Dentre as diferentes poluições presentes nos oceanos, o plástico é provavelmente, aquele que leva aos maiores impactos ambientais, sendo encontrado de praias e manguezais à giros no meio dos oceanos. Os macroplásticos, cujo tamanho é superior a 5mm, são maiores em volume e provocam um impacto socioambiental importante, porém os microplásticos, fragmentos menores que 5mm, estão em maior quantidade e podem provocar danos em organismos marinhos filtradores como mexilhões e ostras. Apesar da sua grande presença nos oceanos, ainda não se estabeleceu com clareza se causam efeitos somente físicos, por um aumento de material particulado não orgânico ingerido, ou se seus efeitos podem ser de origem química, devido à quantidade de contaminantes que possuem. Para estudar o impacto que essas partículas têm em organismos filtradores, o mexilhão Perna perna, espécie bioindicadora abundante na costa brasileira, foi exposto a partículas de polietileno encontradas em cosméticos nacionais. O microplástico foi adquirido diretamente da indústria e precisou ser identificado. A análise de FT−IR mostrou que o plástico era polietileno de baixa densidade. Os organismos então foram expostos ao polietileno, virgem ou lixiviado, em duas concentrações (0,5 g⁄L e 2,5 g⁄L) por diferentes períodos (12,24,48,96 e 144 horas). Após os experimentos, os mexilhões foram coletados e dissecados e a resposta de seis biomarcadores foi analisada: O Tempo de Retenção do Vermelho Neutro nos hemócitos, Danos ao DNA e Lipoperoxidação nas brânquias e os níveis de três proteínas de estresse (AIF−1, pP38−MAPK e HSP−70) nas glândulas digestivas. Todos os biomarcadores foram afetados pela exposição ao polietileno, porém um padrão no resultado não pôde ser observado. Os fatores de exposição analisados (Concentração, Período e Tratamento do Plástico) individualmente, ou combinados, levaram a respostas diferentes e até mesmo opostas em alguns casos. A coleta de indivíduos de P. perna in situ na região do Porto de Santos mostrou que todos os bancos naturais possuem organismos contaminados. Os resultados deste trabalho mostram que a fisiologia do mexilhão P. perna é modificada após a exposição aguda ao polietileno. Um maior número de biomarcadores deve ser analisado futuramente para elucidar quais vias estão efetivamente sendo ativadas ou inibidas. O alto nível de contaminação dos mexilhões da região do porto de Santos é um fator alarmante que deve ser discutido pela sociedade com o intuito de se criar soluções para o problema da poluição por plástico nos oceanos antes que este afete a saúde humana. / Among all different pollutants, plastic debris is one of the main environmental impacts, being found from beaches and mangrove to gyres in the middle of the oceans. Macroplastics, with size above 5mm, are larger in volume and are an important social and environmental problem, but microplastics, fragments less than 5mm can be most harmful for filter feeding animals such as mussels and oysters. However, it is still debatable if its effects are physical, due to the increase in indigestible material; or chemical, due to plastic additives such as phthalates or PCBs. To study the impact that these particles can have in those animals, the brown mussel Perna perna (Bivalvia) an abundant and an organism easy to maintain in the laboratory, was exposed to virgin or leached polyethylene (PE) microbeads, used as abrasives in Brazilian cosmetics. Polyethylene was acquired directly from the industry and therefore needed to be identified. Analysis of FT−IR showed that the plastic was Low Density Polyethylene. The microplastic exposure had two concentrations (0.5 and 2.5g⁄l) and different periods of time (12, 24, 48, 96 and 144 hours). After the experiment, the organisms were dissected and the levels of six biomarkers were analyzed: Neutral Red Retention Time by the Hemocytes, Lipid Peroxidation and DNA Damages in the Gills and the response levels of three stress proteins (pP38−MAPK, AIF−1 and HSP−70) in the Digestive Glands. All biomarkers were affected by the PE exposure, but the results did not follow a pattern. The exposure factors analyzed (Concentration, Period of Time and Plastic Treatment), alone or combined, led to different and sometimes opposite responses. In Situ collected samples in the Santos Harbour area showed that all natural mussel\'s beds analyzed had microplastics contaminated mussels. The results of this work showed that microplastics acute exposure in P. perna modifies its physiology. More biomarkers should be used to clarify which pathways are being activated or inhibited. The high levels of contamination of important commercial mussel\'s beds in the Santos Harbour area, is an alarming sign for the community, that should start working together to solve the plastic pollution problem in our oceans before starts to affect human health.

