Human bodies are in constant interaction with materials containing known and unknown chemicals of hazardous behavior. One group of chemicals are polycyclic aromatic compounds (PACs) which can be present in both indoor and outdoor materials, commonly in plastics. PACs are known for their cancerogenic behavior and thus should be considered and studied in an attempt to decrease human exposure. The following project reports the execution and results from chemical analysis of 48 PACs including parent polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), alkylated PAHs and dibenzothiophenes (S-PAC), searched for in different materials commonly found indoors. Eleven samples were prepared and analyzed using GC/MS target analysis. 23 out of the 33 parent PAHs targeted were detected and quantified. In addition, 12 out of 15 alkylated PAHs including four dibenzothiophenes (S-PAC) were detectable in the samples. The contents of parent PAHs ranged from 105 ng/g to 6700 ng/g in the samples, with the highest value being present in a laminated artificial leather sample. The alkylated PAHs ranged from 34 ng/g to 3000 ng/g, and a recycled hard plastic contained the highest amount. Amongst the parent PAHs, the dominating compound in the samples was phenanthrene. For the alkylated PAHs, 2-methylnaphtalene was the compound present in the highest mass fraction. When comparing the samples, most similarities in PAC composition could be seen in the artificial leather samples excluding a high content of naphthalene in the laminated leather. The recycled plastic material consisted of the highest variety of PACs. The results presented that none of the samples exceeded the limit values set by EU regulation regarding eight PAHs (PAH8) in consumer products. However, poor recovery in addition to poor resolution of the majority of the high molecular mass compounds suggest further investigation of method optimization.

台灣合成皮工業，可追溯至1950年代中期石化工業創建，所生產之PVC塑膠皮，直至1969年永豐化工自日本引進之PU合成皮製造技術，廣泛將PU合成皮產品運用於衣、住、行、娛樂等民生消費用品上，PU合成皮產業於台灣發展已有三十年以上的歷史。 PU合成皮產業，屬石化工業的一環，產品仍然是工業產品階段，需交由下游產業加工後，才得以供消費者使用。台灣的合成皮產業與下游製鞋業緊密結合，曾於1990年代，創下世界最大產量的記錄，台灣遂有「製鞋王國」、「合成皮王國」等美譽。 傳統PU合成皮產業，進入障礙低，產品替代性高，競爭在所難免；中國大陸及東南亞合成皮業者引進台灣技術，挾其大量生產低成本優勢，經過10多年來發展，已經成功搶佔一般PU產品的市場，台灣PU合成皮產業面對外來的強力競爭環境，隨時會有被淘汰的危機，在傳統PU製品上，研發創新、提昇品質、降低成本，並不能阻止新產品於發表後即遭仿冒的結果。因應PU合成皮產業少量多樣的趨勢，業者應如何致力於製程的創新，以縮短作業流程，以提昇競爭力。 台灣PU合成皮產業成長停滯，有愈來愈多的企業，被迫面對外移關廠或者轉型到其它具附加價值的產品線，本研究以個案公司為例，探討其轉型策略，其建構自有品牌及行銷通路，與消費者直接接觸，自有品牌可否成為PU合成皮業的轉型契機，以及工業品牌轉型至消費性產品品牌所面臨問題的探討。 關鍵字：合成皮、競爭策略、品牌、普大皮革 / The industry of synthetic leather in Taiwan could trace back to the middle of 1950s which initiated from the PVC production at Taiwan’s new established petrochemistry industry until the Yoong Feng Chemistry Inc has introduced from Japan the technic of PU production in 1969 which has more extensively utilized the PU leather to the usage at garment, household, transportation, and entertainment, etc. In fact, the development of PU leather industry in Taiwan has been undertaking for more than 30 years. PU leather industry is highly related to the petrochemistry industry, its product is so called the material for the downstream to carry out for the consumer’s usage. It is also inseparable between the industry of synthetic leather and shoe manufacturing. Moreover, during the 1990s, Taiwan has achieved the industry of synthetic leather world’s No. 1 in terms of production volume. Therefore, from the time, Taiwan has wined the name as “Kingdom of Shoes” or “Kingdom of Synthetic Leather”. The low entry level of PU leather industry with its high product substitution has inevitably caused high competition in current market. Moreover, in the past 10 years, the mainland China and Southeast Asia with its technic transplanted from Taiwan has also became the major provider in the world of PU product with more competitive cost. As a result, the next move for PU industry in Taiwan has came into an agenda which focus on the innovation of manufacturing and product itself in order to enhance the competitive strength from the market selection. In Taiwan, due to the recession of PU industry, more and more manufacturers have been enforced to remove overseas for cost down or backward for more value addition. Therefore, the purpose of this thesis is trying to probe into the research by case study (as at PONY Leather Corp) of Taiwan’s PU industry. From the past, it studies the possible future through the strategies of brand-name, marketing passage, and consumer approach, etc. Key Words: Synthetic Leather, Competition Strategy, Brand, Pony Leather.

