Zu Beginn des Forschungsvorhabens wurden im Rahmen der Teilprojekte B1 und B2 des SFB 532 alkalibeständige Glas- und Carbonrovings eingesetzt, die zu offenmaschigen 2D-Textilien verarbeitet wurden. Untersuchungen des Verbund- und des Tragverhaltens der Verstärkungsstrukturen in Pull-Out- und Dehnkörperversuchen haben gezeigt, dass das Potential der Verstärkungsfasern aufgrund einer unvollständiger Durchtränkung der Bewehrung nicht vollständig ausgeschöpft werden kann. Auch Defizite bei der Produktionstechnik wurden erkannt und für zukünftige Entwicklungen analysiert. Um das Potential der verwendeten Verstärkungsfaser vollständiger auszuschöpfen, wurden innovative Garnkonstruktionen, die sich positiv auf den inneren und/oder den äußeren Verbund auswirken, entwickelt und erprobt. Anhand von Versuchsreihen auf der Textilebene wurden unterschiedliche Textilparameter, wie Art der Bindung, Gittergröße und Wirkfadenspannung, identifiziert, die unmittelbar die Tragfähigkeit der Verbundbauteile beeinflussen. Für die gängigen Produktionstechniken Laminieren, Gießen, Spritzen, Schleudern und Extrudieren wurden entsprechende Bewehrungskonstruktionen abgeleitet, die den Anforderungen des jeweiligen Prozess angepasst wurden. Ein weiterer Punkt der Forschungsaktivitäten stellte die Entwicklung der Maschinentechnik zur Herstellung von Verstärkungstextilien dar. Am Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) der RWTH Aachen University wurde in Zusammenarbeit mit Industriepartnern ein Maschinenkonzept entwickelt und umgesetzt, das die Herstellung von 3D-Abstandsgewirken mit einer freien Gestaltung der Deckflächen mit marktrelevanten Produktionsgeschwindigkeiten ermöglicht. Zur gezielten Einstellung der Wirkfadenspannung wurde ein Regelungssystem konzipiert und technisch umgesetzt, mit dem eine reproduzierbare Fertigung von textilen Verstärkungsstrukturen möglich wird.

Textilhögskolan i Borås startade projektet Knit On Demand i syftet att undersöka och utvärdera complete garment teknologin. Idén bygger på konceptet masskundanpassning inom området stickning. Huvudaktörerna i Knit On Demand projektet är Textilhögskolan i Borås, återförsäljaren SOM Concept i Stockholm samt Ivanhoe, tillverkare av stickade kläder. Målet med detta arbete är att identifiera och beskriva alla processteg, från den tidpunkt då kunden kliver in i butiken i Stockholm tills det färdiga plagget leverats. Vårt arbete går även ut på att hitta och beskriva förbättringsmöjligheter samt tillhörande kostnads kalkyleringar. För att frambringa relevant data utför och presenterar vi en simulering av hela processen. Metoden som har använts i arbetet bygger på observerade fallstudier från både SOM Concept och Ivanhoe. Den metod vi använder oss av är baserad på kvantitativ data och kvalitativa intervjuer med personer involverade i projektet. Hela processen beskrivs med hjälp av ett nutida och framtida flödesschema. I det nutida flödesschemat är den totala värdehöjande tiden för ett producerat plagg 129 minuter. Förslaget i ett framtida flödesschema visar att processen kan förbättras, bli mer effektiv och påvisar även hur stora förändringarna skulle bli med en snabbare garnleverantör. För att förbättringarna för Knit On Demand ska gå att genomföras måste ordervolymen ökas från 1 plagg till minst 5 plagg per vecka. Förbättringsförslagen är; nya och snabbare garnleverantörer, ny layout plan för Knit On Demand processen hos Ivanhoe, snabbare produktionstid, installation av ett datasystem som hanterar lagerhållning, bättre kommunikation mellan SOM Concept och Ivanhoe samt förbättrad ställtid. / <p>Knit On Demand started as a project at the Swedish School of Textiles in Borås with the aim of evaluating complete-garment-technology. It is a mass customization concept within knitting technology. The key players are SOM Concept store in Stockholm and Ivanhoe, a producer of knitted garments in Gällstad.The aim with this thesis is to identify and describe all processes in the concept from the moment when the client enters the store until the Knit On Demand garment is manufactured and delivered to the customer. The purpose is also to find and describe improvement opportunities as well as making an estimated cost calculation for them. To gather relevant data, a simulation of the whole process is performed. The method used is an action research case study of the Knit On Demand project based on quantitative data and qualitative interviews with key persons involved.The process is described with a Value Stream Map of the current state and the future “ideal” state. The current state shows that total value-added lead time for producing one garment is 129 minutes. The future or “ideal” state shows how the processes can be improved and be more efficient, it also shows the importance of improving supplier delivery times.To be able to improve the current Knit On Demand set-up, the order volume must increase from 1 to a minimum of 5 or more orders per week. The improvement suggestions are; new and better suppliers of yarn, new layout and improved down time, plan for the production, improved production time, inventory computer system, better communication between SOM Concept and Ivanhoe.</p><p>Program: Textilingenjörsutbildningen</p>

