The research presented in this thesis under the title ¿Las Fábricas Textiles, En El Centro Y Sur De México De 1835 A 1910. Origen Evolución e Influencia Europea¿ is proposed based on the principle 2.3 that ICOMOS presented for the analysis, conservation and restoration of architectural heritage structures which says that "A full understanding of the structural and material characteristics is required in conservation practice. Information is essential on the structure in its original and earlier states, on the techniques that were used in the construction, on the alterations and their effects, on the phenomena that have occurred, and, finally, on its present state." The main objective of this thesis is to produce support documentation for the analysis, preservation and good intervention of the industrial heritage, specifically the buildings that housed the textile manufacturing processes in Mexico. The study was based on a historical and architectural constructive technique, conducted mainly in ten states of Mexico from 1835, that was when the first building with all the features of a factory appeared, covering 75 years of development, including its higher peak during the era known as the ¿Porfiriato¿, and ending in 1910 when the Mexican Revolution began, when several factories closed their doors. This document also intends to give testimony of the importance of this kind of buildings in order to give them proper value recognition. This type of construction was pioneered by adapting the use of materials and constructive techniques that were implemented in Europe to local conditions, resources and building traditions in Mexico. To obtain information about the origin and evolution of these structures a historical, architectural, typological and constructive analysis was performed based on two major influences: local influences (¿obrajes¿ and ¿haciendas¿) and foreign influences, specifically European (analysis of textile production buildings to identify materials, techniques and typologies of the Industrial Revolution in Manchester England, Catalonia Spain and France). For this reason the study was divided into two major areas: the analysis of the influences (Chapter II) and a medullar second issue which focuses on the analysis of the textile mills in central and southern Mexico (Chapter I, III, IV). Once the data of the mill factories in Mexico was collected it was possible to obtain data on the evolution and growth of each of the sample sets analyzed. Later on a comparison between the two great influences and the constructions of this kind in Mexico is presented to obtain the results of the origin and degree of influence in these buildings (Chapter V). This study was developed based on a documentary research at regional, national and foreign (European) as well as in large part data collection was conducted as field research (in situ) in 32 sampled sets of 136 factories that were included in the inventory. All information collected is grouped into catalog cards contained within the volume of annexes. In the annex part sketches, drawings and contemporary photographs are incorporated. Its development was based on the analysis of specific files, interviews, photography analysis and lithographs of the period. / La investigación que se presenta en esa tesis bajo el título “Las Fábricas Textiles, En El Centro Y Sur De México De 1835 A 1910. Origen Evolución e Influencia Europea” se propone en base al principio 2.3 que ICOMOS presenta para el análisis, conservación y restauración de las estructuras del patrimonio Arquitectónico el cual dice que “La práctica de la conservación requiere un conocimiento exhaustivo de las características de la estructura y los materiales. Es fundamental disponer de información sobre la estructura en su estado original y en sus primeras etapas, las técnicas que se emplearon en la construcción, las alteraciones sufridas y sus efectos, los fenómenos que se han producido y, por último, sobre su estado actual.” El principal objetivo de esta tesis es tener un documento de apoyo y consulta para el análisis, la conservación y buena intervención del patrimonio industrial, específicamente de las edificaciones que albergaron los procesos de producción textil en México. El estudio se desarrolló principalmente con un enfoque histórico, arquitectónico, técnicoconstructivo, en diez estados de la República Mexicana desde 1835 que fue cuando aparece la primera edificación con todas las características de una fábrica, abarcando 75 años de desarrollo, incluyendo el de mayor esplendor durante el Porfiriato y terminando en 1910 cuando comienza la Revolución Mexicana y varios conjuntos cerraron sus puertas. Se pretende también dar un testimonio de la importancia de este género edificatorio para que se le dé el valor correspondiente a estas edificaciones a partir de la comprobación de la originalidad de este generó, ya que fue el género precursor en el uso de materiales y técnicas constructivas llegadas de Europa y su adaptación a las condiciones, recursos y tradiciones constructivas en México. Para obtener los resultados acerca del origen, y evolución de estas edificaciones se realizó un análisis histórico, arquitectónico tipológico y constructivo de las dos grandes influencias: las influencias locales (antecedentes tipológicos obrajes y haciendas debido al reuso de edificaciones y tradición técnica-constructiva) y las influencias extranjeras específicamente las europeas (análisis de edificios de producción textil para identificar materiales, técnicas y tipologías de la llamada Revolución Industrial de Manchester Inglaterra, Cataluña, España y Francia ). Por este motivo el estudio se dividió en dos grandes temas: el análisis de las influencias (Capítulo II) y un segundo tema y medular que se centra en el análisis de las fábricas textiles del centro y sur de México (Capítulo I, III, IV). Teniendo los datos específicos de las fábricas en México se pudieron obtener datos acerca de la evolución y crecimiento de cada uno de los conjuntos analizados. Posteriormente también se presenta una comparativa entre las dos grandes influencias y las edificaciones de este género en México para obtener los resultados del origen y grado de influencia en estas edificaciones (Capítulo V). Este estudio se desarrolló a partir de una investigación documental a nivel regional, nacional y extranjera (europeas), además de que en gran parte para la obtención de datos se realizó una investigación de campo en 32 conjuntos tomados como muestra de las 136 fábricas que se incluyeron en el inventario. Toda la información recabada se vació en fichas de catalogación propuestas incluidas dentro del volumen de anexos. En las fichas se incorporaron esquemas, planos y fotografías actuales. Su elaboración se apoyó en el análisis de archivos específicos, entrevistas, consulta de fotografías y litografías de la época.

