli. The findings indicate that sensory stimuli influence brand perception positively leading to a stronger (rational and emotional) bond between the brand and the consumer.

The aim of this thesis, which is called "Organization of production and quality in the company" was to assess how the management and organization help to abide by the production quality. There was introduced a production process of two chosen products, a process of the production flow and a background of the production in the selected company. Next part includes the description of the quality management of the chosen products including requirements and standards which are necessary for the production of the cosmetic products. Based on the findings of deficiencies, there were suggested measures to improve the quality management system.

Submitted by Cristiane Oliveira (cristiane.oliveira@fgv.br) on 2011-06-02T14:25:41Z No. of bitstreams: 1 68080200008.pdf: 724995 bytes, checksum: 0d232a6a048ed5cbe260b0fe07435cf6 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Suzinei Teles Garcia Garcia(suzinei.garcia@fgv.br) on 2011-06-02T14:47:30Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 68080200008.pdf: 724995 bytes, checksum: 0d232a6a048ed5cbe260b0fe07435cf6 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Suzinei Teles Garcia Garcia(suzinei.garcia@fgv.br) on 2011-06-02T14:52:37Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 68080200008.pdf: 724995 bytes, checksum: 0d232a6a048ed5cbe260b0fe07435cf6 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2011-06-02T15:00:36Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 68080200008.pdf: 724995 bytes, checksum: 0d232a6a048ed5cbe260b0fe07435cf6 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2010-12-16 / The objective of this study is to understand the challenges that could contribute for the franchising to become a representative distribution channel in the Brazilian cosmetic market. The research was conducted from a qualitative approach, in which were made twenty and two interviews with franchisors and franchisees, in the period between September and November of 2010. The interviewees were members of the following companies: Água de Cheiro, Antídoto, Contém 1g, Mahogany e O Boticário. The results were that the franchise model is seen by franchisees and franchisors as a good alternative for distribution and capillarity of the brand. However, the franchise model presents some challenges, such as the improvement of the franchisor´s engagement, a better selection process of franchisees, increase financial support, adjust the stores location method and, finally, improve the method for setting royalties. / O objetivo fundamental deste trabalho foi investigar e entender quais são os desafios para que o modelo de franquias possa crescer ainda mais e adquirir maior representatividade enquanto modelo de distribuição no setor de perfumaria e cosméticos brasileiro. Para isto, utilizou-se, além de uma revisão bibliográfica a partir do referencial teórico disponível, uma abordagem qualitativa, segundo a qual foram realizadas vinte e duas entrevistas com franqueados e franqueadores, no período compreendido entre setembro e novembro de 2010. As empresas representadas por estes entrevistados foram: Água de Cheiro, Antídoto, Contém 1g, Mahogany e O Boticário. A realização destas entrevistas revelou que, embora o modelo de franquias seja visto por franqueados e franqueadores como uma boa alternativa para a distribuição de produtos e para o aumento da capilaridade da marca, o modelo de franquias apresenta alguns desafios a serem alcançados, tais como maior participação ativa da rede franqueadora, melhoria no modelo de avaliação e seleção de franqueados, melhor suporte financeiro aos franqueados nos primeiros anos após a abertura da loja, melhor modelo para escolha da localização das lojas e, por fim, melhor modelo para definição de taxas de royalties.

