Hides and skins used as a raw material for leather manufacture may be contaminated with various microbial species including potential pathogens. Many bacterial species such as Bacillus, Staphylococcus, Micrococcus and Pseudomonas were isolated from raw hides/skins, and hides/skins at different stages of leather making process. The extreme environmental conditions present during a conventional tanning process due to hazardous chemicals may prevent the growth of bacteria present on hides/skins. On the other hand, partial or total replacement of the hazardous chemicals with non-hazardous chemicals, during a best available technologies (BAT) process, may provide suitable conditions for microbial growth in tannery effluent and hides/skins. Therefore, the aim of the project was to determine the survival and growth of the various bacterial species during the conventional and BAT leather-making processes. The beamhouse and tanning stages were studied, as the majority of the environmental pollution occurs during the early stages of the leather making process. Both the pre-soaking and soaking stages during the conventional and BAT leather-making processes provided suitable conditions for bacterial (Bacillus cereus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Staphylococcus spp.) growth and proliferation. The results showed a significant reduction in the number of B. cereus found during the conventional and BAT unhairing processes. Limited B. cereus growth was observed during the subsequent reliming process. Bacillus cereus growth also occurred during the deliming and bating processes (conventional and BAT), followed by a decrease during the conventional and BAT pickling processes. No B. cereus colonies were isolated during the chrome tanning process. Growth of P. aeruginosa was inhibited during both the unhairing and reliming stages of the conventional and BAT leather making processes. A reappearance and recovery of P. aeruginosa in the subsequent deliming and bating (conventional and BAT) processes, indicated that deliming and bating processes may provide suitable growth conditions for P. aeruginosa. On the other hand, both the conventional and BAT pickling processes, and the chrome tanning processes hindered P. aeruginosa growth. Staphylococcus spp. were present throughout the conventional and BAT leather-making processes. A large reduction in the number of Staphylococcus spp. was observed during the unhairing and reliming processes (conventional and BAT). Growth of Staphylococcus spp. occurred during the subsequent deliming, bating, pickling and chrome tanning stages for both the conventional and BAT leather-making processes. The biochemical assays for bacterial identification confirmed the presence of B. cereus, P. aeruginosa and Staphylococcus spp. during the leather processing. The pulsed-field gel electrophoresis (PFGE) method of DNA fingerprinting confirmed that the bacterial species isolated during the leather manufacturing processes were the inoculated B. cereus and P. aeruginosa, and no alteration of the DNA of above-mentioned bacteria occurred during the processing. Overall, the research showed that bacterial species are capable of surviving during both the conventional and BAT leather-manufacturing processes. The bacterial species prefer the environmental conditions during the pre-soaking and soaking processes, while the unhairing and reliming processes did not favour the growth of bacterial species. Bacterial colonies were enumerated during the deliming and bating processes indicating that the unhairing and reliming processes did not cause total destruction of the bacterial cells. Alternatively pickling and chrome tanning processes were found to have suppressed the growth of bacterial colonies.

