In the Surface Development Test, self-perceived Sewing Expertise was significant in predicting participants' test scores. For the Paper Folding Test, Knitting and Crocheting Expertise were significant, suggesting expertise may mitigate age effects.; Spatial ability has been a topic of much research and debate over the past few decades. Yet, there are gaps in the current literature. Spatial ability refers to the aptitude of an individual to mentally rotate objects, visualize spaces, and recognize patterns (Linn & Petersen, 1985). A highly spatial task that is not addressed in research literature is crafting. Crafting may refer to knitting, crocheting, sewing, and other hobbies that include manipulations of materials. These crafts are spatially oriented, because they necessitate mental rotation, pattern recognition, and 3-D visualization to create an object. While research tends to favor males on certain spatial tests (Voyer, Voyer, & Bryden, 1995), research on the relationship between expertise and spatial ability has concentrated on traditionally male dominated domains, such as architecture and video games (Salthouse & Mitchell, 1990; Sims & Mayer, 2002). The traditionally female domain of needlework crafting expertise has not been studied empirically. First, a literature review is presented to give an overview of previous spatial ability research. The paper then describes the needlework crafts of sewing, knitting, and crocheting, including their historical significance and the spatial processes involved. A study was conducted to test the hypothesis that more expertise in needlework crafts will correlate with better performance on spatial ability tests. Three hundred and four adult women (ages 18-77) completed the study. Participant experience level was determined by self-perceived level of crafting expertise. Participants performed three spatial ability tests from the ETS Factor Reference Kit (Ekstrom et al., 1976): Paper Folding, Surface Development, and Card Rotations. Results indicated that age was correlated negatively with performance in all spatial tests. Only age was significant in the Card Rotations Test.

Exploring the expressive abilities of overspunnen woollen-based knits . This project focused on the influence of over-spun woollen yarns in knitted material and the overall material quality. The use of over-twisted yarns focuses on the reactionary design and explores the colour rituals and patterns of the Igbo tribe in Nigeria. This exploration of heritage opened up new patterns and expressive material development methods with a regenerative alternative to fossil fuel-based elastics. The exploration was focused on the transformative possibilities of knitted textile tubes that interact with elasticity activated by the body. Furthermore, it is defined through technical knits and sensitivity to poetic aesthetics. This artistic and poetic expression is researched using colour and patterns. The colours used are based on the original colours utilized in Uli, a practice of body painting. The texture is inspired by the concept of ritual pollution, which is closely linked to the earth. The patterns are developed through drawings on the body employed in the Nigerian practice of Uli and then translated into jacquard knits. Close attention is paid to in conveying dynamics and movement by utilizing opaque and non-opaque areas, focusing on elastic and non-elastic properties. The results show a great range in conveying adaptive colour, textures, and interactive patterns for the body through woollen-based elastic yarns. This project showcases the great potential and encourages rethinking of elastic materials.

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Disrupting patterns places itself in the textile design field, more precisely in knitting. The aim is to explore cable knitting in combination with fair isle and intarsia designs with the motivation to disrupt the cable structure. The purpose is to give a bold, powerful expression to the cable, compared to the calm, classic look of the Aran sweaters, and in that way give a new perspective on tradition. The project is made by hand on a hand knitting machine for a knitwear design context. The intention is to bring back the value of the textile by focusing on the craftmanship. It is also made as a comment on fast fashion by disrupting the methods of working in the industry. The result is a knit design collection which displays three methods of working with cables. Traditional cable technique, moving stitches and giant cables. These methods are combined with intarsia and fair isle patterns. The methods can be applied in a knitwear design context, for example on a knitted garment. The focus of Disrupting patterns lies in the craft of knitting and is a comment on industrial fabrication and fast fashion implication on sustainable design. While the sustainable aspect is important, the main result of this project lies in the craft of knitting and to show a new method of working with cables and colour pattern techniques.