La conception de mélanges optimaux est un défi important dans de nombreux secteurs industriels, notamment pour les produits formulés comme les cosmétiques. En raison du grand nombre de combinaisons différentes d'ingrédients et de leurs niveaux d'utilisation, une question cruciale est de savoir comment définir un espace de recherche réduit en utilisant les connaissances disponibles. Pour cela, outre la prise en compte de certaines propriétés physico-chimiques essentielles du produit final, il est d'une importance capitale de tenir compte de la performance du produit telle que perçue par le consommateur final. Ici on a proposé une méthodologie pour trouver un ensemble de formulations plausibles de produits cosmétiques émulsifiés, basée sur une analyse intégrale floue des préférences du consommateur, intégrée à un outil d'optimisation d'entiers mixtes qui intègre des règles heuristiques disponibles et des modèles de propriétés. Deux études de cas d'émulsions cosmétiques ont été présentées pour illustrer la méthodologie. Dans un premier exemple utilisant des après-shampooings, les propriétés rhéologiques, texturales et microstructurales de neuf formulations alternatives, fabriquées en laboratoire, ont été mesurées pour valider la modélisation des produits émulsifiés. Ensuite, deux produits commerciaux de crèmes hydratantes ont été testés pour identifier les attributs les plus pertinents pour les consommateurs, en utilisant des mesures floues. Sur la base de cette évaluation, dix solutions, générées par ordinateur avec des coûts minimaux d'ingrédients ont également été fabriquées et évaluées, ce qui montre que la méthodologie proposée pourrait être bien adaptée pour accélérer les processus de reformulation ou d'étalonnage. En utilisant cette approche, les concepteurs de produits pourraient également estimer la pertinence et les interactions des attributs du consommateur et guider la conception d'autres produits formulés / The design of optimal mixtures is a major challenge in many industrial sectors, especially for formulated products such as cosmetics. Due to the large number of different combinations of ingredients and their quantities, a critical issue is how to define a narrow search space using available knowledge. For this purpose, besides considering some key physicochemical properties of the final product, it is of paramount importance to take into account the performance of the product as perceived by the final consumer. Here, we have proposed a methodology to find a set of plausible formulations for emulsified cosmetic products, based on a fuzzy integral analysis of the consumer preferences and integrated into a mixed-integer optimization tool that incorporates available heuristic rules and property models. Two case studies of cosmetic emulsions were given to illustrate the methodology. In a first example using hair conditioners, the rheological, textural, and microstructural properties of nine alternative formulations manufactured at a lab scale were measured to validate the modelling of emulsified products. Then, two commercial samples of skin moisturizers were tested to identify the most relevant consumer attributes using fuzzy measures. Based on this assessment, ten computer-generated solutions with minimum ingredient costs were also manufactured and evaluated, showing that the proposed methodology could be well adapted to accelerate reformulation or benchmarking processes. Using this approach, product designers could also estimate the relevance and interactions of subjective consumer attributes and guide the design of other formulated products

Made available in DSpace on 2016-04-26T18:14:59Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Elaine Cristina Andreotti Peixoto.pdf: 3539216 bytes, checksum: 285e84e9eb7c6c7ff5f7e6d408877d92 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2015-03-16 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / It is known that the " colors and their applications" on advertising are carried out in order to cause in the receiver / consumer reactions that result in consuming the product advertised and arouse passions or dreams. Many studies have been undertaken to analyze the effect of the structure of advertisements and language in their receivers . However , most of them does not address specifically the influence of chromaticity or