La conception de nanoparticules (NPs) polymériques pour le transport de médicaments dans la peau repose sur la compréhension du rôle de leurs compositions chimiques sur leurs interactions avec la peau, notamment la peau pathologique. Ce travail s'est attaché à définir le rôle de la composante hydrophile des NPs sur l'administration cutanée d'un principe actif lipophile modèle (cholécalciférol). Il a été remarqué que la composition hydrophile de polymères amphiphiles à base de PLA conditionnait les propriétés physicochimiques des NPs, notamment la taille, la surface, et la structure, tout comme la protection du cholécalciférol. Concernant l'absorption cutanée sur peau intacte, la composante hydrophile de NPs de 100 nm a eu peu d'influence. Une absorption cutanée du cholécalciférol légèrement plus importante a toutefois été obtenue à partir des NPs très riches en PEG hydrophile en comparaison aux NPs peu PEGylées. A l'inverse sur peau lésée, les NPs hydrophobes et négativement chargées de PLA seul ont permis la meilleure absorption du cholécalciférol. D'une part, la dynamique de la structure des NPs très PEGylées a permis une meilleure mouillabilité de la peau et une possible extraction de lipides cutanés, pouvant faciliter l'absorption sur peau intacte. D'autre part, la composition de la peau a conditionné la structure des NPs, puisque, sur peau lésée, les espèces ioniques libérées de la peau ont déstabilisé les NPs peu ou non PEGylées. Par adhésion à la surface de la peau, les agrégats de PLA ont pu ainsi faciliter l'absorption sur peau lésée.Lors du développement de formulations de NPs, leur composition chimique est donc à optimiser selon l'état pathologique de la peau / The design of clinically efficient polymeric nanoparticles (NPs) for skin drug delivery is based on the understanding of the influence of NPs chemical composition on their interactions with the skin tissue, notably the pathological skin. The aim of this work was to determine the influence of the hydrophilic component of polymeric NPs on the delivery of a lipophilic model drug (cholecalciferol).It was noticed that the polymeric hydrophilic composition of amphiphilic PLA-based NPs conditioned the NPs physico-chemical properties, notably in terms of size, surface properties, structure and drug protection. With regard to absorption into intact skin, the hydrophilic composition of 100 nm NPs had little impact. Only a slightly greater skin absorption was obtained from NPs with high hydrophilic PEG content compared to weakly PEGylated NPs. On the contrary in impaired skin, hydrophobic and negatively charged non-PEGylated NPs (PLA NPs) provided the best drug absorption. On the one hand, the dynamic structure of highly PEGylated NPs providing better skin wettability and potential skin lipids extraction may have contributed for increased absorption in intact skin. On the other hand, skin condition altered the NPs structure since it was observed that a non-negligible quantity of ionic species was released from impaired skin, triggering the destabilization of weakly or non-PEGylated charged NPs. However, only PLA aggregates sedimented/adhered onto the skin surface, which could have facilitated absorption in impaired skin. The polymeric hydrophilic composition of NPs and the pathological skin condition are therefore essential points to consider when designing nanoformulations

A nanotecnologia é uma ciência interdisciplinar onde se desenvolve nanomateriais para uso em diversas áreas como a farmácia, cosmética e agroindústria. Um de seus objetivos é aprimorar propriedades de ativos para novas aplicações, por exemplo, através de sistemas para liberação controlada através do uso de biomaterias. Dentre estes biomateriais destaca-se o poliácido lático (PLA) que é constantemente aplicado como matriz polimérica de várias nanoestruturas para o encapsulamento de ativos. Na área cosmética, ativos como os óleos essenciais são de grande interesse. O óleo essencial de pimenta rosa (Schinus molle L.) é composto por terpenos que apresentam, entre outras, atividade antioxidante e inseticida. No presente trabalho desenvolvemos um novo sistema de nanopartículas de PLA em solução aquosa, para liberação controlada do óleo essencial Schinus molle L. visando a utilização cosmética. As nanopartículas de PLA foram avaliadas quanto a estabilidade através da técnica de espalhamento dinâmico de luz (DLS). A formação foi estudada através do uso de difração de raios X (XRD) e espectroscopia vibracional (FTIR). A morfologia foi observada por microscopia eletrônica de varredura (SEM) comparando-se alguns dos resultados obtidos por DLS. Os resultados obtidos mostraram