Made available in DSpace on 2014-07-29T16:27:45Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Sejana de Pina Jaymell.pdf: 2874654 bytes, checksum: 434ea04be07cf81b7d7f5976415f5c29 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2010-06-28 / This dissertation tries to understand the possible meanings of the old objects stored in old boxes and trunks. Specifically, clothes. To this ending, the visuality of the family dresses is investigated from the knowledge, description and registration of their physical and material features, which are the basis of the analysis. The testimonies of the individuals involved in its making and its use, the quest for the historicity of each piece, as well as their typology, support the discussion of the various functions, that the artefact can assume: starting as biographical objects, the dresses change from this and the other functions determined by their creation, use and keeping. With the Camisa de Pagão, used on babies, the children's little dresses, the debut gown and the bridal gown, this search goes through the economic, social and affective issues triggered remembrance processes. / Este trabalho busca a compreensão dos possíveis sentidos dos objetos antigos guardados em caixas e baús, mais especificamente, roupas. Para tanto, os vestidos de família têm investigadas suas visualidades a partir do conhecimento, da descrição e do registro de suas características físicas e materiais, que são a base da análise. Os depoimentos dos sujeitos envolvidos em sua feitura e seu uso e a busca pela historicidade de cada peça, bem como de sua tipologia, dão suporte à discussão sobre as diferentes funções que a roupa pode assumir: objetos biográficos a princípio, os vestidos oscilam entre esta e outras funções, determinadas por sua criação, uso e guarda. Da camisa de pagão, usada em bebês, aos vestidinhos infantis e vestidos de debut e de noiva, a pesquisa passa pelas questões econômicas, sociais e afetivas, desencadeadas nos processos de rememoração.

Made available in DSpace on 2016-03-15T19:42:28Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Tania Cristina de Paula.pdf: 7806384 bytes, checksum: 90e6d8ccb0241240865b98264871d22a (MD5) Previous issue date: 2012-08-17 / Fundo Mackenzie de Pesquisa / This research proposes a critic about artifacts that appear from the confluence with design and craftwork thought from the concept of cultural hybridity. Furthermore, this research seeks to understand the socializing in contemporary artifacts of material and symbolic aspects of urban-industrial society and the traditional cultures, as well as modes of craftwork production. Also, this investigation aims to reflect if the concept of cultural hybridity and hybrid adjective, concepts that comes from the cultural studies, are adequate to describe, qualify or even characterize artifacts made under the meeting of the design and the craftwork. This research is under the light of Peter Burke and Néstor García Canclini's hybrid cultural conceptions and seeks to understand the phenomenon in a contemporaneous context. In addition, this research is searching to understand the multiple aspects and scope of design and craftwork activities regarding a material culture, as well as investigate the recognition of hybrid artifacts in Brazil and to verify the possibility of analyzing the artifacts from the processes of cultural hybridization. / A presente pesquisa propõe uma reflexão crítica sobre artefatos que surgem da confluência do design com o artesanato à luz do conceito de hibridismo cultural. Busca compreender o convívio em artefatos contemporâneos de aspectos materiais e simbólicos da sociedade urbano-industrial e de culturas tradicionais, assim como os modos de produção artesanal. Esta investigação busca refletir sobre a adequação do conceito de hibridismo cultural e o adjetivo híbrido, provenientes dos estudos culturais, para descrever, qualificar ou caracterizar artefatos elaborados a partir do encontro do design com o artesanato. Para realizar tal reflexão, esta pesquisa se dá sob a ótica das concepções de hibridismo cultural de Peter Burke e Néstor García Canclini e busca conhecer o fenômeno no contexto da contemporaneidade. Busca também compreender os múltiplos aspectos e a abrangência das atividades design e artesanato no âmbito da cultura material, assim como, investigar o reconhecimento dos artefatos híbridos no Brasil e verificar a possibilidade de analisar os artefatos a partir dos processos de hibridização cultural.

