A sustentabilidade do planeta é responsabilidade coletiva e ações para melhorar o ambiente global são necessárias e implicam na adoção de práticas de produção e consumo sustentáveis. O desenvolvimento da Indústria Têxtil e Confecção incorpora tecnologias nos campos das ciências físicas, químicas e biológicas necessárias às atividades do setor, desde a obtenção da matéria-prima, produção de fios e tecidos e, seus respectivos acabamentos, consumindo grandes quantidades de recursos e energia. O Desenvolvimento Sustentável ao expandir o foco econômico para as dimensões ambiental e social dos processos de produção e serviços originou uma visão sistêmica dos inputs e outputs do processo produtivo e suas consequências ambientais, estruturando o conceito de ciclo de vida do produto (ACV). O objetivo desse estudo é avaliar o ciclo de vida de uma calça feminina confeccionada em malha de poliamida, utilizada como uniforme do ensino médio estadual no Paraná, do berço ao túmulo, com 3 possibilidades de descarte. Foi realizado um estudo de caso para verificar a viabilidade de aplicação da ferramenta ACV para avaliação do impacto ambiental do produto final por meio do software LCA SimaPro8.1.16Faculty. A coleta de dados foi realizada por meio de questionário, baseado nas diretrizes da NBR ISO 14040 que determinam as fases e procedimentos gerais da execução de um estudo de ACV, para identificar a estrutura produtiva da empresa de confecção permitindo o levantamento quantitativo de dados referentes ao processo produtivo, a identificação das entradas e saídas de materiais e energia elétrica e, a quantificação dos resíduos gerados. Algumas informações foram retiradas do banco de dados de inventários de processos disponíveis no software utilizado para este estudo. A avaliação do ciclo de vida da calça de poliamida foi baseada no Manual do Sistema Internacional de Referência de Dados sobre o ciclo de vida de produtos e processos (ILCD). A tabulação dos dados do produto foi realizada no software SimaPro8.1.16Faculty. A base de dados de inventário selecionada foi a Ecoinvent v.2 e, para realização da análise de impacto foi adotado o método de impacto gerado Eco-indicator 99. O software LCA SimaPro 8.1.16 Faculty mostrou-se ferramenta eficiente para a realização da avaliação do ciclo de vida da calça de poliamida com os três cenários de descarte, permitindo a análise dos impactos ao nível da categoria de danos para a saúde humana, qualidade do ecossistema e recursos e, possibilitando a análise da carga ambiental por categoria de impacto, de acordo com o que propõe a ISO 14042 sobre os elementos de seleção de definição de categorias para a fase de Avaliação / The sustainability of the planet is collective responsibility and actions to improve the global environment are necessary and imply the adoption of sustainable production and consumption practices. Development of Textile and Confection incorporates technologies in the fields of physical, chemical and biological sciences necessary to the sector\'s activities, from obtaining the raw material, production of yarn and fabric and their finishes, consuming large amounts of resources and energy . Sustainable Development to expand economic focus to environmental and social dimensions of production processes and services led to a systemic view of the inputs and outputs of the production process and its environmental consequences, structuring the concept of product life cycle (LCA). The aim of this study is to evaluate the life cycle of a woman\'s pants made of polyamide fabric, used as a uniform average state school in Parana, from cradle to grave, with 3 possibilities for disposal. A case study was performed to verify the application feasibility of LCA tool for assessing the environmental impact of the final product through ACL SimaPro 8.1.16 Faculty software. Data collection was conducted through a questionnaire, based on the guidelines of ISO 14040 which determine the general phases and procedures of the execution of an LCA study, to identify the productive structure of the clothing firm allowing the quantitative survey data for the production process, the identification of the inputs and outputs of materials and energy, and the quantification of waste generated. Some information was taken from the inventory database processes available in the software used for this study. The evaluation of the polyamide trousers life cycle was based on the International System Manual Data Reference on the lifecycle of products and processes (ILCD). Tabulation of the product data was performed in SimaPro8.1.16Faculty software. The selected inventory database was Ecoinvent v.2 and to perform impact analysis was adopted impact generated method Eco-indicator 99. The LCA SimaPro 8.1.16 Faculty software was efficient tool for the realization of assessment of the life cycle of the polyamide pants with three disposal scenarios, allowing the analysis of impacts on the category of damage to human health, ecosystem quality and resources, enabling the analysis of environmental load by impact category, according to which it proposed to ISO 14042 on the selection of elements to define categories for the phase evaluation

