Doctor of Philosophy / Department of Human Nutrition / Edgar Chambers IV / Understanding how consumers perceive fragrances based on different aspects (e.g., hedonic, emotions, term association, expectation of functional benefit, and use occasion, etc.) can help product developers or marketers create the right product or message for consumers. The objective of this study was to understand how consumers from different demographic groups, personality types, and liking patterns responded to fragrance samples. Five masculine odorants were selected and evaluated by 240 consumers across the United States. Results demonstrated that consumers from different groups (classified based on age, gender, or personality) generally differentiated products similarly. However, consumers from different personality segments used the scales differently. That is, persons who were more open, extrovert, or agreeable tended to score higher than the others. Consumers associated the most liked odorants with terms such as clean, crisp, fresh, and natural. In addition, the most liked odorants increased positive emotions, tended to be used across the most occasions, were appropriate for most products, and raised expectations of functional benefits. In contrast, consumers associated the least liked samples with the terms heavy and bold and had negative responses to most items. Similar findings were found when analyses were conducted on consumers classifying based on liking patterns. Each consumer group liked specific odorants; however, the relationship between the most liked samples and the response variables were similar. Analysis results demonstrated that openness to experience was the only personality factor that influenced fragrance acceptance. Consumers from different demographic segments tended to like different fragrances. For example, men tended to like chypré smells, whereas younger consumers tended to like soft floral/powdery scents. One limitation of the study is the number and type of fragrances tested. It is possible that a different set of fragrances could have produced different results. However, the range of fragrances in this study was broad-based and generally covered the types of fragrances typically available in the marketplace.

O estudo da substantividade de uma composição aromática/fragrância em pele em função do ciclo menstrual é de relevância científica, pois a literatura científica menciona, sem conclusões significativas, que os hormônios sexuais manifestam inúmeros efeitos fisiológicos na pele e de percepção olfativa, principalmente nas fases ovulatória e lútea comparadas às demais fases do ciclo menstrual. O presente trabalho teve como objetivo investigar se os hormônios sexuais influenciam na sensibilidade olfativa e, se as alterações fisiológicas na pele afetam a performance da fragrância durante o ciclo menstrual. Para tanto, foi empregada a avaliação sensorial e determinada a escala de magnitude categórica LMS (escala de magnitude com rótulos) para a quantificação da intensidade de perfume no experimento. O estudo da estabilidade normal da composição aromática definiu a melhor composição para a fase experimental. O estudo clínico foi realizado em quatro fases do ciclo menstrual (menstrual, folicular, ovulatória e lútea) e, cada uma, a intensidade de perfume foi avaliada em 5 tempos experimentais (inicial; 1,5; 3,0; 4,5 e 6h). Em paralelo, foram analisadas as medidas biomecânicas da pele (perda de água transepidérmica, corneometria e sebumetria) e um indivíduo do sexo masculino foi considerado como controle de pele no estudo. As medidas biomecânicas não foram significativas para influenciar na sensiblidade olfativa. A percepção foi maior na fase lútea quando a mulher avaliava sua pele e menor quando avaliava a pele do homem em relação às outras fases. Conclui-se que os hormônios sexuais afetaram a sensibilidade olfativa em diferentes fases do ciclo, porém as alterações fisiológicas provavelmente não interferiram na percepção olfativa e este fato nos orienta para o desenvolvimento de fragrâncias e instiga à pesquisa de matérias-primas aromáticas que influenciam no comportamento da mulher ou até mesmo na atração entre os sexos. / The Substantivity study of the aromatic composition/fragrance on the skin in function of menstrual cycle is the big issue because of the scientific literature says, with no significant conclusions, which the sex hormones demonstrate wide physiologic effects in the skin and in the olfactory perception, particularly, in the ovulatory and luteal phases versus other ones of the menstrual cycle. The aim of this study was to investigate if the sex hormones influence on the olfactory perception and their physiologic effects in the skin might change the fragrance performance during the menstrual cycle. Thus it was employed a sensory evaluation and was defined the LMS scale (labeled magnitude scale) to score the fragrance intensity in the assessment. The stability test defined the best aromatic composition/fragrance to the experiment. The clinical study was conducted in four phases of the menstrual cycle (menstrual, follicular, ovulatory and luteal) and, each one, the perfume intensity was evaluated in 5 experimental times (initial, 1,5h, 3,0h, 4,5h and 6h) in parallel with the bioengineer measurement of the skin (transepidermal water loss, moisturizing and sebum content) and a man was considered a skin control in the experiment. The bioengineer measurement was no significant to influence the olfactory perception; however, the fragrance perception in the luteal phase was higher when the woman evaluated her skin and lower when she evaluated man skin in comparison to the other phases. In summary, the sex hormones influenced the olfactory perception in different phases of the menstrual cycle; however, the skin physiologic effects did not affect the olfactory perception probably and this issue helps to development fragrances and instigates to discover aromatic raw materials that influence woman behavior or even the sex attraction.