que o sistema é estável por aproximadamente 100 dias quanto ao tamanho, polidispersão e carga de superfície, mesmo com a variação de pH da solução em relação ao tempo. A estabilidade do nanossistema foi atribuída ao tensoativo dodecil sulfato de sódio (SDS), além da própria semicristalinidade e alta massa molar do PLA. Os componentes do sistema apresentaram interações químicas comprovadas por FTIR. O estudo por SEM mostrou que as nanopartículas obtidas têm aparência esférica, com a matriz polimérica contínua e com vários tamanhos constituindo assim um sistema polidisperso, como observadas também por DLS. A eficiência de encapsulação de 83% avaliada por calorimetria exploratória diferencial (DSC) e a liberação do ativo analisada por gravimetria mostraram-se satisfatórias. O sistema de nanopartículas obtido é estável e, por tanto, com potencial adequado para aplicação em produtos cosméticos. / Nanotechnology is an interdisciplinary science through which nanomaterials are developed for use in areas, such as pharmaceutical, cosmetology and agribusiness. One of its objectives is the improvement in the properties of active compounds for new applications by, for example, systems that use biomaterials for controlled release. Lactic polyacid (PLA), one of such biomaterials, has been constantly applied as a polymer matrix of various nanostructures for the encapsulation of active compounds. In cosmetics, active compounds, as essential oils are of great interest. The essential oil of pimenta rosa (Schinus molle L.) is composed of terpenes, which display antioxidant and insecticide activities. This dissertation addresses the development of a new system of PLA nanoparticles in an aqueous solution for the controlled release of essential oil Shinus molle L. to be applied to cosmetology. The stability of PLA nanoparticles was evaluated by dynamic light scattering (DLS). The formation of the system was studied by X-ray diffraction (XRD) and vibrational spectroscopy (FTIR) and its morphology and polydispersivity were verified by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), comparing some of the results obtained by DLS. The results show that the system is stable for approximately 100 days regarding size, polydispersion and surface charge, even when the pH of the solution varies over time. Stability was assigned to surfactant sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), PLA\'s semi crystallinity and high molecular weight. The chemical interactions of the system\'s components were evidenced by FTIR. SEM revealed spherical nanoparticles with a continuous polymeric matrix and polydispersivity, also observed by DLS. Satisfactory results were provided by the 83% of encapsulation efficiency calculated by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and the drug release analyzed by gravimetric technique. The nanoparticle system obtained is stable and, therefore, suitable for application to cosmetics.

A indústria cosmética tem investido em tecnologias inovadoras na busca de maior eficácia de seus produtos. A Nanotecnologia tem sido utilizada com o propósito de desenvolver formulações de menor risco de irritação cutânea e que promovam a liberação modificada do componente ativo. Este trabalho teve como objetivo geral desenvolvimento, caracterização e avaliação de nanopartículas de ácido ursólico incorporadas em formulação cosmética. Nesta pesquisa, para determinar a eficiência de encapsulação do AU (ácido ursólico) livre e nas nanopartículas poliméricas, foi validada uma metodologia que empregou a CLAE (Cromatografia em fase Líquida de Alta Eficiência) e os resultados obtidos indicaram boa reprodutibilidade do método e concordância entre os resultados obtidos, sendo a metodologia empregada na avaliação do AU livre e nanoparticulado. As nanopartículas contendo AU apresentaram características de potencial estabilidade química, obtendo eficiência de encapsulação de 80% de AU para as nanopartículas poliméricas e 100% para os carreadores lipídicos nanoestruturados. A caracterização físico-química das nanopartículas poliméricas contendo AU foi realizada determinando-se diâmetro da partícula (353,4 ± 1,4 nm), índice de polidispersividade (0,106 ± 0,008) e potencial zeta (-35,6 ± 1,2 mV). Os resultados obtidos para os carreadores lipídicos nanoestruturados contendo AU nas formulações foram: tamanho de partícula entre 125,3±40,4 e 237,4±62,7 nm, índice de polidispersividade entre 0,01 e 0,38 e potencial zeta entre -20,5±9,2 e -50,7±9,5 mV. Os resultados obtidos indicaram estabilidade das nanopartículas desenvolvidas. O resultado relativo ao planejamento fatorial para otimização dos agentes