Thesis deals with the topic of brand management, specifically brand management of the product line extension. The selected brand for the practical application of the process of brand management is Maybelline New York, consumer cosmetic brand belonging to the company's portfolio of L'Oréal. The goal is to design and describe the process of management of this selected brand for the extension in the fragrance market. The practical part includes desk research (analysis of contemporary brand management of Maybelline New York and fragrance market analysis) and primary research (focusing on the behavior of target group on the fragrance market and their knowledge and attitudes to this brand. Based on the information gathered by the research the appropriateness of brand extensions on fragrance market is determined and a model for the brand management on this market is designed and described, including setting the brand vision, brand identity, positioning and communication strategy.

Synthetic fragrances are artificially synthetised organic compounds which are used as fragrant substances in assorted personal care products, perfumes, cosmetics, soaps, detergents, cleansing articles, etc. So-called musk compounds creates significant group of synthetic fragrances which are distinguished by specific fragrance reminiscent of musk. Recently great attention is devoted to musk compounds because they were proved in different units of environment. The aim of diploma thesis was determination of selected linear musk compounds (arocet, aroflorone, linalool 925, lilial, isoamyl salicylate) in real samples of waste water in the influent and effluent from the sewage treatment plant Brno-Modřice. At first optimization of selected method was performed and then this method was used for own determination. Analytes were extracted by solid phase microextraction (SPME) from sample. Method of gas chromatography with mass spectrometry was used for own analysis. The results were used for evaluation of efficiency of removing linear musk compounds from waste water.

The American public is bombarded with chemically fragranced products every day, typically in combination with each other. These products can include cosmetics, perfumes, detergents, air fresheners, soaps, and deodorants. Contained in these fragranced products are chemicals that can be harmful to child health and development. Many articles have been published examining the chemicals found in fragranced products and the effects that these chemicals can have on the human body. This integrated literature review examines empirical evidence related to the health and safety of particular chemicals used in these products. Nurses need to be aware of the actual and potential harms from the chemicals used in the self-regulating cosmetic industry and can advocate for public policies that promote a safer environment, therefore protecting the health and wellbeing of children.

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Architecture often references the five senses through conveying moments and experiences that someone could have in a specific setting. The purpose of this thesis is to dive deeper into how the senses can be engaged and how they relate to the concept of wayfinding. This thesis explores how engaging the senses can assist in a person's physical and mental wayfinding, specifically through touch, sight, and smell. The building typology best suited to experiment with this was a community center because it is used by a myriad of different people of varying ages, height, mobility, etc. Multiple studies were conducted that centered around different textures, floral fragrances, and light quality. This is a story that takes you on a journey through a community center and narrates how the different senses are engaged, specifically with regards to wayfinding. In three different chapters you will feel the touch of a wall, follow a path of different fragrances, and see through different perspectives. / Master of Architecture / Architecture often references the five senses through conveying moments and experiences that someone could have in a specific setting. The purpose of this thesis is to dive deeper into how the senses can be engaged and how they relate to the concept of wayfinding. This thesis explores how engaging the senses can assist in a person's physical and mental wayfinding, specifically through touch, sight, and smell. The setting of this thesis is a community center because community centers are used by many different people of varying ages, height, mobility, etc. Multiple studies were conducted that centered around different textures, floral fragrances, and light quality. This is a story that takes you on a journey through a community center and narrates how the different senses are engaged, specifically with regards to wayfinding. In three different chapters you will feel the touch of a wall, follow a path of different fragrances, and see through different perspectives.

