Esta dissertação apresenta a análise ergonômica do trabalho no setor de envase de hidroalcoólicos, de uma empresa de artigos de perfumaria e cosméticos na região metropolitana de Curitiba. A ferramenta Design Macroergonômico (DM), proposta por Fogliatto e Guimarães (1999), permitiu identificar os itens de demanda ergonômica dos usuários e evidenciou diferenças entre as demandas de usuários que realizam as mesmas tarefas em turnos diferentes. As questões de organização do trabalho são as que mais afetam os funcionários, principalmente aqueles que trabalham em turnos que incorporam o trabalho no sábado. Como antes da ampliação da fábrica, o trabalho estava organizado sem o turno de sábado, e tendo em vista o impacto negativo deste horário sobre as pessoas, propõe-se que a organização de trabalho seja revista. / The present dissertation shows the ergonomic analysis of the work performed in the hydroalcohol product bottling sector at a perfume and cosmetics industry located in the Curitiba metropolitan region. The Macroergonomic Design (MD) tool, proposed by Fogliatto and Guimarães (1999), allowed us to identify the users’ ergonomic demand and ergonomic demand items highlighting the differences existing between the demands of users performing the same task but in different shifts. The issues involving work organization are the ones that mostly affect the company employees, mainly those whose work shift include working on Saturdays. Seeing that before the plant enlargement there was no Saturday shift, and taking into consideration the negative impact the establishment of such shift has on the employees, we propose reviewing the work organization.

Esta dissertação apresenta a análise ergonômica do trabalho no setor de envase de hidroalcoólicos, de uma empresa de artigos de perfumaria e cosméticos na região metropolitana de Curitiba. A ferramenta Design Macroergonômico (DM), proposta por Fogliatto e Guimarães (1999), permitiu identificar os itens de demanda ergonômica dos usuários e evidenciou diferenças entre as demandas de usuários que realizam as mesmas tarefas em turnos diferentes. As questões de organização do trabalho são as que mais afetam os funcionários, principalmente aqueles que trabalham em turnos que incorporam o trabalho no sábado. Como antes da ampliação da fábrica, o trabalho estava organizado sem o turno de sábado, e tendo em vista o impacto negativo deste horário sobre as pessoas, propõe-se que a organização de trabalho seja revista. / The present dissertation shows the ergonomic analysis of the work performed in the hydroalcohol product bottling sector at a perfume and cosmetics industry located in the Curitiba metropolitan region. The Macroergonomic Design (MD) tool, proposed by Fogliatto and Guimarães (1999), allowed us to identify the users’ ergonomic demand and ergonomic demand items highlighting the differences existing between the demands of users performing the same task but in different shifts. The issues involving work organization are the ones that mostly affect the company employees, mainly those whose work shift include working on Saturdays. Seeing that before the plant enlargement there was no Saturday shift, and taking into consideration the negative impact the establishment of such shift has on the employees, we propose reviewing the work organization.

Esta dissertação apresenta a análise ergonômica do trabalho no setor de envase de hidroalcoólicos, de uma empresa de artigos de perfumaria e cosméticos na região metropolitana de Curitiba. A ferramenta Design Macroergonômico (DM), proposta por Fogliatto e Guimarães (1999), permitiu identificar os itens de demanda ergonômica dos usuários e evidenciou diferenças entre as demandas de usuários que realizam as mesmas tarefas em turnos diferentes. As questões de organização do trabalho são as que mais afetam os funcionários, principalmente aqueles que trabalham em turnos que incorporam o trabalho no sábado. Como antes da ampliação da fábrica, o trabalho estava organizado sem o turno de sábado, e tendo em vista o impacto negativo deste horário sobre as pessoas, propõe-se que a organização de trabalho seja revista. / The present dissertation shows the ergonomic analysis of the work performed in the hydroalcohol product bottling sector at a perfume and cosmetics industry located in the Curitiba metropolitan region. The Macroergonomic Design (MD) tool, proposed by Fogliatto and Guimarães (1999), allowed us to identify the users’ ergonomic demand and ergonomic demand items highlighting the differences existing between the demands of users performing the same task but in different shifts. The issues involving work organization are the ones that mostly affect the company employees, mainly those whose work shift include working on Saturdays. Seeing that before the plant enlargement there was no Saturday shift, and taking into consideration the negative impact the establishment of such shift has on the employees, we propose reviewing the work organization.