O gênero Ionopsis Kunth (Orchidaceae) apresenta seis espécies epífitas distribuídas ao longo do continente americano, incluindo o Caribe, e também nas ilhas de Galápagos. Neste trabalho foram estudadas a anatomia e histoquímica das estruturas secretoras, e caracterizadas as fragrâncias florais das espécies brasileiras de Ionopsis: I. satyrioides e I. utricularioides. A identificação dos componentes químicos das fragrâncias florais de ambas as espécies foi realizada a partir de análises por GC-MS. Além disso, observações de campo foram realizadas para investigar a polinização de I. utricularioides e identificar seus polinizadores. Foram realizados os tratamentos de autopolinização manual, autopolinização espontânea, polinização cruzada e emasculação para caracterizar o sistema reprodutivo da espécie. Plantas foram marcadas como controle no campo para determinar a taxa de frutificação natural. Para I. utricularioides os dados de frutificação obtidos foram comparados com o que é descrito na literatura para populações de Porto Rico. Também foram determinadas a porcentagem de sementes viáveis nos frutos formados pelos tratamentos e em condições naturais. Além disso, I. utricularioides foi investigada com vermelho neutro para determinar se há produção de néctar no cálcar presente nas flores da espécie. Foram encontrados osmóforos em ambas as espécies de Ionopsis estudadas. Ionopsis satyrioides possui osmóforos nas protuberâncias na base do labelo, que pode ser caracterizado por uma epiderme de células arredondadas que produz uma fragrância composta principalmente por farnesol. Por outro lado, I. utricularioides possui um osmóforo papiloso na região das protuberâncias, além das células epidérmicas arredondadas presentes nas protuberâncias, produzindo uma fragrância com ocimeno ou pentadecan-2-ona como o principal constituinte, de acordo com a população analisada. As espécies puderam ser distinguidas de acordo com as suas fragrâncias. Ionopsis utricularioides é polinizada exclusivamente por abelhas, que são atraídas por engano. O polinário fica aderido à porção dorsal da probóscide. Os tratamentos manuais de polinização revelaram que as populações brasileiras de I. utricularioides são auto-incompatíveis e produzem menos frutos que as caribenhas em condições naturais. Os frutos apresentaram uma taxa de 99% de sementes viáveis. De acordo com a Lei de Baker, organismos autocompatíveis são favorecidos pela seleção natural em ambientes isolados como ilhas. Considerando um evento de dispersão associado a um efeito bottleneck, um pequeno número de indivíduos autocompatíveis de I. utricularioides pode ter sido selecionado ao colonizar a ilha de Porto Rico. / Ionopsis Kunth (Orchidaceae) presents six epiphytic species distributed throughout the Americas and also at the Galapagos Islands and the Caribbean Islands. This study investigated the anatomy and histochemistry of the secretory structures, and characterized the floral fragrances of I. satyrioides and I. utricularioides. Also, it was studied in details the floral and reproductive biology of I. utricularioides at the São Paulo state interior, Brazil. Chemical compounds of the flower fragrances were identified with GC-MS analysis. Field observations were made to investigate the pollination of I. utricularioides and identify its pollinators. It were performed the treatments of manual self-pollination, spontaneous self-pollination, cross-pollinations and emasculation to establish the reproductive system of the species. Plants were kept as controls in their natural habitats in order to define the fruit set. Fructification data were compared with the existing literature data for the Puerto Rico populations. It was also determined the percentage of viable seeds in all of the fruits formed by the treatments and also for those formed in natural conditions. Additionally, for I. utricularioides, it was performed a neutral red test to investigate if there is nectar production at the spur present at the species flowers. It was found osmophores in both of the Ionopsis species studied. Ionopsis satyrioides possesses osmophores at the protuberances at the base of the lip, which can be characterized by an epidermis with rounded cells, which produces a fragrance mainly composed by farnesol. On the other hand, I. utricularioides possesses a papillose osmophore at the protuberances region in addition to the odor producing rounded cells of the protuberances epidermis, producing a fragrance with ocimene or pentadecan-2-one as the major compound. The species can be distinguished according to their fragrances. In the Southeastern Brazil, I. utriculariodies flowers from July to October. The species is pollinated exclusively by bees that are attracted by food deceit. The pollinarium gets attached to the dorsal portion of the bees proboscis, while they insert their head in the flowers searching for nectar. The manual pollination treatments revealed that the Brazilian populations of I. utricularioides are self-incompatible and produces less fruits in natural conditions than the self-compatible Caribbean populations. The fruits present 99% of viable seeds. According to Bakers Law, self-compatible organisms are favored by natural selection in isolated environments, such as islands. Taking in consideration a dispersion event associated with bottleneck effect, a small number of self-compatible individuals of I. utricularioides could have been selected while colonizing the Puerto Rico Island.