Les nanoparticules (NPs) organiques représentent un outil majeur d'innovation en dermatologie. L'objectif de cette thèse a été de développer et d'optimiser des procédés d'encapsulation d'un mélange de molécules odorantes appelé fragrance mix I (FMI) dans des nanoparticules (NPs) de différentes natures: NPs polymères (poly-ε-caprolactone, PCL), ou NPs lipidiques solides (SLNs) (à base de vaseline, beurre de karité, cire de candelilla, triglycérides C10-18, ou palmitate de cétyle). Ces nouveaux systèmes ont alors été évalués pour la vectorisation de ce mélange à travers un explant de peau de porc, afin de modéliser la distribution des molécules composant le FMI dans les différentes assises cutanées. En parallèle, elles ont également été appliquées en tant que promoteurs de solubilisation du FMI pour le développement d'un nouveau test de diagnostic in vitro de l'allergie aux parfums. Nos résultats montrent que: (i) les NPs polymères, principalement anioniques, sont les plus adaptées pour promouvoir la pénétration transépidermique du FMI. Au contraire, les SLNs s'agglomèrent dans le stratum corneum, conduisant à une accumulation du FMI dans cette assise ; (ii) qu'au-delà du type de vecteur utilisé, la pénétration des molécules du FMI dans les couches les plus profondes de la peau dépend de leur coefficient de partage intrinsèque ; (iii) que les nanoparticules de PCL augmentent significativement la solubilisation du FMI dans les milieux de culture conventionnels et permettent ainsi une réactivation robuste des lymphocytes T spécifiques circulant chez des patients présentant une allergie au parfums. L'ensemble de ces résultats confirme donc tout le potentiel des NPs organiques pour le développement de futures stratégies de délivrance ciblée de plusieurs actifs dans les différents compartiments cutanés. Ces nouveaux vecteurs offrent en outre une alternative prometteuse pour améliorer le diagnostic de l'eczéma de contact induit par les parfums et plus généralement par des allergènes hydrophobes / The aim of this work was to develop and optimize methods for fragrance mix I (FMI) encapsulation into nanoparticles (NPs) of two types of nanoparticles (NPs) : polymeric NPs (poly-ε-caprolactone, PCL) and solid lipid NPs (SLNs) (prepared with petrolatum, shea butter, candelilla wax, C10-18 triglycerides, or cetyl palmitate). Then, these new NPss were evaluated as vectors through a pig skin to analyze the distribution of the FMI molecules in the different skin layers. In parallel, NPs have also been applied as solubilizers for the development of a new in vitro test for the diagnosis of fragrance allergy. Our results show that (i) NPs polymers, mainly anionic NPs, are the most suitable vectors to promote trans-epidermal penetration of fragrance. On the contrary, SLNs were found in the stratum corneum, leading to an accumulation of fragrance in this layer; (ii) whatever the type of NPs, the penetration of the FMI molecules in the deeper layers of the skin depends on their intrinsic partition coefficient; (iii) PCL-NPs significantly increase the FMI solubilization in conventional culture media and, allowing a robust reactivation of circulating specific T cells in patients with allergy to fragrances. All of these results confirm the potential of organic NPs for the development of future strategies (for the skin delivery of several actives in the different skin layers). These new vectors further offer a promising alternative to improve the diagnosis of contact dermatitis induced by fragrances and more generally by hydrophobic allergens