Naturen är ett undersökande arbete i att uttrycka och materialisera en stämning baserat på minnen från en kvällsvandring. Jag gestaltar upplevelsen och materialiserar den i textil. Genom att undersöka möten mellan olika textila tekniker vill jag skapa en kollektion som ger en förnimmelse av min naturupplevelse. Text ur Caroline Ringskog Ferrada-Nolis bok Naturen har varit utgångspunkt vid uppbyggnaden av kollektionen. Resultatet är en dynamisk textilkollektion för hemmiljö som innehåller digitaltryck, ausbrenner jacquardväv och en stickad struktur.Nature is an exploratory work on expressing and materializing a mood based on the memories of a night walk. I portray the experience and materialize it into fabric. By examining the interaction between different textile techniques, I create a collection that gives a perception of my experience of nature. Text from Caroline Ringskog Ferrada-Nolis book Naturen has been the starting point in building up the collection. The result is a dynamic collection of textiles which includes digital printing, ausbrenner, jacquard weaving and a knitted structure. / Program: Textildesignutbildningen

This research explores the scope of waste as a material and methods for fashion design, drawing together an open mindset and sustainable actions for a menswear collection. Reflective Design Practice is the overlaying methodology used to incorporate a wide variety of textile manipulations and materials. The research approach is to source waste materials, with a focus on virgin yarns for knitwear, exploring and identifying the possibilities for individual elements and analyzing through a photographic lineup, repeating for further development. This emergency, as well as a focus on perfect solutions from the offset, can be a barrier for experimentation. Therefore a change in posture and mindset is necessary. For this thesis, posture, motive, and aesthetic design decisions are embodied in a persona - This persona, delicate, yet rough and in a hurry, as with sustainability, are combined into the Lazy Romantic. Speculatively this research has the potential to open up for landfills as material sourcing for fashion design or landfills being unnecessary as the word waste is no longer defining the material.

Juxtaposing in art and design is a commonly used method of creating something new by recomposing already existing elements. The hybrid outcome allows the spectator to re-evaluate the elements merged, and the new relationship set up between them. Hybrids is an attempt to find such meetings through investigating possible material combinations through a series of fabric manipulating techniques, with the aim to generate volume and expression. Parts of the development, with emphasis on print making, have been conducted in a generative methodological way, using randomization and the computer as an autonomous co-creator. Two fabric manipulating techniques were developed during the course of the work; laser cutting mesh and combining stretchy with stiff materials. The common feature of these techniques is their ability to transform from 2D to 3D. Hybrids questions the hierarchy of the traditional fashion design process where form dictates the choice of material. Instead, material comes first, while form relating to body follows. The result is expressive and bold, positioning itself at the intersection of fashion and textile design.

