Diss.--Wien.

El documento digital no refiere un asesor / Publicación a texto completo no autorizada por el autor / Muestra las posibilidades extremas - los resultados de tomar la medida más arriesgada y la más conservadora - así como todas las posibles consecuencias de las decisiones intermedias, lo cual se ejemplificará mediante el desarrollo de la aplicación práctica en el caso de la empresa de confecciones de trajes de baño Applauzi S.A. Esta aplicación muestra a la Simulación Monte Carlo como herramienta para sugerir a los decisores la mejor alternativa para establecer la cantidad a producir de determinado producto. / Trabajo de suficiencia profesional

In the 1960s and 1970s, American artists Claire Zeisler, Ed Rossbach, and Sheila Hicks helped forge an international art movement that expanded the boundaries of fiber usage and, by extension, the boundaries of art itself. Often with only a loom, hook, or their own hands as tools, they crafted soft sculptures from thread, string, and rope. In contrast to recent formalist and feminist attempts to recover the overlooked genre of Fiber Art, this dissertation explores the ways in which artists employed fiber to register the ethnic and economic tensions of their era. Zeisler, Rossbach, and Hicks borrowed anthropological strategies to research the materials and processes associated with non-Western, Native American, and South American textile histories. Incorporating these principles into their own work, the artists in this project promote such art forms while simultaneously appropriating them as a ground for articulating their own responses to issues of industrialization and globalization. Chapter One contextualizes the dissertation’s three case studies by describing the Fiber Art movement, its contemporary reception, and its relationship to anthropology. Chapter Two highlights Chicagoan Claire Zeisler, who used her personal collection of African, Oceanic, and Native American art as source material for her thread-based sculptures. She therefore promoted diverse cultural traditions while also taking advantage of these art forms to establish her own artistic identity. Ed Rossbach, the subject of Chapter Three, studied international textile traditions as a teacher and theorist at the University of California, Berkeley. He repurposed ancient and foreign techniques using ephemeral, mass-produced materials, thereby challenging the romanticized distinction between the industrial present and preindustrial past. Finally, Chapter Four considers how Sheila Hicks engaged directly with fiber workshops in Mexico, Chile, India, Morocco, and France through travel and collaboration. By assimilating motifs and materials from these experiences into installations that were shown in corporate settings, her art alluded to the complex relationships between workers around the world. In their respective roles as collector, scholar, and traveler, these artists drew from anthropological discourses to provide critical perspective on United States society at a time when global communication and transportation technologies brought cultures into collision. / 2020-02-14T00:00:00Z

This thesis investigates whole-garment weaving as an experimental design and construction method. The majority of the current development and research within the field focuses on production efficiency and the development of weaving techniques. Here, the intention is to connect form, material and making. The aim is to find ways to deconstruct the process of garment making in order to create new knowledge through craft. Within whole-garment weaving, many design processes are dealt with simultaneously, through direct experimentation on the loom. In order to maintain the integrity of the weaving, interferences such as cutting and sewing is limited. The basics of the practical method is that the cloth is woven as a double weave on the loom. For the practical work, the first objective was to find basic parameters for the project, freely experimenting with weave constructions and bindings. As the process developed, more aspects of garment construction were included in the design process. The combination of bindings, floats and elastic is used to create expressive textile as well as dress, so that the textile surfaces influences the silhouette or the drape. The result shows the expressive potential of whole-garment weaving through a series of nine examples, each showcasing different aspects of the method. The focus is on showcasing experimental approaches to simultaneous fashion/textile design interaction.

