This thesis is a study that investigates how the communication in the developing process of a garment can be developed between a distributor and a supplier. The purpose is to investigate how large part of the quality assured and processed sketches can help improve the communicational issues and minimize the number of samples that are being transported between the buyer and the factory causing delays due to large distances. The study has been carried out in collaboration with a company that has been job initiator for the subject of the thesis. The main area in the method are based on a quality improving process to discover what a supplier as well as a distributor consider to be a distinct sketch. By using a survey as a data collection method, an evaluation of the fashion company`s sketches have been exercised. To reassure the quality of the sketches within the company and to investigate whether this can cause minor misunderstandings within the production department. In this study outlines of the inside of a blazer have been the focus as the company recently has experienced issues with these parts in the production of prototypes. The result is based on a comparison between two blazer prototypes that the factory has sent to the company as a first suggestion to manufacture the blazer. The conclusion highlights and evaluates the level of importance of the quality assured sketches versus the non-assured ones, and whether these are essential for the company`s desired quality and standard of the item or not. Thus, the conclusion also covers a discussion around how to fulfill the desired quality and standards of a blazer for the fashion company in question.

Designing with non-visual attributes challenges ways of representation. This research explores methods for designing with invisible materiality within the research practice, as well as ways of representation through textiles when designing spaces. Exploring textiles and smells within a space, the research program investigates spatial interactions. This research focuses on designing embodied experiences using tangible materials as expressions of smells. Through the spatial installations and performances Sight of smell, Touch of smell, and Smell, space, and body movement, haptics were explored as one of the methods of interaction with smells through textiles. Through the sense of touch, this research also investigates ways of revealing, activating, and disseminating smells within a space. Smells were purposely added through the methods of dyeing, coating, and printing to the textile materials that did not inherently embody any smells, As a result, tactile surfaces create non-visual expressions of smell. Further ideas of research in this area would explore another perspective of designing with smells in spaces. As an example, by designing textiles being smell absorbers, dividers, and re ectors, could compliment the spatial concepts and deals with the already existing smells in a living environment. In this licentiate thesis thinking through the olfactive dimension to design textiles is not only novel for the textile design eld; but also, its proposal for application in the spatial design is quite unique, and o ers a new dimension for spatial design. / Horizon 2020 MSCA ITN

Volvo Car Corporation (Volvo Cars) develops powertrain mounting systems that uses components made up largely of filled rubber materials. The development of such components is today relying on external suppliers to design components based on requirements set by Volvo. To reduce costs and lead-time in the development process the possibility of in-house design of such components at Volvo Cars is being investigated. For this to be possible, knowledge must be built concerning modelling the mechanical properties of rubber materials. As part of this a parameter extraction method for modelling of filled rubber materials intended for finite element use has been developed in this project. Both a simple static model fitting procedure and a more complex dynamic model fitting procedure are detailed. Mechanical testing of four filled natural rubber materials with varying hardnesswas carried out at the facilities of Volvo Cars and recommendations have been made regarding the limits of the equipment and the specific test body geometry used. It was found that the lower limit for dynamic testing in regards to displacement amplitude is 0.02 mm. The highest frequency recommended is dependent on the material hardness but a higher limit of 200 Hz is recommended for the softest material investigated. The upper limit was found to be necessary due to inertia effects in the material. The models used to describe the static behaviour were hyperelastic phenomenological models independent on the second invariant such as the Yeoh and the linear neo-Hookean models. The dynamic model used the overlay method to capture therate and amplitude dependent properties of filled rubber. A generalized viscoelastic-elastoplastic rheological model using Maxwell and friction elements in parallel with alinear elastic element was presented and used. These were limited to having maximumfive of each element and no attempts at minimizing this number was made in this work.The dynamic model was fitted to experimental data using a minimization procedure focusing on dynamic modulus and damping at a range of frequencies and strain amplitudes.The proposed fitting procedure is a three segment loop in which FE simulationsof the experimental data is used as both a correction and a validation tool.Model validation showed good correlation of the fitted model to measured databefore correction was attempted. The correction step did not improve the model qualityand the reason for this was identified as poor post-processing. The proposed method together with lessons learned during the course of the project will be of importance for the future in-house development of rubber components at Volvo Cars.

