Este trabalho discute o desenvolvimento de um algoritmo genético escrito em linguagem VBA para Excel e suas aplicações. O algoritmo elaborado foi utilizado em combinação com a técnica de FTIR-ATR para o desenvolvimento de metodologias aplicáveis na indústria cosmética e de saneantes, tais como a quantificação de surfactantes e bactericidas. Algumas modificações introduzidas no algoritmo foram estudadas através das aplicações selecionadas, destacando-se a introdução de técnicas de paralelismo que possibilitam a quantificação de mais de um analito em uma mesma execução do algoritmo. Este tipo de técnica foi aplicado na quantificação o-benzil p-cloro fenol, o-fenil fenol e etanol, em uma mistura dos três componentes, utilizada como matéria prima (bactericida) na indústria de saneantes. Também com o uso do algoritmo, FTIR-ATR e calibração linear múltipla, foram desenvolvidos métodos para determinação do ingrediente ativo total da mistura lauril sulfato de amônio/lauril éter sulfato de sódio em amostras de shampoo. Comparados aos métodos usuais de titulação, cromatografia líquida ou gasosa, os novos métodos se distinguem por não requererem preparo algum da mostra, nem consumirem solventes orgânicos, sendo mais rápidos e diretos, oferecendo exatidão comparável. / A genetic algorithm was implemented in VBA for Excel and applied in combination with FTIR-ATR to develop analytical methods for some raw materials and finished products of the home care and personal care industries, like the quantification of surfactants and bactericides. Some modifications were introduced in the traditional genetic algorithm and evaluated for the mentioned applications, with emphasis on parallelism techniques that extend the algorithm to the definition of methods for more than one analyte simultaneously. The parallelistic approach was used for the quantification of o-benzil p-chloro phenol, o-phenyl phenol and ethanol in a mixture of these three components (used as bactericides in home care products). Using the genetic algorithm, FTIR-ATR and multiple linear calibration it was also possible to develop methods to quantify the active ingredient of the ammonium lauryl sulfate/ammonium lauryl ether sulfate mixture (raw material for shampoos), and the concentration of sodium lauryl ether sulfate in commercial samples of shampoos. In comparison with usual methods of analysis, like titrations, gas chromatography or liquid chromatography, the new developed methods are faster and more direct, with comparable accuracy. Furthermore, they do not require any kind of sample pretreatment nor the use of organic solvents.

La pollution atmosphérique ne cesse d'augmenter et ses effets sur la peau humaine, notre principale barrière face aux agressions extérieures, sont de plus en plus préoccupants. Si les études cliniques sont nombreuses et mettent en évidence un impact des polluants sur le vieillissement environnemental et sur l'aggravation des désordres cutanés, les mécanismes mis en jeu ne sont pas clairement compris. L'objectif de ce projet de thèse est donc d'évaluer l'impact des polluants atmosphériques sur la peau, en particulier sur ses propriétés de surface, grâce à des approches analytiques chimiques et physico-chimiques. Différents modèles de peau ont été utilisés afin de comprendre les phénomènes mis en jeu. Un modèle de peau non-biologique a été développé, caractérisé et utilisé pour mettre en évidence l'impact de polluants atmosphériques sur la physico-chimie de surface de la peau. Les résultats obtenus sur ce modèle pu être validés grâce à des analyses réalisées sur explants de peau humaine. Ces études ont permis de démontrer l'effet de polluants sur l'oxydation de surface de la peau, induisant une modification de son énergie de surface et une augmentation de son caractère basique, mais également une détérioration de sa fonction barrière.A partir de ce constat et afin de développer des produits efficaces pour protéger la surface de la peau, des méthodes de caractérisation du film résiduel de produits cosmétiques ont été développées pour comprendre comment ces produits interagissent avec la peau. Les travaux menés ont permis d'établir le lien entre les propriétés physico-chimiques du film résiduel de produits topiques et leurs propriétés « anti-adhésion » de particules. / Air pollution still increases and its effects on human skin, our main barrier against external aggression, are of growing concern. If clinical studies are numerous and highlight a strong impact of pollutants on environmental aging and on the aggravation of skin disorders, the mechanisms involved are not clearly identified.The objective of this thesis is to evaluate the impact of air pollutants on the skin, more specifically on its surface properties, through chemical and physico-chemical analysis. Different skin models have been used to understand the phenomena involved. A non-biological skin model has been developed, characterized, validated and used to highlight and understand the impact of pollutants on skin surface physico-chemistry. The results obtained on this model were confirmed using human living skin explants. These studies have demonstrated the effect of pollutants on the oxidation of skin surface, inducing modifications in its free surface energy and a sharp increase of its basic character, together with an alteration of its barrier function.From this conclusion and in order to develop efficient products to protect the skin surface, residual film of cosmetics was characterized to help understanding how these products interact with the skin. The work carried out made it possible to establish a link between the physicochemical properties of the residual film of cosmetic emulsions and their "anti-adhesion" particles properties.

