<p>Belonging to an indigenous group in Mexico is usually associated with poor health, mainly as the result of social isolation from the mainstream society. The Tarahumara are no exception. They constitute the largest indigenous group in northern Mexico and one of the most marginalized ethnic minorities in North America. Health conditions are precarious, yet very little data are available to facilitate the design and implementation of programs to prevent and manage the main public health problems affecting this people. This thesis aims at overcoming part of this information gap. It presents and discusses the results from studies focusing on the nutrition of women and children carried out between 1997 and 2002.</p><p>A survey in a representative district sample of Tarahumara women of reproductive age found the highest prevalence of anemia among pregnant women in their third trimester (38.5%) and those lactating during the first 6 months after delivery (42.9%), along with a high prevalence of iron deficiency. In this study a technique was developed to collect capillary serum samples spotted onto filter paper to measure serum ferritin in remote settings. In the same study, 52.5% of adult women were overweight, suggesting a process of ‘de-Indianization’ of their traditional diet and activity patterns. This issue was followed-up in a later study based on perceptions of food and body shape using cognitive anthropological methods. Speaking Spanish emerged as a clear indication of acculturation that could be associated with an increase in the prevalence of obesity and its consequences. A nutrition survey among Tarahumara children at boarding schools found evidence of zinc, vitamin B₁₂, iron, and iodine deficiencies but found similar anthropometric status to other rural Mexicans. Finally, a qualitative assessment was carried out to identify culturally accepted foods to redesign a food aid basket aimed at alleviating malnutrition among young Tarahumara children.</p><p>The results from this thesis provide relevant data for an improved design of interventions to combat and prevent some of the nutritional problems that affect the Tarahumara. These data could also constitute a baseline to which future changes can be compared if similar sampling strategies are used. Overall, the findings highlight the importance and challenge of achieving modernization in a way that not only improves health but at the same time supports, maintains and encourages traditional cultural values. These are not only the foundations of the Tarahumara society, but in some cases also contribute to a better diet and health.</p> / <p>Die Zugehörigkeit zu einer eingeborenen Volksgemeinschaft Mexikos wird gewöhnlich mit einem schlechten Gesundheitszustand, aufgrund sozialer Isolation von der allgemeinen Gesellschaft, verbunden. Die Tarahumara-Indianer sind dabei keine Ausnahme. Sie stellen eine der größten Eingeborenengruppen im Norden des Landes dar und sind eine der ausgeschlossensten ethnischen Minderheiten in Nordamerika. Der Gesundheitszustand ist prekär, da sehr wenige Daten existieren, um die Gestaltung und Einführung von Programmen zur Prävention und Handhabung der, diese Menschen betreffenden, hauptsächlichen Probleme im Gesundheitswesen, zu ermöglichen. Diese Dissertation beabsichtigt, Teil dieses Informationsdefizits zu beseitigen. Sie präsentiert und diskutiert die Ergebnisse von im Zeitraum 1997 bis 2002 durchgeführten Studien, welche die Ernährung der Tarahumarafrauen und -kinder fokussieren.</p><p>Eine Umfrage mit einer repräsentativen Stichprobe von Frauen im gebärfähigen Alter, im größten Tarahumara-Bezirk, ergab das höchste Vorkommen von Anämie bei schwangeren Frauen im dritten Trimester (38,5%) und bei solchen, die während der ersten 6 Monate nach der Geburt stillten (42,9%), bedingt durch Eisenmangel. Bei dieser Studie wurde eine Feldtechnik für weit entfernte Gebiete entwickelt, um die Ferritin-Konzentration in Kapillar-Serum auf Filter Papier zu messen. Dieselbe Studie zeigte eine Übergewichtsprävalenz von 52,5% bei erwachsenen Frauen, was auf einen Prozess einer „Entindianisierung“ ihrer traditionellen Diät und Aktivitätsmuster zurückzuführen ist. Dieses Thema wurde bei einer späteren Studie herangezogen, bei welcher der Eindruck von Nahrung und Körperumfang mit kognitiven anthropologischen Methoden evaluiert wurde. Spanisch zu sprechen erschien als eindeutige Indikation für Akkulturation, welche mit einer Zunahme des Vorhandenseins von Übergewicht und seiner Folgen assoziiert werden könnte. Eine Studie zu Schulkindern in Eingeboreneninternaten zeigte Beweise für Zink-, Vitamin B₁₂-, Eisen- und Jodmangel, fand aber ähnliche anthropometrische Status wie bei ländlichen Mexikanerkindern. Schließlich wurde eine qualitative Studie durchgeführt, mit dem Ziel, kulturell akzeptierte Lebensmittel für die Neuentwerfung eines Warenkorbes zu identifizieren, um den Ernährungszustand von Kleinkindern zu verbessern.</p><p>Die Ergebnisse dieser Dissertation liefern relevante Daten für eine Verbesserung der Gestaltung von Programmen zur Bekämpfung und Prävention von Ernährungsproblemen, welche die Tarahumaras betreffen. Diese Informationen können auch als „Baseline“ benutzt werden, mit der zukünftige Veränderungen verglichen werden könnten, wenn ähnliche Stichprobenstrategien angewandt würden. Vor allem betonen die Ergebnisse, die Wichtigkeit und Herausforderung, eine Modernisierung zu erreichen, die nicht nur eine Verbesserung der Gesundheit mit sich bringt, sondern gleichzeitig auch, traditionelle Werte unterstützt, aufrechterhält und anregt, da diese Werte nicht nur die Grundlagen der Tarahumara- Gesellschaft sind, sondern in vielen Fällen zu einer besseren Diät und Gesundheit beisteuern.