In this study we looked into an existing textile baby stroller seat and investigated whether there can be any advantage in changing the material to a spacer fabric from perspectives such as functionality, comfort, and sustainability. The subject of 3D knitting, and advanced knitting is being researched more and more because of its versatility in producing and changing parameters of knitted high quality products, but there is a lack of studies done on comfort for children when it comes to knitted spacer fabrics and not many studies have been done on spacer fabrics used for baby seats in strollers or other types of seats for children. A reason for further development and research in the area of 3D knitting is that it could be giving products a better appearance, functionality or potential for more sustainable pro-duction which could lead to better possibilities of producing more attractive advanced textile products. This could in turn make the producer more attractive among customers as well as stand out more amongst competitors on the market. Recently there has been attention on the use of warp knitted spacer fabrics in the application of cushioning to protect against impact. Thermoregulation, compression, air permeability and good energy absorption are some characteristics of spacer fabrics which are being further investigated in this study (Gokarneshan 2015). Another reason for further investigation of spacer fabrics, and their good cushioning properties, in child products is that it was shown in a previous study that children who are transported in carriers for bicycles are exposed to more vibration compared to children who are transported in automotive rides (Rothhamel 2023). A reason for examining the possibilities of replacing polyurethane foam with spacer fabric is that PU foams generally have lower air permeability in com-bination with higher heat resistance which can lead to problems regarding comfort. (Gokarneshan 2015). Testing of different spacer fabric samples was carried out based on air permeability, burst strength, and moisture management. These tests were then evaluated to determine the optimal parameters of a spacer fabric for increased comfort and functionality in an outdoor child product. Other tests that were carried out were specific tests for child products such bite test, finger probe test, and pulling test to examine the safety of each sample. We concluded that the optimal spacer fabric should be constructed of polyester rather than cotton to have as good wicking properties as possible. The fabric should have one side of the spacer fabric that does not consist of mesh so that the requirements from the finger probe test will be fulfilled. The other side of the spacer fabric should be constructed of a mesh structure to ensure good properties of air permeability. The holes should, however, not be too big since this might be less comfortable against the skin. The mesh structure recommended for this purpose is a hexagonal mesh which results in both good permeability of both water and air flow. The fabric should also be constructed with a multifilament for the spacer yarn for safety reasons.

Zu Beginn des Forschungsvorhabens wurden im Rahmen der Teilprojekte B1 und B2 des SFB 532 alkalibeständige Glas- und Carbonrovings eingesetzt, die zu offenmaschigen 2D-Textilien verarbeitet wurden. Untersuchungen des Verbund- und des Tragverhaltens der Verstärkungsstrukturen in Pull-Out- und Dehnkörperversuchen haben gezeigt, dass das Potential der Verstärkungsfasern aufgrund einer unvollständiger Durchtränkung der Bewehrung nicht vollständig ausgeschöpft werden kann. Auch Defizite bei der Produktionstechnik wurden erkannt und für zukünftige Entwicklungen analysiert. Um das Potential der verwendeten Verstärkungsfaser vollständiger auszuschöpfen, wurden innovative Garnkonstruktionen, die sich positiv auf den inneren und/oder den äußeren Verbund auswirken, entwickelt und erprobt. Anhand von Versuchsreihen auf der Textilebene wurden unterschiedliche Textilparameter, wie Art der Bindung, Gittergröße und Wirkfadenspannung, identifiziert, die unmittelbar die Tragfähigkeit der Verbundbauteile beeinflussen. Für die gängigen Produktionstechniken Laminieren, Gießen, Spritzen, Schleudern und Extrudieren wurden entsprechende Bewehrungskonstruktionen abgeleitet, die den Anforderungen des jeweiligen Prozess angepasst wurden. Ein weiterer Punkt der Forschungsaktivitäten stellte die Entwicklung der Maschinentechnik zur Herstellung von Verstärkungstextilien dar. Am Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) der RWTH Aachen University wurde in Zusammenarbeit mit Industriepartnern ein Maschinenkonzept entwickelt und umgesetzt, das die Herstellung von 3D-Abstandsgewirken mit einer freien Gestaltung der Deckflächen mit marktrelevanten Produktionsgeschwindigkeiten ermöglicht. Zur gezielten Einstellung der Wirkfadenspannung wurde ein Regelungssystem konzipiert und technisch umgesetzt, mit dem eine reproduzierbare Fertigung von textilen Verstärkungsstrukturen möglich wird.

