O conceito de manufatura enxuta está sendo considerado mais e mais um novo paradigma para um número grande de empresas no mundo. Original da indústria automobilística, o conceito produção enxuta tem sido espalhado para todos os tipos de indústrias. Este trabalho apresenta uma implementação do sistema de produção enxuta em uma indústria calçadista. Tem como objetivo maior apresentar a aplicação dos conceitos de um sistema de formação de células no setor de costura. A criação destas células é vital porque a maioria das atividades são operações intensivamente manuais e células promovem a oportunidade para uma melhor utilização do operário no balanceamento e padronização das operações. As células também permitem uma melhor utilização do espaço e menor estoque intermediário. Um grande desafio para esta atividade é a alta variedade de produtos com alta variedade de seqüências nas operações de costura. Logo, este trabalho apresenta um levantamento bibliográfico, fazendo uma caracterização sobre evoluções dos sistemas de administração da produção salientando a importância do sistema de produção enxuta, bem como conceitos básicos de layout e manufatura celular, apresentando neste contexto sua relevância e medidas utilizadas nas empresas para tomada de decisões e ações. Apresenta também um método para a formação de células em empresas deste setor, desenvolvido através de pesquisa-ação. Além disso, é apresentado um caso real de implantação deste método em uma empresa de calçados esportivos e são discutidos os resultados obtidos. / The concept of lean manufacturing is being considered more and more a new paradigma for a number of companies worldwide. Originally from the automotive industry, the concept of lean production has been spread to all types of industry. This work presents an implementation of the lean production system in a shoe industry. Its main purpose is to present the application of the concepts of this system to the cell formation in the sewing sector. The creation of these cells is vital because most of the operations are intensely manual and cells provide the opportunity for a better use of the worker in the balancing and standardization of the operations. Cells also allow a better use of the space and less work in process. A great challenge for this activity is the high variety of products with high variety of sequences in the operations of sewing. Therefore, the study presents a research on the evolution of the production administration system showing the importance of the lean production system, as well as basic concepts of layout and cellular manufacturing, presenting in this context its relevance and the performance measurements used in industries for the decision making and actions. It also presents a method to the cell formation in shoe industries, developed from an action-research. It is presented a real case of implementation of this method in a sportive shoe industry and discussed its results.

The regional and local development in many Brazilian cities and especially in the Northeast from the 1990s, was based on tax incentives that did not take into account the aspects of identity and culture with the potential of these places, with the argument of persuasion generation employment and income for localities more humble. Given this scenario was implemented in the 2000s in the municipality of Frei Paulo (SE) the footwear industry "Vulcabrás Azaleia", which generates significant direct jobs and contributes substantially to socioeconomic changes of the city, but out of sync with the prevailing theme of local development and also to sustainable development. Thus this paper aims to examine sustainability from the perspective of local development in the municipality of Frei Paulo (SE) checking the proportionate influences from the footwear industry. This is an investigation of descriptive and explanatory character of quantitative and qualitative nature, data were collected by means of semi-structured questionnaire with open and closed questions, applied to the actors involved in the municipal context. The study concluded that there was job creation and which substantially increased the purchasing power of the population and therefore GDP growth of the city with a better distribution of income to the population through the HDI. Finally it is shown that the actors involved in the county in its entirety unaware of environmental responsibility actions performed by the footwear industry in favor of the locality, but also understand little or nothing of the issues involving sustainable development and local development / O desenvolvimento regional e local em diversos municípios brasileiros e principalmente na região Nordeste a partir da década de 1990, teve como base incentivos fiscais que não levaram em consideração os aspectos de identidade com as potencialidades e cultura destas localidades, tendo como argumento de persuasão a geração de emprego e renda para localidades mais humildes. Diante deste cenário foi implantada na primeira década de 2000 no município de Frei Paulo (SE) a indústria calçadista Vulcabrás Azaleia , a qual gera significativos empregos diretos e que contribui substancialmente para mudanças socioeconômicas da cidade, mas sem sincronia com a temática vigente de desenvolvimento local e também com o desenvolvimento sustentável. Sendo assim este trabalho tem como objetivo analisar sob a perspectiva da sustentabilidade o desenvolvimento local do município de Frei Paulo (SE) verificando as influências proporcionadas a partir da indústria calçadista. Trata-se de uma investigação do tipo descritivo de caráter explicativo e de natureza quanti-qualitativa, os dados foram coletados mediante aplicação de questionário semi-estruturado com questões abertas e fechadas, aplicados aos atores envolvidos no contexto municipal. O estudo concluiu que houve geração de empregos e que aumentou substancialmente o poder aquisitivo da população e consequentemente aumento do PIB do município com uma melhor distribuição de renda para população, através do IDH. Por fim é demonstrado que os atores envolvidos no município desconhecem em sua totalidade ações de responsabilidade socioambiental realizada pela indústria calçadista em favor da localidade, como também pouco ou nada entendem dos aspectos que envolvem o desenvolvimento sustentável e o desenvolvimento local