</p> / <p>Att tillhöra en infödd folkgrupp i Mexiko associeras oftast med ett dåligt hälsotillstånd, framför allt på grund av social isolering från det konventionella samhället. Tarahumara indianerna utgör inget undantag. De utgör den största gruppen av infödda i norra Mexiko och är en av de mest utsatta etniska minoriteterna i Nord Amerika. Det finns anledning att oroa sig för de rådande hälsovillkoren då mycket lite information finns tillgänglig för att underlätta utformandet och tillämpningen av program för att förebygga och handskas med de huvudsakliga hälsoproblemen som drabbar denna folkgrupp. Denna avhandling syftar till att försöka täcka upp delar av den informations brist som råder. I den presenteras och diskuteras resultaten från de studier, som inriktar sig på näringstillståndet hos tarahumara kvinnor och barn, genomförda mellan åren 1997 och 2002. </p><p>En studie i ett representativt distrikt med ett representativt urval av Tarahumara kvinnor i fertil ålder fann man högst prevalens av anemi bland de gravida kvinnorna som befann sig i sista trimestern (38,5 %) samt i gruppen ammande kvinnor under de 6 första månaderna efter förlossning (42,9 %), detta tillsammans med en hög prevalens av järnbrist. I denna studie utvecklades en metod för insamling av kapillära serum prover som droppades på filter papper för att därefter analysera serum ferritin halten vid avsides liggande sättningar. I samma studie fann man även att 52,5 % av de vuxna kvinnorna var överviktiga, vilket skulle kunna antyda om en “avindianiserings-process” av deras traditionella diet och aktivitets mönster. Detta fynd följdes upp i en senare studie som grundade sig på föreställningar om mat och kroppsform, genom att använda kognitiva antropologiska metoder. Att vara spansktalande framträdde som ett tydligt tecken på kulturförändring som skulle kunna sammankopplas med en ökning i prevalensen av övervikt och dess konsekvenser. En skolbaserad nutritions studie bland Tarahumara barn vid internatskolor visade brist på zink, vitamin B₁₂, järn och jod, dock var dessa fynd likvärdiga med uppmätta värden bland barn på den mexikanska landsbygden. Slutligen genomfördes en kvalitativ studie med avsikt att identifiera kulturellt accepterade maträtter och därigenom kunna omforma regeringens rådande sammansättning av livsmedelsbistånd, med syfte att mildra undernäringen bland unga Tarahumara barn.</p><p>Resultaten från denna avhandling ger relevanta data för en förbättrad utformning av interventionsprogram för att bekämpa och förhindra en del av de nutritions problem som drabbar Tarahumara indianerna. Dessa data skulle också kunna utgöra en referenslinje med vilken framtida förändringar kan jämföras med såvida liknande provtagnings rutiner används. Generellt, belyser resultaten vikten och utmaningen att uppnå modernisering på ett sätt som inte enbart förbättrar hälsoläget men som samtidigt upprätthåller och uppmuntrar till att behålla traditionella värderingar. Dessa utgör inte enbart grunden för Tarahumara samhället utan bidrar även därigenom i en del fall till en bättre kosthållning och bättre hälsa.</p> / <p>La pertenencia a un grupo indígena en México se asocia frecuentemente a una salud pobre principalmente como resultado del aislamiento social de la sociedad Mexicana. Los Tarahumaras no son la excepción. Constituyen el grupo indígena más grande del norte del país y una de las minorías étnicas más marginadas de Norteamérica. A pesar de que sus condiciones de salud son precarias, existe muy poca información disponible que facilite el diseño e implementación de programas para prevenir y tratar los problemas de salud pública más importantes que les aquejan. Así pues, esta tesis tiene por objeto cubrir parte de esta falta de información. Presenta y discute resultados de estudios enfocados a la nutrición de mujeres y niños llevados a cabo entre 1997 y 2002.</p><p>Una encuesta en una muestra municipal representativa de mujeres Tarahumaras en edad reproductiva mostró la más alta prevalencia de anemia en las embarazadas en el tercer trimestre (38.5%) y las lactantes durante los primeros 6 meses después del parto (42.9%) paralelamente a una alta prevalencia de deficiencia de hierro. En este estudio, se desarrolló una técnica para la toma de muestras de suero capilar en papel filtro para medir los niveles de ferritina sérica en zonas remotas. Asimismo se encontró un 52.5% de sobrepeso en las mujeres adultas, sugiriendo un proceso de “deindigenización” de los patrones dietéticos y de actividad física tradicionales. Este tópico fue seguido en un estudio posterior sobre percepciones de la alimentación y apariencia corporal de la mujer Tarahumara utilizando métodos de antropología cognoscitiva. Hablar español emergió como un claro indicio de aculturación que podría estar asociado a un incremento en la prevalencia de obesidad y sus consecuencias. Una encuesta nutricional con niños Tarahumaras de albergues escolares mostró evidencia de deficiencia de cinc, vitamina B₁₂, hierro y yodo pero encontró un estado antropométrico similar al de otros niños mexicanos del medio rural. Finalmente, se condujo una evaluación cualitativa para identificar alimentos culturalmente aceptables para rediseñar una canasta de ayuda alimentaria con el objeto de aliviar la desnutrición infantil.</p><p>Los resultados de esta tesis ofrecen información relevante para el mejoramiento del diseño de intervenciones para combatir y prevenir algunos de los problemas nutricios que afectan a los Tarahumaras. De utilizarse estrategias muestrales similares, esta información podría además constituir el punto de comparación para evaluar cambios futuros. Pero sobre todo, los hallazgos apuntan a la importancia y el desafío para alcanzar una modernización que no solo mejore la salud de los indígenas, sino que además apoye, mantenga y promueva los valores culturales tradicionales, pues estos, además de conformar los cimientos de la sociedad Tarahumara, pueden en varios casos contribuir a una mejor nutrición y salud.</p>

