A exposição ao sol traz benefícios à saúde, no entanto, o excesso pode ocasionar danos cutâneos agudos e crônicos, dentre os quais se destacam as neoplasias. A fotoproteção é um método para a prevenção dos efeitos danosos da radiação ultravioleta (UV) e a biodiversidade Brasileira é campo fértil para as pesquisas nesta área. Dessa forma, os objetivos da presente pesquisa envolveram o desenvolvimento de formulações fotoprotetoras bioativas contendo rutina ou quercetina (compostos bioativos) e filtros solares físicos (dióxido de titânio e óxido de zinco); a caracterização das formulações por meio de ensaios físico (viscosidade aparente) e físico-químico (valor de pH); a determinação da eficácia fotoprotetora estimada por espectrofotometria de refletância difusa com esfera de integração; e a avaliação da estabilidade das preparações por meio do Teste de Estabilidade Normal (TEN). Na etapa do Desenvolvimento, a preparação composta por Dermabase® vegetal (10,0% p/p); sistema umectante (8,0% p/p); sistema emoliente (6,0% p/p); sistema quelante/antioxidante (0,6% p/p); sistema conservante (1,0% p/p); e água destilada recém destilada (74,4% p/p), foi selecionada como a formulação-base. As preparações contendo os compostos bioativos e ativos, isolados ou em associações, possuíram valores de pH biocompatíveis com o da pele, abrangendo o intervalo de 4,28 (5,0% p/p de rutina) a 7,58 (5,0% p/p de dióxido de titânio); aspecto de creme com intervalo de viscosidade aparente entre 12400 (5,0% p/p de óxido de zinco + 5,0% p/p de dióxido de titânio + 2,5% p/p de quercetina) e 31900 cP (5,0% p/p de óxido de zinco + 5,0% p/p de dióxido de titânio + 5,0% p/p de rutina); eficácia fotoprotetora estimada na faixa de fator de proteção solar (FPS) de 2,1 (2,5% p/p de quercetina) a 45,3 (5,0% p/p de óxido de zinco + 5,0% p/p de dióxido de titânio + 5,0% p/p de quercetina); e amplo espectro de proteção com valor mínimo de comprimento de onda crítico igual a 377 nm (5,0% p/p de óxido de zinco). Por meio do TEN, as preparações contendo os compostos bioativos e ativos isolados ou a associação dos filtros solares físicos se mantiveram estáveis para os parâmetros de aspecto, FPS estimado, comprimento de onda crítico, valor de pH e viscosidade aparente, nas condições de armazenamento de 22,0 ± 2,0 °C; 5,0 ± 2,0 °C - exceto para a viscosidade aparente - e 40,0 ± 2,0 °C (120 dias). As associações dos filtros físicos com os compostos bioativos se apresentaram instáveis. Apesar das respostas favoráveis que os flavonoides apreciaram, sugerirem-se que novas pesquisas poderiam ser conduzidas com a finalidade de contornar tais problemas, inclusive, realizando a comprovação da eficácia antissolar in vivo das preparações de melhor desempenho. / Exposition to sunlight promotes health benefits, however, its excess may cause acute and chronic cutaneous damages, including neoplasias. Photoprotection is a preventive approach against ultraviolet (UV) radiation deleterious effects and Brazilian biodiversity is an interesting field to the progress of researches in this science segment. The objectives of this research were the development of bioactive sunscreens containing rutin or quercetin (bioactive compounds) and inorganic UV filters (titanium dioxide and zinc oxide); the preparations\' physical (apparent viscosity) and physicochemical (pH value) characterization; the in vitro evaluation of the formulations\' photoprotective efficacy by diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry equipped with integrated sphere; and the sunscreens\' stability analysis by Normal Stability Testing (NST). The vehicle was developed with the following components: Dermabase® vegetal (10.0% w/w); humectant system (8.0% w/w); emollient system (6.0% w/w); antioxidant/chelating system (0.6% w/w); preservatives (1.0% w/w); and distilled water/aqua (74.4% w/w). Formulations containing the bioactive and the UV filters, isolated or in association, were skin biocompatible with interval of pH values from 4.28 (rutin 5.0% w/w) to 7.58 (titanium dioxide 5.0% w/w); apparent viscosity values of 12400 (zinc oxide 5.0% w/w + titanium dioxide 5.0% w/w + quercetin 2.5% w/w) to 31900 cP (zinc oxide 5.0% w/w + titanium dioxide 5.0% w/w + rutin 5.0% w/w); in vitro photoprotection activity by sun protection factor (SPF) ranging from 2.1 (quercetin 2.5% w/w) to 45.3 (zinc oxide 5.0% w/w + titanium dioxide 5.0% w/w + quercetin 5.0% w/w); and broad spectrum property with minimum critical wavelength of 377 nm (zinc oxide 5.0% w/w). By NST, sunscreens with isolated bioactive and active compounds or the UV filters\' association were considered stable during 120 days for the following parameters: aspect, in vitro SPF, critical wavelength, pH value and apparent viscosity when samples were stored at 22.0 ± 2.0 °C; 5.0 ± 2.0 °C (excluding apparent viscosity) and 40.0 ± 2.0 °C. Associations of UV filters with bioactive compounds were instable. Although the favorable results that flavonoids have achieved, it is suggested further researches aiming at to overcome the identified inconvenient, performing the in vivo SPF determination on best performance formulations to prove the estimated in vitro data.