A cold fiber solid phase microextraction device was designed and constructed based on the use of a thermoelectric cooler (TEC). A three-stage thermoelectric cooler was used for cooling a copper rod coated with a polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) hollow fiber, which served as the SPME fiber. The copper rod was mounted on a commercial SPME plunger and exposed to the cold surface of the TEC, which was enclosed in a small aluminum box. A heat sink and a fan dissipated the generated heat at the hot side of the TEC. By applying an appropriate DC voltage to the TEC, the upper part of the copper rod, which was in contact to the cold side of the TEC, was cooled and the hollow fiber reached a lower temperature through heat transfer. A thermocouple was embedded in the cold side of the TEC for indirect measurement of the fiber temperature. A portable cold fiber SPME device was made by using a car battery as the power supply. The cold fiber SPME device with thermoelectric cooling was applied in quantitative analysis of off-flavors in rice. Hexanal, nonanal, and undecanal were chosen as three test analytes in rice. These analytes were identified according to their retention times and analyzed with a GC/FID instrument. Headspace extraction conditions (i.e. extraction temperature and extraction time) were optimized. Standard addition calibration graphs were obtained at the optimized conditions and the concentrations of the three analytes were calculated. The developed method was compared to a conventional solvent extraction method. The applicability of the portable cold fiber SPME with TEC for field sampling was tested. The effect of cooling on extraction recovery and the reproducibility of extraction were examined for extractions from an n-alkane flow through system. It was found that the extraction recoveries were significantly higher when the fiber was cooled. To further investigate the effect of cooling on the sensitivity of SPME in field sampling, the portable cold fiber SPME was used for extraction of volatile components from living wisteria flowers. Both the number of identified compounds and the related peak areas increased for extractions with cold PDMS fiber relative to without cooling and commercial PDMS and PA fibers. The portable cold fiber SPME device was also used for field sampling of volatile components of living lily-of-the-valley flowers and the extracted compounds were analyzed with GC/MS. The desorption kinetics of hydrophobic organic compounds (HOCs) from environmental solid matrices was investigated using cold fiber SPME with CO2 cooling. Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) and selected volatile organic compounds (i.e. toluene, ethylbenzene, o-xylene) were used as test analytes. Sand, silica gel, and clay were used as laboratory model solid matrices and were contaminated by the test analytes. Certified sediments were used as naturally contaminated samples. In this approach, the organic compounds, released from contaminated solid samples at different elevated temperatures, were exhaustively extracted with cold fiber SPME over different extraction times. The extraction data were used to obtain desorption and Arrhenius plots. The rate constants of desorption and activation energies of desorption were measured for each contaminant using these plots. The results were comparable to those reported in the literature.