Tillsammans med företaget Houdini Sportswear har det här projektets ämne och avgränsningar tagits fram. Houdini är ett svenskt klädföretag som designar friluftskläder av hög kvalitet och med stort fokus på funktion och komfort. De letar ständigt efter nya lösningar för utveckling kring smartare materialval, förbättrad funktion och komfort och mindre materialåtgång. I det här projektet vill Houdini undersöka hur man kan utveckla förhållandet mellan värmeisolering och vikt i flatstickade textila strukturer. Genom att öka textilens värmeisolerande förmåga med fokus på minskad vikt kan både materialåtgång och ökad funktion och komfort nås. En av de viktigaste faktorerna som bidrar till hög värmeisolerande förmåga är mängden instängd stilla luft i den textila strukturen. En tät ytstruktur och mycket volym med många luftfickor är därför intressant för att behålla och immobilisera luften i varan. Syftet med studien är att undersöka hur justeringar av parametrar i en distanstextil, stickad på flatstickmaskin påverkar den värmeisolerande förmågan. Tillsammans med Houdini har en viktbegränsning satts på 400 g/m2 och genom hela studien används endast en typ av ullgarn med garngrovlek Nm 48/2 för att skapa en vara som är i monomaterial och som relativt lätt kan brytas ner.   För att testa den värmeisolerande förmågan hos textilier idag använder Houdini och flera andra företag standardiserade testmetoder. På forskningsinstitutet Swerea IVF finns möjligheten att testa sina textilier med vald testmetod. Dessa metoder är dock otillgängliga och kräver avancerad utrustning som kan försvåra processen och ta lång tid. Studiens syfte är därför även att ta fram och jämföra en egen, mer lättillgänglig, framtagen testmetod för värmeisolering med två standardiserade testmetoder, SS-­ISO 5085-­1:2004 och ISO 11092:2014, för att se om och hur resultaten varierar mellan dem.   En förstudie genomförs där olika bindningar och två egna testmetoder för värmeisolering tas fram. En av testmetoderna och en distanstextil utvecklas vidare i huvudstudien. Fokus ligger på variationer av distanstrådens masklängd och placering. Samtliga prover från huvudstudien testas på den egna testmetoden och vissa utvalda prover testas på de två nämnda standardiserade testmetoderna på Swerea IVF. Sedan görs en jämförelse mellan resultaten.   Resultatet visar att det inte finns något tydligt samband mellan ökad masklängd och ökad värmeisoleringsförmåga. Däremot kan vissa slutsatser dras om att ökade intervaller av distanstrådens placering kan öka den värmeisolerande förmågan. Detta ökar dock även vikten. Resultat från mätningar med tre olika testmetoder visar att rangordningen av provers värmeisolerande förmåga skiljer sig mellan de olika metoderna. Den egna testmetoden bör därför vidareutvecklas men anses ändå ha potential för att jämföra provers värmeisolerande förmåga. / This study is a collaboration with the sportswear company Houdini Sportswear. They are looking for new ways to improve function and comfort in their garments with less material waste and choosing more sustainable materials. The aim of this study is to investigate the relationship between heat and weight in flat bed knitted spacer structures and what parameters that affects it. By creating a material with high heat insulating properties and with focus on reducing the weight it is possible to reduce the material waste and to achieve an improved function. One of the most important factors contributing to high insulation value is the amount of entrapped still air within the textile structure. This project therefore investigates how the stitch length and the placement of the spacer thread can affect the amount of air within the structure and thereby the thermal insulation. Together with Houdini a weight limit has been set to 400 g/m2 and only one type of wool yarn is used throughout the project in order to make a mono-­material fabric that can more easily degrade.   When measuring the thermal insulation properties of a fabric standardized methods are often used. These might have advanced equipment and be hard to access.The second aim of this project is therefore to develop a more accessible test method for measurement of thermal insulation in textiles and also to compare the results from the own method with the results from two standardized methods.   A pre study is made where different structures and two own developed test methods are being investigated. One of the test methods and a spacer binding is further developed in the main study where focus lies on reproducibility of the tests, and variations of the spacer thread stitch length and placement. All of the samples from the main study is tested on the own developed test method and some chosen samples are tested on two standardized test methods: ISO 5085-­1:2004 and ISO 11092:2014 at the Swedish research institute Swerea IVF. A comparison is made between the results from the three methods.   The results show that tests with our own developed test method has not been able to show a clear relationship between heat insulation and the changes of parameters in different textiles. Although, the samples that have been tested indicate that there might be a relationship between high heat insulating properties when the spacer thread is knitting more frequently. When comparing the results from the three different test methods the own developed method show different raking from the two standardized methods. The own developed test method should therefore be further developed. But still, after discussion with Valter Dejke, researcher at Swerea IVF, and Sibel Okcabol, quality manager at Swerea IVF, it is believed that the own test method could be used for comparing thermal insulating properties between textiles.