Belonging to an indigenous group in Mexico is usually associated with poor health, mainly as the result of social isolation from the mainstream society. The Tarahumara are no exception. They constitute the largest indigenous group in northern Mexico and one of the most marginalized ethnic minorities in North America. Health conditions are precarious, yet very little data are available to facilitate the design and implementation of programs to prevent and manage the main public health problems affecting this people. This thesis aims at overcoming part of this information gap. It presents and discusses the results from studies focusing on the nutrition of women and children carried out between 1997 and 2002. A survey in a representative district sample of Tarahumara women of reproductive age found the highest prevalence of anemia among pregnant women in their third trimester (38.5%) and those lactating during the first 6 months after delivery (42.9%), along with a high prevalence of iron deficiency. In this study a technique was developed to collect capillary serum samples spotted onto filter paper to measure serum ferritin in remote settings. In the same study, 52.5% of adult women were overweight, suggesting a process of ‘de-Indianization’ of their traditional diet and activity patterns. This issue was followed-up in a later study based on perceptions of food and body shape using cognitive anthropological methods. Speaking Spanish emerged as a clear indication of acculturation that could be associated with an increase in the prevalence of obesity and its consequences. A nutrition survey among Tarahumara children at boarding schools found evidence of zinc, vitamin B12, iron, and iodine deficiencies but found similar anthropometric status to other rural Mexicans. Finally, a qualitative assessment was carried out to identify culturally accepted foods to redesign a food aid basket aimed at alleviating malnutrition among young Tarahumara children. The results from this thesis provide relevant data for an improved design of interventions to combat and prevent some of the nutritional problems that affect the Tarahumara. These data could also constitute a baseline to which future changes can be compared if similar sampling strategies are used. Overall, the findings highlight the importance and challenge of achieving modernization in a way that not only improves health but at the same time supports, maintains and encourages traditional cultural values. These are not only the foundations of the Tarahumara society, but in some cases also contribute to a better diet and health. / Die Zugehörigkeit zu einer eingeborenen Volksgemeinschaft Mexikos wird gewöhnlich mit einem schlechten Gesundheitszustand, aufgrund sozialer Isolation von der allgemeinen Gesellschaft, verbunden. Die Tarahumara-Indianer sind dabei keine Ausnahme. Sie stellen eine der größten Eingeborenengruppen im Norden des Landes dar und sind eine der ausgeschlossensten ethnischen Minderheiten in Nordamerika. Der Gesundheitszustand ist prekär, da sehr wenige Daten existieren, um die Gestaltung und Einführung von Programmen zur Prävention und Handhabung der, diese Menschen betreffenden, hauptsächlichen Probleme im Gesundheitswesen, zu ermöglichen. Diese Dissertation beabsichtigt, Teil dieses Informationsdefizits zu beseitigen. Sie präsentiert und diskutiert die Ergebnisse von im Zeitraum 1997 bis 2002 durchgeführten Studien, welche die Ernährung der Tarahumarafrauen und -kinder fokussieren. Eine Umfrage mit einer repräsentativen Stichprobe von Frauen im gebärfähigen Alter, im größten Tarahumara-Bezirk, ergab das höchste Vorkommen von Anämie bei schwangeren Frauen im dritten Trimester (38,5%) und bei solchen, die während der ersten 6 Monate nach der Geburt stillten (42,9%), bedingt durch Eisenmangel. Bei dieser Studie wurde eine Feldtechnik für weit entfernte Gebiete entwickelt, um die Ferritin-Konzentration in Kapillar-Serum auf Filter Papier zu messen. Dieselbe Studie zeigte eine Übergewichtsprävalenz von 52,5% bei erwachsenen Frauen, was auf einen Prozess einer „Entindianisierung“ ihrer traditionellen Diät und Aktivitätsmuster zurückzuführen ist. Dieses Thema wurde bei einer späteren Studie herangezogen, bei welcher der Eindruck von Nahrung und Körperumfang mit kognitiven anthropologischen Methoden evaluiert wurde. Spanisch zu sprechen erschien als eindeutige Indikation für Akkulturation, welche mit einer Zunahme des Vorhandenseins von Übergewicht und seiner Folgen assoziiert werden könnte. Eine Studie zu Schulkindern in Eingeboreneninternaten zeigte Beweise für Zink-, Vitamin B12-, Eisen- und Jodmangel, fand aber ähnliche anthropometrische Status wie bei ländlichen Mexikanerkindern. Schließlich wurde eine qualitative Studie durchgeführt, mit dem Ziel, kulturell akzeptierte Lebensmittel für die Neuentwerfung eines Warenkorbes zu identifizieren, um den Ernährungszustand von Kleinkindern zu verbessern. Die Ergebnisse dieser Dissertation liefern relevante Daten für eine Verbesserung der Gestaltung von Programmen zur Bekämpfung und Prävention von Ernährungsproblemen, welche die Tarahumaras betreffen. Diese Informationen können auch als „Baseline“ benutzt werden, mit der zukünftige Veränderungen verglichen werden könnten, wenn ähnliche Stichprobenstrategien angewandt würden. Vor allem betonen die Ergebnisse, die Wichtigkeit und Herausforderung, eine Modernisierung zu erreichen, die nicht nur eine Verbesserung der Gesundheit mit sich bringt, sondern gleichzeitig auch, traditionelle Werte unterstützt, aufrechterhält und anregt, da diese Werte nicht nur die Grundlagen der Tarahumara- Gesellschaft sind, sondern in vielen Fällen zu einer besseren Diät und Gesundheit beisteuern. / Att tillhöra en infödd folkgrupp i Mexiko associeras oftast med ett dåligt hälsotillstånd, framför allt på grund