This project places itself in the area of Textile Design, relief patterns and weaving. The project drives from an interest of not taking design so seriously, letting it be playful and maybe slightly meaningless, in terms of functionality. This design is not something that is needed, neither a problem-solving design. Rather, the intention is to investigate how the design would be saturated in a context where it would be something unpractical and extra. Extra as something that is not necessary. With the aim of the project is to explore texture and volume by designing tactile relief patterns through the combination of Jacquard weaving and hand painting. The process consists of experimenting in the Jacquard: weaving in undyed yarns to create form through bindings and material. The woven textiles are then painted with a mix of pigment and water to highlight or distort the form of the weave. The outcome of the study is a collection of several pieces, where volume, texture, and tactile patterns are explored. This work contributes to the field of textile design by displaying a possibility to use a hands-on step in the Jaquard process, as well as the appearance of the hand: aquarelle look and a clear hand brush that is not possible using dyed yarns.

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Made available in DSpace on 2016-04-28T14:16:31Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Eli Banks Liberato da Costa.pdf: 3915428 bytes, checksum: b33b577152124adaba06856e2e5a3e03 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2008-04-23 / The computers programming activity has its origins preceding the existence of the machine itself. Taking as a starting point the invention of the french silkweaver Joseph-Marie Jacquard, who built in the beginning of the 19th Century a programmable loom, using punched-cards, this paper intends to show the relations between the loom mechanical programming activity and the actual computers programming. Through the analisis of articles published in important periodicals of the 19th Century, not yet explored in the history of information technology studies, we comment some debates and repercussions that followed Jacquard s invention. We also work with some modifications that occurred in that programmable machine, mainly in the area of punched-cards. Among others, we analyse the works of the british Charles Babbage in the 19th Century and Herman Hollerith at the end of 19th Century, seeking verification of how Jacquard s ideas spread when applied in other activities with no relation with the weaver s work. Therefore this paper intends to contribute for the history of information technology studies by the analisis of the origins of some concepts that still remain basics to this field of science nowadays / A atividade de programação dos computadores tem origens que antecedem a existência dessa máquina. Tomando como ponto de partida o invento do tecelão francês Joseph-Marie Jacquard, que no início do século XIX construiu um tear programável que usava cartões perfurados, este trabalho procura mostrar relações da programação mecânica do tear com a programação dos computadores atuais. A partir da análise de artigos publicados em relevantes periódicos do século XIX, estes ainda pouco explorados nos estudos de história da informática, são comentados alguns debates e repercussões decorrentes da divulgação do invento de Jacquard. Destacam-se também algumas modificações introduzidas nessa máquina programável, especialmente no que se refere aos cartões perfurados. Foram também analisados entre outros, o trabalho do inglês Charles Babbage em meados do século XIX, e posteriormente do norte-americano Herman Hollerith no final desse mesmo século, procurando verificar como as idéias de Jacquard estenderam-se à medida que passaram a ser utilizadas em outras atividades que nada tinham a ver com o processo de tecelagem. Portanto, este trabalho pretende contribuir para o estudo da história da informática por meio da análise das origens de alguns conceitos que continuam a fundamentar esse campo do conhecimento até os dias de hoje

La technique du tissage consiste à créer un entrecroisement de fils perpendiculaires entre eux. Pour cela, il est nécessaire d'insérer un fil de trame à travers une nappe de fils de chaîne parallèles. L'étape de formation de la foule, consistant à séparer la nappe de chaîne pour libérer un espace d'insertion, est vecteur d'interactions interfilamentaires et de dommages induits dans la structure filamentaire. Un tel phénomène, rapporté au tissage de renforts de matériaux composites produit des dégradations de structure importantes et une diminution sensible des propriétés mécaniques du produit fini. Dans le contexte de la croissance du marché des matériaux composites haute performance à renforts tissés, il est nécessaire d'améliorer puis de maîtriser le procédé de tissage. Ainsi, pour optimiser le tissage d'étoffes multicouches à haute densité, nous disposons d’une machine Jacquard. Il s'agit d'une technique qui permet un pilotage individuel motorisé des fils de chaîne et qui offre des paramètres de foule particuliers. Le but de ces travaux sont d'étudier ces paramètres d'une part et de définir et analyser leurs effets sur le processus de tissage par ailleurs. Nous utilisons pour ces travaux du polyester multifilamentaire, ainsi qu'un dispositif de tissage particulier adapté au tissage technique multicouches. Nous constatons que le tissage multicouches de forte densité génère de nombreux frottements interfilamentaires qui dégradent les fils en provoquant de la fibrillation. L'observation de l'évolution de ce phénomène selon les différents paramètres Jacquard, permet tout d'abord de mieux le comprendre et le cerner. Elle permet ensuite de déterminer les configurations de tissage optimales pour assurer la qualité du tissage de renforts tissés. / Weaving basic structure is an orthogonally interlaced yarns plane, produced thanks to weft insertion across parallel warp yarns. Shedding is a major step for shed generation by warp yarns separation. Shedding may generate warp yarns interactions and yarn structure degradations because of density. Such a phenomenon becomes major with composite high density woven reinforcement where degradations and final product mechanical properties loss may become considerable. With high performance composites market growth, weaving process needs to be improved.A Jacquard shedding mechanism has been employed for high density multilayer woven fabric weaving optimization, as this technique enables warp yarns individual motorized driving with very particular shedding parameters. In this research, Jacquard shedding parameters have been studied so that their effects on the weaving process may be brought to light, with a specific weaving machine dedicated to multilayer weaving, where polyester multifilament yarns are used.It has been observed that high density multilayer weaving produces friction and many degradations during shedding between filaments because of the fibrillation phenomenon. Fibrillation has been examined and understood thanks to the observation of its evolution according to Jacquard shedding parameters. It has been the basis for optimal weaving parameter configurations which may be used for woven reinforcements composites quality improvement.