Em contrapartida ao fast fashion está o slow fashion, uma busca pela retomada dos meios de produção da cadeia têxtil, da valorização das técnicas tradicionais de criação e desenvolvimento e da desasceleração do consumo. Parte deste movimento incentiva a volta ao aprendizado de técnicas manuais de tecimento, como, por exemplo, o tricô, o crochê, a costura em máquinas domésticas, o tear e até a fiação. O presente trabalho tem como objetivo investigar e experimentar soluções ambientalmente sustentáveis para resíduos de malharia circular de algodão, utilizando técnicas manuais de tecimento, como o tricô e a matriz morfológica de Zwicky para desenvolver novos produtos de moda. Como matérias-primas principais foram utilizados resíduos de malha de três fontes: compra de novelos de produtores que trabalham diretamente com empresas que descartam as oréolas de malhas circulares; tecidos defeituosos descartados por empresas; peças descartadas por consumidores. A proposta para o desenvolvimento de novos produtos a partir de reuso de materiais, utilizou os seguintes métodos: o brainstorming, a matriz morfológica e o método de Pugh. Para a elaboração desse trabalho, foi feito um estudo bibliográfico da cadeira têxtil para compreender em quais momentos são gerados resíduos de malharia circular e como eles podem ser aproveitados para a elaboração do experimento deste estudo. Para direcionar ao ambientalmente sustentável, conceitos de sustentabilidade aplicados ao design e à moda, assim como conceitos de reciclagem, também foram estudados. A visão sobre técnicas manuais de tecimento e como estão inseridas no contexto atual de criatividade foi subsídio teórico para justificar a utilização do tricô para a experimentação e criação de peças de vestuário e acessórios. A geração de uma matriz morfológica de Fritz Zwicky foi a base metodológica para desenvolver novos produtos. O peso da matéria-prima resultou em produtos pesados para o uso em vestuário, mas aceitáveis para acessórios / Slow fashion opposes fast fashion as a search of reassuming the fashion productions means, valuing traditional handcrafts and slowing down consuming. This work aims to investigate and experiment environmentally sustainable solutions for circular knit waste, using handmade techniques like knitting and Zwickys morphological chart to develop new creative fashion garments. The works starts with a bibliographic study research on textile chain to understand in what circumstances the development of circular knit generates waste and how it can be used for this experiment. To base the study on environmentally sustainable solutions, a base study on fashion and design sustainability concept, as well as recycling, was also made. Handmade textiles, like knitting, and the creative view of handcrafts nowadays were also studied to justify it as a creative mean of experimentation for garments and accessories. Zwickys morphological chart generation was the methodological mean of developing new products. The use of circular knit waste to develop new products resulted in heavy garments, but it was well seen as a new yarn for handmade accessories

This work places itself in the field of textile design, knitting and three-dimensional objects. The primary motive is to investigate flat knitting as a technique to design form. The aim is to explore the possibilities within flat knitting in order to explore the relationship between knit and non-textile components to achieve three-dimensional forms for sitting. The design process consisted of experimental sketching on a flat knitting machine and small prototypes were produced. Rib, plain knit and mesh structures were tested in combination with partial knit, intarsia and plating. These bindings and techniques were combined with steel constructions to explore possibilities for shaping and function. By integrating a non-textile component as support in the knitted samples three-dimensional objects are created. The outcome of the study is a collection of knitted objects. Common for these is that they all suggest a function in relation to seating. The textile in the construction serves a function, an aesthetic expression and as the connection material in the construction. For further development, the possibility of creating textiles for furniture with capabilities for changes in expression and function can be explored.

