A presente pesquisa apresenta um estudo em torno do cross-branding, parceria entre duas ou mais marcas a fim de lançarem um produto e/ou serviço, e da cocriação de coleções no varejo de moda brasileiro. O cross-branding vem sendo bastante utilizado no mercado e é uma das ferramentas de marketing em evidência. O objetivo principal deste trabalho é identificar - a partir de uma discussão em torno do fast-fashion e da moda como resultado da expressão contemporânea - como se dá a estratégia do cross-branding, bem como suas influências no desenvolvimento de coleções. O trabalho é realizado a partir de uma revisão bibliográfica em torno da história da indústria da moda, conceitos em desenvolvimento de produtos, reflexões sobre inovação, cocriação e o varejo atual. Foi possível discutir não só como se dá o cross-branding, como também os reflexos advindos da utilização da estratégia no varejo de moda. Foram realizados estudos de casos das coleções cápsulas das lojas de departamento C&A e Riachuelo, frutos de cross-brandings com marcas e estilistas brasileiros. / This research presents a study about the cross-branding, partnership between two or more brands willing to launch a product and / or service, and the co-creation of collections in brazilian fashion retail. The cross-branding has been often used in the fashion market and is one of the marketing strategies in evidence. The goal is to identify, from a discussion about fast-fashion and fashion as a result of contemporary expression, how is the strategy of cross-branding as well as their influences on the development of fashion collections. The work is done from a literature review about the history of the fashion industry, product development concepts, reflections on innovation, co-creation and nowadays retail. It was possible to discuss how the crossbranding works, as well as the reflections arising from the use of strategy in fashion retail. Case studies of capsule collections of department stores, as Riachuelo and C&A, the result of cross-brandings with Brazilian designers and brands, have been conducted.

A partir de 2004, no Brasil, com autorização do Ministério da Educação, cursos de nível superior voltados para formação do profissional da área de criação em moda passaram a ser amparados nas diretrizes curriculares do campo do design. Desta forma, a recente integração entre elementos do campo do design e elementos do campo da moda proporcionou o surgimento e compartilhamento desta nova subárea, o design de moda, e uma nova categoria profissional foi estabelecida, o designer de moda. A presente pesquisa analisa possíveis relações entre referenciais teóricos do campo do design e do campo da moda a partir da perspectiva do design de moda. Investiga, também, como tais referenciais interagem e são articulados na consolidação de um repertório teórico próprio do design de moda e que outras possíveis relações emergem deste momento de transição e integração de conteúdos, sobretudo no âmbito nacional. Tem como propósito norteador promover o aprofundamento da discussão sobre as confluências e dissonâncias entre os campos de design e de moda intrínsecas ao design de moda, na tentativa de contribuir para a integração entre os campos por meio da articulação de conceitos e conteúdos teóricos. E compreende, por fim, os campos de design e de moda como equivalentes na possibilidade de gerar, reciprocamente, críticas construtivas. / Since 2004, with authorization from the Ministry of Education, higher education courses for training the professional creative field in fashion are now supported in the curriculum guidelines of the design field. Thus, the recent integration between the elements of the design field and elements of the fashion field provided the emergence and sharing of this new sub-area, fashion design, and a new category was established, the fashion designer. This research analyzes possible relations between theoretical frameworks of the design field and the fashion field from the fashion design perspective. It also investigates, as such references interact and are articulated in the consolidation of its own theoretical repertoire of fashion design and other possible relationships emerge from this time of transition and integration of content, especially at the national level. Its purpose is to promote further discussion of the consensus and dissent between design and fashion fields, intrinsic to fashion design in an attempt to contribute to the integration between the fields through the articulation of concepts and theoretical contents. And understand, finally, the design and fashion fields as equivalent in the possibility of generating, conversely, constructive criticism.

