Th.--Archéol. / Bibliogr. p. 235-246.

This project explores the dimensional relationship between body and dress through using features of corsetry. Where is the garment tight? Where do we place volume and where do we show skin? This project addresses these questions and the construction of dress through broadening the concept of corsetry. With the vision to improve the relationship between body and dress through exploring new methods for an existing technique. Searching for alternative construction techniques in dress which enhances the circular relationship between body, dress and form. By exploring new working methods that includes the body in the process of constructing garments, the corsetry tools has been used to investigate how the garment stays on the body in terms of how we tighten it to the body and by that also give the garment its shape. The project is practice based and built on concrete experiments. The relationship between body, fabric and form has been explored through working hands on with the material on the own body. The design method was developed in the beginning of the project. Further, it was carried out through using rectangular and tube shaped fabrics together with features of corsetry, mainly focusing on eyelets and lacing. Resulting in both a new method for an existing technique, as well as a result that expresses new possibilities in the composition of the dressed body. It also proposes alternative ways of constructing and wearing garments, where the body and the garment work together.

Orientador: Marizilda dos Santos Menezes / Banca: Patrícia de Mello Sousa / Banca: Roberto Alcarria do Nascimento / Resumo: A indústria têxtil movimenta boa parcela da economia nacional. O segmento da moda é o segundo maior empregador da indústria da transformação. É também o segundo maior gerador de primeiro emprego. O processo de desenvolvimento do produto do vestuário atualmente se adaptou à metodologia do design, para que fosse mais correto, mais organizado e assertivo, reduzindo assim a margem de erros durante todas as suas etapas. Dados confirmam a força de um setor econômico em constante crescimento. Com a finalidade de atender às necessidades do setor muitos cursos superiores de Design de Moda foram criados nas últimas décadas. A modelagem é disciplina essencial, pois é etapa importante no desenvolvimento de novos produtos e determinante para a configuração da peça. A presente pesquisa tem o objetivo de apresentar a possibilidade de utilização adaptada do método de aprendizado baseado em problema no ensino inicial da modelagem. Apoiado na interdisciplinaridade do design o método demonstra ser benéfico ao aluno uma vez que proporciona visão global e capacidade de aprendizado expandida. / Abstract: The textile industry moves a good part of the national economy. The fashion segment is the second largest employer in the manufacturing industry. It is also the second largest generator of first employment. The apparel product development process has now adapted to the design methodology to be more correct, more organized and assertive, thus reducing the margin of error during all of its stages. Data confirms the strength of an ever-growing economic sector. In order to attend the needs of the industry many Fashion Design courses have been created in recent decades. Modeling is an essential discipline because it is an important stage in the development of new products and determinant for the configuration of the piece.The present research has the objective of presenting the possibility of adapted use of problem based learning in the initial teaching of modeling. Based on the interdisciplinary nature of design, the method is beneficial to the student providing a global vision and expanded learning capacity. / Mestre

This thesis examines the close and complex relationship between dress, feminism, and British New Woman novels. It provides in-depth analysis of six New Woman novels and draws comparisons with numerous other works. The case study texts are Olive Schreiner's The Story of an African Farm (1883) and From Man to Man: Or Perhaps Only ... (1926, posthumously), Sarah Grand's Ideala: A Study from Life (1881) and The Heavenly Twins (1893), and Grant Allen's The Woman Who Did (1895) and The Type-Writer Girl (1897). I explore why dress was so important to such novels, and examine the diverse, individual, developing, and shared ways in which authors engaged with dress as a feminist strategy and feminist concern. Areas considered include From Man to Man's use of functional clothes and dress production to celebrate female labour, Grand's interest in both dress reform and dressing to impress, Allen's shift in focus from the white-clad free lover to the sensibly-dressed working woman, and authors' use of deceptively clean clothes to address male immorality and disease. The thesis looks beyond as well as within New Woman narratives, demonstrating that writers, and publishers, were broadly concerned with dress in its various literal and more metaphorical manifestations. Focuses include self-styling, authorial cross-dressing, and bindings. Dress does not, however, always seamlessly support these texts' feminisms, I argue. For example, Grand elevated cross-class feminism, but she belittled middle-class women's taste, side-lined poor women's most pressing sartorial concerns, and dressed to impress. I also stress that dress, being so closely bound up with New Woman novels' feminisms and their ambiguities, is a revealing lens through which to read such texts, and one often capable of prompting re-readings. Attention to Allen's rejection of sartorial realism in parts of The Woman Who Did problematises the dominant conception of this novel as straightforwardly pro-free union, for instance. The thesis, as well as gesturing towards dress's centrality to the production and interpretation of literary feminisms and anti-feminisms broadly, emphasises the importance of dress to New Woman literature and its analysts, and uses dress to provide fresh readings of various novels and genre-wide issues.