Previous research has indicated an increasing trend toward elective cosmetic surgery to achieve a perceived ideal body image and meet psychological and social needs. However, there remains a gap in the literature regarding the number of procedures performed on a single patient, and the potential that patients may suffer from body dysmorphic disorder (BDD). Therefore, the purpose of this quantitative study was to examine the relationship between the number of cosmetic surgeries undergone, level of body dissatisfaction, level of dysmorphic concern, and preoccupation with appearance. Participants included 75 females and 55 males, ranging in age from 18 to 64 years. The majority of participants identified as Caucasian and resided in the United States. Most participants reported having two or three cosmetic surgeries. A multiple regression analysis was run to predict whether dysmorphic concern, body image concern, and/or BDD symptomology predict the number of cosmetic procedures undergone. The first significant finding was that body dissatisfaction, level of dysmorphic concern, and likelihood of BDD predict the number of cosmetic surgeries an individual chooses to undergo. The second significant finding was that the level of body image satisfaction-dissatisfaction as measured by the Body Image Ideal Questionnaire does predict the number of cosmetic procedures undergone. The results from this study provide support for the prerequisite of a psychological screening for cosmetic surgery and thus may contribute to positive social change for the cosmetic surgery community and its patients. Successful implementation of such a screening tool would contribute to social change, particularly for those candidates with diagnosed or undiagnosed mental health concerns.

Previous research on cosmetic surgery and teenage girls is limited and fails to provide information regarding how teenage girls construct these procedures. A social constructionist approach informed by a discursive psychology methodology was used to study how teenage girls and message board respondents construct cosmetic surgery through the language they use and the social actions performed through their talk. I analyzed questions posted by teenage girls between the ages of 13 to 19 on online message boards, as well as responses to these questions posted by other message board users. Social actions identified in the teenage girls talk included: advice and information seeking, approval seeking, and justification of cosmetic surgery. Social actions identified in the respondents talk included: provision of advice and information, warning, approval, disapproval, criticism and judgement, reassurance, empathy, encouragement, and support. In general, teenage girls constructed cosmetic surgery as a way for them to feel better about themselves, as a way for them to feel better about the body part they were seeking surgery for, and as a way for them to fit in and be accepted by others. The results of this study are discussed in relation to the existing research on teenage girls and cosmetic surgery, Daviss (1995) feminist perspective on cosmetic surgery, Fredrickson and Robertss (1997) objectification theory, and embodiment. Implications for teenage girls, parents of teenage girls, physicians, and psychologists are also discussed, and recommendations for future research are suggested.

Previous research on cosmetic surgery and teenage girls is limited and fails to provide information regarding how teenage girls construct these procedures. A social constructionist approach informed by a discursive psychology methodology was used to study how teenage girls and message board respondents construct cosmetic surgery through the language they use and the social actions performed through their talk. I analyzed questions posted by teenage girls between the ages of 13 to 19 on online message boards, as well as responses to these questions posted by other message board users. Social actions identified in the teenage girls talk included: advice and information seeking, approval seeking, and justification of cosmetic surgery. Social actions identified in the respondents talk included: provision of advice and information, warning, approval, disapproval, criticism and judgement, reassurance, empathy, encouragement, and support. In general, teenage girls constructed cosmetic surgery as a way for them to feel better about themselves, as a way for them to feel better about the body part they were seeking surgery for, and as a way for them to fit in and be accepted by others. The results of this study are discussed in relation to the existing research on teenage girls and cosmetic surgery, Daviss (1995) feminist perspective on cosmetic surgery, Fredrickson and Robertss (1997) objectification theory, and embodiment. Implications for teenage girls, parents of teenage girls, physicians, and psychologists are also discussed, and recommendations for future research are suggested.

