A dissertation submitted to the Faculty of Science, University of the Witwatersrand, Johannesburg, in fulfilment of requirements for the degree of Master of Science. Johannesburg, 2015. / Ovahimba people from Kunene region, northern Namibia, are known for covering their bodies with red ochre mixed with clarified butterfat, traditionally known as otjize to give them a distinct red appearance. Ochre refers to a clay-like earth pigment which contains some form of iron-containing mineral. A mixture of traditional herbs with clarified butterfat, otjizumba, is also applied around the necks as a perfume. This study was prompted by ethnographic interviews amongst the Ovahimba people which revealed functional uses of the traditional cosmetics, specifically the red ochre-derived cosmetic, as a mosquito repellent. Several analytical techniques were used to determine the presence of mosquito repellent compounds in the red ochre- derived cosmetic and the aromatic plant derived-cosmetic. GC-MS was used to identify the presence of compounds which have previously been found to have mosquito repellent capabilities. GC-MS analysis identified mostly oxygenated compounds which include ketones (2-dodecanone, 2-nanonone, 2-undecanone and 2-tridecanone), aldehydes (heptanal and nonanal) and carboxylic acids (hexanoic acid and heptanoic acid) in dichloromethane extracts of otjize and mostly hydrocarbons (o-cymene, α-pinene, limonene, and squalene) and less oxygenated compounds (terpinen-4-ol and α-campholenal) in plant derived cosmetic extracts. The chemical composition of the cosmetics was also analyzed using FTIR. FTIR analysis for organics in both cosmetics showed presence of vibrational motions including O-H, C=O, C-H, C=C and C-C which affirmed the presence of organic functional groups including aldehydes, ketones, esters, alkenes and alkanes. Peak patterns observed using GC-FID showed that the mixture of red ochre and clarified butterfat released higher quantities of volatiles than when individual samples were analyzed. Mineralogical composition of red ochre was determined by PXRD, supported by FTIR which revealed as significant amount of hematite (Fe2O3), the primary mineral responsible for the red hue of the ochre. Other major minerals including quartz (SiO2), kaolinite (Al2(Si2O5)(OH)4, calcites (CaCO3) and chalconatronite(Na2Cu(CO3)2.3H2O) were found to be present in the ochre powder. Elemental analysis of the ochre determined using EDXRF and ICP-OES supported mineralogical composition as iii Ovahimba red ochre exhibited high content of iron (Fe) and silicon (Si) and a significant amount of aluminum (Al), calcium (Ca) and copper (Cu). Based on % weight, presence of transition metals in red ochre powder identified using ICP-OES was observed in the descending order; Fe> V> Cu> Au> Ti> Zr. Based on the analysis carried out in this study, it is suggested that red ochre provides catalytic role, due to its diverse metal content especially the presence of transition metals including Fe and Cu, which might be influencing the production of secondary products during autoxidation of fatty acids present in otjize, specifically ketones and aldehydes. It was also concluded that the composition of clarified butterfat could be attributed to the release of mosquito repellent compounds in the red ochre derived cosmetic because when animal fat (kudufat) was used as an organic binder, the mixture did not release any of the identified possible mosquito repellent compounds. Keywords: Aldehydes, autoxidation, clarified butterfat, fatty acids, ketones, mosquito repellents, and red ochre

No description available.

No description available.

O ácido ascórbico desempenha várias funções na pele como estímulo à síntese do colágeno, despigmentante cutâneo e ação antioxidante. Sua instabilidade química (oxidação), quando em contato com oxigênio, luz, temperaturas elevadas e metais dificultam sua incorporação em produtos cosméticos. Sendo assim, é importante a utilização de um sistema antioxidante efetivo. Os objetivos deste trabalho foram desenvolver formulações cosméticas (creme e gel fluido extemporâneo com ácido ascórbico) e avaliar sua estabilidade, utilizando a glutationa e o metabissulfito de sódio como antioxidantes, comparando com as formulações sem antioxidantes (controle). As amostras foram submetidas a três valores de temperaturas e avaliadas em intervalos de tempo pré-determinados quanto à estabilidade física, físico-química e química. Aquelas contendo glutationa ou metabissulfito de sódio mostraram-se mais estáveis do que as sem antioxidantes (controle), em todas as condições avaliadas, podendo ser utilizadas como alternativas na manipulação de produtos cosméticos contendo ácido ascórbico. / The ascorbic acid plays several functions in the skin as stimulate the synthesis of the collagen, normalize pigmentation of the skin and has an antioxidant action. It is chemically instable (oxidation) and, when in contact with oxygen, light, high temperatures and metals its incorporation in cosmetic products becomes difficult. So, the use of an effective antioxidant system is important. The objectives of this research were to develop cosmetic formulations (cream and extemporaneous fluid gel with ascorbic acid) and evaluate its stability, using glutathione and sodium metabisulfite as antioxidants, comparing them with formulations without these antioxidant substances (control). The samples were submitted to three different temperatures and evaluated according to determined intervals of time when the physical and chemical stability was observed. Those formulations with glutathione or sodium metabisulfite were considered more stable than the ones without antioxidant substances (control), in all the evaluation conditions. These formulations may be used as an alternative in the manipulation of cosmetic products with ascorbic acid.

