Wrinkling and pilling caused in wear and care procedures are vital performance characteristics of fabric. The advance of three-dimensional (3D) imaging techniques has made it possible to develop a convenient, reliable and low cost tool for automatic and efficient evaluation of fabric wrinkling and pilling. We suggest that 3D imaging and measurement system can provide a convenient, accommodating and comprehensive mean to fabric surface assessment. A 3D imaging system based on stereo vision technology is developed. To make it more affordable and portable, the system consists of a pair of consumer grade high resolution digital cameras with mounting hardware. The system is calibrated with classic camera calibration technique. The calibration procedure is relatively complicated, but there is no need to repeat frequently as long as the relative positions between cameras are not changed. In this system, image acquisition can be completed in less than one second. This efficient surface capturing feature is important for a large amount of measurement tasks. However, the computation in stereo vision is complex and intensive, thus it remains a challenge. A two-phase multi-resolution stereo matching algorithm is developed. In the first phase, a discrete disparity map is generated by block matching. In the second phase, local least-squares matching is performed in combination with global optimization within a regularization framework, so as to ensure both accuracy and reliability. To make the 3D imaging system ready for practical use, detection and measurement modules for wrinkling and pilling were developed to take advantage of the depth information in the 3D surface data. The practical feasibility of the 3D imaging system in fabric surface assessment was demonstrated in comparison with human visual ratings. The results showed agreement between the 3D automatic assessment and subjective visual assessment. / text

Fabric appearance is usually the highest priority consideration for consumers. Pilling and wrinkling are two major factors which cause the fabric to have a worse appearance after a certain service period. In order to prevent more piling and wrinkling, a fabric pilling and wrinkling severity evaluation is very important. Traditional visual examination needs at least three trained experts to judge each sample, which is both subjective and time-consuming. Objective, high efficiency, and automatic pilling and wrinkling evaluation based on computer processing techniques are now being developed quickly. In this study, an integrated fabric pilling and wrinkling measurement system based on stereovision was developed. The hardware part of the system consists of a pair of consumer high resolution cameras and a mounting stage, which is affordable and portable in comparison with other 3D imaging systems. A novel pilling detection algorithm focusing on 3D image local information was proposed to extract three pilling features including pilling density, pilling average height, and pilling average size. The logistic regression classifier was applied for pilling severity classification because it showed a good accuracy with 80% on the 120 3D pilling images. A fast wrinkle detection algorithm with leveled 3D fabric surface was developed to measure wrinkle density, hardness, tip-angle, and roughness. According to these four wrinkling features, 180 3D wrinkling images were tested by the logistic regression classifier with an overall 74.4% accuracy in comparison with visual judging results. Both pilling and wrinkling results obtained from the proposed automatic 3D fabric pilling and wrinkling severity evaluation system were consistent with the subjective visual evaluation results. The system is ready for practical use. / text

SELF/PORTRAIT is an exploration of the creative process. Based in the genre of portraiture, this collection of work seeks to reveal the ways in which the artist's relationships and circumstances have factored into the creation of the resulting exhibition. This exploration involves the assessment of abandoned projects with the aim of gaining a greater understanding of their qualities that have served to motivate the creation of his art, and those that have hindered his artistic process. This thesis exhibition and support paper use an autobiographical approach to seek the elements of the artist's perception of art which have influenced the production of the work displayed, and how these are effected by the task of creating a Master's thesis exhibition. It explores the qualities of both Portraiture and Painting which have inspired and directed his endeavour. SELF/PORTRAIT seeks to display the artist's work as a process rather than a product.

SELF/PORTRAIT is an exploration of the creative process. Based in the genre of portraiture, this collection of work seeks to reveal the ways in which the artist's relationships and circumstances have factored into the creation of the resulting exhibition. This exploration involves the assessment of abandoned projects with the aim of gaining a greater understanding of their qualities that have served to motivate the creation of his art, and those that have hindered his artistic process. This thesis exhibition and support paper use an autobiographical approach to seek the elements of the artist's perception of art which have influenced the production of the work displayed, and how these are effected by the task of creating a Master's thesis exhibition. It explores the qualities of both Portraiture and Painting which have inspired and directed his endeavour. SELF/PORTRAIT seeks to display the artist's work as a process rather than a product.