A cultura industrial proporcionou uma série de benefícios à sociedade moderna, contudo, impactos ambientais negativos tem sido gerados, em função da exploração inadequada dos recursos naturais do planeta e pela geração excessiva de resíduos. Dentro deste contexto, esta pesquisa possui como foco a indústria de confecção do vestuário no município de Pato branco, e busca evidenciar aspectos relativos à gestão, design, caracterização de matérias-primas e geração de resíduos. Além disso, na tentativa de amenizar o gargalo referente ao correto destino dos resíduos têxteis gerados no processo produtivo, propõe como alternativa o reaproveitamento destes por meio do desenvolvimento de produtos de moda voltados ao público feminino, tais como bolsas e cachecóis. O presente estudo compreendeu três etapas distintas, a primeira, foi composta por um diagnóstico realizado junto às empresas, com o intuito de obter informações referentes aos perfis das mesmas, destacando as formas de gestão, design e desenvolvimento de produto, matérias-primas utilizadas e geração de resíduos têxteis. Tais empresas caracterizam-se como empreendimentos de micro e pequeno porte, atuando em diferentes segmentos de mercado, com forte tendência a produção de uniformes profissionais. Em conseqüência disso, grande parte dos resíduos gerados é constituída por retalhos de malha. Foi evidenciada carência de profissionais qualificados para atuarem tanto nas áreas de criação, desenvolvimento e produção, o que de certa forma constitui um entrave para o crescimento das empresas do município. Na segunda etapa, foi realizada pesquisa com 200 potenciais consumidoras de produtos de moda do município de Pato Branco, buscando verificar as preferências das mesmas em relação à moda, incluindo aspectos como disposição em adquirir produtos confeccionados a partir de resíduos têxteis e técnicas artesanais como tricô, crochê, bordados, fatores estes relevantes para traçar o perfil das consumidoras. Com base nos dados coletados, foram desenvolvidos produtos de moda a partir de resíduos têxteis. Partindo da premissa que o lançamento de produtos ecologicamente corretos requer aceitação cultural e social por parte dos consumidores, na terceira etapa da pesquisa foi realizada avaliação da aceitação dos produtos de moda, empregando-se, de forma inovadora em produtos de moda, a metodologia de avaliação sensorial por escala hedônica e teste de intenção de compra. Foram avaliados atributos técnicos, ergonômicos e estéticos dos produtos. Os produtos desenvolvidos a partir dos resíduos têxteis tiveram boa aceitação e apreciável intenção de compra, demonstrando elevado potencial de reaproveitamento tecnológico dos mesmos. O reaproveitamento dos resíduos poderia contribuir tanto do ponto de vista ambiental através de um melhor direcionamento destes, como economicamente, uma vez que poderiam ser direcionados para a produção de produtos de maior valor agregado. / The industrial culture provided a number of benefits to modern society, however, negative environmental impacts have been generated as a function of inadequate exploration of the planet's natural resources and the excessive generation of waste. According to this context, this study has focused on the clothing apparel industry in Pato Branco city, and tries to reveal aspects of the management, design, characterization of raw materials and waste generation. Furthermore, in an attempt to alleviate the bottleneck regarding the correct disposal of waste generated in the textile production process, proposed as an alternative reuse of these through the development of fashion products aimed at the female audience, such as handbags and scarves. This study involved three distinct stages. The first one was composed of a diagnosis made with the companies in order to obtain information regarding the profiles of the same, highlighting the forms of management, design and product development, raw materials and generation of waste textiles. Such companies are characterized as small and micro enterprises, operating in different market segments, with a strong tendency to produce professional uniforms. As a result, much of the waste generated consists of scraps of fabric. It was evident shortage of qualified professionals to work both in areas of design, development and production, which in some ways an obstacle to the growth of businesses in the city. After that, in a second phase of the study was conducted with 200 potential consumers of fashion products in Pato Branco city, to verify the same preferences related to fashion, including aspects such as willingness to purchase products made from waste textiles and craft techniques such as knitting , crochet, embroidery, factors relevant to profile the consumers. Based on data collected were developed fashion products from waste textiles. Assuming that the launch of environmentally friendly products requires cultural and social acceptance by consumers, the third phase of the study was conducted evaluating the acceptance of fashion products, using, in an innovative fashion products, the methodology hedonic scale for sensory evaluation and testing of intent to purchase. We evaluated the technical attributes, ergonomic and aesthetic products. Products developed from waste textiles had good acceptance and purchase intent appreciable, demonstrating a high potential for reuse of the same technology. The reuse of waste could contribute to both the environmental point of view through better targeting of these, as economically as it could be directed to the production of higher added value.

