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The Czech fashion industry is constantly in progress and has growth potential. However, it still has significant deficiencies. The thesis focuses on local fashion and its presentation in Czech lifestyle magazines. The primary quantitative research focused on examining the Czech lifestyle fashion magazine's environment and determining in what context and how often these media write about local fashion and its designers. Through the content analysis, the three fashion titles (Vogue CS, Elle, and Harper's Bazaar) were examined during the period between August 2018 and December 2020. The theoretical part of the thesis focuses on the topic introduction, where deals with fashion and fashion journalism evolution. Then, the current situation in both fields is described. The methodological part consists of a theoretical basis, literary review, and research design. Three research questions and four hypotheses were formulated within this paper. Research results suggest that Czech fashion media outputs regarding the local fashion are mostly connected with Mercedes-Benz Prague Fashion Week via online editorial articles.

Made available in DSpace on 2016-07-27T14:18:44Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Lucia Kratz de Souza.pdf: 21026097 bytes, checksum: 2e8d3279b71f24fa23c01d1cd359006f (MD5) Previous issue date: 2010-06-17 / The following study was developed with the purpose of analyzing the universe of the Fashion Designer professional that acts specifically on the clothing market, about his/her trajectory, identity, senses and experiences that concerns to his work. It s a case study of descriptive qualitative and exploratory character, developed with 11 Fashion Designers that act on the market of Goiânia, that tried to raise experiences of pleasure-pain, supported on the psychodynamic approach of work. It used individual interviews, which were interpreted through a graphic analysis of the speech. Its specific goals were: 1) to raise the identity and the trajectory of the Fashion Designer professional, the senses of his/her profession, the meanings of art and market, and the work as a creative process; 2) To raise the experiences of the Fashion Designers in relation to the process of work management, analyzing their organization and their work relationships, their conditions and work time; 3) To raise the subjective mobilization of the workers, analyzing the comprehension of their experiences of pleasure-pain and defensive strategies. In relation to the experiences related to their professional identity, their life trajectories, and the senses given by them at work on the art and market relationship, it can be said that Fashion Design is a field that works for money and that the art takes the domain of symbolic and communicative aspects more into consideration than the manufacture and hand abilities. It is also relevant that art and creation are intimately related, according to the view of the interviewed Designers, and that even though it is published art and not pure art , the identification between the art and the work of the designer is significant and positive, even with the conscience of its productive process. In relation to their work organization, it showed some elements that are common experiences of all the people interviewed that didn t pertain to their functional relation: division of work; division of tasks; division of men (leaderships, leaders, etc.); the existence of instruments of evaluation and of quality patterns; and the discrepancy between the prescribed and the real. On the other hand, it showed the lack of standards and patterns of formal procedures; the existence of a long and structured productive process; the high necessity of group/team work; and that they are submitted to an elevated degree of personal judgment, from the company s and from the client s point of view. Among the autonomous and the employed ones, we noticed experiences that are differentiated and not represented by the enterpriser or owners of their own business, as: to deal with the companies that focus on the result rather than on the technical process, and the difficulty to make the owner of the company aware of the real work developed by the Fashion Designer. Now, on what concerns the experiences of the workers subjective mobilization, they are used to minimize their pain, the defensive ideology through contradictory speech. About the pleasure experiences, it shows that the activity of creating fashion is the source of pleasure and the task itself provides balance over the psychological burden, because they are recognized in their own work. This activity, in its own experience is recognized as creative, not overly alienating, producing pleasure. The data showed that the sublimation process experienced by the interviewed participants, that through the freedom of creation, they can deal in a healthy way with the difficulties faced in this field