Cosmetic surgery is more widely accepted than ever. Appearance dissatisfaction and increased investment in appearance, or appearance orientation, have been linked to more favorable attitudes towards cosmetic surgery. Cognitive behavioral models of social anxiety were reviewed and integrated with existing theories of body image to provide a theoretical background for the exploration of influences on acceptance of cosmetic surgery. In this investigation, the relationships between subjective evaluations of appearance, appearance orientation (AO), fear of negative evaluation (FNE), and attitudes towards cosmetic surgery using the Acceptance of Cosmetic Surgery Scale (ACSS; Henderson-King & Henderson-King, 2005) were explored in two samples of women. Sample 1 consisted of 327 undergraduate women (M age = 20.50, SD = 4.30); Sample 2 consisted of 102 female volunteers (M age = 34.04, SD = 9.18). In Sample 1, lower overall and feature-specific attractiveness and greater dissatisfaction with appearance were related to increased ACSS, and AO was positively correlated with FNE, which was strongly related to ACSS. In both samples, individuals with lower self-rated attractiveness and appearance satisfaction had higher FNE. In Sample 1, FNE partially mediated the relationship between AO and general attitudes towards surgery, social motivations for surgery, and consideration of future surgery. FNE did not mediate the relationship between AO and acceptance of surgery based on intrapersonal factors, nor was there evidence of mediation by FNE for any of the ACSS factors in Sample 2. Next, a reverse mediation model was tested to examine the initial hypothesized ordering of variables. In Sample 1, AO partially or fully mediated the relationship between FNE and the ACSS total and factor scores, calling into question the hypothesized ordering of predictors in our initial model. There was no evidence of mediation by AO in Sample 2. Lastly, a model in which FNE was hypothesized to strengthen the ability of AO to predict ACSS was tested. No evidence of a moderation effect for any of the factors of ACSS was found in either sample. The results of this investigation suggest that features of social anxiety may be a fruitful area for continued research that may inform a more thorough understanding of body image and its influences on attitudes towards, pursuit of, and satisfaction with cosmetic surgery. / Psychology

Unga kvinnors press att se ut på ett visst sätt ökar som i sin tur leder till att skönhetsingrepp blir mer vanligt. Tidigare forskning har visat att kroppsmissnöje är en anledning till att unga kvinnor väljer att genomföra skönhetsingrepp. Syftet med föreliggande studie var att undersöka unga kvinnors perspektiv på kosmetiska skönhetsingrepp. För att möjliggöra detta har en kvalitativ intervjumetod använts med åtta kvinnliga deltagare mellan 21–28 år som genomgått något typ av kosmetiskt ingrepp. En tematisk analys har använts för att analysera materialet. Resultatet pekar bland annat på kroppsmissnöje och kroppskomplex som har varit bidragande orsaker till kvinnornas genomföranden av kosmetiska ingrepp. Hos deltagarna var förbättrad självkänsla efter genomfört ingrepp en tydlig konsekvens och de hade en positiv inställning till skönhetsingrepp. I helhet visar studien att faktorer som sociala medier upplevs bidra till valet att utföra ett skönhetsingrepp och en positiv syn av skönhetsingrepp syns bland deltagarna. Studien har bidragit med ökad kunskap om bakomliggande orsaker till att unga kvinnor väljer att genomföra skönhetsingrepp.