Benzaldehyde (BZA), a biologically derived high-value molecule used in the flavour and fragrance industry for its characteristic almond-like aroma, has also found use in nutraceutical, pharmaceutical, cosmetics, agrochemical, and dye applications. Although, nature-identical BZA is most commonly produced by chemical synthesis, biologically derived BZA, whether by plant material extraction or via microbial biocatalysts, commands much higher prices. The bioproduction of high value molecules has often been characterized by low titers as results of substrate and product inhibition. The current work examined a variety of process strategies and the implementation of a solid-liquid bioreactor partitioning system with continuous integrated pervaporation to enhance the bioproduction of BZA using Pichia pastoris. Previous work on two-phase partitioning bioreactors (TPPBs) for the biotransformation of BZA using Pichia pastoris has had limitations due to long fermentation times and unutilized substrate in the immiscible polymer phase, contributing to complications for product purification. To reduce fermentation times, a mixed methanol/glycerol feeding strategy was employed and reduced the time required for high-density fermentation by 3.5 fold over previous studies. Additionally, because BZA and not the substrate benzyl alcohol (BA) had been found to be significantly inhibitory to the biotransformation reaction, a polymer selection strategy based on the ratio of partition coefficients (PCs) for the two target molecules was implemented. Using the polymer Kraton D1102K, with a PC ratio of 14.9 (BZA:BA), generated a 3.4 fold increase in BZA produced (14.4 g vs. 4.2 g) relative to single phase operation at more than double the volumetric productivity (97 mg L-1 h-1 vs. 41 mg L-1 h-1). This work also confirmed that the solute(s) of interest were taken up by polymers via absorption, not adsorption. BZA and BA cell growth inhibition experiments showed that these compounds are toxic to cells and it was their accumulation rather than low enzyme levels or energy (ATP) depletion that caused a reduction in the biotransformation rate. For this reason, the final strategy employed to enhance the bioproduction of benzaldehyde involved in situ product removal by pervaporation using polymer (Hytrel 3078) fabricated into tubing by DuPont, Canada. This aspect was initiated by first characterizing the custom-fabricated tubing in terms BZA and BA fluxes. The tubing was then integrated into an in situ pervaporation biotransformation and was shown to be effective at continuous product separation, using 87.4% less polymer by mass in comparison to polymer beads in conventional TPPB operation, and improved overall volumetric productivity by 214% (245.9 mg L-1 h-1 vs. 115.0 mg L-1 h-1) over previous work producing BZA. / Thesis (Master, Chemical Engineering) -- Queen's University, 2013-09-28 17:41:45.458

The aim of this thesis is operation and marketing strategy evaluation of previous fragrance online shop run by VEDICI, s.r.o. and to propose a marketing strategy for a new planned electronic shop within this business line based on analyses done. This proposal is built on comprehensive theoretical overview in terms of strategic and online marketing, as well as external and internal situational analysis, companywide and marketing SMART goals, and process of segmentation, targeting, and positioning. Outcomes are then applied during the strategy setting of marketing mix (i.e. product, price, promotion and placement). At the end the thesis includes an evaluation of proposed marketing strategy together with couple of recommendations for the future development.

It was long believed that humans were unable to utilise the odours of conspecifics to co-ordinate social interactions in ways in which other species appear to be capable. However, a surge in interest in human social olfaction has recently challenged this view. The numerous studies conducted in this area have found that multiple state and trait related cues can be detected in body odour. Furthermore, many studies indicate that women are often more sensitive to these cues, and that sensitivity can be associated with fertility, findings that are consistent with sex differences in reproductive effort and benefits of choosiness in mate-searching. Since previous studies in this area have usually addressed the potential for humans to use olfactory communication in a comparable manner to other mammals, they typically involve collection and assessment of ‘natural’ odour. That is, they explicitly exclude the possibility of ‘contamination’ of odour samples by artificial fragrances. However, humans have used artificial fragrances for millennia, across many different cultures. This raises the question of whether widespread fragrance use may affect or disrupt the detection of this information in modern humans. The first aim of this thesis was to address this question by investigating how fragrance use may mediate the detection of olfactory information in humans. As well as providing further evidence for sex differences in the assessment of olfactory cues, and for the role of olfaction in real world partner choice, the findings herein suggest that fragrance may act differently on different information being assessed, potentially masking accurate assessment of certain traits (such as masculinity), while fragrance choice and preferences may be important in complementing other olfactory information (such as the general distinguishability of an individuals’ odour profile). A second aim of the thesis was to develop a scale in order to more accurately describe the varying perceptual qualities of human body odour – in other words to map human body odours. This work was conducted alongside perfumers in order to benefit from their expertise in olfactory perception and semantic labelling of odours. The development of such a scale could enable improved understanding of the perceptual qualities of human odour, making it possible to link specific perceptual qualities to specific cues (e.g. symmetry, masculinity, sex) or to manipulate odours based on perceptual qualities in experimental settings, and has direct practical implications for fragrance designers and for improving the ability of individuals to choose fragrance products that suit their odour profile. The second section of the thesis focuses on the effects of odours on the individual wearer as well as on perceivers in the environment. One study is presented which investigates the role of malodour reduction compared to the addition of fragrances in perceptions of confidence and attractiveness, finding that both the reduction of malodour and the addition of fragrance appear to be important for confidence as rated by others in the environment. The final study presented in the thesis examines a hitherto un-investigated role of olfaction during human pregnancy. The rationale for the study is based on evidence suggesting that in certain non-human species, which also show bi-parental care of offspring, there may be a role for chemical, or odour based, communication which underpins behavioural and endocrinological changes related to infant care behaviours in males. The study found little evidence to support the presence of analogous olfactory signalling during human pregnancy, though the findings are discussed in light of methodological changes which, if made in future studies, may result in different outcomes. The thesis concludes with a discussion of the importance of continuing to investigate various forms of olfactory communication, as well as improving our understanding of odours through the mapping of their perceptual qualities, and finally further examining the ways in which various fragranced products, which are widely used in society, may affect all of this. Future directions for this area of research are discussed. This line of investigation will, I argue, enable us to finally establish the true role of olfaction in contemporary social environments.