O estudo consiste em analisar as diferenças do supply chain de moda entre as coleções tradicionais e o fast fashion, identificando os desafios e ações empreendidas pelas empresas têxteis que atuam no início da cadeia produtiva de moda. Tomando como base a literatura sobre as gestões da cadeia produtiva de moda e as mudanças ocorridas no mercado, identificou-se a contradição no tempo de aprovisionamento no que diz respeito às etapas de produção entre a moda tradicional e o fast fashion, termo em inglês, traduzido como moda rápida. As análises e comparações entre as gestões da cadeia produtiva de moda compreendem como esses dois sistemas atuam no mercado. Por um lado, existem as empresas de moda programada tradicional que pelo conceito e o tempo utilizado para o desenvolvimento de suas coleções funcionam como uma forma de imposição do consumo de seus produtos, já o modelo fast fashion pode ser interpretado como uma resposta do mercado consumidor. Com isso, a necessidade de diminuir o time to market para reduzir o risco exige encontrar soluções produtivas adequadas. A partir de uma revisão de literatura e de uma pesquisa exploratória, foi possível identificar como o setor têxtil, que atua no início da cadeia produtiva de moda, corresponde às diferenças de supply chain entre as coleções tradicionais e o fast fashion / This study consists on analyzing the supply chain differences between the traditional collections and the fast fashion, identifying the challenges and the undertaken actions by textile companies that act in the beginning of fashion productive chain. Taking as a base the literature on fashion productive chain management and the market changes, the contradiction on provision time was identified about the production levels between the traditional fashion and the fast fashion. The analysis and comparisons between fashion productive chain management comprehend on how theses both methods act on market. On the one hand there are the scheduled traditional fashion companies that through conception and the used time to develop their collection, it works as imposition consumption for their products, whereas the fast fashion way can be seen as the customer reply. Therewith, there is a need to reduce the time to market to decrease the risk new productive solutions must be found. From a literature review and a deep research, it was possible to identify how the textile sector, which operates at the beginning of the production chain fashion, corresponds to the supply chain differences between traditional collections and the fast fashion

O presente trabalho investiga aspectos históricos acerca da estética e da funcionalidade da Ilustração de Moda. A partir da hipótese norteadora de que a Ilustração de Moda possui engrenagens cujos papéis se modificam através do tempo no processo de adaptação ao mercado, este trabalho analisa tal fenômeno mediante, predominantemente, a revisão e interpretação de obras de autores que se debruçaram sobre a historiografia da moda e da ilustração de moda ocidental, associados à análise de trabalhos no segmento em questão. A pesquisa é baseada em metodologia qualitativa de coleta de dados e interpretação de conteúdo artístico, referenciada pelo trabalho de Rui de Oliveira. São referenciados, também, teóricos de áreas correlatas como João Braga, Daniela Calanca, Paula Sibila, Ernest Gombrich, Mônica Moura e Dijon de Moraes, a fim de construir, de forma mais coesa, os assuntos abordados em textos que relacionam áreas como História da Moda, Comunicação Social, História da Arte, Design e Desenho de Moda. Sob essas diretrizes, é construída uma narrativa cronológica contextualizada, que serve como instrumento para analisar e compreender os fatores que constituem o mercado de moda em diferentes épocas e que adaptam e ressignificam uma das técnicas mais antigas de comunicação de moda, mantidas até os dias atuais / The present work investigates historical aspects of the aesthetics and functionality of the theoretical field of Fashion Illustration. Based on the guiding hypothesis that the Fashion Illustration has gears whose roles change over time in the process of adaptation to the market, this work analyzes this phenomenon, mainly by reviewing and interpreting the work of authors who have studied the historiography of fashion and Western fashion illustration, associated with the analysis of works in the segment of fashion illustration. The research is based on a qualitative methodology of data collection and interpretation of artistic content, referenced by the work of Rui de Oliveira. Theorists such as João Braga, Daniela Calanca, Paula Sibila, Ernest Gombrich, Mônica Moura, and Dijon de Moraes are referred in order to build the subjects discussed in texts of related areas as Fashion History, Social Communication, History of Art, Design and Fashion Design. Under these guidelines, a contextualized chronological narrative is constructed that serves as an instrument to analyze and understand the factors that constitute the fashion market in different times that adapt and re-signify one of the oldest techniques of fashion communication maintained until the present day

