Orientador: Omar Ribeiro Thomaz / Dissertação (mestrado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Instituto de Filosofia e Ciencias Humanas / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-12T06:18:42Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Silva_Lucianeda_M.pdf: 2397447 bytes, checksum: 06291cf53022bd6ae929960c11e0aa0f (MD5) Previous issue date: 2008 / Resumo: Partindo da premissa de que o uso dos tecidos constitui-se em forma complexa de comunicação sócio cultural, esta dissertação intenta, por meio da cultura material, refletida no tema tecidos industrializados, levantar evidências teóricas que nos levem a perceber de que maneira os panos podem revelar processos que implicam na construção de identidades das populações africanas. O entendimento dos simbolismos das formas materiais é fundamental para a interpretação das culturas. A percepção do efeito do mundo material nas interações sociais nos leva a captar evidências e entrelinhas de relações e criações, trazendo à tona formas de pertencimento desencadeadas pelos usos específicos dos objetos. Na intersecção da África com contextos transnacionais os tecidos atuam como articuladores das percepções de gênero, geração, etnicidade, filiação política e nacional. A realidade do uso dos têxteis em África é algo peculiar. No vestuário especificamente, o pano que cobre o corpo é também palavra, portador de mensagens sociais. Ao contextualizarmos os tecidos às organizações sociais específicas e compreendê-los dentro de processos de interação, percebemos formas inusitadas de diálogos e embates com as realidades sócio culturais , provando que a criatividade e a mudança são partes constitutivas da tradição e que a cultura material é capaz de proporcionar a criação e a re-criação de papéis sociais. / Abstract: Taking part from the premise that the use of textiles constitutes a complex means of sociocultural communication, this dissertation intends, by means of the cultural material reflected in the theme of industrialized textiles, to bring to light theoretical evidence that helps us understand the way in which these cloths can reveal the processes implicated in the construction of identity of African populations. Understanding of the symbolism of the material forms is fundamental for the interpretation of culture. The perception of the effect of the material world on social interactions pushes us to collect both evident and subtle aspects of relations and creations bringing up ways of belonging unlocked by the specific uses of the objects. In the intersection of Africa and transnational contexts, textiles act as articulators of perceptions of gender, generation, ethnicity and national and political affiliation. The reality of the use of textiles in Africa is something peculiar. Specifically in terms of attire, the cloth that covers the body is also word, carrier of social messages. In contextualizing textiles within specific social organizations and understanding them as part of processes of interaction, we perceive surprising forms of dialogue and clashes with sociocultural realities, demonstrating that creativity and change are constitutive parts of tradition, and that material culture is capable of affording the creation and recreation of social roles. / Mestrado / Mestre em Antropologia Social

Busca optimizar el tiempo de entrega de la tela teñida en las condiciones y especificaciones establecidas por el cliente. Se plantea la hipótesis de que la mejora de procesos de la cadena productiva y de distribución conllevará a obtener un eficiente tiempo de entrega. Para poder realizar estos cambios, se analizó la situación inicial del área y la recopilación de datos los cuales fueron sintetizados y desarrollados considerando parámetros de tiempo de procesamiento, producción inicial, máquinas de producción, etc. Posteriormente se realiza un diagnóstico del sistema donde se aplicará la metodología DBR (Drum-Buffer-Rope) de la “Teoría de Restricciones” (TOC). Esta metodología considera la identificación del cuello de botella, tiempos de protección de la programación y la aplicación de herramientas Lean Manufacturing. Busca reducir costos de producción, optimizar la programación de lotes de tela acabada y controlar los indicadores de producción a fin de que se pueda evitar las penalidades que imponen los clientes por no cumplir la entrega del producto en la fecha pactada. Después de la aplicación de las propuestas, se constata el ahorro obtenido proyectado anualmente. Finalmente se concluye que aplicando correctamente la metodología DBR se logra incrementar en un 13.39% de eficiencia y un ahorro de S/. 25,579 al año; y se recomienda aplicar la TOC en diferentes ámbitos dentro de la gestión empresarial. / Tesis