A presente dissertação aponta o tratamento dado à Cultura Material nos livros didáticos de História. A amostra constitui-se de todos os livros didáticos aprovados pelo PNLD 2003, criando-se um banco de dados contendo todas as imagens neles contidas. Nesse banco de dados, as imagens são divididas em três categorias principais: vestígios arqueológicos, mediações interpretativas e fotos. A seguir, considera-se o meio (pintura a óleo, gravura, têmpera, aquarela, escultura, estruturas urbanas e rurais...) e o suporte (tela, mural, papel...) das imagens. Tabulados e quantificados os dados, comparecem quadros indicativos por culturas e por problemas. Ausências e presenças são analisadas assim como as legendas das imagens e o manual do professor, constatando-se o uso ainda meramente ilustrativo da cultura material, que se explica por sugestões referentes à formação do historiador brasileiro / The present work discusses the treatment material culture receives in history school books. The sample was constituted by all school books approved in 2003 by the PNLD program, from which a data bank was created, relating all images from the sample.In this data bank the images are divided in three main categories: archaeological data, photos and mediatic intermediate solutions. It is then considered the type(oil painting, sculpture, buildings) and the basis (canvas, paper, wall, stone) for the images. Organized and quantified the data, both cultures and problems are presented. The consideration of both presences and absences, as well as the analysis of labels and the teacher manual prompt us to suggest that the use still illustrative of material culture is much due to the background and schooling of the Brazilian historian