Este trabalho apresenta uma alternativa para a reciclagem dos resíduos de cromo da Indústria do Curtume incorporando-os na formulação de pigmentos cerâmicos. Inicialmente o resíduo de cromo foi tratado sendo realizada a extração de sais solúveis, cloretos, sulfatos, carbonatos e posterior calcinação para a eliminação de matéria-orgânica, tornando assim, viável sua utilização como pigmentos. Os ensaios realizados utilizaram as seguintes técnicas: fluorescência de raios X, espectroscopia por emissão de plasma atômico, espectrofotometria com difenilcarbazida, análises termodiferencial e termogravimétrica, difração de raios X, eletroforese capilar e microscopia eletrônica de varredura. Através destas análises foram feitos estudos das composições de pigmentos que favoreçam a incorporação do cromo a vidrados cerâmicos. A incorporação foi avaliada por testes de lixiviação ácida e identificação por eletroforese capilar e absorção atômica, confirmando teores abaixo dos limites especificados pela norma NBR10004. Foi possível incorporar até 10% do resíduo de cromo na produção de vidrados cerâmicos, resultando em boas características de cor e textura no vidrado final, mostrando o grande potencial de reciclagem dos resíduos de cromo da indústria do curtume como pigmentos cerâmicos. / In this work, an alternative for recycling the chromium waste from the leather industry, incorporating it to formulations of ceramic pigments was studied. Firstly, the characterization of chromium waste was performed, as well as the extraction of soluble salts, chlorides, sulfates, ad carbonates. After that, the calcination, for the elimination of the organic matter to turn viable the use of the waste as ceramic pigments was performed. The various stages were evaluated by: X-ray Fluorescence, Inductively Coupled Plasma-Atomic Emission Spectrometer, Atomic Absorption, Spectroscopy with Dyphenylcarbazide, Differential Thermal Analysis and Thermogravimetry, X-ray Diffraction, Capillary Electrophoresis and Scanning Electron Microscopy. The results indicated that it is possible the incorporation of the waste into the ceramic glazes. Leaching tests were performed with the developed glazes and the chemical compositions of the leachates were determined by capillary electrophoresis and atomic absorption, confirming amounts lower than the ones specified by the Brazilian standard NBR10004. It was possible to incorporate 10wt.% of chromium residue in the production of inorganic pigments, resulting in glazes with good characteristics of color and texture, showing the great potential of recycling chromium waste from the tannery industry in the fabrication of pigments for the Ceramic Tile Industry.

Com a utilização de filtros percoladores aeróbios, procurou-se promover a remoção de nitrogênio amoniacal do esgoto sanitário efluente de reator anaeróbio compartimentado, através do processo de nitrificação. O trabalho foi desenvolvido em duas fases; na primeira foi realizada a preparação da serragem de couro utilizando-se peneiramento e lavagens e a seguir iniciou-se a aplicação do esgoto sanitário em quatro filtros percoladores. Os filtros F1 e F2 foram operados com a mesma taxa de aplicação (1,91 'M POT.3'/'M POT.2'.dia) e diferentes meios suportes, sendo brita e serragem de couro do tipo wet blue respectivamente. Os filtros F3 e F4 foram preenchidos com serragem de couro e operaram com taxa de aplicação hidráulica de 4,00 e 6,00 'M POT.3'/'M POT.2'.dia . O filtro F3 apresentou melhores eficiências de remoção para todos os parâmetros, com eficiência média de remoção de NTK, 'N'-'NH IND.3' e DQO de 71%; sendo que a partir do sexagésimo quarto dia, esse filtro passou a apresentar 100% de remoção de NTK e 'N'-'NH IND.3'. Os filtros F1 e F2 podem ter tido problemas com a aeração, já que foram operados com menores taxas de aplicação hidráulica e deveriam apresentar melhores resultados. O filtro F4 apresentou baixas eficiências de remoção, provavelmente devido a maior taxa de aplicação hidráulica. / The aim of the work is to promote the ammoniacal nitrogen removal from anaerobic baffed reactor effluent using aerobic trickling filters, through the nitrification process. The research was developed in two phases; firstly the leather sawing was prepared through sieving and washing, later the domestic sewage was applied into four tricking filters. The F1 and F2 filters were operated with the same hydraulic loading (1,91 'M POT.3'/'M POT.2'.day) and different filter packing. For the F1 filter was used rock and for the F2 wet blue leather sawing. The F3 and F4 filters were filled with leather sawing and operated in a hydraulic loading of 4,00 and 6,00 'M POT.3'/'M POT.2'.day respectively. The F3 filter presented better removal efficiencies for all the parameters, with 70% of average removal efficiency of KTN (Kjeldahl Total Nitrogen), 'NH IND.3'-'N' (ammoniacal nitrogen) and COD (Chemical Oxygen Demand). From the 49th day on, this filter presented 100% of removal efficiency of KTN and 'NH IND.3'-'N'. The F1 and F2 filter were supposed to present better results due to the lower hydraulic loading, but it did not happen, probably because the aeration was not enough. The F4 filter presented low removal efficiency, possibly due to the higher hydraulic loading.

