La RSC cumple en la comunicación externa una Rol fundamental en el crecimiento de la imagen de las empresas porque forma la percepción que tienen los públicos, por lo que es importante saber si verdaderamente realizan dichas acciones y como las dan a conocer. Por consiguiente, la presente investigación tuvo como objetivo principal analizar la responsabilidad social corporativa de las empresas textiles H&M y ZARA. Como objetivos específicos se identificó las acciones de la RSC de H&M y Zara. Asimismo, se explicó los mensajes online que transmiten las acciones de la RSC de las compañías. Además, de comparar las actividades de responsabilidad social corporativa de H&M y Zara. Se usó una metodología cualitativa con paradigma naturalista, bajo el enfoque hermenéutico. Se llegó a la conclusión de que H&M y Zara si realizan acciones de Responsabilidad social corporativa, mediante posts, ya sean vídeos e imágenes. Además, se logró conocer las opiniones de las personas y sus reacciones frente a los mensajes transmitidos por las redes sociales de las empresas textiles. / CSR fulfills a fundamental function in external communication in the growth of the image of companies because it forms the perception that the public has, so it is important to know if they really carry out these actions and how they make them known. Therefore, the main objective of this research was to analyze the corporate social responsibility of the textile companies H&M and ZARA. The CSR actions of H&M and Zara were identified as specific objectives. Likewise, the online messages that transmit the CSR actions of companies were explained. Also, compare the corporate social responsibility activities of H&M and Zara. A qualitative methodology with a naturalistic paradigm was used, under the hermeneutic approach. It was concluded that H&M and Zara do carry out Corporate Social Responsibility actions, through publications, whether they are videos or images. In addition, the opinions of the people and their reactions to the messages transmitted by the social networks of the textile companies will be known.

This study explored the barriers and enablers of collaboration within circular supply chains in the textile industry, focusing on the Malmö and Copenhagen regions. Through a qualitative case study approach, the research analyzed stakeholder engagement, technological integration, sustainable practices, policy support, and economic considerations. Data was collected via semi-structured interviews with key stakeholders, providing insights into the complexities of transitioning to circular economy practices. The findings emphasized the critical role of proactive stakeholder involvement, technological advancements, and supportive policies in fostering collaboration and sustainability. The study contributed to both theoretical understanding and practical applications, offering a robust framework for promoting circular economy initiatives in the textile sector.

Problem: Idag påverkas företagen av tryck utifrån av sina intressenter vilket gör att de måste ta ett större ansvar för att legitimera sig. Olika branscher har varit med om olika skandaler och blivit uppmärksammade på olika sätt. Kan detta leda till att branscher utvecklas olika i sitt ansvarstagande för hållbarhet?Syfte: Syftet med studien är att undersöka om olika branscher i Sveriges näringsliv har utvecklats olika emot ett hållbart samhälle och därmed att beskriva hur långt deras ansvarsområden sträcker sig i årsredovisningar och hållbarhetsredovisningar. Mer specifikt undersöka branschernas ansvar inom ekonomi, miljö och socialt.Forskningsfråga: Vilka skillnader finns det mellan branschernas ansvarstagande inom hållbarhet idag?Forskningsdesign: För att besvara vår forskningsfråga använde vi oss av en kvalitativ innehållsanalys av företagens hållbarhetsrapporter och årsredovisningar. Vi utför en tvärsnittsstudie av tre branscher med tre företag i varje bransch. Branscherna är Textil-, livsmedel- och finansbranschen.Slutsatser: Sammanfattningsvis kan man se att det finns skillnader mellan branscherna. Textilbranschen visade på störst ansvar när man jämförde alla kategorier. Medan livsmedelsbranschen och finansbranschen visade på ett mindre ansvar i förhållande till textilbranschen. När vi sedan ser till varje kategori kan man urskilja var skillnaderna ligger. I den ekonomiska kategorin fanns en stor likhet och inga skillnader kunde identifieras. Inom kategorin för miljö visade textilbranschen ett betydligt större ansvar i förhållande till de övriga