The scope of this thesis is to reveal the hidden dimensions of fashion. With the aim to stress the worth of participation and the individual experience of fashion. This work is questioning what we see, and later what is actually there. Through a thorough investigation of the knit technique the relationship of loop and thread (pause and activity) is the focus of this paper. Enhancing the significant qualities of the knitted technique, where material and shape is born simultaneously, the result presented holds a variety of results. With the aim to discuss multiple dimensions this knit investigation is presented in a fashion context. Styled with technical sportswear this work is challenging knitwear -as well as sportswear. By clashing sports connotated materials with the knitted wool, both fields are expanded and new options and expression are presented. The motive of this investigation is to further state the worth of fashion. To create a space for the experience of fashion, stating the various result that is not depending on the presentation on body. This work questions the pre-set truths and conventions of what fashion could be, and our ability to judge what is presented for us.

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Due to its three-dimensional, elastic and flexible properties the weft-knitted technique is especially functional within the realm of performance textiles. Within the knit one can create flexible and movement-specific structures fitting to the body without waste material. A capability which is valuable when creating costumes for dance performances. However, it is seldom that the material is the focus of the performance and even more so, that the material is equal to the dancer. This project aims to explore the intra-active relationship between knitted textiles and human, by designing flexible three-dimensional textiles with high kinetic and visual agency. A perspective that enables the designer to create new performative expressions together with the dancer. This exploration is conducted through technical and material explorations where the kinetic and visual potential of different knitted structures are developed. The intra-active potential is evaluated and developed through collaboration with a dancer. The three knitted structures with high kinetic and visual potential, are intra-acted with by a dancer in a filmed performance. This synergy of human and material is valuable as it is the result of a collaborative design process, where the material is the directing force both in the textile process as well as the dancer’s process. A result of a more homogeneous design process where human and material listens to each other, but also where different disciplines exchanges knowledge and perspectives in an intra-active relationship.

This project’s origin lies in the clash of translucency and opacity in relation to color, knit and the body. This clash is explored through manipulated knitwear. By manipulating knitwear the interaction between opacity, translucency and the body inside becomes the vital core of this collection work. The main tool to manipulate the knit and to push the effect of translucency is the textile printing technique „devoré“.

With inspiration from Elsa Schiaparelli’s Bowknot sweater, this work investigates the possibilities to create knitted versions of woven archetypes with the aim to reconstruct sartorial attires through abstraction in knit. This is conducted through the exploration of the construction of the suit jacket, with a focus on the layering of fusing to build shape. The work is abstracted based on the gestalt psychology theory of figure-ground with the purpose to play with the viewer’s perception of what is seen. The concept of figure-ground is also further explored within colour. Based on Carlos Cruz Diez theories of colour and the work titled Couleur Additive a study to create the perception of the colour grey is made. The final result is a menswear collection visualised in a virtual form made with the software CLO3D.

In this work is the realm of lichens. Lichens are everywhere around us but generally unseen by many people. Lichens adjust and react to the circumstances of its surrounding: humid or dry. The responsive property of the lichens to humidity led to the investigation of this species in combination with the flexible properties of knitted textiles. The knit enhances the lichens’ properties in its stretchable, textural, and color possibilities. While activating the textiles through moisture, there is a change in haptic- and visual expression. Working towards a material library, the transformable properties of the textiles are being explored. Lichen in combination with knit is investigated in four categories: transformation, shape, texture, and dye. The lichen and the knit adapt their role according to the category and demonstrate the potential of their various collaborations in each category. In several countries, lichens are protected due to the increase in air pollution. Through visualizing and emphasizing these precious and unseen species, the changeable textiles aim to activate the viewer in rethinking human’s relationship to nature.

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The broader intention of this work is to investigate knitted textiles as interactive pieces, where changeable qualities embedded in the knit design are activated through movement. The main objective is to provide a novel perspective of the role and perception of knitted materials in a performative context. Presenting a shift from previously seen static knitted material to incorporating knit design to create knitted pieces that have the opportunity to enhance and take part. Due to the moving body being an activator of the changeability embedded in the knitted textile design, the work has a strong connection to related fields such as contemporary dance and performance. The work is carried out through practice-based research, where experimentation both in terms of technical development of knit design and their performative possibilities are used to obtain knowledge. The interrelation between knit, changeability, performativity and movement are researched through a series of experiments. The result of this work provides a variety of knitted pieces, each with their unique properties in regards to changeability and performativity, as well as a film of a performance where one can experience the knitted pieces and their properties during movement.