Vagabond Shoemakers is one of Europe’s leading design companies within the footwear industry. In the summer of 2019, the project group contacted the company to investigate the possibility to execute an innovation- and development project together. The project would turn into so much more, it would become the beginning of a sustainability work which would lead into a modular shoe for a sustainable future. The sustainability issues within the footwear industry are today bigger than the choice of sustainable materials. There is no good way of recycling or reusing shoes since there is no effective way of separating glue, textiles and rubber form each other. It was from this problem that the foundation of the project was created, is there a possibility to construct a modular shoe? A shoe from the constructions design to facilitate recycling and reuse, through the ability to efficiently separate the parts from each other. Together with Vagabond Shoemakers we would create the foundation of the future footwear industry. A product that would be called Klick-Skon based on the projects Klick-Concept. A product designed to meet the sustainability issues; the result came to be a modular shoe for a sustainable future.

In this project, an additive manufacturing technique called Direct Ink Writing has been used to 3D print structures from polymer solutions containing cellulose acetate. Cellulose acetate is a synthetic compound derived from plants. The intended application involves protein separation filters for medical purposes. The printing has been performed in a lab environment with focus on high resolution, with less than 10 micrometers in fibre size. Glass capillaries with an inner diameter of 3-10 micrometers were used as nozzles. Three-dimensional structures with a height of 100 micrometers and a fibre thickness of 2 micrometers were made. The results indicates that cellulose acetate is a promising polymer for Direct Ink Writing in high resolution. Improvements are needed in the ink design and/or the technical construction of the printer to avoid clogging of the nozzle.

Idag är den största delen av textilierna antingen olje-(60 %) eller bomullsbaserade (30 %). Det är enbart en liten del som är baserade på träfibrer. Ett ökande behov av förnyelsebara textilier föreligger. Samtidigt är ett minskade pappersbehov en drivkraft till att använda de existerande pappersmaskinerna till att tillverka icke vävda textilliknande material. Till skillnad från vävda material kan materialet tillverkas direkt istället för att först tillverka trådar från fibrer. Möjligheter att ta fram textillika material av cellulosafibrer undersöktes. Dynamiska ark gjorda av en blandning av barrmassa och en blandning av barr- och lövmassa med 0, 55 och 70 vikt% polymjölksyra, PLA, tillverkades. Arken pressades ihop två och två med ett mellanlager av Expancel mikrosfärer och bindemedel. Mowilith DM 105 och Primal LT-2949 Emulsion användes som bindemedel. En jämförelse gjordes med ark med enbart bindemedel som mellanlager.   En subjektiv utvärdering av vilket förhållande mellan Expancel mikrosfärer och bindemedel som var bäst lämpad gjordes. För utvärderingen ytbehandlades ett standard papper med 70 vikt% PLA. Den sats med högst koncentration av Expancel mikrosfärer som band bra till bindemedelet valdes. Draghållfastheten testades genom dragprovning enligt ISO 1924-2:1994 men med endast 5 prover istället för 10.  Dragprovningen visade att tillsatsen av Expancel mikrosfärer ökade töjningen hos materialet. Materialen med högst koncentration av PLA gav den mjukaste känslan men också lägst styrka. / Today the main parts of textiles are either oil (60 %) or cotton based (30 %). It is only a small portion which is based on wood fibres. An increasing demand of renewable textiles is forthcoming. At the same time a decreasing demand of paper is one of the motivation of using the existing paper machines to produce nonwoven textile-like materials. Unlike woven fabrics the fabric can be manufactured directly rather than first producing yarn from fibres. Possibilities of developing a textile-like material of cellulose fibres were investigated. Dynamic lab sheets made of a mix of softwood pulp and a mix of softwood and birch pulp with 0, 55 and 70 weight % Poly(lactic acid), PLA, were manufactured. The sheets was pressed together two and two with a middle layer of Expancel microspheres and binder. Mowilith DM 105 and Primal LT-2949 emulsion were used as binders. A comparison was made between sheets with only binder as the middle layer.   A subjective evaluation of which ratio between Expancel microspheres and binder material was best suited was made. For the evaluation a paper containing 70 weight% PLA was coated. The batch with highest concentration of Expancel microspheres, which bonded well to the binder, was chosen. The tensile strength was measured according to ISO 1924-2:1994 but with only 5 test samples instead of 10. The tensile tests showed that with Expancel microspheres resulted in increase of elongation of the material. The materials with the highest concentration of PLA had softest feeling but also lowest strength.