Submitted by Celso Magalhaes (celsomagalhaes@ufrrj.br) on 2017-09-26T11:46:07Z No. of bitstreams: 1 2015 - Natassia de Melo Gomes.pdf: 1015829 bytes, checksum: 7dfc3815cd656a3e66a54f030aa67f6b (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2017-09-26T11:46:07Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 2015 - Natassia de Melo Gomes.pdf: 1015829 bytes, checksum: 7dfc3815cd656a3e66a54f030aa67f6b (MD5) Previous issue date: 2015-12-16 / Consumption plays an important role in the construction of identities and one of the main ways to express and define the members of a group is through the shared consumption symbols. The dress can be understood as a reflection of the identity of the individual to reflect rules and roles that peopleplay in the dynamics of social life. Thus, the consumption of products and services related to clothing in this work is presented in its role to build personal and collective meanings, establish and highlight cultural categories, being the focus of this study, maternal identity. Motherhood, rather than a biological event, is a social phenomenon that carries cultural and ideological pictures, the maternal identity constructed from the time when the woman is seen inserted in the new maternity context that may occur through experiences consumption. During pregnancy, the dress mode is naturally modified by new modifications of the body, making it necessary choices for new clothes. The symbolic consumption and consequently the meanings culturally constituted and assigned to goods has as intrinsic characteristic concern insertion in social groups. In addition, there is also a concern to keep and represent their images and identities to consume products that are consistent with their respective personalities and that could best represent them. In this way, the aim of this study was to analyze how the meanings attributed to clothing assist women in the construction of maternal identity. To achieve this purpose were carried 10 in-depth interviews with women who had become mothers in the last 24 months. The main results showed that the clothes are transmitters of communication and definition of this new identity to the woman, still occurring in the liminal period or just after birth. The choice of clothing in the post-liminal period is ruled on several matters, the most recurrent being the issue of social norms imposed on what is considered an ideal mother and what she should dress. Beyond this social issue, the changes in the body and the body perception of women are seen as an influencer for change of clothes in the post-liminal period. The stripping ritual, which takes place at this stage of the rite of passage, is closely linked to the issue of the body as it characterizes the need that women see in clear meanings attributed to an outfit that used during pregnancy.It can be seen that despite the construction of maternal identity be demarcated at different times as the discovery of pregnancy, purchasing products, the changes of the body or through the birth, it is important to emphasize that only through the daily ritual activities that symbolic changes are reinforced / O consumo desempenha um papel importante na constru??o das identidades e uma das principais formas de se expressar e definir os membros de um grupo ? atrav?s dos s?mbolos de consumo partilhados. O vestu?rio pode ser entendido como um reflexo da identidade do indiv?duo ao refletir regras e pap?is que os indiv?duos desempenham na din?mica da vida social. Assim, o consumo dos produtos e servi?os relacionados ao vestu?rio, neste trabalho, se apresenta em seu papel de construir significados pessoais e coletivos, estabelecer e evidenciar categorias culturais, sendo foco da presente pesquisa, a identidade materna. A maternidade, mais do que um evento biol?gico, constitui um fen?meno social, que carrega imagens culturais e ideol?gicas, sendo a identidade materna constru?da a partir do momento em que a mulher se v? inserida no novo contexto da maternidade, que pode ocorrer atrav?s das experi?ncias de consumo. Durante a gesta??o e ap?s o nascimento do beb?, o modo de se vestir ? naturalmente modificado devido ?s transforma??es do corpo, tornando-se necess?rio as escolhas por novas roupas. O consumo simb?lico das roupas e consequentemente os significados culturalmente constitu?dos e atribu?dos aos bens t?m como caracter?stica intr?nseca a preocupa??o de inser??o em grupos sociais. Al?m disso, existe tamb?m uma preocupa??o em manter e representar as suas imagens ou identidades ao consumir produtos que condizem com as suas respectivas personalidades e que possam melhor represent?-los. Desta forma, o objetivo deste trabalho foi analisar como os significados atribu?dos ao vestu?rio auxiliam as mulheres na constru??o da identidade materna. Para atingir o objetivo proposto, foram realizadas 10 entrevistas em profundidade com mulheres que se tornaram m?es nos ?ltimos 24 meses. Os principais resultados mostraram que as roupas s?o transmissoras de comunica??o e defini??o desta nova identidade ? mulher, ocorrendo ainda no per?odo liminar ou somente ap?s o nascimento do beb?. A escolha do vestu?rio, no per?odo p?s-liminar, ? pautada em diversas quest?es, sendo a mais recidivante a quest?o da normatiza??o social impostas ao que se considera uma m?e ideal e ao que ela deve vestir. Al?m desta quest?o social, as modifica??es no corpo e a percep??o corporal das mulheres s?o vistas como um influenciador para a mudan?a das roupas no per?odo p?s-liminar. O ritual de despojamento, que ocorre nesta fase do rito de passagem, est? intimamente ligado ? quest?o do corpo, pois caracteriza a necessidade que as mulheres veem em apagar significados atribu?dos a uma roupa que usou durante a gesta??o. Percebeu-se assim que apesar da constru??o da identidade materna ser demarcada em diferentes momentos como o da descoberta da gravidez, da aquisi??o de produtos, das mudan?as do corpo ou atrav?s do parto, ? importante ressaltar que somente atrav?s das atividades rituais di?rias que as mudan?as simb?licas s?o refor?adas

During the 1990s, artists started to explore the possibilities of the World Wide Web. This thesis investigates online artworks by studying their agency. Why do people interact with them, as if they are alive? How do they mobilise people, or make them share visions and ideas? Based on research in largely untapped archives, it presents an in-depth examination of several case studies, exploring the artwork's ability to have the power to act in a variety of social settings. Through studying the life trajectory of the artwork, it also offers insights in how these dynamic entities undergo changes over time and across cultures. Grounded in theoretical literature on the agency of art, this research offers an innovative way of understanding Internet art and it contributes to wider conversations about the agency of art and artefacts. Case studies include: Mouchette (Martine Neddam), 'Mouchette' (1996-present). Web project (www.mouchette.org). Collection of Stedelijk Museum (Amsterdam). Shu Lea Cheang, 'Brandon' (1998-1999). Web project (brandon.guggenheim.org). Collection of Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum (New York). Lynn Hershman Leeson, 'Agent Ruby' (1998-2002). Web project (agentruby.sfmoma.org). Collection of SFMOMA (San Francisco).