av social isolering från det konventionella samhället. Tarahumara indianerna utgör inget undantag. De utgör den största gruppen av infödda i norra Mexiko och är en av de mest utsatta etniska minoriteterna i Nord Amerika. Det finns anledning att oroa sig för de rådande hälsovillkoren då mycket lite information finns tillgänglig för att underlätta utformandet och tillämpningen av program för att förebygga och handskas med de huvudsakliga hälsoproblemen som drabbar denna folkgrupp. Denna avhandling syftar till att försöka täcka upp delar av den informations brist som råder. I den presenteras och diskuteras resultaten från de studier, som inriktar sig på näringstillståndet hos tarahumara kvinnor och barn, genomförda mellan åren 1997 och 2002. En studie i ett representativt distrikt med ett representativt urval av Tarahumara kvinnor i fertil ålder fann man högst prevalens av anemi bland de gravida kvinnorna som befann sig i sista trimestern (38,5 %) samt i gruppen ammande kvinnor under de 6 första månaderna efter förlossning (42,9 %), detta tillsammans med en hög prevalens av järnbrist. I denna studie utvecklades en metod för insamling av kapillära serum prover som droppades på filter papper för att därefter analysera serum ferritin halten vid avsides liggande sättningar. I samma studie fann man även att 52,5 % av de vuxna kvinnorna var överviktiga, vilket skulle kunna antyda om en “avindianiserings-process” av deras traditionella diet och aktivitets mönster. Detta fynd följdes upp i en senare studie som grundade sig på föreställningar om mat och kroppsform, genom att använda kognitiva antropologiska metoder. Att vara spansktalande framträdde som ett tydligt tecken på kulturförändring som skulle kunna sammankopplas med en ökning i prevalensen av övervikt och dess konsekvenser. En skolbaserad nutritions studie bland Tarahumara barn vid internatskolor visade brist på zink, vitamin B12, järn och jod, dock var dessa fynd likvärdiga med uppmätta värden bland barn på den mexikanska landsbygden. Slutligen genomfördes en kvalitativ studie med avsikt att identifiera kulturellt accepterade maträtter och därigenom kunna omforma regeringens rådande sammansättning av livsmedelsbistånd, med syfte att mildra undernäringen bland unga Tarahumara barn. Resultaten från denna avhandling ger relevanta data för en förbättrad utformning av interventionsprogram för att bekämpa och förhindra en del av de nutritions problem som drabbar Tarahumara indianerna. Dessa data skulle också kunna utgöra en referenslinje med vilken framtida förändringar kan jämföras med såvida liknande provtagnings rutiner används. Generellt, belyser resultaten vikten och utmaningen att uppnå modernisering på ett sätt som inte enbart förbättrar hälsoläget men som samtidigt upprätthåller och uppmuntrar till att behålla traditionella värderingar. Dessa utgör inte enbart grunden för Tarahumara samhället utan bidrar även därigenom i en del fall till en bättre kosthållning och bättre hälsa. / La pertenencia a un grupo indígena en México se asocia frecuentemente a una salud pobre principalmente como resultado del aislamiento social de la sociedad Mexicana. Los Tarahumaras no son la excepción. Constituyen el grupo indígena más grande del norte del país y una de las minorías étnicas más marginadas de Norteamérica. A pesar de que sus condiciones de salud son precarias, existe muy poca información disponible que facilite el diseño e implementación de programas para prevenir y tratar los problemas de salud pública más importantes que les aquejan. Así pues, esta tesis tiene por objeto cubrir parte de esta falta de información. Presenta y discute resultados de estudios enfocados a la nutrición de mujeres y niños llevados a cabo entre 1997 y 2002. Una encuesta en una muestra municipal representativa de mujeres Tarahumaras en edad reproductiva mostró la más alta prevalencia de anemia en las embarazadas en el tercer trimestre (38.5%) y las lactantes durante los primeros 6 meses después del parto (42.9%) paralelamente a una alta prevalencia de deficiencia de hierro. En este estudio, se desarrolló una técnica para la toma de muestras de suero capilar en papel filtro para medir los niveles de ferritina sérica en zonas remotas. Asimismo se encontró un 52.5% de sobrepeso en las mujeres adultas, sugiriendo un proceso de “deindigenización” de los patrones dietéticos y de actividad física tradicionales. Este tópico fue seguido en un estudio posterior sobre percepciones de la alimentación y apariencia corporal de la mujer Tarahumara utilizando métodos de antropología cognoscitiva. Hablar español emergió como un claro indicio de aculturación que podría estar asociado a un incremento en la prevalencia de obesidad y sus consecuencias. Una encuesta nutricional con niños Tarahumaras de albergues escolares mostró evidencia de deficiencia de cinc, vitamina B12, hierro y yodo pero encontró un estado antropométrico similar al de otros niños mexicanos del medio rural. Finalmente, se condujo una evaluación cualitativa para identificar alimentos culturalmente aceptables para rediseñar una canasta de ayuda alimentaria con el objeto de aliviar la desnutrición infantil. Los resultados de esta tesis ofrecen información relevante para el mejoramiento del diseño de intervenciones para combatir y prevenir algunos de los problemas nutricios que afectan a los Tarahumaras. De utilizarse estrategias muestrales similares, esta información podría además constituir el punto de comparación para evaluar cambios futuros. Pero sobre todo, los hallazgos apuntan a la importancia y el desafío para alcanzar una modernización que no solo mejore la salud de los indígenas, sino que además apoye, mantenga y promueva los valores culturales tradicionales, pues estos, además de conformar los cimientos de la sociedad Tarahumara, pueden en varios casos contribuir a una mejor nutrición y salud.

