Tall women's satisfaction with Tall clothing was examined in regard to fit, style, and accessibility. In addition, anthropometric measurements (stature, neck to waist, waist to ankle, shoulder to wrist) of tall women were compared with reported fit problems with Tall clothing, with the measurements from commercial standard PS 42-70, and with two racial groups. Data were gathered from 75 women who were at least 5 feet 8 inches and between 18 and 54 years old. The subjects were satisfied with the overall fit of Tall clothing, but were dissatisfied with the style, and reported buying Misses' size for most clothing. The subjects rated style as more important than fit and were more satisfied with the overall style of Misses' clothing than with the style of Tall clothing. The subjects appeared to buy Misses' clothing despite their dissatisfaction with fit, in order to have the desired styles. The reported fit problems with Tall clothing were too short hiplines in skirts and too short hemlines in button-up blouses. When compared with the measurements for Tall in PS 42-70, the subjects' measurements were significantly larger. Comparisons of measurements between Black subjects and White subjects revealed no significant differences. Style appeared to be a major influence in tall women's dissatisfaction with and the purchase of Tall clothing. Therefore, manufacturers need to consider aesthetic qualities when developing garments for this market and should revise sizing systems to accommodate the fit needs of Tall women. / Master of Science

DIPLOMOVÉ PRÁCE english: This thesis defines the term of a ready-made company. It describes the purchase of a ready-made company, its process and particular phases. The thesis also deals with other areas and specifics of this segment of market economy. It compares the situation in the Czech Republic to other countries, especially to EU member states. It includes also trends and anticipated future development of market with ready-made companies. Finally, the thesis evaluates the position of ready-made companies in market economy

Nesta dissertação, procuramos, a partir da Grande Exposição Universal de Londres em 1851, o início de um debate mais intenso de aproximação da arte com a indústria para, assim, perceber como elementos estéticos começam a permear a vida cotidiana. Essas questões ganham fôlego com as vanguardas, principalmente, com a Bauhaus de Walter Gropius e com o ready-made de Marcel Duchamp. Problematizar como cada um desses artistas buscou o novo, para aproximar Arte e Vida, usando estratégias diferentes, mas recorrendo ao mesmo suporte: o objeto. Ao longo do século XX, perceberemos como, no pós-segunda guerra, há uma mudança no contexto histórico e como as artes plásticas e aplicadas respondem ao debate: arte e indústria, ready-made e Bauhaus. Veremos que as respostas serão com a pop art e as vanguardas italianas do design. Nas décadas de 1960 e 1970, analisamos a sobrecarga da narrativa moderna, tendo a implosão do conjunto residencial Pruitt-Igoe como marco desse processo. O resultado é o ocaso das vanguardas e a centralidade da cultura Kitsch, que inverte a questão levantada por elas de aproximar arte e vida; agora, é a vida cotidiana naquilo que tem de mais banal que se aproxima da arte. As consequências dessa mudança são as repetições de imagens do passado e a descontinuidade na história da arte. Assim, demonstraremos como a arte e os objetos de uso colaboraram com a construção do modo de vida nessa nova tradição. / In this research, we have studied, as from the Great Exhibition of the Works of Industry of All Nations in 1851, in London, the start-up of a more intense debate on the approximation of Art with Industry for, thus, realizing how aesthetic elements begin to make part of everyday life. Such issues are increased with the Avant-Gardes mainly with Walter Gropiuss Bauhaus and the Marcel Duchamps Ready-mades. We have also studied how each of these artists had searched the \"new\" to approach Art and Life using different strategies but the same support: the object. During the 20th century, after the second World War, we may realize that there is a change in the historical context and how Visual Arts and Applied Arts answer to the debate: Art and Industry, Ready-made and Bauhaus. We may see that the answers will be with Pop Art and the Italian Design Vanguards. In the decades of 1960 and 1970, we have analised the overload on the modern narrative, having the implosion of the Pruitt-Igoe residential condo as this process\' milestone. The result is the Avant- Gardes twilight and the Kitsch culture centrality, which inverts the issue they bring up in order to approach Art and Life; now, on the other hand, it\'s everyday life that is close to Art in what it has of most banal. This change consequences are the repetitions of past images and the discontinuity in Art History. Thus, we may demonstrate how Art and objects of use have contributed with the way life construction in this new tradition.