Esta pesquisa trata de estratégias de venda da loja de departamento Mappin Stores na cidade de São Paulo entre os anos de 1913 e 1920. Trataremos de como o Mappin Stores, única loja de departamentos existente ligada ao tradicional fabricante de prataria e joias Mappin & Webb praticou seus preços, desenvolveu narrativas publicitárias e incentivou práticas de consumo. Sustentamos que o Mappin Stores, apontado como uma loja que subvertia os padrões de lojas de departamento europeias e norte-americanas pelo fato de ter-se mantido uma loja para as elites, almejava, desde sua abertura, um alargamento do espectro social da sua clientela. Esta pesquisa apoia-se em estudos que identificam, na sociedade paulistana, desde finais do século XIX, a existência de segmentos sociais médios que, na ausência de meios para cultivar tradições herdadas geracionalmente, encontraram no consumo formas de marcar sua ascensão social, distinção e identidade. A partir de uma análise quantitativa e qualitativa dos anúncios do Mappin Stores, dos preços praticados pela loja e de um inédito estudo sobre o Custo de Vida na cidade de São Paulo nas primeiras décadas do século XX, tentaremos circunscrever quais eram os públicos que frequentavam e consumiam no Mappin Stores. / This dissertation recounts the Mappin Stores department store´s selling strategies in São Paulo city between 1913 and 1920. We will deal with how Mappin Stores, - the only existing department store linked to the traditional silverware and jewelry manufacturer Mappin & Webb - practiced its prices, developed its advertising narratives and encouraged consumer practices. We support that Mappin Stores, known as a magasin that subverted the European and North American department stores standards for having maintained itself as a high class shop, sought from its opening a social spectrum widening of its clientele. This research is based on studies that identify, in São Paulo society, since the end of the 19th century, the existence of medium social segments that, in the absence of the means to cultivate traditions inherited generationally, found in consumption ways of marking their social ascent, distinction and identity. Based on a quantitative and qualitative analysis of Mappin Stores\' publicity, the prices charged and an until now unpublished study about São Paulo city Living Cost in the first decades of the twentieth century, we will attempt to circumscribe the publics that attended and consumed in Mappin Stores.

This dissertation comparatively analyzes the architectural and visual histories of two black churches as examples of the material contribution of African Americans to the nation’s built environment. As cultural repositories, Metropolitan African Methodist Episcopal Church (AME) (1881-1886), Washington, D.C., and the Shrine of the Black Madonna #1, Pan African Orthodox Christian Church (1925/1957), Detroit, MI, are two sites that represent distinct forms of Black Nationalism. The history of Metropolitan AME uncovers aspects of late nineteenth century Classical Black Nationalism cultural practice. The Shrine of the Black Madonna #1 reflects the revisionist agenda of the Black Cultural Nationalist Movement of the 1960s and 1970s. The objective of this study is to expand through a cultural lens the growing body of scholarship that seeks to excavate under-recognized African-American visual and architectural traditions. This study contrasts different modes of claiming space for cultural affirmation: construction and real estate acquisition. Chapter one offers a rationale for the artifactual interrogation of African American churches and outlines the interdisciplinary methodologies employed in the case studies. In chapter two, Metropolitan A.M.E. Church’s architectural history presents an instance of an African American community using popular architectural and artistic styles in an associative manner to articulate racial advancement. Chapter three documents the aesthetic legacy of Metropolitan A.M.E. Church by considering the sanctuary’s stained glass window program, mural commissions executed by two rarely-discussed African American artists, donated art objects and the circulation of images of the religious site. Chapter four explores the Shrine of the Black Madonna #1’s 1957 purchase of a 1925 Colonial Revival ecclesiastical structure. This assessment contextualizes the lived interventions of a radical congregation to understand how shifts in material and visual patterns expressed cultural identity. Chapter five critically explores the aesthetic history of the Shrine of the Black Madonna #1 that begins with the Black Madonna and Child (1967) chancel mural by Glanton V. Dowdell. As the conclusion indicates, African American churches contain visible but hidden histories that expand African American art by introducing new iconographic considerations and revealing new art communities.