Dans cette thèse, nous nous intéressons à la caractérisation de grandes collections de documents (en utilisant les liens entre ces derniers) afin de faciliter leur utilisation et leur exploitation par des humains ou par des outils informatiques. Dans un premier temps, nous avons abordé la problématique du calcul de centralité dans les graphes de documents. Nous avons décrit les principaux algorithmes de calcul de centralité existants en mettant l'accent sur le problème TKC (Tightly Knit Community) dont souffre la plupart des mesures de centralité récentes. Ensuite, nous avons proposé trois nouveaux algorithmes de calcul de centralité (MHITS, NHITS et DocRank) permettant d'affronter le phénomène TKC. Les différents algorithmes proposés ont été évalués et comparés aux approches existantes. Des critères d'évaluation ont notamment été proposés pour mesurer l'effet TKC. Dans un deuxième temps, nous nous sommes intéressés au problème de la classification non supervisée de documents. Plus précisément, nous avons envisagé ce regroupement comme une tâche d'identification de structures de communautés (ISC) dans les graphes de documents. Nous avons décrit les principales approches d'ISC existantes en distinguant les approches basées sur un modèle génératif des approches algorithmiques ou classiques. Puis, nous avons proposé un modèle génératif (SPCE) basé sur le lissage et sur une initialisation appropriée pour l'ISC dans des graphes de faible densité. Le modèle SPCE a été évalué et validé en le comparant à d'autres approches d'ISC. Enfin, nous avons montré que le modèle SPCE pouvait être étendu pour prendre en compte simultanément les liens et les contenus des documents.

La découverte à Tours de plus de six mille fragments de textiles dans la même fosse, à l’extérieur du rempart qui longe la berge de la Loire (site 69 « place Anatole France »), a permis d’étudier tout le processus du travail textile, du fil au rejet. La quasi-totalité des éléments examinés sont en drap de laine, grande industrie en Europe aux 15e – 16e siècles. Tout comme pour les soieries, moins bien conservées, l’étude s’est attachée à déterminer s’il s’agit de produits tourangeaux. Le traitement des draps de laine, augmentant leur résistance, a permis l’observation des formes, dont quelques pièces de vêtements isolées. Les pièces vestimentaires ont été découpées pour produire lacets et chausses avec une fréquence qui incite à voir dans le rejet la vidange d’un atelier de fripier. Ce corpus et l’analyse de chartes concernant la ville de Tours ouvrent un aperçu de la vie quotidienne dans une capitale de la fin du Moyen Âge, où les habitants relativement fortunés sont vêtus de bon drap et, malgré l’interdiction, de vêtements et accessoires de soie / The discovery in Tours of a set of almost 6000 pieces in the same pit, located just outside the city walls along the Loire River ("place Anatole France") provides an opportunity to study the entire process of textile work. The fragments studied are mostly wool cloth, which was a significant commercial production on the 15th - 16th centuries. As for remains of silk which are less well preserved, the study attempted to determine if they were produced in Tours. Among the shapes of wool remains, remarkably preserved, were a few clear parts of garments. Textiles were re-used to fashion laces and hoses in such a high frequency that the corpus is interpreted as the emptying of a second-hand clothes dealer shop. This corpus, combined with law texts regarding Tours, provides a picture of a late medieval capital city, where bourgeoisie wore good broadcloth and, contrary to law, silk dress accessories