Consumption of surgical and non-surgical cosmetic procedures are increasing every year and are consumed by women to a far greater extent than by men. To bear the role of an influencer has also become increasingly common. When influencers post on their social media, they reach out to a large audience with the intention of  influencing their followers to consume the goods or services that they share. Since consumption of beauty procedures has increased in Sweden and continues to increase, we want to investigate whether influencers convey messages about consuming beauty procedures. The aim of the study is to analyze Swedish female influencer's opinions and arguments about the consumption of surgical and nonsurgical beauty procedures. To fulfill the aim of the study, the following questions will be answered: what opinions and arguments about the appearance and consumption of beauty procedures do influencers express? and What norms and values are visible in influencer's opinions and arguments? In total, 14 YouTube videos and 10 Swedish female influencers were examined. The women's ages range from 18 to 35 years old. The phenomenon was studied through netnography because influencers are very much active online and do sometimes share their opinions about beauty procedures online. The theories and concepts we analyze and interpret our empirical material with is Bauman’s (2008) theory of consumer society, Bordo’s (1993) view of feminism, western culture and the body and Cooley’s (1902) concept the looking-glass self. The findings showed that there were five values and norms that the influencers in our survey expressed, these were: believing the human being to be autonomous, women need to look a certain way to be accepted as beautiful, beauty procedures lead to happiness, the body should be subjected to examination, evaluation, modification and objectification, that beauty procedures should not be taken very seriously but instead accepted as an everyday practice.

Problembakgrund: Content Marketing är ett marknadsföringsverktyg som kan användas i syfte att skapa värde och lojalitet. Digitaliseringen har utformat tekniska konsumenter som är skeptiska till traditionella reklambudskap. Skepticismen beror på mängden information som går att hitta på internet vilket gör att det blir en utmaning för marknadsförare att nå ut med värde till sin målgrupp. Digitaliseringen har dock medfört att konsumenterna blir enklare att nå på grund av den stora användningen av sociala medier vilket kan ge varumärken fördelar gentemot sina konkurrenter. Marknadsförare kan använda Content Marketing för att skapa indirekt försäljning vilket leder till lojalitet och lönsamhet för varumärket. Syfte: Syftet med denna studie är att beskriva hur konsumenter upplever Content Marketing inom kosmetika, kopplat till upplevda värden och hur det kan påverka den upplevda lojaliteten. Teoretisk referensram: Den teoretiska referensramen behandlar Content Marketing, Värde och Lojalitet. Metod: Studien grundar sig i en kvalitativ metod med semistrukturerade intervjuer. Respondenter är kvinnor som är användare på Instagram och är utvalda utifrån dess användande, ålder och kön på Instagram. Resultat: Desto fler värdeaspekter som marknadsförare trycker på inom Content Marketing, desto större chans till lojalitet. Content Marketing trycker på de olika aspekterna av värde genom inspiration, interaktion, information och identifiering. Slutsats: Studiens slutsatser visar att Content Marketing kan skapa värde för konsumenterna vilket i sin tur leder till lojalitet och positiv varumärkesuppfattning. / Content Marketing on social media is a marketing tool which can be used to increase value and create brand loyalty. The emergence of digitalization has led to technical consumers who are skeptical towards traditional advertisement. Considering the skepticism, marketers get a challenge to reach out with brand messages which argues for new marketing tools. Due to the digitalization marketers can easily reach the target group through Social Media which can give them advantage towards the competing brands. Marketers can use Content Marketing to create indirect sales through value creation which leads to brand loyalty and profitability for the organization. The purpose of the study is to describe how consumers experience Content Marketing in the cosmetics industry, towards perceived value and perceived brand loyalty. A qualitative method is used to fulfill the purpose of the study, through semi-structured single interviews. The respondents were selected through suitability considering Instagram usage, cosmetics usage, age and gender. The result of the study indicates that Content Marketing is beneficial by using the different perceived value functions to create loyalty. By using Content Marketing, marketers can reach consumers perceived value by inspiration, interaction, information and identification. The conclusions of the study indicate that Content Marketing creates value to consumers which will lead to brand loyalty and positive brand perception.