Loyalty programs are one of the tools that serve to create customer loyalty. The aim of this thesis is to determine whether loyalty programs of perfumeries and satisfaction with their impact on customer loyalty. The theoretical research summarizes the available knowledge about consumer behavior, loyalty and loyalty programs. The parfumeria market analysis in the Czech Republic and the content analysis of the MML TGI provide sufficient information about the established loyalty programs and the target group of perfumeries. The practical part, in the form of a questionnaire survey, examines in particular the advantages of the loyalty program and customer satisfaction. Based on the results of the work are in the final part recommendations for more effective loyalty program.

This dissertation was inspired by the discovery of a machine in the industrial wasteland of Pretoria West. The machine, a flour mill built in 1908, has been extended and transformed and layered through time. Symbolic of the context, it now lies silent – its core has been removed long ago. With an odour of mystery, the fate of the complex remains vague as the body of history is lost in time. Rich in textures and details, the tectonics represent the values of function and process. Mysterious, uncertain and contradictory; facts [history, memory, experienced space] and fiction [imagination] begin to blur. The precinct of Pretoria West unfolds as a wasteland, static in nature and detached from civil society. Surreal in character, the condition manifests itself as a disembodied reality and reveals “a place lost in space, lost in time.” It appears that “…even history does not have its place here” [Webster, 2012]. In this context - without memory and deprived of imagination - the public lives in a liminal state of existence. Engulfed in a static condition of the now, the present becomes the only reality. Without roots in the past and projections to the future, the public realm remains indifferent to both. The proposed programmes form part of the investigation into the site’s fragmented past. A natural perfumery in alliance with a glassblowing workshop is explored within the urban framework proposal of the ‘Hard-boiled Wonderland’. Addressing not only the downfall of the artisan brought about by mechanised forms of production but also the static notion of dealing with remembrance, the project focuses on the inspiration of the imagination and collective memory. The hypothesis of a new interface between the public, architecture, memory and imagination is approached through the mnemonics of the everyday. In pursuit of a resolution, the sense of olfaction takes the central role in the formation of public space that invites rituals of remembrance through ordinary daily activities and events. The project explores ways to inspire and reflect on the site’s history and the memory of the civic society using a domain that leaves no trace in history – through the fleeting realm of scent. / Dissertation MArch(Prof))--University of Pretoria, 2012. / Architecture / MArch(Prof) / Unrestricted

This study explores the potential of semiotics in the non-visual realm of perfumery, focusing on the work of French perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena. Utilizing Roland Barthes’ three levels of signification as a theoretical framework – as presented in his essay Rhétorique de l’image – it analyzes the linguistic, denotative and connotative aspects of three perfumes created by Ellena for the French luxury house Hermès: Un Jardin en Méditerranée, Un Jardin sur le Nil and Un Jardin Après la Mousson. These fragrances serve as case studies, revealing how Ellena consciously utilizes perfumery raw materials as signifiers, in order to create olfactive illusions corresponding to a given signified. The study argues that these illusions serve as a primary communicative force within perfumery, transcending the sum of their individual parts to evoke olfactory imagery and symbolic meanings. Drawing on Ellena’s method, the analysis highlights the interplay between textual and olfactory meaning-making, engaging the user in an immersive narrative experience. This study aims to contribute to the broader academic discourse surrounding the sensory arts, underlining the potential of semiotics in understanding the symbolic narratives inherent in the art of perfumery.