A cold fiber solid phase microextraction device was designed and constructed based on the use of a thermoelectric cooler (TEC). A three-stage thermoelectric cooler was used for cooling a copper rod coated with a polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) hollow fiber, which served as the SPME fiber. The copper rod was mounted on a commercial SPME plunger and exposed to the cold surface of the TEC, which was enclosed in a small aluminum box. A heat sink and a fan dissipated the generated heat at the hot side of the TEC. By applying an appropriate DC voltage to the TEC, the upper part of the copper rod, which was in contact to the cold side of the TEC, was cooled and the hollow fiber reached a lower temperature through heat transfer. A thermocouple was embedded in the cold side of the TEC for indirect measurement of the fiber temperature. A portable cold fiber SPME device was made by using a car battery as the power supply. The cold fiber SPME device with thermoelectric cooling was applied in quantitative analysis of off-flavors in rice. Hexanal, nonanal, and undecanal were chosen as three test analytes in rice. These analytes were identified according to their retention times and analyzed with a GC/FID instrument. Headspace extraction conditions (i.e. extraction temperature and extraction time) were optimized. Standard addition calibration graphs were obtained at the optimized conditions and the concentrations of the three analytes were calculated. The developed method was compared to a conventional solvent extraction method. The applicability of the portable cold fiber SPME with TEC for field sampling was tested. The effect of cooling on extraction recovery and the reproducibility of extraction were examined for extractions from an n-alkane flow through system. It was found that the extraction recoveries were significantly higher when the fiber was cooled. To further investigate the effect of cooling on the sensitivity of SPME in field sampling, the portable cold fiber SPME was used for extraction of volatile components from living wisteria flowers. Both the number of identified compounds and the related peak areas increased for extractions with cold PDMS fiber relative to without cooling and commercial PDMS and PA fibers. The portable cold fiber SPME device was also used for field sampling of volatile components of living lily-of-the-valley flowers and the extracted compounds were analyzed with GC/MS. The desorption kinetics of hydrophobic organic compounds (HOCs) from environmental solid matrices was investigated using cold fiber SPME with CO2 cooling. Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) and selected volatile organic compounds (i.e. toluene, ethylbenzene, o-xylene) were used as test analytes. Sand, silica gel, and clay were used as laboratory model solid matrices and were contaminated by the test analytes. Certified sediments were used as naturally contaminated samples. In this approach, the organic compounds, released from contaminated solid samples at different elevated temperatures, were exhaustively extracted with cold fiber SPME over different extraction times. The extraction data were used to obtain desorption and Arrhenius plots. The rate constants of desorption and activation energies of desorption were measured for each contaminant using these plots. The results were comparable to those reported in the literature.

A presente pesquisa consistiu em identificar a imagem percebida pelo consumidor em relação ao valor da marca em perfumes de luxo. Com a evolução do Marketing ao longo dos anos muitas mudanças e aperfeiçoamentos foram necessárias para que o marketing viesse contribuir para o desenvolvimento e crescimento das organizações, bem como, incentivar o consumo no mercado. Com isso, o entendimento do comportamento do consumidor é importante para saber e compreender as necessidades e desejos do consumidor e, também, o comportamento da oferta e da demanda. Neste aspecto, o comportamento do consumidor aborda um sistema de configuração de imagem que consiste no inter-relacionamento, explicações e experiências (emocionais e racionais) do consumidor com o ambiente fazendo com que uma imagem seja gerada na mente do cliente. Além disso, é importante saber como o consumidor toma a decisão de compra, quais os fatores externos que influenciam esta geração de imagem no cognitivo. Neste sentido as classes sociais são destacadas, pois cada produto é criado para nichos específicos do mercado. Nesta pesquisa destaca-se o luxo buscando uma relação entre os fatores e, assim, surge o problema de pesquisa: Qual a afinidade existente entre imagem de marca, qualidade, envolvimento, imagem de preço e valor percebido em relação à intenção de compra? Para responder a esta pergunta a pesquisa se deteve em uma pesquisa quantitativa e, através de um experimento, estudou o comportamento do consumidor em relação ao perfume 212 MEN e 212 Sexy, perfumes caracterizados de luxo. Para o experimento se adotou um modelo fatorial de 2 x 2 (duas marcas e dois preços), aplicou-se a pesquisa em 4 grupos diferentes. O grupo n.