its relation to the context and the sociohistorical and cultural conditions in which they were produced and how this influence reaches the consumer. For this reason and in order to develop an understanding of advertising and its expansion in Brazil , it is necessary to contextualize it , some relevant facts occurred in Brazil and the world, the years from 1960 to 2014. The study object of this dissertation is to understand the relationship between color and advertising , color and society , color and history, that is , as the realization of these compositions , build our history , our way of looking at society and consume their goods : if the female cosmetics . From a methodological point of view, a qualitative analytical and comparative study was conducted , based on examples or case studies collected in print and / or digital media, collected in monthly periodicity of magazines and their websites / É sabido que as cores e suas aplicações na publicidade são realizadas tendo em vista provocar, no receptor/consumidor, reações que o levem a consumir o produto anunciado, bem como despertar paixões ou sonhos. Muitos estudos têm sido realizados no sentido de analisar o efeito da estrutura das publicidades e da linguagem em seus receptores. No entanto, a maioria deles não aborda, especificamente, a influência da cromaticidade ou sua relação com o contexto e as condições sócio-histórico-culturais em que foram produzidas, bem como de que forma essa influência atinge o consumidor. Por esse motivo e com o intuito de desenvolver uma compreensão acerca da publicidade e sua expansão no Brasil, se faz necessário contextualizá-la, apontando fatos relevantes ocorridos no Brasil e no mundo, dos anos de 1960 até 2014. O objeto de estudo dessa dissertação está em compreender a relação entre cor e publicidade, cor e sociedade, cor e história, ou seja, como a realização dessas composições, constroem a nossa história, o nosso modo de ver a sociedade e de consumir seus bens: no caso os cosméticos femininos. Do ponto de vista metodológico, desenvolveu-se uma pesquisa qualitativa, analítica e comparativa, fundamentada em exemplos ou estudos de caso colhidos em mídias impressas e/ou digitais, coletadas em revistas de periodicidade mensais e, respectivos sites

The current green marketing industry is growing due to increasing consumer demand in combination with current environmental issues. Even so a common definition of the term green does not exist which creates both company and consumer confusion. Generally the expression is perceived by consumers to only describe environmentally friendly products but it is also further applied to different activities such as production, distribution and retailing. Due to the consumer lack of knowledge companies are having continuous difficulties satisfying the consumer’s changing needs and simultaneously protecting the environment. Companies are hoping to create awareness regarding environmental issues with the use of green marketing; however some companies are claiming to be green as a concealed marketing ploy, known as greenwashing.This study’s purpose aims to reveal and analyze whether there are gaps of knowledge in the topic green products and predominantly green cosmetics between Swedish green consumers and green companies. Lush Cosmetics has been chosen as a case company for this dissertations explorative kind and the empirical findings have been collected by a semi-structured interview with a product & people developer at the company. Answers from green consumers have been retrieved through focus group meetings with suitable respondents.Analysis of the empirical information was subsequently completed through the study’s theoretical framework to find what types of dissents exist between the two parts and why these have been generated. Results of the analysis showed that confusion as well as different opinions is present between the two parts. The knowledge gaps are prominent between the company and the consumers in the subjects of understanding marketing terms, price, ingredients and efficiency. / Program: Textilekonomutbildningen