This study assessed ways compositional analysis, facilitated by portable X-ray fluorescence technology (PXRF), can be applied in the museum setting to resolve provenance issues and other collections management questions. A major segment of the study evaluated PXRF as a non-invasive geochemical analysis technique to address concerns about whether the resolution of results is sufficient to draw meaningful conclusions. Compositional analysis, mainly facilitated by PXRF, was successfully applied to three clay artifact collections from the southwestern United States. Pottery sherds from Fourmile Ruin were analyzed using PXRF and compared to analyses from invasive wavelength-dispersive XRF and X-ray diffraction techniques. Expanding the data associated with the artifacts increases the collection's research value. The results of hierarchical clustering suggest further compositional analysis of Fourmile Ruin ceramics to verify this study's conclusions and evaluate current assumptions regarding where certain wares are produced. The iconic Pilling figurine collection was analyzed using scanning electron microscopy and PXRF to evaluate the authenticity of a figurine that had been returned after being lost for forty years. The geochemical tests confirmed the results from the basketry-imprint analysis that the returned figurine was the missing figurine, allowing the museum to restore the artifact's provenance. A pot being offered as a potential donation was analyzed using PXRF to evaluate if there was evidence of forgery or previous repair and help the museum decide whether or not to accept the donation. The study concluded the vessel has not been constructed or partially reconstructed using plaster of Paris. If the vessel has been constructed or partially reconstructed using pieced-together pottery sherds, they all came from a similar clay source. Based on these results, the museum decided to accept the pot as a donation. This study demonstrates the viability of PXRF as a useful geochemical research technique, particularly in cases where higher resolution invasive and destructive analysis techniques are not permitted. It establishes that PXRF can be used to authenticate and restore provenance both within a collection of objects and within a single object. Compositional analysis facilitated by PXRF can be a valuable tool in museum collections management and research.

Den textila industrin är en av världens största industrier, en resurskrävande industri med komplicerade och förorenande processer. Processer som innefattar flera olika steg, från råmaterial till färdig produkt. Detta gäller för alla textila produkter vare sig det handlar om klädesplagg inom fast fashion, eller teknisk textila produkter. Varje steg i processen har en inverkan på miljön och kan även ske på olika geografiska platser runt om i världen. Fast fashion-industrin karaktäriseras av korta produktlivslängder, hög instabilitet och låga priser, vilket direkt kopplas till negativ miljöpåverkan. Enligt konsumenter är kvaliteten på klädesplagg idag bristfällig och det är en stor anledning till varför många använder sina plagg endast ett fåtal gånger. Denna studie undersöker om och hur man kan identifiera livslängden på fyra olika grövre trikåkvaliteter, samt undersöka om förbättringsförslag kan ges för att öka livslängden på dessa. Undersökningen har innefattat kvantitativa metoder genom en enkätstudie där 100 personer deltagit, samt standardiserade testmetoder. I enkätundersökningen fick respondenterna redogöra kvalitetsbrister och användarbeteende. Detta har fungerat som riktlinjer till en metodplan för att simulera användning. Enkätens resultat visade att störst kvalitetsbrister och anledning till att plagg slutar användas främst berodde på grund av noppbildning, slitage genom nötning och dimensionsförändringar. Därmed har metodval för standardiserade tester valts inom dessa parametrar. Detta med 15 tvättcykler mellan testningarna för att simulera två års användning. Mätningar har även jämförts mot kvaliteternas kravspecifikation. Testernas resultat visade att samtliga kvaliteter har en bra beständighet mot nötning, i förhållande till dess kravspecifikation. Samma gällde för resultaten inom dimensionsstabilitet, dock med mycket varierande dimensionsförändringar på olika områden. Vid test av benägenhet till att bilda noppor, klarade endast hälften av kvaliteterna kravspecifikationens villkor. Dessa resultat gäller både innan och efter 15 tvättcykler. Förbättringsförslag för en förhöjd kvalitetsstandard, därmed förlängd livslängd, var svårt bestämma utifrån den information till kvaliteterna som fanns att tillgå. Resultat visade att fibertyp, fibertjocklek, spinnmetod, garnkonstruktion, bindning, masklängd samt delning på stickmaskin är alla parametrar som avgör slutproduktens kvalitet. Olika tekniker för samtliga parametrar medför olika egenskaper som bestämmer slutkvaliteten. I brist på information om värden för nämnda parametrar var förbättringsförslag ej möjliga att bestämma. / The textile industry is one of the world's largest industries, a resource-intensive industry with complicated and polluting processes. Processes that include several different steps, from raw material to final product. Which applies for all textile products, whether it is clothing in fast fashion or other textile products. Each step in the process has an impact on the environment and many of them take place indifferent geographical locations around the world. The fast-fashion industry is characterized by short product lifetimes, high instability, and lower prices, which directly links to negative environmental impacts. According to consumers, the quality of today's clothing has a major deficiency and is a major reason why many people only use their garments a few times before discarding them. This study examines how to identify the lifespan of four different coarser knitted sweaters, but also investigate if it is possible to provide improvement suggestions on how to increase the longevity. The project includes quantitative methods through a survey which has been done by 100 people, and standardized tests. Within the survey the respondents were asked to report quality deficiencies and care behavior. Which has served as guidelines for choice of methods to simulate use of clothing. The results of the survey showed that greatest quality deficiencies and reasons why garments stop being used were mainly due to pilling formation, wear due to abrasion and dimensional changes. Thus, choices of methods for standardized tests were chosen to test within these parameters. This with 15 wash cycles between tests to simulate two years of use. Results have also been compared to the garment requirement specifications. The test results showed that all garment samples had good resistance to abrasion, in relation to the requirement specifications. The same applies to the results within the dimensional stability, however, dimensional changes vary a lot in different areas. The results apply both before and after 15 wash cycles. Suggestions for improvement for an increased quality standard, for increased longevity, were difficult to determine based on the limited information provided regarding the garments. Results showed that fiber type, fiber thickness, spinning method, yarn construction, knit structure, loop size and gauge of the knitting machine are all parameters that influence the quality of the final product. Different techniques for all parameters result in different properties that determine the final quality and the longevity for the product. The lack of specific information needed for the parameters mentioned, suggestions for improvement were not possible to determine.

