Esta dissertação se propõe a analisar a trajetória do aglomerado de confecções de Petrópolis/RJ, destacando as transformações ocorridas em seu evoluir, com o propósito de compreender o seu desempenho e as relações existentes de competição e cooperação entre as empresas e instituições que o compõem. Para atingir esse objetivo, realiza-se o resgate dos conceitos teóricos sobre aglomerados produtivos e sua inserção em uma economia globalizada e caracteriza-se a cadeia têxtil-confecções, apresentando as suas etapas de produção e sua contextualização nacional e internacional, para, então, analisar os aspectos históricos, econômicos e institucionais da trajetória do aglomerado. A análise é feita através do estudo da formação industrial de Petrópolis, da coleta de dados primários quantitativos sobre a cadeia têxtil-confecções do município e de pesquisa de campo com a realização de entrevistas junto a instituições e empresas para a obtenção de informações qualitativas do aglomerado. Por fim, este trabalho aponta as forças do aglomerado e quais são os desafios a serem enfrentados para resgatar o seu desenvolvimento. / This dissertation aims to analyze the path of clothing cluster of Petropolis city, highlighting the changes that occurred in its evolution, in order to understand its performance and the relationship of competition and cooperation between companies and institutions that compose it. To attain this end, theoretical concepts of clusters and their insertion in a globalized economy are redeemed and the textile clothing chain is characterized with its stages of production and its national and international context, to then analyze the historical, economic and institutional aspects of cluster’s path. The analysis is done by studying Petropolis’ industrial origin, collecting primary quantitative data of Petropolis’ textile clothing chain and through a field research with institutions and companies in order to obtain cluster’s qualitative data. Finally, this work points out cluster’s strength and what are the challenges to be faced to rescue its development.

Esta dissertação se propõe a analisar a trajetória do aglomerado de confecções de Petrópolis/RJ, destacando as transformações ocorridas em seu evoluir, com o propósito de compreender o seu desempenho e as relações existentes de competição e cooperação entre as empresas e instituições que o compõem. Para atingir esse objetivo, realiza-se o resgate dos conceitos teóricos sobre aglomerados produtivos e sua inserção em uma economia globalizada e caracteriza-se a cadeia têxtil-confecções, apresentando as suas etapas de produção e sua contextualização nacional e internacional, para, então, analisar os aspectos históricos, econômicos e institucionais da trajetória do aglomerado. A análise é feita através do estudo da formação industrial de Petrópolis, da coleta de dados primários quantitativos sobre a cadeia têxtil-confecções do município e de pesquisa de campo com a realização de entrevistas junto a instituições e empresas para a obtenção de informações qualitativas do aglomerado. Por fim, este trabalho aponta as forças do aglomerado e quais são os desafios a serem enfrentados para resgatar o seu desenvolvimento. / This dissertation aims to analyze the path of clothing cluster of Petropolis city, highlighting the changes that occurred in its evolution, in order to understand its performance and the relationship of competition and cooperation between companies and institutions that compose it. To attain this end, theoretical concepts of clusters and their insertion in a globalized economy are redeemed and the textile clothing chain is characterized with its stages of production and its national and international context, to then analyze the historical, economic and institutional aspects of cluster’s path. The analysis is done by studying Petropolis’ industrial origin, collecting primary quantitative data of Petropolis’ textile clothing chain and through a field research with institutions and companies in order to obtain cluster’s qualitative data. Finally, this work points out cluster’s strength and what are the challenges to be faced to rescue its development.

Esta dissertação se propõe a analisar a trajetória do aglomerado de confecções de Petrópolis/RJ, destacando as transformações ocorridas em seu evoluir, com o propósito de compreender o seu desempenho e as relações existentes de competição e cooperação entre as empresas e instituições que o compõem. Para atingir esse objetivo, realiza-se o resgate dos conceitos teóricos sobre aglomerados produtivos e sua inserção em uma economia globalizada e caracteriza-se a cadeia têxtil-confecções, apresentando as suas etapas de produção e sua contextualização nacional e internacional, para, então, analisar os aspectos históricos, econômicos e institucionais da trajetória do aglomerado. A análise é feita através do estudo da formação industrial de Petrópolis, da coleta de dados primários quantitativos sobre a cadeia têxtil-confecções do município e de pesquisa de campo com a realização de entrevistas junto a instituições e empresas para a obtenção de informações qualitativas do aglomerado. Por fim, este trabalho aponta as forças do aglomerado e quais são os desafios a serem enfrentados para resgatar o seu desenvolvimento. / This dissertation aims to analyze the path of clothing cluster of Petropolis city, highlighting the changes that occurred in its evolution, in order to understand its performance and the relationship of competition and cooperation between companies and institutions that compose it. To attain this end, theoretical concepts of clusters and their insertion in a globalized economy are redeemed and the textile clothing chain is characterized with its stages of production and its national and international context, to then analyze the historical, economic and institutional aspects of cluster’s path. The analysis is done by studying Petropolis’ industrial origin, collecting primary quantitative data of Petropolis’ textile clothing chain and through a field research with institutions and companies in order to obtain cluster’s qualitative data. Finally, this work points out cluster’s strength and what are the challenges to be faced to rescue its development.

