Cette thèse traite de la modélisation des tsunamis, des grandes échelles de propagation aux impacts sur desstructures côtières. Un inventaire des phénomènes physiques associés est établi et des modèles adéquats sontprésentés. Une étude numérique avec le modèle de Saint-Venant est effectuée avec le développement d’uneméthode de raffinement de maillage à seuil automatique. La simplicité et les performances de l’approche sontdémontrées. Pour améliorer la précision des prévisions, un système original approchant le modèle Serre-Green-Nahgdi est investigué. Une méthode pour prendre en compte la dissipation d’énergie au déferlement estproposée. Ce modèle permet d’envisager la modélisation fine de la propagation et de l’arrivée à la côte destsunamis dispersifs et non linéaires en des temps de calcul acceptables. Les différents types d’impact sur desstructures sont modélisés grâce à un modèle diphasique compressible permettant de considérer les écoulementsà phases séparées et les milieux aérés. Pour envisager une résolution à tous les régimes, des schémas TousMach sont investigués. Un schéma Tous Mach à variation totale limitée est proposé. Grâce à cette approche,des impacts incompressibles et compressibles sont investigués avec le même modèle. Les impactsd’écoulements aérés induisent des pressions moins élevées mais sur des temps plus longs que leurshomologues en phases pures. Bien que le schéma Tous Mach proposé soit moins sujet aux oscillationsnumériques que les préconditionnements classiques de la littérature, des oscillations non physiques à basnombre de Mach sont mises en évidence sur certains cas tests. Pour finir, une méthode de couplage entremodèles de propagation et d’impact est proposée, afin de pouvoir simuler un tsunami finement avec desmodèles appropriés à chacune de ces phases. / This thesis deals with tsunami modeling, from the large propagation scales to impacts on coastal structures. Aninventory of the associated physical phenomena is given and some adequat models are presented. A numericalstudy is carried out with the Saint-Venant model with the devellopment of an automatic refinment adaptivemesh method. The resolution efficiency and simplicity is justified. To increase the accuracy forecasts, anoriginal system which approximates the Serre-Green-Naghdi model is investigated. A breaking wave methodassociated with this model is proposed. This dissipative model allows thinking about accurate dispersive nonlinear tsunamis simulations up to the coast. Several wave impacts on stuctures are investigated with a generaltwo-phase model allowing separate phases as well as aerated impact studies. The all Mach regime numericaldifficulties are investigated. A new all Mach scheme with limited total variation bound is proposed. Thanks tothis approach, incompressible and compressible impacts are investigated with the same model. Aerated impactsare shown to give smaller impact pressure but on longer time than pure fluid impacts. In spite that the all Machscheme proposed reduces the numerical oscillations of classical literature preconditionning, some unphysicaloscillations are highlighted on some test cases. At the end, a coupling method is proposed in order to accuratlymodel the propagation and the impact of a tsunami with appropriated models for each phases.

京都大学 / 0048 / 新制・課程博士 / 博士(工学) / 甲第19677号 / 工博第4132号 / 新制||工||1638(附属図書館) / 32713 / 京都大学大学院工学研究科都市社会工学専攻 / (主査)教授 五十嵐 晃, 准教授 米山 望, 准教授 森 信人 / 学位規則第4条第1項該当 / Doctor of Philosophy (Engineering) / Kyoto University / DFAM

No description available.