Modifications, alterations, and enhancements to the body have been a practice forvarious ethnic, religious, and cultural groups across the globe for centuries. Over recent years, augmentations to the buttocks have become increasingly popular amongst women in Black and Brown communities. It is necessary to examine the health concerns, medical neglect, and societal influences that have contributed to the alarming increase of health complications and fatalities within these communities as a result of the procedures. Specifically, the administration of illegal injectable substances to the buttocks and the “Brazilian Butt Lift” procedure are in need of serious ethical focus and concern. In addition to the harmful health effects that result from these procedures, it is also important to recognize relevant societal and structural factors that intersect this rising issue. To fully comprehend the magnitude of the ongoing concerns, the history of buttock augmenting will be thoroughly discussed, other serious contributing factors, accessibility to adequate healthcare, and health knowledge. Cosmetic enhancements should come from a place of both empowerment and wellbeing, however the current conditions in the industry as it pertains to marginalized communities reflect otherwise. There are several contextual aspects as to why the ramifications of these procedures are so detrimental and it is my intention to highlight these issues, discuss the ethical implications, implore further research efforts, and then provide possible solutions to help address this growing issue. / Urban Bioethics

Syftet med denna studie är att undersöka och diskutera huruvida influencers påverkar människor när det kommer till skönhetsideal. Undersökningen syftar till att öka förståelsen för vilka faktorer som kan ligga bakom att personer överväger eller beslutar sig för att göra ett skönhetsingrepp. Studien syftar även till att undersöka på vilket sätt influencers påverkar skönhetsidealet. Studien utgår ifrån följande tre frågeställningar:  På vilken plattform förekommer mest hets kring skönhet? Hur motiverar influencers och privatpersoner skönhetsingrepp? På vilket sätt påverkar influencers skönhetsidealet? För att besvara studiens frågeställningar gjordes en kvantitativ undersökning i form av en enkät med ett kvalitativt moent, som sedan kombinerades med en kvalitativ innehållsanalys av fyra utvalda influencers och deras content på sociala medier. Det övergripande resultatet visar en relativt enig bild av att influencers bär ett visst ansvar över vilket skönhetsideal de förmedlar och att det i sin tur påverkar människors val och strävan efter skönhetsingrepp. Ur enkätstudiens resultat framkom att respondenterna upplever att det råder mest hets kring skönhetsideal på plattformen Instagram. / The purpose of this study is to examine and discuss whether influencers have an effect on people when it comes to beauty ideals. The research aims to increase understanding of the factors tat may contribute to individuals considering or deciding to undergo cosmetic procedures. The study also aims to explore in what way influencers affect the beauty ideal. The study is based on the following questions: On which platform does beauty pressure occur the most? How do influencers and individuals justify cosmetic procedures? In what way do influencers affect the beauty ideal? To answer the research questions, a quantitative study was conducted using a survey, which was then combined with a qualitative content analysis of four selected influencers content on social media. The overall result shows how a relatively unanimous view that influencers bear a certain responsibility for the beauty ideals they convey and that it, in turn, affects people's choices and pursuit of cosmetic procedures. From the result of the survey, it emerged that respondents perceive that there is the most pressure regarding beauty ideals on the platform Instagram.