Thesis (M.B.A.)-Business Studies Unit, Durban University of Technology, 2006 x, 68 leaves / The purpose of this study is to identify the training needs of leather technicians with the aim of supporting corporate competitive advantage within their company. Identifying competencies is an essential first step towards developing a training programme and to support corporate competitive advantage. / M

Läder som material har använts av människor i århundraden och är ett av de mest tåliga materialen som finns idag. Detta leder till att det produceras extremt höga mängder läder där den högsta andelen som produceras är kromgarvat läder, som står för cirka 90 procent av den totala läderproduktionen. I och med dagens medvetenhet kring miljö och hur läder påverkar denna efterfrågas alternativa material. Piñatex är ett material där man använt sig av bladen på ananasplantan för att sedan producera ett nonwoven-material som är likt läder, trots att det inte skapats som ett substitut till läder, men användningsområdena är desamma. Piñatex kan vara ett alternativt material när det gäller hållbarhet över tid men även ur miljösynpunkt. I denna rapport är syftet att studera tillverkningsprocesserna för Piñatex, kromgarvat läder och vegetabiliskt garvat läder för att ge ökad förståelse för deras miljöpåverkan. Dessutom utförs materialtester för att se hur de tekniska egenskaperna skiljer sig mellan materialen. Testresultaten i denna studie visar på att materialen har olika för- och nackdelar beroende på vilket test som utförts. Vidare är det svårt att veta exakt hur stor miljöpåverkan de olika tillverkningsprocesserna har, men kromgarvning är den process som med största sannolikhet leder till störst inverkan på miljön. I slutändan handlar ett materials önskvärdhet om preferenser från användarna och i vilket syfte ett material ska användas. / Leather has been used by humans for centuries and it is one of the most resistant materials that exists today. This leads to a high production of leather, where the largest part comes from chrome tanning, which stands for approximately 90 % of the total leather industry. Because of today’s awareness surrounding the environment and how leather affects it, demand for alternative materials are increasing. Piñatex is a material based on the leaves of the pineapple plant, which is turned into a non woven material, looking alot like leather. Although it is not created as a substitute for leather, the areas of use are the same. Piñatex can be an alternative material when it comes to durability but also from an environmental point of view. The purpose of this report is to study the manufacturing processes for Piñatex, chrome tanned leather and vegetable tanned leather to yield a higher understanding for their environmental impact. Futhermore, material testing is carried out to see how the technical properties differentiate between the materials. Test results from this study show that the materials have different advantages and disadvantages depending on which test has been carried out. It is hard to know exactly how big the environmental impact from the different manufacturing processes are, but chrome tanning is probably the one with the highest impact. In the end, the desirability of a certain material all comes down to user preferences and for which purpose the material will be used.

Thesis (M.B.A.)-Business Studies Unit, Durban University of Technology, 2006 x, 68 leaves / The purpose of this study is to identify the training needs of leather technicians with the aim of supporting corporate competitive advantage within their company. Identifying competencies is an essential first step towards developing a training programme and to support corporate competitive advantage.

