The project 'Of Ghosts and [Wo]men' proposes an artificial landscape in the new area of Kiruna, that will be built exclusively from the materials of the demolished buildings. This is a way of displaying and giving back to the public pieces of the body of the old city, while suggesting an architecture that recycles the old into new forms and programs.Combining embroidery elements with data from the mining activity, the ground of the site is processed through the interrelationships of historical maps of the mine, engendering a series of forms that question not only these layers of the “under” city that remain unseen but also the meaning of the forms themselves. The proposed landscape consists of four distinct layers: the wooden main pathways, the platforms [plateaus] made of brick mosaic, the mounds made of sculpted earth and the storage-workshop composed of assemblages of different materials [concrete panels, glass, bricks].

This project combines industrial tuft with handmade embroidery in order to explore various combinations of textured surfaces, materials and colors. The purpose is to investigate a meeting between craft and design by focusing on the encounter between the compact and the loose, the assembly of materials, as well as variations in levels and heights. The works are mainly based on recycled materials. Three textiles pieces were designed: a First Piece focuses on the meeting between craft and design; the Second Piece relates to different textures and the Third Piece addresses growth. The combination of hand embroidery and tufting create diversity and nuances in expressions, forms and textures. The small-scale of hand-embroidery permits the use of materials difficult or impossible to handle in machines and thus break the monotony of tuft. Through the tufting technique, larger compact pieces are produced that have depth and are sound-absorbent. This project aims to create a bridge between craft and design in the field of textile design.

No description available.

No description available.

Šiame esė formos rašto darbe, keliauju simbolinę kelionę, kuri neturi aiškaus, konkretaus tikslo, nei uždavinių. Būtis, laikas, atmintis, praeitis, Dievas, gimimas, mirtis, laikinumas, amžinybė – padriki egzitenciniai klausimai, į kuriuos įsižiūriu, bet neatsakinėju. Vadovaujuosi fragmentiškais atminties žemėlapiais, menininkų kūriniais ir jų atsiradimo sąlygomis. Remiuosi fenomenologiniu metodu, kuris pagrįstas refleksija ir reikalauja pakartoti esmines intuicijas, siekia išugdyti dėmesingumą, leidžia naujai įprasminti, kaip ir ką mes išgyvename. Darbo skyrius žymiu dienoraštį primenančiais pavadinimais. Šis fragmentiškas dienoraštis – be pradžios ir be pabaigos (prasidėjęs labai seniai, pasibaigia sugrįžimu į pradžią). Jis tampa svarbia praktinio darbo dalimi, paaiškinimu. / In this work written as an essay, I make a symbolic trip which doesn‘t have a clear, precise goal nor aim. Existence, time, memory, past, God, birth, death, temporality, eternity – such are the unbound existential questions which I do look at but do not try to answer. I follow fragmented maps of memory, consider artists‘ creations and the conditions of their appearance. I base myself on phenomenological method which relies on reflection and demands to repeat the essential intuitions, asks to grow attentiveness, permits to give sense to what we experience and how we do it. I give titles to the parts of this work similar to personal diary titles. This fragmented diary is without beginning and without end (it started very long ago and it ends with returning to it‘s starting point). It becomes an important part of the practical work, it‘s explanation.

BODY ANAGRAM is a number of hand stitched sculptures, a growing collection of mountable body parts that can be organized and screwed together in different ways. The process of stitching and sculpting bodies is metaphorically compared to the art of anagrams, wordplays. Their common reversibility between recognition and destruction is discussed. Psychological perspectives on intersubjective, as well as subject-object relationships are used to explain what can happen when people and sculptures meet. How can common emotional experiences of relationships be embodied through human-like textile sculptures? This question is processed in video documentations of people interacting with the sewn body parts. These meetings as well as collaborations around the making of the film, “Your hands and their hands”, are explored further in this paper.

Over the years I have created many different images and explored a variety of media along my artistic journey. Similar images continue to occur in my work - images from my life as a child and as an adult in rural settings. I lived on a poultry farm and was involved in working with my parents there. When I married, my husband was a cattle farmer so I continued to live on a farm and use rural images in my work. Living in the country makes me constantly aware of the relationship between God, nature and man. I believe that we can find beauty in the most ordinary objects or places. My artwork is intended to help others find this beauty.

This thesis analyzes the structure, technique and iconography of an embroidered burial mantle from Wari Kayan Necropolis on the Paracas Peninsula, Peru, which dates between approximately 100 B.C. and A.D. 100. The mantle is currently in the collection of the American Museum of Natural History in New York City (Accession no. 41.2/632), and will be referred to subsequently as the AMNH mantle. This study will consist of a structural analysis of the burial mantle, addressing the design of the textile and the iconography. In addition to examining the origin and iconography of the double-headed bird motif which appears throughout the mantle, this study analyzes technical and design considerations involved in the creation of the mantle, including style of embroidery, structure, and color repeats. Ethnographic studies of Andean cultures will also be considered in the analysis of the symbolic and ritual aspects of textiles, and how they relate to the symbolic function of the mantle in its burial context.

