電影《購物狂的異想世界》中麗貝卡的消費情境揭示當代消費者追求時尚以表達自我認同的普遍現象。不同於社會學傳統將時尚現象貶抑為脫序行為的輕視，本研究欲探討消費社會中的時尚實作，再思「社會秩序如何可能」的古典問題。本研究基於Benjamin對時尚的現代性考察，假設新社會秩序的理論模型為「消費社會=時尚+拜物教性質」。據此假說，本研究主張兩大論點：首先，消費社會中的時尚實作是一種社會模控機制，具有穩定社會秩序的功能。其次，有別於拜物教的常識與科學認識，物神實際上扮演著社會秩序的中介角色。 本研究的具體分析目標有三：第一，釐清Simmel、Bourdieu、Bauman時尚社會學的理論意涵以便確立分析框架，並進而指出三者錯失的社會場景。第二，將時尚社會學常用的「階級性」和「個體性」這兩個分析概念操作化，並從社會歷史到個人心理的經驗現象層面漸次闡明消費社會中「拚行頭」和「風格穿搭」的時尚實作。第三，重新梳理「原始社會拜物教」、「商品拜物教」與「精神分析戀物癖」的概念歷史，並將此概念組應用到時尚現象中進行拜物教性質的詮釋。承上述，研究結果發現，消費社會的秩序已脫離社會契約論與社會互動論等觀點，改以物神誘惑時尚主體的新形式進行社會整合。換句話說，消費者在時尚遊戲中同時扮演主人與奴隸的矛盾角色；不過，本研究最終又提問拜物教作為政治策略的可能性，以便為將來的研究提供方向。 / In the film Confessions of a Shopaholic, Rebecca is addicted to the overconsumption of fashionable clothes and shoes. Her singular case reveals an universal phenomenon of the consumer society in which consumers pursue fashion as an expression of self-identity. In counter to the conventional sociological dismissal of fashion to individual anomic behaviors, this thesis seeks to explore the logic of practice of fashion in the consumer society with an aim to rethink the classical question of social order. After being initiated into Benjamin's enchanting world of fashion, the thesis hypothesizes a theoretical model of the new social order which may be formulated as "Consumer society = Fashion + Property of Fetishism". Based on this hypothesis, the thesis puts forward two lines of arguments. Above all, practices of fashion in the consumer society are an integral part of cybernetic control in the maintenance of social order. Subsequently, the notion of fetish should be severed from conceptions of substance or subject prevalent in commonsense as well as scientific understanding, and reconceived as playing a medating role in the structuring and restructuring of society. The thesis is organized around three objects of analysis. First,we clarify dominant sociological accounts of fashion in the works of Simmel, Bourdieu and Bauman to outline an analytical framework whilst questioning the social-historical scenes those theoretical perspectives have possibly missed. Second, we operationalize the analytical notions of "social class" and "individuality" within social settings of fashion known as "dress to compete" and "dress in style", and then expound these widespread empirical phenomena of fashion by means of social history as well as individual psychology. Third, we review the conceptual development of "primitive fetishism ", "commodity fetishism" and "sexual fetishism" in relevant intellectual histories, and then apply the conceptual triad to the reinterpretation of fashion as a social phenomenon imbued with the practical property of fetishism. As a result, the thesis finds that the question of order in the consumer society is radically different from what the proponents of social contract and symbolic interaction have usually conceived. Instead, contemporary society mobilizes various mechanisms of fetishism to seduce consumer subjects so that they can actively contribute to social integration. In other words, a consumer is both master and slave in the game of fashion; nevertheless, this thesis ponders on the final possibility of fetishism as a political strategy, a heuristic question which might lead to future research.

<p>The 19th century is often described as a period when sexual differences were strongly accentuated in medical interpretations. While this is not an inaccurate description, it is in need of greater nuance. For one thing, notions of the male are usually forgotten in the process. As the female body by the shift to the 18th hundreds, to a greater extent than before, became associated with reproduction and biological constraints of various kinds, representations of the male body also changed. According to medical texts published in Sweden in the 19th century, men’s blood, bones, breath and digestion bore witness to their "freedom" from a forced sexual body. Physically, the male constituted an abstract, cultivated and highly differentiated individual, focused on his own development and wellbeing. The male body was described as clearly fit for public and political life, which legitimized male claims to a monopoly on power as well as the doctrine of "the separate spheres" in 19th century bourgeois society. </p><p>But there is more to this story. A closer examination of more limited discussions in medical texts and advice literature reveal that representations of the male and female body were remarkably unstable and marked by tensions and contradictions. During the Romantic era of medicine in Sweden during the 1830’s and 40’s, the way sex and individuality in the body were valued were totally different from the description above. Reproduction and physical desires were characteristic, according to a number of medical men, of highly developed creatures, connected to God, society, and culture, whereas sexless species, immature children and "lower" peoples were seen as materialistic and focused only on their own individual development. Discussions regarding female puberty and single men further reveal the unstable polarization between sex and individuality as well as culturally constructed differences, not only between men and women, but also between classes, age groups, single and married persons, cultivated and non-cultivated peoples. Notions about nature/culture, tradition/progress, female/male, sex/individuality were not organized into stable dichotomies—rather they constituted an unstable body of representations. </p>

