Orientador: Ricardo de Lima Isaac / Dissertação (mestrado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Faculdade de Engenharia Civil / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-04T08:46:54Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Porto_LuizCarlosdaSilva_M.pdf: 5854701 bytes, checksum: 8b8c1f5f9c94a0d763536c68fc82d3de (MD5) Previous issue date: 2002 / Resumo: O tratamento do efluente de indústrias têxteis é complexo, devido a sua variabilidade e à presença de substâncias tóxicas e lentamente biodegradáveis.Consequentemente, as regulamentações ambientais mais rigorosas e as pressões da sociedade e do mercado trazem um grande desafio às indústrias têxteis, principalmente às pequenas e médias. O objetivo deste trabalho foi avaliar o emprego do sistema de lodos ativados em batelada com adição de carvão ativado em pó (LAB/CAP), tema incipiente no Brasil, para o tratamento do efluente de uma indústria de beneficiamento têxtil, comparando-o com o sistema convencional (LAB). O efluente bruto estudado apresentou concentração média de carbono orgânico dissolvido (COD) de 177,21 :t 50,24 mg/L e valor médio de cor de 190 :t 94 unidades ADMI. Na Fase 1 realizaram-se ensaios de adsorção com o efluente industrial, a fim de escolher o melhor carvão ativado em pó (CAP) para o emprego no sistema biológico. Na Fase 2 foram operados seis reatores de quatro litros cada, com ciclos de 24 horas, um funcionando como controle e cinco com concentrações variando de 250 a 2.000 mg CAP/L. Na Fase 3 foram operados dois reatores, com três ciclos diários, um sem CAP e o outro com 1.000 mg CAP/L. Na Fase 4, adicionou-se CAP ao sistema LAB de uma indústria têxtil. Os resultados obtidos demonstraram que, em comparação com o sistema LAB, o sistema LAB/CAP apresentou maior eficiência de remoção de COD (diferença de até 6,56%) e de cor (diferença de até 46,63% no efluente tratado), maior nitrificação do efluente industrial (diferença de 43,14%), maior concentração de biomassa no reator (diferença de até 43,11 %) e maior estabilidade frente a variações de carga orgânica afluente. O custo de operação do sistema estudado, referente apenas à adição de CAP, foi de 0,03 US$/m3 tratado (valor de julho de 2001). O sistema LAB/CAP é, portanto, uma alternativa para aprimorar o tratamento biológico de efluentes têxteis, inclusive nas pequenas e médias empresas / Abstract: The treatment of textile wastewater is complex because it is highly variable and has xenobiotic compounds. Consequently, not only stringent environmental regulations but also society and market pressures result in an enormous challenge to textile industries, mainly small and middle-sized ones. The aim of this research was to investigate the use of sequencing batch reactor with addition of powdered activated carbon (SBR/P AC), which is an incipient subject in Brazil, to treatment of wastewater from a textile dyeing and finishing company, making a comparison with the conventional system (SBR). Raw industrial effluent had average DOC = 177,21 :t 50,24 mg/L and average color = 190 :t 94 ADMI units. At Phase 1 the best P AC for addition to biological system was found by adsorption tests. At Phase 2 six reactors with four liters each were operated with 24 hours of total cycle, one working as control and five working with concentration varying from 250 to 2.000 mg P AC/L. At Phase 3 two reactors were operated, at three cycle daily, one without PAC and another with 1.000 mg PAC/L. At Phase 4 PAC was additioned to the SBR plant of a textile mill. The results showed that, compared to the SBR, SBR/P AC presented higher DOC removal (difference up to 6,56%), higher color removal (difference up to 46,63% at treated wastewater), higher nitrification of waste water (difference of 43,14%), higher biomass concentration in reactor (difference up to 43,11 %) and higher stability to influent organic load variation. SBR/P AC operation cost , refered only to P AC addition, was 0,03 US$/m3 treated (as Ju1y 2001). Therefore, SBR/PAC is an alternative to improve biological treatment of textile wastewater, even in small and middle-sized companies / Mestrado / Saneamento e Ambiente / Mestre em Engenharia Civil

What other means of influence exist in business other than economic? That is the question we set out to answer in regards to the fashion industry and the specific supply chain of cashmere. The cashmere industry has been described as complex, therefore the research has taken a complex adaptive systems approach to investigate how relationships between parts give rise to the collective behaviours of a system and how the system interacts and forms relationships with its environment. This paper describes a qualitative case study research conducted to identify the potential influence that a small to medium enterprises can have on their supply chain actors to steer them towards sustainability. Looking specifically at the supply chain of one Scottish cashmere manufacturer within the luxury fashion industry we have assessed this company’s current reality to the Framework for Strategic Sustainable Development. This paper aims to present enablers and barriers towards influence, their correlations and complexity when looking at sustainability. In addition it will provide prescriptive thoughts for SMEs to support internal and external transition through sustainable development towards a sustainable cashmere supply chain.