tensoativos revelou modelo matemático de segunda ordem para a previsão de valores de potencial zeta em função das concentrações de SDS. Dessa forma, foi possível a preparação de carreador lipídico nanoestruturado contendo reduzida concentração de SDS e valor de potencial zeta menor que -40 mV. Por meio das técnicas de TG/DTG e DSC, observou-se que o AU se manteve estável nas diversas formas de apresentação. Formulações cosméticas contendo ácido ursólico livre (AUL), e incorporados a nanopartículas polméricas (AUE) e carreadores lipídicos nanoestruturados (AUC) foram submetidas a Avaliação Preliminar da Estabilidade e ao Teste Estabilidade Normal. Observou-se que o AUC obteve melhor estabilidade físico-química em comparação ao AUL tanto na variação de viscosidade como na variação do pH, além de ter obtido melhor estabilidade em relação a AUE na variação de pH x tempo. A partir dos resultados obtidos, a Formulação 2 foi selecionada para o teste de penetração cutânea. A avaliação da penetração cutânea in vitro do AU não apresentou tendência para favorecer o transporte da substância ativa para a fase receptora. A maior concentração de AU na pele foi obtida das amostras de AU livre + emulsão (65%) seguidas das amostras de CLN + emulsão (33%) e das NP + emulsão (20%). A penetração cutânea obteve resultado ideal, pois, por se tratar de nanopartículas contendo um componente ativo antioxidante na superfície da pele, se associado a um filtro solar, atuaria contra os radicais livres resultando na maior proteção contra a radiação ultravioleta. / The cosmetic industry has invested in innovative technologies in search of greater effectiveness of their products. Nanotechnology has been used with this propose to reduce the risk of skin irritation by promoting the modified release of the active component. This study had as main objective development, characterization and evaluation of ursolic acid nanoparticles incorporated in cosmetic formulation. In this research, to determine the entrapment efficiency of UA (ursolic acid) free and in polymeric nanoparticles, a methodology was validated using HPLC (high performance liquid chromatography) and the results indicated good reproducibility of the method and agreement between the results, the methodology employed could be assessed in the evaluation of free and UA nanoparticles. Nanoparticles containing UA showed characteristics of potential chemical stability obtaining entrapment efficiency of 80% for UA polymer nanoparticles and 100% for the nanostructured lipid carriers. The physicochemical characterization of polymeric nanoparticles containing UA was accomplished by determining the particle diameter (353.4 ± 1.4 nm), polydispersity index (0.106 ± 0.008) and zeta potential (-35.6 ± 1.2mV). The results obtained for the nanostructured lipid carriers containing UA formulations were: particle size between 125.3±40.4 and 237.4±62.7 nm, polydispersity index between 0.01 and 0.38, and zeta potential between -20.5±9.2 and -50.7±9.5 mV. The results indicated stability of the developed nanoparticles. The result for the factorial design for optimization of surfactant revealed a quadratic effect of the independent variable sodium dodecyl sulfate in zeta potential. Thus, it was possible to prepare nanostructured lipid carrier containing reduced concentrations of SDS and zeta potential value of less than -40 mV. By means of the techniques of TG/DTG and DSC, was observed that the UA remained stable. Cosmetic formulations containing free ursolic acid (AUL) and incorporated in polymeric nanoparticles (AUE) and nanostructured lipid carriers (AUC) were submitted to Preliminary Assessment Stability and Normal Stability Test. It was observed that the AUC obtained better physical and chemical stability compared to AUL on the variation of viscosity as on the pH variation, besides having obtained a higher stability compared to the AUE in the pH variation versus time. From the results obtained Formulation 2 was selected for the realization of the skin penetration test. The evaluation of the in vitro penetration of UA showed that ursolic acid remained on the skin surface. The dermal penetration showed no tendency to favor the transport of active substance to the receptor phase. The highest concentration of UA in the skin samples was obtained UA + free emulsion (65%) followed samples NLC + emulsion (33%) and PN + emulsion (20%). The skin penetration achieved optimal outcome because, as it is nanoparticles containing antioxidant active compound on the skin surface, if associated with a solar filter would act against free radicals resulting in greater protection against ultraviolet radiation.