º 1 caracterizava-se na apresentação do perfume, marca, preço e aroma original, o grupo 2 foi exposto à marca e aroma original e preço inferior. No grupo 3 foi apresentado uma marca manipulada mas o preço e aroma do perfume original e no grupo 4 a marca e o preço foram manipulados e o aroma original. Após a aplicação do questionário nos grupos, foi feito ajuste no questionário e os dados obtidos foram tratados. Como resultados foram feitos os testes das hipóteses, onde H1 foi confirmada, com apresentando 44,5% de explicação no valor percebido como impacto positivo na intenção de compra. H2 também foi confirmada, e a imagem da marca influencia em 46,2% na intenção de compra. H3 obteve-se 49,7% no fator qualidade percebida como fator influenciador na intenção de compra. Por fim, a imagem de preço e o envolvimento foram rejeitados na intenção de compra, apresentando 23,7% e 24,4%, respectivamente. / Submitted by Marcelo Teixeira (mvteixeira@ucs.br) on 2014-04-28T13:31:57Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Dissertacao Vinicius de Vargas Bacichetto.pdf: 5137263 bytes, checksum: 5ced3a3cb6cfeb23ea3de82a2500c20d (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2014-04-28T13:31:57Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Dissertacao Vinicius de Vargas Bacichetto.pdf: 5137263 bytes, checksum: 5ced3a3cb6cfeb23ea3de82a2500c20d (MD5) / The present research was to identify the image perceived by the consumer to the value of the brand in luxury fragrances. With the evolution of marketing over the years many changes and improvements were necessary for the marketing would contribute to the development and growth of organizations, as well as encouraging the consumption market. With this understanding of consumer behavior is important to know and understand the needs and desires of the consumer and also the behavior of supply and demand. In this respect, consumer behavior covers a system image configuration consisting of the inter-relationship, explanations and experiences (emotional and rational) consumer with the environment so that an image is generated in the mind of the customer. Furthermore, it is important to know how the consumer decides to buy, what external factors that influence this imaging in cognitive. In this sense social classes are highlighted, as each product is created for specific market niches. This research highlights the luxury seeking a relationship between the factors and thus arises the research problem: What is the affinity between brand image, quality, engagement, image price and perceived value in relation to the purchase intent? To answer this question, the research stopped in quantitative research and, through an experiment, studied consumer behavior in relation to perfume MEN 212 and 212 Sexy, perfumes featured luxury. For the experiment was adopted a model of 2 x 2 factorial (two marks and two prices), applied research in 4 different groups. The group n.º 1 was characterized in the presentation of perfume, brand, price and original aroma, group 2 was exposed to the brand and original aroma and lower price. In group 3 was presented a brand but manipulated the price and original aroma of perfume and group 4 to brand and price were manipulated and original aroma. After the questionnaire in groups, adjustments were made in the questionnaire and the data were treated. As results were made tests of hypotheses, where H1 was confirmed, with 44.5% presenting explanation on perceived value as positive impact on purchase intent. H2 was also confirmed, and brand image influences in 46.2% in purchase intent. H3 was obtained in 49.7% factor influencing perceived quality as a factor in purchase intent. Finally, the price image and involvement were rejected in purchase intent, with 23.7% and 24.4%, respectively.

A presente pesquisa consistiu em identificar a imagem percebida pelo consumidor em relação ao valor da marca em perfumes de luxo. Com a evolução do Marketing ao longo dos anos muitas mudanças e aperfeiçoamentos foram necessárias para que o marketing viesse contribuir para o desenvolvimento e crescimento das organizações, bem como, incentivar o consumo no mercado. Com isso, o entendimento do comportamento do consumidor é importante para saber e compreender as necessidades e desejos do consumidor e, também, o comportamento da oferta e da demanda. Neste aspecto, o comportamento do consumidor aborda um sistema de configuração de imagem que consiste no inter-relacionamento, explicações e experiências (emocionais e racionais) do consumidor com o ambiente fazendo com que uma imagem seja gerada na mente do cliente. Além disso, é importante saber como o consumidor toma a decisão de compra, quais os fatores externos que influenciam esta geração de imagem no cognitivo. Neste sentido as classes sociais são destacadas, pois cada produto é criado para nichos específicos do mercado. Nesta pesquisa destaca-se o luxo buscando uma relação entre os fatores e, assim, surge o problema de pesquisa: Qual a afinidade existente entre imagem de marca, qualidade, envolvimento, imagem de preço e valor percebido em relação à intenção de compra? Para responder a esta pergunta a pesquisa se deteve em uma pesquisa quantitativa e, através de um experimento, estudou o comportamento do consumidor em relação ao perfume 212 MEN e 212 Sexy, perfumes caracterizados de luxo. Para o experimento se adotou um modelo fatorial de 2 x 2 (duas marcas e dois preços), aplicou-se a pesquisa em 4 grupos diferentes. O grupo n.º 1 caracterizava-se na apresentação do perfume, marca, preço e aroma original, o grupo 2 foi exposto à marca e aroma original e preço inferior. No grupo 3 foi apresentado uma marca manipulada mas o preço e aroma do perfume original e no grupo 4 a marca e o preço foram manipulados e o aroma original. Após a aplicação do questionário nos grupos, foi feito ajuste no questionário e os dados obtidos foram tratados. Como resultados foram feitos os testes das hipóteses, onde H1 foi confirmada, com apresentando 44,5% de explicação no valor percebido como impacto positivo na intenção de compra. H2 também foi confirmada, e a imagem da marca influencia em 46,2% na intenção de compra. H3 obteve-se 49,7% no fator qualidade percebida como fator influenciador na intenção de compra. Por fim, a imagem de preço e o envolvimento foram rejeitados na intenção de compra, apresentando 23,7% e 24,4%, respectivamente. / The present research was to identify the image perceived by the consumer to the value of