The aim of this project is to further enable emancipation of Indian craftswomen through the use of an alternative co-design process. As a designer working with textiles and fashion I was interested to explore how I could positively impact the production process of textiles. I spent five weeks in India, with the intent to understand the stakeholders and the project, but mainly focused on the Indian craftswomen’s involvement. The design research has been an iterative process based on qualitative research consisting of interactive partner visits, observations, conversations and workshops. Starting in 2012, IKEA have formed partnerships with social entrepreneurs around the world with the aim to create social change rather than economic wealth, mainly focusing on giving employment to women. In this partnership, IKEA haven’t yet found the ultimate level of artisan’s involvement in the design process that is convenient for both parties. I propose a design process, comprised of tools, that aims to support rural artisans and urban designers when co-creating textile products aimed at a western market.

Designing with non-visual attributes challenges ways of representation. This research explores methods for designing with invisible materiality within the research practice, as well as ways of representation through textiles when designing spaces. Exploring textiles and smells within a space, the research program investigates spatial interactions. This research focuses on designing embodied experiences using tangible materials as expressions of smells. Through the spatial installations and performances Sight of smell, Touch of smell, and Smell, space, and body movement, haptics were explored as one of the methods of interaction with smells through textiles. Through the sense of touch, this research also investigates ways of revealing, activating, and disseminating smells within a space. Smells were purposely added through the methods of dyeing, coating, and printing to the textile materials that did not inherently embody any smells, As a result, tactile surfaces create non-visual expressions of smell. Further ideas of research in this area would explore another perspective of designing with smells in spaces. As an example, by designing textiles being smell absorbers, dividers, and re ectors, could compliment the spatial concepts and deals with the already existing smells in a living environment. In this licentiate thesis thinking through the olfactive dimension to design textiles is not only novel for the textile design eld; but also, its proposal for application in the spatial design is quite unique, and o ers a new dimension for spatial design. / Horizon 2020 MSCA ITN

Demuestra la viabilidad de la aplicación del rediseño en los procesos productivos con el objetivo de aumentar la productividad, permitiendo asegurar una excelente calidad del producto, tiempos de respuesta más cortos y por lo tanto, la minimización de los costos. Los datos relacionados con costos de mano de obra, costo del producto, etc., no están considerados en esta tesis por ser de carácter confidencial y reservado de la Compañía Universal Textil. El aumento de la productividad no se medirá en temas de costos por lo mencionado anteriormente, pero podrá ser evaluado mediante los indicadores de la productividad (eficiencia y la eficacia) de los procesos productivos en el área de acabados. Se ha analizado los problemas existentes en el área utilizando herramientas como diagrama de Ishikawa, diagrama de Pareto, técnicas de grupo nominal, indicadores de eficiencia y eficacia, estudio de tiempos, logrando determinar los procesos productivos que necesitaban un rediseño para lograr el objetivo general propuesto. Los resultados obtenidos determinan de forma real que se ha rediseñado adecuadamente los procesos productivos seleccionados en el área de acabados, mediante las herramientas mencionadas anteriormente; lo cual dio como efecto el aumento de la eficiencia y eficacia, optimización de los procesos, reducción en los tiempos de entrega de los productos hacia los clientes, y por consiguiente, un aumento de la productividad en el área de acabados. / Tesis

