Este trabalho tem como objetivo o estudo da readequação estratégica e operacional no segmento de nãotecidos, pertencente à terceira geração da cadeia petroquímica, frente à realidade global das consolidações por parte de fornecedores e clientes. Este setor caracterizase por ser intensivo em capital e possuir fluxos contínuos de produção com a geração intrínseca de resíduo como subproduto de seu processo produtivo. Baseando-se em referências sobre gestão da cadeia de suprimentos, estratégia e gestão de operações, realizou-se uma pesquisa-ação na empresa pioneira na produção de nãotecidos no Brasil após a instalação de novas plataformas, que adicionaram capacidade produtiva e qualidade técnica ao produto acabado. Este cenário demandou um estudo para a modificação das suas estratégias de mercado e operacional em determinados segmentos de negócios. Utilizando-se de registros da própria empresa, seus indicadores de desempenho tipo BSC, relatórios setoriais e informações técnicas dos equipamentos, estudaram-se as inter-relações de atributos dos produtos acabados, como cor, diâmetro e largura, com a geração de resíduo do processo produtivo para o delineamento da readequação estratégica e operacional. Concluiu-se que, as plataformas produtivas de tecnologia atualizada tendem a direcionar seus produtos para segmentos de mercado que apresentam alta rentabilidade. Também se conclui que em determinadas situações advindas das características das plataformas produtivas de nãotecidos, há a necessidade de alteração de mix de produção para a adequação do sistema produtivo frente a uma nova realidade de mercado. / This work aims the study of strategic and operational re-adequation in the nonwovens market, belonging to the third generation of the petrochemical supply chain, in the reality of global consolidation by suppliers and customers. This sector is characterized as capital intensive and has continuous flow production system, with the intrinsic generation of waste as a byproduct from its production process. Based on references of supply chain management, strategy and operations management, this study was developed at a Brazilian pioneer nonwoven production company after its installation of state-of-art production equipments, which added production capacity and technical quality to the finished good. This scenario required a study to change its strategy and operational marketing in certain business segments. Using company´s records, keys performance indicators (BSC type), sector reports and technical information about the equipments, we studied the interrelationships of finished products attributes, such as color, diameter and width, with the generation of waste production process for the design of strategic and operational alignment. We concluded that the production equipments with modern technology naturally drive their products to high profitability market segments. In certain situations, because of these equipments and the company's positioning in the market, there is a production mix change in order to suit the new reality of the production system.

Os geotêxteis não-tecidos desempenham, dentre outras funções, papel relevante na filtração e drenagem de solos. Nesta função, necessitam ter vazios suficientemente grandes para permitir a livre passagem de água e, ao mesmo tempo, vazios suficientemente pequenos para impedir o arraste de partículas, de sorte a evitar a erosão interna do solo. Critérios de dimensionamento para atender a ambos os requisitos estão disponíveis na literatura e são utilizados com sucesso há vários anos. Uma situação menos estudada e compreendida refere-se ao desempenho desses geotêxteis na filtração de água com sólidos em suspensão. Trata-se de uma situação tida como crítica, pela possibilidade de colmatação do geotêxtil por essas partículas, de acordo com diferentes mecanismos. Neste trabalho, verifica-se o desempenho, em laboratório, de geotêxteis não-tecidos frente à filtração de suspensões de solo em água, tal qual poderia ocorrer por ocasião de enxurradas. Nessa perspectiva, tenta-se verificar qual poderia ser o desempenho desses geotêxteis quando utilizados para compor sistemas de proteção da entrada de estruturas de captação de água, como bocas de lobo e bueiros. O trabalho utiliza um geotêxtil não tecido de fibras curtas, fabricado a partir de poliéster e suspensões contendo bentonita e uma areia fina argilosa, solo típico da região de São Carlos, em diferentes concentrações. Estabelecem-se correlações entre diferentes características e propriedades dos geotêxteis estudados e estuda-se o mecanismo de colmatação, que em geral ocorreu para todos os geotêxteis, em intervalos de tempo associados às características do geotêxtil e à concentração de solo na suspensão. As severas condições de colmatação observadas e o comprometimento da permeabilidade dos geotêxteis sugerem que para as concentrações de solo utilizadas, os geotêxteis não seriam capazes de cumprir com a proteção da entrada de estruturas de drenagem. / Nonwoven geotextiles play an important role in filtration and drainage of soils, among other