of work. The psychodynamic and the theories related to work, to the creativity and to the Fashion Designer universe proved to be appropriate, relating the process of creation and art with the demands of the consumer market and with the professional practice. It is expected that the understanding and analysis of this study might help the fashion organizations to make strategic choices that allow better results for their teams of collaborators, especially for their Designers. It is also expected that this work might contribute to the humanistic field, on what concerns the psychodynamic work, specifically the psychology / O presente estudo foi desenvolvido com o objetivo de analisar os Designers de Moda, que atuam especificamente na moda vestuária, no que diz respeito à sua trajetória, identidade, sentidos atribuídos ao seu trabalho. Trata-se de um estudo de caso de caráter descritivo e exploratório, desenvolvido com 11 Designers de Moda que atuam no mercado goiano, sendo classificados em três categorias: os autônomos, os funcionários e os empreendedores. Buscouse levantar suas vivências relacionadas ao trabalho, apoiado na abordagem psicodinâmica do trabalho. Seus objetivos específicos foram: 1) Levantar a identidade e a trajetória profissional do Designer de Moda, os sentidos que atribuem à sua profissão, à arte e ao mercado, assim como, seu trabalho como processo criativo. 2) Levantar as vivências dos Designers de Moda em relação ao processo de gestão do trabalho, analisando sua organização, relações, condições de trabalho. 3) Levantar a mobilização subjetiva dos trabalhadores, analisando suas vivências de prazer, sofrimento e estratégias defensivas. Utilizou-se de entrevistas individuais, que foram analisados pela análise gráfica do discurso. No que diz respeito às vivências relacionadas à sua identidade profissional, sua trajetória de vida, e os sentidos atribuídos por eles ao trabalho e em relação à arte e ao mercado, evidenciou-se que a profissão de Designer de Moda serve ao capital e que a arte privilegia mais o domínio de aspectos simbólicos e comunicativos do que as habilidades manuais e artesanais. A arte e a criação estão intimamente relacionadas, na visão dos Designers entrevistados, e que embora seja arte publicada e não arte pura ocorreu a identificação entre a arte e o trabalho do designer. Em relação à organização do trabalho, evidenciaram-se alguns elementos comuns às vivências de todos os entrevistados independente da sua relação funcional: a divisão do trabalho; a divisão das tarefas; a divisão das pessoas (chefias, lideranças, etc); a existência de instrumentos avaliativos e de padrões de qualidade; e a defasagem entre o trabalho prescrito e o real. Por outro lado, evidenciou-se a ausência de normas e padrões de procedimentos formalizados; a existência de um processo produtivo longo e estruturado; a alta demanda por trabalho em grupo/equipe; e o fato de estarem submetidas a um julgamento pessoal, da empresa e do cliente. Em relação às categorias funcionais dos autônomos e empregados, existem vivências um pouco diferenciadas e não representadas pela categoria dos empreendedores ou donos dos seus próprios negócios, como: lidar com as empresas com foco mais no resultado do que no processo técnico, e a dificuldade de conscientização do proprietário da empresa sobre o real trabalho do Designer de Moda. Quanto às vivências de prazer, evidenciou-se que a atividade de criar moda é fonte de prazer e a tarefa em si proporciona equilíbrio sobre a carga psíquica, pois eles se reconhecem no próprio trabalho. Essa atividade é reconhecida como criativa, não excessivamente alienadora e produtora de prazer. Os dados evidenciaram o processo de sublimação vivenciado pelos entrevistados, que através da liberdade de criação, conseguem lidar de forma saudável com as dificuldades enfrentadas neste campo de trabalho. Já com relação à mobilização subjetiva dos trabalhadores, estes utilizam, para minimizar seu sofrimento, a ideologia defensiva através de discurso ideológico que camufla as contradições. A psicodinâmica e as teorias relacionadas ao trabalho, à criatividade e ao universo do Designer de Moda contribuíram para a análise das interfaces entre o processo de criação e arte com as demandas do mercado consumidor e com a prática profissional. A análise deste estudo pode auxiliar as organizações de moda na escolha de estratégias que possibilitem melhores resultados para suas equipes, em especial para os seus Designers.

This Master's Thesis deals with the Czech fashion scene. Development of fashion is outlined in the introduction. It should help to understand the whole market. The work deals with marketing of fashion brands and focuses primarily on marketing Czech fashion brands offering fashions for women. Czech fashion scene is analyzed in detail and pointed out the weaknesses that need to be improved. In connection with the findings outlined here is a solution that should help Czech fashion scene.