Few bodies consistently portray natural or unaltered forms. Instead, humans inhabit bodies imbued with sociocultural meanings about what is attractive, appropriate, functional, and presentable. As such, embodiment is always gendered. The social, extra-corporeal body is a central locus for expressing gender. Surgical body modifications represent inherently gendered technologies of the body. But psychomedical institutions subject people who seek gender-crossing surgeries to increased surveillance, managing and regulating cross-gender embodiment as disorderly. Using mixed research methods, this research systematically compared transgender and cisgender (non-transgender) people’s experiences before, during, and after surgical body modification. I conducted a content analysis of 445 threads on a message board for an online cisgender surgery community, an analysis of 15 international protocols for transgender-specific surgeries, and 40 in-depth interviews with cisgender and transgender people who had surgery. The content analysis of the online community revealed similar themes among cisgender and transgender surgery users. However, detailed protocols existed only for transgender consumers of surgery. Interview findings showed that transgender and cisgender people reported similar presurgical feelings toward their bodies, similar cosmetic and psychological motivations for surgery, and similar benefits of surgery. For both cisgender and transgender people, surgery enhanced the inner self through improving the outer gendered body. Despite these similar embodied experiences, having a cisgender gender status determined respondents’ abilities to pursue surgery autonomously and with institutional support. Ultimately, this research highlights inequalities that result from gender status and manifest in psychomedical institutions by identifying the psychosocial impacts of provider/consumer or doctor/patient interactions, relating gendered embodiment to regulatory systems of authority, and illuminating policy implications for clinical practice and legal classifications of sex and gender.

Title: Purchasing Intentions of Young Thai Male towards Men's Skin Care Products Problem: Men concern more about their image than ever before. This behavior is becoming a new trend in cosmetic market. Moreover, Thailand is one of the fast growing cosmetics industry, particularly male skin care market within countries in Asia-Pacific region. However, most of the literatures have just studied on women cosmetic products. There are a few studies within male cosmetic market, despite the demands of cosmetic products are increasing among men as well as women. Purpose: This study aims to discuss the relationships between dimension of brand equity, overall brand equity, brand preference and purchase intention of men‟s skin care products among young Thai male in Bangkok. The study measures the equity of brand and identifies the impact of brand equity on brand preference and purchase intentions. Research Question: How does brand equity associate with purchasing intention of young Thai male towards skin care products? Method: Quantitative research method interpreted by the authors is applied in this research. A questionnaire-based survey is used as a tool to collect the data and the specific variables used in this paper: the dimension of brand equity, overall brand equity, brand preference, and purchase intention. Both primary and secondary types of data collection were used for this research. Conclusion: The results reveal that each dimension of brand equity, which consists of brand loyalty, brand awareness, brand association, and perceive quality have a significant impact on overall brand equity. However, brand loyalty and perceive quality have a bigger impact on brand equity than brand association and brand awareness. The impact of brand equity in itsIIconsequences supported the direct positive impact on brand preference and purchase intention. This predicate that brands with higher levels of brand equity would generate higher levels of customer brand preference. Moreover, the customers, who have high level of brand preference indicated that they have more willingness to continually purchase the specific men‟s skin care brand and this can build higher purchase intention. Last but not least, this current research also figure out that using celebrity may not be the most effective strategy to stimulate consumer purchasing intentions toward men‟s skin care product among young Thai males in Bangkok.

Cutaneous laser and intense pulsed light treatments are two of the most popular aesthetic treatment modalities. More and more physicians regardless of their training background are providing such profitable services because there is still no regulation on the cosmetic procedures a physician can perform. The purpose of the present study was to find out the relative strength and weakness of different medical specialties in providing laser and intense pulsed light treatment. Major decision factors for physician selection were extracted from 19 physician choice criteria with factor analysis. Using analytic hierarchy process, the relative weight of these factors and that of dermatologists, plastic surgeons and aesthetic practitioners in each factor were calculated. After reading the training curricula of dermatologists and plastic surgeons, respondents were asked to rate again the 3 medical specialties. Our results indicated that medical competence (0.3296) was the most important major decision factor followed by recommendation (0.2198), friendliness (0.1350), cost (0.1307), complete service (0.0984) and physical attribute of the physician (0.0865). Compared with plastic surgeons and aesthetic practitioners, dermatologists had an advantage in all factors except complete service, which was the strength of plastic surgeons. New patients, aged under 40, with a college degree and a monthly allowance less than 20000 NTD were more likely to change their rating in favor of dermatologists after reading the curriculum profile..

