I am exploring the new shapes in garments by using pieces of the quadrate shape, in contrast to the body shape, as a tool. By setting the amount of the pieces for each garment, new shapes occur because particular connecting techniques are used in order to join every piece to make a garment. The garments still look dynamic because of the visible seam allowances which creates lines all over. Moreover, the primary colours are scattered into many tones used in the collection. One tone is for one garment in an outfit. The materials are various. These make the expression energetic although the quadrilateral itself and the strong primary colours look quite static. / Program: Master Programme in Fashion and Textile Design

Thesis (Ed.D.)--Teachers College, Columbia University, 1993. / Includes tables. Typescript; issued also on microfilm. Sponsor: Justin Schorr. Dissertation Committee: Angiola Churchill. Includes bibliographical references (leaves 153-163).

Cette thèse interroge le dialogue théorique et pratique entre les sens et le design. En éclairant les échanges qui s’instaurent entre les sciences contemporaines de la perception et les nouvelles approches sensorielles du design, elle laisse apparaître un paradigme inédit de la création et de la cognition. Elle montre qu’un modèle de design sensible émerge sous l’impulsion de nouveaux modèles cognitivistes de la perception, qui vient transformer les domaines de la création. Les arts plastiques investissent les sens corporels, amplifiés par les technologies ; l’architecture remet en cause la tradition visiocentrée de l’espace, et s’ouvre une conception spatiale de type atmosphérique. À la frontière de ces mouvements, surgit un paradigme du design focalisé sur la relation tangible et multisensorielle entre l’homme et le monde de l’artificiel. Grâce à la réhabilitation des sens pragmatiques, les théories antidualistes de la perception, en conjonction avec les sciences cognitives et les technologies numériques, inspirent la conception d’artefacts orientés vers l’engagement corporel et les relations matérielles. L’obsolescence du modèle des cinq sens permet de revisiter scientifiquement des phénomènes comme les synesthésies, la plasticité perceptive et les correspondances sensorielles. Le dépassement de l’idée de sens entendus comme des organes récepteurs, conduit à considérer les aspects immatériels de la perception, tels que l’expressivité et l’intentionnalité attribuées aux choses. Dans ce contexte, cette thèse explore la manière dont la sensorialité redevient un sujet de recherche et de création. Entre philosophie, psychologie expérimentale et histoire de l’art et du design, elle interroge le modèle rationaliste du design et montre que l’émergence de ce nouveau paradigme est motivée par l’exigence de s’affranchir du modèle industriel guidé par la relation visuelle et fonctionnelle de la forme et des usages. Suivant un cheminement non nécessairement linéaire, la recherche se concentre sur les moments clés et les figures majeures du dialogue entre design moderne et théories des sens, et montre que ce dernier, engagé depuis la Renaissance, n’a cessé d’alimenter les relations entre perception et arts du disegno. / This thesis examines the theoretical and practical dialogue between design and the senses. Shedding light on the exchanges taking place between the contemporary sciences of perception and the new sensorial approaches of design, it reveals a new paradigm of creation and cognition. The thesis puts forward the emergence of a sensitive design model promoted by new cognitivist models of perception, transforming the domains of creation. Magnified by technology, contemporary arts are permeating the bodily senses; while architecture challenges the visually centered tradition of space, and an atmospheric conception of space opens up.Emerging at the marches of these movements is a paradigm of design focused on the tangible, multi-sensorial relationship between the human world and the artificial world. Anti-dualist theories of senses, coupled with cognitive sciences and digital technologies, conceive artifacts that are inclined towards material relationship and involvement of the body, made possible by the rehabilitation of pragmatic senses. Obsolescence of the five senses model allows the scientific rediscovery of several phenomena such as synesthesia, perceptive plasticity and sensorial interactions. Surpassing the notion of senses as mere receptive functions, leads us to examine the immaterial aspects of perception, such as expressiveness and intentionality attributed to things.In this context, this thesis explores how sensoriality becomes once again a subject for research and creation. Overlapping philosophy, experimental psychology, and the history of art and design, it questions the rationalist model of design; it also shows how the need for freedom from the industrial model, as lead by the visual and functional relationship between form and usage, brings about the emergence of a new paradigm.Following a not essentially linear path, the research focuses on key moments, along with the major features of a dialogue between modern design and theories of the senses ; this dialogue, initiated since the Renaissance, never stopped nourishing the relationships between perception and arts of the disegno.

The ideas within this thesis are meant to clarify my explorations, research and painting practice during my studies at Virginia Commonwealth University. I expand on my general statements about being fascinated by advancing technologies and concerned about the after effects of these advancements. The writing explores my curiosity about the internal, skeletal structure of things and how they operate. I explain how the paintings are idiosyncratic hybrids that evoke animation, imaginary scientific propositions, blueprints, maps, and advancing technologies. The work combines these interests with my observations of day-to-day experiences. Isolated events provide found compositions which I then manipulate: a seemingly mundane bike ride gets mapped into a well–ordered schematic of social interaction.

This dissertation analyses the roles and functions of the German film press during the Third Reich and explores the changes and tensions that characterized German cinema and, by extension, German society during that time period. A close reading of three major publications -- a trade journal, Film-Kurier, a popular magazine, Filmwelt, and the regime's official publication, Der deutsche Film -- first challenges the traditional view of a monolithic, top down control by the Nazi regime. I show the extent and the limits of the regime's utilization of culture and media and demonstrate how different parties used the film press to pursue different, but not mutually exclusive goals. By delineating the film press as a more dynamic public forum than previously assumed, this study secondly informs us about the multifaceted uses and functions of the film publications, and about the changing relationships between the film industry and the regime, as well as the theater, the music, and the press industries. I combine a media specific approach--demonstrating the central role of film publications in articulating the contradictions within film culture--with an exploration of the media convergence in place at the time. I thus firmly position the film press at the nexus of politics, business, film professionals, and the audience, and uncover a lively, albeit restricted, discursive system, with theoretical and practical discussions about film, its achievements under the new regime, its weaknesses and the need for improvement. I focus on the three most discussed issues: the relationship between film and theater, between film and music, and, as a correlation of the two previous topics, the need to train a new generation of film professionals, the Nachwuchs. This dissertation thus traces an important moment in German film history characterized by sustained debates about political, technical, aesthetic, and social aspects of film. More importantly, it uses the film press as a mirror to some of the tensions that characterized German society along several divides such as the masses and the elite, the past and the present, as well as the contradictions in its treatment and representation of gender and sexuality. / text

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