Este estudo analisa os aspectos do design de lojas de varejo de moda por meio de variáveis tangíveis presentes nos espaços da rede de varejo do vestuário do modelo fast fashion. O modelo fast fashion vem consolidando sua presença no mercado de vestuário de moda por meio de um modelo inovador no ciclo de desenvolvimento de produtos, no abastecimento das lojas e na própria distribuição por meio de lojas próprias que atendem o modelo. A questão do estudo investigou se as características do modelo se refletem no design das lojas fast fashion contribuindo para a comunicação e o modelo de oferecimento dos produtos. Na pesquisa de campo em lojas fast fashion buscou-se por meio do modelo de investigação qualitativa utilizar o método de observação direta em quatro cadeias de lojas em shopping centers e lojas em rua e sua correspondência com as características da literatura relacionada ao modelo fast fashion. Alguns resultados obtidos nesta pesquisa propõem, por exemplo, a comunicação da vitrina em conjunto com os manequins de acesso a loja comunicam lançamentos de produtos de moda para os consumidores e deste modo demonstram correspondência com fast fashion. Neste sentido, as variáveis do design presentes nas lojas de varejo, importantes elementos do ambiente que atuam individualmente ou em conjunto e assim oferecem funcionalidade para este modelo fast fashion. Este estudo aponta para abertura de novas oportunidades de investigação do design de lojas nos segmentos de varejo de moda, por meio dos levantamentos obtidos nesta pesquisa / This study analyzes the design aspects of fashion retail stores through tangible variables present in the garment retail chain of fast fashion model. The fast fashion model has consolidated its presence in the fashion apparel market through an innovative model in the product development cycle, in the supply of stores and own distribution through stores that meet the model. The study question investigated whether the characteristics of the model are reflected in the design of fast fashion stores contributing to communication and the model of offering the products. In field research in fast fashion stores sought by means of qualitative research model using the method of direct observation in four chain stores in shopping malls and stores in the street and your correspondence with the characteristics of the literature related to the fast fashion model. Some results obtained in this research, propose, for example, the communication from the showcase in conjunction with the dummies store, access communicate product sets to consumers and thus demonstrate correspondence with fast fashion. In this sense, the design variables present in retail stores, important elements of the environment that act individually or together and thus offer functionality for this fast fashion model. This study points to the opening of new opportunities for research on store design in fashion retail segments by means of surveys obtained in this research

<p>Abstract</p><p>Date: 2008 May 28</p><p>Course: Master Thesis</p><p>Authors: Ka Yu Seto and Olena Zastezhko</p><p>Tutor: Carl Thunman</p><p>Title: How can the Japanese specialty retailers of private-label apparel (SPAs) go into the German fast fashion market?</p><p>Introduction:</p><p>Japan is one of the largest and most sophisticated clothing markets in the world, and its fashion designs and products quality enjoy high reputation from world-wide. Because of keen competition in the domestic market, fashion retail chains find it necessary to search for new markets Asia’s potential has been already extensively exploited for decades. Thus, in order to further expand, Europe should be considered for the next step in nternationalization. Germany seems to be a good choice, since it has huge population, large market value and is located in the centre of Europe. There has been a number of studies published about foreign retailers entering Japan, however, only few researches consider moves of the Japanese retailers to other countries, to Asia in particular. In order to fill in the information gap the current study was conducted. It focuses on investigating the German menswear and womenswear markets from the perspective of potential for the Japanese SPAs.</p><p>Purpose:</p><p>The purpose of the thesis is to describe German apparel market and to examine how the Japanese SPAs can enter it. The research is limited to the German menswear and womenswear markets, which target men and women aged 15 and above. Finally, the research is aimed at providing recommendations for the Japanese SPAs regarding planning marketing strategies when entering the German market.</p><p>Method:</p><p>Primary: The primary data was received through conducting three semi-structured interviews with experts in fashion industry in Germany, who can give professional overview of the German fashion market. The aim was to obtain the latest information related to the fashion market conditions, consumers’ expectations and their purchasing habits, as well as factors that are not covered by the previous studies, but are crucial for the current research.</p><p>Secondary: The secondary data was collected mostly via Internet; however a number of printed publications was used as well. Market reports by such marketing agencies as CBI, Datamonitor, ACNielson and Euromonitor became the basis for the research. Other scientific sources were retrieved through electronic databases such as ABI/ Inform, EBSCO, Emerald, ELIN@Mälardalen, Google and Google Scholar. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management and books Fashion Marketing: Contemporary Issues (Hines & Bruce, 2007) and Fashion Design (Jones, 2005) provided latest insights into current trends in fashion marketing, as well as introduced main concepts of the studied area.</p><p>Theoretical Model:</p><p>Existing studies contribute a lot to identifying crucial variables concerning fashion marketing. However, there is no available model that can fulfill the purpose of the current research. That is why a new model was developed in order to achieve the aim of the thesis. Since the purpose is to describe the German fast fashion market four factors influencing it were identified. They are categorized as follows: Market Environment in Germany, Competition, Activities in the Market and German Customers. Within each factor a set of variables was distinguished and analyzed. Market Environment in Germany factor covers macro and micro environments; Competition factor is analyzed in terms of positioning and branding of the major competitors; Activities in the Market factor discusses 4Ps and customer service; and German Customers factor reveals consumer behavior aspects as well as attitudes of Germans to branding and country of origin. German sizes are also covered within this factor. The created model helps identify market situaton the Japanese SPAs will face when entering the German fast fashion market.</p><p>Analysis and Conclusion:</p><p>The study revealed that though the German apparel market is highly competitive it is also an attractive one for apparel companies and there is a place for newcomers who can differentiate themselves from the majority. Since there exist some gaps in the market supply in terms of quality/price and fashion/quality ratios, those Japanese SPAs who will be able to cover these gaps can have good potential in the German fast fashion market. This means that those Japanese SPAs who can supply apparel of good quality, with fashionable designs, but at the same time at competitive prices can find favorable positions in the market. In addition, as new comers the Japanese SPAs need to ensure that they can satisfy quick response requirement which is crucial to the fast fashion industry, and this can become a challenge. Also, the research revealed that the German customers are brand conscious, thus it is important for the Japanese SPAs to build brand awareness and brand reputation among Germans. Moreover, the Japanese SPAs need to identify target segments which they can serve at their best. A set of recommendations provided in the thesis regarding marketing strategies shows how the German market conditions can be used for creating advantages for the Japanese SPAs.</p>