by Ngai Wing-piu, Horace, Pok Tak-fai, Wilson. / Thesis (M.B.A.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 1991. / Bibliography: leaves 118-120. / Chapter 1.0 --- Introduction --- p.1 / Chapter 1.1 --- Motivation of Study --- p.1 / Chapter 1.2 --- Study Objective --- p.2 / Chapter 1.3 --- Method --- p.4 / Chapter 1.3.1 --- Phase One --- p.4 / Chapter 1.3.1.1 --- Questionnaire Design / Chapter 1.3.1.2 --- Sample Design / Chapter 1.3.1.3 --- Data Gathering / Chapter 1.3.2 --- Phase Two --- p.7 / Chapter 1.3.2.1 --- Focus Group Sessions / Chapter 1.3.2.2 --- Questionnaire Design / Chapter 1.3.2.3 --- Sample Design / Chapter 1.3.2.4 --- Data Gathering / Chapter 1.4 --- Limitations of the Study --- p.10 / Chapter 2.0 --- Overview of the cosmetics industry in the People's Republic of China --- p.12 / Chapter 2.1 --- History of cosmetic industry in PRC --- p.12 / Chapter 2.2 --- Environmental Analysis for the Cosmetics industry in Shanghai and Guangzhou --- p.13 / Chapter 2.2.1 --- Cultural & Economic Factors --- p.13 / Chapter 2.2.2 --- Government --- p.16 / Chapter 2.2.3 --- Customers --- p.19 / Chapter 2.2.4 --- Competitors --- p.21 / Chapter 3.0 --- Preliminary Study --- p.23 / Chapter 3.1 --- Literature Review --- p.23 / Chapter 3.2 --- Profile of the First Survey from Shanghai and Guangzhou --- p.26 / Chapter 3.2.1 --- Data Gathering --- p.26 / Chapter 3.2.2 --- Summary of the First Survey --- p.26 / Chapter 3.2.2.1 --- Demographic Summary / Chapter 3.2.2.2 --- Monthly Expenses on Cosmetic / Chapter 3.2.2.3 --- Overall Brand Awareness of Import & Joint-Venture-Made Cosmetics / Chapter 3.2.2.4 --- Media Effectiveness / Chapter 3.2.2.5 --- Categorization of the Cosmetic Products / Chapter 3.2.2.6 --- Consumption Level of Each Product Category / Chapter 3.2.2.7 --- Distribution Channel / Chapter 3.2.2.8 --- Brand Break-down of Skin Cream/Lotion Category Consumption / Chapter 3.2.2.9 --- Crosstabulation of Cosmetic Expenses by Occupation / Chapter 3.3 --- Conclusions --- p.40 / Chapter 4.0 --- In-depth Study --- p.42 / Chapter 4.1 --- Focus Group Session Summary --- p.44 / Chapter 4.2 --- Result of the Second Survey --- p.47 / Chapter 4.2.1 --- Survey Profile --- p.47 / Chapter 4.2.2 --- Consumer Awareness on Various Brands --- p.47 / Chapter 4.2.3 --- Consumption Pattern and Shopping Behavior --- p.51 / Chapter 4.2.3.1 --- Skin Cream/ Lotion Users and Non Users / Chapter 4.2.3.2 --- Consumption Pattern of Skin Cream/ Lotion / Chapter 4.2.3.3 --- Shopping Behavior / Chapter 4.2.4 --- Psychological Set of the Skin Cream/ Lotion Users --- p.59 / Chapter 4.2.4.1 --- Brand Loyalty and Brand Switching / Chapter 4.2.4.2 --- Communication within Groups / Chapter 4.2.4.3 --- Influence of Salesladies / Chapter 4.2.4.4 --- Effectiveness of Various Promotional Methods / Chapter 4.2.4.5 --- Relative Importance on Various Product Attributes / Chapter 4.2.5 --- Consumer Attitudes on Selected Brands --- p.69 / Chapter 4.2.5.1 --- Multiattribute Model for Brand Evaluation / Chapter 4.2.5.2 --- Products Positioning / Chapter 4.2.5.3 --- Intention to Buy / Chapter 4.2.6 --- Media Habits and Share of Voices for Various Brands --- p.77 / Chapter 4.2.6.1 --- Broadcasting Media / Chapter 4.2.6.2 --- Printed Media / Chapter 4.2.7 --- Conclusion --- p.83 / Chapter 5.0 --- Marketing Guidelines for Skin Cream/Lotion in PRC / Chapter 5.1 --- Market Segmentation and Product Positioning --- p.85 / Chapter 5.2 --- Pricing --- p.87 / Chapter 5.3 --- Promotion --- p.87 / Chapter 5.4 --- Distribution --- p.88 / Chapter 5.5 --- Optimal Mix --- p.88 / Chapter Appendix I --- Questionnaire of First Survey --- p.89 / Chapter Appendix IIA --- Questionnaire of Second Survey (English) --- p.95 / Chapter Appendix IIB --- Questionnaire of Second Survey (Chinese) --- p.106 / Chapter Appendix III --- Break Down of Other 8 Category Consumption --- p.113 / Chapter Appendix IVA --- Summary of Demographic Data of Participants --- p.115 / Chapter Appendix IVB --- Demographic Summary of Respondents --- p.116 / Chapter Appendix IVC --- Crosstubalation Industry by Nature of Job --- p.117 / Chapter Appendix V --- Bibliography --- p.118