Para a indústria de produtos de higiene e cosméticos o recurso água é de primordial relevância, considerando as quantidades e a qualidade necessárias para a condução dos processos de produção. O agravamento da escassez de água, devido ao crescimento populacional e às atividades industriais, pressionam para a elaboração de leis e normas que restringem o uso da água, elevam os custos para a sua obtenção e impõem maiores controles sobre o tratamento e lançamento de efluentes. Assim, as técnicas de conservação e reúso de água passam a ser elementos diferenciais nos resultados das empresas que as utilizam, além, é claro, do evidente benefício para a sociedade e meio ambiente. Este trabalho tem o objetivo de apresentar um estudo de caso mostrando técnicas utilizadas na conservação e reúso de água no segmento industrial de fabricação de cosméticos. São descritas as dificuldades e limitações existentes, em função das características do processo produtivo e das exigências de qualidade e normas sanitárias. Entretanto, apesar dessas limitações, mostra-se ainda que existem oportunidades para redução dos índices de consumo do recurso água, através de modificações em processos de lavagem de tanques e reatores, controle de perdas, eliminação de desperdícios, conscientização e treinamentos de operadores. Essas ações podem levar a economias substanciais, que podem chegar a até 80 % em alguns dos processos investigados. São ações que podem ser aplicadas em complementação ao programa de conservação existente. / Water is an essential resource for the manufacturing of personal care products and cosmetics, when account is taken of the amount and quality required for carrying out these production processes. The water scarcity, due to the population growth and expansion of industrial activities, are leading the authorities to draw up laws and regulations to restrict the use of water, raise the costs of its supply and impose greater control over its treatment and the discharge of effluents. Thus, conservation techniques and water reuse are becoming distinct factors in the results of the companies which employ this technology, besides the fact that there are evident benefits to the society and the environment. The purpose of this paper is to discuss a case study which examines the techniques for conserving and reusing water in the manufacturing sector of the cosmetics industry. The difficulties and restrictions on water conservation and reuse are described with regard to the way it is supplied and current quality and sanitation requirements. However, despite the fact that these restrictions are in force, it is also shown that there is still opportunity for reducing the level of consumption of this resource. This includes changes in the way tanks and reactors are cleaned, better control of water loss, cutting waste in water operations, and ensuring that a proper training is given to the operators so that they are made aware of the problems. These measures can also lead to substantial savings, which, it was estimated, reached a level of 80 % in some processes investigated. The findings of this study suggest that there is a need to supplement the conservation program already in practice.

>Magister Scientiae - MSc / Tyrosinase is an enzyme widely distributed in the biosphere and is found in many species of bacteria, fungi, animals, and plants; it is associated with melanin production. Even though it possesses many beneficial properties such as photoprotection, but overproduction causes undesirable effects such melasma, solar lentigines etc. Therefore, tyrosinase enzyme inhibitors are of far-ranging importance in cosmetics, medicinal products, and food industries. This study is aimed to test anti-tyrosinase activity in 37 plants from 20 families using mushroom tyrosinase inhibition method; each plant was extracted with methanol. The results showed that 17 plant extracts, exerted a considerable level of in vitro tyrosinase inhibition comparable to positive controls of kojic acid in the same solvent systems when evaluated spectrophotometrically. Among plant extracts, those that showed an inhibition rate >50 % at 50 μg/ml and ˃60 % at 200 μg/ml were A. karroo (Hayne.), A. afra Jacq. Ex Willd, C. geifolia (L.), E. racemosa (L.), H. petiolare Hilliard & B.L.Burt, M. quercifolia (L.), M. communis (L.), P. rigida (Wikstr.), P. ecklonii (Benth.), P. ericoides (L.), S. Africanacaerulea (L.), S. Africana-lutea (L.), S. antarcticus (Willd.), S. lucida (L.) F.A.Barkley, S. hamilifolius (L.), S. furcellata R.Br and T riparia which exhibited great anti-tyrosinase activity.