the brand in luxury fragrances. With the evolution of marketing over the years many changes and improvements were necessary for the marketing would contribute to the development and growth of organizations, as well as encouraging the consumption market. With this understanding of consumer behavior is important to know and understand the needs and desires of the consumer and also the behavior of supply and demand. In this respect, consumer behavior covers a system image configuration consisting of the inter-relationship, explanations and experiences (emotional and rational) consumer with the environment so that an image is generated in the mind of the customer. Furthermore, it is important to know how the consumer decides to buy, what external factors that influence this imaging in cognitive. In this sense social classes are highlighted, as each product is created for specific market niches. This research highlights the luxury seeking a relationship between the factors and thus arises the research problem: What is the affinity between brand image, quality, engagement, image price and perceived value in relation to the purchase intent? To answer this question, the research stopped in quantitative research and, through an experiment, studied consumer behavior in relation to perfume MEN 212 and 212 Sexy, perfumes featured luxury. For the experiment was adopted a model of 2 x 2 factorial (two marks and two prices), applied research in 4 different groups. The group n.º 1 was characterized in the presentation of perfume, brand, price and original aroma, group 2 was exposed to the brand and original aroma and lower price. In group 3 was presented a brand but manipulated the price and original aroma of perfume and group 4 to brand and price were manipulated and original aroma. After the questionnaire in groups, adjustments were made in the questionnaire and the data were treated. As results were made tests of hypotheses, where H1 was confirmed, with 44.5% presenting explanation on perceived value as positive impact on purchase intent. H2 was also confirmed, and brand image influences in 46.2% in purchase intent. H3 was obtained in 49.7% factor influencing perceived quality as a factor in purchase intent. Finally, the price image and involvement were rejected in purchase intent, with 23.7% and 24.4%, respectively.

O gênero Ionopsis Kunth (Orchidaceae) apresenta seis espécies epífitas distribuídas ao longo do continente americano, incluindo o Caribe, e também nas ilhas de Galápagos. Neste trabalho foram estudadas a anatomia e histoquímica das estruturas secretoras, e caracterizadas as fragrâncias florais das espécies brasileiras de Ionopsis: I. satyrioides e I. utricularioides. A identificação dos componentes químicos das fragrâncias florais de ambas as espécies foi realizada a partir de análises por GC-MS. Além disso, observações de campo foram realizadas para investigar a polinização de I. utricularioides e identificar seus polinizadores. Foram realizados os tratamentos de autopolinização manual, autopolinização espontânea, polinização cruzada e emasculação para caracterizar o sistema reprodutivo da espécie. Plantas foram marcadas como controle no campo para determinar a taxa de frutificação natural. Para I. utricularioides os dados de frutificação obtidos foram comparados com o que é descrito na literatura para populações de Porto Rico. Também foram determinadas a porcentagem de sementes viáveis nos frutos formados pelos tratamentos e em condições naturais. Além disso, I. utricularioides foi investigada com vermelho neutro para determinar se há produção de néctar no cálcar presente nas flores da espécie. Foram encontrados osmóforos em ambas as espécies de Ionopsis estudadas. Ionopsis satyrioides possui osmóforos nas protuberâncias na base do labelo, que pode ser caracterizado por uma epiderme de células arredondadas que produz uma fragrância composta principalmente por farnesol. Por outro lado, I. utricularioides possui um osmóforo papiloso na região das protuberâncias, além das células epidérmicas arredondadas presentes nas protuberâncias, produzindo uma fragrância com ocimeno ou pentadecan-2-ona como o principal constituinte, de acordo com a população analisada. As espécies puderam ser distinguidas de acordo com as suas fragrâncias. Ionopsis utricularioides é polinizada exclusivamente por abelhas, que são atraídas por engano. O polinário fica aderido à porção dorsal da probóscide. Os tratamentos manuais de polinização revelaram que as populações brasileiras de I. utricularioides são auto-incompatíveis e produzem menos frutos que as caribenhas em condições naturais. Os frutos apresentaram uma taxa de 99% de sementes viáveis. De acordo com a Lei de Baker, organismos autocompatíveis são favorecidos pela seleção natural em ambientes isolados como ilhas. Considerando um evento de dispersão associado a um efeito bottleneck, um pequeno número de indivíduos autocompatíveis de I. utricularioides pode ter sido selecionado ao colonizar a ilha de Porto Rico. / Ionopsis Kunth (Orchidaceae) presents six epiphytic species distributed throughout the Americas and also at the Galapagos Islands and the Caribbean Islands. This study investigated the anatomy and histochemistry of the secretory structures, and characterized the floral fragrances of I. satyrioides and I. utricularioides. Also, it was studied in details the floral and reproductive biology of I. utricularioides at the São Paulo state interior, Brazil. Chemical compounds of the flower fragrances were identified with GC-MS analysis. Field observations were made to investigate the pollination of I. utricularioides and identify its pollinators. It were performed the treatments of manual self-pollination, spontaneous self-pollination, cross-pollinations and emasculation to establish