A indústria cosmética tem investido em tecnologias inovadoras na busca de maior eficácia de seus produtos. A Nanotecnologia tem sido utilizada com o propósito de desenvolver formulações de menor risco de irritação cutânea e que promovam a liberação modificada do componente ativo. Este trabalho teve como objetivo geral desenvolvimento, caracterização e avaliação de nanopartículas de ácido ursólico incorporadas em formulação cosmética. Nesta pesquisa, para determinar a eficiência de encapsulação do AU (ácido ursólico) livre e nas nanopartículas poliméricas, foi validada uma metodologia que empregou a CLAE (Cromatografia em fase Líquida de Alta Eficiência) e os resultados obtidos indicaram boa reprodutibilidade do método e concordância entre os resultados obtidos, sendo a metodologia empregada na avaliação do AU livre e nanoparticulado. As nanopartículas contendo AU apresentaram características de potencial estabilidade química, obtendo eficiência de encapsulação de 80% de AU para as nanopartículas poliméricas e 100% para os carreadores lipídicos nanoestruturados. A caracterização físico-química das nanopartículas poliméricas contendo AU foi realizada determinando-se diâmetro da partícula (353,4 ± 1,4 nm), índice de polidispersividade (0,106 ± 0,008) e potencial zeta (-35,6 ± 1,2 mV). Os resultados obtidos para os carreadores lipídicos nanoestruturados contendo AU nas formulações foram: tamanho de partícula entre 125,3±40,4 e 237,4±62,7 nm, índice de polidispersividade entre 0,01 e 0,38 e potencial zeta entre -20,5±9,2 e -50,7±9,5 mV. Os resultados obtidos indicaram estabilidade das nanopartículas desenvolvidas. O resultado relativo ao planejamento fatorial para otimização dos agentes tensoativos revelou modelo matemático de segunda ordem para a previsão de valores de potencial zeta em função das concentrações de SDS. Dessa forma, foi possível a preparação de carreador lipídico nanoestruturado contendo reduzida concentração de SDS e valor de potencial zeta menor que -40 mV. Por meio das técnicas de TG/DTG e DSC, observou-se que o AU se manteve estável nas diversas formas de apresentação. Formulações cosméticas contendo ácido ursólico livre (AUL), e incorporados a nanopartículas polméricas (AUE) e carreadores lipídicos nanoestruturados (AUC) foram submetidas a Avaliação Preliminar da Estabilidade e ao Teste Estabilidade Normal. Observou-se que o AUC obteve melhor estabilidade físico-química em comparação ao AUL tanto na variação de viscosidade como na variação do pH, além de ter obtido melhor estabilidade em relação a AUE na variação de pH x tempo. A partir dos resultados obtidos, a Formulação 2 foi selecionada para o teste de penetração cutânea. A avaliação da penetração cutânea in vitro do AU não apresentou tendência para favorecer o transporte da substância ativa para a fase receptora. A maior concentração de AU na pele foi obtida das amostras de AU livre + emulsão (65%) seguidas das amostras de CLN + emulsão (33%) e das NP + emulsão (20%). A penetração cutânea obteve resultado ideal, pois, por se tratar de nanopartículas contendo um componente ativo antioxidante na superfície da pele, se associado a um filtro solar, atuaria contra os radicais livres resultando na maior proteção contra a radiação ultravioleta. / The cosmetic industry has invested in innovative technologies in search of greater effectiveness of their products. Nanotechnology has been used with this propose to reduce the risk of skin irritation by promoting the modified release of the active component. This study had as main objective development, characterization and evaluation of ursolic acid nanoparticles incorporated in cosmetic formulation. In this research, to determine the entrapment efficiency of UA (ursolic acid) free and in polymeric nanoparticles, a methodology was validated using HPLC (high performance liquid chromatography) and the results indicated good reproducibility of the method and agreement between the results, the methodology employed could be assessed in the evaluation of free and UA nanoparticles. Nanoparticles containing UA showed characteristics of potential chemical stability obtaining entrapment efficiency of 80% for UA polymer nanoparticles and 100% for the nanostructured lipid carriers. The physicochemical characterization of polymeric nanoparticles containing UA was accomplished by determining the particle diameter (353.4 ± 1.4 nm), polydispersity index (0.106 ± 0.008) and zeta potential (-35.6 ± 1.2mV). The results obtained for the nanostructured lipid carriers containing UA formulations were: particle size between 125.3±40.4 and 237.4±62.7 nm, polydispersity index between 0.01 and 0.38, and zeta potential between -20.5±9.2 and -50.7±9.5 mV. The results indicated stability of the developed nanoparticles. The result for the factorial design for optimization of surfactant revealed a quadratic effect of the independent variable sodium dodecyl sulfate in zeta potential. Thus, it was possible to prepare nanostructured lipid carrier containing reduced concentrations of SDS and zeta potential value of less than -40 mV. By means of the techniques of TG/DTG and DSC, was observed that the UA remained stable. Cosmetic formulations containing free ursolic acid (AUL) and incorporated in polymeric nanoparticles (AUE) and nanostructured lipid carriers (AUC) were submitted to Preliminary Assessment Stability and Normal Stability Test. It was observed that the AUC obtained better physical and chemical stability compared to AUL on the variation of viscosity as on the pH variation, besides having obtained a higher stability compared to the AUE in the pH variation versus time. From the results obtained Formulation 2 was selected for the realization of the skin penetration test. The evaluation of the in vitro penetration of UA showed that ursolic acid remained on the skin surface. The dermal penetration showed no tendency to favor the transport of active substance to the receptor phase. The highest concentration of UA in the skin samples was obtained UA + free emulsion (65%) followed samples NLC + emulsion (33%) and PN + emulsion (20%). The skin penetration achieved optimal outcome because, as it is nanoparticles containing antioxidant active compound on the skin surface, if associated with a solar filter would act against free radicals resulting in greater protection against ultraviolet radiation.