Made available in DSpace on 2016-03-15T19:26:35Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Lilian Soares Pereira Carvalho.pdf: 681951 bytes, checksum: e6a0996b3e4a3acf7ac785ec47a4b767 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2008-01-28 / Fundo Mackenzie de Pesquisa / Zylbersztajn (2005) declares that Transaction Cost Economics still lacks in formalization and empirical studies. It is this void that this work intends to fill. It is an empirical study about transaction costs, in particular their influence over the sustainability of the Jaú shoe industry cluster. It seeked to investigate one type of contractual relationship between firms: the cluster. Many authors, such as Cassiolato and Lastres (2003), consider clusters as a concentration of firms in the same place. According to Becattini (1999), the cluster is not only a concentration of firms in the same place, but it is in reality a network of companies connected to one another. Thus, the study of clusters can be included under the scope of Transaction Cost Economics: considering clusters as networks, the degree of companies´ coordination can be investigated as well as how transaction dimensions are stablished between these agents. According to Becattini (1999) the ties stablished between cluster companies, ties of competition and cooperation, lower transaction costs and make companies more competitive. Hence, this work wants to answer the following question: how transaction dimensions influence transaction costs in the cluster and can they explain the cluster sustainability? The research object was the Jaú shoe industry cluster, and this study used the qualitative case study method. In the course of the study, interviews with the cluster agents were carried out, as well as direct observations during the fieldwork visits and the analysis of secondary data, that came from document analysis and newspaper articles, previous studies made for BNDES and previous academic research. These data were analysed using the content analysis technique. Through the analysis of the data collected it became clear that the frequency of transactions between the cluster´s companies is intense, and the uncertainty is low due to the extensive sharing of information. Moreover, human specificity and site specificity are core factors, in the perception of the agents interviewed, for the sustainability of the Jaú cluster. / Zylbersztajn (2005) argumenta que a Economia dos Custos de Transação ainda carece de formalização e de testes empíricos. É nesta lacuna que este trabalho busca posicionar-se. Ele é um estudo empírico sobre os custos de transação, em particular sua influência sobre a sustentabilidade do aglomerado calçadista de Jaú. Buscou-se investigar uma variedade contratual de relações entre empresas: o aglomerado. Muitos autores, como Cassiolato e Lastres (2003), tratam o aglomerado como uma concentração de empresas da mesma cadeia produtiva na mesma localidade. Para Becattini (1999), o aglomerado não é só uma concentração de empresas na mesma localidade, mas configura-se em uma rede de empresas ligadas umas às outras. Dessa forma, pode-se incluir o estudo de aglomerados sob o escopo da Economia dos Custos de Transação: tratando o aglomerado como uma rede de empresas, pode-se investigar o grau de coordenação das empresas participantes e como as dimensões das transações são estabelecidas entre estes agentes. Segundo Becattini (1999) os laços estabelecidos entre as empresas, de competição e de cooperação, diminuem os custos de transação e as tornam mais competitivas. Para tanto, o trabalho aqui proposto busca responder a seguinte questão: como as dimensões das transações influenciam os custos de transação em um aglomerado e estes podem explicar sua sustentabilidade? O objeto pesquisado foi o aglomerado calçadista de Jaú, mediante o método de estudo de caso qualitativo exploratório. Foram realizadas entrevistas com os agentes do aglomerado, a observação direta durante as visitas a campo e a consultas aos dados secundários, advindos da análise documental e de fontes como jornais, estudos setoriais efetuados pelo BNDES e também estudos acadêmicos anteriores. Estes dados foram analisados mediante a técnica de análise de conteúdo buscando identificar em categorias de análise cada um dos discursos dos entrevistados em relação às categorias propostas. Pela análise dos dados coletados, pôde-se perceber a intensa freqüência das transações entre as empresas, a baixa incerteza devido à extensiva troca de informações entre os agentes e configuram-se, na percepção dos entrevistados, a especificidade de ativos humanos e a especificidade locacional como fatores preponderantes da sustentabilidade do aglomerado calçadista de Jaú.