Cette thèse présente un cycle de vie de la relation de sous-traitance innovante, en étudiant la théorie néo-institutionnelle à travers le concept d'innovation partagée. En innovant, le sous-traitant augmente le différentiel d'information, de ressources et de compétences existant entre le donneur d'ordres et le sous-traitant. Le contrôle devient impossible et cède sa place à la confiance. Le sous-traitant gagne en pouvoir de négociation, sa dépendance diminue et celle du donneur d'ordres augmente jusqu'à atteindre une dépendance croisée partenariale. Au-delà du partenariat, le glissement de dépendance peut aboutir au développement du sous-traitant, qui finit par détenir les activités créatrices de valeur. Cette thèse s'intéresse à l'innovation dans le service de sous-traitance dans l'industrie textile habillement tunisienne. Sur un échantillon de 191 sous-traitants tunisiens, elle valide le rôle modérateur de l'innovation des sous-traitants sur la relation asymétrique. / This thesis presents a life cycle of innovative subcontracting relation, by studying the neo-institutional theory through the concept of open innovation. By innovating, the subcontractor increases the difference of information, resources and skills existing between the principal and the subcontractor. By becoming impossible, control is replaced by trust. The subcontractor improves his negotiation's power. His dependence decreases and that of the principal increases toward cooperative partnership. Besides partnership, dependence's slide leads to subcontractor's development, which ends up by value-creating activities. This thesis is interested in innovation on subcontracting services, in tunisian textile clothing industry. Relaying on a sample of 191 tunisian subcontractors, it validates the moderator role of subcontractor's innovation on asymmetric relation.

Attirer les investissements directs étrangers (IDE) est l'une des préoccupations majeures des pouvoirs publics compte tenu des effets bénéfiques engendrés par leur présence dans un territoire donné. Afin d'inciter aux investissements ces pays ont adopté plusieurs mesures telles que l'investissement en capital humain. Cette thèse examiner l'importance du capital humain en tant que déterminant des investissements directs étrangers. Les données issues d'une enquête menée auprès d'un échantillon de 52 entreprises à participation étrangères implantées en Tunisie nous permettent, à l'aide d'un modèle économétrique de type logit, d'estimer la probabilité de réaliser un investissement étranger sous forme de création d'une nouvelle filiale afin d'identifier les facteurs d'attractivité ayant une dimension qualitative. Les résultats montrent qu'en dehors de la proximité géographique des pays de l'union européenne, d'un bon marché et de la présence d'un tissu local aussi bien d'entreprises du même secteur que d'autres secteurs, la décision d'installer une nouvelle filiale est liée positivement et significativement à la disponibilité d'une main-d'œuvre qualifiée. / Attracting Foreign Direct Investrnents (FDI) is one of the primary concerns of the public authorities on account of their positive effects on a given territory. In order to activate investments, those countries have adopted several measures such as investment in human capital. This doctoral thesis analyses the importance of the human capital as a determinant of the Foreign Direct Investments. A survey was led with a sample of 52 companies with foreign participation implanted in Tunisia. By means of an economic model of type logit, the data that have arisen from that survey allow us to estimate the probability of the realization of a foreign investment in the form of creation of a new subsidiary in order to identify the factors of attractiveness that have a qualitative dimension. The results show that - except the geographical nearness of the countries of the European Union, a good market and the presence of a local network, the decision to establish a new subsidiary is connected positively and significantly to the availability of a qualified workforce.