Orientador: Claudio Henrique de Moraes Batalha / Tese (doutorado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Instituto de Filosofia e Ciências Humanas / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-27T02:49:45Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Ferreira_Cristina_D.pdf: 5303098 bytes, checksum: 326c460735de22e2b12aedf4bcfdd97e (MD5) Previous issue date: 2015 / Resumo: O propósito da tese é estudar o modo como os trabalhadores urbanos do segmento têxtil de Blumenau constituíram suas culturas de classe, notadamente em relação ao universo da sociabilidade e da política, considerados elementos indissociáveis na dimensão do cotidiano operário (1958 a 1968). Nos espaços associativos do entorno das fábricas predominavam a leitura e o desporto, bem como as festas (Primeiro de Maio e Junina) no exercício de suas formas de sociabilidade. No campo da política, as práticas trabalhistas engendradas pelo Partido Trabalhista Brasileiro, além de outras vivências construídas na transição da experiência democrática à ditadura civil-militar, foram relacionadas às ações dos trabalhadores / Abstract: The purpose of this thesis is to study how urban workers from Blumenau¿s textile segment constituted their class cultures, especially in relation to the universe of sociability and politics, considered as indivisible elements in the dimension of the workers¿ daily life (1958-1968). In associative spaces surrounding the factories predominated the reading and the sports, as well as festivities (May Day and June Festival) in the exercise of their forms of sociability. In the field of politics, the labor practices engendered by the Brazilian Labor Party, besides other experiences built during the transition from the democratic experience to the civil-military dictatorship, were related to the workers actions / Doutorado / Historia Social / Doutora em História

O objetivo deste estudo foi escrever a história da empresa têxtil Malharia Nossa Senhora da Conceição, pioneira na fabricação de meias finas na América Latina, sediada na cidade de Jacareí SP. Ela foi fundada em 1879, por Luiz Simon e, a partir de 1944, passou a pertencer à família Haddad. A relevância do estudo está no fato de ser uma empresa centenária, ainda ativa, que permitiu a análise do modelo de industrialização brasileira através da sua história. Ao longo de sua trajetória, comprovou-se que as principais características da Malharia foram: a visão estratégica para buscar oportunidades, a inovação e a qualidade. A empresa conquistou espaço no mercado, mesmo em épocas de crise. Utilizou das mais avançadas tecnologias para a produção de meias e buscou a qualidade para diferenciar os seus produtos no mercado. No transcorrer de sua existência, a qualidade dos produtos gerou o reconhecimento através de diversos prêmios e homenagens recebidos. A inovação foi demonstrada pelo seu pionerismo na produção de diversos produtos. Isso evidenciou a prosperidade dessa fábrica através de sua tradição consolidada por mais de um século de existência e de sua permanência no mercado até os dias atuais. Para a elaboração deste trabalho, fez-se um levantamento bibliográfico sobre o assunto; uma pesquisa documental no acervo da Malharia Nossa Senhora da Conceição e da Imprensa Oficial do Estado de São Paulo e uma entrevista com o principal executivo da organização. O levantamento dos dados sobre a trajetória da empresa tem grande importância porque foi elaborado, por meio de um trabalho consistente de crítica e de seleção de informações que se apresenta como um instrumento que contribuirá para uma melhor compreensão da história da empresa, da região em que ela atua e do próprio país. / The purpose of this study was to write the history of the textile company Malharia Nossa Senhora da Conceição, the pioneer in the manufacture of stockings in Latin America, headquartered in Jacareí SPs city. It was founded in 1879 by Simon Luiz; however, Haddad family owned since 1944. The relevance of the study is the fact that a century-old company, still active, alloawed the analysis of the model of Brazilian industrialization through its history. Throughout its career was shown that the main features of Malharia were strategic vision to pursue opportunities, the innovation and the quality. The company has space in the market, even in crisiss times. It is used the most advanced technologies for the production of socks and the quality to differentiate their products on the market. The quality of their products given recognition through several awards and honors received. The innovation was demonstrated by its pioneering in the production of several products. This showed the prosperity of the plant through its established tradition for more than a century and remain on the market nowadays. To do this work, there was several literature on the subject, documentary research on the achievements of Malharia Nossa Senhora da Conceição and an interview with the CEO of the organization. It was proven the relevance of the study on the history of business writing, through a consistent and critical selection of information that is presented as an instrument that will contribute to better understanding of the companys history, the region in which it acts and the country itself.