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The Swedish Initiative on Sustainable Palm Oil in food and cosmetic and detergent industries hasemerged in 2014 following other EU national initiatives. This thesis project aims to explore thecondition of the initiative by examining who the key important stakeholders are and how these palmoil key stakeholders in Swedish market develop and implement their Sustainable Palm OilInitiatives. A qualitative approach using case study technique is used to guide the study andsupported by a combination of several theoretical frameworks, such as stakeholders’ theory and thevalue chain concept to address the research questions. Rooted from six organizations as study cases,the study found that the key important stakeholders for these organizations in developing andimplementing the initiatives are retailers, suppliers, consumers, trade associations, and Non-Governmental Organizations. Furthermore, the study also found that these six organizations useethical sourcing tool based on Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil certification scheme toimplement the Initiative in their respective member companies. As authorisers, the Swedish FoodFederation and the Swedish Cosmetics, Detergents and Toiletries Association developed Palm OilWorking Group and a simple platform for their member companies both in Swedish food andcosmetic and detergent industries in order to spread and manage the initiative. Världsnaturfonden,on the other hand serves as an external influencer that conducts lobbying and facilitations to supportSwedish companies to use certified segregated palm oil products to drive responsible palm oilproduction. The results show that Kicks, Croda, and Fazer facilitate the operationalization of ethicalsourcing initiative throughout their primary and supporting value chain activities. In addition,intertwined relationship between upstream and downstream parts of palm oil supply chain networksinfluences the outcome of the Swedish Initiative on Sustainable Palm Oil in spreading the initiativetoward market transformation in Sweden.

Malgré l’abondance d’information concernant la dentisterie esthétique, les évidences scientifiques à son sujet sont rarissimes. Ainsi, cette recherche a pour premier but d’accroître ces évidences en faisant la lumière sur les paramètres esthétiques et leur influence auprès de l’appréciation générale du sourire, tel que perçu par des sujets non-experts. Une invitation à répondre à un questionnaire autoadministré anonyme a été envoyée à la communauté de l’Université de Montréal par courrier électronique. 467 personnes ont accepté de répondre au questionnaire, toutefois seulement 263 ont terminé l'opération. L’analyse des données démontre que le seul critère esthétique objectif ayant une influence statistiquement significative sur l’appréciation générale est « l’arrangement des dents » (p = .028). Les dents versées diminuent significativement l’attrait général par rapport à des dents droites (p = .012) ou chevauchées (p = .009). Par contre, en corrélant ces données avec les convictions des sujets, « l’angulation de la médiane dentaire supérieure » ainsi que « l’inclinaison du plan incisif » présentent aussi des différences statistiquement significatives. « L’état d’usure des dents » et leur « position » sont les éléments, parmi le vocabulaire suggéré, les plus importants pour l’attrait du sourire aux yeux des patients. Avec les limitations de cette étude, on peut conclure que (1) « l’arrangement des dents », « l’angulation de la médiane dentaire supérieure » et « l’inclinaison du plan incisif » influencent de manière statistiquement significative l’appréciation générale du sourire. (2) Parmi les critères objectifs étudiés, « l'arrangement des dents » a la plus forte influence sur l’appréciation générale d’un sourire. (3) Une corrélation statistiquement significative entre les deux séquences d’évaluation et la faible variance intrasujet indiquent que l’appréciation générale d’un sourire est une action réflexe basée, entre autres, sur des paramètres morphologiques. Application pratique : Les résultats de cette étude insinuent que les traitements visant à corriger l’alignement, l’usure des dents et ceux visant à blanchir les dents d’un individu sont susceptibles d’augmenter l’attrait de son sourire tel que perçu par des sujets non-experts. / Despite all the information in aesthetic dentistry, evidence-based literature has not yet fully embraced the field of cosmetic dentistry, its rules and effects. The main goal of this study is to raise this level of knowledge and therefore, determine the influence of aesthetic parameters on the overall smile attractiveness as perceived by laypeople. A request to answer an anonymous survey was sent to the University de Montreal’s community, trough its institutional email lists. 