O Brasil tem experimentado, nos últimos anos, o aumento no consumo de vestuário. A ascensão de um grande contingente de pessoas a um determinado patamar de consumo trouxe uma série de oportunidades para a indústria têxtil nacional. Não apenas o comércio varejista de roupas se sofisticou como também a cadeia têxtil-vestuário precisou se adaptar a uma nova realidade: um modelo de produção que tem como base a velocidade e o preço. Este trabalho, a partir de uma análise que engloba os processos produtivos e a venda de vestuário na capital paulista, busca explicar de que maneira o varejo legitima seu produto enquanto moda. Assim, elencamos três fatores essenciais para a análise de nosso objeto, a moda varejista: i) como nasceu e se desenvolveu o modelo de varejo existente até hoje. Nesta etapa abordamos a história de três magazines extremamente relevantes para história do varejo da cidade e mesmo do país Casa Alemã, Mappin e Mesbla - além de dois bairros fundamentais para a formação da indústria têxtil de São Paulo o Brás e o Bom Retiro. ii) o modo como a cadeia têxtil-vestuário paulistana adaptou seus meios de produção para acompanhar as mudanças do mercado. Aqui, analisamos dados quantitativos oriundos da RAIS além de material bibliográfico sobre o tema e, iii) como operam os atores envolvidos na fabricação e na venda da moda varejista. Para isso, abordamos dois representantes de funções centrais na produção de moda varejista, a produção e a distribuição: uma confecção, a R Confecções e um magazine, a saber, a Riachuelo. Nossa pesquisa é balizada pelo referencial teórico de Patrik Aspers, pesquisador suíço cujo foco de investigação é o mercado de moda varejista europeu. O instrumental apresentado por este autor nos permite compreender como se formam e se organizam os mercados de moda varejista. / In the last years, Brazil has experienced an increase in the clothing consumption. The entrance of a large number of people into a certain consumption level brought a series of opportunities to the domestic textile industry. Not only the retail clothing market became more sophisticated but the textile-clothing chain had to adapt to the new reality: a production model based on speed and price. This paper, from the analysis that encompasses productive processes and the garment retail sector in the city of São Paulo, tries to explain how retail legitimizes its product as fashion. Therefore, we listed three essential factors to the analysis of our subject, the retail fashion: i) how did the existing retail model come to life and develop. At this stage, we take the history of three department stores extremely important to the history of retail in the city and even in the country: Casa Alemã, Mappin, and Mesbla. We also included two neighborhoods that were the building blocks of the textile industry in São Paulo Brás and Bom Retiro. ii) how the textile-clothing chain of São Paulo has adapted its production means to keep up with the market changes. Here we analyze quantitative data from RAIS and the material about this subject found in the literature, iii) how the manufacturing and sales stakeholders operate in the retail fashion. We interviewed two representatives of production and distribution core functions in retail fashion: one apparel manufacturer - R Confecções and one department store, Riachuelo. This research follows Patrik Aspers theoretical referential, a Swiss researcher whose investigation focus is the European retail fashion market. The tools presented by this author allows us to understand how retail fashion markets are created and organized.

O Brasil tem experimentado, nos últimos anos, o aumento no consumo de vestuário. A ascensão de um grande contingente de pessoas a um determinado patamar de consumo trouxe uma série de oportunidades para a indústria têxtil nacional. Não apenas o comércio varejista de roupas se sofisticou como também a cadeia têxtil-vestuário precisou se adaptar a uma nova realidade: um modelo de produção que tem como base a velocidade e o preço. Este trabalho, a partir de uma análise que engloba os processos produtivos e a venda de vestuário na capital paulista, busca explicar de que maneira o varejo legitima seu produto enquanto moda. Assim, elencamos três fatores essenciais para a análise de nosso objeto, a moda varejista: i) como nasceu e se desenvolveu o modelo de varejo existente até hoje. Nesta etapa abordamos a história de três magazines extremamente relevantes para história do varejo da cidade e mesmo do país Casa Alemã, Mappin e Mesbla - além de dois bairros fundamentais para a formação da indústria têxtil de São Paulo o Brás e o Bom Retiro. ii) o modo como a cadeia têxtil-vestuário paulistana adaptou seus meios de produção para acompanhar as mudanças do mercado. Aqui, analisamos dados quantitativos oriundos da RAIS além de material bibliográfico sobre o tema e, iii) como operam os atores envolvidos na fabricação e na venda da moda varejista. Para isso, abordamos dois representantes de funções centrais na produção de moda varejista, a produção e a distribuição: uma confecção, a R Confecções e um magazine, a saber, a Riachuelo. Nossa pesquisa é balizada pelo