functions. In these functions, they need to have large enough internal voids to allow free passage of water and at the same time these voids should be small enough to prevent the passing of particles and preventing piping formation or erosion of soil. Design criteria to satisfy both requirements are available in the literature and have been used successfully for many years. A topic that has not been deeply addressed refers to the performance of geotextiles on filtration of water with suspended solids since the possibility of geotextile clogging is real, impairing its behavior. In this work, the performance of nonwoven geotextiles in laboratory tests designed to observe the filtration of water containing solid particles in suspension is addressed. The tests were devised trying to understand what could be the performance of these geotextiles when used to compose inlet protection systems for drainage structures, such as culverts. The study used nonwoven short-fibers geotextile, made of polyester and suspensions containing bentonite and clayey fine sand, a typical soil of São Carlos area, Brazil, in different concentrations. The laboratory test results show that there exist correlations among different characteristics and properties of geotextiles studied and allowed to evaluate the mechanism of clogging, which generally occurred for all geotextiles, in time intervals associated to some characteristics of the geotextile and to the soil concentration in suspension. The severe clogging observed and the reduction of permeability of geotextile suggest that, for the solids concentration used, the geotextiles could not protect the entrance of drainage structures.

Les membranes et les adjuvants de filtration sont très utilisés pour la filtration des vins. Les adjuvants de filtration forment un dépôt filtrant assurant l’efficacité du filtre. Cependant ces particules ne sont pas régénérables. L’objectif de ces travaux est de proposer un media filtrant régénérable et disponible en plusieurs granulométries, afin d’être utilisé lors des différentes étapes de l’élaboration des vins. Les Rilsan® en polyamide 11 biosourcé sont étudiés et caractérisés en tant qu’alternative aux diatomites. Les résultats montrent qu’avec la gamme de Rilsan® existante il est possible d’obtenir les différents grades nécessaires pour la filtration du vin. Les distributions de tailles de particules, la formation des dépôts ainsi que les efficacités de filtration ont été déterminées. Lors de la filtration sur précouche de Rilsan® les mécanismes de rétention suivent une loi de colmatage intermédiaire des pores. Du fait de la structure non poreuse du matériau par rapport aux diatomites, leur régénération est possible et a été étudiée par hydrocyclonage. Les non-tissés ont l’avantage d’avoir de très fortes porosités ; ce qui est un atout pour obtenir des débits de filtration importants. De nouveaux media en polyamide 11 fabriqués par Electrospinning sont testés comme une alternative aux membranes actuelles, de plus faible porosité. Les diamètres de pores obtenus de l’ordre de 1,5 μm sont encore trop élevés pour envisager une stabilisation microbiologique du vin. La faible résistance mécanique des media est un frein à leur développement pour la filtration des liquides. Les perméabilités sont peu dépendantes de la dimension des pores dans la gamme testée et dépendent principalement de l’épaisseur du matériau et d’autres paramètres de fabrication. / Membranes and filter aids are classically used filter media throughout the wine making process. During filtration, filter aids form a precoat inducing the retention efficiency of the filter. However, these particles are not regenerable. The aim of this study is to find a cleanable and reusable alternative to existing filter aids, available in various grain-size distributions, in order to perform the different types of wine filtration. The Rilsan® powder, made of biobased polyamide 11, are characterized and studied as an alternative to diatomaceous earth mainly used for enology applications. Results showed that the range of Rilsan® allowed performing both rough and clarifying filtration. The particle size distribution, the granular bed deposition and the filtration efficiency were determined. During filtration using Rilsan® precoat, the fouling mechanisms follow an intermediate pore blocking law. According to their non-porous structure compared to diatomite, these particles are cleanable. Hydrocyclone process is studied in order to achieve this regeneration. Nonwovens have important porosities which is an asset to have high filtration flow rates. New filter media made by electrospinning process of polyamide 11 are tested as an alternative to currently used filtration membranes. The pore diameters measured of 1.5 μm are still too large to be used for wine microbiological stabilization. Their mechanical weakness is a brake to their use in liquid filtration applications. Water permeability is little influenced by the pore size, in the range of media tested, and depends mainly on the thickness of the media and other fabrication processes.

