Submitted by admin tede (tede@pucgoias.edu.br) on 2016-09-19T12:39:34Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Carla Simone Castro da Silva.pdf: 3389973 bytes, checksum: 874a4f59c57f38f70fd5c49fe3cd4980 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2016-09-19T12:39:34Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Carla Simone Castro da Silva.pdf: 3389973 bytes, checksum: 874a4f59c57f38f70fd5c49fe3cd4980 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2016-04-25 / The world of luxury has seducing consumers for centuries. Since the times of royalty its symbols are flaunted as objects of power and status, arousing the wish and provoking social greed. Therefore, the market of counterfeits is growing every day, offering this consumer group the opportunity to enter into a distinct social status, where the beautiful and shiny logo of the desired brand signals a passport to all that it represents. These theses aimed to investigate how the context and social environment can influence consumers choose to acquire symbolic brand products although they are not authentic and how this behavior is accepted in society. Two studies have been conducted, and aimed: a) evaluate the measures of knowledge and quality of a set of marks displayed in the handling of two contexts (luxury x neutral) between buyers and non-buyers of counterfeits, for both original products and their correspondence with counterfeit products; b) measure the effects of layout on verbal responses of counterfeit buyers and non-buyers in relation to its evaluation of the purchasers behavior; c) verify the effect of instructions in publicity campaigns about the consumers behavior of counterfeits products as strategy to inhibit this consumption. The results indicated that the brands with the most informative boost level are those with the highest level of knowledge and quality, which reflects the willingness of consumers to pay for these goods, so much to original as counterfeit products. The Study 2 also revealed that there is an immediate effect of instructions correlating the organized crime with the falsification industry, signaling that this may be a possible strategy. / O universo do luxo encanta e seduz consumidores há séculos. Desde os tempos da realeza seus símbolos são ostentados como objetos de poder e status, despertando o desejo e provocando a cobiça social. Desta forma, o mercado de falsificações cresce a cada dia, oferecendo a um grupo de consumidores a oportunidade de adentrar a em um posicionamento social distinto, onde o belo e reluzente logotipo das marcas sinaliza um passaporte de inclusão a tudo o que este grupo almeja. Esta tese procurou investigar o quanto o contexto e o ambiente social podem influenciar consumidores a escolherem produtos de marcas simbólicas ainda que não sejam legítimos e como este comportamento é aceito em sociedade. Foram realizados dois estudos que se propuseram: a) avaliar as medidas de conhecimento e qualidade de um conjunto de marcas apresentadas na manipulação de dois contextos (luxo x acadêmico) entre compradores e não compradores de falsificações, tanto para produtos originais e sua correspondência com produtos falsificados; b) mensurar o efeito de leiaute sobre as respostas verbais de compradores e não compradores em relação à sua avaliação sobre o comportamento de compradores de falsificações; c) verificar o efeito de instruções em campanhas publicitárias sobre o comportamento dos consumidores de produtos falsificados como estratégia para inibir este consumo. Os resultados do Estudo 1 indicaram que as marcas com maior nível de reforço informativo são aquelas com maior nível de conhecimento e qualidade, o que reflete na disposição dos consumidores em pagar por bens destas, tanto para produtos originais quanto falsificados. O Estudo 2 revelou ainda que existe um efeito imediato de instruções correlacionando o crime organizado com a industria da falsificação, sinalizando que esta é uma estratégia possível.

