This study investigates the supply, distribution and use of haberdashery wares in England in the late sixteenth, seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, with especial reference to the paired counties of Cumbria and Lancashire, Warwickshire and Leicestershire, Hampshire and West Sussex. A brief comparison is also made with London. Through examination of documentary evidence and extant examples, it aims to set the provision and use of haberdashery for dress into the context of the Early Modern period, and challenges widely held assumptions concerning the availability of wares through the country. The purpose of the argument is firstly to demonstrate that haberdashery, being both a necessity and a luxury, was an important, and historically traceable, part of traded goods in the early modern period, and secondly, with particular reference to the response of retailers to changing needs and demands, to show that the widescale availability of haberdashery for use in dress made it significant in the expression of personal identity and appearance for individuals of all social strata, while its manufacture and distribution provided employment for considerable numbers of people.

Diploma thesis describes a system for automatic detection of buttons from a screen photo.The system is used together with a robotic arm and a camera to detect buttons on the screens of embedded devices. After detecting buttons on the screen, the algorithm commands the robotic arm to click on the position of the detected button. The algorithm creates a navigation map in which all screens of the device are visible by systematically clicking through all buttons on all screens. For each screen, the positions of the detected buttons and the destination to which the screen points are stored.

Dans un contexte de conduite automobile, afin de compenser la perte d’informations haptiques causée par la substitution d’interfaces mécaniques classiques par des écrans tactiles, nous avons envisagé d’étudier l’ajout d’un retour vibrotactile. Ces derniers seraient utilisés comme le témoin d’une rétroaction entre le système et l’utilisateur. Le premier objectif de ce travail a été de fournir une meilleure compréhension des facteurs et des paramètres physiques influençant la perception et l’évaluation de ces courts signaux vibrotactiles, afin d’en optimiser la création. Les données recueillies ont été à la fois subjectives (échelles de Likert) et objectives (temps de réaction, pourcentage d’erreurs). Un lien étroit entre les préférences des utilisateurs et les boutons mécaniques existants a été envisagé. Le second objectif a été d’étudié les signaux multimodaux (audio-haptique ou visuo-haptique) pour modifier la perception haptique. Pour cela, nous avons utilisé des paradigmes d’amorçage à court terme décomposés en deux phases : une phase d’apprentissage et une phase d’amorçage. La phase d’apprentissage se caractérise par l’association non explicite d’une composante haptique (une vibration de courte durée) et d’un autre composant sensoriel (soit un son, soit une image en mouvement ou statique). La phase d’amorçage se caractérise par la présentation du composant haptique seule (l’amorce) suivie d'un composant cible (soit sonore, soit visuelle). Nous avons ainsi observé que des composants perceptivement absents, mais préalablement associés, pouvaient modifier le traitement perceptif de composants en cours. Ce type de résultats nous a permis d’apporter de nouveaux arguments en faveur de mécanismes communs sous-jacents à la perception et à la mémoire à travers une modalité peu utilisée dans la littérature. Une meilleure compréhension de ces liens, nous a aidé à modifier la perception des utilisateurs, à partir de composants perceptivement absents. Une illusion a ainsi été créée à partir de signaux visuo-haptiques, permettant de se rapprocher des boutons mécaniques. / In the context of driving, in order to compensate the loss of haptic information caused by the substitution of conventional mechanical interfaces of touch screens, we proposed to study the addition of vibrotactile feedback. This would be used as a feedback control between the system and the user. The first objective of this work was to provide a better understanding of the factors and physical parameters influencing the perception and evaluation of these short vibrotactile signals in order to optimize their creation. The data collected were both subjective (Likert scales) and objective (reaction time, error rate). A link between the user’s preferences and existing mechanical buttons was considered. The second objective was to study multimodal signals (audio-haptic or visuo-haptic) in order to change haptic perception. For this, we used a short term priming paradigm divised in two phases : a learning phase and a priming phase. The priming phase is characterized by non-explicit association between a haptic component (a vibration) simultaneously with another sensorial component (either a sound, or a moving or static image). The priming phase is characterized by the presentation of one haptic component (prime) followed a target component (sound or visual). We observed that components perceptually absent, but previously associated, could change perceptual processing of target components. These types of results have allowed us to provide new arguments for common mechanisms underlying perception and memory through a modality rarely studied in scientific literature. A better understanding of these links, helped us to change the user’s perception from perceptually absent components. An illusion had been created with the visual-haptic signals allowing a closer approach to the mechanical buttons.