A sustentabilidade do planeta é responsabilidade coletiva e ações para melhorar o ambiente global são necessárias e implicam na adoção de práticas de produção e consumo sustentáveis. O desenvolvimento da Indústria Têxtil e Confecção incorpora tecnologias nos campos das ciências físicas, químicas e biológicas necessárias às atividades do setor, desde a obtenção da matéria-prima, produção de fios e tecidos e, seus respectivos acabamentos, consumindo grandes quantidades de recursos e energia. O Desenvolvimento Sustentável ao expandir o foco econômico para as dimensões ambiental e social dos processos de produção e serviços originou uma visão sistêmica dos inputs e outputs do processo produtivo e suas consequências ambientais, estruturando o conceito de ciclo de vida do produto (ACV). O objetivo desse estudo é avaliar o ciclo de vida de uma calça feminina confeccionada em malha de poliamida, utilizada como uniforme do ensino médio estadual no Paraná, do berço ao túmulo, com 3 possibilidades de descarte. Foi realizado um estudo de caso para verificar a viabilidade de aplicação da ferramenta ACV para avaliação do impacto ambiental do produto final por meio do software LCA SimaPro8.1.16Faculty. A coleta de dados foi realizada por meio de questionário, baseado nas diretrizes da NBR ISO 14040 que determinam as fases e procedimentos gerais da execução de um estudo de ACV, para identificar a estrutura produtiva da empresa de confecção permitindo o levantamento quantitativo de dados referentes ao processo produtivo, a identificação das entradas e saídas de materiais e energia elétrica e, a quantificação dos resíduos gerados. Algumas informações foram retiradas do banco de dados de inventários de processos disponíveis no software utilizado para este estudo. A avaliação do ciclo de vida da calça de poliamida foi baseada no Manual do Sistema Internacional de Referência de Dados sobre o ciclo de vida de produtos e processos (ILCD). A tabulação dos dados do produto foi realizada no software SimaPro8.1.16Faculty. A base de dados de inventário selecionada foi a Ecoinvent v.2 e, para realização da análise de impacto foi adotado o método de impacto gerado Eco-indicator 99. O software LCA SimaPro 8.1.16 Faculty mostrou-se ferramenta eficiente para a realização da avaliação do ciclo de vida da calça de poliamida com os três cenários de descarte, permitindo a análise dos impactos ao nível da categoria de danos para a saúde humana, qualidade do ecossistema e recursos e, possibilitando a análise da carga ambiental por categoria de impacto, de acordo com o que propõe a ISO 14042 sobre os elementos de seleção de definição de categorias para a fase de Avaliação / The sustainability of the planet is collective responsibility and actions to improve the global environment are necessary and imply the adoption of sustainable production and consumption practices. Development of Textile and Confection incorporates technologies in the fields of physical, chemical and biological sciences necessary to the sector\'s activities, from obtaining the raw material, production of yarn and fabric and their finishes, consuming large amounts of resources and energy . Sustainable Development to expand economic focus to environmental and social dimensions of production processes and services led to a systemic view of the inputs and outputs of the production process and its environmental consequences, structuring the concept of product life cycle (LCA). The aim of this study is to evaluate the life cycle of a woman\'s pants made of polyamide fabric, used as a uniform average state school in Parana, from cradle to grave, with 3 possibilities for disposal. A case study was performed to verify the application feasibility of LCA tool for assessing the environmental impact of the final product through ACL SimaPro 8.1.16 Faculty software. Data collection was conducted through a questionnaire, based on the guidelines of ISO 14040 which determine the general phases and procedures of the execution of an LCA study, to identify the productive structure of the clothing firm allowing the quantitative survey data for the production process, the identification of the inputs and outputs of materials and energy, and the quantification of waste generated. Some information was taken from the inventory database processes available in the software used for this study. The evaluation of the polyamide trousers life cycle was based on the International System Manual Data Reference on the lifecycle of products and processes (ILCD). Tabulation of the product data was performed in SimaPro8.1.16Faculty software. The selected inventory database was Ecoinvent v.2 and to perform impact analysis was adopted impact generated method Eco-indicator 99. The LCA SimaPro 8.1.16 Faculty software was efficient tool for the realization of assessment of the life cycle of the polyamide pants with three disposal scenarios, allowing the analysis of impacts on the category of damage to human health, ecosystem quality and resources, enabling the analysis of environmental load by impact category, according to which it proposed to ISO 14042 on the selection of elements to define categories for the phase evaluation