El texto completo de este trabajo no está disponible en el Repositorio Académico UPC por restricciones de la casa editorial donde ha sido publicado. / This study proposes a production model that increases the manufacturing capacity in a small and medium-sized enterprise (SME) of garments with an aim to reduce the nonfulfillment of order deliveries. An assessment has been done and waiting times between production processes have been identified, along with defective products and inefficient work methods. This study proposes the design of a lean manufacturing model under the change management approach, whose methodology comprises five phases. In phase 0, awareness and training sessions are conducted (change management). Then, phase 1 reorganizes the work area (plant layout re-distribution and 5S) and phase 2 seeks better workload balances (line balance and Heijunka implementation). Later, phase 3 standardizes work methods (standardization). Finally, the proposed model will be validated to determine whether the selected operating tools are supported by the awareness that contributes to increasing production. © 2021, Springer Nature Switzerland AG. / Revisión por pares

La industria del sector textil abarca un abanico de posibilidades de desarrollo de productos, desde las fibras, hilos, tejidos, telas, acabados, hasta la confección de prendas de vestir. Asimismo, en los últimos años se han registrado variaciones de producción en la industria textil del país. Como parte del presente trabajo de tesis, se ha utilizado información de los últimos cinco años de la empresa Textil Cumpi Perú S.A.C., especialista en el desarrollo de telas alternativas para una variedad de productos textiles dirigidos al mercado nacional e internacional. La hipótesis de la presente tesis sostiene que la aplicación de la metodología del estudio del trabajo incrementará la productividad del proceso de producción de tejeduría, estandarizando los procesos de producción y permitiendo identificar y reducir defectos de los rollos de tela en la empresa citada. El problema identificado en dicha empresa es la elevada cantidad de defectos (producto no conforme) de los rollos de tela en el proceso de tejeduría, que viene superando el nivel máximo permitido por ésta. La variedad de defectos de los rollos de tela comprende lo siguiente: motas, contaminación de tela, mechas de hilo y caídas de tela. En base a ello, se revisaron y estudiaron a profundidad bibliografía y trabajos de investigación indexados referentes a la metodología del estudio del trabajo, así como sobre el uso de herramientas de ingeniería industrial y casos de éxito de la industria textil para mejorar los procesos e incrementar la productividad en el proceso de tejeduría. Luego de realizar las evaluaciones correspondientes, y con la autorización de la empresa, se desarrolló un plan piloto y simulaciones con un software para validar los resultados reales de la implementación, donde se concluyó que, al aplicar la metodología del estudio del trabajo, se logró incrementar la productividad en 11%, a partir de la reducción de más de 480 rollos de tela no conformes en el proceso e tejeduría y obteniendo ahorros de más de $48,000 dólares anuales. Se espera que el presente estudio sea motivo de investigación dentro de la industria textil. / The textile industry encompasses a range of product development possibilities, from fibers, yarns, fabrics, textile finishes, to garment manufacturing. Likewise, in recent years there have been production variations in the nation’s textile industry. As part of this thesis work, data from the last five years of the company Textil Cumpi Perú S.A.C. have been used, a specialized enterprise in the development of alternative fabrics for a variety of textile products aimed at the national and international market. The hypothesis of the present thesis suggests that the application of the work study methodology will increase the weaving production process’ productivity, standardizing production processes and allowing the identification and reduction of defects of the fabric rolls in the aforementioned company. The problem identified in this enterprise is the high number of defects (nonconforming product) of the fabric rolls in the weaving process, which has been exceeding the maximum level allowed by the company. The variety of fabric roll defects includes the following: speckles, fabric contamination, yarn wicks and fabric sags. Based on this, an in-depth literature review was performed, which included indexed research studies referring to the work study methodology, use of industrial engineering tools and success stories of the textile industry for improving processes and increase productivity in the weaving process. After conducting the corresponding evaluations, and with the authorization of the company, a pilot plan and simulations with software were developed to validate the real results of the implementation, where it was concluded that, by applying the work study methodology, it was possible to increase productivity by 11%, from the reduction of more than 480 nonconforming fabric rolls in the weaving process and obtaining savings of more than $48,000 (USD) annually. It is expected that this study becomes a reason for research within the textile field and industry. / Trabajo de Suficiencia Profesional