A social etiquette has emerged around the consumption of food in the West which requires the use of cutlery – knife, fork and spoon. It is the spoon that is the subject of this thesis, a utensil so familiar as to have become almost invisible. The significance of the spoon should not be underestimated and it is employed in this study as a device to offer insight into material practices, examine theoretical issues in relation to design and explore the culture of representation that has developed around objects in the contemporary field of visual and material culture. In this sense this thesis can be seen as located in the blurred boundaries of art, craft and design and as constituting a text which contextualises and supports a collection of artefacts developed in the course of a 'practice led' Art and Design PhD. The spoon exists not only as an object whose usefulness transcends time but also in terms of a metaphorical singularity; as an idea with an infinite number of possible interpretations and material manifestations. This thesis originates in the idea of a reflective cross-disciplinary enquiry intended to explore fundamental questions around what the author defines as “spoonness”, articulating that which might otherwise be articulated through (and subsumed in) the making of the object itself. Significantly, by tracing the journey of the authors film „Emilie Eating Soup‟ together with the various objects, exhibitions and catalogues developed in the course of this research, this thesis also contributes to current critical discourse from the perspective of the practitioner - a voice that in the past has often been absent from academic discourse. It opens up the creative processes to scrutiny and further comment, and serves as a model of analysis to others in the field of material culture to aid reflection upon their own practice and generate new modes of innovation. A critical reflection upon the works subsequent reception at a series of prestigious international exhibitions and events is made throughout this thesis. These materials, together with this text, combine to represent the broad arc of this author‟s creative practice and collectively define the innovative nature of this PhD.

Abstract ALWAYS ALREADY IMPRISONED: THE PANOPTIC POWER OF CAPITALISM IN AMERICAN LITERATURE, 1900-1940 By Andrew Blair Spencer, Ph.D. A dissertation submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at Virginia Commonwealth University. Virginia Commonwealth University, 2019 Director: Dr. Richard Fine, Professor, Department of English By applying the theories of control that Michel Foucault outlines in Discipline and Punish to the capitalist system, I argue that capitalism functions in much the same was as Jeremy Bentham’s Panopticon in that it perpetually imprisons individuals who live under its purview. As I see it, capitalism works on two different tracks to exploit the human condition in order to keep those living under its purview perpetually trapped within an endless cycle of working to acquire commodities, both for our personal survival and our personal indulgence. Advertising assumes the role of Foucauldian discourse in this model. In the United States, advertising became a commercial force in the mid-nineteenth century; by the beginning of the twentieth century, it was a fully-fledged profession that worked to fuel the bourgeoning commercial culture that was beginning to manifest itself in all areas of American life. By creating needs and desires in the minds of consumers, advertisers were able to dictate consumer behavior, thereby further locking Americans into the capitalist Panopticon. This theoretical base becomes the foundation upon which I build my explication of fourteen representative American novels written during the period 1900-1940. I offer in-depth discussions of individual novels, paying particular attention to the ways in which authors interrogate the capitalist system in light of the image of the United States as a land of opportunity. The selection of works includes both male and female authors, as well as white and African-American writers. Characters range from very poor to exorbitantly wealthy, and include multiple examples of middle-class life, too; the collection of works I have chosen includes both native-born and immigrant populations, as well. This wide range of socio-economic backgrounds, races, and nationalities provides a comprehensive picture of how all-encompassing the capitalist Panopticon is in American society.

This study maps a way of looking at design history in New Zealand through the investigation of a taxon of industrially manufactured ceramics. Understanding design as an enfolded process of production, distribution, mediation and consumption, three threshold moments are identified as occurring within the European settlement period: the internationalisation of commodity production and consumption; the emergence of import substitution; and the deregulation of the market. While production has formed an element in the design of ceramics in New Zealand, it is contended that greater significance lies in both the trade and the mediation of these commodities and in particular in the way these have influenced local consumer choice. Emerging from this study, a series of key binaries become apparent: between the metropolitan centre and the frontier; between state and business; and between the traditional and the progressive. Likewise, the positioning of design within the institutionalised sites of power-or its absence from them-has been a prime force both in the development of manufacturing industry and in determining the nature of the consumer market.