L’organisation du transport international et la gestion de la supply chain deviennent essentielles pour les entreprises multinationales quand la production se délocalise. Etant une filière dont la production se mondialise très tôt, la filière du textile-habillement illustre bien le processus de la mondialisation. Cette thèse étudie la question du transport dans la filière du textile-habillement à partir de la sous-traitance de production en Chine, actuellement le site de production de vêtements le plus important du monde. Par les entretiens avec des entreprises du textile-habillement et des organisateurs de transport en Chine, à Hong Kong et à Taiwan, nous décrivons d’abord la répartition des responsabilités de transport entre producteurs, intermédiaires et distributeurs. Ensuite nous analysons comment les acteurs s’adaptent à la contrainte du transport en organisant leur production et comment la façon dont ils externalisent leurs activités de transport affecte le marché des organisateurs de transport international. Avec les entreprises hongkongaises et taiwanaises, les acheteurs occidentaux peuvent se décharger de la coordination des activités de production en Chine. Une chaîne industrielle intégrée de l’amont à l’aval dans les agglomérations industrielles chinoises permet de réduire le temps de transport des tissus et d’autres produits intermédiaires. La vente FOB des produits d’habillement chinois laisse toute latitude d’organiser le transport international des produits finaux aux distributeurs. Le marché des produits d’habillement dans la plupart des pays industrialisés se concentre de plus en plus entre les mains des grands distributeurs. Ceux-ci sous-traitent l’organisation de transport aux organisateurs de transport à l’échelle multinationale capables d’organiser le transport international dans plusieurs pays. La domination des distributeurs dans la filière a créé un environnement favorable au développement des organisateurs de transport multinational. Cette thèse montre parallèlement les évolutions de deux systèmes, le système de la production et celui du transport, qui sont liés par l’externalisation des activités de transport. C’est un processus interactif de la mondialisation où l’un s’adapte à l’autre d’une façon complexe dans les deux sens. Le développement technique, la réglementation internationale et nationale, la force du marché, et la particularité historique, géographique et sociale : tous ces facteurs interviennent dans ce processus. Dans le cas de la Chine, nous voyons qu’un environnement de transport qui facilite les échanges internationaux des marchandises est indispensable pour que les entreprises industrielles d’un pays puissent s’insérer dans la chaîne de valeur mondiale. / The subject of international transportation organization and supply chain management are becoming essential for multinational companies in today’s global economy. The textile and apparel industry illustrates well the process of globalization in the manufacturing sector as this is an industry whose manufacture takes on a global dimension earlier than other industries. Starting from 2005, apparel exports from China accounts for more than one-third of world’s total apparel trade. Most researches on supply chain management in this industry emphasize the role of retailers, e.g. brand chain stores, department stores or hypermarkets. This paper focuses on the manufacturing aspect, namely the process from raw materials to products. We have conducted interviews with Chinese manufacturers, commercial intermediaries (Hong Kong and Taiwan), western buyers and freight forwarders. Firstly we analyze the process from textile procurement to apparel delivery, with an emphasis on the Incoterms (Internatonal Commercial Terms) and transportation mode, time and cost. We can see how the actors adapt to the constraints on transportation systems and how this shapes the way that western buyers outsource the manufacture. The apparel industry in China adopted the manufacturing model used in newly industrialized Asian countries including Hong Kong, Taiwan and South Korea. From 1980s, the companies in these countries moved their production chain to China and became intermediaries between Chinese manufacturers and western buyers. The manufacturers take care of everything from textile procurement to apparel making instead of handling only the final stage. A complete vertical integration in the industrial clusters in China can reduce the transport time of tissues and other intermediate products. Subcontractors in China usually sell the goods on Incoterms FOB that gives western buyers the latitude to organize international transportation. Besides, the ways they externalize their transportation activities affect the market share of international freight forwarders. Western buyers often externalize the transport organization to those freight forwarders who have their own network in multiples countries. The dominance of distributors in the apparel industry has created an environment favorable to the development of multinational freight forwarders. At last we examined the market of freight forwarders in China from the viewpoint of regulation. The western freight forwarders groups expand their global network while western industrials establish their foreign sites. As western buyers have more power to decide the transportation of exporting goods, western forwarders have also the dominance in the China’s market. In this condition, it is difficult for local Chinese forwarders to develop their own worldwide network. Hence, Chinese government takes measures to comply with the WTO principles but protect the local Chinese forwarders at the same time. This thesis shows in parallel the development of two systems, the one of production and the other of transportation, which are bound by outsourcing of transportation activities. It is an interactive process of globalization where one fits the other in a complex way in both directions. Technical development, international and national regulations, market power and historical, geographical and social features: all these factors involved in this process. In the case of China, we can see that a transport environment which facilitates the international trade is essential for the industrial enterprises of a country to integrate into the global value chain.