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No. of bitstreams: 1 SamantaMH_DISSERT.pdf: 5589913 bytes, checksum: 13f8ab4185b2d9b1c9576d1b7fd6d94b (MD5) Previous issue date: 2016-12-01 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / The growing development of telecommunications, especially mobile devices, has intensified related searches the microstrip antennas in recent years since they have unique properties and wide range of applications. The constant demand for lighter and more flexible devices boosted research in wearable technology area where electronics are fully embedded in their fibers. In this context, knitted fabrics have the necessary elasticity to create adaptable and sports parts, enabling high mobility and comfort to its users. The textile antennas are malleable and, therefore, have great utility in applications where rigidity of traditional antennas is considered limiting, as in military use clothing and in the biomedical field. This work aims to study and develop microstrip antennas using knitted fabric based composite fibers, showing the procedures and materials used from the characterization and choice of fabrics to the design, manufacture and testing of the textile antenna. The electrical characterization was carried out using a Vector Network Analyzer (ARV) to obtain the electrical properties (permittivity and tangent losses). Obtaining textile properties (weight, dimensional stability, degree and tensile strength) was made in accordance with the technical standards, using the equipment available at the Department of Textile Engineering at the Federal University of Rio Grande do Norte (UFRN). The antenna has been designed using the transmission line model of Fortran program developed in accordance with the electrical properties of textile substrates. Subsequently the antenna was designed and simulated in HFSS® (High Frequency Structural Simulator), where radiation patterns are obtained, return loss, the Smith chart, current density and gain. The best simulated result was implemented with tissue disposed knitted in a three-layer structure according to the dimensions designed, and then the antenna is tested using a spectrum analyzer, which were collected data that allowed the manufacture of the letter Smith and graph of return loss. The experimental data were compared with the simulated and the results analyzed according to the literature that support this paper / O crescente desenvolvimento das telecomunicações, principalmente a de dispositivos móveis, têm intensificado as pesquisas relacionadas as antenas de microfita nos últimos anos, visto que estas possuem propriedades singulares, bem como vasta gama de aplicações. A constante procura por dispositivos mais leves e flexíveis impulsionou as pesquisas na área de tecnologia vestível, onde componentes eletrônicos são inteiramente embutidos em suas fibras têxteis. Nesse contexto, os tecidos malha possuem a elasticidade necessária para criar peças adaptáveis e esportivas, permitindo alta mobilidade e conforto aos seus usuários. As antenas têxteis são maleáveis e, por essa razão, têm grande utilidade em aplicações onde a rigidez das antenas tradicionais é considerada uma limitação, como em roupas de uso militar e na área biomédica. Este trabalho tem como objetivo estudar e desenvolver antenas de microfita utilizando tecido de malha à base de fibras têxteis compostas, mostrando os procedimentos e materiais utilizados desde a caracterização e escolha dos tecidos até o projeto, confecção e testes da antena têxtil. A caracterização elétrica foi realizada através de um Analisador de Redes Vetorial (ARV) para obtenção das propriedades elétricas (permissividade e tangente de perdas). A obtenção das propriedades têxteis (gramatura, estabilidade dimensional, titulação e resistência a tração) foi feita de acordo com as normas técnicas, utilizando os equipamentos disponíveis no Departamento de Engenharia Têxtil da Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Norte (UFRN). A antena foi dimensionada através do modelo da linha de transmissão em programa desenvolvido na linguagem Fortran de acordo com as propriedades elétricas dos substratos têxteis. Posteriormente a antena foi desenhada e simulada no HFSS® (High Frequency Structural Simulator), onde serão obtidos os diagramas de radiação, perda de retorno, densidade de corrente e ganho. O melhor resultado simulado foi implementado com o tecido de malha disposto numa estrutura de três camadas de acordo com as dimensões projetadas e, em seguida, a antena foi testada através de um analisador de espectro, onde foram coletados dados que permitiram a confecção da carta de Smith e gráfico da perda de retorno. Os dados experimentais foram comparados com os simulados e, os resultados analisados de acordo com a literatura especializada que embasam este trabalho / 2017-07-06