Living as a human being in the 21st century is a more or less constant three-dimensional textile experience. Textiles have a continuous proximity to our bodies as clothing but also as an essential material in our dwellings, both with practical and emotional functions. The Everyday Performing Textiles derives from my deep interest in the qualities and embedded connotations of textiles, the stuff that affectively shapes our material reality. These soft things play different roles in our lives, as parts of a web of function and meaning.  In this thesis I focus on the unobtrusive position of everyday textiles, searching to reflect upon the significance and substance they have within our homes. I predicate that our wellbeing is deeply dependent and connected to the comfort of textiles – it being an emotional material as much as a physical. I use the expectations of materiality as a method, balancing between the familiar and the strange, to challenge and expand our perception of cloth, both as a statement and a query of its value in modern society. I depict everyday textiles in a skewed way, mixing the realistic and the unrealistic, to create an expanded perception of them – playing with their immanent, possibly unspoken, expectations. The Everyday Performing Textiles is an acknowledgement of our textile reality – the existence of this interactive, interdependent relationship in our everyday practice of living.

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Denna studie undersöker hur ett alternativt graderingssätt baserat på förhållandet mellan midja och stuss kan implementeras för att förbättra passformen på dambyxor. Ett vanligt förekommande passformsproblem är att kvinnor som har en rakare eller kurvigare kroppsform upplever svårigheter med att uppnå god passform i både midja och stuss, vilket leder till att en stor del av befolkningen har svårt att hitta byxor som passar. Studien baseras på data från 3D- skanningar av drygt 1000 testpersoner med stussmått som motsvarar storlek 32–48. För att undersöka passformen för kvinnor med varierande kroppstyper delades testpersonerna in i kategorierna rak, medel, och kurvig baserat på förhållandevärdet för midja och stuss, och målet var att förbättra passformen för personerna i samtliga tre kategorier. Resultatet visade att bara genom att byta till ett förhållandebaserat graderingssätt i ”medelserien” kunde fler av testpersonerna uppnå god passform jämfört med det tidigare måttbaserade graderingssättet. När storlekssystemet sedan utökades med den raka och kurviga serien kunde 90% av testpersonerna i studien uppnå god passform. / This study explores how an alternative way of grading based on the ratio between waist and hip can be implemented to improve the fit on women’s trousers. A common fit issue is that women with curvier or straighter body shapes experience difficulties achieving good fit in both waist and hip, which results in a major part of the population having a hard time finding well-fitting trousers. The study is based on data from 3D-scannings of over 1000 test subject with a hip measurement that equals size 32–48. To evaluate fit for women with varying body shapes, the test subjects were divided into the three categories straight, medium, and curvy based on their hip-to-waist ratio, and the goal was to improve the fit for all three groups. The result shows that by only switching to a ratio-based way of grading in the “medium group”, a bigger portion of the test group could achieve good fit compared to the old measurement-based way of grading. When the size system was then extended with the straight and curvy series, 90% of the test subject could achieve good fit.

Master of Science / Food Science Institute -- Animal Science & Industry / Daniel Y.C. Fung / In February 2008, the FDA released a draft Compliance Policy Guide (CPG) on Listeria monocytogenes and proposed that ready-to-eat (RTE) foods that do not support the growth of L. monocytogenes may contain up to 100 CFU/g of this pathogen. Frozen foods such as ice cream fall in that category since they are consumed in the frozen state. However, other frozen foods, such as vegetables and seafood that are thawed and served at salad and food bars, may support the growth of Listeria and would not be allowed to contain 100 CFU/g according to the draft CPG. In the current study, growth curves were generated for L. monocytogenes inoculated onto four thawed frozen foods - corn, green peas, crabmeat, and shrimp - stored at 4, 8, 12, and 20ºC. Growth parameters, lag phase duration (LPD), and exponential growth rate (EGR) were determined using a two-phase linear growth model and the Square Root Model. The results demonstrated that L. monocytogenes has a very short LPD on these thawed frozen foods during refrigerated storage and that there would be several orders of magnitude of growth (i.e., more than 1.7 log increase at 4 ºC) of the organism before the product is found to be organoleptically unacceptable. Although it would not be possible to take advantage of any extended lag phase duration caused by freeze injury to the organism, frozen foods containing less than 100 CFU/g of L. monocytogenes that are thawed, or thawed and cooked, and then consumed immediately, should not represent a public health hazard.