Much of the effort that goes into a purchasing decision occurs at the stage where a choice has to be made from the available alternative clothing products (Solomon & Rabolt, 2009:392). In this phase of the decision making process, consumers’ perceptions of the clothing item they anticipate to purchase includes evaluation of the clothing and the application of specific evaluative criteria in order to assess the suitability of the clothing item (Saricam, Kalaoglu, Ozdygu & Urun, & 2012:2). Evaluative criteria are the specifications or standards that consumers use when comparing and assessing alternatives (Forney, Park & Brandon, 2005:158). Because consumer needs vary not only by the product they want to purchase but also in terms of information (Forney et al., 2005:158), identifying the evaluative criteria that consumers use in the clothing purchasing decision-making process may provide an insight into preferences relative to specific products, such as clothing. While several studies have shown that the purchasing decision can be influenced by individual differences as well as environmental influences, it is no doubt that the investigation of each of these variables provides important clues to understanding consumer purchase decision broadly, but are limited in some parts in their explanations when it comes to clothing purchasing decision. Literature has highlighted the significance of body shape on clothing preferences because of the inherent relationship between the clothing product and the body. The difference in body shape often determines how clothing will drape on a figure, how comfortable the garment feels and ultimately how the clothing product will be evaluated by the consumer. Moreover, personal values, which are defined as the desired end-states have been shown to be one of the most powerful explanations of, and influence on the way consumers are likely to behave in a specific situation, such as the purchasing of new clothing product, the process that includes evaluation, choosing among the alternatives and finally the purchasing decision (Vincent 2014:119; Kim et al. 2002:481; Laverie, Klein & Klein, 1993:2). Additionally, while in the process of evaluating various clothing attributes for the suitability of the clothing product in terms of body shape and personal values, female consumers may experience either positive or negative emotions (Zeelenberg et al., 2008:18), depending on how the clothing is assessed. Most theories of emotional influences on decision making take the valence-based approach (Lerner & Keltener, 2000:473), focusing on the effects of positive versus negative emotional states. However, Lerner and Keltener (2000:473), have suggested that emotion specific approach, in particular the Appraisal-Tendency Framework (ATF) model is more effective to understand and predict the influence of specific emotions on decision making and behaviour. Consumers’ choice of the clothes based on the evaluative criteria during the decision making process is regarded as a form of consumer input to the clothing manufacturing and design (May-Plumee & Little, 2006:62). Since these underlying factors are regarded as important for understanding the rationale behind consumer clothing purchasing decision and behaviour, a thorough investigation of such factors on how they impact clothing evaluative criteria is greatly necessary. This may help and guide the clothing manufacturers and retailer on how to design and produce clothing products that are most relevant for the needs and preferences of South African female consumers. The study, therefore, aimed to determine the influence of body shape and personal values on women’s preferences for and use of intrinsic evaluative criteria (styling/design, colour/pattern, appearance, appropriateness/acceptance, fit/sizing, comfort and fibre content/material) in the purchasing of casual blouse/top, trouser/skirt and dress. Information on the relevant importance of various clothing product attributes in the consumers’ mind may provide clothing manufacturers and designers with the basis for effective new clothing product development and marketing strategies. Furthermore, considering that emotions are involved in clothing purchasing decision, the study also focused on understanding the influence of emotions on clothing purchasing decision and subsequent behaviour. This study reflected the postpositive philosophical worldview which is typically associated with quantitative approach. In this case, the study assumed quantitative research design and methods and is regarded as exploratory in nature. Using purposeful, convenient and snowball techniques, the sample was solicited in Gauteng, Johannesburg, South Africa. A total of 316 women aged between 18 and 66 plus years old took part in the study. A survey using a group administered questionnaire was used to collect primary data from the respondents. The group administered questionnaire included demographic information of the participants, self-reported perceived body shape measure, personal values measure, evaluative measure and emotions measure. Descriptive statistics were used to analyze demographic information, as well as on overall data before inferential statistics were performed. Inferential statistics such as the z-test was applied to establish the significant evaluative criteria and to test the proportions of the selected emotions. Chi-Square test of independence was used to determine the association between body shape evaluative criteria investigated, while nonlinear canonical correlation analysis (OVERALS) was performed to establish the relationship between personal values and evaluative criteria and lastly, discriminant analysis was used determine purchasing behaviour. The analysis established that fit/sizing and comfort are the most important evaluative criteria that women consider in the purchasing of casual clothing categories studied. Respondents, also agreed that styling/design was the determinant evaluative criteria when purchasing a casual dress, while fit/sizing was the determinant evaluative criteria in the purchasing of a casual blouse/top and trouser/skirt. The results further showed that respondents in this study who perceive themselves to be diamond shaped, think colour/pattern is very important particularly when purchasing a casual blouse/top. However, when purchasing a trouser/skirt, the results reflected that the oval body shaped respondents think styling/design is very important, while respondents who perceive themselves to be rectangular body shaped, consider comfort when purchasing a casual