467 questionnaires were started, but only 263 were completed and kept in this study. According to this survey, « Teeth alignment » was the only objective criteria proven to have a significant statistical effect on the overall smile appreciation (p = .028). Straight (p = .012) and crowded teeth (p = .009) raised the appreciation over the rotated ones. When the data was correlated with laypeople’s belief, « superior dental median line angle » and « incisal plane incline » also had a statistical effect. From a patient’s point of view and within the suggested vocabulary, tooth wear and tooth position are the most important subjective elements that may vary with smile attractiveness. Within the limitations of this study, the conclusions are the following : (1) « teeth alignment, « incisal plane inclination » and « superior medial dental line angulation » all have proven a significant statistical effect on the smile appreciation. (2) « Teeth alignment » is the only objective criteria, by which overall appreciation can vary significantly on a statistical aspect. (3) The high degree of correlation within each smiles rating, leads us to believe that the appreciation of smile attractiveness is a reflex action. Practical application: treatments aiming whitening and correcting teeth alignment or tooth wear, all have the potential to rise smile attractiveness as perceived by laypeople.

O alisamento químico é o método mais empregado para melhorar a penteabilidade e a estilização de cabelos afro-étnicos. O cabelo é composto basicamente de três partes: cutícula, córtex e medula. O principal constituinte é uma proteína, a queratina. O tratamento com agente alcalino, redutor e/ou oxidante, provoca modificações nessa estrutura, ocasionando danos que podem ocorrer na camada superficial (cutícula) ou em toda a fibra, atingindo inclusive o córtex e modificando as propriedades físico-químicas do cabelo, pois o torna mais quebradiço, frágil, sem brilho, áspero e com mais dificuldade para ser penteado e desembaraçado. O emprego de agentes condicionadores auxilia na melhora dos atributos físicos e sensoriais do cabelo tornando-o mais resistente e facilitando o manuseio. Neste estudo foi preparado um creme-base alisante com tioglicolato de amônio acrescido de agentes condicionadores pré-escolhidos e adicionados no momento do uso. A formulação-base foi submetida ao estudo de estabilidade física por dois meses. Foram realizados testes de: quantificação da perda de proteína equivalente em albumina, empregando-se o método de Lowry modificado por Peterson; penteabilidade e tração de ruptura. Os resultados indicaram que a adição de óleo de jojoba e de silicones, como Lauril PEG/PPG18/18 meticona e Ciclopentasiloxano (e) PEG-12 polímero de dimeticone reticulado, melhoram os atributos físico-químicos e sensoriais das mechas de cabelo afro-étnico, sendo indicado como agentes condicionadores que poderão ser acrescidos à formulação do creme-base alisante. / Chemical hair relaxing is the most common used method to improve combability and styling on afro-ethnic hair. The hair is basically composed of three parts: cuticle, cortex and medulla. The main basic element is a protein, the keratin. The treatment with an alkaline reducing agent and/or an oxidant agent causes modifications in this structure, and related damages that can occur in the superficial layer (cuticle) through ali the fiber, reaching the cortex and modifying the physical-chemical properties of the hair. In that case, the hair becomes more fragile, it has no shine, gets rough and it is very difficulty to comb and to detangle it. Conditioning agents can improve the physical and sensorial attributes of the hair, thus allowing it to become more resistant and making it easier to take care of. In this study a hair straightener cream-base with ammonium thioglycolate was prepared and the selected conditioning agents added at the moment of the use. The straightener cream-base was submitted to the physical stability study for two months. The tests had been carried through: quantification of protein loss of albumine equivalent, using the Lowry method modified by Peterson; the combability and rupture traction. The results have indicated that the addition of Jojoba oil and silicones as Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 methicone; and Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG-12 dimethicone crosspolymer, improve the physical-chemical and sensorial attributes of the afro-ethnic hair tresses, being indicated as conditioning agents that could be added in a hair straighteners cream formulation to help its care.