This thesis is a study of textile production in the Late Bronze Age, using new evidence uncovered by excavations at Ancient Eleon in Boeotia, Greece. Textile production is a nearly forgotten art. To the Mycenaeans of the Greek Late Bronze Age (ca. 1700-1100 BCE) textiles were nearly a form of currency, and a symbol of power. This thesis begins by examining the Mycenaean administration of textile production, which was systematically controlled by the palatial centres of Greece and Crete. Linear B documents record resources and workers under palatial control, and the amounts of cloth that they were expected to produce. The Mycenaean palace at Thebes was the administrative centre that controlled the region of eastern Boeotia, including sites such as Eleon. No document directly links textile production at Eleon to Thebes, but other Theban tablets and the two sites’ close proximity suggest a similar relationship to other Mycenaean centres and their dependents. Usually, ancient textiles from Greece do not survive in the archaeological record. The only evidence that remains is the Linear B archives and the tools of production. Linear B tablets have not been found at Eleon, but many spindle whorls for yarn production, loom weights for weaving, and other tools indicating the production of textiles have been recovered from the site. This thesis discusses the significance of these objects and attempts to place Eleon in the greater context of the Mycenaean textile industry. / Graduate

M.Tech. / In this research, I examine whether cultural meanings embedded in original sixteenth to eighteenth century Dutch lace and Shweshwe fabric, as examples of colonial forms, are transformed through selected processes. With reference to Dutch lace from Holland, I analyse how the form changes within colonial and post-colonial contexts, but propose that the cultural meanings of the lace remain similar in both contexts. With reference to Shweshwe fabric, I argue that the form stays the same within both colonial and post-colonial contexts, but that its cultural meaning changes as a result of how patterns printed on it are named and identified in a post-colonial context. In this research, I use the term ‘cultural meaning’ to refer to certain signifiers of culture. I propose that factors such as value, class, aspiration, desire and consumption are embedded in or make cultural meaning. My central argument proposes that crocheted doilies, and plastic tablecloths and placemats might be seen as post-colonial versions of Dutch lace. These post-colonial versions of Dutch lace are adopted and adapted by female homemakers in Naledi Ext. 2 to suit certain decorative tastes, values, aspirations and act as markers of class. This adoption and adaptation of the original colonial form, shifts the cultural meanings imbued within it, but not necessarily the associated consumptive meanings. Whilst the primary focus of the theoretical research is Dutch lace and its proposed post-colonial counterparts, I also examine examples of original Shweshwe fabric and how meanings of motifs found on this fabric have been transformed by the modern Mosotho to reflect notions of value and aspiration, whilst the actual motifs appear to be unchanged. In my practical work, I use Dutch lace, crocheted doilies, and plastic tablecloths and placemats, as well as Shweshwe fabric as visual references in the production of large to small scale paintings. In these, I explore how, through painterly alteration and transformation, shifts can occur in the meanings of patterns derived from these culturally-loaded sources.

This work explores the relation between the body and garments by illustrating the cycle of dressing, wearing and undressing in woven images. Based on experimental methods, such as scanning and photographing, images of garments are generated capturing garment details, surface qualities, movement, folds and volume. These demonstrate the constantly changing relation between the body and garments within the cycle of dressing, wearing and undressing. In translating the photographs and scans of the garments into weaves, a shading technique for jacquardweaving is applied that enables a translation of an image of a 3D-garment into a flat weave keeping the 3D qualities present in the picture. Through a gradation of satin weaves, different hues are created in order to define shadows and other surface qualities.  The changing relation between the body and garments is interpreted in different ways including the body’s presence as well as its absence which results in immediate material responses of the garments and demonstrates the various appearances of the body within this relation. This work results in a variety of woven images pointing out the different stages within the cycle of dressing, wearing and undressing. By using the image as a tool, its pictorial value of capturing moments of change and succession is emphasized. With this work, a new perception of bodily shapes in textiles is provided. Instead of imitating the body’s presence in garments through 3D – forms, alternative ways are shown in how to achieve a corporal illusion in flat weaving-constructions.

