Typescript, etc. / Digitized by Kansas State University Libraries

The Costume History Digital Archive was created to sustain the costume history 35mm slide collection from the department of Theatre & Dance, and make it accessible to the University community at large. It is a flexible, living archive that I leave as my legacy to the University of Texas at Austin. Following are instructions of both how to use it and how to maintain it. / text

In the fall of 1971, this writer undertook a creative project in costume design for the play Macbeth and met with the director to discuss the production concept. The director specified his particular costume requirements, and the designer researched the late eleventh and twelfth centuries to determine salient features of the historic dress. The designer again conferred with the director, and a collaboration of ideas resulted in costumes primarily reflective of the late eleventh and late twelfth centuries. During production in April of 1972, a committee of faculty members and students evaluated the costumes, which were judged favorably. Specific reference has been made to the validity of costume evaluations in general, and recommendations for future projects in costume design have been discussed.

An examination of the Shirley Plantation Collection, Hill Carter, Mary B. Carter, their children, the plantation workers and their wardrobe between 1825 and 1835.

No description available.

The purpose of this study - Actors, costumes and agreements - is to highlight an almost forgotten part of the history of theatre costume and theatre history.  During at least two hundred years actors in Sweden were expected to contribute to the performance by their costumes. The study is divided into three parts: agreements, memoirs and conversation. Nine agreements between theatres and actors from 1778 to 1971 will be analyzed with focus on costumes. What do they express about the period, fashion and repertoire, audience? The theatres demand of the actors could be very detailed and shifting. Three memoire books and conversation with seven actors represent the actors view. Questions arise about actors poor economy, theatre culture and gender. The study will also show periods with connection between fashion and theatre costume.

Orientador: Ernesto Giovanni Boccara / Tese (doutorado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Instituto de Artes / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-13T23:03:03Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Ximenes_MariaAlice_D.pdf: 2735860 bytes, checksum: 3d3895755e9f44181b86c5416a3848bc (MD5) Previous issue date: 2009 / Resumo: A presente pesquisa tem como objetivo fazer uma homenagem à forma. A forma que forma e deforma, que reforma e transforma, que transcende e que tem vida. Que faz e desfaz, que nasce e morre. A forma que desenha o espaço, o corpo e o movimento. A forma pesquisada é a forma da saia na dança flamenca e seu movimento helicoidal. Movimento semelhante ao das galáxias, ao da cadeia de DNA, semelhante também à anatomia humana, o desenho dos ossos e músculos. Na capacidade de ser efêmera e jamais apreendida é que reside seu encanto. Também há uma forte razão em pesquisar a saia e a Espanha, terra dos meus precedentes, cultura em que cresci, além da paixão pelo vestuário, especialmente os de Andaluzia. O percurso nos mistérios e representatividade da vestimenta espanhola permitiu-me mergulhar nas mais incríveis histórias, desde as reais até as mitificadas no tempo. Conhecer a construção do país e entender como ele se formou permitiram-me desdobramentos de possíveis intersecções no resultado dos trajes. O mosaico de culturas trouxe descobertas incríveis na representação da mulher espanhola principalmente através de registros dos pintores dos séculos XVIII e XIX. Há uma natureza histórica na busca de identificar a formação da composição da roupa feminina espanhola, que, desde publicações vindas da Espanha, bibliografias de história da dança e do traje, até a profunda observação do corpo em movimento esculpindo formas delirantes que parecem um ciclone a desenhar os desenhos da dança. Palavras-chave: Corpo Feminino, História da Arte, História da Moda, Dança, Artes Plásticas, Espanha / Abstract: The present research aims to pay tribute to the shape. The shape that forms and becomes deformed, that reforms and transforms, that transcends and which has life. That does and undoes, that is born and dies. The shape that draws the space, the body and the movement. The shape of the present study is the shape of the skirt in the flamenco dance and its helicoidal movement. This movement is similar of those of the galaxies, the DNA chains, also similar to the human anatomy, the design of bones and muscles. It's in the capacity of being ephemeral and never understood that lies its charm. There's also a strong reason to research the skirt and Spain, home of my ancestors, culture in which I grew up, as well as the passion for the costume, especially from Andaluzia. The route in the mysteries and representativity of the Spanish costume, allowed me to immerse in the most incredible histories, from the real to the mythical ones of time. Knowing the construction of the country and understand how it was formed, enabled me to see the developments of possible intersections in the result of the costumes. The mosaic of cultures brought amazing discoveries in the Spanish woman's representation mainly through the records of the painters in the 18th and 19th centuries. There's a historical nature in the search of identifying the formation of composition of the Spanish woman's clothes, that from publications came from Spain, bibliographies of the history of dance and of the costume, to the profound observation of the body in movement sculpting delirious shapes that look like a cyclone drawing the designs of dance. Key Words - Female body; History of Art ; History of Costume ; Dance ; Fine art ; Spain / Doutorado / Artes / Doutor em Artes