CoordenaÃÃo de AperfeiÃoamento de Pessoal de NÃvel Superior / Esta pesquisa tem como objetivo discutir como as tÃcnicas argumentativas e as funÃÃes discursivas do processo referencial anafÃrico atuam na conduÃÃo argumentativa do gÃnero anÃncio publicitÃrio de cosmÃtico. Para isso, nos valemos do mÃtodo qualitativo e analisamos 30 textos de anÃncios publicitÃrios de cosmÃticos, coletados dos sites das marcas Natura (www.natura.net/), Avon (http://www.avon.com.br), Ãgua de cheiro (http://www.aguadecheiro.com.br) e BoticÃrio (http://internet.boticario.com.br). Nesta pesquisa, assumimos como arcabouÃo teÃrico os pressupostos defendidos pela Nova RetÃrica (PERELMAN; TYTECA, 2005) e pela ReferenciaÃÃo (MONDADA, L.; DUBOIS, 2003; KOCH, 2004; CIULLA E SILVA, 2008 e CAVALCANTE, 2006, 2011) para a anÃlise dos fenÃmenos mencionados que compÃem nossa amostra. Nosso estudo revela que os argumentos pela identificaÃÃo, definiÃÃo, analiticidade, divisÃo, probabilidades, pragmÃtico, autoridade, ilustraÃÃo, exemplo, a metÃfora e o argumento pela dissociaÃÃo das noÃÃes, tÃcnicas da Nova RetÃrica, ocupam posiÃÃo de destaque na tessitura do gÃnero anÃncio publicitÃrio de cosmÃtico. No que concerne à anÃlise das funÃÃes discursivas do processo referencial anafÃrico, nosso trabalho mostra que o grupo das seis funÃÃes: organizaÃÃo de partes do texto, metadiscursividade, marcaÃÃo de heterogeneidade discursiva, ativaÃÃo da memÃria, introduÃÃo de informaÃÃes novas e efeitos estÃtico-estilÃsticos se mostram bastante produtivas, demonstrando, nesse caso, o quanto os anÃncios de cosmÃticos representam um terreno fÃrtil para o estudo dos processos referenciais e suas funÃÃes discursivas. Assim, os recursos textual-discursivos sÃo usados pelos anunciantes para representar o universo feminino, tencionando convencer as consumidoras das vantagens dos cosmÃticos anunciados e estimulÃ-las a comprar os cosmÃticos para atender aos padrÃes femininos estabelecidos pela sociedade pÃs-moderna. (248 palavras) / This research aims to discuss how the argumentative techniques and the discursive functions found in the processing of anaphoric reference act in the conduct for argumentation in the genre of cosmetic advertisement. For that purpose, we have used the qualitative research method and analyzed 30 cosmetics advertisement texts collected from the following brand namesâ websites: Natura (www.natura.net/), Avon (http://www.avon.com.br), Ãgua de cheiro (http://www.aguadecheiro.com.br) and BoticÃrio (http://internet.boticario.com.br). In this research we have assumed the theoretical framework defended by The New Rethoric (PERELMAN; TYTECA, 2005) and by Referentation (MONDADA, L.; DUBOIS, 2003; KOCH, 2004; CIULLA E SILVA, 2008 and CAVALCANTE, 2006, 2011) in order to analyze the phenomena in our sample. Our study reveals that the arguments made through identification, definition, analyticity, division, probability, pragmatism, authority, illustration, example, metaphor and the argument through dissociation of concepts, which are techniques found in The New Rethoric, play an important part in the texture of the cosmetic advertisement genre. Regarding the analysis of the discursive functions found in the processing of anaphoric reference, our study shows that the group of six functions: organization of parts of the text, metadiscourse, discursive heterogeneity, memory activation, introduction of new information and aesthetics/ stylistics effects have shown to be very productive, thus indicating that cosmetics advertisements have proved fertile ground for the study of referential processes and their discursive functions. Therefore the discursive and textual resources are used by the advertisers as a way to represent the feminine universe aiming to convince the female consumers of the advantages of the advertised cosmetics and motivate them to buy such cosmetics as a way to live up to the feminine standards established by post-modern society. (274 words)