Thesis (BTech (Fashion Design))--Cape Peninsula University of Technology, 2010 / A research was conducted in order to assist the Young Fuller Figured Women entering and already working in the corporate environment with clothing for the work environment. This research was conducted so that these women may notice a smaller number of incorrect fitting clothes when they shop for formal wear and also to give them guidance on suitable, elegant and stylish clothes for their body size and shape. Two theories namely: 'dress for success' by John Molloy and 'clothing is a code' by Fred Davis were the guidelines jn discovering, understanding and solving the dress problem for the young full figured women. In order to deal with the problem I had to interview some of these women to understand their challenges and frustration regarding dressing suitably for the corporate environment. The results of the interviews showed that the origin of the problem, are the basic block pattems. This was the solution for most of the garment fitting problems that the young fuller figured women experienced daily. A range was designed to serve as an example of how these women can dress for the corporate environment using various suitable fabrics and colours. This range appears formal and yet has a feminine twist to it, making it suitable for the woman who wants to be taken seriously and yet maintain her femininity and elegance. I hope that this research will be a useful tool for the retailers who currently cater for the fuller fIgured women to assist them with the current garment fitting problems and for the designers who plan to enter the fuller figured market: to enter it cautiously and taking the requirements of their potential customers into consideration If the information in this research is applied clothes that the fuller figured women buy will fit correctly the first time and they will not have to pay extra to alter new garments.

Orientador: Carlos Eduardo Albuquerque de Miranda / Dissertação (mestrado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Faculdade de Educação / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-06T08:40:57Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Coppola_GabrielaDomingues_M.pdf: 900605 bytes, checksum: 82590e06c5fe9a43ae3fd7012e90e887 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2006 / Resumo: Através do olhar da câmera cinematográfica, este estudo busca refletir sobre as formas, cortes, tecidos, ambientes e cores que revelam as imagens do vestir como memória e a roupa como narradora efetiva das emoções de quem as veste. A partir do filme ¿Amor à flor da pele" (Wong Kar-Way, 2000), observamos aspectos que revelam os significados do vestir como escolhas visuais, estéticas e políticas. Assim se resume esta pesquisa / Abstract: Through the glance of the cinematographic camera, this study search to contemplate on the forms, cuts, woven, atmospheres and colors that disclose the images of dressing as memory and the clothes as narrator executes of the emotions of who dresses them. Starting from the film "In the mood for love" (Wong Kar-Way, 2000), we observed aspects that reveal the meanings of dressing as visual choices, aesthetics and politics. That¿s the way this research consists / Mestrado / Educação, Conhecimento, Linguagem e Arte / Mestre em Educação

