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This report offers an analysis of the ways in which two eighteenth century georgic poems, John Dyer’s The Fleece and William Cowper’s The Task, mediate evangelical and imperial practices. Through an inquiry into the recent critical intersection between Kevis Goodman’s media focused research into the georgic and Clifford Siskin and William Warner’s similarly inflected inquiry into the Enlightenment, this report suggests that the didactic, agricultural musings of Dyer and Cowper betray a deep engagement the consequences of imperialism and the execution of Britain’s dawning evangelical charge. / text

Mikroplaster i havet är ett miljöproblem som har fått stor uppmärksamhet i och med nya alarmerande rapporter som publiceras. För lite drygt ett decennium sedan drogs kopplingar mellan mikroplaster i havet och klädindustrin då man funnit mikrofiberföroreringar från polyester och akryl längst med stränder runt om i världen. Redan då kunde man se att mikrofiberkoncentrationen i haven hade ökat i takt med ökad konsumtion av syntetiska material. Forskare är idag överens om att vi vet för lite om vilka effekter mikroplaster i haven har på miljö, vattenlevande organismer och människor. Studier visar att många av de mikroplaster som finns i haven kommer från textilier som släpps ut genom vanlig hushållstvätt, och textilier i polyestermaterial och framför allt fleece tenderar att fälla mer än andra. Syftet med den här studien är att undersöka möjligheterna att avgöra hur ruggningsprocessen vid framställning av fleece påverkar mängden fiberfällning vid tvätt, och även undersöka hur en sänkning av temperatur vid tvätt och kortare tvättid påverkar fiberfällning för fleece. Det finns idag ingen standardiserad metod för att mäta fiberfällning från textilier vid tvätt. Metoden som användes i den här studien har tagits fram utefter tidigare studerad litteratur. En frotté stickades upp på Textilhögskolan i Borås som ruggades till fleece och provbitar skars ut i en storlek på 15x15 cm. Tvätt utfördes i en laboratorietvättmaskin där tvättvattnet filtrerades över ett glasfiberfilter för uppsamling av fibrer. Filtret vägdes efter filtrering för att bestämma fiberfällning. För att undersöka ruggningsprocessens påverkan för fiberfällning vid tvätt jämfördes frotté och fleece. Dessa tvättades i 60 °C i 30 minuter och i tillägg till vägning av filter studerades även dessa i mikroskop. Fiberfällning vid en tid- och temperaturförändring undersöktes för fleece genom att tvättas i två olika temperatur- och tidsinställningar. Resultatet av den här studien visade på ingen signifikant skillnad mellan frotté och fleece och då en färgningsprocess uteslöts var det svårt att urskilja fibrer från fleecelagret i mikroskop. Tid och temperatur visade sig ha betydelse för mängden fiberfällning där provbitar tvättade i 30 minuter visade på högre fiberfällning än prover tvättade i 15 minuter, och prover tvättade i 30 °C visade på högre fiberfällning än de tvättade i 40°C. Brister i den metod som användes i den här studien tros kan ha påverkat resultatet. Vidare forskning är nödvändig för att ta fram en metod för att på ett standardiserat sätt mäta fiberutfällning från textilier vid tvätt för att hitta sätt för att minska mikroplastkoncentrationen i haven.

Purpose Wool is still the most valuable and the most versatile fiber used by man. Many questions regarding its production have gone unanswered for centuries. This problem is undertaken in the hope of contributing information which might be used in further study on the problem of wool density. It is recognized that wool density is one of the four major factors affecting the total clean wool production of a sheep. If length of staple, diameter of fiber, and total surface area remain constant, an increase in density brings about a corresponding increase in total production of clean wool. Wool fibers are produced by glands, called fiber follicles, beneath the surface of the skin. Density is controlled by the number of these follicles functioning within a given area. Before great improvement in density can be made, it is necessary to know the mode of inheritance, it is necessary to know the density of each individual involved. Counting the fibere from any sizeable area is not practicable. Therefore, a technique is necessary for sampling the sheep and estimating the density on the basis of sampling figures. Scope The Wira Fleece Caliper is probably the most popular instrument used in sampling for density. To determine the most effective method of using the Wira Caliper, different-sized samples are taken from a given area. Both sides of each sheep are tested, and sheep from different breeds are sampled. Density on all samples is determined by a standard laboratory procedure. The results are statistically analyzed to determine the variation in density as obtained by the different sample sizes. In addition to the main objective, the variation in density between breeds, between sheep of the same brood, and the variation in density between sides on the same sheep is determined.