Publicación a texto completo no autorizada por el autor / Diseña un plan de mejora para optimizar los procesos de elaboración de muestras de tela en una empresa del sector textil y confecciones y para ello se realiza un análisis del mapeo de la cadena de valor de los procesos y se utiliza la metodología de la Manufactura Esbelta como herramienta para reducir los desperdicios encontrados y estandarizar los procesos de elaboración de las muestras de tela, logrando mejorar los procesos, disminuir el lead time y mejorar la calidad de las muestras, eliminando los reprocesos. Además se analiza la Pirámide de Maslow relacionada al ámbito laboral para aprovechar el talento humano del personal y satisfacer sus necesidades, creando un clima de trabajo grato en donde el personal mejore su desempeño laboral. / Tesis

This work places itself in the field of textile design, weaving and interactive objects. It explores how the combination of solid and soft materials in a woven structure affect its flexibility and pliability. By integrating solid materials as a weaving material the work aims to propose an alternative context for woven structures, not necessarily becoming fabrics but rather objects that can be interacted with. The design process consisted of series of workshops where woven samples were made on a hand loom, weaving frame and by hand. The result are three woven structures each of which show of different flexibilities attained through the combination of solid and soft materials. The pieces are meant to be interacted with and can be shaped in various ways by folding, stacking or connecting parts of the structure. Combining solid and soft materials with the weaving technique shows the potential of interactive structures and objects which propose multiple functions, and can be developed further into products for interior design or play.

L’objectif principal de notre étude a consisté en la conception et réalisation de fibres et fils conducteurs de nouvelle génération et de transistors fibreux à effet de champ et électrochimiques. Le fil conducteur a été réalisé par la voie « sol-gel » en enduisant les filaments textiles par l’Indium d’oxyde dopé par étain suivie d’un processus de recuit nécessaire pour densifier et cristalliser les grains d’oxydes. Une nouvelle méthode a été développée pour effectuer le recuit à faible température pendant 24 h. La résistivité moyenne obtenue est de 1,45 Ω∙cm après cinq trempages d’enduction et après recuit dans les conditions décrites précédemment. Les transistors fibreux ont été élaborés par transposition de la mise en œuvre des OFETs classiques en utilisant l’oligomère ainsi que le polymère. La mobilité moyenne de charges des transistors fibreux en pentacène varie entre 4×10-4 et 6×10-4 cm2/V∙s. Pour les transistors fibreux à base de polymère, le procédé de « trempage-tirage » par voie liquide est employé pour leur élaboration. Le P3HT RR est choisi comme matériau semi-conducteur. La mobilité moyenne de charges de ces transistors fibreux est d’environ 2,0×10-4 cm2/V∙s. Nous avons également réalisé les transistors fibreux électrochimiques. Les fils textiles sont enduits par la solution PEDOT:PSS afin de réaliser les fils conducteurs. Des transistors fibreux électrochimiques sont réalisés sous deux formes différentes : « croisée » et « ligne parallèle ». Les transistors fibreux électrochimiques de l’une ou l’autre forme présentent des caractéristiques correctes avec comme avantage une faible tension de fonctionnement, ce qui est compatible avec l’utilisation textile. Des circuits électroniques textiles ont également été développés en utilisant les transistors fibreux électrochimiques : circuits numériques (inverseur et « NOR ») intégrés dans un tissu. Un amplificateur a également été réalisé. / The main objective of our study consisted of designing and realization of novel generation conductive fibers and fibrous field-effect and electrochemical transistors. The conductive yarn has been realized by “sol-gel” method by coating the textile filament with Indium Tin Oxide followed by an annealing process in order to densify and crystallize oxide crystals. A new method has been developed to anneal at low temperature for 24 h. The average resistivity obtained is 1.45 Ω•cm after five dips coating and annealing under the conditions described above. The fibrous transistors have been developed by transposition of the fabrication of conventional OFETs by using the oligomer and polymer. The average mobility of charges in pentacène varies between 4×10-4 and 6×10-4 cm2/V∙s. The solution process of "dip-coating" has been used in order to develop fibrous transistor in polymer by using P3HT RR as the semiconductor material. The average mobility of these transistors is about 2.0×10-4 cm2/V∙s. We also realized the fibrous electrochemical transistor. The textile yarns are coated with a solution PEDOT:PSS to achieve the conductivity. Fibrous electrochemical transistors are made in two different forms: “cross” and “parallel line”.  They all correctly present the characteristics with the advantage of a low operating voltage, which is compatible with textile use. Electronic circuits textiles also been developed by using these fibrous electrochemical transistors: digital circuits (inverter and "NOR") embroidered into a fabric. An amplifier has also been realized.