This study was undertaken to investigate the influence of a military counselor s attire on potential clients expressed perceptions of and preferences for a counselor. Ninety volunteer participants were selected from a large southwestern Air Force base. Participants ranged in age from 18 to 46 years, with 68 male and 22 female volunteers. Rank was divided into 69 enlisted personnel (56 males and 13 females) and 21 officers (12 males and 9 females). Three videotapes were made depicting a counselor in three attire conditions: civilian; military officer; and military enlisted. A pilot study was completed which validated the research assumption that the videotapes differed only in the counselor's attire conditions. Participants were randomly assigned to three treatment groups. After each group was shown a videotape portraying the counselor in one of the three attire conditions, the participants were administered the Counselor Rating Form and the Referral Questionaire. The Counselor Rating Form is composed of three scales which assess perceptions of a counselors' trustworthiness, attractiveness, and expertness. The Referral Questionaire assesses subjects preferences to see a specific counselor in the event counseling is desired. Two main hypotheses, each having three subhypotheses, were developed for the study. The first hypothesis compared participants reactions to a counselor in civilian and military attire conditions. The second hypothesis compared participants' reactions to a counselor in two military attire conditions representing officer and enlisted ranks. Data was analyzed by analysis of variance procedures, with Scheffe' methods used, when appropriate, for multiple comparisons of mean scores.

Many companies today are using some form of uniforms for employees. This research is an exploration of the role of uniforms in contributing to the embedding and transmitting of organizational culture. Culture is the experiences and common learning of the organization that results in shared values and beliefs. According to Schein (1985: 14) culture has three levels, namely: artifacts, values, and basic underlying assumptions. The first level of the culture consists of the physical constructs of the organization, and therefore includes the uniforms, which is the focus of this study. Schein (1985: 223) further proposes that culture can be embedded and transmitted through various mechanisms. The research was conducted in the constructivist paradigm, at a tertiary institution of higher learning in Eastern Cape, South Africa. To ensure triangulation, three sources of data were used, namely: documentation; observation; and both individual and focus group interviews. The researcher argues that uniforms played a role in the embedding of the sample organization’s three levels of culture, which were expressed in terms of Hofstede’s (1991: 07) culture dimensions. Firstly, the use of the different uniforms by different groups, as well as the ranking indicated by the uniforms, played a role in embedding the high power distance culture. Secondly, the symbolism of security portrayed by the uniform played a role in embedding the high uncertainty avoidance culture. Thirdly, it was found that the uniform created unity amongst groups, resulting in greater expression of collectivism. Fourthly, the use of sensible and practical uniforms plays a role in embedding the feminine culture where competitiveness is avoided and relationships are nurtured. Lastly, the uniform plays a possible role in transforming the culture from short-term to a long-term orientation that focuses on the future.

Submitted in fulfilment of the requirements for the Degree of Master of Applied Arts in Fashion, Durban University of Technology, Durban, 2017. / The South African pear-shaped Black women’s jeans market has been confronted by fit dissatisfaction, although there is a growing demand for jeans. This study was approached from a viewpoint that jeans do not fit a large population of this consumer group and investigates the issues related to this problem. Local manufacturers and retailers currently use an adaptation of the British sizing system to suit their customer profile. Not much research however, has been carried out on developing a sizing system for the pear-shaped figure type, which makes up a sizeable portion of the population in the country. The intention of the study was to establish key variables for developing a jeans sizing system for Black South African pear-shaped indigenous women. A total of 60 Black women aged 18-35 years at the Cape Peninsula University of Technology were scanned for body measurements using a 3D body scanner. Body measurement differences were examined by using a quantitative research approach to establish the difference between waist and hip measurements. The findings revealed an average drop value of 39cm between waist and hip circumference for a Black pear-shaped figure, in comparison to a drop value of 24cm for a standardised sizing used by the clothing industry. It is recommended that the major stakeholders in South Africa conduct a national anthropometric study to update sizing systems, by using 3D body scanning technology, which provides accurate and consistent measurements of the human body. / M