[pt] Os surfactantes derivados de aminoácidos são moléculas que apresentam interesse tanto acadêmico quanto industrial por apresentarem características como baixa toxicidade e alta biodegradabilidade. Dentro dessa classe destaca-se o N-Lauril Sarcosinato de Sódio que vem sendo cada vez mais utilizado para substituir surfactantes aniônicos, como o dodecil sulfato de sódio, principalmente na área de cosméticos. Entretanto, estudos sobre seu comportamento de fases ainda são escassos, principalmente envolvendo a sua interação com outras moléculas, como o caso dos polímeros. Polímeros e surfactantes são utilizados juntos em diversos processos industriais, e conhecer o resultado de suas interações é de extrema importância para controlar as propriedades da mistura, já que se diferem totalmente das propriedades individuais de seus componentes. Neste trabalho, realizou-se o estudo das estruturas e termodinâmica de autoassociação de sistemas contendo o N-Lauril Sarcosinato de Sódio (LS) e polímeros com diferentes naturezas químicas: (PEG), (PSS), (PAA) e (PDADMAC). utilizando-se as técnicas de calorimetria, tensiometria, titulação calorimétrica isotérmica (ITC), espalhamento de luz dinâmico (DLS) e de raios X a baixos ângulos (SAXS). Os resultados mostraram que a micelização do LS ocorre na faixa de 10 a 14,6 nm a 298 K, tendo seu valor dependente da sensibilidade da técnica utilizada para sua determinação. A caracterização da estrutura das micelas em água indicou que elas possuem formato elipsoide e se alongam com o aumento da concentração, mas são muito dependentes do pH do meio. Além disso, este surfactante não apresentou formação de fases líquido-cristalinas na faixa de concentração estudada. Os polímeros PEG e PSS não afetam significativamente a termodinâmica de micelização do LS. Enquanto o PEG não apresentou indícios de interação alguma com LS, o PSS pode atuar como um sal levando ao crescimento unidimensional das micelas. O PAA pode ou não interagir fortemente com o LS dependendo do pH da solução, e inclusive induzir a formação de agregados em concentrações inferiores à concentração micelar crítica (CMC). Já o PDAMAC, que apresenta carga oposta ao LS, apresenta uma forte atração eletrostática com o surfactante, levando à separação de fases, em concentrações muito menores do que a CMC. O precipitado formado apresentou a mesma estrutura encontrada para altas concentrações de surfactante puro. Este estudo mostra como a natureza química de diferentes polímeros – neutro, aniônico e catiônico – influencia nas interações com o N-Lauril Sarcosinato de Sódio e, consequentemente, nos seus processos de micelização e estruturas de autoassociação. Portanto, permite uma melhor previsão e maior controle das propriedades de formulações em que se deseja combinar polímeros e surfactantes. / [en] Surfactants derived from amino acids are molecules that exhibit a great interest in academic and industrial research, as they present characteristics such as low toxicity and high biodegradability. Within this class, N-Lauryl Sarcosinate stands out as an anionic surfactant whose application has been increasingly used to replace other anionic surfactants, such as sodium dodecyl sulfate, mainly in cosmetics. However, studies on its behavior are still scarce, mainly involving its interaction with other molecules, such as polymers. Polymers and surfactants are used together in several industrial processes and, knowing the result of their interactions is extremely important to control the properties of the mixture since they totally differ from the individual properties of its components. In this work, the study of the structures and thermodynamics of self-assembly of systems containing N-Lauryl Sarcosinate (LS) and polymers with different chemical nature: (PEG), (PSS), (PAA) and (PDADMAC) was performed using the techniques of calorimetry, tensiometry, isothermal calorimetric titration (ITC), dynamic light scattering (DLS) and Small-angle X-ray Scattering (SAXS).The results showed that the micellization of the LS occurs in the range from 10 to 14.6 nm to 298 K, with its value being dependent on the sensitivity of the technique used for its determination. The characterization of the micelle structure in water indicated that they have an ellipsoid shape and elongate with increasing concentration, but are very dependent on the pH of the medium. Also, this surfactant showed no signs of liquid-crystalline phases formation in the studied concentration range. The polymers PEG and PSS do not significantly affect the LS micellization thermodynamics. While PEG showed no evidence of any interaction with LS, PSS can act as a salt leading to the unidimensional growth of micelles. PAA may or may not interact strongly with LS depending on the solution s pH, and even induce the formation of aggregates at concentrations below the critical micellar concentration (CMC). PDADMAC, which has a charge opposite to LS, has a strong electrostatic attraction with the surfactant, leading to phase separation, in much lower concentrations than CMC. The precipitate formed had the same structure found for high concentrations of pure surfactant. This study shows how the chemical nature of different polymers - neutral, anionic, and cationic - influences interactions with N-Lauryl Sarcosinate and, consequently, in their micellization processes and self-assembly structures. Therefore, it allows a better forecast and greater control of formulations properties in which it is desired to combine polymers and surfactants.