Die Befragung „Ist-Stand der OP-Textilienversorgung in deutschen Krankenhäusern“, die eingebettet ist in das Forschungsvorhaben „Evaluierung von OP-Textilien nach hygienischen, ökologischen und ökonomischen Kriterien“, hat zum Ziel, den gegenwärtigen Stand der OP-Textilienversorgung zu erfassen. Für die Befragung, die sowohl web-basiert als auch postalisch im Zeitraum 11/2008 bis 02/2009 durchgeführt worden ist, wurden vorab alle Krankenhäuser und Kliniken in Deutschland kontaktiert, um den jeweiligen Ansprechpartner für die Beschaffung von OP-Textilien zu erhalten. Der Fragebogen gliedert sich in drei Teile: Abschnitt A: OP-Textilien mit den Unterabschnitten Allgemeines, Ausschreibung von OP-Textilien, OP-Mäntel, OP-Abdeckungen, OP-Kit-Packs, Ökonomische Analyse der OP-Textilienversorgung und Ökologische Bewertung der OP-Textilienversorgung; Abschnitt B: Umweltschutz im Krankenhaus und Abschnitt C: Angaben zum Krankenhaus. Zu den zentralen Ergebnissen der Befragung zählen, dass das Kriterium Versorgungssicherheit das wichtigste Kriterium bei der Ausschreibung ist, gefolgt von Zuverlässigkeit und Reinigungsqualität; dass sowohl Einweg-OP-Mäntel als auch -OP-Abdeckungen häufiger angewendet werden als Mehrweg-Textilien; dass der Tragekomfort der Mehrweg-Mäntel als deutlich besser eingestuft wird als der der Einweg-Mäntel. Ein ähnliches Ergebnis zeigt sich bei der Umweltfreundlichkeit von OP-Mänteln und OP-Abdeckungen. Weiterhin zeigte die Untersuchung, dass eine ökonomische Bewertung bisher häufiger vorgenommen wurde als eine ökologische Bewertung. Bei ökonomischen Analysen, die in den meisten Fällen durch ein krankenhausinternes Team durchgeführt wurden, wurden weitestgehend die Anschaffungskosten/ Miet- bzw. Leasingrate als Kriterium herangezogen. Im Rahmen der ökologischen Bewertung sind vor allem Kriterien wie schadstoffarmer Abfall, geringe Umweltbelastung und wenig schädliche Stoffe von Bedeutung. Insgesamt wird der Umweltschutz tendenziell als wichtig eingeschätzt, wobei die am häufigsten vertretenen Umweltschutzmaßnahmen die Beachtung von Umweltkriterien bei der Beschaffung, die/der Umweltbeauftragte/r und die Zertifizierung nach ISO 14001 sind.

Textile composites can be tailored to meet specific thermo-mechanical requirements for structural applications. The focus of this research is on 2x2 biaxial braided composites since they have good stiffness and strength properties. Moreover, they have potentially better impact and fatigue resistance than laminated composites. Along with good properties, they have a reduced manufacturing cost because much of the fabrication can be automated. In order to exploit these benefits, thorough understanding of the effect of various factors on their material behavior is necessary. Obtaining effective mechanical properties is the first order of concern in any structural analysis. This work presents an investigation of the effect of various parameters like braid angle, waviness ratio, stacking sequence and material properties on the effective engineering properties of the 2x2 braids. To achieve this goal, three dimensional finite element micromechanics models were developed first. Extensive parametric studies were conducted for two material systems: 1). Glass (S2) fiber / epoxy (SC-15) matrix and 2). Carbon (AS4) fiber / Vinyl Ester (411-350) matrix. Equivalent laminated materials with angle plies and a resin layer were also analyzed to compare the difference in predictions from the full three dimensional finite element analysis of the 2x2 braided composites. A full three-dimensional stress state exists in braids even for very simple loading. In order to locate the potential damage spots, the stress distributions in both the matrix and the tows were predicted. The effect of braid angle on location and magnitude of peak stresses was determined.