As vitaminas vêm sendo muito utilizadas em cosméticos e dentre elas, o pantenol, por fazer parte da constituição normal da pele e devido as suas propriedades umectantes e cicatrizantes, tem tido destaque para aplicação nesta categoria de produtos. Devido ao interesse e a grande importância da realização de estudos que possam avaliar a influência das vitaminas na estabilidade física de formulações cosméticas, bem como de estudos científicos que comprovem os seus benefícios propostos, o objetivo dessa pesquisa foi o desenvolvimento, a avaliação da estabilidade e a eficácia na hidratação e nas propriedades viscoelásticas de formulações cosméticas contendo diferentes concentrações de pantenol. Para tal, foram desenvolvidas oito formulações, sendo três géis a base de polímeros hidrofílicos (formulações nos 1, 2, e 3), três géis creme a base de polímeros hidrofílicos e microemulsão de silicone (formulações nos 4, 5, e 6) e duas emulsões sendo uma delas a base de álcool batílico e lecitina de soja (formulação no 7) e a outra a base de manteiga de karité e carbômero (formulação no 8). Estas formulações foram acrescidas ou não de 0,5; 1,0 e 5,0% de pantenol e submetidas a testes preliminares de estabilidade. O estudo de estabilidade física foi realizado por determinação do comportamento reológico sendo que, com as formulações consideradas mais estáveis, foi realizada uma avaliação sensorial prévia ao estudo de eficácia proposto. O estudo de eficácia das formulações objeto de estudo, foi realizado por metodologias in vivo não invasivas (Bioengenharia Cutânea), sendo determinados o conteúdo aquoso do estrato córneo, a perda de água transepidérmica (TEWL), a viscoelasticidade e elasticidade biológica cutânea. Neste estudo, para a determinação dos efeitos a curto prazo, as formulações foram aplicadas nos antebraços de 20 voluntárias, sendo realizadas medidas antes e após 1 e 2 horas da aplicação única. Esses mesmos parâmetros também foram utilizados para realizar medidas nos antebraços de 40 voluntárias após 15 e 30 dias, com aplicação diária das formulações, para avaliar os seus efeitos a longo prazo. Os dados foram analisados estatisticamente para o delineamento experimental e discussão dos resultados obtidos. Nas condições experimentais deste trabalho, foi possível concluir que nos testes de estabilidade física as formulações de nos 2, 5, 6 e 7 foram consideradas as mais estáveis e a formulação de nº 6 foi a que apresentou o melhor sensorial, de acordo com as voluntárias, sendo, portanto, selecionada para os estudos de eficácia do pantenol na pele humana. Na avaliação dos efeitos imediatos das formulações na pele humana, foi possível observar que, após única aplicação, todas as formulações estudadas, ou seja, acrescidas ou não de pantenol, proporcionaram um aumento significativo no conteúdo aquoso do estrato córneo após 1 hora da aplicação, em relação aos valores basais, e, após 2 horas da aplicação, apenas a formulação contendo 5,0% de pantenol provocou um aumento significativo neste parâmetro. Além disso, o estudo demonstrou que somente as formulações que continham pantenol nas concentrações avaliadas ocasionaram diminuição significativa na TEWL, ou seja, protegeram a função barreira da pele; entretanto não ocorreram alterações significativas nas propriedades viscoelásticas da pele. Por outro lado, em relação à avaliação dos efeitos a longo prazo, foi possível observar que todas as formulações objeto de estudo, apresentaram um aumento significativo no conteúdo aquoso do estrato córneo após 15 e 30 dias de aplicação, quando comparadas com os valores basais. Em relação à avaliação da viscoelasticidade e da elasticidade biológica da pele, assim como no estudo a curto prazo, não ocorreram alterações significativas nestas propriedades da pele no estudo a longo prazo. Na avaliação da TEWL, apenas as formulações que continham pantenol a 1,0 e 5,0% protegeram a função barreira, provocando uma diminuição significativa neste parâmetro, após 15 e 30 dias de aplicação das formulações, o que pode sugerir que para que o pantenol tenha um efeito significativo a longo prazo na função barreira da pele, este deve ser incorporado nas formulações em concentrações mais altas, ou seja, 1,0 e 5,0% de pantenol. / Vitamins have been extensively used in cosmetic formulations and panthenol, which is vitamin that is a normal constituent of the skin and has humectants and wound healing effects, has large application in this category of products. Due to the importance of the conduction of studies that contribute to the assessment of the influences of the vitamins on the physical stability of dermocosmetic formulations, as well as the necessity of scientific studies that confirm their benefits, the aim of this research was to develop cosmetic formulations containing panthenol in different concentrations and also to evaluate their physical stability and their efficacy in the skin hydration and viscoelastic properties. For this purpose, eight formulations were developed, three gels containing hydrophilic polymers (formulations 1, 2 e 3), other three cream gels containing hydrophilic polymers and silicone microemulsion (formulations 