A vessel operating in the real world has to overcome wind, waves and ocean currents. The result of all the above is a motion of 6 degrees of freedom (DOF). Typically, for the maneuvering phase, the Newton-Euler equations are used to derive the equation of motion of the rigid body and the maneuvering theory to model the external forces and moments acting on a vessel. The main topic in this Master Thesis is to assess the maneuvering behavior of a specific container vessel through a 4DOF model. The purpose behind this study is to investigate the differences between the expected maneuvering behavior of the vessel and the operational one. To accomplish that, raw data from the vessel’s sea trials were used and a time domain simulation model created with the sway-roll yaw movements coupled and surge decoupled. The Son and No moto maneuvering model served as the base for the motion equations. The maneuvering coefficients (MC) were firstly estimated by semi-empirical formulas using the vessel particulars. The model was validated using the Esso Osaka sea trials data. The validation was limited to maneuvering parameters such as advance, tactical diameter, yaw overshoot angle etc. The final model was used on the sea trials data of the container vessel taking into consideration the wind forces through the Blender mann wind model. Moreover, correction factors for swallow water effects were used on the MC in order to provide a better accuracy and also to allow comparison between the operational data and the simulated ones since the sea trials depth could not be considered as deep waters. Finally, a system identification procedure was perfomed in order to investigate the possibility of identifying the exact MC values of a vessel. The results were encouraging. The simulation follows the patterns of the raw data relative accurately. In addition, the swallow water corrections provided enough evidence of the different behavior of the vessel depending on the depth under keel. From the SI side, a list of issues were encountered like parameter drift, multicollinearity and cost function prone to local minimum. A series of different procedures and algorithm proposed to overcome those difficulties and the results were promising.

Yes / Based on the common approach, the adaptation length in sediment transport is normally estimated in the temporal independence. However, this approach might not be theoretically justified as the process of reaching of the sediment transport equilibrium stage is affected by the flow conditions in time, especially for those fast sediment moving flows, such as scour-hole developing flow. In this study, the 2D shallow water formulation together with a sediment continuity-concentration (SCC) model were applied to flow with mobile sediment boundary. A time-varying approach was proposed to determine the sediment transport adaptation length to treat the flow sediment erosion-deposition rate. The proposed computational model was based on the Finite Volume (FV) method. The Monotone Upwind Scheme of Conservative Laws (MUSCL)-Hancock scheme was used with the Harten Lax van Leer-contact (HLLC) approximate Riemann solver to discretize the FV model. In the flow applications of this paper, a highly discontinuous dam-break fast sediment transport flow was used to calibrate the proposed time-varying sediment adaptation length model. Then the calibrated model was further applied to two separate experimental sediment transport flow applications documented in literature, i.e. a highly concentrated sediment transport flow in a wide alluvial channel and a sediment aggradation flow. Good agreements with the experimental data were presented by the proposed model simulations. The tests prove that the proposed model, which was calibrated by the discontinuous dam-break bed scouring flow, also performed well to represent the rapid bed change and the steady sediment mobility conditions. / The National Natural Science Foundation of China NSFC (Grant Number 20101311246), Major State Basic Research Development Program (973 program) of China (Grant Number 2013CB036402) and Open Fund of the State Key Laboratory of Hydraulics and Mountain River Engineering, Sichuan University of China (Grant Number SKLH-OF-1103).