O couro vegetal é obtido através do revestimento de tecido de fibras celulósicas com látex de campo ou concentrado, extraído de seringueira (Hevea spp.). A produção do couro vegetal já ocorre atualmente, possibilitando manter os seringueiros da região norte do Brasil em sua atividade com melhor valor agregado ao produto, sendo ainda submetido ao processo de vulcanização associado à defumação. Adicionalmente, dá ao produtor de seringueira possibilidade de agregar valor ao seu produto e cria alternativa de matéria-prima com padrão de qualidade para a indústria da moda que trabalha exclusivamente com couro animal. Entretanto, há pouca informação científica e tecnológica sobre os processos de produção e métodos de avaliação do couro vegetal. O presente trabalho teve como objetivo avaliar a resistência à tração de couro vegetal produzido tecido de algodão impregnado com látex de diferentes cultivars de seringueira e submetido à vulcanização lenta. Amostras de látex de cinco cultivars de seringueiras GT 1, PR 107, PB 235, IAN 873 e RRIM 600, em campo de competição de clones do Campo Experimental do Departamento de Produção Vegetal da ESALQ/USP foram preparadas para vulcanização com mistura de aditivos padrões e utilizadas para impregnação de tecido de algodão cru, seguida de vulcanização lenta. Corpos de prova desses couros vegetais foram submetidos a teste de resistência à tração. O couro vegetal feito com látex do cultivar GT 1 apresentou maior resistência à tração que aquele feito com látex de RRIM 600, e os demais apresentaram resistências intermediárias. / The vegetal leather is made by coating cotton cloth with field or concentrated latex extracted from rubber trees (Hevea spp.). Currently, the production of vegetal leather already occurs in the Northern Brazil, associated with smoking and vulcanization, making possible to retain rubber tappers in the region. In addition, it permits rubber planters to aggregate some more values to its products and to create an alternative of raw material to the fashion industry, in replacement of animal leather. However, the product is not standardized and there is a lack of scientific and technological information about the production process and evaluation procedures. The objective of the present research was to evaluate the tension resistance of vegetal leather made of cotton cloth impregnated with latex of different rubber tree clones and submitted to vulcanization. Samples of latex from the rubber tree clones GT 1, PR 107, PB 235, IAN 873 e RRIM 600, cultivated at the Experimental Field of the Crop Production Department at ESALQ/USP, were prepared for vulcanization with standard mixture of addictives and used to coat cotton clothes followed by slowly vulcanization. Proof bodies of these vegetal leathers were submitted to tests tension resistance. The vegetal leather made of GT1 latex presented a tension resistance superior to that made of RRIM 600 latex, the others presented intermediate resistances.