4, 5 e 6) and finally two emulsions, one containing batyl alcohol and lecithin (formulation 7) and the other one containing shea butter and carbomer (formulation 8). These formulations were supplemented or not with 0,5; 1,0 e 5,0% of panthenol and submitted to preliminary stability tests. The physical stability of formulations was evaluated by determination of the viscosity and rheological behavior. After this, stable formulations were submitted to a previous sensorial analysis. The formulation efficacy was evaluated using the following non-invasive methodologies (Skin Bioengineering Techniques) determination of hydration of the stratum corneum, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin viscoelasticity and biological elasticity. In order to evaluate the immediate effects, the formulations were applied to the forearm of 20 volunteers and the measurements were carried out after 1 and 2 hours of a single application. In addition, for the evaluation of long-term effects of the formulations, the same parameters were measured after 15 and 30 days of daily application to the forearm of 40 volunteers. In the experimental conditions of the study, it was possible to conclude that the formulations 2, 5, 6 and 7 were considered stable. Moreover, formulation 6, according to the volunteers, showed the best sensorial attributes, and for this reason, was selected for the efficacy study of the panthenol on human skin. The study of the immediate effects showed that all the formulations enhanced the stratum corneum water content values after 1 hour of the application. However after 2 hours, only the formulation supplemented with 5% of panthenol produced significant increase in this parameter. In addition, the study showed that only the formulations supplemented with panthenol produced a significant decrease in TEWL, protecting skin barrier function. Nevertheless, no significant alterations were observed in the skin viscoelastic properties. Concerning the study of the long-term effects, all the formulations supplemented or not with panthenol produced a significant increase in skin hydration after 15 and 30 days of daily formulation application, when compared with the baseline values. No significant alterations were observed in skin viscoelasticity and biological elasticity properties in the long term studies. The evaluation of the TEWL showed that only the formulations supplemented with 1 and 5% of panthenol improved the skin barrier function, resulting in a significant decrease in this parameter after 15 and 30 of daily application of these formulations, which can suggest that to present significant long-term effects on skin barrier function, the formulation under study must be supplemented with higher concentrations of panthenol, such as 1 or 5%.

Depuis plus de 20 ans, de nombreuses méthodes et techniques non invasives ont été développées en vue de mesurer le plus objectivement possible, les propriétés (physico-chimiques, sensorielles, etc.) des produits cosmétiques. Ces méthodes visent à évaluer leur innocuité et leur efficacité, et deviennent d’autant plus perfectionnées que les processus d’élaborations de ces produits deviennent complexes et innovants.Au cours de ces travaux de thèse, une étude multi-échelle, de l'évolution structurale d'émulsions cosmétiques représentatives des crèmes mises sur le marché a été menée, afin de prédire leur stabilité tant texturale que microbiologique.L’étude du lien entre l’organisation structurale de ces émulsions avec leur composition et leur stabilité a été un des premiers défis à relever. Grâce à une technique non destructive ultrasonore permettant d’accéder aux propriétés micro-rhéologiques (propriétés viscoélastiques observée lors d'une sollicitation harmonique de cisaillement à quelques MHz), en association à différentes techniques classiques de caractérisation (microscopie optique, rhéologie basse fréquence, etc.) ; il a été possible de corréler les paramètres micro-rhéologiques obtenus à des modèles physiques reliant structuration interne et stabilité dans les émulsions considérées. Les résultats ont montrés que les données micro-rhéologiques sont sensibles aux variations de compositions (concentration) et d’organisations microscopiques des micelles au sein des émulsions (floculation, coalescence, etc.).Ensuite, le suivi de l’évolution d’une bactérie type (Pseudomonas fluorescens) dans des émulsions possédant des structures internes différentes, a montré d’une part la sensibilité de la micro-rhéologie vis-à-vis de la présence de bactéries dans le milieu, et