A indústria têxtil brasileira se posiciona como a quinta maior produtora mundial neste segmento. Entretanto, se constata que seu desenvolvimento de produto é ineficiente, não fazendo uso das metodologias de processo de desenvolvimento de produto (PDP) já consagradas no segmento industrial. Especificamente no desenvolvimento do tecido de malha, recorre-se a experiência do técnico desenvolvedor, onde o retrabalho é constante e pautado na tentativa e erro, gerando atrasos no cronograma para o lançamento de uma coleção. No cotidiano das empresas, a etapa conceitual é a mais negligenciada ao se desenvolver uma malha. As metodologias clássicas de PDP indicam que a etapa do projeto conceitual se destaca incidindo, entre outros aspectos, no custo e na diferenciação do produto. As referências bibliográficas, relativas ao PDP têxtil enfatizam a etapa conceitual relacionando-a com o sucesso do produto. Porém, nessas literaturas não se encontram indicativos de como conduzir a etapa conceitual. A presente dissertação tem o objetivo de apresentar o desenvolvimento de um modelo e ferramenta para desenvolvimento de malhas, na etapa conceitual. Para tanto, foi realizado um levantamento bibliográfico sobre: algumas metodologias de PDP clássicas; a indústria têxtil e seus segmentos; e o PDP na indústria têxtil; para, posteriormente, executar um levantamento de campo junto à empresas desenvolvedoras de malha, visando um diagnóstico do seu PDP. Em seguida, os resultados obtidos no levantamento de campo foram comparados aos referenciais bibliográficos, para identificar as lacunas existentes na prática. Com a verificação de que a etapa conceitual é a mais crítica na prática, concebeu-se uma metodologia para desenvolvimento de malha na etapa conceitual, baseada em Back e co-autores. Posteriormente, foi construída uma ferramenta computacional onde a abordagem proposta se desenvolve, gerando registros de todo o processamento. Para validar a ferramenta, foi conduzido experimento simulando situações de projeto. Ao final, os participantes responderam um questionário referente às percepções sobre o modelo e a ferramenta. Os resultados obtidos foram positivos, indicando ser este modelo de grande valia para o desenvolvimento de malha, aumentando a assertividade no seu desenvolvimento. / The Brazilian textile industry is the fifth largest producer in the world. However, it has an inefficient product development process (PDP), not employing formal design methodologies, since some of them are already well established in the industrial segment. Specifically in the development of knitted fabric, the experience of the technical developer is fundamental, but it does not avoid reworking, which is most of the time guided by a trial and error approach, causing delays in the collections launching. Data from a field survey suggest that the conceptual design phase, for example, is one of the most neglected. The classical methodologies for PDP indicate that the stage of conceptual design is important because it focuses, among other things, on the cost and product differentiation. The references concerning the textile PDP emphasize the conceptual design is related to the product success. However, this literature does not indicate how to implement the conceptual design in the textile environment. This dissertation proposes the development of a model and a tool for implementing conceptual phase for knitted products. First, it started with the research of some classic methodologies of PDP, the textile industry and its segments and the PDP in the textile industry. After that, the survey was conducted with companies working with knitted products in order to diagnose their PDPs. Then, the results were compared to bibliographical references in order to identify gaps in those practices. Based on the analysis that the conceptual phase is the most critical in practice, a methodology for the development of the conceptual phase was devised, based on Back and co-authors. Subsequently, a computational tool was implemented in order to generate records during all process. To validate the tool, the experiment was conducted simulating design situations. Finally, the participants answered a questionnaire regarding the model and tool performances. The results were positive, indicating that these model and tool are relevant for the development of knitted fabric, increasing assertiveness in its development.