Thesis deals with analysis of payment instruments and systems in Czech republic during online shopping and how czech residents perceive them. In the first part is defined e-commerce and jurisdiction of payment systems. Then e-wallets (Paypal, Skrill and Czech alternative PaySec) are described. After that thesis deals with payment buttons and closely related payment agregators(PayU, Agmo, GoPay). Subsequently aquiring of credit cards is delineated. Last section of theoretical part of thesis deals with new method - payments with mobile phones (Mobito, MasterCard Mobile. In second part of thesis - practical part, there is analysed (with the help of primary survey and other provide surveys) actual situation of relation of czech residents to electronic payment instruments and systems focusing on which method are they using while shopping online and how they perceive security of this systems and instruments.

Last summer, when I began thinking about my thesis, I tried to look back on my earlier work with a more critical eye. I noticed that my focus had largely been on trying to find my own idiom, and improving my construction skills. In the middle of my education I discovered the freedom in draping, and I challenged myself by putting the pen aside and instead make three-dimensional sketches. Looking back, I believe that I succeeded in producing the organic expression I had envisioned. I had still to explore materials more deeply, though, and therefore I made a summer course with exclusive focus on materials. These were the first steps towards beginning my thesis. There were a lot of things I wanted to explore in my thesis, and many techniques I wanted to try. I wanted to believe in myself and my strong sides, but also dare to explore completely new things and go one step further than before, without fear- ing failure. Being very comfortable with construction and cutting, I can quickly try my ideas to see if they work out or not. My sketching is uncontrolled, coarse and pretty abstract, it is through sketching my ideas evolve. I am fast when I make my sketches, be it by pen or three-dimensionally, but I work much more slowly towards the end when it’s time to work on the details, where I am meticulous.

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A demanda por recursos para o desenvolvimento de produtos se tornou uma importante área de pesquisa no início do século 21. O desperdício e o descarte de recursos, sem preocupação alguma com o meio ambiente, era uma atitude corriqueira, e sem grande importância para a sociedade global. Entretanto, o elevado custo para a extração de matérias-primas do meio ambiente, bem como a redução dos recursos no planeta, fez com que a indústria recorresse ao reaproveitamento de materiais ao longo de toda a cadeia de desenvolvimento de produtos bem como ao uso consciente de cada elemento. A partir da integração de conhecimentos das áreas de engenharia, foi identificada a necessidade de entender as influências das abordagens ecoinovadoras no desenvolvimento de produtos para a indústria. Assim essa tese tem por objetivo geral propor estratégias para desenvolvimento de produtos baseadas na ecoinovação como contribuição à melhoria da sustentabilidade de organizações. Os objetivos específicos são: (i) definir o conceito de ecoinovação através de uma pesquisa e avaliar exemplos brasileiros de acordo com sua definição; (ii) propor a criação de um produto ecoinovador através da aplicação dos conceitos de ecoeficiência e da filosofia ZERI; (iii) criar uma solução ecoinovadora para a geração de produtos desenvolvidos através do projeto berço-a-berço como alternativa para a redução dos resíduos sólidos; (iv) desenvolver e analisar as características físico-químicas de um compósito ecoinovador elaborado a partir de resíduos de casca de arroz e resíduos de MDF para aplicações de absorvedores de radiações eletromagnéticas; (v) criar um absorvedor piramidal de radiações eletromagnéticas baseado num compósito ecoinovador. Para atingir os objetivos desta tese foram utilizados, métodos e conhecimentos, para a geração de novos produtos com base em recursos obtidos através do reaproveitamento de resíduos. Também foram usadas estratégias que minimizam os impactos ambientais destes novos produtos concebidos no conceito da ecoinovação. Testes experimentais foram realizados com os produtos ecoinovadores desenvolvido por meio dessas abordagens. Os resultados envolveram a obtenção de conhecimento científico acerca do tema do desenvolvimento de produtos ecoinovadores para a melhoria da sustentabilidade de organizações, bem como protótipos, apresentados na forma de cinco estudos científicos. / The demand for resources to product development has become an important research area in the early 21st century Waste and the disposal of resources without any concern for the environment, was a commonplace attitude, and without great importance for society global. However, the high cost for the extraction of raw materials from the environment, and the reduction of resources on the planet, made the industry resort to reuse of materials throughout the product development chain and the conscious use of each element. From the integration of knowledge from engineering, we identified the need to understand the influences of ecoinovadoras approaches in product