Submitted by Eliene Soares da Silva (eliene.silva@fgv.br) on 2013-10-01T19:08:54Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Francesco_Losurdo_MPGI_Thesis.pdf: 2639233 bytes, checksum: cb18b52052faaf6ad678917fdbce5ea3 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Eliene Soares da Silva (eliene.silva@fgv.br) on 2013-10-01T19:09:14Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 Francesco_Losurdo_MPGI_Thesis.pdf: 2639233 bytes, checksum: cb18b52052faaf6ad678917fdbce5ea3 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2013-10-01T19:10:42Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Francesco_Losurdo_MPGI_Thesis.pdf: 2639233 bytes, checksum: cb18b52052faaf6ad678917fdbce5ea3 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2013-09-30 / This study aims to develop a comparative analysis of the internationalization potential in Russia and Brazil for Italian SMEs operating in the fashion industry. After introducing the reader to the main areas covered, such as the context, methodology and literature review, a macroeconomic overview of the geographical areas comprised is provided, thus encompassing a specific study on the current status of Italian economy and demand for Italian goods. The study introduces the reader to the Italian fashion industry, its main features and current performance, already evidencing the quest for internationalization. The conclusions arising from the macroeconomic analyses are used as introduction to the overview of the Italian fashion industry, an industry that strongly represents the “Made in Italy” abroad. The analysis of the industry encompassing history, main features and current status will then suggest that internationalization is the most viable way for SMEs to recover from the turbulent years of the crisis. Among the vast set of geographical options that the SMEs may embrace internationalization, this study aims to provide two tangible market analyses: the Russian and the Brazilian fashion industry. The analysis, based on the framework of international responsiveness by Bartlet and Ghoshal (1989), presents the results of a set of researches and interviews conducted in Russia and Brazil, in the form of a comparative analysis of the two target markets. The analysis will evidence market-, cost-, competitive- and legislation drivers that justify the internationalization process in both markets. The results will lead to conclusion and recommendations that the two markets represent two very different opportunities for SMEs of Italian fashion industry. / Este estudo tem como objetivo desenvolver uma análise comparativa do potencial de internacionalização na Rússia e no Brasil para as PME italianas que operam na indústria da moda. Depois de apresentar ao leitor as principais áreas cobertas, tais como, o contexto, a metodologia e revisão da literatura, é fornecido um panorama macroeconômico das áreas geográficas composto, englobando um estudo específico sobre o estado atual da economia e da demanda para os bens italianos. O estudo, introduzindo o leitor na indústria de moda italiana, suas principais características e o desempenho atual, já evidencia a busca pela internacionalização. As conclusões decorrentes das análises macroeconômicas funcionam como introdução à visão geral da indústria de moda italiana, uma indústria que representa, fortemente, o 'Made in Italy' no exterior. A breve análise da história desta indústria, principais características e situação atual irão, então, sugerir que a internacionalização é o caminho mais viável às PME, para se recuperarem dos anos turbulentos da crise. Entre o vasto conjunto de opções geográficas que as PME têm para abraçar internacionalização, este estudo tem como objetivo fornecer duas análises sobre a indústria da moda: o mercado russo e o brasileiro. A análise, com base no quadro de capacidade de ‘resposta internacional’ proposto por Bartlet e Ghoshal (1989), apresenta os resultados de um conjunto de pesquisas e entrevistas realizadas no Brasil, na Itália e na Rússia, sob a forma de uma análise comparativa dos dois mercados-alvo. A análise evidenciará os drivers de mercado, custo, competitividade e legislação que justificam o processo de internacionalização em ambos os mercados. Os resultados levam à conclusão e às recomendações que os dois mercados representam duas oportunidades muito diferentes para as PME da indústria da moda italiana.

在國際時尚舞台中，台灣在過去一直扮演代工的角色：儘管手中握有無與倫比的研發與生產技術，然而報酬率卻遠不及握有「國際品牌」的廠商。 1990年起，台灣以往勞力、技術密集的紡織產業開始走下坡。台灣紡織產業開始面臨勞工短缺、工資上漲，許多低價紡織品在國內生產已無獲利空間；從2000年左右開始，隨著全球化市場發展，中國大陸與東南亞等新興國家陸續崛起，我國紡織產業開始產生外移。2005年，WTO協定生效，取消「紡織貿易配額」，以及全球各地逐漸形成的「區域經濟體」，使得全球紡織產業發生結構性的變化。 近來「美學經濟」指標性產業：「時尚產業」，已經成為亞洲國家積極發展的目標，而政府也大力鼓吹由過去專業代工的「製造經濟」，轉型為以品牌、設計為主的「創意、知識經濟」。2008年國家重點發展計畫中提出「產業高值化」政策，除了研發，強化行銷能力以提升品牌知名度亦是創造高附加價值的重要關鍵。 台灣在本土時裝設計師品牌不少。然而，礙於台灣市場規模，始終無法有大幅的成長。因此，台灣設計師如何進軍國際市場，便成了一個值得深入探討的議題。 本研究結合Csikezentmihalyi創造力系統模式、與設計師日常事業經營，探討本土設計師時裝品牌國際化的動態過程：設計師如何以服裝設計專業、結合創業營運相關知識，不斷與國際時尚界專業人士與買家們溝通互動，進而使其品牌在國際間佔有一席之地。 本研究同時歸納設計師在進軍國際市場時需要哪些能力，以及在進入國際市場不同階段所應注意的管理議題，期望能供業界、後續學術研究參考、指教。 / This research is about how Taiwanese fashion designers market their products internationally. Taiwanese textile companies didn’t have their own brands before. They mainly manufactured and sold products overseas under foreign brand names. However, the textile manufacturing industry in Taiwan has already moved abroad to low-labor-cost area during the past two decades. Taiwanese designer brands have been struggleing between the small domestic market and the competition of foreign brands. I explored three cases of Taiwanese fashion designers who market their brands and products internationally. They are respectively Hong, Li Fen’s designer brand ‘Sophie Hong’, Chien, Yu Feng and Pan, Po Shun’s ‘Shawnyï’, and Chia, Wen Lan’s ‘Twinkle by Wenlan’. I analyzed these cases based on the Creativity Dynamic System Model (Csikezentmihalyi, 1990). First, I discovered how they combine their expertises of fashion design and business management to organize their international network. Second, the abilities a fashion designer has to possess during his way to international fashion market have already been clearly listed and categorized. In the end, I casted several managerial issues the fellow designers should pay attention to in different stages when they try to internationalize their brands and products.