Abstract Date: 2008 May 28 Course: Master Thesis Authors: Ka Yu Seto and Olena Zastezhko Tutor: Carl Thunman Title: How can the Japanese specialty retailers of private-label apparel (SPAs) go into the German fast fashion market? Introduction: Japan is one of the largest and most sophisticated clothing markets in the world, and its fashion designs and products quality enjoy high reputation from world-wide. Because of keen competition in the domestic market, fashion retail chains find it necessary to search for new markets Asia’s potential has been already extensively exploited for decades. Thus, in order to further expand, Europe should be considered for the next step in nternationalization. Germany seems to be a good choice, since it has huge population, large market value and is located in the centre of Europe. There has been a number of studies published about foreign retailers entering Japan, however, only few researches consider moves of the Japanese retailers to other countries, to Asia in particular. In order to fill in the information gap the current study was conducted. It focuses on investigating the German menswear and womenswear markets from the perspective of potential for the Japanese SPAs. Purpose: The purpose of the thesis is to describe German apparel market and to examine how the Japanese SPAs can enter it. The research is limited to the German menswear and womenswear markets, which target men and women aged 15 and above. Finally, the research is aimed at providing recommendations for the Japanese SPAs regarding planning marketing strategies when entering the German market. Method: Primary: The primary data was received through conducting three semi-structured interviews with experts in fashion industry in Germany, who can give professional overview of the German fashion market. The aim was to obtain the latest information related to the fashion market conditions, consumers’ expectations and their purchasing habits, as well as factors that are not covered by the previous studies, but are crucial for the current research. Secondary: The secondary data was collected mostly via Internet; however a number of printed publications was used as well. Market reports by such marketing agencies as CBI, Datamonitor, ACNielson and Euromonitor became the basis for the research. Other scientific sources were retrieved through electronic databases such as ABI/ Inform, EBSCO, Emerald, ELIN@Mälardalen, Google and Google Scholar. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management and books Fashion Marketing: Contemporary Issues (Hines &amp; Bruce, 2007) and Fashion Design (Jones, 2005) provided latest insights into current trends in fashion marketing, as well as introduced main concepts of the studied area. Theoretical Model: Existing studies contribute a lot to identifying crucial variables concerning fashion marketing. However, there is no available model that can fulfill the purpose of the current research. That is why a new model was developed in order to achieve the aim of the thesis. Since the purpose is to describe the German fast fashion market four factors influencing it were identified. They are categorized as follows: Market Environment in Germany, Competition, Activities in the Market and German Customers. Within each factor a set of variables was distinguished and analyzed. Market Environment in Germany factor covers macro and micro environments; Competition factor is analyzed in terms of positioning and branding of the major competitors; Activities in the Market factor discusses 4Ps and customer service; and German Customers factor reveals consumer behavior aspects as well as attitudes of Germans to branding and country of origin. German sizes are also covered within this factor. The created model helps identify market situaton the Japanese SPAs will face when entering the German fast fashion market. Analysis and Conclusion: The study revealed that though the German apparel market is highly competitive it is also an attractive one for apparel companies and there is a place for newcomers who can differentiate themselves from the majority. Since there exist some gaps in the market supply in terms of quality/price and fashion/quality ratios, those Japanese SPAs who will be able to cover these gaps can have good potential in the German fast fashion market. This means that those Japanese SPAs who can supply apparel of good quality, with fashionable designs, but at the same time at competitive prices can find favorable positions in the market. In addition, as new comers the Japanese SPAs need to ensure that they can satisfy quick response requirement which is crucial to the fast fashion industry, and this can become a challenge. Also, the research revealed that the German customers are brand conscious, thus it is important for the Japanese SPAs to build brand awareness and brand reputation among Germans. Moreover, the Japanese SPAs need to identify target segments which they can serve at their best. A set of recommendations provided in the thesis regarding marketing strategies shows how the German market conditions can be used for creating advantages for the Japanese SPAs.