Problem: Research shows that it is crucial to acknowledge the information search step to understand consumer decision-making. Moreover, consumers‟ buying behavior is affected by their brand awareness. A problem is however that there exist a gap in previous research on understanding the consumers‟ actual behavior and why they choose certain platforms for their information gathering. Purpose: The purpose of the thesis is to get an understanding of consumers‟ information gathering process about cosmetic products and in turn to what extent that can create brand- awareness and attitudes. The thesis aims at filling the gap of truly understanding consumers inter-action in media and their behavior. The target audience to be stud-ied is young women, age 18-26, in the cosmetic industry. The inten-tion is to take an exploratory research view and to understand how this group of customers behave and also to describe why that is the reason. Methodology: To meet the purpose of the thesis, a qualitative research design was chosen since it allows the participants to express their opinions, re-flections and feelings as well as truly understanding the target in the way it enables deeper discussions. Three focus groups were con-ducted with young female consumers, and one in-depth interview was held with the partner company The Body Shop. The data was color-coded and presented separately in the result section, so that every participant‟s opinion was visible, before combining the results with theoretical reasoning in the analysis section. Conclusion: This study shows that young female consumers spend most of their information search on Instagram and Youtube since it is quick, fun and give inspiration, but they also value recommendations from friends. On all platforms they highly value a feeling of personal rela-tionships. Regarding brand- awareness and attitudes, it was found that brands are for the most part very important for the young fe-male consumers and they learn about brands both in their infor-mation search online and offline when talking to friends or visiting stores.

Background: E-commerce is an evolving market; the number of retailers and the growth in online shopping has built up a competitive market. It is therefore essential for companies to continuously develop their online activity to remain and attract new customers. To do so, companies need to create value for the customers and meet their demands: therefore it is of great importance for companies to understand consumers’ buying behavior, and moreover investigate in which factors are related to the consumers’ online purchase intention.   Purpose: The purpose is to explain the relationship between trust, perceived risk, shopping enjoyment, site design quality and online purchase intention.   Hypotheses: The authors of this study set up the following hypotheses: H1+: Trust is positively related to consumers’ online purchase intention. H2-: Perceived risk is negatively related to consumers’ online purchase intention. H3: Shopping enjoyment is related to consumers’ online purchase intention. H4+: Site design quality is positively related to consumers’ online purchase intention. Methodology: Survey study. Conclusion: Hypothesis 1 was supported in this study. Hypothesis 2 was not supported in this study. Hypothesis 3 was supported in this study. Hypothesis 4 was supported in this study.

While there is a long history of rhetorical studies that focus on oral and written discourses, the relatively recent trend of studying rhetorical images, materiality, and rhetorical bodies presents a shift toward an expanded perspective on what constitutes texts and what can be considered rhetorical. The study of bodies as rhetorical texts prompts the questions of how language is material and visual in nature. In my dissertation I examine the relationship between rhetoric and the body through Judith Butler's theories of materiality and performativity. Using Butler's theories of performance as a lens, I analyze the rhetoric of plastic and cosmetic surgery and demonstrate the role of performance in the perpetuation of and response to rhetoric of the body. Cosmetic and plastic surgery are performatives in that they not only confer a binding power on the action performed by altering the body through surgical and non-surgical means, but also initiate various citational practices within the field of medicine and in popular culture (through various mediums such as television, magazines, billboards, and websites). These procedures result in images and claims that authorize particular social expectations of beauty, youth, and sexuality.I examine a range of mass media texts related to cosmetic surgery (television shows, magazines, news clips, websites, and films) that portray different normative and deviant performativity of the body. In my research, I include interviews from volunteers in Los Angeles; my analysis involves local individuals' relationships to plastic and cosmetic surgery and their various body performatives in terms of normativity and agency. By comparing global and local perspectives, I argue that media sensationalizes the agent/victim binary in order to sell plastic and cosmetic surgeries, as well as related texts. The local stories serve to counter assumptions about the role of power in plastic surgery, revealing a far more complicated relationship between clients, rhetoric, and the reasons behind their surgeries; the agent/victim binary that is emphasized in mass media fails to capture lived experience and creates a detrimental rhetoric of empowerment.