branscherna. Kategorin för det sociala ansvaret var betydligt mer omfattande och de olika branscherna utmärkte sig olika mycket i de olika underkategorierna. Inom alla underkategorier visade det sig att Livsmedelsbranschen tog ett mer jämnt ansvar. I anställningsförhållanden och arbetsvillkor utmärkte sig finansbranschen och vidare visade textilbranschen på ett stort ansvar inom mänskliga rättigheter. / Problem: Today’s businesses are affected by the pressure from the outside, by their stakeholders. This allows them to take greater responsibility for legitimacy. Different industries have been involved in various scandals and have received attention different ways. Could this lead to industries developing differently in their social responsibilities for sustainability?Purpose: The purpose of the study is to investigate whether various industries of the Swedish economy has developed differently to a sustainable society and thus to describe how far their responsibilities extend in annual reports and sustainability reports. More specifically investigate various industries responsibilities in regards to economic, environmental and social aspects.Research question: What differences exist between the industries' responsibility in sustainability today?Research Design: To answer our research question, we used a qualitative content analysis of corporate sustainability reports and annual reports. We carry out a cross-sectional study of three industries with three companies in each industry. The industries are textile, food and the finance industry.Conclusions: In summary, one can see that there are differences between industries in the whole. The textile industry showed the greatest responsibility when comparing all the categories. While the food industry and the financial industry showed a minor responsibility in relation to the textile industry. When you look at each category we can distinguish where the differences lie. In the economic category, there was a great similarity and no differences could be identified. Within the category of environment the textile industry showed a much greater responsibility in relation to the other industries. The category of social responsibility was much more extensive and the various industries stood out very different in the different subcategories. In all subcategories, it turned out that the food industry took a more evenly responsibility. In terms of employment and working conditions distinguished the financial industry and the textile industry showed great responsibility in human rights.

Thesis (MA)--Stellenbosch University, 2002. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: As the wave of globalisation sweeps across the countries of the world, the economies of these countries are increasingly opening. The industrial and trade strategy approach is shifting to greater openness due to the pressures of international competitiveness. This means that domestic economic activity alone cannot sustain the national economy. One of the features of this openness is trade liberalisation. Trade between various countries is becoming more important as a way of earning foreign currency to address balance of payment problems and as well as to boost the domestic economy. This has great potential, in the long run, to generate employment opportunities. Immediately after South Africa ushered in a democratic dispensation in 1994 it had to contend with global pressure to liberalise its trade and put in place economic fundamentals that synchronize with the global economic order. The political economy of global trade structure is characterized by bargaining power inequalities amongst the developed countries (North) and the developing countries (South). Trade relations between the developed and developing countries has ~ element of power-play that advantage developed countries and the terms of trade are still skewed in favour of developed countries due to the power that developed countries wield in the global economic system. This study uses the structuralist development theoretical perspective (dependency theory) and the combination of qualitative and quantitative paradigms in understanding the trade relations between the developed countries. The study, through this theoretical paradigm, seeks to examine the degree of success or failure of the Uruguay Round of trade negotiations in particular with regard to tariff reduction commitments, and opportunities or constraints created thereof. A case study oftextile and clothing industry will be used, and this will