This diploma thesis describes the expansion of the Czechoslovak Bata shoe company to India. A foundation stone of Batanagar, Bat'a's city, was laid near Calcutta on October 28, 1934. Since then, the community of Czechoslovak expatriates evolved to an almost self-sufficient city known throughout Bengal and India. Because the majority of employees were Indians, there was a lively cultural contact between them and the Czech expatriates. The main part of the thesis focuses on the description of the common life of the Czechoslovakians in Batanagar - Bat'a's employees sent from Zlín during the period from 1934 to 1950. In India, many Czechoslovakian children grew up in this international environment, because women or the extended family of Czechoslovakian men later followed them here. New couples also celebrated their weddings in Batanagar. Due to the outbreak of World War II, Bat'a's employees did not return home for many years, and from India they organized their own resistance activities.

Content: Leather manufacturing involves discharge of large quantities of solid and liquid wastes. While efficient recycling methods and in-plant controls have considerably reduced the discharge of obnoxious liquid streams, satisfactory methods to the solid waste management still elude the leather manufacturers. Landfilling is an easy option for the disposal of solid wastes like chrome shavings and trimmings, but is subjected to stringent environmental regulations because of the presence of chromium in these materials. Considerable efforts have been made to recycle the chrome containing wastes by methods such as incineration, pyrolysis and alkaline or enzyme hydrolysis. These recycling processes, however, are seldom complete without further environmental problems. Unfortunately, in such recycling processes the inherent fibrous structure of these materials gets completely destroyed. Applications based on the fibrous nature of the shavings and trimmings are presently limited but various possibilities are being explored continuously. An efficient way of utilization of these fibrous waste materials may be to combine them in a suitable form with synthetic polymers to give composite materials. Short fiber reinforcement of polymers is an important area in polymer composites where both synthetic and natural fibers are effectively used. Footwear has become a basic necessity like food, shelter and clothes. Soles are bottom components of footwear and some important polymeric materials used in footwear fabrication are last, soles and Insoles. This research aims at reducing the solid waste (Chrome shavings) generated by leather industry and reusing them as low cost shoe components such as soles and insole material. In this research, the footwear components were prepared using chrome shaving (tannery solid waste), EPDM (ethylene propylene monomer rubber) and isoprene rubber with different inorganic oxide/hydroxide nano particle based fillers. In this study, soles are prepared by using strap cutting machine, two roll mill and compression moulding machine. The soling materials made characterised using FT-IR and SEM and tested for mechanical properties. Due to good mutual compatibility between Isoprene, EPDM and leather fibre with inorganic nano clay based fillers, the composites are well in terms of all the physic-mechanical behaviours like hardness, density, abrasion resistance and grain crack suitable for shoe sole application. Take-Away: 1. Ethylene propylene monomer rubber and leather fibre with inorganic nano clay based fillers, the composites are well in terms of all the physic-mechanical behaviours like hardness, density, abrasion resistance and grain crack suitable for shoe sole application. 2. An efficient way of utilization of these fibrous waste materials may be to combine them in a suitable form with synthetic polymers to give composite materials. Short fiber reinforcement of polymers is an important area in polymer composites where both synthetic and natural fibers are effectively used.