Although distribution and warehousing theory have been extensively studied in terms of optimisation and functional excellence the extension of these concepts into supply chain management has not been fully explored. In addition information at which decision level warehousing strategies are formed is limited. The purpose of this thesis is to investigate which supply chain drivers and subordinate variables that affect warehousing decisions and how these can be used for warehousing strategies. The findings will serve as a decision support in strategic warehouse network design. To fulfil the purpose of the thesis a case study was performed at a sportswear company contributing to the textile and apparel focus of the research. The case company is facing a potential restructure of its warehousing network as the current distribution strategy has created different constraints and complexities which have lead to problems. Through a literature review important supply chain drivers as well as warehousing variables have been identified and serve as the basis for the case company investigation conducted using interviews and a survey. The empirical findings contribute to the results by determining whether decisions regarding the variables are on a strategic, tactical or operational level. The result is a Decision Support System integrating supply chain drivers, warehousing variables and decision levels. The framework fills gaps found in the literature by defining different decision levels of warehousing and by integrating warehousing in the supply chain strategy. The Decision Support System is subsequently applied to the case company revealing areas which need to be considered and improved prior to a restructuring of its warehousing network. By using the Decision Support System a textile and apparel company can map its supply chain and warehousing strategy revealing strengths and weaknesses in the network. The Decision Support System facilitates decisions regarding warehousing and simplifies the process of moving from the strategy employed to the best practice strategy thereby increasing customer satisfaction and achieving a competitive advantage. / Program: Textilt management med inriktning styrning av textila värdekedjor

The thesis investigates the reasons behind the proliferation of non-governmental systems of labour regulation in the textile and apparel industry in the USA, European Union and Turkey. The aim of the study is to identify the main structural factors, strategies and agencies which drive the process for the emergence of these systems within the confines of Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) discourse and assess their effectiveness and sustainability as a form of regulation. The thesis concludes that the incapability of the traditional institutions to regulate and equalize labour standards throughout the buyer-driven apparel value chains played a key role in the search for new regulatory mechanisms. Among many alternatives, the contests and compromises between different strategies constrained by the current structural factors resulted in the dominance of non-governmental systems of regulation resting on the extension of regulatory authority from the public to the private institutions. However, whilst filling some gaps between the organization of production and existing regulatory institutions through transforming into more collective forms, these systems tend to supplement the traditional institutions of regulation in a period of crisis rather than replacing them, since their scope fall short for solving the problems of standardization, equalization and generalization of the labour standards and their associated costs.

In September 2015, the world leaders gathered to endorse 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDG), demonstrating a paradigm shift for people and the planet build on shared values, principles, and priorities for a common destiny. In the process of consolidating the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) consultations with business representatives raised two issues related to the potential success of the goals. The first issue was to better measure and value true performance of business preconditioned by identifying the most significant impact areas. The second issue was concerned with integration of sustainability into core business strategies. Both issues lead back to the proclaimed paradigm shift built on shared values for a sustainable future as demonstrated by the SDGs and demonstrate challenges with implementation of the SDGs. Although comprehensive frameworks to help business integrate the goals have been developed, the complexity and sheer volume of the various targets and indicators hinder many companies from reporting on their performance and contributions. The textile and apparel industry, while endowed with enormous potential related to development of countries has drawn increased attention to its negative impacts along the value chain. The industry is also one of the first to integrate the SDG into their sustainability reports. However, critics point to the fact that simply linking sustainability activities to the SDGs is not enough and cherry-picking the goals that have the easiest business case will be insufficient. Thus, to address this potential discrepancy between communication and action, the aim of this study has been to investigate the perceived value of SDGs integration in sustainability reporting within the apparel industry. Through a critical discourse analysis, the study has reviewed six sustainability report by two Swedish apparel companies, Lindex and Filippa K, from 2015 to 2017. conceptual framework has been developed according to the SDG compass including two variables; communicated motives for SDG integration and methods to measure and report on goal fulfilment. The findings show that both companies are using the SDGs as a communicative tool to point to the conceptual motives which drives the sustainability work. Discursive strategies to frame the companies’ sustainability methods are made by utilizing the concept of “circularity”. The level of SDG integration differs between the companies. Lindex show discursive developments between 2015 to 2015 reflecting extended responsibility with correspondence between communication and action. While Filippa K does not show the same level of discursive maturity in terms of motive, the methods to address the sustainability issues related to circular fashion has accelerated significantly over the years comparatively to Lindex. The lack of communicated methods to address social issues is however evident. The findings further show that there is a correspondence between level of SDG integration and SDG contribution. This study corroborates with previous research arguing that the business world is more complex than something that can be assessed in a black and white dichotomy of hypocrisy versus sincerity and needs a much more sophisticated approach to the gap between promise and performance and that the SDGs have a transformative potential. It also provides insights on how the application of the SDGs can be seen through a spectrum between weak and strong sustainability depending on the maturity of a company’s sustainability management.