I detta examensarbete har en geoteknisk utredning utförts för att bedöma ifall grundläggning aven bro över Fyrisån i Uppsala kan utföras på enklaste sätt, genom plattgrundläggning. Arbetethar grundats på att undersöka hur grundläggningen styrs av den postglaciala lerans tekniskaegenskaper. Problemformuleringen har varit, att undersöka hur den geotekniska projekteringenav bron, dels skulle kunna genomföras, dels ska genomföras utifrån beaktande och värderingav tekniska och i viss mån ekonomiska aspekter. De frågeställningar som behandlas är: Vilkautmaningar finns det med att bygga bron på den aktuella platsen? Vilka svårigheter finns detmed att bygga bron enligt enklaste sätt, Vilka ytterligare grundläggningsmetoder kan användasför att grundlägga bron samt hur ska dessa tillämpas? Arbetet har utförts med en inledandelitteraturstudie via Malmö Universitetsbibliotek, sökmotorn Libsearch och SGI:s bibliotek. Enfallstudie har utförts av jordlagerförhållandena vid Fyrisån, där utvärderingen baseras påanalyser av data från tillgängliga fältundersökningar i området. Handberäkningar hargenomförts för att överslagsmässigt kontrollera de geotekniska förutsättningarna i brott- ochbruksgränstillståndet. Handberäkningarna har jämförts med datorberäkningar från Plaxis 2D.Teorin som ligger till grund för beräkningarna baseras på etablerade standarder somkontrolleras mot flertalet källor. Undersökningarna visar att djupet till berg är ca 55 m underbefintlig markyta. Jordlagerföljden består generellt av fyllning på siltig torrskorpelera påsulfidlera på lera/silt på friktionsjord. Utmaningen med grundläggningen av bron kansammanfattas till den potentiellt miljöfarliga sulfidhaltiga leran som leder till svårigheter ibruksgränstillståndet, eftersom den har en benägenhet att ge stora sättningar vid belastning,kombinerat med det stora djupet till berg.Handberäkningar visar att bron inte kan grundläggas på platta på mark eftersom jorden går ibrott när den belastas av fundamentet för odränerade förhållanden, dvs. korttidstillståndet. Ävenberäkningar med Plaxis 2D indikerar att jorden går i brott. Handberäkningar ochplaxisberäkningar har också genomförts för att undersöka de sättningar som kan utbildas vidgrundläggning på platta på mark. Det tillåtna värdet för sättningar är 0,050 m medanhandberäkningarna ger en sättning på 0,52 m och Plaxis 2D 0,41 m. För att bron ska kunnagrundläggas på den postglaciala leran används istället pålar med en geoteknisk bärförmåga på725 kN. Pålarnas knäcklast har beräknats till 5254 kN. Totalt krävs 18 pålar för att grundläggabrofundamentet. Pålning används då det råder osäkerhet hur användningen av övrigagrundläggningsmetoder interagerar med sulfidhaltig lera, bland annat hur reaktionen mellankalk/cement och sulfidjorden fungerar, om t ex kalk-cement-pelare skulle ha använts istället förpålar, samt resultaten av en eventuell försurning av omkringliggande miljö. Sulfidhaltig lerasänker pH-värdet i jord vid exponering för syre.Handberäkningarna och datorberäkningarna visar liknande resultat, vilket tyder på att deterhållna resultatet är rimligt. Förutsättningarna som används för beräkningarna är baserade påempiriska samband, som vid jämförelse med resultat från genomförda sonderingar visar på engod överensstämmelse. Avvikelser i sonderingarna bedöms vara ett resultat bl. a av deskalrester som finns i jorden, vilket beaktas vid värdering av resultatet. Resultatet från denutförda studien visar, att grundläggning av platta på mark inte är möjlig, främst på grund av destora sättningar som kan förväntas utbildas. Grundläggning med pålning väljs utifrånmiljömässiga och tekniska krav. / In this thesis, a geotechnical investigation has been performed to assess if the foundation of abridge over Fyrisån, Uppsala, can be founded by plate foundation. The work has been based oninvestigating how the postglacial clay affects the construction based on the current groundconditions. Questions being answered are: what challenges there are in building the bridge atthe current location, what difficulties there are in building the bridge according to conventionalmethods and what foundation methods can be used to construct the bridge and how these shouldbe applied. The work has been carried out through a literature study. A case study has beenperformed of the soil conditions in Fyrisån which shows that the soil consists in general offilling on silty dry clay crust on sulfide clay on clay/silt on friction soil. The depth to rock is 55meters.The main challenge with this specific soil are the large compression, which is a result of largedepth and the fact that the soil consists of sulfide clay. The calculations by hand correspond thecalculation done in Plaxis 2D where the results show that the soil breaks in the undrained stateand the compression is 0,41m, 0,52 m by hand, compared to the maximum requirement of 50mm. The choice of foundation is piling due to the uncertainty of reaction betweenlimestone/cement and sulfide and the risk of acidification.The condition on which the calculations are based on is compared to completed probes whichshows a good correspondence. Any abnormalities are concluded to be a result of the soil’scontent of residual of shell. In conclusion the study shows that the foundation cannot be donewith a plate foundation and the soil has to be reinforced due to the large compression of thesoil.