development for the industry. So this thesis has the objective to propose strategies for product development based on eco-innovation as a contribution to improving the sustainability of organizations. The specific objectives are: (i) define the concept of eco-innovation through research and evaluate Brazilian examples according to their definition; (ii) propose the creation of a ecoinovador product through the application of the concepts of eco-efficiency and ZERI philosophy; (iii) create a ecoinovadora solution for the production of products developed through the cradle-to-cradle design as an alternative to the reduction of solid waste; (iv) develop and analyze the physical and chemical characteristics of a ecoinovador composite made from rice husks and MDF waste for absorbers of electromagnetic radiation applications; (v) create a pyramidal absorber of electromagnetic radiation based on a composite ecoinovador. To achieve the objectives of this thesis were used, methodologies and knowledge to generate new products based on resources obtained through the reuse of waste. Also were used strategies that minimize the environmental impacts of these new products designed on the concept of eco-innovation. Experimental tests were performed with the ecoinovadores products developed through these approaches. The results involved obtaining scientific knowledge about ecoinovadores product development theme for improving the sustainability of organizations, as well as prototypes, presented as five scientific studies.

A demanda por recursos para o desenvolvimento de produtos se tornou uma importante área de pesquisa no início do século 21. O desperdício e o descarte de recursos, sem preocupação alguma com o meio ambiente, era uma atitude corriqueira, e sem grande importância para a sociedade global. Entretanto, o elevado custo para a extração de matérias-primas do meio ambiente, bem como a redução dos recursos no planeta, fez com que a indústria recorresse ao reaproveitamento de materiais ao longo de toda a cadeia de desenvolvimento de produtos bem como ao uso consciente de cada elemento. A partir da integração de conhecimentos das áreas de engenharia, foi identificada a necessidade de entender as influências das abordagens ecoinovadoras no desenvolvimento de produtos para a indústria. Assim essa tese tem por objetivo geral propor estratégias para desenvolvimento de produtos baseadas na ecoinovação como contribuição à melhoria da sustentabilidade de organizações. Os objetivos específicos são: (i) definir o conceito de ecoinovação através de uma pesquisa e avaliar exemplos brasileiros de acordo com sua definição; (ii) propor a criação de um produto ecoinovador através da aplicação dos conceitos de ecoeficiência e da filosofia ZERI; (iii) criar uma solução ecoinovadora para a geração de produtos desenvolvidos através do projeto berço-a-berço como alternativa para a redução dos resíduos sólidos; (iv) desenvolver e analisar as características físico-químicas de um compósito ecoinovador elaborado a partir de resíduos de casca de arroz e resíduos de MDF para aplicações de absorvedores de radiações eletromagnéticas; (v) criar um absorvedor piramidal de radiações eletromagnéticas baseado num compósito ecoinovador. Para atingir os objetivos desta tese foram utilizados, métodos e conhecimentos, para a geração de novos produtos com base em recursos obtidos através do reaproveitamento de resíduos. Também foram usadas estratégias que minimizam os impactos ambientais destes novos produtos concebidos no conceito da ecoinovação. Testes experimentais foram realizados com os produtos ecoinovadores desenvolvido por meio dessas abordagens. Os resultados envolveram a obtenção de conhecimento científico acerca do tema do desenvolvimento de produtos ecoinovadores para a melhoria da sustentabilidade de organizações, bem como protótipos, apresentados na forma de cinco estudos científicos. / The demand for resources to product development has become an important research area in the early 21st century Waste and the disposal of resources without any concern for the environment, was a commonplace attitude, and without great importance for society global. However, the high cost for the extraction of raw materials from the environment, and the reduction of resources on the planet, made the industry resort to reuse of materials throughout the product development chain and the conscious use of each element. From the integration of knowledge from engineering, we identified the need to understand the influences of ecoinovadoras approaches in product development for the industry. So this thesis has the objective to propose strategies for product development based on eco-innovation as a contribution to improving the sustainability of organizations. The specific objectives are: (i) define the concept of eco-innovation through research and evaluate Brazilian examples according to their definition; (ii) propose the creation of a ecoinovador product through the application of the concepts of eco-efficiency and ZERI philosophy; (iii) create a ecoinovadora solution for the production of products developed through the cradle-to-cradle design as an alternative to the reduction of solid waste; (iv) develop and analyze the physical and chemical characteristics of a ecoinovador composite made from rice husks and MDF waste for absorbers of electromagnetic radiation applications; (v) create a pyramidal absorber of electromagnetic radiation based on a composite ecoinovador. To achieve the objectives of this thesis were used, methodologies and knowledge to generate new products based on resources obtained through the reuse of waste. Also were used strategies that minimize the environmental impacts of these new products designed on the concept of eco-innovation. Experimental tests were performed with the ecoinovadores products developed through these approaches. The results involved obtaining scientific knowledge about ecoinovadores product development theme for improving the sustainability of organizations, as well as prototypes, presented as five scientific studies.