O objetivo do presente trabalho é analisar os cruzeiros fluviais de luxo que navegam no rio Amazonas, considerando as bases normativas relacionadas à sua atuação em território brasileiro, assim como o uso corporativo que fazem do território. Para tanto, as localidades de Macapá, Belém, Santarém, Alter do Chão, Boca da Valéria, Parintins e Manaus constituíram bases empíricas da análise, pois se tratam dos locais onde os referidos cruzeiros realizam paradas ao longo do rio. Como procedimento metodológico foi realizado levantamento bibliográfico de fontes secundárias e a realização de um trabalho de campo por todas as localidades acima citadas. Devido ao objeto de estudo ser os cruzeiros de luxo, foi realizado um levantamento de informações sobre o mercado de luxo, pois o setor de cruzeiros é segmentado, a exemplo da atuação do mercado de luxo. Após este levantamento de informações foi realizada a análise da navegação dos cruzeiros fluviais de luxo no rio Amazonas, envolvendo as empresas de cruzeiro, as entidades portuárias e as secretarias estaduais de turismo. Buscamos demonstrar como ocorre a divisão do trabalho no espaço e a atuação das empresas de cruzeiros fluviais de luxo que operam no local. Ao atuarem de forma cooperativa entre si, são produzidas redes de conexão no território que as unem numa lógica particular. A divisão territorial de uma empresa é manifestada no território à medida que ela constitui sua base territorial de existência e o território passa a ser ocupado de acordo com lógicas escalares diversas (global, nacional e intra-urbano). A privatização do território a partir do relacionamento entre as empresas ocorre com a utilização de recursos públicos, possibilitada pelos sistemas de engenharia presentes. Constatamos que ocorre a oligopolização e o uso corporativo do rio Amazonas, principalmente nos locais de paradas dos navios. As empresas atuam de forma sazonal, identificada na forma de temporadas. Esta sazonalidade está ligada às estratégias corporativas que analisam a oferta de cruzeiros, a demanda de turistas, os custos logísticos e o tamanho dos navios, que devem atender às especificações técnicas dos portos e locais por onde trafegam. Além disso, as empresas promovem uma circulação seletiva, demandam melhorias nas infraestruturas portuárias e a seletividade das localidades por onde atuam. / The purpose of the present work is to analyze the luxury river cruises that navigate the Amazon River, considering the normative bases related to its performances in the Brazilian territory, as well as the corporate use they make of the territory. For this purpose, the locations of Macapá, Belém, Santarém, Alter do Chão, Boca de Valéria, Parintins and Manaus were empirical bases of the analysis, since they are the places where the mentioned cruises stop along the Amazon River. As a methodological procedure a bibliographic survey of secondary sources and a fieldwork was carried out by all the aforementioned localities. In this fieldwork, researches were carried out in universities and in public and private organizations with direct or indirect relation with the luxury river cruises in the region. Due to the object of study being the luxury cruises, a survey of information about the luxury market was also carried out, as the cruise sector is segmented, like the luxury market. After this survey, the analysis of the navigation of the luxury river cruises in the Amazon River was carried out, involving cruise companies, port entities and state tourist offices. We sought to demonstrate how the division of labor and the performance of luxury river cruise companies in the Amazon River occur. By working cooperatively with one another, connection networks are produced in the territory that unites them in a particular logic. The companie\'s territorial division is stated as it constitutes its territorial base of existence and the territory starts to be occupied according to diverse scalar logics (global, national and intra-urban).The privatization of the territory from the relationship between the companies occurs with the use of public resources, made possible by the present engineering systems. We have observed that the formation of an oligopoly and the corporate use of the Amazon River occur, especially in the places where the ships stop. The companies act in a seasonal way, identified in the form of seasons. This seasonality is linked to corporate strategies that analyze cruises, tourist demand, logistics costs and the size of ships, which must meet the technical specifications of the ports and places they travel. In addition, the companies promote a selective circulation, demand improvements in the port infrastructures and the selectivity of the localities where they operate.

O luxo é um setor que tem cada vez mais despertado o interesse de acadêmicos e profissionais de marketing, não só pela importância econômica que representa para alguns países, mas também pela sua tendência de crescimento em mercados emergentes, favorecida pelo aumento da renda disponível e do tamanho da clientela potencial. Especificamente no Brasil, o mercado do luxo tem experimentado um incremento anual significativo e superior ao da economia como um todo. A gestão das empresas atuantes nesse mercado apresenta desafios de particular interesse para os estudiosos e praticantes do marketing, pois os produtos luxuosos possuem elevado grau de valores intangíveis, subjetivos e sociais agregados, que são determinantes para a formação de sua demanda e de uma parcela considerável do preço final. O cenário de crescente competição e internacionalização exige processos gerenciais cada vez mais orientados para o mercado, nos quais análises da concorrência e do perfil dos consumidores