highlight some of the negative implications of the Uruguay Round commitments. / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Namate die globaliseringsgolf oor die lande van die wereld spoel, word die ekonomiee van die lande meer toeganklik vir ander state. Die industriele en handelsstrategie benadering het, as gevolg van intemasionale mededinging, 'n klemverskuiwing na meer openheid meegebring. Dit het tot gevolg dat huishoudelike ekonomiese aktiwiteit nie alleen 'n ekonomie kan onderhou nie. Een van die kenmerke van hierdie openheid is die liberalisering van handel. Handel tussen state word toenemend belangrik vir die verdien van buitelandse valuta om betalingsbalans probleme aan te spreek, asook om plaaslike ekonomiee te stimuleer. Oor die lang termyn hou dit groot potensiaal in om werksgeleenthede te skep. Onmiddelik na demokratisering in 1994 was Suid-Afrika geforseer om sy handel te liberaliseer en sy ekonomiese grondslag te sinchroniseer met die globale ekonomiese orde, Die struktuur van die politieke ekonomie van intemasionale handel word gekenmerk deur ongelykhede tussen die ontwikkelde Noorde en die ontwikkelende lande van die Suide. Handelsbetrekkinge tussen ontwikkelde- en ontwikkelende lande bevat 'n element van magspel waarin eersgenoemde bevoordeel word. Hierdie studie maak gebruik van die strukturalistiese ontwikkelingsperspektief en 'n kombinasie van kwalitatiewe en kwantitatiewe paradigmas, ten einde 'n beter begrip te verkry van handel tussen ontwikkelde lande. Deur middel van die teoretiese paradigma, probeer die studie om die werkbaarheid van die Uruguay Ronde, spesifiek · met betrekking tot tarief verlagings en die geleenthede of beperkings wat daardeur geskep word, aan te toon. 'n Gevallestudie van die tekstiel en klerebedryf sal gebruik word om die negatiewe implikasies van die Uruguay Ronde te belig.

全球運籌的大趨勢使得紡織業必須轉換為全球佈局的產區導向。在台灣內部環境變遷和全球整體大環境劇烈改變下，紡織業早已將生產據點外移，轉移到生產成本更低的地方，增加企業的競爭力。紡織業也是台灣最早進行全球生產佈局的產業之一。因此，將紡織業設置在全球生產、行銷、研發的據點，與台灣營運總部互相連結，紡織業全球運籌之效率及整體的競爭力才能得以更加提昇。 以績效指標作為企業管理的核心，方能有效追蹤經營管理專案執行的狀況。運用績效指標訂立出企業維持營運的重要資訊數字，亦可事先預測企業表現並即時監督改善。透過績效指標的推動與實施，能夠幫助企業達到績效極大化的目標。因此，當企業規劃全球運籌的營運活動時，「指標」可謂評估上絕對不可或缺的一項重要管理工具。 過去對於台灣紡織業之全球運籌績效指標的研究相當少見，本研究所提出之紡織業全球運籌績效指標參考架構，藉由文獻探討，將供應鏈、紡織業、全球運籌此三個領域特性考量在此架構中，並與經濟部技術處示範性資訊應用開發計畫之八家個案廠商所提出的績效指標結合，所得到之結果再利用德爾菲法與學者專家訪談後分析結果，瞭解學者專家對初步之架構之建議，以強化此初步參考架構的適切與完整性。後以嚴謹的方式建立紡織業供應鏈之系統動力學模型，利用電腦模擬工具Powersim建構聚紡織業供應鏈之系統動態模式，並以情境分析模擬，評估在不同產業情境下，不同關鍵績效指標對於產業供應鏈績效之敏感度，以提供業者作為發展供應鏈績效指標架構之參考。 關鍵字： 紡織業、績效指標、系統動力學、灰色理論、全球運籌 / The trend of global logistic makes companies to change the pattern of supply chain. In Taiwan and the global environment, the companies have to locate elsewhere, to lower production costs, to increase the competitiveness of enterprises. The companies have to link the global production, marketing, research and development base with the headquarter of Taiwan to cooperate. Thus the efficiency of global logistic and the overall competitive can be more upgraded. We proposed a Global logistic performance indicators framework, through literature review in three areas in this framework: supply chain, the textile industry and global logistic. And then we compare the framework with performance indicators of eight cases of the textile industry. And the results have been used Delphi interviews with scholars and experts. After analysis of the Delphi’s results, we use a rigorous approach to build a system dynamics model of Taiwan's textile industry’s supply chain. We use simulation to test the sensitivities of each indicator in the framework to selected key indicators which can meet Taiwan textile industry’s need and rapidly respond to the real situation. Keywords: Global logistic、Performance indicator、System dynamic、Gray statistics、textile industry

A integração de diferentes processos de tratamento na degradação de efluente têxtil foi avaliada utilizando-se a técnica de precipitação, processos oxidativos avançados (POA) e tratamento biológico aeróbio. Os POAs (Ozônio/UV e reagente de Fenton/UV) foram avaliados com experimentos em bateladas de acordo com um planejamento fatorial L18 (Método Tagushi) em função da vazão de ozônio, concentração de reagente Fenton, radiação UV, pH e temperatura. No tratamento microbiológico por processo contínuo, foi utilizado um reator de leito fluidizado com células imobilizadas de zeólitas e avaliados parâmetros como pré-tratamento com POAs, vazão de aeração, taxa de diluição. Concluiu-se que com o pré-tratamento físico-químico obteve-se resultados bastante satisfatórios na redução da