This study explored South African female consumers’ value perceptions as well as their needs for traceable information on exotic crocodile leather accessories. The Wiedmann, Hennigs and Siebels' Luxury Value Perception Scale (2007) and the Consumer Decision-making Process (Solomon & Rabolt, 2004:354) served as conceptual framework for the study. A questionnaire was distributed across South Africa and completed by willing participants. All participants were South African citizens, females of varyin g cultural backgrounds, including: African, Caucasian, Indian, Asian and Coloured individuals. The Consulta Research (Pty) Ltd used their extensive database of female consumers for sampling purposes. They managed to collect three hundred and thirty seven (337) completed and usable questionnaires. The Spearman's Correlation Coefficient, descriptive statistics, as well as exploratory factor analysis were used for data analysis. The results indicate that respondents to this questionnaire were not willing to pay marketrelated prices for exotic crocodile leather accessories. Findings of this study uncovered five luxury value perceptions as opposed to the four originally recognised by Wiedmann et al. (2007), namely Functional, Social, Financial, Individual gifts and Individual pleasure value perceptions. Of these luxury value perceptions, respondents indicated that the functional value perception was the most important to them. Traceable intrinsic and extrinsic-related attributes which can have an impact on decision-making by consumers were also explored. Results indicate that respondents found intrinsic-related attributes moderately important when deciding to purchase an exotic crocodile leather accessory. With regard to extrinsic-related product attributes, results indicate that most respondents found these extrinsic-related attributes moderately important. The notable exception was the position brand-holders held on child labour, which was indicated as important by most respondents. Results further indicated weak-positive, but statistically highly significant relationships between functional value perceptions and the importance of intrinsic-related as well as extrinsic-related information. Weak-positive, but statistically highly significant relationships were also conversely found between financial value perceptions and the importance of intrinsic and extrinsic-related information. There was a weak but statistically highly significant relationship between the individual giftvalue perception and the importance of extrinsic-related information as well as, conversely, a weak-positive statistically significant relationship between individual gift-value perceptions and the importance of intrinsic-related information. Purchase intent is an important determinant when consumers make decisions. Research results for this study have, however, indicated that respondents had a weak purchase intent for exotic crocodile leather accessories. Most respondents reported that they would never, at any time, buy an exotic crocodile leather accessory. Neither would they at some stage have the intention to buy an exotic crocodile leather accessory, or have a purchase interest for an exotic crocodile leather accessory. Finally, results show that there was a weak-positive, but statistically highly significant relationship between the importance of extrinsic-related product attributes and purchase intent. Results of this study make positive contributions towards the decision-making of various role players within the exotic crocodile leather accessory industry. Role players such as farmers, manufacturers, distributers, retailers and marketers can all benefit from the results. Based on the results of this study, recommendations for industry and future research are made. / Dié studie ondersoek Suid-Afrikaanse vroueverbruikers se waardepersepsies asook hul behoeftes aan navolgbare inligting oor eksotiese krokodilleerbykomstighede. Die Wiedmann, Hennigs and Siebels's Luxury Value Perception Scale (2007) en The Consumer Decisionmaking Process (Solomon & Rabolt, 2004:354) dien as die konseptuele raamwerk vir dié studie. 