L’allergie cutanée est un problème majeur de santé publique pouvant fortement impacter la vie de l’individu atteint. Une cause largement reconnue d’allergie de contact sont les substances parfumantes intégrées dans les produits cosmétiques. La réglementation cosmétique en vigueur oblige le fabricant à évaluer les risques de ces substances. Bien que certaines de ces substances soient également présentes dans les huiles essentielles, il n’existe pas à l’heure actuelle une telle réglementation pour les huiles essentielles. L’objectif de cette thèse a été de caractériser l’exposition à certaines substances parfumantes d’intérêt provenant de la consommation d’huiles essentielles et de produits cosmétiques. Nous avons d’abord étudié la consommation d’huiles essentielles au sein d’un panel représentatif de la population française. Nous avons ensuite défini les substances parfumantes sensibilisantes retrouvées dans ces huiles. L’exposition cutanée aux produits cosmétiques a également été étudiée. Enfin, ces données ont été croisées pour comparer l’exposition provenant de la consommation de ces deux produits au limonène en utilisant des méthodes statistiques probabilistes (Méthodes de Monte-Carlo). Cela a permis de démontrer que les huiles essentielles pouvaient être un fort contributeur dans l’exposition globale au limonène, pour certaines zones corporelles comme le visage. Il a donc été mis en évidence l’intérêt de la prise en compte des huiles essentielles, et non pas seulement des produits cosmétiques dans l’exposition globale à certains allergènes de contact, pour mieux protéger la population. / Skin sensitization is a public health issue in France and in the rest of Europe that can impact the life of the affected individual. A well-known cause of skin sensitization are the fragrance allergens present in cosmetics. The European cosmetic regulation in force to date requires the manufacturer to assess the risks of these substances prior to their placing on the market. Although some of these substances are also present in essential oils, there is currently no such regulation for these products. The aim of this work was to characterize the exposure to particular fragrance substances of interest due to the consumption of essential oils and cosmetics. At first, we studied the consumption of essential oils in a representative panel of the French population. Then, we defined the fragrance allergens found in these oils. We also defined dermal exposure to cosmetics. Finally, these data were crossed using probabilistic statistical methods (Monte-Carlo methods) to compare exposure to a particular allergen present in these two products: the limonene. This work permitted to demonstrate that essential oils can be a strong contributor in the global exposure to limonene, for particular body areas, e.g. face. This work therefore highlights the importance of taking into account essential oils, and not only cosmetics in the global exposure to particular contact allergens, in order to better protect the population.