This thesis examines the relationship between textile craft practice and Kolb's Theory of Experiential Learning. The nature of craft practice has been described as 'Intelligent Making'. The aims were to investigate the term 'Intelligent Making' and construct a framework of the learning experience, on which to base the critical context for future textile practice. A review was made of textile craft practice, investigating models of experiential and reflective learning theories. Experiential Learning Theory and 'Intelligent Making' in textile practice were found to be similar, although the main difference was in relation to reflective observation. The textile making process was examined at under-graduate, post graduate and practitioner levels with self-observation, through a reflective journal, based upon my own hat-making process. Reflexivity was used to explicate the embodied knowledge, made visible through materials and methods of making. This research demonstrates that an extended understanding is based on the fact that reflexivity is the methodological approach embedded within textile practice. The critical capacity of textiles was demonstrated through reflective observation, analysis and evaluation. Shared reflection describes the nature of the process and may enable each maker to restructure their own practice. One advantage of this research is the enhancement of a shared language for textile makers and an evolving reflexive textile vocabulary. This investigation results in a newly proposed visualisation of the making process creating an extended framework to previous models, to advance the future critical context of textile practice. Both volumes of this thesis are combined sequentially into the attached file.

abstract: The motivation of this work is based on development of new construction products with strain hardening cementitious composites (SHCC) geared towards sustainable residential applications. The proposed research has three main objectives: automation of existing manufacturing systems for SHCC laminates; multi-level characterization of mechanical properties of fiber, matrix, interface and composites phases using servo-hydraulic and digital image correlation techniques. Structural behavior of these systems were predicted using ductility based design procedures using classical laminate theory and structural mechanics. SHCC sections are made up of thin sections of matrix with Portland cement based binder and fine aggregates impregnating continuous one-dimensional fibers in individual or bundle form or two/three dimensional woven, bonded or knitted textiles. Traditional fiber reinforced concrete (FRC) use random dispersed chopped fibers in the matrix at a low volume fractions, typically 1-2% to avoid to avoid fiber agglomeration and balling. In conventional FRC, fracture localization occurs immediately after the first crack, resulting in only minor improvement in toughness and tensile strength. However in SHCC systems, distribution of cracking throughout the specimen is facilitated by the fiber bridging mechanism. Influence of material properties of yarn, composition, geometry and weave patterns of textile in the behavior of laminated SHCC skin composites were investigated. Contribution of the cementitious matrix in the early age and long-term performance of laminated composites was studied with supplementary cementitious materials such as fly ash, silica fume, and wollastonite. A closed form model with classical laminate theory and ply discount method, coupled with a damage evolution model was utilized to simulate the non-linear tensile response of these composite materials. A constitutive material model developed earlier in the group was utilized to characterize and correlate the behavior of these structural composites under uniaxial tension and flexural loading responses. Development and use of analytical models enables optimal design for application of these materials in structural applications. Another area of immediate focus is the development of new construction products from SHCC laminates such as angles, channels, hat sections, closed sections with optimized cross sections. Sandwich composites with stress skin-cellular core concept were also developed to utilize strength and ductility of fabric reinforced skin in addition to thickness, ductility, and thermal benefits of cellular core materials. The proposed structurally efficient and durable sections promise to compete with wood and light gage steel based sections for lightweight construction and panel application / Dissertation/Thesis / Doctoral Dissertation Civil and Environmental Engineering 2016