A indústria têxtil brasileira se posiciona como a quinta maior produtora mundial neste segmento. Entretanto, se constata que seu desenvolvimento de produto é ineficiente, não fazendo uso das metodologias de processo de desenvolvimento de produto (PDP) já consagradas no segmento industrial. Especificamente no desenvolvimento do tecido de malha, recorre-se a experiência do técnico desenvolvedor, onde o retrabalho é constante e pautado na tentativa e erro, gerando atrasos no cronograma para o lançamento de uma coleção. No cotidiano das empresas, a etapa conceitual é a mais negligenciada ao se desenvolver uma malha. As metodologias clássicas de PDP indicam que a etapa do projeto conceitual se destaca incidindo, entre outros aspectos, no custo e na diferenciação do produto. As referências bibliográficas, relativas ao PDP têxtil enfatizam a etapa conceitual relacionando-a com o sucesso do produto. Porém, nessas literaturas não se encontram indicativos de como conduzir a etapa conceitual. A presente dissertação tem o objetivo de apresentar o desenvolvimento de um modelo e ferramenta para desenvolvimento de malhas, na etapa conceitual. Para tanto, foi realizado um levantamento bibliográfico sobre: algumas metodologias de PDP clássicas; a indústria têxtil e seus segmentos; e o PDP na indústria têxtil; para, posteriormente, executar um levantamento de campo junto à empresas desenvolvedoras de malha, visando um diagnóstico do seu PDP. Em seguida, os resultados obtidos no levantamento de campo foram comparados aos referenciais bibliográficos, para identificar as lacunas existentes na prática. Com a verificação de que a etapa conceitual é a mais crítica na prática, concebeu-se uma metodologia para desenvolvimento de malha na etapa conceitual, baseada em Back e co-autores. Posteriormente, foi construída uma ferramenta computacional onde a abordagem proposta se desenvolve, gerando registros de todo o processamento. Para validar a ferramenta, foi conduzido experimento simulando situações de projeto. Ao final, os participantes responderam um questionário referente às percepções sobre o modelo e a ferramenta. Os resultados obtidos foram positivos, indicando ser este modelo de grande valia para o desenvolvimento de malha, aumentando a assertividade no seu desenvolvimento. / The Brazilian textile industry is the fifth largest producer in the world. However, it has an inefficient product development process (PDP), not employing formal design methodologies, since some of them are already well established in the industrial segment. Specifically in the development of knitted fabric, the experience of the technical developer is fundamental, but it does not avoid reworking, which is most of the time guided by a trial and error approach, causing delays in the collections launching. Data from a field survey suggest that the conceptual design phase, for example, is one of the most neglected. The classical methodologies for PDP indicate that the stage of conceptual design is important because it focuses, among other things, on the cost and product differentiation. The references concerning the textile PDP emphasize the conceptual design is related to the product success. However, this literature does not indicate how to implement the conceptual design in the textile environment. This dissertation proposes the development of a model and a tool for implementing conceptual phase for knitted products. First, it started with the research of some classic methodologies of PDP, the textile industry and its segments and the PDP in the textile industry. After that, the survey was conducted with companies working with knitted products in order to diagnose their PDPs. Then, the results were compared to bibliographical references in order to identify gaps in those practices. Based on the analysis that the conceptual phase is the most critical in practice, a methodology for the development of the conceptual phase was devised, based on Back and co-authors. Subsequently, a computational tool was implemented in order to generate records during all process. To validate the tool, the experiment was conducted simulating design situations. Finally, the participants answered a questionnaire regarding the model and tool performances. The results were positive, indicating that these model and tool are relevant for the development of knitted fabric, increasing assertiveness in its development.

Dimensionierung und Konstruktion von Bewehrungstextilien für die Anwendung in Textilbeton werden in Abhängigkeit von der resultierenden Last im Bauteil durchgeführt. Um aus der Vielzahl möglicher Varianten von Bewehrungsstrukturen die passenden auszuwählen, wird ein reduziertes Beschreibungsschema zur Auswahl herangezogen. Als Anwendungsbeispiel wird eine komplexe Bewehrungsstruktur beschrieben, die für dünnwandige, selbsttragende Sandwichelemente genutzt wird. Die Sandwichelemente werden als Wandund Dachkonstruktion für ein 20 m² großes modulares Gebäude eingesetzt. Die Bewehrungsstrategie für die Elemente sowie die Herstellungstechnik und Prüfverfahren für die Bewehrung werden beschrieben. Zur Langzeitüberwachung der Sandwichelemente wird ein Monitoring-System verwendet.