referencial teórico de Patrik Aspers, pesquisador suíço cujo foco de investigação é o mercado de moda varejista europeu. O instrumental apresentado por este autor nos permite compreender como se formam e se organizam os mercados de moda varejista. / In the last years, Brazil has experienced an increase in the clothing consumption. The entrance of a large number of people into a certain consumption level brought a series of opportunities to the domestic textile industry. Not only the retail clothing market became more sophisticated but the textile-clothing chain had to adapt to the new reality: a production model based on speed and price. This paper, from the analysis that encompasses productive processes and the garment retail sector in the city of São Paulo, tries to explain how retail legitimizes its product as fashion. Therefore, we listed three essential factors to the analysis of our subject, the retail fashion: i) how did the existing retail model come to life and develop. At this stage, we take the history of three department stores extremely important to the history of retail in the city and even in the country: Casa Alemã, Mappin, and Mesbla. We also included two neighborhoods that were the building blocks of the textile industry in São Paulo Brás and Bom Retiro. ii) how the textile-clothing chain of São Paulo has adapted its production means to keep up with the market changes. Here we analyze quantitative data from RAIS and the material about this subject found in the literature, iii) how the manufacturing and sales stakeholders operate in the retail fashion. We interviewed two representatives of production and distribution core functions in retail fashion: one apparel manufacturer - R Confecções and one department store, Riachuelo. This research follows Patrik Aspers theoretical referential, a Swiss researcher whose investigation focus is the European retail fashion market. The tools presented by this author allows us to understand how retail fashion markets are created and organized.

Les zones franches illustrent de manière remarquable l’ouverture du monde aux échanges internationaux, comme en témoigne leur multiplication au cours des quatre dernières décennies. La zone franche n’est pas un phénomène statique, mais dynamique. Dynamique dans le sens où ses activités sont passées d’activités intensives en travail à celles plus sophistiquées de la technologie. Leur développement est classé en 4 générations : la 1ère génération (zones franches commerciales), la 2ème génération (zones franches industrielles et zones économiques spéciales), la 3ème génération (zones franches de service) et la 4ème génération (zones franches scientifiques). Basé sur le critère de performance en termes d’exportations et d’emplois, on peut classer les pays en quatre groupes selon le niveau de développement de leur zone franche. Les zones franches sont fortement concentrées dans les deux premiers groupes à savoir : les pays asiatiques (du Sud et du Sud-Est) et les grands pays d’Amérique latines (le Mexique). En effet, les plus importantes et les plus nombreuses sont implantées dans les pays où il existe une forte dynamique industrielle, là où se concentrent les trafics et où se déploient les stratégies des firmes étrangères. Plusieurs formes de firmes sont en effet présentes dans la zone franche : les sociétés entièrement étrangères, les sociétés conjointes (Joint-Venture). Les firmes des zones franches peuvent être une usine d’assemblage, une usine-atelier ou une usine intégrée pour fournir les produits à leur maison- mère dans certain cas. Dans d’autre elles vendent leurs produits aux autres entreprises ou grands distributeurs en tant que firmes indépendantes (sous-traitance). En effet, les firmes étrangères qui s’y trouvent installées ont un comportement stratégique vertical ou global.Il n’est pas étonnant que les zones franches de la 2ème génération soient créées au Cambodge où le démarrage du développement industriel est juste entamé. L’objectif du gouvernement est d’exploiter les avantages comparatifs (naturels et artificiels), d’étendre les échanges régionaux et mondiaux. Aussi, l’établissement des zones économiques spéciales marque vraiment un engagement du gouvernement royal du Cambodge dans le développement de son pays par l’industrialisation d’extraversion : les industries exportatrices sont privilégiées. Deux types d’avantages sont mis en place au Cambodge : Les avantages « hors coût » : Facilité de l’accès aux marchés internationaux (surtout le marché américain, européen et canadien), bénéfice du label social de leurs produits et aussi les effets des accords préférentiels commerciaux sont considérées comme un des éléments très attractif des investisseurs étrangers. Le deuxième est les avantages « coût » à caractère naturel (l’abondance d’offre de main d’œuvre à bon marché) et artificiel (meilleure mesure d’incitations, politique d’attractivité). Fondé sur ces avantages, les ZES cambodgiennes peuvent être développées en trois phases : Phase initiale : Usine d’assemblages, Phase intermédiaire : Usine de production, Phase finale : Usine totalement intégrée. Dans ce sens, les ZES cambodgiennes, étant