This study explored whether women who have breast augmentation are more vulnerable to negative stereotypes about their intelligence and abilities than women who do not elect to have breast augmentation. Furthermore, whether the motivation for seeking such surgery contributes to stereotypes was also explored. Participants in this study read experimentally manipulated biographies of a fictitious female author, followed by her short story. The only manipulation was one line in the author's biography which varied the reason for the plastic surgery across 4 conditions (for herself, for her significant other, for medical reconstructive reasons, or no surgery). The participants were asked to read and evaluate the author and her work. The results of this study suggest that women who elect to have plastic surgery for herself or her husband are perceived as being less deep. The results also suggest that women who have previously elected to have plastic surgery judged the authors' fictional work more critically when she had plastic surgery for herself or for her husband.

The complexity of breast-specific body image concerns among women considering cosmetic breast surgery (CBS) underscores the need for a nuanced assessment tool. Despite numerous existing body image measures, there remains a need for a concise, validated instrument focusing on satisfaction with breast appearance. The development of the Breast Appearance Concerns Scale (BACS) aimed at assessing the multifaceted nature of breast-specific concerns through a patient centered lens within a population of otherwise healthy young adult women. The BACS was developed through a comprehensive review of existing literature and refined using exploratory and confirmatory factor analyses, in addition to Rasch measurement analysis. The scale's psychometric properties were evaluated, including its internal consistency, test-retest reliability, divergent validity, and predictive validity through its relationship with established measures of appearance investment, self-esteem, anxiety, and depression. The BACS demonstrated a robust two-factor structure, emphasizing nipple-areola satisfaction and general breast satisfaction, with good internal consistency and test-retest reliability. The scale's divergent validity was supported by significant correlations with related psychological measures, establishing its distinctiveness in assessing breast-specific concerns. Discriminant analyses highlighted the scale's predictive efficacy, particularly for general breast satisfaction in relation to CBS consideration. The BACS scales also demonstrated superior specificity and sensitivity compared to other measures of psychological functioning. These findings indicate that the BACS is a reliable and valid instrument, offering deeper insights into the motivations behind CBS. While the scale has potential to improve the clinical consultation process, further research and refinement of the scale is needed to establish its broader applicability. Future directions should explore the BACS's comparative effectiveness with other instruments, its relevance across diverse populations, and its potential to predict post-surgical satisfaction. This study contributes to the ongoing efforts to address body image concerns and improve the quality of care for individuals considering CBS.

民國93年4月醫療法修正通過，第82條第2項明文規定：「醫療機構及其醫事人員因執行業務致生損害於病人，以故意或過失為限，負損害賠償責任。」本條之立法意旨係為避免一般必要性醫療若採無過失責任，則會造成防禦性醫療之產生，誠非病患與社會之益。雖修法後認定醫療行為不適用無過失責任規定，但醫療行為是否適用消保法其他規定，則未明文。然，新興醫療型態之美容醫學出現，人們不再單純為了治癒疾病進而追求外觀美貌，破除了一般必要性醫療之特性，此種「非治療性」且「非必要性」醫療的美容醫學服務，缺乏公益性且具消費營利特性，本文認為法律適用應與一般必要性醫療區別。又，我國消費者保護法未對服務設有定義性之文字，故本文加以分析美容醫學適用消費者保護法之理由。 研究方法上係以文獻分析法、美容醫學相關判決書內容分析法、美容醫學使用者之深度訪談法、筆者實際訪查美容醫學診所之參與觀察法，藉此推論出美容醫學之特性加以定性，亦從中了解美容醫學產業真實狀況以提出法律適用上之疑義。 管見認為我國應加強於美容醫學處置分類及美容醫學作業方面的能力要求、針對美容醫學廣告管制、美容醫學手術作業標準與美容醫學道德規範之建立。另，本文建議醫療法第82條第2項修法增訂但書：「但非以治療疾病目的之醫療行為，不在此限。」此種修法方式，則區分一般必要性醫療行為與非必要醫療行為，一則保護美容醫學消費者的權益，二則可據其反面解釋，更進一步確認「一般必要性醫療行為」適用過失責任之立法意旨。 / In 2014 April, Medical Care Act amend Article 82 section 2 “Medical care institutions and their medical personnel who harm patients in the execution of practice, whether deliberate or by accident, shall be responsible for compensation.” The purpose of this article is to avoid “Defensive Medicine” happen when the essential medical procedures apply to the no-fault liability, because Defensive Medicine won’t benefit the patients and the whole society. As a result, medical practice does not apply to strict liability after amending Medical Care Act. However, it doesn’t show medical practice is applicable Consumer Protection Law or not. Nowadays, people are no longer only to cure disease but to pursue the appearance of beauty. Therefore, new type of medical treatments appears - Aesthetic