by Chui Wai Chun and Carolina Susana de Assis. / Thesis (M.B.A.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 1988. / Bibliography: leaves 77-79.

by Lam Lai-Ming, Tai King-Chi. / Thesis (M.B.A.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 1996. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves [35-36]). / ABSTRACT --- p.ii / TABLE OF CONTENTS --- p.iii / ACKNOWLEDGMENTS --- p.v / Chapter I. --- INTRODUCTION --- p.1 / Overview of the Project --- p.1 / Industry Background --- p.1 / Customer --- p.2 / Objectives --- p.3 / Scope of Study --- p.3 / Definition of Terms --- p.5 / Organization of the Project --- p.6 / Summary --- p.6 / Chapter II. --- METHODOLOGY --- p.8 / Research Design --- p.8 / Exploratory Research --- p.8 / Literature Review --- p.9 / Company Interview --- p.9 / Observation --- p.9 / Descriptive Research --- p.10 / Field Work --- p.10 / Sampling --- p.10 / Questionnaire Design --- p.11 / Summary --- p.11 / Chapter III. --- COMPANY BACKGROUND --- p.13 / Setting the Foundation --- p.13 / Business Philosophies and Social Responsibility --- p.14 / Business Development --- p.16 / Marketing Objective of Setting the Hong Kong Counter --- p.17 / Summary --- p.18 / Chapter IV. --- THE ENVIRONMENT --- p.19 / Market and Competitors --- p.19 / Target Group --- p.20 / Summary --- p.21 / Chapter V. --- THE CURRENT MARKETING STRATEGIES --- p.22 / Product Strategy --- p.22 / Price Strategy --- p.23 / Communication Strategy --- p.24 / Endorsement of Celebrities --- p.24 / Services and Salesforce Strategy --- p.25 / Distribution Strategy --- p.26 / Summary --- p.27 / Chapter VI. --- DATA ANALYSIS AND INTERPRETATION --- p.28 / Interviewee Profile --- p.28 / About Color Cosmetic Users in General --- p.29 / Buyer Behavior and Brand Loyalty --- p.29 / Awareness Level Among Different Brands --- p.33 / About Those Who Know MAC --- p.35 / MAC Visitors --- p.35 / MAC Purchasers --- p.36 / Information Channels --- p.37 / Intention to Buy --- p.38 / Impression on MAC --- p.39 / Summary --- p.41 / Chapter VII. --- IMPLICATION OF FINDINGS --- p.43 / Low Loyalty --- p.43 / """Word-of-mouth""" --- p.43 / Criteria in Selecting the Shop and Making Purchase --- p.44 / Importance of Point of Purchase Material and Salesperson --- p.44 / Success Factors of MAC --- p.45 / Weaknesses of MAC --- p.45 / Conclusion --- p.46 / Chapter VIII. --- RECOMMENDATIONS --- p.47 / Product Strategy --- p.47 / Price Strategy --- p.49 / Communication Strategy --- p.49 / Services and Salesforce Strategy --- p.51 / Distribution Strategy --- p.51 / Summary --- p.52 / Chapter IX. --- LIMITATIONS --- p.54 / APPENDIX / BIBLIOGRAPHY