De nos jours, la plupart des fabriquants de chaussures proposent des chaussures pour les jeunes joueurs de tennis qui sont des modèles réduits de celles des adultes. Cependant, les enfants ne sont pas des adultes-miniatures et ont des besoins spécifiques. Entre 8 et 12 ans, les enfants sont sujets à des poussées de croissance qui diminuent la flexibilité du membre inférieur et augmentent les forces de tension sur les sites d’insertions des tendons sur les os. De plus, la pratique du tennis à haute intensité, avec la répétition d’accélérations et décélérations, place d’importantes forces de tension au niveau de l’insertion du tendon d’Achille sur le calcaneus et d’importantes forces de compression sous le calcaneus. La combinaison de ces 2 facteurs augmente le risque de subir l’une des principales blessures de sursollicitaton chez les enfants : la maladie de Sever. Par conséquent, l’objectif de ce travail de thèse était de définir les caractéristiques d’un chaussant adapté au joueur de tennis enfant en terme de volume chaussant confortable et de limitation des blessures. Premièrement, une chaussette équipée de capteurs de pressions textiles a été conçue et la fiabilité de sa mesure a été validée. Ensuite, cet outil innovant a été utilisé afin de corréler la mesure de pression et la perception du confort sur 8 zones du pied, permettant ainsi de déterminer le volume intérieur de la chaussure optimal pour le joueur de tennis enfant. Deuxièmement, les effets aigus du drop de la chaussure sur la biomécanique des joueurs de tennis enfants ont été examinés et il a été montré que la réduction de 12 mm à 6 mm permettait de réduire les forces de réaction du sol et donc potentiellement les blessures liées à l’impact. Enfin, l’influence à long-terme de la réduction du drop de la chaussure sur la biomécanique et les douleurs au talon reportées par les jeunes joueurs de tennis a été investiguée. La réduction progressive du drop de la chaussure a induit un changement de patron de pose du pied, arrière vers avant-pied, pour la moitié des participants et a permis de supprimer leurs douleurs au talon. De futures études sont nécessaires pour examiner les adaptations structurelles du membre inférieur liées à l’utilisation de chaussures partiellement minimalistes. / Nowadays, most of tennis footwear manufacturers propose children tennis shoes that are scaled-down from adult shoes. However, children are not adult-miniature and have specific needs. Between 8 and 12 years old, children experience growth spurts that decrease the lower limb flexibility and increase the tensile forces on tendons insertion sites onto bones. In addition, the practice of tennis in high-intensity, with the repetition of accelerations and decelerations, places high tensile forces at the Achilles tendon insertion site onto the calcaneus and large compressive forces under the calcaneus. The combination of these 2 factors increase the risk to experience one of the main overuse injuries in children: Sever’s disease. Therefore, the aim of this thesis work was to define the features of a suitable footwear for children tennis players in terms of fitting comfort and limitation of injuries. Firstly, a sock equipped with textile pressure sensors was designed and its measurement reliability was validated. Then, this innovative device was used to correlate pressure measurement and comfort perception on 8 foot locations, allowing to determine the optimal inner-shoe volume for children tennis players. Secondly, the acute effects of shoe drop on the biomechanics of children tennis players were examined and it was shown that reducing from 12 mm to 6 mm allowed to reduce ground reaction forces and thus potentially impact-related injuries. Finally, the long-term influence of shoe drop reduction on the biomechanics and heel pain reported by children tennis players was investigated. The gradual reduction in shoe drop induced a switch from a rear- to forefoot strike pattern in half of the participants and allowed to remove heel pain for them. Future studies are needed to examine the lower-limb structural adaptations linked to the use of partial minimalist shoes.

RECCO AB är ett företag som utvecklar räddningssystem för lavinolyckor. Systemet fungerar genom en RFID tag (reflektor) och en detektor. Detektorn känner av reflektorn som sitter på jackan, hjälmen, skon eller pjäxan upp till 200 meters avstånd eller 30 meter genom snön. Detektorn används av erfaren lavinräddningspersonal. RECCO ska implementera reflektorer i vandringsskor för att söka efter människor som är i skogen och uppe i bergen. Syftet med examensarbetet är att utveckla en skotestmaskin som ska kunna testa livslängden på reflektorn. Bakgrundsundersökningen genomfördes genom en informationssökning om biomekanik i ben och fot, olika benrörelser som kan påverka skon, olika typer av vandringsskor och olika skotestmaskiner som finns ute på marknaden idag. Genomförandet av projektet inleddes genom ett test för att undersöka hur stora krafterna är som påverkar reflektorn i skon. Testet genomfördes med en tryckkänslig sensor och en Arduino UNO. Den maximala kraften på reflektorn blev 7.1 N. Därefter gjordes en brainstorming som resulterades i sju olika koncept. Koncepten vägdes emot varandra med hjälp av en PUGH matris, som resulterade i att ett koncept valdes att gå vidare med. Analysen av konceptet genomfördes med Solidworks, Matlab och ADAMS. Med SolidWorks gjordes detaljerade ritningar och ett montage av modellen. Med Matlab gjordes beräkningar på lagerhus, glidlager, kulbussning och motor. ADAMS användes för att simulera rörelsen och för att verifiera Matlab-beräkningarna. Resultatet av slutprodukten blev lyckat. Maskinens rörelse och de påverkande krafterna på reflektorn efterliknar testet som genomfördes i början av projektet. Eventuella förbättringar som kan utföras är inköp av en starkare motor för att uppnå en mer konstant hastighet eller ett svänghjul för att minska påfrestningarna på motorn. För vidare arbete på slutprodukten kan RECCO programmera en strömbrytare som stänger av motorn vid uppnått antal cykler. / RECCO is a company that develops rescue system for avalanche accidents. The system works by a RFID tag (reflector) and a detector. The detector senses the reflector that is attached to jackets, helmets, shoes and ski boots up to 200 meters or 30 meters through the snow. The detector is used by experienced avalanche rescue groups. RECCO will implement reflectors in hiking shoes to search for people who are in the woods and in the mountains. The purpose of this master theses is to develop a shoe test machine to be able to test the service life of the reflector. The background study was performed by an information search about the biomechanics of the leg and foot, different leg movements that may affect the shoe, different types of hiking shoes and several shoe test machines available on the market today. The implementation of the project began with a test to examine how large the forces are on the reflector acting in the shoe. The test was conducted by a pressure sensitive sensor connected to an Arduino UNO. The maximum force on the reflector was 7.1 N. This was followed by a brainstorming session that resulting in seven different concepts. The concepts were then evaluated against each other using a PUGH matrix, which resulted in a concept for further development. The analysis was conducted using SolidWorks, Matlab, and ADAMS. Detailed drawings and assembly of the model were made using SolidWorks. The calculations were made on bearing housings, plain bearings, linear ball bearing and the motor using Matlab. ADAMS was used to simulate the movement and to verify the Matlab calculations. The result of the final concept was succeeded. The machine's movement and the influencing forces on the reflector mimic the performed test that was made at the beginning of the project. Improvements that can be done is to change to a more powerful motor to achieve a more constant speed or a flywheel to reduce the strain on the motor. For further work RECCO can program a switch that turns off the motor when the number of cycles are achieved.