DQO e COT, porém gerou uma quantidade desnecessária de lodo. A integração lodo ativado/Reagente Fenton mostrou-se bastante adequada, principalmente na remoção da cor e turbidez; a variedade e freqüência dos microrganismos observados durante o monitoramento biológico foram condizentes com os sistemas de lodo ativado operando eficientemente e o emprego de zeólitas como suporte mostrou-se significativo, alcançando 63,3 % de imobilização do microrganismo no suporte. / The integration of different treatment processes in the degradation of textile wastewater was evaluated using precipitation technique, advanced oxidation processes (AOP) and aerobic biological treatment. AOPs (Ozone/UV and reagent of Fenton/UV) were evaluated in batch experiments according to a factorial planning L18 (Tagushi Method) in function of the flow of ozone, concentration of reagent Fenton, UV radiation, pH and temperature. In the microbiological treatment for continuous process, a reactor of bed fluidized was used with immobilized cells of zeolites some parameters were evaluated such as pre-treatment with AOPs, aeration flow, diluition rate. Satisfactory results were obtained with the physical-chemistry pre-treatment in the reduction of COD and TOC, however it generated an unnecessary amount of sludge. The integration activated sludge/Reagent Fenton was shown quite appropriate, mainly in the removal of the color and turbidity; the variety and frequency of the microorganisms observed during the biological monitorament were suitable with the systems of activated sludge operating efficiently and the use of zeolites as support was shown significant, reaching 63,3 % of immobilization of the microorganism in the support.

Submitted by JOSIANE SANTOS DE OLIVEIRA (josianeso) on 2018-04-11T11:15:15Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Camila Pinheiro Bergenthal_.pdf: 1788975 bytes, checksum: f06c447960db4bfeaa9100261dedbd60 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2018-04-11T11:15:15Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Camila Pinheiro Bergenthal_.pdf: 1788975 bytes, checksum: f06c447960db4bfeaa9100261dedbd60 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2017-12-06 / Nenhuma / A estratégia da globalização, em que pese ter contribuído para o avanço de diversos setores econômicos, acabou por exacerbar a perda de direitos, humanos e trabalhistas, agravando a exclusão social e as marcas de pobreza por todo o globo, sobretudo no segmento têxtil. Flagrantes de trabalhadores submetidos a situações análogas à escravidão, jornada exaustiva, trabalho forçado, condições degradantes, servidão por dívida, utilização de mão de obra infantil, hoje reconhecidos como práticas de escravidão moderna, são recorrentes na indústria da moda, não obstante a existência de esparsa legislação, no âmbito nacional e internacional, contrária a qualquer tipo de escravidão. Nesse sentido, a presente dissertação aborda as respostas não estatais de combate à precarização do trabalho na indústria têxtil: o papel dos direitos humanos e da autorregulação. A pesquisa justifica-se em face da ineficiência dos Estados-Nações na proteção de garantias fundamentais dos trabalhadores que atuam no segmento têxtil. Logo, é mais do que nunca atual e merece destaque diante dos reiterados casos de precarização do trabalho. Lança-se uma proposta sistemática alicerçada no método dialético. / Although the globalization strategy has contributed for the advance of several economic sectors, it has ended up contributing to the loss of human and labour rights, and to the aggravation of social exclusions and signs of poverty around the globe, specially in the textile sector. Despite the existence of broad legislation in the national and international scope, contrary to any type of slavery, flagrant of workers under situations analog to slavery, international human traffic, sexual exploitation of women and use of child labour, practices nowadays recognized as modern slavery, are recurrent in the fashion industry. In this sense, the present paper addresses non-state responses to the precariousness of work in the textile industry: the role of human rights and self-regulation. The research is justified in the face of the inefficiency of the Nation States in the protection of fundamental guarantees of the workers who work in the textile segment. Therefore, it is more than ever current and deserves attention in the face of repeated cases of precarious work. A systematic proposal based on the dialectical method is launched.