Medicine. This kind of medical treatment breaks down the traits of the essential medical procedures, such as "non-therapeutic" and "non-essential". Aesthetic Medicine which is losing sight of public welfare is actually a business guided by market structures aimed primarily at material gain and profit. Therefore, this study discusses the difference between Aesthetic Medicine and Medical Necessity, and why they should have the different applications of law. In Taiwan, Consumer Protection Law doesn’t define “the service”, so this study analyzed the reasons why Aesthetic Medicine should include in “the service” that should apply to Consumer Protection Law. The method of this study were Documentary Analysis, Content Analysis of the judgments relate to the Aesthetic Medicine, in-depth interview of the Aesthetic Medicine users, Participant Observation of the Aesthetic Medicine clinics, infer a conclusion from the fact that can realize the traits of the Aesthetic Medicine and question the way Aesthetic Medicine apply to the law. The results of this study would provide useful information in drawing related regulations, policies and management strategies. Key words: Cosmetic medicine, consumer protection laws, the non-necessity of medical care, medical cosmetic, medical disputes.

Caffeine is frequently used in cosmetics due to its well-characterised skin permeation properties and is widely incorporated in cosmetic-related products intended for skin (Samah & Heard, 2013:631). Despite its polar characteristics (Dias et al., 1999:41), caffeine is an important biologically and cosmetically active compound (Herman & Herman, 2012:13). This active pharmaceutical ingredient (API) has a broad range of advantages in the world of cosmetics, including the improvement of microcirculation in the capillaries (Lupi et al., 2007:107), showing anti-cellulite activity in the fatty tissue (Velasco et al., 2008:24), anti-oxidation activity in sunscreens & anti-ageing products (Koo et al., 2007:964) and the stimulation of hair growth (Fisher et al., 2007:27). Caffeine has also shown significant decreases in UV-induced skin tumour multiplicity (Lu et al., 2001:5003, 5008) and has been proven to prevent photo-damaged skin, which includes the formation of wrinkles and histological alterations (Mitani et al., 2007:86). It is therefore clear that the challenge for the dermal delivery of the hydrophilic caffeine is for it to be retained in the specific skin layers (dermal delivery) where it can exert its action, rather than to permeate through the skin and into the hydrophilic systemic circulation (transdermal delivery) (Wiechers et al., 2008:10). In this study the calculated skin delivery gap (SDG) values, and the transdermal and dermal delivery of caffeine from three different semi-solid topical formulations were compared. The SDG theory was developed to evaluate the effectiveness of dermal delivery of API from topical formulations and is known as the ratio between the concentration required to achieve minimum effect relative to the concentration obtained at the target site (JW Solutions, 2011). During this study the principle of the SDG was investigated by using the formulating strategy, Formulating for Efficacy (FFE™), which aims to optimise skin delivery of APIs from different formulations. The SDG was therefore implemented and in vitro transdermal studies were utilised to ultimately prove or disprove the hypothesis of SDG on the prediction of the topical delivery of caffeine. The human skin consists of two distinctive layers namely the epidermis (including the stratum corneum (SC) and viable dermis) and the dermis (Menon, 2002:S3). The main barrier to dermal and transdermal permeation is the outermost layer of the skin, the SC (Fang et al., 2007:343). The difference between the target site for dermal and transdermal delivery of APIs is crucial to be mentioned. Dermal delivery includes the delivery of an API to the skin surface, SC, viable epidermis or dermis, whereas transdermal delivery requires the API to permeate all the way through the various skin layers and into the systemic circulation (Wiechers, 2000:42). Since this study involves the optimisation of the topical delivery of caffeine, the physicochemical properties of this API as well as those of the skin should be considered. As mentioned before, caffeine is a rather polar molecule (Dias et al., 1999:41), whereas the SC (lipophilic) provides the rate-limiting barrier to the percutaneous absorption of polar (hydrophilic) molecules, such as caffeine (Barry, 1983:105). Caffeine was incorporated into three different formulations: a gel and two creams (differing only in the ratio of the primary and secondary emollient). The three topical formulations