en complémentarité avec les zones franches de la région asiatique du Sud-Est, semblent être un lieu privilégié de l’implantation des firmes à activité intensive en travail : le textile, l’habillement et l’électronique. / Free zones are a striking illustration of the opening of the world to the international trade. In the last four decades, tremendously increased, Free zones are not static phenomenon, but dynamic ones. The dynamic is in the sense of which their industrial activities are started from labor intensive industry to the most sophisticated activities. We propose a classification of free zones into four generations: 1st generation (free trade zones), 2nd generation (export processing zones and special economic zones), 3rd generation (services based zones) and 4th generation (science-based zones). Based on performance criteria in term of exportation and employment, four groups of countries were classified to design the level of development of free zones. The first two groups of countries, such as the Est and the South-Est Asian countries and Latin American countries, are considered as the most dynamic countries in term of free zones’ development. In fact, the most important zone is located in the countries where there are a strong industrial dynamics with participating actively to the international trade and to foreign firms’ strategy. Having invested in free zones, enterprises are totally foreign firms or Joint- venture. In this regard, firms installed in free zones could be: assembled factory, production factory, totally integrated factory. These firms aimed to supply the product to parent company or to sell the product to another enterprises or distribution companies as they are outsourcing. In this case, the firm’s strategic behaviors are considered as “verticals” or “global”. It’s not surprising that the free zones of 2nd generation are established in Cambodia at the stage of industrial development. The objective of the Royal Government of Cambodia is to exploit efficiently its comparative advantages (natural and artificial ones) and to catch its opportunities to the regional and global trade. Thus, the establishment of special economic zones (SEZ) shows the commitment of the government in the process of the export-led industrialization in Cambodia. The Cambodian SEZ provides two kinds of advantages : The non Cost advantages includes international market privileged access (to American and European market), the benefit of social label of Cambodian manufactured products and others Cambodian preferential trade agreements, which are considered as the most attractive factors of foreign direct investment to Cambodian SEZ. The Cost Advantages has a natural caracteristic (the abundance of labor forces at low cost) and artificial (better incentive measures and attractive policy). Based on theses advantages, the Cambodian SEZ could be developed in three phases: initial phase (assembly factory), second phase (production factory) and finally the third phase (totally integrated factory). In this context, the Cambodian SEZ could, at a complementary position with free zones of the South-East Asian region, be a privileged location of the labor intensive industries- textile, garments and electronic industry.

El siguiente trabajo de investigación busca aumentar la capacidad de producción en una Mype de confección de polos, con el fin de reducir el incumplimiento de pedidos, lo cual abarca la entrega incompleta y el retraso en la entrega. Por lo tanto, se realiza un diagnóstico y se identifican tiempos muertos por transporte innecesarios, búsqueda de materiales y exceso de merma por realizar el corte de la tela de manera errónea, para estas causas de la problemática se buscan herramientas indicadas para que puedan adaptarse y mejorar la capacidad. Por ello, se adaptaron herramientas de ingeniería industrial como las 5’s, distribución de planta y estudio de métodos. Sin embargo, para garantizar que los objetivos se realicen se plantea identificar y mejorar la cultura organizacional para que sirva como base del modelo de optimización. Mediante la validación se logrará comprobar si la adaptabilidad de las herramientas operacionales con la mejora de la cultura ayude con el crecimiento de la producción. / This paper proposes an optimization model that seeks to increase the production capacity in a Mype of t-shirt manufacturing to reduce the failure of orders, which includes incomplete delivery and delay in delivery. Therefore, we do a diagnostic, and dead times are identified by: unnecessary transport, search for materials, and excess loss by cutting the fabric in the wrong way; for these causes, suitable tools seek to adapt and improve capacity. Then, we adopted tools such as the 5’s, plant distribution, and method study. However, to ensure to meet objectives are, it is proposed to identify and improve the organizational culture to serve as the basis of the optimization model. Through the validation process, it will be possible to verify whether the adaptability of operational tools with the improvement of culture helps with the growth of production. / Trabajo de Suficiencia Profesional