The textile industry in Kenya was once an important sector in the country but due to theliberalisation of trade and the second hand industry’s impact, the industry has declined inrecent years. The increased competition from import has boosted the costs of raw material andoutrivaled the local textile production. Further, the government’s lack of investments in thecountry’s electric power supply has also contributed to the current situation. Consequently,the domestic textile entrepreneurs are today facing a complex and competitive marketplacebut despite these obstacles there are women that have managed to overcome the entrancebarriers.It is an unfavourable climate for being a woman entrepreneur in Kenya since the socioculturalnorms restrain women to work outside their homes and in some business sectors. Though, ourfindings have shown that the Kenyan women have the handicraft skills but lack access tofinancial resources as well as management skills to start-up businesses in the textile industry.Access to credit is regarded as one of the main obstacles to establish a firm. There are lendinginstitutes but the interest rate is high and the collateral requirements hard to fulfil. Moreover,there are micro-loan institutes but the loans are not sufficient to companies with growthpotential.The purpose of this study was to map-out key success factors for becoming a womanentrepreneur in the competitive textile marketplace in Nairobi, Kenya. We aimed tounderstand how some entrepreneurs have managed to overcome the obstacles women face intheir social- and cultural context and how mapping of their shared supportive variables canencourage other females to become entrepreneurial.Our results find that there is not one way to handle difficulties along the dynamic andcompetitive textile market in Kenya. The respondents come from different social- and culturalcontexts that in diverse ways have influenced their management ways. We have though beenable to map out shared factors that have been supportive when overcoming obstacles in theprocess of a business start-up; being a visionary and opportunity seeker, counterbalancemissing knowledge, effective use of limited resources, fighter instinct, find a niche in themarketplace, networking skill and manage employees and unsupportive surroundings.Textilindustrin i Kenya var en gång en betydelsefull sektor för landet men under de senareåren har dess relevans minskat på grund av ett ökande inflytande från frihandeln samt enväxande försäljning av andrahandskläder. Konkurrensen från import har lett till högreråvarukostnader som succesivt spelat ut den lokala textilproduktionen. Vidare har regeringenvarit sparsam med att investera i landets elförsörjning vilket också har bidragit till denrådande situationen. Följaktligen står den inhemska textilindustrins företagare idag inför enkomplex och konkurrensutsatt marknad, men trots många hinder finns det kvinnor som harlyckats övervinna inträdesbarriärerna.För kvinnliga entreprenörer i Kenya är företagsklimatet ogynnsamt då det föreliggersociokulturella normer vilka begränsar kvinnor att arbeta utanför hemmet och även inom vissabranscher. Vår studies resultat har visat att kenyanska kvinnor besitter ett hantverkskunnande,men saknar tillgång till finansiella resurser samt färdigheter för att starta och leda ett företag itextilindustrin. Tillgängligheten till ekonomiska medel har betraktas som ett av de störstahindren för att upprätta en verksamhet. Det finns utlåningsinstitut, men där är räntan hög ochkraven på kreditsäkerhet svåra att uppfylla. Det finns dessutom mikrolånsinstanser men lånensom ges där är inte tillräckliga för företag med tillväxtpotential.Intentionen med denna studie var att kartlägga viktiga framgångsfaktorer för att bli enkvinnlig företagare på den konkurrensutsatta textila marknaden i Nairobi, Kenya. Vårt syftevar att förstå hur vissa entreprenörer lyckats övervinna