No description available.

Broad distribution and activity limit the utility of anti-cancer compounds by causing unacceptable systemic toxicity and narrow therapeutic indices. To improve tumour accumulation, drug-loaded macromolecular assemblies have been designed to replace conventional surfactant-based formulations. Their nanoscale size enhances tumour accumulation via hyperpermeable vasculature and reduced lymphatic drainage. Incorporating targeting ligands introduces cell specificity through receptor-specific binding and uptake, enabling drugs to reach intracellular targets. In this work, the targeting properties of polymer nanoparticle micelles of poly(2-methyl-2-carboxytrimethylene carbonate-co-D,L-lactide)-graft-poly(ethylene glycol)-furan (poly(TMCC-co-LA)-g-PEG) were verified using in vitro and in vivo models of breast cancer. To select a relevant mouse model, the vascular and lymphovascular properties of two tumour xenograft models were compared. Greater accumulation of a model nanocarrier was observed in orthotopic mammary fat pad (MFP) tumours than size matched ectopic subcutaneous tumours, suggesting that the organ environment influenced the underlying pathophysiology. Immunostaining revealed greater vascular thickness, density and size, and thinner basement membranes in MFP tumours, likely contributing to greater blood perfusion and vascular permeability. Based on these observations, MFP tumour-bearing mice were used to characterize the pharmacokinetics and biodistribution of a taxol drug, docetaxel, encapsulated in poly(TMCC-co-LA)-g-PEG nanoparticles. The nanoparticle formulation demonstrated longer docetaxel circulation in plasma compared to the conventional surfactant-based formulation. As a result, greater docetaxel retention was uniquely measured in tumour tissue, extending exposure of tumour cells to the active compound and suggesting potential for increased anti-cancer efficacy. Furthermore, active targeting of antibody-modified nanoparticles to live cells was shown to be selective and receptor-specific. Binding isotherms were used to quantify the impact of antibody density on binding strength. The equilibrium binding constant increased linearly with the average number of antibodies per particle, which is consistent with a single antibody-antigen interaction per particle. This mechanistic understanding enables binding behaviour to be adjusted in a predictive manner and guides rational nanoparticle design. These studies validate poly(TMCC-co-LA)-g-PEG nanoparticles as a platform for targeted delivery to cancer on both a tissue and cellular level, forming a compelling justification for further pre-clinical evaluation of this system for safety and efficacy in vivo.