Följs kravspecifikationerna? I följande uppsats analyseras och granskas om producenter följer kraven i kravspecifikationen, som modeföretaget skickar med orderbeställningen. Med syfte att, genom en kvalitativ samt experimentell undersökning, komma fram till om kraven som gäller tunna trikåtröjor av mörk kulör, i modeföretagets kravspecifikation, uppfylls vid produktion. Genom kvalitativa intervjuer med kunniga inom områdena, kvalitettester, trikåmaterial, produktion utomlands och kravspecifikationer, kunde författarna få svar på om det sker att producenter bortser från krav i kravspecifikationen och varför dem troligtvis gör det. Genom en experimentell undersökning har författarna utgått från standarder i kravspecifikationen samt testat och analyserat två tröjor från 2014 års säsong med två tröjor från 2015 års säsong, för att bedöma om de skiljde sig åt, då de skall vara producerade utifrån samma kravspecifikation. I resultatet presenteras den experimentella undersökningen; hur författarna gick tillväga för att få fram det mest sanningsenliga resultatet samt citat från de kvalitativa intervjuerna. Citaten styrker författarnas spekulationer och teorier om att somliga producenter bortser från krav i kravspecifikationen. Vidare i diskussion- och analyskapitlet analyseras och diskuteras resultat med teorier och citat. De slutsatser som författarna kan dra utifrån de kvalitativa intervjuerna och den experimentella undersökningen är, att det är vanligt förekommande, att producenter medvetet väljer att bortse från vissa krav i kravspecifikationen. Dock görs det inte endast för att tjäna pengar, utan det handlar likaså om att hålla deadlines och att hålla sin kund nöjd, för att på så vis behålla relationen. Det kan också handla om olika kulturskillnader och språksvårigheter i kommunikationen där kravspecifikationerna inte är tillräckligt tydligt förklarande, vilket resulterar i att producenten får vidta åtgärder och uppskatta själv vad kunden efterfrågar. / Do the producers follow the specifications? This study analyses and reviews if producers follow the requirements of the fashion company’s specification. The purpose was to, through a qualitative and experimental research, decide if all the requirements that involve dark coloured thin knitted t-shirts, of the company's specifications are applied during the production. Through interviews with people with great knowledge within the subjects; quality controls, knitted materials, production abroad and specifications, the authors’ got answers to whether producers ignore the requirements in the specification, as well as why. Through an experimental study, following the standards in the specifications, two shirts from season 2014 and two shirts from season 2015 were examined and compared, to see if they differed. All shirts were supposed to be produced by the same specifications. In the result, the experimental study presents; how the authors proceeded to truthful results. Quotes from the qualitative interviews are also presented. The quotations prove the authors' speculations and theories, regarding the issue of some manufacturers ignoring requirements in the specifications. Furthermore, in the discussion- and analysis chapter, results are analysed together with theories and quotes. The conclusions that can be drawn from the qualitative interviews and the experimental study, is that it is a common problem. Producers deliberately choose to overlook certain requirements in the specifications. However, it is not only in order to make more money, but it is also about managing deadlines and keeping customers satisfied, in order to maintain relationships. The problem is also based on cultural differences and language difficulties in communication, where the specifications are not sufficiently clear enough, resulting in the producer must take action and appreciate what the customer wants.