Cette thèse a pour objet d'étude la filière des plantes à parfum en Méditerranée occidentale et s'intéresse à sa capacité à valoriser les ressources naturelles. Depuis une dizaine d'années, les matières premières naturelles suscitent autant l'intérêt des fabricants de parfums et de cosmétiques que celui des consommateurs, dans un contexte proprice au développement durable. Elles font également l'objet de mises en valeur territoriales : paysages, techniques industrielles, pratiques locales. Autour de ces ressources naturelles s'agrègent des réseaux d'acteurs dont le rôle est d'assurer la compétitivité des systèmes productifs, face à la demande des utilisateurs et face aux nouvelles normes environnementales. Cet effet de réseau engendre des externalités économiques et culturelles ; nous formulons l'hypothèse que ces effets externes, générées par les systèmes productifs de la Méditerranée occidentale, peuvent être des vecteurs d'innovation. Afin de démontrer les synergies et les rapports de force qui se nouent entre les acteurs, et qui sont au cœur de la dynamique des territoires, la thèse propose une démarche comparative en s'appuyant sur les concepts de système productif, de milieu innovateur et d'économie culturelle. Elle emprunte aussi des éléments d'analyse patrimoniale et paysagère. L'étude concerne cinq pays de la Méditerranée occidentale à l'intérieur desquels nous avons sélectionné des territoires d'échantillon : la région française Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, berceau de la parfumerie industrielle, la côte méditerranéenne de l'Espagne et l'axe Madrid-Murcie, l'axe Rabat-Fès et la Vallée du Dadès au Maroc, le Cap Bon en Tunisie, et la Calabre en Italie. / This thesis aims to study raw materials for perfume manufactury's cluster in western Mediterranean and focuses on its ability to enhance natural resources. Over the last decade, natural substances are attracting growing interest from both perfumes and cosmetics manufacturers and consumers, in a context that favoured sustainable development. They also enhance territorial matters such as landscapes, industrial technology, local practices. Furthermore, actors's network ensure the competitiveness of each productive system, as regards new environmental standards. This “network effect” generates economic and cultural externalities ; then, we hypothesize that these externalities generated by the productive systems of western Mediterranean may be vectors of innovation. In order to show the dynamics and the relationships which link the actors of the cluster, and symbolizing the core of territories's dynamics, the thesis focuses on a comparative approach in relying on the concepts of productive system, innovative “milieu” and cultural economy. It also borrows elements of heritage and landscape analysis. The study concerns five countries of western Mediterranean in which we selected representative samples : the french region Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, cradle of industrial perfume, the Mediterranean coast of Spain and the Madrid-Murcia axis, the Rabat-Fez axis and the Dades Valley in Morocco, Cap Bon in Tunisia, and the italian region of Calabria. Then, this study provides refections on interregional cooperation in a Mediterranean approach.

Ce travail de recherche en muséologie porte sur la présentation de la parfumerie commerciale française dans les musées publics en France que ce soient des musées du parfum ou des musées d’art. En débutant par l’histoire de la présentation des produits commerciaux au musée depuis le milieu du XIXe siècle jusqu’aux expositions de marques de luxe au Costume Institute du Metropolitan Museum of Art dans les années 1980, cette étude se focalise par la suite sur la naissance et le développement de différents projets muséaux publics en lien avec la parfumerie (Château de Chamerolles, Esprit du Parfum à Chartres, Cour des Senteurs de Versailles, Collection Sylvie Guerlain-Traditions Verrières à la ville d’Eu) ainsi que sur l’essor des expositions de marques de luxe, dont de parfumerie, dans les musées publics (Chanel, Dior, Roger & Gallet). Les stratégies des pouvoirs publics, celles des marques de luxe ainsi que les motivations des musées publics qui accueillent les expositions de parfumerie sont analysées à tour de rôle. Une étude à part est dédiée au Musée International de la Parfumerie (1989) à Grasse qui est un musée de référence en France : à son histoire, à sa section contemporaine, à ses partenaires ainsi qu’à ses concurrents comme les parfumeries touristiques Fragonard, Molinard ou Galimard. Le dernier chapitre porte sur la programmation temporaire des grands magasins qui, en privilégiant l’art contemporain et les industries de la mode, développent de véritables équipements culturels à même de concurrencer les musées publics jusqu’à dissoudre progressivement les frontières entre un espace muséal et un espace commercial. / This research in Museum studies focuses on exhibitions of French commercial perfumery in perfume and art museums throughout France. Starting with the history of exhibitions of commercial items in museums from the mid-19th century until luxury brands exhibitions at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in the 1980s, the study examines the birth and the development of different museum projects related to the French perfume industry (Château de Chamerolles, Esprit du Parfum in Chartres, Cour des Senteurs of Versailles, Collection Sylvie Guerlain-Traditions Verrières in the town of Eu) as well as the growth of luxury brands’ exhibitions in public museums (Chanel, Dior, Roger & Gallet). Public authorities’ policies, perfume brands’ strategies or motivations of public museums which host such exhibitions are analyzed one by one. The case of the International Museum of Perfumery (1989) in Grasse deserves a study in its own right: I consider the history of the museum, the museum’s section of the 20th century perfumery, the role of corporate sponsorship in enriching museum collections as well as the local competition from private perfume museums set up by Fragonard, Molinard or Galimard brands. The last chapter focuses on French department stores and their fashion exhibitions’ programs capable of competing with public museums’ attractions and leading to the progressive blurring of boundaries between a museum space and a commercial one.