Diploma thesis contains descriptions of technological process of Residential House in Zlín. The project includes a technical report for pills and monolithic constructions, mechanization plans, safety and guality of work, report scheduling and organization of construction.

Syftet med studien är att undersöka hur TencelTM och merinoull bäst kombineras i en stickad frottéstruktur ämnad för en lager-2 produkt. Den stickade strukturen har funktionella krav gällande god fukttransport, nötningsbeständighet och antipilling. Funktionskraven kommer att prövas med standardiserade tester. Ytterligare kommer studien undersöka om hållbarheten för lager-2-tyg skulle kunna förbättras. En design research method används för att skapa tre frottéstickade trikåstrukturer, alla med olika kombinationer av lyocell och merinoull. Resultaten visade att alla strukturer hade relativt goda förmåga att transportera fukt, dock stod S-M-T ut som bäst, tätt följt av T-M. Bra nötningsbeständighet utmärktes i M-T och T-M, medan S-M-T presterade sämst. Slutligen visade ett pillingstest ett jämnt resultat mellan alla stickade strukturer, T-M fick dock ett något högre snitt än de andra två. Resultaten i relation till hållbarhet visade att ingen av de stickade strukturerna var ensamt signifikant bättre än de andra. Däremot ger studien ett förslag för framtida forskning när det gäller att samspunna garnet placeras på ena sidan, medan merinoull på den andra. / This study aims to investigate how TencelTM and merino wool are best combined in a knitted terry structure modified for layer-2. The knitted structure has functional requirements, which are in regards to good moisture transport (wicking) capacity, abrasion resistances and anti-pilling. The functional requirements will be tested and with the help of the result the study will further investigate if the sustainability of layer-2 fabric could improve. A design research method is applied to create three terry knitted fabric structures, all with different combinations of lyocell and merino wool. The three fabric structures are then assets for the functional requirements through ISO Standards and AATCC tests. The results showed that all structures had relatively good wicking properties, however S-M-T stood out as the best, closely followed by T-M. Good abrasion resistance was noticeable mostly in M-T and T-M, whereas S-M-T performed worst. Lastly, a pilling test showed an even result between all knitted structures, T-M received however a slightly higher average than the other two. The results in relation to sustainability showed that none of the knitted structures were significantly better than the others alone. However, a suggestion for future research is made in regards to the co-spun yarn being placed on one side, while merino wool on the other.