The governance of the environmental and health problems that follow in the wake of globalised trade is one of the great contemporary challenges. One of these challenges is the management of chemical pollution and associated risks, and one sector facing this challenge is the textile industry, which has complex supply chains spread across continents. At the same time the role of actors on the playing field are changing and market actors are being called on to responsibly manage the issue of chemical risks and associated challenges. However, governance and control are often obstructed due to complexity and considerable knowledge uncertainty. This situation complicates responsibility-taking and makes it difficult to ascribe liabilities to specific actors, as it is not obvious who is responsible for what. This thesis is concerned with the process of how a group of market actors – private and public textile buyers – assume responsibility of chemical risks in their supply chains in a situation that is characterized by uncertainty and complexity. This thesis aims to contribute to an understanding of what happens when market actors are called on to manage the negative side effects of globalisation. The focus is on Swedish textile-buying private and public organisations. The thesis constructs an analytical model based on the key concepts responsible governance, responsibilisation, and responsible supply chain management (RSCM). The thesis explores the barriers, challenges and opportunities that exist for buyers seeking to assume RSCM and whether a process of responsibilisation can be observed in the textile sector. The thesis uses an exploratory approach and interviews, participatory observations and literature studies, as well as case studies to understand the process and to investigate barriers, challenges, opportunities. In summary, the thesis shows that a process of responsibilisation is ongoing on the organisational and sector levels. Further, it is shown that due to the complex structures of the chains, there are more barriers and challenges than opportunities for buyers striving for RSCM. However, it is argued that cooperation, stronger public and private policy, and a reflexive approach could be ways forward towards RSCM and increased responsibilisation in the textile sector. / En av våra samtida stora utmaningar är hanteringen av de miljö- och hälsoproblem som följer i svallvågorna av en globaliserad handel. En av dessa utmaningar rör hanteringen av kemikalierisker. Inom textilbranschen är produktionen kemikalieintensiv och handelsmönstren karakteriseras av komplexa varukedjor som inte sällan sträcker sig över flera kontinenter. Samtidigt pågår en förändring av inblandade aktörers roller, där marknadsaktörer uppmanas att på ett ansvarstagande sätt hantera frågan om kemikalierisker och de utmaningar som hör därtill. Denna process försvåras ofta till följd av ett komplext samhälle präglat av kunskapsbrister. Detta komplicerar ansvarstagande och gör det svårt att hålla specifika aktörer, såsom företag och inköpande organisationer, ansvariga, då det inte är uppenbart vem som är ansvarig för vad. Denna avhandling undersöker hur en grupp marknadsaktörer – privata och offentliga textilinköpare – tar ansvar för kemikalierisker längs med sina varukedjor i en situation som karaktäriseras av osäkerhet och komplexitet. Avhandlingen syftar till att fördjupa förståelsen för vad som händer när marknadsaktörer uppmanas att hantera miljö- och hälsorisker från till exempel kemikalier i textil. Fokus ligger på svenska privata och offentliga textilinköpare, som exempelvis kläd- och textilföretag, offentlig förvaltning och andra inköpande organisationer. I avhandlingen konstrueras en analytisk modell baserad på nyckelbegreppen responsible governance, responsibilisation och responsible supply chain management. Avhandlingen är explorativ och genom intervjuer, deltagande observationer och litteraturstudier samt fallstudier undersöks en potentiell process av ansvarstagande samt de hinder, utmaningar och möjligheter som de inköpande organisationerna möter i sitt arbete med kemikalierisker längs med sina varukedjor. Resultaten belyser en pågående process av ansvarsförfarande på både organisations och sektornsivå. Avhandlingen visar också att på grund av kedjans komplexa struktur så förekommer större hinder och utmaningar än möjligheter för de textilinköpare som strävar efter ansvarstagande. Trots detta pekar resultaten på att samarbete, kraftfullare styrmedel och ett reflexivt tillvägagångssätt skulle kunna vara en väg mot ökat ansvarstagande inom textilsektorn. / Chemicals in textiles: Managing environmental and health risks from products with complex product chains

Realiza un estudio técnico en base a la NFPA 70E, como medida importante para determinar un artículo textil necesario, con el fin de asegurar la integridad del trabajador reduciendo los efectos de los accidentes producidos por arco eléctrico. Adicionalmente, se busca concientizar tanto al personal operativo, supervisores y a la empresa; la relevancia de utilizar correctamente una prenda de protección. / Tesis