são formas de gerar um maior valor percebido pelo cliente. Não obstante, criar e entregar esse valor exige uma clara compreensão de sua natureza e dimensões. Nesse contexto, este trabalho teve por objetivo propor e testar um modelo conceitual integrador para o Valor Percebido pelo Cliente dos produtos de luxo, buscando ampliar o corpo teórico sobre o constructo e fundamentar o desenvolvimento de estratégias de marketing. A partir da análise crítica de modelos propostos por diferentes autores, de reflexões teóricas sobre o conceito do luxo, e com base na opinião de consumidores do setor, foram desenvolvidos o modelo teórico e seus respectivos itens de mensuração, testados e refinados pela técnica de modelagem de equações estruturais PLS-SEM em termos de sua confiabilidade e validade. Os resultados mostraram haver um impacto considerável das duas dimensões dos sacrifícios percebidos (não monetários e monetários) sobre o valor percebido total dos produtos prestigiosos, bem como efeitos menores, porém significativos, das dimensões dos benefícios psicológicos, sociais e intangíveis. Os benefícios tangíveis também demonstraram impacto sobre o valor percebido final, porém em menor grau. Tais resultados contribuem para a ampliação do corpo teórico de marketing sobre esse tema, ao propor e validar um modelo mais abrangente que integra os existentes e, ao mesmo tempo, preenche lacunas observadas. Em termos gerenciais, o conhecimento dos aspectos mais relevantes da percepção dos consumidores sobre o valor entregue pelos bens luxuosos é fundamental para gerenciar as marcas, direcionar os esforços de comunicação de marketing e desenvolver estratégias de mercado eficazes, levando em conta as diferentes dimensões de benefícios e sacrifícios propostos pelo estudo. / The luxury industry has been raising greater interest among marketing scholars and professionals, not only due to its economic relevance in some countries, but also because of its growth trend in emerging markets, spurred by increases in disposable income and a greater diversity of its target audiences. Specifically in Brazil, the luxury market has experienced significant annual growth rates, well above those of the total economy. The management of luxury companies presents challenges that are particularly interesting for marketing scholars and practitioners, as prestige products possess high levels of intangible, subjective and social added value, which are determinant for their demand and final price formation. In the present scenario, where growing competition and internationalization demand increasingly market-oriented managerial processes, competition and consumer behavior analysis is a necessary tool to create higher customer perceived value. Nevertheless, creating and delivering value demands a clear understanding of its nature and dimensions. Thus the purpose of this study: to propose and test an integrative conceptual framework for luxury products Customer Perceived Value, aiming to increase the construct\'s theoretical understanding and to serve as a basis for developing marketing strategies. Building upon a critical analysis of models proposed by various authors, the theory on the luxury concept, and luxury consumers\' opinions, the conceptual model and its measurement items were developed, tested and refined in terms of validity and reliability through the structural equation modeling technique PLS-SEM. The findings revealed a considerable impact of the two perceived sacrifice dimensions (non-monetary and monetary) on luxury products total perceived value, as well as smaller, though significant, effects of the psychological, social and intangible benefits dimensions. Tangible benefits have also shown an impact on the final perceived value, but to a lesser extent. Those findings contribute to the marketing theory on the subject by proposing and validating a more comprehensive framework that synthetizes preexisting ones and, at the same time, fills out gaps found in the literature. In terms of managerial practice, a better understanding of the most relevant aspects of luxury customer perceived value is vital for brand management, marketing communications and the development of effective marketing strategies that build upon the various benefit and sacrifice dimensions proposed in this study.

Orientador: Luci Regina Muzzeti / Resumo: Esta pesquisa origina-se de indagações presentes tanto na vivência quanto na observação da pesquisadora em relação à prostituição de luxo. Compreende-se que, na abordagem dos temas prostituição, sexo ou sexualidade, é inevitável deparar-se com preconceitos e visões enrijecidas, pois o “sexo é o grande problema, é o grande interdito das pessoas”, sendo controlado, legitimado ou negado por meio da materialização do corpo da prostituta. Portanto, no que tange à prostituição, os enunciados presentes na história demonstram a prostituta em um papel que ora assume um caráter libertário, ora pejorativo e pecaminoso. Isto posto, essa pesquisa se propôs a analisar a construção e a subjetivação da identidade da prostituta, buscou-se compreender com as putas são percebidas historicamente e como as próprias putas constroem sua subjetividade, seu modus operandi, imerso a relações de saber e poder com base na teoria da Análise do Discurso (AD) de Michel Foucault. Para tal, elaborou-se uma pesquisa de campo de natureza qualitativa, onde entrevistou-se 5 prostitutas de luxo que atendem na cidade de São Paulo e Zona Metropolitana. As entrevistas foram realizadas em uma sala comercial no Centro da cidade de São Paulo. E os dados foram compilados em duas categorias de analise, denominadas repectivamente: as relações de saber e relações de poder. Como resultados da pesquisa, notam-se que os ditos sobre a prostituta são construções que visam o controle desses corpos, com a finalidade de produzir o... (Resumo completo, clicar acesso eletrônico abaixo) / Mestre