This dissertation investigates the use of remotely sensed data in coastal tide and inundation models, specifically how these data could be more effectively integrated into model construction and performance assessment techniques. It includes a review of numerical wetting and drying algorithms, a method for constructing a seamless digital terrain model including the handling of tidal datums, an investigation into the accuracy of land use / land cover (LULC) based surface roughness parameterization schemes, an application of a cutting edge remotely sensed inundation detection method to assess the performance of a tidal model, and a preliminary investigation into using 3-dimensional airborne laser scanning data to parameterize surface roughness. A thorough academic review of wetting and drying algorithms employed by contemporary numerical tidal models was conducted. Since nearly all population centers and valuable property are located in the overland regions of the model domain, the coastal models must adequately describe the inundation physics here. This is accomplished by techniques that generally fall into four categories: Thin film, Element removal, Depth extrapolation, and Negative depth. While nearly all wetting and drying algorithms can be classified as one of the four types, each model is distinct and unique in its actual implementation. The use of spatial elevation data is essential to accurate coastal modeling. Remotely sensed LiDAR is the standard data source for constructing topographic digital terrain models (DTM). Hydrographic soundings provide bathymetric elevation information. These data are combined to form a seamless topobathy surface that is the foundation for distributed coastal models. A three-point inverse distance weighting method was developed in order to account for the spatial variability of bathymetry data referenced to tidal datums. This method was applied to the Tampa Bay region of Florida in order to produce a seamless topobathy DTM. Remotely sensed data also contribute to the parameterization of surface roughness. It is used to develop land use / land cover (LULC) data that is in turn used to specify spatially distributed bottom friction and aerodynamic roughness parameters across the model domain. However, these parameters are continuous variables that are a function of the size, shape and density of the terrain and above-ground obstacles. By using LULC data, much of the variation specific to local areas is generalized due to the categorical nature of the data. This was tested by comparing surface roughness parameters computed based on field measurements to those assigned by LULC data at 24 sites across Florida. Using a t-test to quantify the comparison, it was proven that the parameterizations are significantly different. Taking the field measured parameters as ground truth, it is evident that parameterizing surface roughness based on LULC data is deficient. In addition to providing input parameters, remotely sensed data can also be used to assess the performance of coastal models. Traditional methods of model performance testing include harmonic resynthesis of tidal constituents, water level time series analysis, and comparison to measured high water marks. A new performance assessment that measures a model's ability to predict the extent of inundation was applied to a northern Gulf of Mexico tidal model. The new method, termed the synergetic method, is based on detecting inundation area at specific points in time using satellite imagery. This detected inundation area is compared to that predicted by a time-synchronized tidal model to assess the performance of model in this respect. It was shown that the synergetic method produces performance metrics that corroborate the results of traditional methods and is useful in assessing the performance of tidal and storm surge models. It was also shown that the subject tidal model is capable of correctly classifying pixels as wet or dry on over 85% of the sample areas. Lastly, since it has been shown that parameterizing surface roughness using LULC data is deficient, progress toward a new parameterization scheme based on 3-dimensional LiDAR point cloud data is presented. By computing statistics for the entire point cloud along with the implementation of moving window and polynomial fit approaches, empirical relationships were determined that allow the point cloud to estimate surface roughness parameters. A multi-variate regression approach was chosen to investigate the relationship(s) between the predictor variables (LiDAR statistics) and the response variables (surface roughness parameters). It was shown that the empirical fit is weak when comparing the surface roughness parameters to the LiDAR data. The fit was improved by comparing the LiDAR to the more directly measured source terms of the equations used to compute the surface roughness parameters. Future work will involve using these empirical relationships to parameterize a model in the northern Gulf of Mexico and comparing the hydrodynamic results to those of the same model parameterized using contemporary methods. In conclusion, through the work presented herein, it was demonstrated that incorporating remotely sensed data into coastal models provides many benefits including more accurate topobathy descriptions, the potential to provide more accurate surface roughness parameterizations, and more insightful performance assessments. All of these conclusions were achieved using data that is readily available to the scientific community and, with the exception of the Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) from the Radarsat-1 project used in the inundation detection method, are available free of charge. Airborne LiDAR data are extremely rich sources of information about the terrain that can be exploited in the context of coastal modeling. The data can be used to construct digital terrain models (DTMs), assist in the analysis of satellite remote sensing data, and describe the roughness of the landscape thereby maximizing the cost effectiveness of the data acquisition.