L’utilisation de technologies d’extraction est cruciale dans l’industrie cosmétique. Cette étape de procédé consomme beaucoup d’énergie et de grandes quantités de matières premières. De plus, les solvants utilisés ne sont pas tous anodins, et certains sont issus de produits pétroliers. Afin de mieux préserver l’environnement et la santé humaine, il faut trouver des alternatives aux solvants et aux méthodes d’extractions conventionnelles. Pour cela, nous avons utilisé l’eau comme solvant et des technologies innovantes pour créer de nouvelles méthodes. Les travaux présentés dans cette thèse font tout d’abord un état de l’art des méthodes d’extractions utilisant l’eau comme solvant. L’ensemble de ces méthodes très anciennes, comme récentes, ont toutes leurs spécificités en termes de matrices et de molécules extraites. Puis nous nous sommes intéressés à une méthode ancienne qu’est l’hydrodistillation. L’extraction et la séparation simultanée des composés hydrosolubles et volatiles des feuilles de boldo (Peumus boldus, Mol.) est ensuite effectuée à l’aide des micro-ondes. L’optimisation des paramètres ont ensuite aboutis sur un scale-up à l’échelle pilote. L’intensification et la mise en continu de l’extraction des feuilles de boldo assisté par ultrasons sont ensuite explorés. Puis, nous étudions une méthode en cours de maturation avec l’assistance des tensioactifs pour l’extraction de composés hydrophiles et hydrophobes du romarin (Rosmarinus officinalis L.) dans l’eau. Enfin, nous avons exploré une méthode d’extraction encore en R&D. Elle utilise uniquement l’eau pour obtenir des composés hydrophobes de l’écorce d’orange douce ( Citrus sinensis L.) à l’aide d’un appareil micro-ondes pour atteindre un état subcritique. / The use of innovative extraction technologies is of outmost importance in the cosmetic industry. This process step is consuming large amounts of energy and materials. Furthermore, some solvents used are not benign. Some of them are from oil products. In order to better preserve the environment and human health, we must find alternatives to solvents and conventional extraction methods. To pursue this goal, we will use water as solvent and innovative technologies to create new extraction methods of natural products. The work presented in this thesis first establishes a review of extraction methods. All those methods, old as well as new ones, are specific in terms of target matrix or extracted molecules. Then, we focused on a mature extraction method: hydrodistillation. The simultaneous extraction and separation of water soluble compounds as well as volatile compounds from boldo leaves (Peumus boldus, Mol.), is undertaken with the help of microwaves. The parameters optimization leads to a pilot scale-up. The intensification and continuous mode transition of the ultrasound assisted extraction of boldo leaves is then studied. Afterwards, we studied the maturing method of surfactant addition to water. This is in order to extract hydrophilic and hydrophobic compounds of rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis L.). Finally, we explored an extraction method still in R&D. This method use only water in order to extract hydrophobic compounds of sweet orange peels ( Citrus sinensis L.) with a microwave device.

L'industrie cosmétique a un recours croissant aux espèces végétales comme sources de principesactifs naturels. Leur extraction nécessite des supports sélectifs tels que les polymères à empreintesmoléculaires (MIP). Les travaux de cette thèse reposent sur le développement de MIP pourl’extraction sélective de la glucosamine, de la fructosazine et de la 2,5-déoxyfructosazine.Dans une première partie, trois approches ont été développées pour extraire la glucosamine par desMIP : l’approche covalente, semi-covalente et non covalente. Pour chacune, les différents paramètresintervenant dans la synthèse des MIP ont été optimisés. Les meilleurs résultats ont été obtenus avecun MIP synthétisé selon une approche non covalente ionique reposant sur la complexation de laglucosamine par un acide sulfonique. Les performances du MIP se sont avérées supérieures à cellesde supports commerciaux et des extractions à partir de végétaux ont été réalisées. Le potentielindustrialisable du MIP a été validé lors de premiers tests à plus grande échelle.Dans une deuxième partie, l’extraction simultanée de la fructosazine et de la 2,5-déoxyfructosazine aété réalisée suite au développement d’un MIP synthétisé selon une approche covalente reposant surla formation d’esters boroniques. Une méthode de synthèse originale est exposée puisque lestemplates ont été formés in situ lors de la polymérisation. Le MIP obtenu s’est avéré sélectif dechaque composé et a permis de purifier et de séparer la fructosazine et la 2,5-déoxyfructosazine dematrices végétales et alimentaires.Tous ces travaux ont été réalisés dans une démarche éco-responsable s’appuyant sur l’emploi desolvants aqueux lors de la polymérisation et de l’extraction. / The cosmetic industry uses plants as sources of natural active ingredients. The extraction of theseactive ingredients requires selective extraction method such as molecularly imprinted polymers (MIP)technique. This thesis describes the development of MIP for the selective extraction of glucosamine,fructosazine and 2,5-déoxyfructosazine.In the first part, three approaches were developed to extract glucosamine by MIP technique: thecovalent approach, semi-covalent and noncovalent. For each approach, the various parametersinvolved in the synthesis of the MIP were optimized. The best results were obtained with a MIPsynthesized with a non-covalent ionic approach based on the complexation of glucosamine by asulfonic acid. The MIP exhibits higher performance than commercial media and extractions fromplants were performed. The potential for industrialization of the MIP was validated during initial testson a larger scale.In the second part, the simultaneous extraction of fructosazine and 2,5-déoxyfructosazine wasperformed following the development of a MIP synthesized using a covalent approach based on theformation of boronic esters. An original synthesis method is exposed since the templates were formedin situ during the polymerization. The MIP obtained showed good selectivity for each compound andallowed to separate and purify fructosazine and 2,5-déoxyfructosazine from plant and food matrices.All these works were performed according to an eco-friendly approach based on the use of aqueoussolvents as solvents for polymerization and extraction.