O ácido ascórbico desempenha várias funções na pele como estímulo à síntese do colágeno, despigmentante cutâneo e ação antioxidante. Sua instabilidade química (oxidação), quando em contato com oxigênio, luz, temperaturas elevadas e metais dificultam sua incorporação em produtos cosméticos. Sendo assim, é importante a utilização de um sistema antioxidante efetivo. Os objetivos deste trabalho foram desenvolver formulações cosméticas (creme e gel fluido extemporâneo com ácido ascórbico) e avaliar sua estabilidade, utilizando a glutationa e o metabissulfito de sódio como antioxidantes, comparando com as formulações sem antioxidantes (controle). As amostras foram submetidas a três valores de temperaturas e avaliadas em intervalos de tempo pré-determinados quanto à estabilidade física, físico-química e química. Aquelas contendo glutationa ou metabissulfito de sódio mostraram-se mais estáveis do que as sem antioxidantes (controle), em todas as condições avaliadas, podendo ser utilizadas como alternativas na manipulação de produtos cosméticos contendo ácido ascórbico. / The ascorbic acid plays several functions in the skin as stimulate the synthesis of the collagen, normalize pigmentation of the skin and has an antioxidant action. It is chemically instable (oxidation) and, when in contact with oxygen, light, high temperatures and metals its incorporation in cosmetic products becomes difficult. So, the use of an effective antioxidant system is important. The objectives of this research were to develop cosmetic formulations (cream and extemporaneous fluid gel with ascorbic acid) and evaluate its stability, using glutathione and sodium metabisulfite as antioxidants, comparing them with formulations without these antioxidant substances (control). The samples were submitted to three different temperatures and evaluated according to determined intervals of time when the physical and chemical stability was observed. Those formulations with glutathione or sodium metabisulfite were considered more stable than the ones without antioxidant substances (control), in all the evaluation conditions. These formulations may be used as an alternative in the manipulation of cosmetic products with ascorbic acid.

Magisterdisputats. / Format: PDF. Bibl.

Η παρούσα διπλωματική εργασία αποτελεί ερευνητική μελέτη στα καλλυντικά προϊόντα και του μίγματος μάρκετινγκ αυτών, καθώς και της καταναλωτικής συμπεριφοράς. Πρόκειται για μια περιγραφική ποσοτική έρευνα, η οποία διεξήχθη μέσω ερωτηματολογίων με δείγμα ποσοστών με αντιπροσώπευση ως προς το φύλο και την ηλικία με βάση τον πληθυσμό του Δήμου Πατρών. Αρχικά, περιλαμβάνει την εισαγωγή, όπου παρατίθενται ο σκοπός της έρευνας, ενώ ακολουθεί η χρησιμότητα του προβλήματος, η ακολουθητέα μέθοδος ανάλυσης και οι περιορισμοί και επιφυλάξεις της μελέτης. Στη συνέχεια αναπτύσσεται το θεωρητικό υπόβαθρο της ανάλυσης, με όλα εκείνα τα απαραίτητα στοιχεία της καταναλωτικής συμπεριφοράς, της στρατηγικής και του μίγματος μάρκετινγκ και πώς αυτά εφαρμόζονται στην περίπτωση των καλλυντικών προϊόντων. Ακολουθεί το ερευνητικό μέρος της εργασία, με αναλυτική ανάπτυξη της μεθοδολογίας έρευνας, παράθεση πινάκων , γραφημάτων και αποτελεσμάτων και λεπτομερή εξαγωγή συμπερασμάτων. Η ανάλυση πραγματοποιείται μέσω του στατιστικού πακέτου SPSS και περιλαμβάνει περιγραφική στατιστική ανάλυση και ανάλυση παραγόντων. Τέλος, ακολουθούν τα συμπεράσματα σε συνοπτική μορφή, ώστε να είναι κατανοητά και να δείχνουν ευκρινώς τις προτιμήσεις και το καταναλωτικό προφίλ του δείγματος που συμμετείχε στην έρευνα αυτή, ενώ αναπτύσσονται συνοπτικά κάποιες προτάσεις για άσκηση πολιτικής εκ μέρους των επιχειρήσεων και εταιρειών. Στο παράρτημα παρατίθεται αυτούσιο το ερωτηματολόγιο, στο οποίο βασίστηκε η παρούσα έρευνα. / This Master Thesis is a research project in the marketing mix of cosmetic products and consumer behaviour. In the beginning there is an introduction about the purpose of that research project, some basic definitions about the cosmetic products and the hurdles that we faced during the research in that field. The second chapter is about the theoritical background regarding the consumer behaviour, the strategy and the marketing mix of cosmetic products. The third chapter describes in detail the materials and the methods, which were used in that Master Thesis, and the results of this research. The last chapter shows the conclusions and the consumer profiles regarding the cosmetic products. Last but not least, there is included the original questionnaire, on which was based that thesis project.