Orientador: Mateus José Rodrigues Paranhos da Costa / Coorientador: Manuel Antonio Chagas Jacinto / Banca: Rui Machado / Banca: Pedro Veiga Rodrigues Paulino / Banca: Viviane Corrêa Santos / Banca: Mauricio Mello de Alencar / Resumo: A indústria coureira brasileira vem contribuindo de forma positiva e crescente para o saldo da balança comercial do país. O valor das exportações de couros e peles em 2011 foi de US$ 2 bilhões, e acredita-se que em 2012 os valores devem ultrapassar essa marca. Apesar do quadro favorável, a baixa qualidade da matéria-prima nacional tem limitado desempenhos mais expressivos do setor industrial, e o principal fator limitante à melhoria desta é a inexistência de um sistema de remuneração diferencial pela qualidade da matéria-prima, possível de ser estabelecido a partir de programas de classificação de couros e peles. O Ministério da Agricultura, Pecuária e Abastecimento (MAPA) estabeleceu, em 2002, critérios de classificação da pele bovina visando à valorização comercial por meio da Instrução Normativa n. 12, e solicitou à Empresa Brasileira de Pesquisa Agropecuária (Embrapa) que os validasse. Após estudos, verificou-se que a metodologia proposta pelo MAPA necessitava de ajustes. O presente estudo teve por objetivo identificar e classificar, com uma nova metodologia, 6.832 peles bovinas nos estabelecimentos de abate em Estados que representassem as cinco Regiões do Brasil, além de acompanhar, em estabelecimentos de curtimento, a classificação comercial, feita pelos próprios, dos 6.832 couros e verificar se havia correlação desta com aquela recebida pelas peles nos frigoríficos, bem como identificar os defeitos mais comuns que afetam as peles e os couros brasileiros. Verificou-se que o sistema nacional de classificação das peles bovinas proposto pelo MAPA e modificada pela Embrapa ainda não é o ideal para que se chegue à remuneração do produtor pela qualidade do couro e que o mesmo necessita de adequações técnicas. Constatou-se que as frequências de defeitos como os causados por carrapatos, bernes curados, bernes abertos, riscos abertos, riscos... (Resumo completo, clicar acesso eletrônico abaixo) / Abstract: The Brazilian leather industry has contributed to the positive and growing trade balance of the country. The value of hides and leathers exports in 2011 was US$ 2 billion, and it is believed that in 2012 the values exceed that mark. Despite the favorable scenario, the low quality of the hides has limited most impressive performances of the industrial sector, and the main limiting factor to this improvement is the lack of a system of differential payment for hide's quality, which can be established with programs of hides and leathers classification. The Ministry of Agriculture, Livestock and Supply (MAPA) established, in 2002, criteria for the classification of bovine hide aimed at commercial value through Normative Instruction n. 12, and asked Empresa Brasileira de Pesquisa Agropecuária (Embrapa) to validate it. After studies, it was found that the methodology proposed by MAPA needed adjustments. This study aimed to identify and classify, with a new methodology, 6,832 hides in slaughterhouses in states that represent the five regions of Brazil, besides monitoring, in tanning establishments, the commercial classification of those 6,832 leathers and see if there was a correlation with that received by skins in slaughterhouses, as well as identifying the most common defects that affect Brazilian skins and leathers. It was found that the national classification system proposed by MAPA is still not ideal to reach the producer payment for the leather quality and that it requires technical adjustments. It was observed that frequencies of defects such as those caused by ticks, cured grubs, open grubs, open risks, closed risks, dermatitis and candent iron mark, both for the hides and leathers classification, are highly heterogeneous with each other. It was also observed that candent iron mark, tick infestations and closed risks are the most commonly defects found in Brazilian leathers / Doutor