Purpose: This research aimed to identify and synthesize circular economy-oriented business model innovation opportunities for the textile and apparel industry of Bangladesh to position the business to its B2B customers by achieving a sustained competitive advantage.  Design/methodology/approach: In this study, we conducted a multiple case study, analyzing 3 case companies using an abductive method under the interpretive research philosophy. As a result of our research, we aim to understand the current perceptions of the circular economy in Bangladesh's garment industry and identify opportunities for business model innovation. Therefore, we designed a questionnaire to obtain valuable insights and opinions from 9 business practitioners. In order to gain an in-depth understanding of the respondents, semi-structured interviews and rating-based surveys were conducted. Results: As key results, three CE process has been identified as the most potential to bring BMI- are design (narrowing resource loop), production (slowing resource loop), and recycle (closing resource loop) based on which the T&A industry can position its business to achieve a sustained competitive advantage. Originality/value: To the best of the authors' knowledge, no previous research has been done on this topic. This paper establishes an integrated conceptual model which is first of a kind to integrate CE resource loops and resource-based view. The data presented here are all based on the respondents' perceptions. This thesis paper can help academics do further research on industries that face issues with value creation, and professionals can apply the suggested practical solutions implications in their industry. Key Words: Sustainability, Circular Economy, Business-to-Business Positioning, Business Model Innovation, Textile and Apparel Industry

Modeindustrin genererar enorma mängder textilavfall varje år. Detta har resulterat i ett behov av en mer hållbar syn på modeindustrin, med fokus på att bekämpa de negativa effekterna samtidigt som ekonomisk tillväxt upprätthålls. Övergången till en cirkulär ekonomi samt implementeringen av hållbara processer och material är nödvändiga steg att ta framåt. Att integrera deadstockmaterial i ett företags sourcingstrategi kan vara ett sätt att minska avfallsmängden och miljöpåverkan, samtidigt som ekonomiska fördelar uppnås. Vi har identifierat att Born Sustainable Firms (BSF) kan använda olika sourcingprocesser för att säkerställa tillgången till deadstockmaterial, såsom hands-on-sourcing, sourcing via tredjepart och sourcing direkt från leverantörer. Utmaningarna inom deadstocksourcing inkluderar spårbarheten av materialen och bristen på etablerade system för att tillgängliggöra deadstockmaterial. Möjligheter inkluderar framtida lagstiftning och regleringar, vilka förväntas främja utvecklingen av nya processer och strategier för att minska avfallsmängden samt uppmuntra användningen av deadstockmaterial. En industriell symbiosplattform kan vara en möjlig lösning för att underlätta tillgången till och användningen av deadstockmaterial inom modeindustrin, vilket kan bidra till hållbar utveckling inom branschen. / The fashion industry generates enormous amounts of textile waste every year, which has led to a need for a sustainable approach that combats the negative impact while maintaining economic growth. Transitioning to a circular economy and implementing sustainable processes and materials are necessary steps to move forward. Integrating deadstock materials into a company's sourcing strategy can be a way to reduce waste and environmental impact while achieving economic benefits. We have identified that Born Sustainable Firms (BSF) can employ various sourcing processes to ensure access to deadstock materials, such as hands-on-sourcing, third-party sourcing, and supplier sourcing. Challenges in deadstock sourcing include traceability of materials and the lack of established systems for accessing deadstock materials. Opportunities include future legislation and regulations, which are expected to promote the development of new processes and strategies to reduce waste and encourage the use of deadstock materials. An industrial symbiosis platform may be a potential solution to facilitate access to and utilization of deadstock materials in the fashion industry, contributing to a more sustainable development within the sector.