each had different polarities, where the Gel represented the hydrophilic formulation (more polar than the skin), whereas the first cream, Cream 1 (containing 5% DMI and 9% glycerine), served as the intermediate formulation (similar polarity as the SC), and the second cream, Cream 2 (10% DMI and 4% glycerine), was the formulation less polar (therefore more lipophilic) than the SC. Franz cell type transdermal diffusion studies were performed on the three semi-solid formulations (Gel, Cream 1 and Cream 2). The diffusion studies were conducted over a period of 12 h, followed by the tape stripping of the skin directly after each diffusion study. Caucasian female abdominal skin was obtained with consent from willing donors. Ethical approval for the acquisition and use of the donated skin was granted under reference number NWU-00114-11-A5. The formulations each contained 1% of caffeine as API. The skin used for the diffusion studies was prepared with the use of a Zimmer Dermatome®. The receptor phase of each Franz cell was withdrawn at predetermined time intervals and subsequently analysed with high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) in order to determine the concentration of caffeine that permeated through the skin. Stratum corneum-epidermis (SCE) and epidermis-dermis (ED) samples were prepared and left overnight at a temperature of 4 °C, and they were analysed the following day with the use of HPLC in order to determine the concentration of caffeine that had accumulated in the particular skin layers. The SDG value for each caffeine formulation was calculated and it was compared to the flux and tape stripping results obtained from the diffusion studies. To ultimately prove or disprove the SDG theory, the skin diffusion studies and tape stripping results were used to determine whether any difference occurred in the absorption or penetration of the API from the different formulations into the skin. The formulation with the intermediate polarity (Cream 1) produced the highest transdermal flux of caffeine due to the hydrophilic and lipophilic nature of caffeine and the formulation, respectively. Cream 1 is sufficiently lipophilic to transport caffeine into the SC and at the same time sufficiently hydrophilic (more polar than Cream 2) to cause a greater driving force of caffeine through to the more hydrophilic epidermis, dermis and systemic circulation. The results from the tape stripping yielded that Cream 2 (the more lipophilic formulation) produced the highest concentration of caffeine into the SCE due to the hydrophilic and lipophilic nature of caffeine and the formulation, respectively. The difference in polarity between the formulation and the API in Cream 2 was the greatest compared to the other formulations, which significantly increased the driving force of caffeine to partition into the SC (Wiechers et al., 2004:177). The hydrophilic gel showed the highest concentration of caffeine in the ED layer of the skin due to the hydrophilic compounds formulated in the Gel, which showed greater ability to partition into the aqueous dermis and viable epidermis (Imai et al., 2013:372). Cream 2 had the lowest calculated SDG value compared to that of the Gel and Cream 1. The smaller the delivery gap, the greater the delivery of the API should be into the skin (Wiechers, 2010). Considering this, it was expected that Cream 2 would deliver greater amounts of caffeine into the skin than the more hydrophilic formulations. Cream 2, which showed the lowest calculated SDG value delivered the highest amount of caffeine into the SCE during the diffusion studies. The calculated SDG values therefore are consistent with the concentration of caffeine in the SCE (the lowest SDG value produced the highest concentration of API in the SCE). However, no correlations were found between the calculated SDG values and ED delivery or the flux of caffeine. The final conclusion for this study is that the SDG theory proved to be effective and trustworthy regarding the delivery of caffeine into the SC. / MSc (Pharmaceutics), North-West University, Potchefstroom Campus, 2014