A procura por tecnologias que minimizem o consumo de água e o potencial poluidor da indústria do couro tem aumentado. O uso de enzimas em diversas etapas produtivas deste processo é uma alternativa cada vez mais comum, pois além de ser considerada tecnologia limpa, acelera o processo produtivo. O objetivo deste trabalho foi analisar o desempenho de oito enzimas comerciais (A1, B1, B2, B3, C1, C2, C3 e C4) fornecidas por três empresas do setor (A, B e C) em processos chamados coenzimáticos, com teores reduzidos de produtos químicos, nas etapas de remolho, depilação/caleiro e purga, por meio da comparação com processos tradicionais puramente químicos. Na etapa de remolho foi verificada a influência do tempo de processamento, tipo e concentração de enzima, sendo a pele analisada quanto ao teor de gorduras e matéria volátil e o banho analisado com relação à concentração de cloretos, sólidos totais, fixos e voláteis. Na etapa de depilação/caleiro foi estudada a influência do tempo, tipo e concentração de enzima, em comparação com dois processos químicos (tradicional e reduzido), sendo analisada a pele em diferentes tempos de processo (via análise de MEV). Na etapa de purga, o processo foi avaliado com relação ao tipo de enzima aplicada e ao tempo de processamento. Ao todo foram realizados 24 testes (12 de remolho, 6 de depilação/caleiro e 6 de purga) e em todos eles, além das análises citadas anteriormente, foram feitas análises de Carbono Orgânico Total (COT) e Proteína Solúvel (método de Lowry) nos banhos. Adicionalmente, foi determinada a atividade das enzimas A1, B3 e C3 frente ao colágeno e das enzimas A1, B3, C3 e B1 frente a lipídeos. Em geral, os resultados apontam que os processos coenzimáticos alcançam um maior potencial de remoção de matéria orgânica, quando comparado aos processos puramente químicos, destacando-se as enzimas C1 no remolho e B1 e B2 na depilação/caleiro. Na purga as enzimas apresentaram desempenho semelhante, destacando-se as enzimas B3 e C3. Os testes de determinação da atividade enzimática demonstraram que a enzima B3 não apresenta atividade frente ao colágeno, enquanto que as enzimas A1 e C3 possuem atividade frente a este substrato. Já para a atividade lipolítica, o maior desempenho foi verificado para a enzima A1. A utilização de enzimas em curtumes tem sua eficácia comprovada na etapa de purga, recentemente na depilação/caleiro e remolho também apresentou resultados positivos. / The search for technologies that minimize water consumption and pollution potential of the leather industry has increased. The use of enzymes in various productive stages of this process is a common alternative, since it is a clean technology and accelerates the process. The aim of this study was to analyze the performance of eight commercial enzyme (A1, B1, B2, B3, C1, C2, C3 and C4) provided by three companies in the sector (A, B and C) in processes appointed co-enzymatic, with reduced levels chemicals on the steps of soaking, dehairing/liming and bating, by comparison with the traditional purely chemical. In the stage of soaking was seen from the influence of processing time, type and enzyme’s concentration, being the skin analyzed for fat content and volatile matter and bath analyzed with respect to the concentration of chloride, total solids, fixed and volatile. In step dehairing/liming was studied the influence of time, type and enzyme’s concentration, compared with two chemical processes (traditional and reduced) and the skin was treated at different process times (by SEM analysis). In the bating step, the process was evaluated for the type of enzyme used and the processing time. Altogether 24 tests were performed (12 of soaking, 6 of dehairing/liming and 6 of bating) and all of them, besides the previously mentioned tests were analyzed for Total Organic Carbon (TOC) and Soluble Protein (Lowry method) in baths. Additionally, it was determined the activity of enzymes A1, B3 and C3 against the collagen and enzymes A1, B3, C3 and B1 front of lipids. In general, the results indicate that the co-enzymatic processes reach a greater potential for removal of organic matter when compared to purely chemical processes, especially the enzymes in the soaking C1, B1 and B2 in dehairing/liming. In bating, the enzymes showed similar performance, especially enzymes B3 and C3. Tests for determination of enzyme activity showed that the enzyme has no activity against B3 to collagen, while the A1 and C3 enzymes have activity against this substrate. As for the lipase activity, the greatest effects were observed for the enzyme A1. The use of enzymes in leather processing has proven effective in purging step recently in soaking and dehairing/liming also had positive results.