Les écoulements en eau peu profonde se rencontrent dans de nombreuses situations d’intérêts : écoulements de rivières et dans les lacs, mais aussi dans les mers et océans (courants de marée, tsunami, etc.). Ils sont modélisés par un système d’équations aux dérivées partielles, où les inconnues sont la vitesse de l’écoulement et la hauteur d’eau. On peut supposer que la composante verticale de la vitesse est petite devant les composantes horizontales et que ces dernières sont indépendantes de la profondeur. Le modèle est alors donné par les équations de shallow water (SWEs). Cette thèse se concentre sur la conception d’une nouvelle technique d’interaction de plusieurs grilles imbriquées pour modèle en eau peu profonde en utilisant des méthodes numériques. La première partie de cette thèse comprend, La dérivation complète de ces équations à partir des équations de Navier- Stokes est expliquée. Etudier le développement et l’évaluation des méthodes numériques en utilisant des méthodes de différences finies et plusieurs exemples numériques sont appliqués utilisant la condition initiale du niveau gaussien pour 2DSWEs. Dans la deuxième partie de la thèse, nous sommes intéressés à proposer une nouvelle technique d’interaction de plusieurs grilles imbriquées pour résoudre les modèles océaniques en utilisant quatre choix des opérateurs de restriction avec des résultats de haute précision. Notre travail s’est concentré sur la résolution numérique de SWE par grilles imbriquées. A chaque niveau de résolution, nous avons utilisé une méthode classique de différences finies sur une grille C d’Arakawa, avec un schéma de leapfrog complété par un filtre d’Asselin. Afin de pouvoir affiner les calculs dans les régions perturbées et de les alléger dans les zones calmes, nous avons considéré plusieurs niveaux de résolution en utilisant des grilles imbriquées. Ceci permet d’augmenter considérablement le rapport performance de la méthode, à condition de régler efficacement les interactions (spatiales et temporelles) entre les grilles. Dans la troisième partie de cette thèse, plusieurs exemples numéériques sont testés pour 2DSWE avec imbriqués 3:1 et 5:1. Finalement, la quatrième partie de ce travail, certaines applications de grilles imbriquées pour le modèle tsunami sont présentées. / Most flows in the rivers, seas, and ocean are shallow water flow in which the horizontal length andvelocity scales are much larger than the vertical ones. The mathematical formulation of these flows, so called shallow water equations (SWEs). These equations are a system of hyperbolic partial differentialequations and they are effective for many physical phenomena in the oceans, coastal regions, riversand canals. This thesis focuses on the design of a new two-way interaction technique for multiple nested grids 2DSWEs using the numerical methods. The first part of this thesis includes, proposing several ways to develop the derivation of shallow water model. The complete derivation of this system from Navier-Stokes equations is explained. Studying the development and evaluation of numerical methods by suggesting new spatial and temporal discretization techniques in a standard C-grid using an explicit finite difference method in space and leapfrog with Robert-Asselin filter in time which are effective for modeling in oceanic and atmospheric flows. Several numerical examples for this model using Gaussian level initial condition are implemented in order to validate the efficiency of the proposed method. In the second part of our work, we are interested to propose a new two-way interaction technique for multiple nested grids to solve ocean models using four choices of higher restriction operators (update schemes) for the free surface elevation and velocities with high accuracy results. Our work focused on the numerical resolution of SWEs by nested grids. At each level of resolution, we used explicit finite differences methods on Arakawa C-grid. In order to be able to refine the calculations in troubled regions and move them into quiet areas, we have considered several levels of resolution using nested grids. This makes it possible to considerably increase the performance ratio of the method, provided that the interactions (spatial and temporal) between the grids are effectively controlled. In the third part of this thesis, several numerical examples are tested to show and verify twoway interaction technique for multiple nested grids of shallow water models can works efficiently over different periods of time with nesting 3:1 and 5:1 at multiple levels. Some examples for multiple nested grids of the tsunami model with nesting 5:1 using moving boundary conditions are tested in the fourth part of this work.

Ce manuscrit porte sur la modélisation et la simulation numérique d’écoulements diphasiques compressibles. Dans ce contexte, les méthodes d’interfaces diffuses sont aujourd’hui bien acceptées. Cependant, un progrès est encore attendu en ce qui concerne la précision de la capture numérique de ces interfaces. Une nouvelle méthode est développée et permet de réduire significativement cette zone de capture. Cette méthode se place dans le contexte des méthodes numériques de type “MUSCL”, très employées dans les codes de production, et sur maillages non-structurés. Ces interfaces pouvant être le lieu où une transition de phase s’opère, celle-ci est considérée au travers d’un processus de relaxation des énergies libres de Gibbs. Un nouveau solveur de relaxation à thermodynamique rapide est développé et s’avère précis, rapide et robuste y compris lors du passage vers les limites monophasiques. En outre, par rapport aux applications industrielles envisagées, une extension de la thermodynamique des phases et du mélange est nécessaire. Une nouvelle équation d’état est développée en conséquence. La formulation est convexe et est basée sur l’équation d’état “Noble-Abel-Stiffened-Gas”. Enfin, sur un autre plan la dispersion de fluides non-miscibles sous l’effet de la gravité est également abordée. Cette problématique fait apparaître de larges échelles de temps et d’espace et motive le développement d’un nouveau modèle multi-fluide de type “shallow water bi-couche”. Sa résolution numérique est également traitée / This manuscript addresses the theoretical modeling and numerical simulation of compressible two-phase flows. In this context, diffuse interface methods are now well-accepted but progress is still needed at the level of numerical accuracy regarding their capture. A new method is developed in this research work, that allows significant sharpening. This method can be placed in the framework of MUSCL-type schemes, widely used in production codes and on unstructured grids. Phase transition is addressed as well through a relaxation process relying on Gibbs free energies. A new instantaneous relaxation solver is developed and happens to be accurate, fast and robust. Moreover, in view of the intended industrial applications, an extension of the thermodynamics of the phases and of the mixture is necessary. A new equation of state is consequently developed. The formulation is convex and based on the “Noble-Abel-Stiffened-Gas” equation of state. In another context, the dispersion of non-miscible fluids under gravity effects is considered as well. This problematic involves large time and space scales and has motivated the development of a new multi-fluid model for “two-layer shallow water” flows. Its numerical resolution is treated as well