The 19th century is often described as a period when sexual differences were strongly accentuated in medical interpretations. While this is not an inaccurate description, it is in need of greater nuance. For one thing, notions of the male are usually forgotten in the process. As the female body by the shift to the 18th hundreds, to a greater extent than before, became associated with reproduction and biological constraints of various kinds, representations of the male body also changed. According to medical texts published in Sweden in the 19th century, men’s blood, bones, breath and digestion bore witness to their "freedom" from a forced sexual body. Physically, the male constituted an abstract, cultivated and highly differentiated individual, focused on his own development and wellbeing. The male body was described as clearly fit for public and political life, which legitimized male claims to a monopoly on power as well as the doctrine of "the separate spheres" in 19th century bourgeois society. But there is more to this story. A closer examination of more limited discussions in medical texts and advice literature reveal that representations of the male and female body were remarkably unstable and marked by tensions and contradictions. During the Romantic era of medicine in Sweden during the 1830’s and 40’s, the way sex and individuality in the body were valued were totally different from the description above. Reproduction and physical desires were characteristic, according to a number of medical men, of highly developed creatures, connected to God, society, and culture, whereas sexless species, immature children and "lower" peoples were seen as materialistic and focused only on their own individual development. Discussions regarding female puberty and single men further reveal the unstable polarization between sex and individuality as well as culturally constructed differences, not only between men and women, but also between classes, age groups, single and married persons, cultivated and non-cultivated peoples. Notions about nature/culture, tradition/progress, female/male, sex/individuality were not organized into stable dichotomies—rather they constituted an unstable body of representations.

Peculiarities of the expression of artistic individuality of future teachers are analysed in the dissertation. Problem of the investigation has been formulated: in what way and what impact the musical activity can exert on artistic individuality of future music teachers and to what extent this impact can be optimised. The model of the expression of artistic individuality of future music teachers has been created and substantiated both theoretically and empirically. The model encompasses the components of reflexivity, creativity, high artistic value and responsibility. Manifestations of artistic individuality in musical activity of future teachers and the level of expression of these manifestations, interrelations between components of artistic individuality and their dependence on the external factors (the type of higher education institution that provides different musical education (university, non-university) and the year the students are in, as well as internal factors (musical abilities, artistic experiences and recognition of the significance of values) have been revealed by the diagnostic examination. Statistically significant changes in the expression of artistic individuality of future music teachers have been determined and strategies for developing the expression of artistic individuality of future music teachers have been brought out and tested in the course of the education project. On the basis of the data of the research work the basic brought out strategies... [to full text] / Disertacijoje analizuojami būsimų muzikos mokytojų meninės individualybės raiškos muzikinėje veikloje ypatumai. Iškelta mokslinė problema: kaip ir kokią įtaką muzikinė veikla gali daryti būsimų muzikos mokytojų meninei individualybei ir kiek šią įtaką įmanoma optimizuoti. Sudarytas ir teoriškai bei empiriškai pagrįstas būsimų muzikos mokytojų meninės individualybės raiškos modelis, apimantis refleksyvumo (išreiškiamo per muzikos interpretavimo autentiškumą, savo gebėjimų vertinimą ir savo orumo jautimą), kūrybiškumo (per muzikos interpretavimo originalumą, vertinimų savitumą ir išgyvenimų intensyvumą), meniškumo (per muzikos interpretavimo harmoningumą, vertinimų gilumą ir išgyvenimų estetiškumą) ir atsakingumo (per prisiėmimą atsakomybės už muzikos kūrinių interpretavimą, vertinimų dorovingumą ir pareigos jautimą) komponentus. Atlikus diagnostinį tyrimą atskleista būsimų muzikos mokytojų meninės individualybės muzikinėje veikloje apraiškos, jų tarpusavio sąsajos, raiškos lygis, priklausomybė nuo išorinių (aukštosios mokyklos tipo ir studentų kurso) bei vidinių (muzikiniai gebėjimai, meniniai išgyvenimai ir vertybių reikšmingumo pripažinimas) veiksnių. Atlikto ugdymo projekto metu atskleisti meninės individualybės raiškos pokyčiai ir pagrįstos būsimų muzikos mokytojų meninės individualybės raiškos plėtojimo strategijos. Remiantis atlikto disertacinio tyrimo rezultatais, pateiktos rekomendacijos pedagogams muzikos mokytojų rengimo praktikoje taikyti praktiškai patikrintas... [toliau žr. visą tekstą]

A globalizing world is replete with the vulnerable, who are experiencing economic poverty, medical maltreatment, political persecution, and/or cultural misrecognition. The vulnerable are under systematic oppression and domination. Although the wealth of humankind increases continuously, many are excluded from any benefit of this increased wealth. While human beings have achieved significant progress in medical technology, uncountable numbers of people are exposed to a shortage of appropriate medical care. Despite continued expansion of democracy around the globe, the powerless majority and minorities are experiencing ignorance of their differences, culturally and/or politically. This dissertation searches for a viable human rights scheme that will effectively address the systematic oppression and domination of the vulnerable. By addressing oppression and domination of the vulnerable, I focus on overcoming several dichotomies: a dichotomy between transcendence and immanence within human beings, a dichotomy between equality and difference among human beings, and a dichotomy between individual differences and group differences. Those dichotomies have been detrimental to addressing systematic oppression and domination of the vulnerable. With relation to the dichotomy between transcendence and immanence within human beings, I frame the vulnerable as concrete others who have both transcendental dimensions and immanent dimensions. In terms of the dichotomy between equality and difference, my proposal is equality that substantially promotes difference, that is, capability equality and least-gap equality. With regard to the dichotomy between individual difference and group difference, my proposal is multiculturalism based on social individuality. These proposals for overcoming aforementioned dichotomies converge on social multiculturalism. I have argued that equality between groups and equality within groups can best address oppression and domination of concrete others. Specifically, reconfigured basic income guarantee, which includes basic income, public education, public healthcare, and linguistic diversity, is a concrete form of equality within groups that is conducive to promoting equality between groups. Therefore, I think that social multiculturalism based on the reconfigured basic income guarantee is a new, viable version of addressing oppression and domination of the vulnerable.

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