Sammanfattning I denna rapporten har en innovativ metod framtagits för att tillvarata textilt avfall. Fokus för projektet har legat mycket på praktiska framställningen. Fibrer som inte är spinnbara och inte längre har någon valutavärde återupplivas och får ett nytt liv. Istället för att slänga textilier till förbränning har det i arbetet presenteras en ny metod genom nonwoven som bidrar till återanvändning och materialåtervinning av textilier. Fler fördelar för metoden är att det går fort, det är billigt och återvunna material används. Konceptet är att producera ospunnet garn från nonwoven för att slutligen använda dessa i mattor som applikationsområde. Produktionen av nonwovengarn är en ny idé som behöver bli testad för att bestämma produktionsparametrarna för optimala garner.  Praktiska framtagningen genomgår processerna, öppning, kardning, sträckning,  mekanisk nålning, termisk värmning, tillskärning av garn och vävning. Vid start av projektet testades produktion av nonwovens genom olika metoder för 50/50 bomull/polyester, med enbart mekanisk nålning, med bara termisk värmning och en kombination av mekaniskt och termisk. Resultatet för att erhålla bästa kvalité för nonwovengarn var genom att använda sig av både nålning för att producera nonwovenremsor och värmning för att göra strukturen mer sammanhållen.  Det innebär att bindningsmaterial kommer bli en betydande faktor. För att undersöka de mekaniska egenskaperna för procentuella bindningsmaterialets effekt producerades nonwovenremsor i 75/25, 50/50, 25/75 bomull/polyester. Vid värmning användes temperatur i 170 ºC i 10 min, 170 ºC i 5 min och 160 ºC i 10 min. Produktion av 9 olika garntyper för att vid dragprovning analysera vilka parametrar som passar bäst till slutgiltiga garnet. Från testet visade graferna för brott och brott/tex ett tydligt svar, blandningen 50/50 bomull/polyester med termisk värmning 170 ºC i 5 min ger bäst resultat i de mekaniska egenskaperna.  Slutligen producerades garner utifrån parametrarna från dragprovningen. Garner av 50% bindningsmaterial med 170 ºC i 5 min framställdes för fibrer som är återvunna och inte längre kan spinnas. 50/50 återvunnen bomull/polyester och 50/50 avfallsfibrer/polyester samt en blandning av 50/50 återvunnen bomull med 50/50 avfallsfibrer/polyester sammanbundna i nålningsprocessen.  Slutsater från metoden har visat vara genomförbart och slut resultaten för mattan har blivit överförväntan. Konceptet har öppnat upp fler dörrar och framtida idéer till möjligheter till användningsområden för nonwovengarn, mattan är en av få produktionsområde. Projektet kan bli stort i framtiden och förhoppningvis har det en positiv påverkan som leder till mindre textilavfall.