This thesis presents the construction, the analysis and the verication of compact residual discretizations for the solution of conservation laws on unstructured meshes. The schemes considered belong to the class of residual distribution (RD) or fluctuation splitting (FS) schemes. The methodology presented relies on three main elements: design of compact linear first-order stable schemes for linear hyperbolic PDEs, a positivity preserving procedure mapping stable first-order linear schemes onto nonlinear second-order schemes with non-oscillatory shock capturing capabilities, and a conservative formulation enabling to extend the schemes to nonlinear CLs. These three design steps, and the underlying theoretical tools, are discussed in depth. The nonlinear RD schemes resulting from this construction are tested on a large set of problems involving the solution of scalar models, and systems of CLs. This extensive verification fills the gaps left open, where no theoretical analysis is possible. Numerical results are presented on the Euler equations of a perfect gas, on a two-phase flow model with highly nonlinear thermodynamics, and on the shallow-water equations. On irregular grids, the schemes proposed yield quite accurate and stable solutions even on very difficult computations. Direct comparisone show that these results are more accurate than the ones given by FV and WENO schemes. Moreover, our schemes have a compact nearest-neighbor stencil. This encourages to further develop our approach, toward the design of very high-order schemes, which would represent a very appealing alternative, both in terms of accuracy and efficiency, to now classical FV and ENO/WENO discretizations. These schemes might also be very competitive with respect to very high-order DG schemes.

In studies of the ocean it has become conventional to retain only the component of the Coriolis force associated with the radial component of the Earth’s rotation vector, the so-called “traditional approximation”. We investigate the role of the “non-traditional” component of the Coriolis force, corresponding to the non-radial component of the rotation vector, in transporting abyssal waters across the equator. We first derive a non-traditional generalisation of the multi-layer shallow water equations, which describe the flow of multiple superposed layers of inviscid, incompressible fluid with constant densities over prescribed topography in a rotating frame. We derive these equations both by averaging the three-dimensional governing equations over each layer, and via Hamilton’s principle. The latter derivation guarantees that conservation laws for mass, momentum, energy and potential vorticity are preserved. Within geophysically realistic parameters, including the complete Coriolis force modifies the domain of hyperbolicity of the multi-layer equations by no more than 5%. By contrast, long linear plane waves exhibit dramatic structural changes due to reconnection of the surface and internal wave modes in the long-wave limit. We use our non-traditional shallow water equations as an idealised model of an abyssal current flowing beneath a less dense upper ocean. We focus on the Antarctic Bottom Water, which crosses the equator in the western Atlantic ocean, where the bathymetry forms an almost-westward channel. Cross-equatorial flow is strongly constrained by potential vorticity conservation, which requires fluid to acquire a large relative vorticity in order to move between hemispheres. Including the complete Coriolis force accounts for the fact that fluid crossing the equator in an eastward/westward channel experiences a smaller change in angular momentum, and therefore acquires less relative vorticity. Our analytical and numerical solutions for shallow water flow over idealised channel topography show that the non-traditional component of the Coriolis force facilitates cross-equatorial flow through an almost-westward channel.