The main intention of this thesis work was to investigate the effect of strain rate on continuum and pre-cracked polymer failure. Low-Density Polyethylene (LDPE) was chosen to study experimentally and numerically. In order to cover wide range of strain rates, four specific strain rates were selected for the uniaxial tensile tests. To perform the tests, cyclic loading and unloading with relaxation was utilized in the room temperature for continuum specimen and for pre-cracked specimen monotonic tensile test till failure was utilized. Through Digital Image Correlation (DIC) the local strain distribution was assessed through the specimen and the deformation was compared with simulation results. Based on the extensive literature review of material models from PolyUMod library among Viscoplastic models, the Three Network Viscoplastic (TNV) model was selected to proceed with the calibration. The motivation behind choosing TNV model is it's capability of capturing load-unload curves, different strain rates as well as non-linear responses. Furthermore, it was seen that among Viscoplastic models, TNV has the lowest average errors which plays a vital role in this case as the accuracy of FE simulation directly depends on the calibration results. From the experimental results it was safe to say that with increasing strain rates LDPE films tend to get stiffer and stronger both in continuum and pre-cracked. Through the calibration it was seen that the predicted curves were in reasonable agreement with experimental ones. Hence,the calibrated model was exported as python script into Abaqus CAE to perform the simulations. The comparison was done and discussed in details between the simulation and experimental data in three orientations; MD (Machine Direction), CD (Cross Direction) and 45 direction.

No description available.

In this thesis, the development of a new type of seal is presented along with the steps taken to attain the conclusive design. The results are presented in this paper as a cross-sectioned CAD-model along with the selection of materials and suggestions for future work. The project was commissioned by the multi-discipline engineering consultancy company Projektengagemang AB in Karlstad, Sweden, and carried out as a master’s thesis at Karlstad University. The commission was due to a demand for a new type of sealing solution, as friction is a problem within the field of micro-pneumatics. The work done consists of a study of different low-friction materials where a 30/70 PTFE/PEEK compound was selected as it displayed promising friction and wear properties. The material was then implemented into a design concluded by employing a product development process. The result rendered a prototype for a new kind of low-friction seal which uses the fluid pressure to achieve a sealing contact load between a piston/rod and the seal, which also was the goal set to achieve at the start of the project. Additionally, a design of experiments study was conducted to settle what design parameters were significant with respect to the contact load. For proceeding, making the concept a product ready for production, additional work is needed in the form of experimental material testing, development of a leakage model to optimize the contact load, determination of temperature and creep behaviour, as well as sufficient field testing. Lastly, a die tool must be designed for manufacturing with injection moulding as well as determining if any further processing is required. / Detta arbete behandlar utvecklingen av en ny sorts tätning samt arbetet som utförts för att nå en slutlig design. Resultaten presenteras i form av en CAD-modell tillsammans med materialval och förslag till fortsatta studier. Projektet utfördes efter förfrågan av konsultconcernen Projektengagemang AB i Karlstad, Sverige och utfördes som ett examensarbete för civilingenjörsexamen i maskinteknik vid Karlstads universitet. Detta gjordes eftersom det finns en efterfrågan på lågfriktionstätningar inom mikropneumatik där friktion är ett rådande problem. Arbetet består av en studie över att antal lågfriktionsmaterial där en komposit med 30/70 PTFE/PEEK valdes på grund av dess lovande nötnings- och friktionsegenskaper. Materialet implementerades sedan i design som togs fram genom en produktutvecklingsprocess. Resultatet är en prototyp för en ny sorts lågfriktionstätning som utnyttjar fluidtryck för att uppnå en tätande effekt mellan tätning och kolv vilket även var målsättningen för projektet. Flerfaktorförsök har under processen utnyttjats för att hitta vilka geometriska parametrar som påverkar kontaktkraften mellan tätning och motliggande yta. För att ta konceptet till en färdig produkt krävs fortsatt arbete innehållande experimentella materialtester, framtagning av en läckagemodell att optimera kontaktkraften mot, studier kring temperatur- och krypberoende samt fälttester för att verifiera funktionen över tid. Slutligen behöver ett verktyg för formsprutning tas fram tillsammans med eventuell ytterligare bearbetning för slutlig tillverkning av produkten.