This thesis is being conducted by two final year Bachelor degree students, collaborating with a Swedish fashion brand producing leather sneakers with the aim to investigate the most common wear and tear of shoes in metropolitan and suburban environments. Shoes are readily known for having a relatively short product lifecycle and with few alternatives to prolong the materials usefulness at the end. Furthermore consumers find that the main problems that make them not want to repair, are mainly financial reasons and a lack of knowledge in repair methods. This study has conducted a survey to gain information of the most common wear and tears regarding shoes in order to meet what the consumers want for products in a repair kit. The study involved a qualitative interview about material expertise about the shoes used in this study with selected and qualified respondents from the fashion brand company. The data collected was sufficient to create a product list for a repair-kit and shows a PU-solution to repair damaged leather, heel patches to repair ripped lining, a cyanoacrylate glue to mend detached/broken outsoles and an informational manual should be the main components for the repair kit. This study is designed to work as a future recommendation specification of requirements to the company this study is collaborating with to prolong the time of usage for the shoes.

Innovation genom additiv tillverkning sker snabbt i dagens industri där snabb prototyptillverkning är något som additiv tillverkning lämpar sig bäst för. Däremot utforskas möjligheter för tillverkning av detaljer med funktionellt syfte då additiv tillverkning möjliggör mer komplicerad design än traditionella tillverkningsmetoder. Med de miljöproblem som förekommer i dagens samhälle ger det upphov till extrema väderförhållanden, exempelvis skogsbränder. Givet det så har detta projekt utforskat möjligheten av att genom additiv tillverkning konstruera en sula med ett inbyggt kylsystem i syfte att kyla foten under förlängd arbetstid i omgivning med hög temperatur. Kravet som ställdes på sulan var att i en omgivning med hög temperatur skall sulan kunna kyla mer än en traditionell sula över en period på 8 timmar. Med hjälp av CAD- och FEM-program analyserades tre primära modeller med avseende på temperaturutväxling samt belastning, varav dessa tre modeller ställdes i relation till en traditionell sula utan kylsystem. Resultaten hänvisar till att med de krav som ställdes på sulan ges en högre kylningseffekt vid två av tre av dessa modeller relativt en traditionell sula. Dessutom finns potential för fortsatt utveckling av liknande sulor med avseende på specialtillverkning. / Innovation through additive manufacturing occurs quickly in today’s industry where rapid prototyping is something that additive manufacturing excels at. However, research is being made to explore the ability for manufacturing components with functional use, where additive manufacturing makes more complex design possible in relation to traditional manufacturing methods. With the environmental problem that occurs in today’s world comes more extreme weather conditions, for example forest fires. With that as a basis, this project has explored the possibility of creating the sole of a shoe with a built-in cooling system, using additive manufacturing, for the purpose of extended work in an environment with a high temperature. The requirements put on the sole was that in an environment of high temperature the sole should be able to help reduce temperature inside the shoe itself over the course of an eight-hour workday. Three primary models were analysed in terms of transient temperature as well as load and deformation with the help of CAD and FEM programs, where these three soles were compared to a sole without any form of cooling system. The results show that with the parameters of the project, a greater cooling effect is achieved in two of the three models, compared to a regular sole. Furthermore, there is the potential for continued development of similar models of soles with respect to specific demands in fields such as hiking.

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