the reproductive system of the species. Plants were kept as controls in their natural habitats in order to define the fruit set. Fructification data were compared with the existing literature data for the Puerto Rico populations. It was also determined the percentage of viable seeds in all of the fruits formed by the treatments and also for those formed in natural conditions. Additionally, for I. utricularioides, it was performed a neutral red test to investigate if there is nectar production at the spur present at the species flowers. It was found osmophores in both of the Ionopsis species studied. Ionopsis satyrioides possesses osmophores at the protuberances at the base of the lip, which can be characterized by an epidermis with rounded cells, which produces a fragrance mainly composed by farnesol. On the other hand, I. utricularioides possesses a papillose osmophore at the protuberances region in addition to the odor producing rounded cells of the protuberances epidermis, producing a fragrance with ocimene or pentadecan-2-one as the major compound. The species can be distinguished according to their fragrances. In the Southeastern Brazil, I. utriculariodies flowers from July to October. The species is pollinated exclusively by bees that are attracted by food deceit. The pollinarium gets attached to the dorsal portion of the bees proboscis, while they insert their head in the flowers searching for nectar. The manual pollination treatments revealed that the Brazilian populations of I. utricularioides are self-incompatible and produces less fruits in natural conditions than the self-compatible Caribbean populations. The fruits present 99% of viable seeds. According to Bakers Law, self-compatible organisms are favored by natural selection in isolated environments, such as islands. Taking in consideration a dispersion event associated with bottleneck effect, a small number of self-compatible individuals of I. utricularioides could have been selected while colonizing the Puerto Rico Island.

O estudo da substantividade de uma composição aromática/fragrância em pele em função do ciclo menstrual é de relevância científica, pois a literatura científica menciona, sem conclusões significativas, que os hormônios sexuais manifestam inúmeros efeitos fisiológicos na pele e de percepção olfativa, principalmente nas fases ovulatória e lútea comparadas às demais fases do ciclo menstrual. O presente trabalho teve como objetivo investigar se os hormônios sexuais influenciam na sensibilidade olfativa e, se as alterações fisiológicas na pele afetam a performance da fragrância durante o ciclo menstrual. Para tanto, foi empregada a avaliação sensorial e determinada a escala de magnitude categórica LMS (escala de magnitude com rótulos) para a quantificação da intensidade de perfume no experimento. O estudo da estabilidade normal da composição aromática definiu a melhor composição para a fase experimental. O estudo clínico foi realizado em quatro fases do ciclo menstrual (menstrual, folicular, ovulatória e lútea) e, cada uma, a intensidade de perfume foi avaliada em 5 tempos experimentais (inicial; 1,5; 3,0; 4,5 e 6h). Em paralelo, foram analisadas as medidas biomecânicas da pele (perda de água transepidérmica, corneometria e sebumetria) e um indivíduo do sexo masculino foi considerado como controle de pele no estudo. As medidas biomecânicas não foram significativas para influenciar na sensiblidade olfativa. A percepção foi maior na fase lútea quando a mulher avaliava sua pele e menor quando avaliava a pele do homem em relação às outras fases. Conclui-se que os hormônios sexuais afetaram a sensibilidade olfativa em diferentes fases do ciclo, porém as alterações fisiológicas provavelmente não interferiram na percepção olfativa e este fato nos orienta para o desenvolvimento de fragrâncias e instiga à pesquisa de matérias-primas aromáticas que influenciam no comportamento da mulher ou até mesmo na atração entre os sexos. / The Substantivity study of the aromatic composition/fragrance on the skin in function of menstrual cycle is the big issue because of the scientific literature says, with no significant conclusions, which the sex hormones demonstrate wide physiologic effects in the skin and in the olfactory perception, particularly, in the ovulatory and luteal phases versus other ones of the menstrual cycle. The aim of this study was to investigate if the sex hormones influence on the olfactory perception and their physiologic effects in the skin might change the fragrance performance during the menstrual cycle. Thus it was employed a sensory evaluation and was defined the LMS scale (labeled magnitude scale) to score the fragrance intensity in the assessment. The stability test defined the best aromatic composition/fragrance to the experiment. The clinical study was conducted in four phases of the menstrual cycle (menstrual, follicular, ovulatory and luteal) and, each one, the perfume intensity was evaluated in 5 experimental times (initial, 1,5h, 3,0h, 4,5h and 6h) in parallel with the bioengineer measurement of the skin (transepidermal water loss, moisturizing and sebum content) and a man was considered a skin control in the experiment. The bioengineer measurement was no significant to influence the olfactory perception; however, the fragrance perception in the luteal phase was higher when the woman evaluated her skin and lower when she evaluated man skin in comparison to the other phases. In summary, the sex hormones influenced the olfactory perception in different phases of the menstrual cycle; however, the skin physiologic effects did not affect the olfactory perception probably and this issue helps to development fragrances and instigates to discover aromatic raw materials that influence woman behavior or even the sex attraction.