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Nous nous focalisons dans cette recherche sur les consommateurs chinois qui vivent à l'étranger (en Europe et aux Etats-Unis), pour analyser dans quelle mesure les valeurs et les comportements des consommateurs chinois vis-à-vis des produits et des services de luxe peuvent être modifiés à la suite de leurs contacts avec les cultures européennes (française et allemande) et la culture américaine ; elle vise également à identifier le rôle que les valeurs traditionnelles chinoises jouent dans ce contexte. Les résultats sont présentés dans trois essais distincts. Dans le premier essai, l'influence de la culture française et de la culture allemande sur la consommation des produits de luxe des Chinois est identifiée en interviewant un groupe de 22 consommateurs chinois qui vit en Europe. Dans le deuxième essai, nous nous efforçons de développer et de valider une échelle de mesure des perceptions des valeurs du luxe en Chine et aux Etats-Unis. La conceptualisation transculturelle de ce construit des valeurs du luxe est également étudiée, en utilisant deux échantillons d'étudiants (Chinois et Américains), et deux échantillons de consommateurs adultes chinois (qui vivent en Chine et aux Etats-Unis). Dans le troisième essai, avec les mêmes échantillons que ceux du deuxième essai, nous visons à clarifier comment les Chinois qui vivent aux Etats-Unis modifient leurs valeurs et leurs comportements pour se conformer aux nouvelles normes de la consommation des produits et des services de luxe. Après des analyses, nous conclussions que les consommateurs immigrés se comportent parfois comme les caméléons pour se fondre dans les normes culturelles du consommateur du pays d'accueil. / In this research we focus on the Chinese consumers living in the West (Europe and U.S.), exploring how European cultures (French and German) and American culture influence their luxury consumption values and behaviors, and meanwhile seek to identify the role of Chinese cultural values within this context. These results are presented in three essays. The first essay focuses on exploring the influence of French and German cultures on European-Chinese consumers' luxury consumption, by analyzing 22 qualitative interviews carried out with the Chinese consumers living in Europe. The second essay seeks to develop and validate a scale measuring luxury value perceptions in China and in the United States, and to assess the cross-cultural conceptualization of this luxury value construct, using two student samples (Chinese n=92 & Americans n=92) and two Chinese adult samples (in China n=255 & in the U.S. n=217). Using the same samples as the second essay, we further investigates in the third essay that, the extent to which immigrant Chinese consumers would change in order to comply with the new cultural consensus in luxury consumption. A series of analyses suggest a conclusion that immigrant consumers tend to acquire the prevailing consensus of the host culture, and behave like chameleons, blending into the surrounding environment.

The implementation of this research increases the awareness of the value for luxury fashion brands in utilizing social media as a communication channel to reach young consumers globally. It provides a general understanding of young consumers’ perception of luxury fashion brands on social media in regards to geographic cultural background, attitude towards new luxury, and preferred way of contacts. / Program: Master Programme in Fashion Management

Purpose: The purpose of this study is to critically examine the marketing strategy and marketing communication within a luxury fashion SME, the case of Mary Katrantzou. Methodology: This report has been conducted in a qualitative approach and six employees at the case study company have been interviewed. Three of the respondents are a part of the marketing department at the company, two are a part of the sales department and one member of the ecommerce team was interviewed. Moreover the interview approach was semi-structured interviews, and one on one interviews were conducted as well as written ones. Due to the access in the company the written interviews could be followed up by additional questions. Findings: Mary Katrantzou works with the appropriate traditional tools for luxury fashion brands, apart from advertisement, as well as working with the digital channels most suitable. Accordingly the theory a cohesive brand identity is vital when it comes to luxury fashion firms, and the findings in this area showed that the company does not have a coherent brand identity that permeates the whole organization. Instead the opinions of the six respondents differed. Moreover the empirical findings showed that collaborating with other companies could increase brand awareness. Conclusion: Mary Katrantzou’s marketing strategy is, accordingly the theory collected, in line with how luxury fashion brands should work with marketing. For the future however the company could invest in one more traditional tool in the form of advertisement. Figuring out the true brand identity of the company is also of importance. Moreover collaborations have according to this study the ability to increase brand awareness and should therefore be of interest to research further in the near future. Value/originality: The intimate access in the case study company in this report should be of high interest due to its rareness. From the inside examined fashion luxury brands are seldom researched, which adds value and originality to this study. / Program: Textilekonomutbildningen