'n Vraelys is dwarsoor Suid-Afrika versprei en voltooi deur vrywillige deelnemers. Alle respondente was Suid-Afrikaanse burgers, vroue van 'n verskeidenheid etniese herkomste, waarby ingesluit: Afrikaan, Kaukasiese, Indiese, en kleurlingindividue. Consulta Research (Pty) Ltd het van hul uitgebereide databasis van vroueverbruikers in hul steekproef gebruik gemaak. Hulle het daarin geslaag drie om honderd sewe en dertig (337) voltooide en bruikbare vraelyste te bekom. Die Spearman’s Correlation Coefficient se beskrywende statistiek en oorsigtelike faktore-ontleding is gebruik in die data-analiese. Die bevindings dui daarop dat respondente op die vraelys nié bereid is om markverwante pryse te betaal vir eksotiese krokodilleer-bykomstighede nie. Verdere bevindings in dié studie het vyf luukse waardepersies blootgelê, teenoor die vier aangedui deur Wiedmann et al. (2007), naamlik: Funksionele, Sosiale, Finansiële, Individuele geskenke, en Individuele plesierwaardepersepsies. Van dié luuksewaardepersepsies het respondente aangedui dat die funksionele waardepersepsie vir hulle die belangrikste is. Opspoorbare en navolgbare intrinsieke of ekstrinsieke eienskappe wat 'n invloed kan hê op die besluitnemening deur verbruikers was matig-belangrik in die besluitproses vir die aankoop van 'n eksotiese krokodilleerbykomstigheid. Met betrekking tot ekstrinsieke produkeienskappe, dui resultate daarop dat respondente grootliks hierdie ekstrinsieke eieskappe ook as matig-belangrik geag het. Die opmerklike uitsondering is beleidstandpunte wat handelsmerkeienaars ten opsigte van kinderarbeid handhaaf en wat as belangrik deur respondente bejeën is. Resultate dui verder daarop dat swak-positiewe, maar 'n statisties hoogs belangrike verband bestaan tussen fuksionele waardepersepsies en intrinsiek-verwante asook ekstrinsiekeverwante beskouings. Verder is ook aangedui dat hoogs belangrike verbande tussen finaniële waardepersepsies, individuele geskenkwaardepersepsies en die belangrikheid van intrinsieke en ekstrinsieke inligting teenwoordig is. Daar was 'n swak, maar hoogs belangrike verband tussen die indivuele geskenkwaardepersepsie en die belangrikheid van ekstrinsieke-verwante inligting asook die omgekeerde statisties-belangrike, swak-positiewe verband tussen individuele geskenkwaardepersepsies en die belangrikheid van intrinsiek-verwante inligting word beklemtoon. Die aankoopvoorneme is 'n belangrike oorweging in verbruikers se besluitneming. Resultate in hierdie studie, dui egter daarop dat verbruikers 'n swak aankoopvoorneme vir eksotiese krokodilleerbykomstighede het. 'n Meerderheid van die respondente het aangedui dat hulle nooit 'n bykomstigheid van krokodilleer sal koop nie. Verder sal hulle in geen stadium enige voorneme koester om 'n krokoldilleerbykomstigheid aan te skaf of belangstel om só 'n produk te bekom nie. Laastens dui resultate op 'n swak-positiewe, maar statisties hoogsbetekenisvolle verband tussen die belangrikheid van ekstrinsieke produkeieskappe en koopvoorneme. Resulate van dié studie maak 'n positiewe bydrae tot die besluitneming van verskeie rolspelers binne die eksotiese krokodilleer-industrie. Rolspelers soos boere, vervaardigers, verspreiders, handelaars en bemarkers kan almal baat vind by dié bevindings. Sleutelwoorde: Vroueverbruiker van luukse bykomstighede; industrie vir luukse krolodilleerbykomstighede; luuksewaardepersepsies; intrinsieke produkeienskappe; ekstrinsieke produkeienskappe; aankoopvoorneme. / Dissertation (MSc)--University of Pretoria, 2017. / Consumer Science / MConsumer Science / Unrestricted

This report covers a preliminary life cycle assessment (LCA) on imitation leather made from hemp fiber (hemp leather) and a comparison to bovine leather, to examine whether hemp leather is an environmentally sustainable alternative. The bovine leather industry is responsible for heavy chemical use and emissions, detrimental effects to the environment as well as to human health. The United Nations (UN) and other organizations call for immediate action against the animal product industry sector to greatly reduce emissions and protect the environment. Hemp is a versatile plant that can be used for many things, including paper, composites, textiles, food and medicine, and is probably a suitable material for imitation leather. The hemp plant requires little inputs, grows fast and without pesticides, has positive effects on the environment and can be cultivated on every inhabited continent. The preliminary LCA was based on a patent describing the manufacturing process of hemp leather completed with data from literature and a few assumptions made. LCA-results for bovine leather were collected from literature and the two leather fabrics were then compared. The comparison showed that hemp leather is superior to bovine leather in all compared categories except for water consumption and hazardous waste. Bovine leather had 99% more energy use, 78% higher acidification potential (AP), 99,9% higher eutrophication potential (EP) and 83% higher global warming potential (GWP) than hemp leather. The large water