d’autre part, l’impact de la structure et l’organisation des micelles sur le développement de ces bactéries.Finalement, la micro-rhéologie apparait être une méthode de mesure innovante et adaptée à l’échelle industrielle apportant une valeur ajoutée lors du développement de formulations cosmétiques. D’un point de vue sécuritaire, le dépistage précoce de contaminations biologiques par la détection d’instabilités (de changements) structurales au sein des émulsions, pourrait représenter une avancée majeure lors des phases de production et de commercialisation des produits cosmétiques. / In the last 20 years, many non-invasive methods and techniques have been developed in order to measure the properties (physicochemical, sensory, etc.) of cosmetic products. These methods are designed to evaluate their safety and effectiveness, and become even more sophisticated as the processes of developing these products become complex and innovative.During this thesis works, a multi-scale study of the structural evolution of cosmetic emulsions was conducted in order to predict their textural and microbiological stability.The study of the link between the structural organization of these emulsions with their composition and their stability was one of the first challenges. Thanks to an ultrasonic non-destructive technique allowing access to micro-rheological properties (viscoelastic properties observed during a harmonic loading of shear at a few MHz), in association with different classical characterization techniques (optical microscopy, low frequency rheology, etc. .); it was possible to correlate the micro-rheological parameters obtained with physical models linking internal structuring and stability in the emulsions considered. The results showed that micro-rheological data are sensitive to variations in compositions (concentration) and microscopic organization of micelles within emulsions (flocculation, coalescence, etc.).Then, the follow-up of the evolution of Pseudomonas fluorescens bacteria in emulsions with different internal structures showed on the one hand the sensitivity of micro-rheology towards the presence of bacteria in the cream, and on the other hand, the impact of the structure and organization of micelles on the development of these bacteria.Finally, micro-rheology appears to be an innovative measurement method adapted on an industrial scale providing added value when developing cosmetic formulations. From a safety point of view, the early detection of biological contaminations by the detection of structural instabilities (of changes) within emulsions could represent a major advance during the production and marketing phases of cosmetic products.

<p>Denna kandidatuppsats behandlar ämnet reklam i termer av standardisering och lokalanpassning. Avsikten har varit att ta reda på hur Oriflame Cosmetics har valt att standardisera eller lokalanpassa sin reklam inom regionen EMEA (Europa, Mellanöstern och Afrika), samt i vilken utsträckning Oriflames lokala representanter kan medverka i denna process. Fokus har legat på katalogutformningen då detta är Oriflame Cosmetics huvudsakliga tryckta material.</p><p>Den forskning som presenteras rör särskilt prototypstandardisering (Prototype Standardisation) och schablonstandardisering (Pattern Standardisation) av reklam. Forskare visar också på hur fokus har skiftat från att skilja på fullständig lokalanpassning och fullständig standardisering, till att istället behandla regional standardisering samt vilken roll lokala representanter har i denna process och relationen mellan huvudkontor och dotterbolag.</p><p>Undersökningen baseras på intervjuer med anställda inom Oriflame som har god insyn i företaget och katalogutvecklingen, samt på sekundärdata inhämtat från finansiella rapporter och dagspress. De huvudsakliga frågorna berörde hur processen för katalogutformandet ser ut samt hur lokala representanter medverkar i denna.</p><p>De resultat och slutsatser som undersökningen visar på är att Oriflame Cosmetics har en tydlig regional ansvarsfördelning vid katalogutformandet. De använder sig främst av så kallad schablonstandardisering men verkar överlag ha funnit en balans mellan lokalanpassning och standardisering av sitt reklammaterial. Lokala representanter medverkar i början av processen med möjlighet att ge feedback angående idéer till nya kataloger men beslutsfattande sker på regional nivå. De lokala representanterna har dock också möjlighet att komplettera katalogerna genom andra aktiviteter snarare än att ha direkt kontroll över katalogframtagningen.</p>