Purpose: Can luxury fashion brands use websites and web-shops and still keep a sense of drama and exclusivity around their brand and at the same time avoid brand dilution?Background: The e-commerce opened up for new possibilities for the luxury fashion brands but due to the dotcom crash around the year of 2000 did many of them become reluctant to the Internet as a selling channel. LVMH was one of the first in this genre to start up a web- shop. It name was eluxury (eluxury.com), and sold products from LVMH’s brands like Louis Vuitton, Dior and Donna Karan. It started off in the US market and then spread to France and the United Kingdom. This inspired other brands like Gucci and Armani to also invest in e-commerce. Even though the success of these web-shops is there still an ongoing debate about whether or not luxury brands should adopt e-commerce. The major concern is the dilution of features like exclusivity and prestige of the brands, if they are present in this channel.Method: To meet the purpose a qualitative research approach was chosen. The qualitative data was collected through eight in-depth interviews with luxury fashion interested Swedish females. The answers from the interviews generated a picture of their online shopping habits, and the likes and dislikes of the websites and web-shops of Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Dior and Gucci. In addition it showed what makes a web-shop exclusive and well designed from a consumer/visitor point of view.Conclusion: The result of this research showed that it is good for luxury fashion brands to have distribution online because it makes the products a lot easier to get hold of for the consumers. Although there were several criteria that was needed to be fulfilled in order to design and create a well functioning and good web-shop. It was evident from the result of the study that the Internet can really be a good distribution channel, with only a little risk of brand dilution depending on how the web-shop is designed. To summarize, we say that a good website and web-shop meeting the criteria of the consumers can really create a stronger brand image and online sales, although a luxury fashion brand should also have good physical stores, a web-shop can in many ways really be a very suitable complement for marketing and distribution. / Program: Magisterutbildning i fashion management med inriktning modemarknadsföring

AbstractBackground: Countries can be seen as brands (nation brands) with brand values that transmitto the country’s products. Country-of-origin (COO), the brands nationality, links the productto an associative network of cultural shared national stereotypes. Through associating thebrand with a country or a region, the credibility of the brand can increase and strengthen thebrand. Therefore COO is used in marketing to position a brand.Purpose: The purpose of this study is to examine how luxury fashion brands communicatetheir national identity through analyzing their advertising. The brands examined in the studyare the French brand Chanel and the British brand Burberry. To be able to answer the researchquestion, the brands’ advertising campaigns were analyzed to see whether they contain abrand personality built on a national stereotype or if there is a clear national theme or storieslinking to the national identity.Methodology:The national stereotypes of the two countries were examined through a pilotstudy. The advertising campaigns were analyzed by using an analyze model that wasdeveloped from image analyzing theories. It was then connected to the theory and the nationalstereotypes that evolved from the pilot study.Results: The results revealed in this study shows that the two different brands use theirnational identity in different ways. While Burberry has a clear British theme in theirmarketing, Chanel uses stories to link their brand personality with that of the founder CocoChanel, whom is associated with the stereotype of France. / <p>Sammanfattning</p><p>Bakgrund: Länder kan ses som varumärken (nation brands) som har varumärkesvärden som</p><p>överförs till ländernas produkter. Country-of-origin (COO), varumärkets nationalitet, länkar</p><p>produkten till ett associativt nätverk av kulturellt delade nationella stereotyper. Genom att</p><p>associera ett varumärke med ett land eller en region, kan trovärdigheten för varumärket öka</p><p>vilket förstärker varumärket. COO kommuniceras därför i reklam för positionering.</p><p>Syfte: Huvudsyftet med denna studie är att undersöka hur lyxvarumärken inom mode</p><p>kommunicerar sin nationella identitet genom att analysera deras reklamkampanjer. De</p><p>varumärken som studerades var franska Chanel och brittiska Burberry. För att svara på syftet</p><p>prövades om varumärkenas personlighet bygger på den nationella stereotypen.</p><p>Reklambilderna analyserades även för att se om det finns ett tydligt nationellt tema eller</p><p>berättelser som länkar till den nationella identiteten.</p><p>Metod: Genom en förstudie undersöktes de olika ländernas nationella stereotyper.</p><p>Reklambilderna analyserades med hjälp av en analysmodell som utvecklades från</p><p>bildanalysteorier. Analysen kopplades till teorin samt de nationella stereotyper som</p><p>framkommit genom förstudien.</p><p>Resultat: Resultatet och det som framkom i studien var att de olika varumärkena använder sig</p><p>av sin nationella identitet på olika sätt. Medan Burberry har ett tydligt brittiskt tema i sin</p><p>marknadsföring, använder Chanel berättelser som länkar varumärkespersonligheten till</p><p>grundaren Coco Chanel, som kan sammankopplas med den franska stereotypen.</p><p>Program: Textilekonomutbildningen magister</p>