There is an increasing demand for natural fibres in the textile industry as a consequence of the negative impact of the industry on the environment. Svensk Hampaindustri (SHI) is currently growing hemp in Sweden for its seeds. This leaves residue in the form of hemp stems that could be processed for textile products. Today this residue material is not used for anything, however there is a desire that it could be used for added value. This study investigates the possibility of extracting fibres from the hemp residue mechanically and using them in applications. Hemp, a variety of Cannabis sativa L., is a multipurpose low-input crop cultivated for its seeds, fibres and hurds. Hemp fibre is a bast fibre, derived from the plant’s outer stem tissues. To extract hemp fibres from hemp stems, the first step is to separate the fibre bundles from the other, non-fibrous parts of the stem. This process is done using various mechanical methods. In order to ease the separation, hemp stems are retted. Retting is a biological process that uses enzymatic activities to degrade the pectins and thus making the separation easier. Retting is one of the most considerable challenges towards a wider use of hemp fibres. Water retting offers high fibre-quality but consumes high amounts of water and causes effluents in the wastewater. Dew retting offers a high fibre yield and low labour costs but will result in a lower fibre-quality. Alternative methods that can contribute with a more consistent fibre yield and quality are available, but with an economic uncertainty for the farmers that limits the competitiveness of the hemp fibre. The hemp material provided by SHI was unretted and needed to be broken down by means of mechanical processing in order to extract the fibres. This was done using a domestic blender. The crushed material was then carded using a hand carding machine to achieve oriented and clean fibres. The obtained fibres were then evaluated for their length and fineness. Three different types of nonwoven were made using the hemp fibres: NW1, NW2 and NW3. NW1 consists of 100% hemp, whereas NW2 and NW3 are 80/20 blends of hemp and PLA. NW1 was needle punched, NW2 was thermally bonded and NW3 was manufactured by both thermal bonding and needle punching. The produced nonwovens were evaluated by their air permeability, thermal conductivity, sound absorption, drapability and tensile strength. The results from the study showed that it is possible to extract unretted fibres using mechanical methods. The fibres are quite coarse and therefore more suitable for industrial applications. The different production methods for the nonwovens gave different results which supports the diversity of hemp applications. This study suggests that the residue should be used rather than be disposed of.

Idag är den största delen av textilierna antingen olje-(60 %) eller bomullsbaserade (30 %). Det är enbart en liten del som är baserade på träfibrer. Ett ökande behov av förnyelsebara textilier föreligger. Samtidigt är ett minskade pappersbehov en drivkraft till att använda de existerande pappersmaskinerna till att tillverka icke vävda textilliknande material. Till skillnad från vävda material kan materialet tillverkas direkt istället för att först tillverka trådar från fibrer. Möjligheter att ta fram textillika material av cellulosafibrer undersöktes. Dynamiska ark gjorda av en blandning av barrmassa och en blandning av barr- och lövmassa med 0, 55 och 70 vikt% polymjölksyra, PLA, tillverkades. Arken pressades ihop två och två med ett mellanlager av Expancel mikrosfärer och bindemedel. Mowilith DM 105 och Primal LT-2949 Emulsion användes som bindemedel. En jämförelse gjordes med ark med enbart bindemedel som mellanlager.   En subjektiv utvärdering av vilket förhållande mellan Expancel mikrosfärer och bindemedel som var bäst lämpad gjordes. För utvärderingen ytbehandlades ett standard papper med 70 vikt% PLA. Den sats med högst koncentration av Expancel mikrosfärer som band bra till bindemedelet valdes. Draghållfastheten testades genom dragprovning enligt ISO 1924-2:1994 men med endast 5 prover istället för 10.  Dragprovningen visade att tillsatsen av Expancel mikrosfärer ökade töjningen hos materialet. Materialen med högst koncentration av PLA gav den mjukaste känslan men också lägst styrka. / Today the main parts of textiles are either oil (60 %) or cotton based (30 %). It is only a small portion which is based on wood fibres. An increasing demand of renewable textiles is forthcoming. At the same time a decreasing demand of paper is one of the motivation of using the existing paper machines to produce nonwoven textile-like materials. Unlike woven fabrics the fabric can be manufactured directly rather than first producing yarn from fibres. Possibilities of developing a textile-like material of cellulose fibres were investigated. Dynamic lab sheets made of a mix of softwood pulp and a mix of softwood and birch pulp with 0, 55 and 70 weight % Poly(lactic acid), PLA, were manufactured. The sheets was pressed together two and two with a middle layer of Expancel microspheres and binder. Mowilith DM 105 and Primal LT-2949 emulsion were used as binders. A comparison was made between sheets with only binder as the middle layer.   A subjective evaluation of which ratio between Expancel microspheres and binder material was best suited was made. For the evaluation a paper containing 70 weight% PLA was coated. The batch with highest concentration of Expancel microspheres, which bonded well to the binder, was chosen. The tensile strength was measured according to ISO 1924-2:1994 but with only 5 test samples instead of 10. The tensile tests showed that with Expancel microspheres resulted in increase of elongation of the material. The materials with the highest concentration of PLA had softest feeling but also lowest strength.