consumption in the manufacturing phase of hemp leather is possible to be explained by over dimensioning of inputs. The report concludes that hemp leather would be the environmentally and ethically admirable choice between the two leathers and that more research on more modern methods of manufacturing it should be performed. / Denna rapport omfattar en preliminär livscykelanalys (LCA) på syntetiskt läder gjort av hampfiber (hampläder) och en jämförelse med nötskinn, för att undersöka om hampläder är ett miljövänligt alternativ. Nötskinnsindustrin är ansvarig för stor kemikalieanvändning och tunga utsläpp, skadlig inverkan på miljö samt människors hälsa. Förenta nationerna och andra organisationer fordrar till omedelbar handling mot djurindustrisektorn för att drastiskt minska utsläpp och skydda miljön. Hampa är en mångsidig växt som kan användas inom många olika applikationer, såsom till papper, kompositer, textiler, mat och medicin, och är förmodligen ett passande material till imitationsläder. Hampan behöver liten mängd tillförd energi, växer fort och utan bekämpningsmedel, har positiva effekter på miljön och kan odlas på alla bebodda kontinenter. Den preliminära LCA:n är baserad på ett patent beskrivande hampläders produktionsprocess, kompletterat med data från litteratur samt några antaganden. LCA-resultat från nötskinnsproduktion samlades från litteratur och resultaten från de två lädertyperna jämfördes sedan. Jämförelsen visade att hampläder är överlägset nötskinn i alla jämförda kategorier utom vattenkonsumtion och farligt avfall. Nötskinn har 99% högre energianvändning, 78% högre försurningspotential (AP), 99,9% högre övergödningspotential (EP) och 83% högre potential till global uppvärmning (GWP) än hampläder, enligt resultaten. Hampläders produktionsprocess stora vattenkonsumtion kan troligtvis förklaras av en överdimensionering av indata. Denna rapport drar slutsatsen att hampläder skulle vara det mest miljövänliga och etiskt försvarbara valet mellan de två lädertyperna och att modernare produktionsmetoder för hampläder bör studeras.

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / In Brazil, the economic potential of the germplasm of medicinal species is a treasure to be preserved and utilized, increasingly becoming a form of alternative therapy available for the population to use. However, the indiscriminate and uncontrolled use can, cause more harm than benefits to health and it is important to understand these plants, from cellular levels and the action on living organisms. The medicinal species Echinodorus grandiflorus and Sagittaria montevidensis belong to the family Alismataceae, known respectively as leather hat and false leather hat in Brazil. For E. grandiflorus the attributed medicinal potentials are depurative, diuretic, anti-inflammatory, antiophidic and anti-rheumatic action, were leaves are the main part of the plant used, either as a tea or infusion. S. montevidensis has no known medicinal properties and having a wide range of leaf morphologies, leading to population confused with leather hat . The present study evaluated the genotoxic and antiproliferative extracts of the dried leaves of E. grandiflorus and S. montevidensis using the cell cycle of Allium cepa, and performing analysis by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC-DAD) for the quantification of the extracts of the compounds. The test system is well suited for the analysis of genotoxicity, being validated by the International Programme on Chemical Safety (IPCS, WHO) and can alert on the possible damages that can be caused to organisms exposed to the substances in the plants. For the test, plant material was collected in the field in Rio Grande do Sul, in the municipalities of: Santa Maria, São Sepé, Silveira Martins and Pinhal Grande and in the commercial form of E. grandiflorus, separated into two experimental groups. The extracts were prepared, by infusing dry leaves for 15 min., at two concentrations, 6g.L-1 e 24g.L-1, and two controls, water (negative control) and glyphosate 15% (positive control). The chromatographic analysis (HPLC-DAD), revealed the presence of flavonoids and phenolic acids for both species, higher concentrations of caffeic acid and flavonoid glycoside in E. grandiflorus and phenol glycoside in S. montevidensis. This study showed that extracts of E. grandiflorus and S. montevidensis show genotoxic potential and when used in high concentrations, antiproliferative potential. / No Brasil, o potencial econômico de germoplasma de espécies medicinais é uma riqueza a ser preservada e utilizada, tornando-se cada vez mais