dress. With regards to the relationship between personal values and evaluative criteria, the study found that when purchasing a casual blouse, respondents consider the appearance for the achievement of warm relationship with others, excitement and confidence. The results also indicated that through fit/size of a blouse/top, female consumers strongly aspired for self-respect. The results further showed that through the styling/design of a blouse/top, female consumers in this study want to achieve self-fulfillment, while a sense of accomplishment is influenced by the comfort of a casual blouse/top. On the other hand it was also revealed that appropriateness/acceptability of a casual blouse/top seemed to influence fun and enjoyment as well as sense of belonging. In the purchasing of a casual trouser/skirt, the results clearly showed that in order to achieve a warm relationship with others, female consumers strongly considered the fibre content/material and colour/pattern of trouser/skirt. The results also suggested that consumer considered the appearance of a trouser/skirt for the achievement of sense of belonging and self-fulfillment, while the styling/design of a trouser/skirt was somewhat considered for attainment of excitement. Through the fit/sizing of a casual trouser/skirt, it was shown that female consumers strongly aspired to achieve self-respect, confidence as well as fun and enjoyment. The results further highlighted that respondents considered appropriateness/acceptability of a casual trouser to somewhat influence being well-respected, while comfort of a casual trouser somewhat influenced a sense of accomplishment. In the purchasing of a casual dress, the results indicated that in order to achieve excitement and a warm relationship with others, female consumers in this study considered the appearance. The results further suggested that through the appearance of dress respondents somewhat also aspired for a sense of belonging. On the other hand, the results clearly revealed that respondents will consider fibre content/material, styling/design, fit/sizing and colour of casual dress in order to achieve self-respect, self-fulfillment, confidence, being well-respected and a sense of accomplishment. Lastly the results demonstrated that the best behaviour that drives the emotion “disgust” is “I walk away”. On the other had the best behaviour that drives the emotion “sadness” is “I spend more time shopping around”. The results were fully consistent and gave support to the emotions specific hypothesis (ATF) which postulates that different emotions of the same valence for instance, “disgust” and “sad”, both being negative, can exert opposing influences on decision making and behavior. However, concerning the positive specific emotions, it emerged that there were no behaviour differences between the emotions “happiness” and “contentment”, probably, suggesting unpredictable behaviour. It is, therefore, recommended that clothing designers and retailers should have a knowledge of the attributes that are preferred by female consumers of various body shape. It is also recommended that clothing manufacturers and retailers should endeavor to understand the value systems of their target. This study has contributed to the body of knowledge of understanding the role that body shape, personal values and emotions play in the clothing purchasing decision and behaviour. / Life and Consumer Sciences / Ph. D. (Consumer Science)

Research suggests that there is a plethora of information on the size and shape of the average and plus sized women in South Africa (Winks, 1990; Pandarum, 2009; Muthambi, 2012; Afolayan & Mastamet-Mason, 2013 and Makhanya, 2015). However, there is very little information on petite women‟s body shapes, their body measurements and their shopping behaviour, especially in South Africa, for manufacturing ready-to-wear garments. The purpose of this petite women study was to investigate the shapes and sizes of a sample of petite South African women and develop size charts for the upper and lower body dimensions. This study used a mixed-method; purposive, non-probability sampling method to achieve the objectives of the study. A (TC)² NX16 3D full body scanner and an Adam‟s® medical scale were used to collect the body measurement data of 200 petite South African women, aged between 20-54 years with an average height range of 157cm, residing in Gauteng (Pretoria and Johannesburg). Other data collection instruments included a demographic questionnaire to collect the subjects‟ demographic information such as, age, height, weight, etc.; and the psychographic questionnaire to gather the petite subjects‟ demographics as well as their perceptions and preferences on currently available ready-to-wear shirt and trouser garments. Of the 200 subjects that were initially recruited, based on the petite women‟s body height that ranged from 5‟ 4” (163 cm) and below, the most prevalent body shape profile that emerged from the dataset, was the pear body shape which was evident in 180 of the 3D full body scanned petite women subjects. Therefore, the anthropometric data for these 180 subjects was used in the development of the experimental upper and lower body dimensions size charts and as the basis for the fit test garments developed in this study. The collected data was analysed and interpreted in Microsoft Excel and the IBM SPSS Statistics 24 (2016) software package, using principal component analysis (PCA) to produce the experimental size charts for the upper and lower body dimensions necessary for creating prototype shirt and trouser garments. Regression analysis was used to establish the primary and secondary body dimensions for the development of the size charts and for determining the size ranges. The experimental upper and lower body dimensions size charts were developed for sizes ranging from size 6/30 to size 26/50. Subsequently, the accuracy of the size charts developed in this study was evaluated by a panel of experts who analysed the fit of the prototype shirt and trouser garments, manufactured using measurements for a size 10/34 size range from the size chart, on a sample of the petite subjects. The fit of these garments was also compared with the fit of garments manufactured using the 3D full body scanned measurements of a size 10/34 petite tailoring mannequin, that is currently commercially available for use in the production of garments for petite women in South Africa. The shirt and trouser prototype garments developed using the size 10/34 upper and lower body dimensions size chart measurements had, overall, a better quality of fit than the garments made to fit the current, commercially available, size 10/34 mannequin. These findings thereby confirmed that the data extracted from the (TC)² NX16 3D full body scanner and the size charts subsequently developed using the data, has the potential to provide better/improved fit in garments for petite South African women than data hitherto published. From the evidence of this study, it is recommended that the South African garment manufacturing industry needs to revise the current sizing system for petite women to accommodate the body dimensions and shape variations that currently prevail amongst consumers. The South African garment manufacturers and retailers also need to familiarise themselves with the needs, challenges and preferences of the petite consumers‟ target market that purchase ready-to-wear shirt and trouser garments in South Africa. / Life and Consumer Sciences / M.ConSci. (Department of Life and Consumer Science)