Caffeine is frequently used in cosmetics due to its well-characterised skin permeation properties and is widely incorporated in cosmetic-related products intended for skin (Samah & Heard, 2013:631). Despite its polar characteristics (Dias et al., 1999:41), caffeine is an important biologically and cosmetically active compound (Herman & Herman, 2012:13). This active pharmaceutical ingredient (API) has a broad range of advantages in the world of cosmetics, including the improvement of microcirculation in the capillaries (Lupi et al., 2007:107), showing anti-cellulite activity in the fatty tissue (Velasco et al., 2008:24), anti-oxidation activity in sunscreens & anti-ageing products (Koo et al., 2007:964) and the stimulation of hair growth (Fisher et al., 2007:27). Caffeine has also shown significant decreases in UV-induced skin tumour multiplicity (Lu et al., 2001:5003, 5008) and has been proven to prevent photo-damaged skin, which includes the formation of wrinkles and histological alterations (Mitani et al., 2007:86). It is therefore clear that the challenge for the dermal delivery of the hydrophilic caffeine is for it to be retained in the specific skin layers (dermal delivery) where it can exert its action, rather than to permeate through the skin and into the hydrophilic systemic circulation (transdermal delivery) (Wiechers et al., 2008:10). In this study the calculated skin delivery gap (SDG) values, and the transdermal and dermal delivery of caffeine from three different semi-solid topical formulations were compared. The SDG theory was developed to evaluate the effectiveness of dermal delivery of API from topical formulations and is known as the ratio between the concentration required to achieve minimum effect relative to the concentration obtained at the target site (JW Solutions, 2011). During this study the principle of the SDG was investigated by using the formulating strategy, Formulating for Efficacy (FFE™), which aims to optimise skin delivery of APIs from different formulations. The SDG was therefore implemented and in vitro transdermal studies were utilised to ultimately prove or disprove the hypothesis of SDG on the prediction of the topical delivery of caffeine. The human skin consists of two distinctive layers namely the epidermis (including the stratum corneum (SC) and viable dermis) and the dermis (Menon, 2002:S3). The main barrier to dermal and transdermal permeation is the outermost layer of the skin, the SC (Fang et al., 2007:343). The difference between the target site for dermal and transdermal delivery of APIs is crucial to be mentioned. Dermal delivery includes the delivery of an API to the skin surface, SC, viable epidermis or dermis, whereas transdermal delivery requires the API to permeate all the way through the various skin layers and into the systemic circulation (Wiechers, 2000:42). Since this study involves the optimisation of the topical delivery of caffeine, the physicochemical properties of this API as well as those of the skin should be considered. As mentioned before, caffeine is a rather polar molecule (Dias et al., 1999:41), whereas the SC (lipophilic) provides the rate-limiting barrier to the percutaneous absorption of polar (hydrophilic) molecules, such as caffeine (Barry, 1983:105). Caffeine was incorporated into three different formulations: a gel and two creams (differing only in the ratio of the primary and secondary emollient). The three topical formulations each had different polarities, where the Gel represented the hydrophilic formulation (more polar than the skin), whereas the first cream, Cream 1 (containing 5% DMI and 9% glycerine), served as the intermediate formulation (similar polarity as the SC), and the second cream, Cream 2 (10% DMI and 4% glycerine), was the formulation less polar (therefore more lipophilic) than the SC. Franz cell type transdermal diffusion studies were performed on the three semi-solid formulations (Gel, Cream 1 and Cream 2). The diffusion studies were conducted over a period of 12 h, followed by the tape stripping of the skin directly after each diffusion study. Caucasian female abdominal skin was obtained with consent from willing donors. Ethical approval for the acquisition and use of the donated skin was granted under reference number NWU-00114-11-A5. The formulations each contained 1% of caffeine as API. The skin used for the diffusion studies was prepared with the use of a Zimmer Dermatome®. The receptor phase of each Franz cell was withdrawn at predetermined time intervals and subsequently analysed with high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) in order to determine the concentration of caffeine that permeated through the skin. Stratum corneum-epidermis (SCE) and epidermis-dermis (ED) samples were prepared and left overnight at a temperature of 4 °C, and they were analysed the following day with the use of HPLC in order to determine the concentration of caffeine that had accumulated in the particular skin layers. The SDG value for each caffeine formulation was calculated and it was compared to the flux and tape stripping results obtained from the diffusion studies. To ultimately prove or disprove the SDG theory, the skin diffusion studies and tape stripping results were used to determine whether any difference occurred in the absorption or penetration of the API from the different formulations