<p>Syftet med uppsatsen är att analysera utlokaliseringen av tekoindustrin i EU15. Man finner svaren i följande frågor: Vilka faktorer bidrar till omflyttning av produktionen till låglöne-länder? Vilka är vinnarna och förlorarna på denna omstrukturering? Hur klarar den Euro-peiska tekoindustrin av dessa utmaningar? Att redogöra för varje EU-land är för omfattan-de därför valdes Sverige och Portugal beroende på att respektive land har en utvecklad och mindre utvecklad ekonomi. Därutöver riktas deras produktion mot olika sektorer av teko-industrin vilket möjliggjorde landsjämförelsen. Största delen av datan har samlats från SourceOECD’s hemsida då den innehåller information som är viktigast for uppsatsen. Re-sultatet visar att när industrin utvecklas och marknaden till slut blir överhettad börjar indu-strilandet att flytta produktionen utomlands, fokuseringen ändras och impörten blir allt vik-tigare. Denna process sker gradvis med hjälp av liberalisering av världshandel och EU ut-ökning.</p> / <p>The purpose of this paper is to analyze the location dynamics of textile and clothing industries in the EU15. Specifically, it seeks to answer the following questions: What are the factors that contribute to the relocation of European production to low-wage countries? Who are hurt by these changes and who gain? How does the European textile and clothing industry cope with these challenges? It is beyond the scope of this paper to analyze the T/C industry of each EU15 member state. Instead, it specifically investigates Sweden and Portugal’s textile and clothing sectors simply because the former represents Europe’s old economy while the latter the most recent one. In addition, each country devotes its production to the different sectors of the industry, hence this cross-country comparison. Majority of the data is gathered from SourceOECD as the webpage contains information of most value to this paper. The result of this study shows that as an industry matures and competition heats up pricing measures, the developed country moves production operations overseas, ends up as a net importer of the good and shifts focus toward other activities. This process takes effect gradually but the liberalisation of world trade and European enlargement are a few contributing factors which helped anchor relocation decisions.</p>

Dieser Beitrag gibt, basierend auf einem BMBF-Verbundvorhaben, Einblicke in die umfassende Bewertung von OPTextilien. Ziel des Vorhabens ist es, Entscheidern in Krankenhäusern Anregungen und Know-how für ihren Berufsalltag und Produzenten von OP-Textilien Impulse für die Gestaltung ihrer Produkte zu geben. Es werden die hygienischen Anforderungen zur Vermeidung nosokomialer Infektionen, die die Schutzwirkung der Textilien garantierenden textiltechnologischen Voraussetzungen sowie die zur Erfüllung der Wirtschaftlichkeit und Umweltfreundlichkeit notwendigen Anforderungen an OP-Textilien dargestellt. Der Beitrag verdeutlicht, dass die Beachtung all dieser Kriterien und deren Zusammenführung für eine bewusste Entscheidung zum Einsatz von OP-Textilien notwendig ist. / This article describes a holistic assessment approach for operating room (OR) textiles, based on a joint research project funded by the German Ministry of Education and Research. The objective of the project is to ease decision processes for decision makers in hospitals and OR textile manufacturers. The hygienic demands for protection against nosocominal infections, the technological requirements to guarantee textiles their protective properties, as well as the bases for an economically and environmentally optimum decision, are discussed. To permit a holistic procurement decision regarding OR textiles, it is necessary to consider all these criteria and their integration, as proposed in this article.

Thèse de doctorat : Sciences économiques : Lille 1 : 2001. / Bibliogr. f. 332-362.

Reproduction de : Thèse doctorat : Informatique : Reims : 2008. / Titre provenant de l'écran titre. Bibliogr. p. 101-106.

The borders of the twenty-first century come in many forms and are performed by an increasing number of actors in a broad variety of places, both within and beyond the territories of nation-states. This thesis sets out a detailed political geography of how borders operate to reconcile the often conflicting demands of open markets and security. Focusing on Ghana, where there is a widespread fear that the inflow of Chinese versions of African prints will lead to the collapse of the local textile industry, the study explores where and when borders are enforced, who performs them and what kinds of borders are enacted in order to maintain and protect the Ghanaian nation and market without compromising the country’s status as a liberal economy. It combines interviews and documentary sources with analysis drawn from border, security and migration studies to explore three sets of spatial strategies that have defined the Ghanaian approach to the perceived threat of Chinese African prints. They are the institution of a single corridor for African print imports, the anti-counterfeiting raids carried out in Ghana’s marketplaces, and the promotion of garments made from locally produced textiles as office wear through the National Friday Wear and Everyday Wear programmes. These strategies stretch, disperse and embody the borders of the state or nation to control trade in ways that resolve the fears of both open flows and closed borders. This thesis thus seeks to show how a geographical analysis can clarify the specificities of how borders now work to control mobility. In doing so, it not only unsettles conventional assumptions about what borders are and where they are supposed to be located, but also the idea that borders primarily are used to constrain the mobility of certain people while facilitating economic flows. Furthermore, this thesis adds to the understanding of the variety of responses to the inflow of Chinese consumer products to the African continent.