One of the greatest challenges facing the clothing industry worldwide, including South Africa is to provide well fitting garments to a broadly defined target population (Ashdown, Loker & Rucker 2007:1; Schofield, Ashdown, Hethorn, LaBat & Salusso 2006:147). Yu (2004:32) further states that from the consumers’ perspective, physical and psychological comfort as well as appearance play an important role in determining a well fitting garment and these are most likely to be shaped by the individual’s personal values. According to Kaiser (1998:290), personal values refer to standards or principles that guide an individual’s actions and thoughts that help to define what is important by guiding one’s choices or preferences of how the garment should fit. Hence garment fit and the subsequent appearance serves as a personal expression, communicating some personal values to others (Kaiser 1998:290) that can be achieved through the fitting of the garment. When female consumers encounter garment fit problems either through body shapes, garment sizing or garment size label communication, an emotional experience may result due to the failure to attain the personal values they are aiming to uphold or achieve. Cognitive appraisal theory of emotions is one of the theories among others that attempts to understand why people experience emotions. Lazarus (2001:55) defines cognitive appraisal theory of emotions as a quick evaluation of a situation with respect to one’s wellbeing. The answers to these evaluations directly cause the emotions experienced by a person. Since clothing can be used to express personal values to others (Kaiser 1998:146), the social standards appraisal dimension which can be one of the evaluative questions in the theory of cognitive appraisal concerning a situation, was the relevant evaluative component which this study focused on. This appraisal dimension evaluates whether the situation, in this case the negative experience of an ill-fitting garment affects what the consumer aspires to achieve socially through garment fit. Numerous studies such as Horwaton and Lee (2010); Pisut and Connell (2007) and Alexander, Connell & Presley (2005) on the garment fit problems from a consumer’s perspective have mostly been conducted in developed countries with limited research focusing on the consumers and their emotional experiences with garment fit. Understanding the factors that contribution to the garment fit problem currently being faced by female consumers in South Africa is an essential step in creating awareness of how this problem affects female consumers emotionally and the influence it has on their purchasing decisions. The purpose of this study is, therefore, to determine the female consumers’ personal values attributed to garment fit and to identify the emotions resulting from the perceptions of garment fit. This study predominantly employed an exploratory qualitative research approach. Data were collected from a purposive and convenient sample of 62 females from the UNISA – Florida Campus and King David High School in Victory Park in Johannesburg, South Africa through a self-administered questionnaire. Data on the demographic profile that included the ethnicity and age of the participants as well as data on the psychographic profile of the participants concerning frequently patronized clothing retailers, garment fit preferences and self-reported body shapes were collected through closed-ended questions. These data were analysed using the quantitative method of descriptive analysis. In addition to the psychographic profile of the most frequently patronized clothing retailer and garment fit preferences, participants were further requested to provide reasons as to why they mostly patronized the clothing retailer they ranked number 1, and to provide a reason for their preferred garment fit option. Content analysis, a qualitative method, was used to analyse the reasons provided by the participants for both these questions. Content analysis was also performed on additional information on body shape and garment sizing as well as data on garment size label communication. Furthermore, the means-end chain approach through the hard laddering exercises was used to explore and determine the female consumers’ personal values and emotions depicted through the perceptions of garment fit. Data from the hard laddering interviews on body shapes and garment sizing were carefully coded and categorized into attributes, consequences and personal values. Data were presented through the hierarchical value maps (HVMs) which were constructed through the software program Mecanalyst V 9.1. The analysis established that attributes such as quality of garments, various garment styles, availability of sizes, and fashionable styles directed female consumers’ most frequented clothing retailers. These attributes seemed to be aligned with their personal values they seek when shopping for garments. The findings also showed that most female consumers in this study preferred semi-fitting pants, a blouse and garments in general, a reasonable number of the participants preferred tight-fitting pants (31%), and some participants preferred loose-fitting pants, a blouse and garments in general. The specific personal values such as the comfortability of the garment, modesty, cover-up perceived body shape “flaws” and slimming effect which female consumers in this study desire to achieved through clothing also influenced their garment fit preference. With regard to the perceived self-reported body shapes of the participants, the study reflected that the majority of the participants were