There is an increased awareness of the textile dyeing and finishing sector’s high impact on the environment due to high water consumption, polluted wastewater, and inefficient use of energy. To reduce environmental impacts, researchers propose the use of dyes from natural sources. The purpose of using these is to impart new attributes to textiles without compromising on environmental sustainability. The attributes given to the textile can be color and/or other characteristics. A drawback however, is that the use of bio-sourced dyes is not free from environmental concerns. Thus, it becomes paramount to assess the environmental impacts from using them and improve the environmental profile, but studies on this topic are generally absent. The research presented in this thesis has included environmental impact assessment, using the life cycle assessment (LCA) tool, in the design process of a multifunctional polyester (PET) fabric using natural anthraquinones. By doing so an eco-design approach has been applied, with the intention to pave the way towards eco-sustainable bio-functionalization of textiles. The anthraquinones were obtained from the root extracts of the madder plant (Rubia tinctorum L.), referred to as madder dye. The research questions were therefore formulated related to the use of madder dye. Three research questions have been answered: (I) Can madder dye serve as a multifunctional species onto a PET woven fabric? (II) How does the environmental profile of the dyeing process of PET with madder dye look like, and how can it be improved? (III) What are the main challenges in using LCA to assess the environmental impacts of textile dyeing with plant-based dyes? It is concluded that there is a potential for the madder dye to serve as a multifunctional species onto PET. Based on the encouraging result, a recommendation for future work would be to focus on the durability of the functionalities presented and their improvement potential, both in exhaustion dyeing and pad-dyeing. LCA driven process optimization of the exhaustion dyeing enabled improvement in every impact category studied. However, several challenges have been identified which need to be overcome for the LCA to contribute to the sustainable use of multifunctional plant-based species in textile dyeing. The main challenges are the lack of available data at the research stage and the interdisciplinary nature of the research arena. It is envisaged that if these challenges are addressed, LCA can contribute towards sustainable bio-functionalization of textiles. / Le secteur de la teinture et de l’ennoblissement textile est de plus en plus conscient de son impact sur l’environnement dû principalement à la consommation élevée de l’eau et à sa pollution, et aux pertes d’énergie. Pour réduire ces impacts, les chercheurs proposent l’utilisation de molécules issues de ressources naturelles, pour traiter les textiles en limitant les impacts sur l’environnement. C’est le cas pour l’obtention de textiles colorés ou pour l’attribution de toute autre fonctionnalité. Cependant, il n’est pas évident que ces molécules bio-sourcées n’aient aucun impact sur l’environnement. On comprend l’importance d’évaluer les impacts de leur utilisation et d’améliorer leur profil environnemental. Or ce type d’étude est peu présent dans la littérature. La recherche présentée dans cette thèse comporte l’évaluation des impacts environnementaux en utilisant l’outil d’analyse du cycle de vie (ACV) pour la conception du traitement d’un tissu de polyester (PET) multifonctionnel avec des anthraquinones naturelles. La méthodologie d’éco conception que nous avons appliquée ouvre la voie à une bio-fonctionnalisation des textiles plus respectueuse de l’environnement. Les anthraquinones ont été obtenues par extraction des racines de plantes de garance et constituent le colorant appelé garance. Les trois questions principales abordées lors de ce