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Da Gama Textiles, based in the Eastern Cape has seen its sales of Jacquard products being affected in recent years by cheaper imported products. A study was required to enable its senior management to develop a branding strategy for its Jacquard products. In addition, senior managers required information about how to take advantage of the 2010 World Cup. Data collection was conducted in July to September 2009, using two population groups. The first one was bed and breakfast managers in KwaZulu-Natal, with the second one being top ten Jacquard customers by volume in South Africa. Results showed that awareness levels for Da Gama’s Jacquard products are low, although more than half of respondents would be willing to receive literature from Da Gama in the future relating to Jacquard products. Among the top ten customers, loyalty levels were found to be high, however customers were not satisfied with Da Gama’s price levels and felt that designs and delivery lead times could be improved. A suggested branding strategy was drafted, targeting both population groups. A strategy to build brand awareness and brand loyalty levels was suggested for bed and breakfast managers, while a strategy to improve brand loyalty levels was suggested for the top ten customers. / Business Administration / M. Tech. (Business Administration)

Silk-weaving in Sweden during the 19th century. Textiles and texts - An evaluation of the source material. With the rich material available, 19th century silk-weaving invites to studies on industrialisation processes. The purpose of this licentiate thesis is to present and discuss an empirical material regarding silk production in Sweden in the 19th century, to examine the possibilities and problems of different kinds of materials when used as source materials, and to describe how this material can be systematized and analysed in relation to the perspective of a textile scientific interpretation. The introductory sections of the thesis provide a background to textile research and the subject of textile science. This is followed by an overview of previous research on silk-weaving in Sweden and a historical overview of silk-weaving in Sweden, the Jacquard machine, and the K.A. Almgren Sidenväveri, where large parts of the source material have been preserved. After these overviews, the research material is described and systematized: first the main materials, textiles, machines and other objects, and then the various written sources. By way of conclusion, the empirical material is summarized in a critical discussion where the various groups of materials are evaluated in comparison to one another. A discussion on theory and methodology regarding objects as sources and the use of experience-based knowledge in academic research is developed in connection to the critical discussion. Finally, the potential of the material is demonstrated through a textile example. The presentation is an introduction to the cultural-historical analysis that will follow in the PhD thesis. Here, the empirical material will be analysed through the use of knowledge in handicrafts, which may create new dimensions of silk production in Sweden and the complexity of the industrialisation process.

Le but du travail est de montrer la faisabilité du tissage de filament de très faible diamètre (de l'ordre de 10 à 25 -tm) et de matières différentes (cuivre, or, polyester...). Les essais du comportement mécanique (traction, fatigue) du micro filament de cuivre ont montré la possibilité du tissage de ce type du filament à cette échelle. A partir de ces résultats, il est possible d'entrevoir des solutions techniques de tissage pour réaliser des tissus à partir de ces filaments. Ce travail a permis donc de concevoir les différentes parties de la machine de micro tissage : système d'alimentation des fils de chame, système de formation de la foule, système d'insertion du fil de trame, système de mouvement du peigne, système d'appel et de stockage du tissu. Le système de formation de la foule de type Jacquard représente le cœur de la machine à tisser. Il lève un verrou technologique persistant depuis de très nombreuses années. Les résultats prometteurs des micros actionneurs fluidiques ont permis de montrer la faisabilité du micro tissage. Ils ont permis également de valider le procédé de la fabrication d'un bloc des plusieurs actionneurs capable de séparer les filaments de chaîne pour former la foule. Le logiciel de contrôle et de dessin conçu permet à la fois de réaliser des armures et de les compiler en format convenable pour pouvoir les transmettre à la carte de contrôle. Cette dernière permet de contrôler les différentes parties de la machine à tisser.

The character of woven textiles is dependent on both the materials and the loom technology used. While digitally-controlled jacquard looms are a major development in weaving technology, they have mostly been used in developing representational and pictorial weaving. Such three-dimensional weaving as exists, utilises materials in predictably similar ways. Here, through systematic experimentation, three shrinking and two resisting yarns have been combined in multi-layer weaves in order to explore their potential for form-generating behaviour. Three-dimensional form occurs when the shrinking yarn/s place the resisting yarn/s under tension. To relieve this tension, the resisting yarn moves within the weave, creating waves or folds. The resulting form is highly sensitive to variation, demonstrating emergent behaviour, and identifying the woven textile as a complex system. Demonstrating the variety of form possible from a limited number of materials, the results represent a small body of work aiming to re-form weaving. The exploration of synergistic material combinations is therefore shown to be an exercise of value to fields from art textiles through to industry. It demonstrates that there is great development potential in woven textiles. Understanding the behaviour of materials is fundamental to furthering form-based weaving.