Master of Science / Department of Apparel, Textiles, and Interior Design / Sherry J. Haar / This study was based on the concept of slow design, proposed after the slow food movement. The idea of slowing down production processes and increasing product quality and value suggests an antidote to the fast cycle of the fashion industry. Slow design supports two principals, inheriting tradition and maintaining eco-efficiency, which guided this project. Inheriting tradition is an expression that explores ways to sustain lost art and traditional heritage in our daily lives, as well as develop products that establish personal meaning for the consumer. Maintaining eco-efficiency of product production involves utilization of eco-friendly materials and sustainable approaches to aid in developing a healthier and cleaner ecosystem. The overall goal of this design research was to celebrate and sustain the spiritual and material civilization of the Chinese culture by creating a modern artistic interpretation of Chinese traditional arts using an environmentally conscious approach that was applicable to apparel design. This research created modern surface design on a group of garments from traditional Chinese Su Xiu embroidery, physical resist techniques, and natural dyes. This practice-based research utilized the paradigm of naturalistic inquiry to guide the stages of this project. A progressive design process was adopted in response to the unexpected events in the final artifact development. In the design exploration stage, a color library was created to provide the color story for the final artifacts. Basic Su Xiu embroidery stitches and traditional physical resist techniques were sampled with selected flosses and fabrics. Various samples were critiqued and analyzed to develop three unique techniques from characteristics of traditional Chinese Su Xiu embroidery, physical resist techniques (Zha Jiao, Feng Jiao, pole- wrapping, and Jia Xie), using natural dyeing techniques with woad and madder. Natural dye findings included using madder to overdye woad to adjust or reverse colors and that woad overpowered the effects of iron and acid premordants. The outcome resulted in a water-inspired series of three garments that showed evidence of simplified traditional techniques with reduced production time, energy, and dyeing material while encompassing elements of traditional art using a modern aesthetic. The designs and process were presented in a public exposition.

Entre 1528, date à laquelle François Ier promit à la municipalité parisienne le retour de la cour après plus d'un siècle d'exil dans le Val de Loire, et 1589, année de la mort de Henri III et du début du siège, l'industrie de la broderie connut un grand essor à Paris. Le luxe entretenu au sein de l'entourage royal permet d'expliquer la prospérité des ateliers des brodeurs de la capitale durant cette période. À partir de l'analyse de documents notariaux, judiciaires et comptables, et de l'examen approfondi des textiles conservés, cette thèse propose d'examiner le rôle joué par Paris dans la production et le commerce de broderies au XVIe siècle. Elle s'articule autour de trois axes. Le premier est consacré à l'étude du groupe des brodeurs royaux dont on a cherché à définir la nature des privilèges et des devoirs, le mode de recrutement et la place au sein de la cour. Le second vise à préciser les cadres d'exercice du métier à Paris et la manière dont s'organisaient les collaborations entre les brodeurs de cour et ceux de la ville à l'occasion des grands chantiers royaux. Enfin, un troisième axe est dédié à l'étude de la production parisienne dans toute sa diversité (ornements liturgiques, vêtements civils et militaires, broderies d'ameublement et de petits objets). Les indications fournies par les sources écrites sont confrontées aux pièces conservées pour tenter de reconstituer les processus de création, une attention particulière étant portée au rôle des peintres et, plus généralement, à la question des modèles dessinés et gravés. Ce travail a conduit à identifier un premier corpus d'œuvres qu'il est possible d'attribuer avec vraisemblance aux ateliers de la capitale. / Between 1528, when King Francis I of France announced that, after having been set in the Loire Valley for more than 100 years, the Court would be returning to Paris, and 1589, when King Henry III died and the « siège de Paris » begun, the embroidery industry expanded greatly. The luxury in which the Royal Family lived contributed to the prosperity of Parisian workshops. Nevertheless, Art History hasn’t yet explored the subject of 16th Century French embroidery in depth. Through an analysis of archival documents (notarial archives, court and accounting records), this research examines the role of Paris in the embroidery production and trade at that time. This study is developed around three axes. The first one explores the status of court embroiderers. The archival documents enable us to estimate their number and to determine which privileges, duties and benefits were associated with their work. The second axis focuses on the organization of the embroiderer's Guild in Paris and on the way collaborations were established between court embroiderers and the guild in order to support Royal commissions. Finally, the third axis deals with the Parisian production in all its diversity (ecclesiastical textiles, court and military costumes, furnishing, etc.). Information gathered in archival documents help us define the characteristics of Parisian embroideries, the process of creation of these objects, the role of painters and workshop practices. They are put in parallel with surviving textiles in order to elaborate a more complete picture of the art of Parisian embroiderers of the Sixteenth Century and to determine the techniques and materials used at the time in workshops.