Master of Science / Food Science / Kelly J.K. Getty / Listeria monocytogenes has the potential to contaminate ready-to-eat (RTE) meat and poultry products. Listeria monocytogenes contamination is a hazard that can potentially occur after post-lethality treatment in a processing environment during slicing or packaging of RTE meat products. United States Department of Agriculture’s Food Safety and Inspection Service (USDA/FSIS) requires facilities to have intervention strategies to demonstrate control of this pathogen in RTE meat and poultry products. FSIS categorizes different intervention strategies into Alternative 1, 2, or 3. If an establishment chooses Alternative 1, it must use a post-lethality treatment that reduces or eliminates microorganisms on the product and an antimicrobial agent or process that suppresses or limits the growth of L. monocytogenes. If an establishment chooses Alternative 2, it can either use a post-lethality treatment or an antimicrobial agent or process that suppresses or limits growth of L. monocytogenes. Under Alternative 3, the establishment must have a detailed sanitation program as its intervention strategy. As establishments increase the number of interventions or change from Alternative 3 to 2 to 1, the frequency of FSIS sampling of RTE meat and poultry products for safety and wholesomeness decreases. The effectiveness of post-package decontamination technologies such as high-pressure processing, ultraviolet C light, and pre/post-package surface pasteurization have been researched for controlling L. monocytogenes in RTE products. Formulating meat products with antimicrobial additives such as lactates, sodium lactate and sodium diacetate, potassium lactate and sodium diacetate, sodium levulinate, lauric arginate, glucono-delta-lactone, or organic acids is another common approach to control L. monocytogenes in RTE meat products. Also, a combination of sodium lactate and sodium diacetate in a formulation is an acceptable antimicrobial strategy to provide Alternative 2 status. Bacteriocins such as nisin can also be added to the formulation of RTE meat and poultry products for controlling L. monocytogenes. In addition nisin can be applied as packaging film coating. Another approach for controlling L. monocytogenes in products such as jerky, kippered steaks, snack sticks and turkey tenders is the use of packaging environments and holding times prior to shipping. In conclusion, there are various approaches for controlling L. monocytogenes in RTE meat and poultry products post-lethality and processors should consider these options rather than relying on sanitation alone.