The purpose of the thesis is to reveal and address macro-environmental sustainability problems in thefashion industry. A qualitative research approach was used to reach the purpose. Throughout the empirics, theexisting literature was studied, and two case studies were carried out. The one about Hennes and Mauritz isbased on secondary data by using its sustainability report, and in the other case, primary data were obtainedabout Ekovaruhuset, an ecological fashion company, through a face-to-face interview. It was found that thefashion industry has a significant environmental impact and often violates the fair labour practices throughout itssupply chain. The root causes of the unsustainable operation are the labour-intensity, water and chemicalintensity throughout the fashion supply chain, and the lack of political and legal regulations in the producingcountries. These problems can be addressed by careful sourcing, and higher control over the cotton growers,fabric mills and suppliers. In addition, using and developing eco-friendly raw materials, like organic cotton, andfabrics reduce the environmental impact. It can be concluded that there is much room for sustainabledevelopment in the fashion industry, but there are corporate social and environmental responsibility endeavoursfrom both small and big companies.

Fashion is one of the most profitable industry in the world, Sweden has been seen as a fashionable nation, thanks to the big fashion brands that consumed by most of the Swedish of all segment. Scandinavian fashionbrands which is analyzed on this thesis is H&amp;M, Kappahl, Ginatricot, Dressman, and JackJones. All of these fashionbrands are analyzed based on their marketing strategy, then compared to the result from the quitionaires about these brands. From the questionaires, it can be found which kind of marketing strategy profitable for their segment. The result of this research show that most of the company know much about their customers, they do the right thing especially with the product design. Sometime the companies do the unuseful marketing that's wasting money because the customers don't react on the desirable behaviour

The changing dynamics of the fashion retailing industry has progressed and become a global multibillion industry, (Solomon &amp; Rabolt, 2007). It has put a lot of pressure on the fast fashion retailers were key strategies in order to maintain a strong position in market, must be established, (Doyle, Moore &amp; Morgan, 2006). As the increasing number of new fashion retailing companies have emerged and established, the fashion segment has become a market leader, (Mehrjoo &amp; Pasek, 2014). Fashion consumers expect and thrive on continuous change were new fashion products always have to be available in store on an everyday basis, (Bruce &amp; Daly, 2006). Most companies aim to ensure the speed to market as a competitive strategy by offering rapidly fashion trends. Fast fashion companies need to deliver their product offer to the customers before their competitors do and the choice of supply chain strategy gets critical, (Porter 1996). Gadde and Håkansson (2009), argue that a company's purchase process is the answer of this matter. The importance of the purchase process has therefore become of great focus. The issue of defining what it is that actually makes the difference when working with the purchase process is complex, with several aspects to take in consideration. The aim of this report is to present the most significant activities within the purchase process that makes a company competitive in the market. As buyers carry the main responsibility over their department groups it became essential to answer the research questions from their perspective. The buyers’ sees a general problematic in how to influence the purchase chain in a larger scale. However, they claim that the most essential factors, that makes a difference for a company to be successful within the fast fashion industry was concluded to be: short-term and long-term solutions within the daily work primary within the team. The buyers’ solutions are presented in the form of clear goals within the process work, and tools for how to reach the set goals. There must be a clarity through the organization which generates an 80/20 mindset were all actors are focusing on what it is that makes the difference. Communication is a key tool one should work with further on, both at an internal and an external level and as it creates the right conditions for the workflow in a more efficient way. This is for everyone to share a clearer understanding of and be able to work effectively towards the rapid changes that are performed over the season. Lastly, the buyers appear to have an ambiguous picture of how the fashion industry will progress. They are proud of how far Sweden has come with its identity in the fashion industry and the prominent clothing brands. But on the other hand, they are concerned for the how much further the fashion industry can be pushed, taking the environmental and sustainable viewpoint in consideration.