Orientador: Anita Jocelyne Marsaioli / Tese (doutorado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Instituto de Química / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-21T09:30:03Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Silva_CarlaPortoda_D.pdf: 8471917 bytes, checksum: 298adab03875869cd5d11c7dac0a7b90 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2012 / Resumo: Estima-se que o corpo humano que contém cerca de 10 trilhões de células seja portador de aproximadamente 100 trilhões de micro-organismos. Fatores ambientais como temperatura, umidade e exposição à luz, além de fatores do hospedeiro, como gênero, genótipo, status imune e uso de cosméticos, podem afetar a composição e a distribuição microbiana da pele. Inúmeras pesquisas indicam que a microbiota desempenha um papel importante no sistema imune da pele. Contudo, pouco é conhecido sobre os conjuntos de espécies presentes em amostras cutâneas bem como suas atividades enzimáticas. Esta tese visou realizar o estudo do potencial enzimático da microbiota da pele humana, vinculando este potencial às principais reações de degradação de formulações de cosméticos, mais especificamente, insumos de fragrâncias. O recrutamento dos voluntários levou em conta parâmetros como idade, sexo e fototipo de pele. As principais atividades enzimáticas das microbiotas coletadas foram avaliadas através de técnicas de triagem de alto desempenho, a fim de detectar proteases, lipases, amilases, esterases, epóxido hidrolases e mono-oxigenases, num total de 2.160 experimentos. Através dos resultados obtidos das triagens enzimáticas, algumas amostras foram selecionadas para a realização de ensaios de degradação de insumos de fragrâncias através de ensaios de multibiorreação. Todos os resultados obtidos foram avaliados com intuito de relacionar o tipo da microbiota coletada com reações de degradação de componentes de fragrância, levando em conta as diferenças intrínsecas de cada voluntário. Além disso, observou-se uma grande diversidade fúngica, ainda pouco descrita na literatura, onde diversos representantes foram isolados e identificados. Os dados obtidos demonstraram que os tipos de pele devem ser levados em consideração nas formulações de uso tópico a fim de atingir alvos específicos, tendo em vista que a pele humana não é um ambiente estéril, mas sim um microbioma complexo. Desta forma, o potencial de biotransformação de insumos cosméticos pela microbiota da pele é um fator relevante e poderá auxiliar na busca de produtos mais eficazes, seguros e versáteis / Abstract: The human body contains about 10 trillion cells and carries approximately 100 trillion microorganisms¿ cells. Environmental factors, such as temperature, humidity and light exposure and host factors such as gender, genotype, immune status and use of cosmetics, can affect the composition and distribution of skin microbes. Numerous studies indicate that skin microbiota plays an important role in the human skin immune system. However, little is known about the species present in skin samples and their enzymatic activities. Therefore, the aim of this thesis was to evaluate the enzymatic potential of the human skin microbiota, establishing a link between this potential and the main fragrance degradation of cosmetic formulations, more specifically, fragrance ingredients. The recruitment of volunteers (55) took into account some parameters such as age, gender and skin phototype. The main enzymatic activities of the collected microbiota were assessed by high throughput screening techniques in order to detect protease, lipase, amylase, esterase, epoxide hydrolase and monooxygenase, in a total of 2160 experiments. These enzymatic profiles were applied in the selection of microorganisms to probe the biodegradability of fragrance ingredients using the multibioreaction protocol. The results linking microbiota type and degradation reactions of fragrance ingredients took into consideration the intrinsic differences between volunteers. In addition, a great fungal diversity, still poorly described in the literature, was observed and several representative entities of this diversity were isolated and identified. The obtained data showed that skin types must be considered in topical formulations to achieve specific biological targets and , taking into consideration that the human skin is not a sterile environment, but rather consists of a complex microbiome. Consequently the biotransformation susceptibility of cosmetic ingredients to human skin microbiota is a relevant factor to consider in formulations / Doutorado / Quimica Organica / Doutor em Ciências