This degree work positions itself in the field of textile design, more specifically in non-woven, color blending, felting, and interaction. The work explores different techniques such as mechanical felting with needle punch, wet felting to manipulate forms, and carding, with a focus on color blending. The aimis to explore the design possibilities in non-woven wool in regards to color blending color gradients. The motivation for the project is to bring textile design into a wider context, and to investigate how the combination of blending colored fibers and felting techniques can create double-sided textiles. Through a hands-on method, explorations were carried out using two textile techniques; Color blending and needle punching. Loose wool fibers were dyed in the three primary colors, then carded into a range of saturated colors, which gave a rich color library to work further on with. Wet felting was used to bond, create non-woven material and make 3-dimensional forms. The result is three pieces in 100% non-woven wool with different color gradients which encourage interaction. The conclusion is that it is possible to work with an alternative color blending method (wool carding) in non-woven in order to create color gradations. The project shows that the field of textile design is expanded by pushing the boundaries of how a textile designer can work with these techniques.

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Thermomechanically bonded spunbond nonwoven fabrics contain discrete bonds that are formed by melted and fused fibers. Through equi-biaxial tensile testing and simultaneous image capture, the mechanical response of individual bonds was studied through loading in the preferential fiber direction, the machine direction, and in the direction that is perpendicular, the cross direction, of the fabric web. Independent biaxial force and displacement data were collected and analyzed, and the maximum force and stiffness of the bonds in the machine and cross directions were found to be statistically different. After scaling the maximum force and stiffness by a relative basis weight parameter, a fiber orientation parameter, and the width of the bond itself, the peak force and stiffness in the machine and cross directions were found to no longer be statistically different. This indicates that basis weight, fiber orientation, and bond size dictate the biaxial mechanical behavior of the bonds. Furthermore, significant fiber debonding was observed in all the bonds tested, effectively suggesting bond disintegration into the individual component fibers during testing. Digital image correlation, using the captured images, was utilized to calculate local and average Eulerian strains of the bond during the initial stages of the test. The strain experienced by the bonds in the machine direction was always positive and increasing as the biaxial load increased. The strain in the cross direction, however, experienced increasing and decreasing strain. Local strain maps revealed the highly inhomogeneous strain response of the bonds under biaxial loading. / Master of Science / For numerous industrial and consumer applications, such as the medical, automotive, packaging, and consumer goods, nonwoven fabrics are often thermomechanically bonded at discrete bond locations in patterns appropriate for the intended use. To produce the nonwoven, fibers are extruded onto a belt and the mat of fibers is passed through a calendar roll to form the thermomechanical bonds. As the fibers move on the belt, there is a preferential fiber direction parallel to the belt. Mechanical biaxial tensile tests were performed on nonwoven sheets in order to gain insight into the response parallel and perpendicular to the preferential fiber direction. Force and displacement data were collected and the maximum force and stiffness response parallel to the preferential fiber direction were found to be significantly higher than perpendicular to the preferential fiber direction. Strain measurements were also performed to examine the local strain of the bonds. Knowledge of the biaxial tensile behavior of bonds in nonwovens allows manufacturers to make informed decisions about the ultimate final application of the nonwoven.