Broad distribution and activity limit the utility of anti-cancer compounds by causing unacceptable systemic toxicity and narrow therapeutic indices. To improve tumour accumulation, drug-loaded macromolecular assemblies have been designed to replace conventional surfactant-based formulations. Their nanoscale size enhances tumour accumulation via hyperpermeable vasculature and reduced lymphatic drainage. Incorporating targeting ligands introduces cell specificity through receptor-specific binding and uptake, enabling drugs to reach intracellular targets. In this work, the targeting properties of polymer nanoparticle micelles of poly(2-methyl-2-carboxytrimethylene carbonate-co-D,L-lactide)-graft-poly(ethylene glycol)-furan (poly(TMCC-co-LA)-g-PEG) were verified using in vitro and in vivo models of breast cancer. To select a relevant mouse model, the vascular and lymphovascular properties of two tumour xenograft models were compared. Greater accumulation of a model nanocarrier was observed in orthotopic mammary fat pad (MFP) tumours than size matched ectopic subcutaneous tumours, suggesting that the organ environment influenced the underlying pathophysiology. Immunostaining revealed greater vascular thickness, density and size, and thinner basement membranes in MFP tumours, likely contributing to greater blood perfusion and vascular permeability. Based on these observations, MFP tumour-bearing mice were used to characterize the pharmacokinetics and biodistribution of a taxol drug, docetaxel, encapsulated in poly(TMCC-co-LA)-g-PEG nanoparticles. The nanoparticle formulation demonstrated longer docetaxel circulation in plasma compared to the conventional surfactant-based formulation. As a result, greater docetaxel retention was uniquely measured in tumour tissue, extending exposure of tumour cells to the active compound and suggesting potential for increased anti-cancer efficacy. Furthermore, active targeting of antibody-modified nanoparticles to live cells was shown to be selective and receptor-specific. Binding isotherms were used to quantify the impact of antibody density on binding strength. The equilibrium binding constant increased linearly with the average number of antibodies per particle, which is consistent with a single antibody-antigen interaction per particle. This mechanistic understanding enables binding behaviour to be adjusted in a predictive manner and guides rational nanoparticle design. These studies validate poly(TMCC-co-LA)-g-PEG nanoparticles as a platform for targeted delivery to cancer on both a tissue and cellular level, forming a compelling justification for further pre-clinical evaluation of this system for safety and efficacy in vivo.

No description available.

Les nanoparticules (NPs) organiques représentent un outil majeur d'innovation en dermatologie. L'objectif de cette thèse a été de développer et d'optimiser des procédés d'encapsulation d'un mélange de molécules odorantes appelé fragrance mix I (FMI) dans des nanoparticules (NPs) de différentes natures: NPs polymères (poly-ε-caprolactone, PCL), ou NPs lipidiques solides (SLNs) (à base de vaseline, beurre de karité, cire de candelilla, triglycérides C10-18, ou palmitate de cétyle). Ces nouveaux systèmes ont alors été évalués pour la vectorisation de ce mélange à travers un explant de peau de porc, afin de modéliser la distribution des molécules composant le FMI dans les différentes assises cutanées. En parallèle, elles ont également été appliquées en tant que promoteurs de solubilisation du FMI pour le développement d'un nouveau test de diagnostic in vitro de l'allergie aux parfums. Nos résultats montrent que: (i) les NPs polymères, principalement anioniques, sont les plus adaptées pour promouvoir la pénétration transépidermique du FMI. Au contraire, les SLNs s'agglomèrent dans le stratum corneum, conduisant à une accumulation du FMI dans cette assise ; (ii) qu'au-delà du type de vecteur utilisé, la pénétration des molécules du FMI dans les couches les plus profondes de la peau dépend de leur coefficient de partage intrinsèque ; (iii) que les nanoparticules de PCL augmentent significativement la solubilisation du FMI dans les milieux de culture conventionnels et permettent ainsi une réactivation robuste des lymphocytes T spécifiques circulant chez des patients présentant une allergie au parfums. L'ensemble de ces résultats confirme donc tout le potentiel des NPs organiques pour le développement de futures stratégies de délivrance ciblée de plusieurs actifs dans les différents compartiments cutanés. Ces nouveaux vecteurs offrent en outre une alternative prometteuse pour améliorer le diagnostic de l'eczéma de contact induit par les parfums et plus généralement par des allergènes hydrophobes / The aim of this work was to develop and optimize methods for fragrance mix I (FMI) encapsulation into nanoparticles (NPs) of two types of nanoparticles (NPs) : polymeric NPs (poly-ε-caprolactone, PCL) and solid lipid NPs (SLNs) (prepared with petrolatum, shea butter, candelilla wax, C10-18 triglycerides, or cetyl palmitate). Then, these new NPss were evaluated as vectors through a pig skin to analyze the distribution of the FMI molecules in the different skin layers. In parallel, NPs have also been applied as