The objective of the presented diploma thesis is to evaluate the influence of modification on surface layer of products with their base structure from organical fibers and on the ability to resist increased humidity. Emphasis is puted on the description of humidity propagation in fiber materials ant he approximation of secondary waste from the textile industry as a potencional material for thermal insulation. The end of the theoretical part focuses on the types of possible surface treatment to prevent the ingress water into the structure of the material. The practical part verifies the selected type of modification of the surface layer of three materials choosen as test ensemble. After applying surface treatment, the effect of treatment on humidity sensitivity and water absorption was assessed. The determination of the thermal conductivity coefficient, the short-term absorption at partial immersion and the determination of the sorption humidity were made.

The thesis is focused on reducing number of nonconformities using quality tools in the company engaged in dyeing and finishing of textile materials. The aim is a proposal of nonconformities management system. Based on analysis of the current method solving nonconformities are designed registration processes of internal nonconformities and complaints, which are followed by evaluation of nonconformities. The proposal will result in a systematic approach in solving of nonconformities.

La implementación de la metodología y la filosofía Lean Manufacturing en la industria de la confección funciona como un método para mejorar la eficiencia y la productividad. Este estudio demuestra la aplicación de herramientas de ingeniería industrial en una MIPYME de fabricación de ropa en combinación con los principios de Lean Manufacturing para resolver problemas en el área de confección. Las herramientas de la ingeniería industrial, como el estudio de métodos, el rediseño de layout y el balance de línea, nos brindan los medios para visualizar los problemas relacionados con la producción de una prenda, como exceso de inventario en proceso, distribución incorrecta de la planta que provocó movimientos innecesarios y retrasos en el cumplimiento de la producción debido a métodos de trabajo ineficientes. Después de evaluar una MIPYME de confección en Perú, los resultados mostraron que todos estos problemas estaban presentes. Finalmente, se propone y simula un modelo de solución utilizando las herramientas mencionadas anteriormente con el fin de optimizar el proceso productivo. Los resultados muestran una mejora del 7,38% en eficiencia. / The implementation of Lean Manufacturing methodology and philosophy in the garment industry works as a method to improve efficiency and productivity. This study demonstrates the application of industrial engineering tools in a clothing manufacturing SME in combination with Lean Manufacturing principles to solve problems in the sewing section. The industrial engineering tools, such as method study, the rearrangement of layout and the line balance, gives us the means to visualize the problems related to the production of a garment, such as excess inventory in the storage and production process, incorrect plant distribution that caused unnecessary movements and delays in production compliance due to inefficient work methods. After evaluating a garment SME in Peru, the results showed that all these problems were present. Finally, a solution model is proposed and simulated using the previously mentioned tools in order to optimize the production process. The results show an improvement of 7.38% in efficiency / Trabajo de investigación

En la presente investigación, se realiza una propuesta de mejora de la gestión de proveedores utilizando la técnica de clustering, con el fin de reducir los pedidos fuera de especificación de tiempo y calidad en una empresa de confección peruana. El problema se origina en la asignación de pedidos y en la tercerización de la producción, lo cual ocasiona hasta un 19% de incumplimiento en las especificaciones de los pedidos y representa hasta el 23% de pérdida sobre la utilidad neta de la empresa. El resultado del modelo de clúster, aplicado en los proveedores de servicio busca reducir la cantidad de pedidos atrasados de la empresa. Este modelo es validado mediante una simulación basada en “cómo hubiera sido” el resultado de aplicar la propuesta en el año anterior. En base al sector, se determinó que el incumplimiento se redujera hasta 5%; sin embargo, los resultados de la simulación en el escenario promedio indicaron 3.39% de incumplimiento. / In this research, a proposal is made to improve supplier management using the clustering technique, to reduce orders out of specification for time and quality in a Peruvian clothing company. The problem originates from the allocation of orders and the outsourcing of production, which causes up to 19% of non-compliance with the specifications of the orders and represents up to 23% of loss on the net profit of the company. The result of the cluster model, applied in service providers, seeks to reduce the number of backorders for the company. This model is validated through a simulation based on "how it would have been" the result of applying the proposal in the previous year. Based on the sector, it was determined that non-compliance was reduced to 5%; however, the simulation results in the average scenario indicated 3.39% non-compliance. / Trabajo de investigación