Current military-grade rifle body armor technology uses hard ballistic plates positioned on top of flexible materials, such as woven Kevlar® to stop projectiles and absorb the energy of the impact. However, absorbing the impact energy and stopping a rifle projectile comes at a cost to the wearer - mobility. In this thesis, a new concept for personal body armor is proposed - a semi-flexible hybrid body armor. This hybrid armor is comprised of two components that work as a system to effectively balance the flexibility offered by a soft fabric based armor with the protection level of hard plated armor. This work demonstrates techniques used to analyze and design the hybrid armor to be compliant with National Institute of Justice guidelines. In doing so, finite element analysis is used to simulate the effect of a projectile impacting the armor at various locations, angles, and velocities, while design of experiments is used to study the effect of these various impact combinations on the ability of the armor component(s) (including the wearer) to absorb energy. The flexibility and protection offered by the two component armor system is achieved by the use of proven technique and innovative geometry. For the analytical design, the material properties, contact area(s), dwell duration, and energy absorption are all carefully considered. This yields a lightweight but yet effective armor, which is estimated to weigh 36% less than the current military grade hard body armor. Using ANSYS, several simulations were conducted using finite element analysis, including a direct center impact, along with various other impacts to investigate possible weak points in the armor. In doing so, it is determined that only one of these impact locations is indeed a potential weak point. The finite element analysis continues to show that a rifle projectile impacting at an oblique angle reduces the energy transferred to the wearer by about 25% (compared to a direct impact). A design of experiments approach was used to determine the influence of various input parameters, such as projectile impact velocity and impact location. It is shown that the projectile impact velocity contributes 36% to the ability of the wearer to absorb energy, whereas impact velocity contributes only 13% to the energy absorbed by the top armor component. Furthermore, the analysis shows that the impact location is a highly influential factor (with a 69% contribution) in the energy absorption by the top armor component.

Arsenic-based pesticide residues have been detected on Arizona State Museum’s (ASM) Diné (Navajo) textile collection using a handheld portable X-ray (pXRF) spectrometer. The removal of this toxic pesticide from historic textiles in museums and collections is necessary to reduce potential health risks to Native American communities, museum professionals, and visitors to these cultural institutions. A leader in engineering innovative pesticide removal methods, ASM received federal funding support to continue essential research in removing heavy metal pesticides from cultural property. The research objective was divided into three interconnected stages: (1) calibrate the pXRF instrument for arsenic contaminated cotton and wool textiles; (2) engineer a textile conservation aqueous washing treatment to remove arsenic from wool textiles; (3) demonstrate the aqueous washing treatment method on actual Navajo textiles known to have arsenic-based pesticide residues. The calibration process consisted of a dipping method to produce known homogenous arsenic cotton and wool test samples saturated with solutions of 100, 500, 1000, 2500, and 5000 parts per million (ppm). A linear correlation between observed pXRF test readings and formulated arsenic solutions corroborated the instruments range of detection for arsenic on specific textile materials. The calibration confirms that the pXRF is suitable instrument to measure the removal of arsenic from wool textiles. Wool test samples treated with solutions of an arsenic concentration of 1000ppm were used to develop an optimal aqueous washing treatment exploring the effects of time, temperature, agitation, and pH conditions to efficiently remove arsenic while minimizing damage to the structure and properties of the textile. Each conditional effect removed a certain percentage of arsenic, although the most efficient aqueous washing treatment consisted of submerging a wool textile in deionized water at room temperature for ten minutes with the greatest level of agitation within reason to minimize damage the textile. The final stage of the research applied the aqueous washing guidelines formulated from experimental research on three historic ASM Navajo textiles. Two textiles contained low arsenic concentrations (<100ppm), and one tested with a high arsenic concentration (~1000ppm). The aqueous washing treatment resulted in minimal change for low arsenic concentration textiles, and a 96% removal of arsenic on a high arsenic concentration textile. The preliminary success of removing arsenic-based pesticide residues from historic Navajo textiles greatly impacts the future management of historic textile collections, and also raises questions to further refine the research methodology or pursue alternative related research such as engineering a closed circulating arsenic removal system to limit the quantity of toxic water.