travail de recherche sont formulées autour de l’utilisation de la garance : (I) Peut-on traiter les tissus de PET avec de la garance pour obtenir des propriétés multifonctionnelles ? (II) Quel est le profil environnemental du procédé de teinture du PET par la garance et comment l’améliorer ? (III) Quels sont les principaux challenges pour l’utilisation de l’ACV dans l’évaluation environnementale du traitement des textiles par des colorants naturels? Nous avons montré que la garance peut être utilisée pour conférer des propriétés multifonctionnelles au PET. Ensuite, nous avons pu orienter notre étude pour améliorer la durabilité des traitements par les procédés de fonctionnalisation à la fois par épuisement ou par foulardage. En s’appuyant sur l’ACV, l’optimisation de la teinture que nous avons réalisée réduit tous les impacts sur l’environnement. Cette étude nous permet d’identifier les challenges qui doivent être surmontés pour que l’ACV puisse contribuer à l’utilisation de bio-molécules pour la teinture des textiles dans le respect des principes de développement durable. Ils concernent le manque de données pour ces travaux de recherche et leur nature interdisciplinaire. Ainsi, en résolvant ces questions, on peut envisager aboutir à une bio- fonctionnalisation des textiles respectueuse de l’environnement. / Den höga miljöpåverkan från textilfärgning och efterbehandling, på grund av hög vattenförbrukning, dess förorening, och ineffektiv användning av energi, är idag välkänt. För att minska miljöpåverkan föreslår forskningsvärlden användning av färgämnen från naturliga resurser. Syftet med att använda dessa är att ge nya attribut till textilier utan att göra avkall på miljömässig hållbarhet. Attribut som ges kan vara färg och/eller andra egenskaper. En nackdel är dock att användningen av bio-baserade färgämnen är inte fri från att belasta miljön. Det blir därför av största betydelse att bedöma denna miljöpåverkan och förbättra miljöprofilen. Sådana studier är dock i allmänhet sällsynta. Studien som presenteras i denna avhandling har inkluderat miljöpåverkans- bedömning, med hjälp av livscykelanalys (LCA), i designprocessen av en multifunktionell polyester (PET) väv via naturliga antrakinoner. Genom att göra så har ett eko-design tillvägagångssätt använts, med avsikt att bana väg för miljömässigt hållbar bio-funktionalisering av textil. Antrakinonerna erhölls från rot extrakt av växten krapp (Rubia tinctorum L.), och hänvisas till som krapp färgämne. Frågeställningar var därför formulerade relaterat till användningen av krapp färgämne. Tre forskningsfrågor har besvarats: (I) Kan krapp färgämne verka multifunktionellt på en PET väv? (II) Hur ser miljöprofilen ut, från färgningsprocessen av PET med krapp färgämne, och hur kan den förbättras? (III) Vilka är de största utmaningarna med att använda LCA för att bedöma miljökonsekvenserna av textilfärgning med växtbaserade färgämnen? Det kan konkluderas att det finns potential för krapp färgämne att verka multifunktionellt på PET. Baserat på uppmuntrande resultat är en rekommendation för det framtida arbetet att fokusera på kvalitén hos de attribut som presenterats och deras förbättringspotential, både i färgning via färgbad och via foulard. LCA driven processoptimering av textilfärgningen förbättrade i varje miljöpåverkans- kategori som studerats. Emellertid har flera utmaningar identifierats som måste  övervinnas för att LCA skall kunna bidra till en hållbar användning av multifunktionella växtbaserade färgämnen för textil. De största utmaningarna är bristen på tillgängliga data i forskningsstadiet och den tvärvetenskapliga forskningsarenan. Det är tänkt att om dessa utmaningar bemästras kan LCA bidra till en hållbar bio-funktionalisering av textil. / <p>Disputationen kan följas via länk i sal U401b, Textilhögskolan, Högskolan i Borås</p> / Erasmus Mundus Joint Doctorate program: Sustainable Management and Design for Textiles