A demanda por recursos para o desenvolvimento de produtos se tornou uma importante área de pesquisa no início do século 21. O desperdício e o descarte de recursos, sem preocupação alguma com o meio ambiente, era uma atitude corriqueira, e sem grande importância para a sociedade global. Entretanto, o elevado custo para a extração de matérias-primas do meio ambiente, bem como a redução dos recursos no planeta, fez com que a indústria recorresse ao reaproveitamento de materiais ao longo de toda a cadeia de desenvolvimento de produtos bem como ao uso consciente de cada elemento. A partir da integração de conhecimentos das áreas de engenharia, foi identificada a necessidade de entender as influências das abordagens ecoinovadoras no desenvolvimento de produtos para a indústria. Assim essa tese tem por objetivo geral propor estratégias para desenvolvimento de produtos baseadas na ecoinovação como contribuição à melhoria da sustentabilidade de organizações. Os objetivos específicos são: (i) definir o conceito de ecoinovação através de uma pesquisa e avaliar exemplos brasileiros de acordo com sua definição; (ii) propor a criação de um produto ecoinovador através da aplicação dos conceitos de ecoeficiência e da filosofia ZERI; (iii) criar uma solução ecoinovadora para a geração de produtos desenvolvidos através do projeto berço-a-berço como alternativa para a redução dos resíduos sólidos; (iv) desenvolver e analisar as características físico-químicas de um compósito ecoinovador elaborado a partir de resíduos de casca de arroz e resíduos de MDF para aplicações de absorvedores de radiações eletromagnéticas; (v) criar um absorvedor piramidal de radiações eletromagnéticas baseado num compósito ecoinovador. Para atingir os objetivos desta tese foram utilizados, métodos e conhecimentos, para a geração de novos produtos com base em recursos obtidos através do reaproveitamento de resíduos. Também foram usadas estratégias que minimizam os impactos ambientais destes novos produtos concebidos no conceito da ecoinovação. Testes experimentais foram realizados com os produtos ecoinovadores desenvolvido por meio dessas abordagens. Os resultados envolveram a obtenção de conhecimento científico acerca do tema do desenvolvimento de produtos ecoinovadores para a melhoria da sustentabilidade de organizações, bem como protótipos, apresentados na forma de cinco estudos científicos. / The demand for resources to product development has become an important research area in the early 21st century Waste and the disposal of resources without any concern for the environment, was a commonplace attitude, and without great importance for society global. However, the high cost for the extraction of raw materials from the environment, and the reduction of resources on the planet, made the industry resort to reuse of materials throughout the product development chain and the conscious use of each element. From the integration of knowledge from engineering, we identified the need to understand the influences of ecoinovadoras approaches in product development for the industry. So this thesis has the objective to propose strategies for product development based on eco-innovation as a contribution to improving the sustainability of organizations. The specific objectives are: (i) define the concept of eco-innovation through research and evaluate Brazilian examples according to their definition; (ii) propose the creation of a ecoinovador product through the application of the concepts of eco-efficiency and ZERI philosophy; (iii) create a ecoinovadora solution for the production of products developed through the cradle-to-cradle design as an alternative to the reduction of solid waste; (iv) develop and analyze the physical and chemical characteristics of a ecoinovador composite made from rice husks and MDF waste for absorbers of electromagnetic radiation applications; (v) create a pyramidal absorber of electromagnetic radiation based on a composite ecoinovador. To achieve the objectives of this thesis were used, methodologies and knowledge to generate new products based on resources obtained through the reuse of waste. Also were used strategies that minimize the environmental impacts of these new products designed on the concept of eco-innovation. Experimental tests were performed with the ecoinovadores products developed through these approaches. The results involved obtaining scientific knowledge about ecoinovadores product development theme for improving the sustainability of organizations, as well as prototypes, presented as five scientific studies.