Made available in DSpace on 2014-06-11T19:31:04Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 Previous issue date: 2009-06-02Bitstream added on 2014-06-13T21:02:05Z : No. of bitstreams: 1 alves_al_dr_bauru.pdf: 8448992 bytes, checksum: 6f09d8f5231cbff24cebe7da8169bbec (MD5) / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES) / Compósitos condutores são materiais preparados para combinar as propriedades físicas dos polímeros com partículas condutivas. Neste trabalho, são apresentadas a preparação e caracterização de compósitos condutores contendo borracha natural (BN), raspa de couro (RC) e negro de fumo (NF). As Amostras foram conformadas em diferentes percentuais em massa dos constituintes BN, RC e NF: 38/60/2.0; 37.5/60/2.5; 37/60/3.0 e 36.5/60/3.5, respectivamente, aplicando uma pressão de 12 toneladas durante o 5 minutos à temperatura de 160°C, resultando em membranas com boa qualidade e com a espessura desejada. Os compósitos BN/RC/NF foram caracterizados por microscopia óptica (MO), microscopia eletrônica varredura (MEV), Microscopia de Força Atômica (AFM), espectroscopia Raman e infravermelho, termogravimetria (TG), calorimetria exploratória de varredura (DSC), análise dinâmico mecânica (DMA), testes mecânicos (Tensão versus deformação) e medidas de condutividade elétrica. A presença do NF no compósitos BN/ RC/NF, promoveu uma condutividade elétrica da ordem de 1.5x10-3 S.cm-1. Os ensaios mecânicos mostram que o compósito BN/RC/NF possui propriedades físicas intermediárias entre as membranas de BN e o couro. Verificou-se que as membranas do compósito BN/RC/NF são de baixo custo, e podem ser facilmente preparadas. Estes compósitos apresentaram boa estabilidade térmica, adequadas propriedade mecânica e condutividade elétrica, e são apropriadas para produzir luvas, mantas e pisos antiestáticos. Além disso, o compósito BN/RC/NF são obtidos a partir de resíduos de curtumes de couro contribuindo para a redução de um problema ambiental. / Conductive composites are materials prepared combining the physical properties of polymers and conductive particles. In this work the preparation and characterization of conducting composites containing natural rubber (NR), leather residue (LR) and carbon black (CB) are presented. Samples were conformed in different percentages of mass of the NR, LR and CB constituents: 38/60/2.0; 37.5/60/2.5; 37/60/3.0 and 36.5/60/3.5, respectively, applying a pressure of 12 tons during 5 minutes at the temperature of 160°C, resulting in membranes with good quality and with the desired thickness. The NR/LR/CB composites were characterized using optical microscopy (OM), scanning electronic microscopy (SEM), atomic force microscopy (AFM), Raman and infrared spectroscopy, thermogravimetry (TG), differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), dynamic mechanical analysis (DMA), mechanical test (stress vs. strain) and he electric conductivity measurements. The presence of the CB in composites NR/LR/CB provided an electric conductivity of the order of 1.5x10-3 S.cm-1. Mechanical tests show that the NR/LR/CB composites have intermediate properties between the membranes of NR and the leather. It was found that NR/LR/CB membranes can be easily prepared with very low cost. They presented good thermal stability, adequate mechanical and electric conductivity properties that are appropriate to produce gloves, blankets and antistatic floors. In addition, the NR/LR/CB composites are obtained from leather residues from tanneries contributing for the reduction of an environmental problem.