uma forma de terapia alternativa acessível para o uso da população. No entanto, o uso indiscriminado e sem controle pode causar mais danos à saúde do que benefícios, sendo importante o conhecimento dessas plantas, desde os níveis celulares bem como ação sobre os organismos vivos. As espécies medicinais Echinodorus grandiflorus e Sagittaria montevidensis pertencem à família Alismataceae, conhecidas respectivamente como chapéu-de-couro e falso chapéu-de-couro. Para E. grandiflorus é atribuído potencial medicinal como ações depurativa, diurética, antiinflamatória, antiofídica e antirreumática, sendo as folhas a principal parte utilizada da planta, seja na forma de chá ou infusão. S. montevidensis não apresenta suas propriedades medicinais conhecidas e tendo uma grande variedade morfológica das folhas, isso leva a população a confundi-la com chapéu-de-couro . O presente estudo teve o objetivo de avaliar o potencial genotóxico e antiproliferativo de extratos das folhas secas de E. grandiflorus e S. montevidensis, sobre o ciclo celular de Allium cepa, bem como realizar análise por cromatografia líquida de alta eficiência (CLAE-DAD) para quantificação dos compostos dos extratos. O sistema teste A. cepa é bem aceito para a análise da genotoxicidade, sendo validado pelo Programa Internacional de Segurança Química (IPCS, OMS), podendo vir a alertar sobre possíveis danos que substâncias podem causar aos organismos a elas expostos. Para o teste foi coletado material vegetativo no habitat natural no Rio Grande do Sul, nos munícipios de: Santa Maria, São Sepé, Silveira Martins e Pinhal Grande e na forma comercializada de E. grandiflorus, separados em 2 grupos experimentais. Os extratos preparados, por infusão de 15 min. das folhas secas, em duas concentrações 6g. L-1 e 24g.L-1, para cada espécie e 2 controles, água (controle negativo) e o glifosato 15% (controle positivo). A análise cromatográfica (HPLC-DAD) revelou a presença de flavonóides e ácidos fenólicos para ambas as espécies. Sendo, maiores teores de ácido cafeico e flavonóide glicosídeo em E. grandiflorus e glicosídeo fenol em S. montevidensis. Este estudo mostrou que os extratos de E. grandiflorus e S. montevidensis apresentam potencial genotóxico e quando usadas em elevadas concentrações, potencial antiproliferativo.

Content: Different tanning materials endow leather with varying colors observable in undyed leathers. Periodateoxidized starch tanned leathers have a yellow tinge or light brown color and get darker with age. The color change in situ is ascribable to iodate ions that are byproducts of periodate oxidation. Iodate ions undergo reduction to form iodine molecules that are yellow or brown in low or at higher concentrations. This study focuses on the removal of iodate ions from Dialdehyde Tapioca Starch (DTS) using a simple precipitation method. Preparation of DTS is by periodate oxidation and precipitation of iodate ions using an inorganic precipitant. The experiments for manufacturing wet-white leathers used pickled goatskins and DTS (unmodified and modified) tanning agents at various percentages based on pelt weight. Glutaraldehyde (GTA) tanning was the control. The percentage removal of iodate ions in modified DTS was 98%. Both unmodified and modified DTS had an aldehyde content of 70%. FT-IR and 1H-NMR confirmed the aldehyde groups. GTA, unmodified, and modified DTS tanned leathers had shrinkage temperatures of 80, 87, and 89°C, respectively. The physico-mechanical properties of the control and experimental leathers are comparable. GTA tanned leather had the typical brown color associated with GTA tannages. The ‘b’ color value of unmodified DTS tanned leather was high confirming yellowing of leathers upon ageing. Wet-white leather tanned with modified DTS had no discernible color change. Analysis of the spent tan liquor shows a reduction in the BOD, COD, TS, and TDS load when compared to GTA tanning system evincing the biodegradability of DTS. This study has overcome the drawback associated with periodate-oxidized starch tanning agents, viz. leather darkening over time, considering the chemical and physico-mechanical properties of the resultant leathers. The novel iodate free DTS can be scaled-up for commercial availability. Take-Away: Removal of iodate ions from periodate-oxidized starch before its use as a tanning agent is imperative to avoid leather color change over time. This study reports the successful removal of iodate ions from Dialdehyde Tapioca Starch (DTS). Wet-white leather tanned with the modified DTS had no observable color change upon ageing.

No description available.