This thesis concerns six Swedish history paintings from 1864 until 1897 with motifs depicting the Swedish renaissance. The purpose of the thesis is to examine the influence of 19th century fashion on the depiction of garments from the renaissance, and what this portrayal deflects concerning the artists contemporary vision of fashion and bodily ideals in the 16th century. Using a checklist method to approach the artworks the thesis examines how and to what extent the artists used visual culture from the 16th century in their visualization of the era and wether or not this portrayal is affected by the artists contemporary fashions. Interwined with the method is the theoretical framwork of the thesis, based upon the notion of fashion in art as a fabricated construct and history usage. The thesis presents the idea that the history painting depicting events spanning between a period of 70 years still uses a similar fashion in the works, even considering the time frame of different styles. The idea of gender coded garments and body siluetts during the 19th century heavily affects the fashion in the paintings, as well as the artist’s contemporary attitudes towards representations of sexuality and bodily beauty.

No description available.

A les primeres dècades de la catorzena centúria la vestimenta catalana (i en general, la d’Occident) és sacsejada per novedoses formes que canvien la silueta dels seus portadors tant masculins com femenins. Al mateix temps, aquestes vestidures s’adornaren amb un creixent i refinat luxe que transpassà els reduïts límits dels cercles cortesans i aristocràtics per abastar a grups socials com la burgesia enriquits pel comerç o els negocis i que es podien permetre destinar un elevat dispendi per al seu guarda-roba. El centre cronològic de més interès pel que fa a l’evolució vestimentària de Catalunya arrenca als anys 40 i acaba a finals dels 80, amb una dècada entremig, 1340-1350, que es rebel•la fonamental per a la generalització d’importants canvis en la indumentària. Tot i així, els límits cronològics han estat a vegades ampliats als segles XIII o XV quan així ho ha requerit l’estudi dels antecedents o de l’evolució tipològica d’una determinada peça de vestir. El treball s’ha basat en l’estudi dels principals vestits externs, de les vestidures anomenades a l’època subiranes. La més estesa és la cota de la qual les imatges artístiques ens han permès identificar diverses variants tipològiques que hem denominat cota A, cota B, cota C, cota talar i cota ardia. Al costat de les cotes s’han considerat altres vestits externs com l’aljuba, el pellot, el curtapeu i el gipó. Tanmateix, l’estudi abasta també els vestits interiors que acompanyaven als exteriors com la gonella, la gonella encordada i la samarra així com el mantell i la gramalla que eren considerats peces d’abrigall. L’establiment de tipologies de diferents peces de vestir i la seva evolució cap a noves formes s’ha basat en l’anàlisi de fonts documentals, literàries, iconogràfiques i arqueològiques. Un apartat preferent d’aquest treball és el constituït per l’anàlisi de les lleis sumptuàries. En el decurs del segle XIV les autoritats dictaren a diverses ciutats i poblacions del territori europeu diverses ordinacions destinades a limitar el creixent luxe vestimentari i les supèrflues despeses que aquest comportava. Les lleis sumptuàries catalanes que han estat examinades en aquest estudi són les de Barcelona, Cervera, Mallorca i Berga. En definitiva, la indumentària esdevení un autèntic codi que no havia de ser transgredit ja que establia i feia reconeixibles jerarquies i funcions. Tanmateix, a mesura que va evolucionant el segle XIV, el llenguatge de la vestimenta coneix insistents intervencions del poder, tant del civil com del religiós, per a regular-lo i, en definitiva, “domesticar-lo”. / In the first decades of the fourteenth century the Catalan outfit (and in general the West) is shaken with innovative ways that change the shape of its wearers, both male and female. At the same time these garments were adorned with a growing and refined luxury which went over the narrow limits of the court and aristocratic circles to encompass social groups such as the bourgeoisie enriched by trade or business who could afford to spend a large expense in their wardrobe. The chronological center of most interest regarding the evolution of Catalonia dress starts in the 40s and finishes in late 80s, with a decade in between, from 1340 to 1350, which reveals fundamental to the spread of important changes in clothing. However, the chronological limits have been sometimes extended to the thirteenth or fifteenth when so has required the study of history or the typological evolution of a particular garment. The work is based on the study of the major suits outside the garment, called at the time “subiranes”. The most widespread is the “cota”, of which its artistic images have permitted the identification of several typological variants which we have called cota A, cota B, cota C and cota ardia. Beside the cota other external dresses have also been considered such as l'aljuba, el pellot, el curtapeu i el gipó. However, the study also covers internal suits accompanying the outer skirt, such as la gonella, la gonella encordada i la samarra as well as el mantell i la gramalla which were considered coat pieces. The establishment of various types of garments and their evolution into new forms is based on the analysis of documentary sources, literary, archaeological and iconographic. A preferred section of this paper is constituted by the analysis of the sumptuary laws. During the fourteenth century the authorities dictated in several cities and towns throughout Europe several ordinances designed to limit the growing luxury in dressing and the wasteful expending this entailed. Catalan sumptuary laws that have been examined in this study are in Barcelona, Cervera, Majorca and Berga. In short, the clothes became a real code which should not be violated since it established and made recognizable hierarchies and functions. However, while the fourteenth century evolves, the language of dress knows persistent interventions.