Orientador: Jorge Akutsu / Banca: Jorge Hamada / Banca: Bernardo Arantes do Nascimento Teixeira / Resumo: A "serragem cromada" é um tipo de resíduo sólido gerado em grandes quantidades nas indústrias de processamento de couro e nos curtumes do Brasil. Do ponto de vista ambiental é um resíduo considerado muito problemático, pois o mesmo se enquadra segundo a legislação brasileira na classe dos resíduos perigosos, devido à presença de concentrações lixiviáveis relativamente altas do elemento cromo trivalente utilizado no processo de curtimento. O destino da "serragem cromada" vinha tendo de maneira quase que generalizada seu simples lançamento em "lixões" sem nenhum tipo de controle. Mais recentemente, em função de pressões por parte dos órgãos de controle ambiental às indústrias de processamento de couro e curtumes, a "serragem cromada", vem sendo estocada nas mesmas, constituíndo enormes pilhas de armazenamento nos pátios dessas indústrias. Mediante o exposto, a presente pesquisa... (Resumo completo, clicar acesso eletrônico abaixo) / Abstract: The "tanned leather waste" is a type of solid waste generated in great amounts in tanneries and industries of leather processing in Brazil. From tehe environmental point of view it is considered to be a very problematic waste, since its classification is "hazardous waste", according to the Brazilian rules, due to the presence of relatively high lixiviable concentrations of the element trivalent chromium used in the tanning process. "The tanned leather waste" destination tended to be the simple dropping on rubbish landfills without any type of control. More recently, due to pressures of the environmental control organs on the industries of leather processing and tanneries, "the tanned leather waste" has been stored inside the manufacturing facilities, becoming enormous strorage piles in those industries courtyards. By the exposed, this research proposes an appropriate way to the destination for... (Complete abstract click electronic access below) / Mestre

Traditional theories of industrial restructuring assign the most explanatory weight of the structural change phenomenon to increasing pressures via globalization and falling trade barriers. This thesis offers a new model of thinking about industrial restructuring that includes multiple stressors. The thesis focuses on three main drivers of structural change: market pressures, environmental regulation and changes in land use and land pricing, using two case studies of leather and footwear industrial clusters in Mexico, located in the cities of León and Guadalajara. Evidence of multiple drivers of structural change is found in the dissertation. Furthermore, responses to restructuring drivers in León and Guadalajara are found to be substantially different. Firms in the leather and footwear cluster in León have implemented countervailing strategies such as price competition, government lobbying, and more recently, investment in socio-economic research (competitiveness) projects. However, firms in the leather and footwear cluster in Guadalajara focused on a specific, high-end target market. At the larger, urban scale, footwear and its allied industries in the city of León resisted change and have tried to remain in operation while the city of Guadalajara has focused on a diversification strategy, attracting new (arguably more technically advanced) industries. This thesis offers empirical and theoretical advances. Empirically, it applies a firm demographics approach to the study of industrial clusters under multiple stressors. This approach has not been previously used on Mexican data. Theoretically, it demonstrates that future analyses of industrial complexes’ structural change can be strengthened through the use of an integrated assessment framework investigating the effect of multiple stressors (market forces, land pricing, technical change, environmental regulations, and consumer preferences) on industrial restructuring.

This thesis considers the fruit of the tara tree (Caesalpinia spinosa) as a sustainable source for tanning agents and proposes alternatives to the commercial mineral salts and vegetable extracts to comply with an increasing demand that concerns lower carbon footprint and health safety. Taxonomy of the tree is described and the substances contained in the fruit are chemically characterized in order to justify that tara farm forestry is economically viable and to secure a potential worth. The value chain is fully described from fruit collection in remote Andean regions to the export for the most important leather markets. Although tara tannins have been used in the leather industry and its properties being well known, the experimental part of the work aims to optimize innovative formulations using tara as wet-white pre-tanning agent. Combinations with a selected syntan used for wet white and final article recipes are proposed / Esta tesis considera el fruto del árbol de tara (Caesalpinia spinosa) como fuente sostenible de taninos para la curtición del cuero y propone alternativas para las sales minerales y los extractos vegetales como respuesta a la creciente demanda para reducir el impacto medioambiental y la seguridad de los artículos de consumo. Se describe la taxonomía del árbol así como la caracterización de su fruto para justificar la silvicultura como práctica económicamente viable y asegurar su valor y la cadena desde la recolección de los frutos en las regiones andinas hasta la exportación a los mercados más importantes de la industria del cuero. Aunque los taninos de la tara ya se usan para la fabricación de cueros desde épocas remotas y sus propiedades están reconocidas, la sección experimental de este trabajo se orienta a optimizar fórmulas innovadoras utilizando la tara como agente de curtido wet-white. Se proponen fórmulas para artículos finales.