triangular body shaped. The study further found that female consumers in this study have expectations of how a garment ought to fit their body. Their expectations seem to be shaped by certain personal values such as “confidence”, “freedom” or “look good” which they aspire to achieve through clothing and garment fit. However, due to variations in body shapes, problems of garment sizing they encounter when purchasing ready-to wear garments and the incorrect information communicated on the size labels or the lack thereof, the majority of the female consumers failed to achieve their personal values. As a result mainly negative emotions such as “frustrated”, “sad”, “confused” and “depressed” were expressed by the participants. With regards to the effect of the perceived garment fit on the purchasing decision, the study found that fit of the garment is an important determinant of making a purchase. However, where female consumers in this study showed an interest of purchasing, while aware of some fit problems, the study found that exceptional conditions such as the possibility of altering the garments and design features such as colours that would conceal their perceived “figure flaws, made it easier for them to decide to purchase. The study further highlighted that some participants only purchased their ready-to-wear garment at certain shops where their needs were catered for and only when they had enough time to try-on the garment they intend to purchase instead of relying on the garment sizing and garment size label communication. Where participants indicated they would not purchase a garment with fitting problems, the study found that some female consumers in this study copied the designs of the garments in the clothing retailers and had someone reproduce it for them, whilst a few female consumers refused to purchase a garment whose size label was incorrectly communicated. Lastly the study also revealed that most female consumers thought that body shape, garment sizing and garment size label communication contribute to garment fit problems female consumers are currently facing in South Africa. It is, therefore, recommended that clothing manufacturers consider the various body shapes in their garment charts, know the needs of their target market and also use uniform sizing and size labelling systems that are easily understood by consumers that purchase ready-to-wear garments from retailers in South Africa. / Life and Consumer Sciences / M. Sc. (Consumer Science)

Global warming, a consequence of the ongoing climate change, is expected to increase the mean global temperature by up to 5°C this century. This is predicted to have various impacts on the earth's ecosystems and especially on ectotherms which cannot regulate body temperature by endogenous heat production. There is an intensified interest in investigating the outcomes of climate change and the role of developmental phenotypic plasticity in relation to environmental conditions experienced early in life. Here I compare the body shape and fin size of juvenile Atlantic salmon that had been incubated at two different temperature regimes during embryogenesis. Morphometric methods were used to compare body size through a box-truss network of Euclidean distances and the data were then analyzed using discriminant analysis. Fin size was analyzed by comparing fin area using analysis of covariance with body size as the covariate. The fish incubated in ambient (cold) temperatures differed from the fish incubated in ca. 4°C warmer temperatures by having a deeper body shape and bigger pectoral fin area. There was no significant difference for dorsal fin area. My findings support the notion that Atlantic salmon are morphologically plastic when exposed to different temperature regimes during embryogenesis, but additional studies are needed to determine the ecological consequences of these changes. / Global uppvärmning, en konsekvens av pågående klimatförändringar, förväntas öka den globala medeltemperaturen med upp till 5°C det här århundradet. Det här förväntas ha stor påverkan på jordens ekosystem och speciellt ektotermer som inte kan reglera sin kroppstemperatur genom endogen värmeproduktion. Intresset har intensifierats för att undersöka klimatförändringarnas utfall och rollen som fenotypisk plasticitet har som svar på tidiga miljöförhållanden. Kroppsform och fenstorlek jämfördes hos juvenil atlantlax som inkuberats i två olika temperaturbehandlingar under embryogenesen. Morfometri användes för att undersöka kroppsformen genom ett box-truss nätverk av euklidiska avstånd som sedan analyserades med en diskriminant funktionsanalys. Fenstorleken analyserades genom att mäta fenornas area som sedan användes i en kovariansanalys med kroppsstorlek som kovariat. Fiskarna som inkuberades i normal (kall) temperatur skiljde sig från fiskarna som inkuberats i ca 4°C varmare temperatur genom att ha en djupare kroppsform och större area på bröstfenorna. Det fanns ingen signifikant skillnad mellan ryggfenornas area. Mina resultat stödjer idén att atlantlaxen är morfologiskt plastisk när den utsätts för olika temperaturbehandlingar under embryogenesen, men ytterligare studier behövs för att identifiera de ekologiska konsekvenserna av dessa förändringar.

Undersökningen som är en korrelationsstudie från ett sociokulturellt perspektiv vände sig till kvinnor i en normalpopulation. Deltagarna var mellan 19 och 59 år. Ett syfte var att undersöka samband mellan kroppsmissnöje, skam och känslor, attityder och beteenden kopplade till ätande. Kroppsmissnöje konceptualiserades och mättes som missnöje med kroppsform. Skam konceptualiserades och mättes som body shame (skam över den egna kroppen). Enligt feministiska objektifieringsteorier lärs flickor tidigt att se sin egen kropp från en utomstående observatörs perspektiv. En del av de flickor och unga kvinnor som i kulturen erfar sexuell objektifiering internaliserar normer som objektifierar deras kroppar. Detta förutsätts kunna leda till skamkänslor och ätproblem. Eftersom kroppsnormerna är orealistiska är de omöjliga att mot-svara och misslyckandet med detta genererar ytterligare skamkänslor. Menopausen kan för många individer innebära mindre exponering för sexuell objektifiering varför skamkänslor kan antas minska. Ett ytterligare syfte var därför att undersöka ålders samband med skam. Resultatet indikerar att såväl kroppsmissnöje som skam är riskfaktorer för utvecklandet av attityder och beteenden kopplade till ätproblem. Kroppsmissnöje korrelerade starkt positivt med skam och det förelåg ett svagt negativt samband mellan ålder och skam.