Doctor of Philosophy / Food Science Institute / Elizabeth A. E. Boyle / A total of three studies were conducted to evaluate the effects of different packaging systems and storage times on reduction of Listeria monocytogenes on ready-to-eat meat snacks. Study 1 was conducted to determine the effects of four packaging systems [heat sealed (HS), heat sealed with oxygen scavenger (HSOS), nitrogen flushed with oxygen scavenger (NFOS), and vacuum (VAC)] and storage times (24, 48, and 72 h, and 14 and 30 d) on reduction of L. monocytogenes in turkey jerky in the presence or absence of sodium nitrite. Inclusion of sodium nitrite in turkey jerky did not affect (P>0.05) L. monocytogenes log reductions regardless of packaging type or storage time. After 14 d of storage in HSOS, NFOS, or VAC, and 48 or 72 h in HS, a reduction of >1.0 log CFU/cm² of L. monocytogenes was achieved. Processors could use HS in conjunction with 48 h of ambient storage and be in compliance with the United States Department of Agriculture Food Safety and Inspection Service Listeria Rule of post-lethality treatment in achieving at least 1 log reduction of L. monocytogenes. Study 2 was conducted to investigate attachment of L. monocytogenes to uncured and cured turkey jerky packaged in HS, HSOS, NFOS, or VAC using scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (EDS). The SEM examination showed that L. monocytogenes is capable of adhering to uncured or cured turkey jerky surfaces. Elemental maps from EDS analysis revealed that no element was unique or elevated at sites of L. monocytogenes attachment. Elemental composition showed the presence of elemental sulfur and could be an indication of the presence of sulfur-containing amino acids in turkey jerky. Finally, Study 3 evaluated the affects of two packaging types (HSOS and NFOS) and four ambient storage times (24, 48, and 72 h, and 14 d) on reduction of L. monocytogenes on five commercial RTE meats and poultry snacks (beef tenders, beef jerky, beef sausage sticks, pork jerky, and turkey sausage sticks). A mean reduction of >1.0 log CFU/cm² of L. monocytogenes was achieved on all products, regardless of packaging or storage time. Correlation analysis provided some indication that reduction of L. monocytogenes increased with fat content. However, the strength of linear correlation was not sufficient to account for the differences in log reduction in L. monocytogenes. In study 1, a holding time of 24, 48, or 72 h for HSOS or NFOS packaging of was not effective for reducing L. monocytogenes by at least 1 log on turkey jerky. In contrast, packaging beef tenders, beef jerky, beef sausage sticks, pork jerky, and turkey sausage sticks in HSOS or NFOS for at least 24 h ambient storage was sufficient to achieve at least 1 log reduction in L. monocytogenes population. Specific components such as sulfur-containing amino acids in turkey jerky might be contributing to <1 log reduction of L. monocytogenes population on turkey jerky after 24, 48, or 72 h of ambient storage. Overall, nitrite was not an effective ingredient to control L. monocytogenes in turkey jerky. However, packaging such as HS, HSOS, NFOS or VAC and at least 24 h holding time were effective hurdles for controlling L. monocytogenes at post-lethality.

Master of Science / Food Science Institute - Animal Science & Industry / Fadi M. Aramouni / Determining the optimum cooking instructions for microwavable not-ready-to-eat foods requires an understanding of the factors that affect heating of foods in microwaves. Factors are often studied without consideration of interactions. Consumer-driven factors appear to be the least-studied. Microwave appliance, heat time, flip step, and plate material were studied to determine their effect on final temperature of a frozen hand-held calzone sandwich after heating. Initial studies to ensure wattage stability during testing and a study to narrow down the plates to be tested were also executed. In the central experiment, a calzone was heated on a microwavable plate for one minute, then flipped or not flipped and heated again for the remaining time in each of four microwave ovens. The microwave ovens differed in age and manufacturer, but were of similar stated wattage. Probes were attached to a data logger and temperatures were recorded every 5 seconds for 2 minutes post-heating to attain the average maximum temperature and lowest maximum temperature for each run. The data was evaluated by analysis of variance and significant differences were compared using Tukey means. All factors had significant effects on average maximum temperature and lowest maximum temperature with the exception of the flip step (p< .05). Plate type was the most critical factor. Calzones heated on paper plates were significantly hotter than those on stoneware plates (p<.05). Significant differences were also observed among microwaves and heat times (p<.05). An interaction between microwave and plate type indicated the effect of plate type was not consistent across all microwaves (p<.05). Although flip step, as tested, was not a significant factor, a follow-up experiment to de-couple the effect of the physical flipping of the calzone and the stopping of the microwave during the heating process indicated that the stopping of the microwave was more critical to heating than the actual flip step. A follow-up study of plate type, microwave and heat time in higher-wattage microwaves showed that microwave appliance and heat time again had significant effects on temperature (p<.05), however; plate type was not a significant factor in the higher-wattage microwaves. The effect of plate type was dependent on the exact microwave used. Various plate types and multiple microwaves in each wattage range should be used for development of microwavable frozen calzones because wattage alone cannot predict performance and because of the interaction between microwave and plate type.