Made available in DSpace on 2014-07-29T16:27:47Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Maristela Abadia Fernandes Novaes.pdf: 1239708 bytes, checksum: f5acc60fb2c956df61fdf777aa95ec56 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2011-03-28 / In this research, I analyze a process of a teaching/learning activity in modeling on stones developed with Fashion Design students of the School of Visual Arts of The Federal University of Goiás as part of the signature Plane and Tridimensional Modeling I. This activity is intended to offer the students an opportunity to experiment and reflect on the modeling process and its relationship with support (body/stone), material and methods in the construction of clothes. The research presents a historical overview of methods for plane and Tridimensional modeling, describes the construction of pedagogical clothing objects - modeling of fabric in stones and reflects on the perceptions and meanings of this experience for future designers. The methodology used is action research, a perspective that guided the understanding and interpretation of these perceptions examining its impact and contribution to the training of designers. / Nessa pesquisa, analiso o processo de desenvolvimento de uma atividade de ensinoaprendizagem de modelagem de tecido em pedras, realizada com alunos do Curso de Design de Moda da FAV/UFG, na disciplina de Modelagem Plana e Tridimensional I. Essa atividade tem o intuito de levar o aluno a experimentar e refletir sobre o processo de modelagem e sobre relações entre suporte (corpo/pedra), material e métodos na construção de roupas. A pesquisa apresenta uma revisão histórica dos métodos de modelagem plana e tridimensional, descreve a proposta pedagógica de construção de objetos vestimentários modelagem de tecido em pedras - e reflete sobre percepções e sentidos dessa experiência para futuros designers. A metodologia usada é a pesquisa-ação, perspectiva que orientou a compreensão e interpretação destas percepções examinando sua contribuição e impactos para a formação de designers.

在國際時尚舞台中，台灣在過去一直扮演代工的角色：儘管手中握有無與倫比的研發與生產技術，然而報酬率卻遠不及握有「國際品牌」的廠商。 1990年起，台灣以往勞力、技術密集的紡織產業開始走下坡。台灣紡織產業開始面臨勞工短缺、工資上漲，許多低價紡織品在國內生產已無獲利空間；從2000年左右開始，隨著全球化市場發展，中國大陸與東南亞等新興國家陸續崛起，我國紡織產業開始產生外移。2005年，WTO協定生效，取消「紡織貿易配額」，以及全球各地逐漸形成的「區域經濟體」，使得全球紡織產業發生結構性的變化。 近來「美學經濟」指標性產業：「時尚產業」，已經成為亞洲國家積極發展的目標，而政府也大力鼓吹由過去專業代工的「製造經濟」，轉型為以品牌、設計為主的「創意、知識經濟」。2008年國家重點發展計畫中提出「產業高值化」政策，除了研發，強化行銷能力以提升品牌知名度亦是創造高附加價值的重要關鍵。 台灣在本土時裝設計師品牌不少。然而，礙於台灣市場規模，始終無法有大幅的成長。因此，台灣設計師如何進軍國際市場，便成了一個值得深入探討的議題。 本研究結合Csikezentmihalyi創造力系統模式、與設計師日常事業經營，探討本土設計師時裝品牌國際化的動態過程：設計師如何以服裝設計專業、結合創業營運相關知識，不斷與國際時尚界專業人士與買家們溝通互動，進而使其品牌在國際間佔有一席之地。 本研究同時歸納設計師在進軍國際市場時需要哪些能力，以及在進入國際市場不同階段所應注意的管理議題，期望能供業界、後續學術研究參考、指教。 / This research is about how Taiwanese fashion designers market their products internationally. Taiwanese textile companies didn’t have their own brands before. They mainly manufactured and sold products overseas under foreign brand names. However, the textile manufacturing industry in Taiwan has already moved abroad to low-labor-cost area during the past two decades. Taiwanese designer brands have been struggleing between the small domestic market and the competition of foreign brands. I explored three cases of Taiwanese fashion designers who market their brands and products internationally. They are respectively Hong, Li Fen’s designer brand ‘Sophie Hong’, Chien, Yu Feng and Pan, Po Shun’s ‘Shawnyï’, and Chia, Wen Lan’s ‘Twinkle by Wenlan’. I analyzed these cases based on the Creativity Dynamic System Model (Csikezentmihalyi, 1990). First, I discovered how they combine their expertises of fashion design and business management to organize their international network. Second, the abilities a fashion designer has to possess during his way to international fashion market have already been clearly listed and categorized. In the end, I casted several managerial issues the fellow designers should pay attention to in different stages when they try to internationalize their brands and products.

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