hinder som kvinnor möter i sinsociala- och kulturella kontext samt kartlägga gemensamma stödjande variabler som i sin turkan inspirera andra kvinnor till att bli företagare.Vårt resultat belyser att det finns flera sätt att hantera svårigheter på den dynamiska ochkonkurrensutsatta textila marknaden i Kenya. Respondenterna i denna rapport kommer frånolika sociala- och kulturella kontexter vilket på olika sätt har påverkat deras sätt att hanteraföretag. Vi har dock kunnat kartlägga gemensamma faktorer som har hjälpt att övervinnahindren i processen med att starta företag; vara en visionär och en möjlighetssökare, hanteraavsaknad av kunskap, effektivt använda begränsade resurser, ha en kämparinstinkt, hitta ennisch på marknaden, vara skicklig på att använda sitt nätverk och att hantera sina medarbetaresamt en icke stödjande omgivning. / Program: Textilekonomutbildningen

Situé en plein cœur de Paris, le Sentier reconnu depuis la seconde moitié du XXe siècle comme le centre le plus actif du commerce international des tissus, s’est construit dans la continuité d’un ‘’Sentier ancien ‘’ qui trouve ses origines dans la première moitié du XIXe siècle. En nous appuyant sur les Almanachs du Commerce de Paris pour reconstruire l’infrastructure économique de cet espace, nous avons pu mettre en évidence les caractéristiques de cet ensemble originaire et plus particulièrement la croissante centralité du quartier Montmartre dans le commerce des tissus. Placé à la lisière des grands boulevards et des lieux de la « nouvelle modernité » parisienne, ce quartier était le véritable noyau central du commerce des tissus en gros, animé par un négoce important et solidement implanté dans les rues du Sentier, Saint-Fiacre et des Jeûneurs. Il s’agit prioritairement, au début du siècle, du commerce des articles de toiles de coton et des châles, rejoints à partir des années 1830, par la vente de dentelles, de tissus mérinos et de tissus de nouveautés.Dans notre recherche pour saisir l’ensemble des éléments à l’œuvre dans la construction identitaire de cet espace original, l’exploitation de diverses sources, telles que les sources cadastrales, la composition des listes électorales ou les archives notariales, nous ont permis de restituer une image précise de ces dynamiques, de dégager l’importance de cette sphère professionnelle et ses multiples conséquences sur l’espace physique et social de ce quartier. / Located in the very heart of Paris, the SENTIER which prevails in the second half of the 19th century as the most active center of the business of international trade of fabrics, built itself in the continuity of a " former SENTIER " which has its origins in the first half of the 19th century. Relying on the Almanachs of the Trade of Paris to reconstruct the economic infrastructure of this space, we were able to highlight the characteristics of this first socio-economic group and the increasing centrality of the Montmartre neighborhood in the trade of fabrics. Located at the edge of the places of the "new Parisian modernity ", this district became the central point of the wholesale fabrics trade, led by an important trade firmly established in the streets of the Sentier, Saint Fiacre and Jeuneurs. It mainly concerns, at the beginning of the century, the trade of articles of cotton cloths and shawls, joined from 1830s, by the sale of laces, merino fabrics and fashionable fabrics. In our search to seize all the elements in action in the identity construction of this original space, the exploitation of diverse sources, such as the cadastral sources, the composition of electoral rolls or the notarial archives, allowed us to restore a precise image of these dynamics to express the importance of this professional sphere and its multiple consequences on the physical and social space of this district.

University of Macau / Faculty of Social Sciences and Humanities / Department of History