Abstract This material culture study focuses on the residents of Oulu via small clothing-related items (buttons, buckles, pins). The source material is comprised of not only excavation material, but also of the probate inventories of the townsfolk. Gender archaeology, previously unused in Finnish urban archaeology, is used as the theoretical framework. This study discusses early modern clothing from the perspective of identity with particular emphasis on gender and class; why did townsfolk dress as they did in the 18th century Oulu? Although clothing was mainly tied to class and gender in early modern Oulu, on a personal level there was room for negotiation and transgression. Classes were an integral part of society in the 18th century, and the abolishment of the class system was still ahead. However, the signs of the formation of the middle class and the deterioration of the strict class boundaries are visible in the research material. Sumptuary laws notwithstanding, identity could be expressed through clothing, in particular with small details, and clothing gave people some leeway to negotiate their position in the community. / Tiivistelmä Valtaosassa 1700-luvun pukeutumista käsittelevässä suomalaisessa tutkimuskirjallisuudessa pukeutuminen jaetaan säätyläisten ja rahvaan pukuun. Tässä materiaalisesta kulttuurista ammentavassa historiallisen ajan arkeologian tutkimuksessa näkökulma on toinen; keskiössä on kaupunkilaisten pukeutuminen uuden ajan kynnyksellä. Tutkimus ei lähde liikkeelle säädyistä, vaan pukeutumisesta kertovasta kaivausaineistosta ja kaupunkilaisten perukirjoista. Tutkimus kohdentuu Suomen historiallisen ajan arkeologiassa vain vähän huomiota saaneisiin esineryhmiin (napit, neulat, soljet) yhdistäen arkeologisen ja dokumentaarisen lähdemateriaalin. Teoreettisena viitekehyksenä käytetään Suomen kaupunkiarkeologiassa aiemmin hyödyntämätöntä sukupuoliarkeologiaa. Tutkimus käsittelee varhaismodernia pukeutumista identiteetin näkökulmasta keskittyen erityisesti sukupuoleen ja luokkaan; miksi 1700-luvun Oulussa pukeuduttiin niin kuin pukeuduttiin? Vaikka varhaismodernissa Oulussa ihmisten pukeutuminen oli pitkälti sääty- ja sukupuolisidonnaista, henkilökohtaisella tasolla oli tilaa neuvottelulle ja rajanylityksille. Säädyt olivat 1700-luvulla olennainen osa yhteiskuntajärjestystä ja säätyjärjestelmän lakkauttamiseen oli vielä runsaasti aikaa, mutta merkit keskiluokan muodostumisesta ja tiukkojen säätyrajojen murenemisesta ovat havaittavissa tutkimusaineistossa. Ylellisyysasetuksista huolimatta omaa identiteettiä oli mahdollista ilmaista pukeutumisella, erityisesti pienillä yksityiskohdilla, ja pukeutumisen avulla ihmisten oli jossain määrin mahdollista neuvotella omasta asemastaan yhteisössä.