L’allergie cutanée est un problème majeur de santé publique pouvant fortement impacter la vie de l’individu atteint. Une cause largement reconnue d’allergie de contact sont les substances parfumantes intégrées dans les produits cosmétiques. La réglementation cosmétique en vigueur oblige le fabricant à évaluer les risques de ces substances. Bien que certaines de ces substances soient également présentes dans les huiles essentielles, il n’existe pas à l’heure actuelle une telle réglementation pour les huiles essentielles. L’objectif de cette thèse a été de caractériser l’exposition à certaines substances parfumantes d’intérêt provenant de la consommation d’huiles essentielles et de produits cosmétiques. Nous avons d’abord étudié la consommation d’huiles essentielles au sein d’un panel représentatif de la population française. Nous avons ensuite défini les substances parfumantes sensibilisantes retrouvées dans ces huiles. L’exposition cutanée aux produits cosmétiques a également été étudiée. Enfin, ces données ont été croisées pour comparer l’exposition provenant de la consommation de ces deux produits au limonène en utilisant des méthodes statistiques probabilistes (Méthodes de Monte-Carlo). Cela a permis de démontrer que les huiles essentielles pouvaient être un fort contributeur dans l’exposition globale au limonène, pour certaines zones corporelles comme le visage. Il a donc été mis en évidence l’intérêt de la prise en compte des huiles essentielles, et non pas seulement des produits cosmétiques dans l’exposition globale à certains allergènes de contact, pour mieux protéger la population. / Skin sensitization is a public health issue in France and in the rest of Europe that can impact the life of the affected individual. A well-known cause of skin sensitization are the fragrance allergens present in cosmetics. The European cosmetic regulation in force to date requires the manufacturer to assess the risks of these substances prior to their placing on the market. Although some of these substances are also present in essential oils, there is currently no such regulation for these products. The aim of this work was to characterize the exposure to particular fragrance substances of interest due to the consumption of essential oils and cosmetics. At first, we studied the consumption of essential oils in a representative panel of the French population. Then, we defined the fragrance allergens found in these oils. We also defined dermal exposure to cosmetics. Finally, these data were crossed using probabilistic statistical methods (Monte-Carlo methods) to compare exposure to a particular allergen present in these two products: the limonene. This work permitted to demonstrate that essential oils can be a strong contributor in the global exposure to limonene, for particular body areas, e.g. face. This work therefore highlights the importance of taking into account essential oils, and not only cosmetics in the global exposure to particular contact allergens, in order to better protect the population.