solubilizers for the development of a new in vitro test for the diagnosis of fragrance allergy. Our results show that (i) NPs polymers, mainly anionic NPs, are the most suitable vectors to promote trans-epidermal penetration of fragrance. On the contrary, SLNs were found in the stratum corneum, leading to an accumulation of fragrance in this layer; (ii) whatever the type of NPs, the penetration of the FMI molecules in the deeper layers of the skin depends on their intrinsic partition coefficient; (iii) PCL-NPs significantly increase the FMI solubilization in conventional culture media and, allowing a robust reactivation of circulating specific T cells in patients with allergy to fragrances. All of these results confirm the potential of organic NPs for the development of future strategies (for the skin delivery of several actives in the different skin layers). These new vectors further offer a promising alternative to improve the diagnosis of contact dermatitis induced by fragrances and more generally by hydrophobic allergens

A nanotecnologia é uma ciência interdisciplinar onde se desenvolve nanomateriais para uso em diversas áreas como a farmácia, cosmética e agroindústria. Um de seus objetivos é aprimorar propriedades de ativos para novas aplicações, por exemplo, através de sistemas para liberação controlada através do uso de biomaterias. Dentre estes biomateriais destaca-se o poliácido lático (PLA) que é constantemente aplicado como matriz polimérica de várias nanoestruturas para o encapsulamento de ativos. Na área cosmética, ativos como os óleos essenciais são de grande interesse. O óleo essencial de pimenta rosa (Schinus molle L.) é composto por terpenos que apresentam, entre outras, atividade antioxidante e inseticida. No presente trabalho desenvolvemos um novo sistema de nanopartículas de PLA em solução aquosa, para liberação controlada do óleo essencial Schinus molle L. visando a utilização cosmética. As nanopartículas de PLA foram avaliadas quanto a estabilidade através da técnica de espalhamento dinâmico de luz (DLS). A formação foi estudada através do uso de difração de raios X (XRD) e espectroscopia vibracional (FTIR). A morfologia foi observada por microscopia eletrônica de varredura (SEM) comparando-se alguns dos resultados obtidos por DLS. Os resultados obtidos mostraram que o sistema é estável por aproximadamente 100 dias quanto ao tamanho, polidispersão e carga de superfície, mesmo com a variação de pH da solução em relação ao tempo. A estabilidade do nanossistema foi atribuída ao tensoativo dodecil sulfato de sódio (SDS), além da própria semicristalinidade e alta massa molar do PLA. Os componentes do sistema apresentaram interações químicas comprovadas por FTIR. O estudo por SEM mostrou que as nanopartículas obtidas têm aparência esférica, com a matriz polimérica contínua e com vários tamanhos constituindo assim um sistema polidisperso, como observadas também por DLS. A eficiência de encapsulação de 83% avaliada por calorimetria exploratória diferencial (DSC) e a liberação do ativo analisada por gravimetria mostraram-se satisfatórias. O sistema de nanopartículas obtido é estável e, por tanto, com potencial adequado para aplicação em produtos cosméticos. / Nanotechnology is an interdisciplinary science through which nanomaterials are developed for use in areas, such as pharmaceutical, cosmetology and agribusiness. One of its objectives is the improvement in the properties of active compounds for new applications by, for example, systems that use biomaterials for controlled release. Lactic polyacid (PLA), one of such biomaterials, has been constantly applied as a polymer matrix of various nanostructures for the encapsulation of active compounds. In cosmetics, active compounds, as essential oils are of great interest. The essential oil of pimenta rosa (Schinus molle L.) is composed of terpenes, which display antioxidant and insecticide activities. This dissertation addresses the development of a new system of PLA nanoparticles in an aqueous solution for the controlled release of essential oil Shinus molle L. to be applied to cosmetology. The stability of PLA nanoparticles was evaluated by dynamic light scattering (DLS). The formation of the system was studied by X-ray diffraction (XRD) and vibrational spectroscopy (FTIR) and its morphology and polydispersivity were verified by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), comparing some of the results obtained by DLS. The results show that the system is stable for approximately 100 days regarding size, polydispersion and surface charge, even when the pH of the solution varies over time. Stability was assigned to surfactant sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), PLA\'s semi crystallinity and high molecular weight. The chemical interactions of the system\'s components were evidenced by FTIR. SEM revealed spherical nanoparticles with a continuous polymeric matrix and polydispersivity, also observed by DLS. Satisfactory results were provided by the 83% of encapsulation efficiency calculated by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and the drug release analyzed by gravimetric technique. The nanoparticle system obtained is stable and, therefore, suitable for application to cosmetics.