into the skin. The formulation with the intermediate polarity (Cream 1) produced the highest transdermal flux of caffeine due to the hydrophilic and lipophilic nature of caffeine and the formulation, respectively. Cream 1 is sufficiently lipophilic to transport caffeine into the SC and at the same time sufficiently hydrophilic (more polar than Cream 2) to cause a greater driving force of caffeine through to the more hydrophilic epidermis, dermis and systemic circulation. The results from the tape stripping yielded that Cream 2 (the more lipophilic formulation) produced the highest concentration of caffeine into the SCE due to the hydrophilic and lipophilic nature of caffeine and the formulation, respectively. The difference in polarity between the formulation and the API in Cream 2 was the greatest compared to the other formulations, which significantly increased the driving force of caffeine to partition into the SC (Wiechers et al., 2004:177). The hydrophilic gel showed the highest concentration of caffeine in the ED layer of the skin due to the hydrophilic compounds formulated in the Gel, which showed greater ability to partition into the aqueous dermis and viable epidermis (Imai et al., 2013:372). Cream 2 had the lowest calculated SDG value compared to that of the Gel and Cream 1. The smaller the delivery gap, the greater the delivery of the API should be into the skin (Wiechers, 2010). Considering this, it was expected that Cream 2 would deliver greater amounts of caffeine into the skin than the more hydrophilic formulations. Cream 2, which showed the lowest calculated SDG value delivered the highest amount of caffeine into the SCE during the diffusion studies. The calculated SDG values therefore are consistent with the concentration of caffeine in the SCE (the lowest SDG value produced the highest concentration of API in the SCE). However, no correlations were found between the calculated SDG values and ED delivery or the flux of caffeine. The final conclusion for this study is that the SDG theory proved to be effective and trustworthy regarding the delivery of caffeine into the SC. / MSc (Pharmaceutics), North-West University, Potchefstroom Campus, 2014

The rise in the popularity of digital communication and social media platforms has increased the speed of information exchange among customers, and enabled them to instantaneously voice their thoughts and opinions about brands. This trend however has created certain challenges for marketers since they could no longer exert the sole control over the identities of their brands. Past research has confirmed that social interaction plays a key role in development of strong relationships among individuals (e.g. Nahapiet and Ghosal, 1998; Lobschat et al., 2013). In branding context, social interactions and the benefits derived from them establish a brand’s social value, and contribute to the formation of solid customer-brand relationships. As an attempt to better capture a brands’ social value, Lobschat et al. (2013) recently introduced the concept of social currency. Their findings reveal the importance of social currency as a key antecedent to several components of brand equity such as perceived quality, brand loyalty, and brand trust. Due to the newness of the social currency construct, however, its relationship with many other key variables of consumer behavior has not been much verified yet. In particular, there has been very little investigation of the potential links between social currency and the two emerging paradigms of experiential and transformational branding. Accordingly, the current study explores the role of brand’s social currency in providing experiential and transformational benefits in the context of cosmetics consumption. It further investigates the roles of brand experience and customer transformation in shaping greater customer attachment towards the brand. To test these relationships, the Structural Equation Modeling (SEM) method is applied. In total, 373 participants took part in this study. Self-administered questionnaires were distributed, and participants were invited to report on their consumption of their favorite cosmetic brands. Findings confirm that the various dimensions of social currency lead to experiential and transformational benefits in different ways. Results further suggest that both experiential and transformational benefits contribute to the enhancement of customer-brand relationships. Theoretical and managerial contributions are discussed.

社群網站因為網友生態的改變越來越蓬勃發展，部落格是社群網站其中一種型式；在女性族群中，大多女性對化妝品的話題都有些許的興趣，也是造成美妝部落格受到很多網友喜愛的原因之一。化妝品品牌有商品置入的配合，希望這些達人只要用分享的角度，最好不要公開和品牌之間的關係，純粹就以自己喜歡使用，或自己渴望嘗試新產品的角度去寫，讓網友們從中相信產品真的是有優勢。本研究依據深度訪談法&內容分析法，全面性的討論美妝達人部落格商品置入,希望由這二種研究方式，可以對美妝部落格的置入過程及其置入對網友的影響有所了解。