A substituição dos conservantes sintéticos em cosméticos por produtos naturais é uma tendência, direcionando as pesquisas para a busca de novas alternativas de compostos antimicrobianos naturais. Extratos de bambus asiáticos têm ampla aplicação na indústria cosmética, sendo muito utilizados em diversas formulações. No Brasil, a triagem química de espécies nativas de bambus para futuras aplicações na indústria ainda é incipiente. O objetivo do trabalho foi avaliar as atividades antioxidante e antimicrobiana de extratos e frações de folhas e colmos de A. simplex McClure & Smith. Extratos brutos de folhas e colmos foram obtidos por percolação com etanol 60%, liofilizados, e fracionados com solventes de polaridade crescente. A capacidade antioxidante foi quantificada pelo método de redução do radical DPPH, sendo a fração clorofórmica dos colmos a que apresentou melhor atividade (IC50= 24,02 µg/mL). A atividade antimicrobiana foi determinada pelo método de microdiluição frente Escherichia coli (ATCC 8739), Staphylococcus aureus (ATCC 6538), Pseudomonas aeruginosa (ATCC 9027), Candida albicans (ATCC 10231) e Apergillus brasilensis (ATCC 16404). Os extratos brutos e frações de folhas e colmos de A. simplex apresentaram baixa atividade antimicrobiana com concentração inibitória mínima (CIM) > 1mg/mL para todos os micro-organismos. O efeito sinérgico dos extratos com parabenos foi realizado utilizando o delineamento experimental centroide simplex para uma mistura de metilparabeno, propilparabeno e extrato. As misturas foram testadas frente aos micro-organismos utilizados no ensaio de atividade antimicrobiana. O sinergismo foi observado em maior intensidade em S. aureus e C. albicans. Adicionalmente, os resultados da quantificação de flavonoides e compostos fenólicos totais sugeriram que o sinergismo entre esses compostos e os parabenos poderia ser responsável pela atividade antimicrobiana. / The replacing synthetic preservatives in cosmetics with natural products, is a tendency, research to investigate new natural antimicrobial compounds. Although Asian bamboo extracts have wide application in the cosmetics industry and are widely used in various formulations, Brazilian native species were not yet been investigated for future industrial applications. Thus, the purpose of this study was to evaluate the antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of extracts and fractions from A. simplex McClure & Smith leaves and culms. Crude leaf and culm extracts were obtained by percolation with 60% ethanol, lyophilized and fractionated with increasing polarity solvents. Antioxidant capacity was measured by the DPPH radical scavenging method in which the culm chloroform fraction presented the highest activity (IC50=24.02 µg/mL). Antimicrobial activity was determined by the microdilution method against Escherichia coli (ATCC 8739), Staphylococcus aureus (ATCC 6538), Pseudomonas aeruginosa (ATCC 9027), Candida albicans (ATCC 10231) and Apergillus brasiliensis (ATCC 16404). All the extracts and fractions from A. simplex showed low antimicrobial activity with Minimal Inhibitory Concentration (MIC) > 1 mg/mL for all microorganisms. The synergistic effect of the extracts mixed with methyl and propyl parabens was tested using a simplex centroid design. The mixtures were tested against the same microorganisms used for extracts evaluation. A stronger synergic effect was observed for S. aureus and C. albicans. Additionaly, the quantification results of flavonoids and total phenolic compounds suggested that the synergism among these compounds and the parabenos could be responsible for the antimicrobial activity.

Este trabalho discute o desenvolvimento de um algoritmo genético escrito em linguagem VBA para Excel e suas aplicações. O algoritmo elaborado foi utilizado em combinação com a técnica de FTIR-ATR para o desenvolvimento de metodologias aplicáveis na indústria cosmética e de saneantes, tais como a quantificação de surfactantes e bactericidas. Algumas modificações introduzidas no algoritmo foram estudadas através das aplicações selecionadas, destacando-se a introdução de técnicas de paralelismo que possibilitam a quantificação de mais de um analito em uma mesma execução do algoritmo. Este tipo de técnica foi aplicado na quantificação o-benzil p-cloro fenol, o-fenil fenol e etanol, em uma mistura dos três componentes, utilizada como matéria prima (bactericida) na indústria de saneantes. Também com o uso do algoritmo, FTIR-ATR e calibração linear múltipla, foram desenvolvidos métodos para determinação do ingrediente ativo total da mistura lauril sulfato de amônio/lauril éter sulfato de sódio em amostras de shampoo. Comparados aos métodos usuais de titulação, cromatografia líquida ou gasosa, os novos métodos se distinguem por não requererem preparo algum da mostra, nem consumirem solventes orgânicos, sendo mais rápidos e diretos, oferecendo exatidão comparável. / A genetic algorithm was implemented in VBA for Excel and applied in combination with FTIR-ATR to develop analytical methods for some raw materials and finished products of the home care and personal care industries, like the quantification of surfactants and bactericides. Some modifications were introduced in the traditional genetic algorithm and evaluated for the mentioned applications, with emphasis on parallelism techniques that extend the algorithm to the definition of methods for more than one analyte simultaneously. The parallelistic approach was used for the quantification of o-benzil p-chloro phenol, o-phenyl phenol and ethanol in a mixture of these three components (used as bactericides in home care products). Using the genetic algorithm, FTIR-ATR and multiple linear calibration it was also possible to develop methods to quantify the active ingredient of the ammonium lauryl sulfate/ammonium lauryl ether sulfate mixture (raw material for shampoos), and the concentration of sodium lauryl ether sulfate in commercial samples of shampoos. In comparison with usual methods of analysis, like titrations, gas chromatography or liquid chromatography, the new developed methods are faster and more direct, with comparable accuracy. Furthermore, they do not require any kind of sample pretreatment nor the use of organic solvents.