The applicability of restricted maximum likelihood (REML) in genetic analyses of categorical data was evaluated using simulation and field data. Four genetic models were used to simulate underlying phenotypic variates, which were derived as the sum of additive genetic and environmental effects (Model 1A and 1B) or additive genetic and permanent and temporary environmental effects (Model 2A and 2B). Fifty-eight replicates were simulated, each of which contained 5000 ewes by 500 sires and 5000 dams and with up to five records per ewe. The usual transformation of heritability estimated on the categorical scale to the normal scale for fertility and litter size performed better for a simple animal model than for a repeatability model. Genetic correlation estimates between the two categorical traits for Model 1B and 2B were .49 ± .01 and .48 ± .04, respectively, and were close to the expected value of .50. However, permanent and temporary environmental correlations whose input values were each .50 were underestimated with estimates of .41 ± .05 and .26 ± .03, respectively for Model 2B, and .33 ± .02 for the temporary environmental correlation for Model 1B. Bivariate genetic analyses of litter size with growth and fleece traits were carried out by REML for the data of Suffolk, Targhee and Polypay. Direct heritabilities for most growth traits in all the breeds were low (<.20). Maternal genetic and maternal permanent environmental effects were important for all body weights except for the weaning weight at 120 d for Polypay sheep. Estimates of heritability and permanent environmental effects for litter size for these breeds ranged from .09 to .12 and .00 to .05, respectively. Heritabilities for grease fleece weight and fiber diameter were high for Targhee and Polypay sheep. Direct genetic correlations between growth and litter size were favorable for Suffolk and Targhee but weak for Polypay sheep. Genetic correlations between maternal effects for growth and direct effects for litter size for the breeds were generally small. Within-trait maternal-direct genetic correlations for growth in the breeds were variable and generally negative. Direct genetic correlations of litter size with grease fleece weight and fiber diameter were variable across the breeds. / Ph. D.

Every artifact in this consumerism world is connected to Earth’s four ecological layers. Everything around us, air, organism, water, and soil/rock also known by the names; atmosphere, biosphere, hydrosphere, and lithosphere. All together form the ecosphere, the place that contains all materials and resources that we use when creating artifacts.  »Every material that we use comes from the ecosphere and eventually goes back to it.« - Ann Thorpe The way humans use, extract, manufacture and dispose of materials has concerned me for many years, long before I started this design program. It has formed my way of making as a designer, and because of my love for textiles, I have been applying it in that field of practise. I want to design textiles that function and can be used frequently, with a purpose and in the end, decompose before I do. The aim of this conducted design project is to, in a playful way, break down the barrier between maker and user. Combined with unfolding the hidden truths about garments, how they are manufactured and where those textile components originate from. This would enable me to broaden my knowledge in the field and in return I will have the opportunity to share my insights with the public. Within this project I will also put the emphasis on the impact textiles have on our bodies, reproductive health and surrounding ecosystems.  Designing with the intention to highlight topics like this, the whole life cycle of garments, creates a stronger bond between user and maker. This is something I as a designer and maker want to build my foundation on.  In order to do this I needed to pin down where this conducted design project could take place and what sustainable possibilities of change it could embed for the future.

Le personnage s'inscrit dans l'histoire de la seconde Maison de Vienne (depuis le milieu du XIIIe siècle), issue des comteséponymes, peu étudiée. Les diverses branches furent animées par quelques personnagesprestigieux, comme Jean de Vienne, amiral de France. Trois faits : la mort de l'amiral(Nicopolis, 1396), le fabuleux héritage de son frère Huguenin, et une robuste santé, permirentà Guillaume de s'affirmer comme "chef " de la Maison de Vienne. Il se distingua par unservice multiforme (militaire, diplomatique, de conseil) auprès des ducs de BourgognePhilippe le Hardi, Jean sans Peur et Philippe le Bon, de 1379 à sa mort, et par une gestionavisée de son immense patrimoine terrien, dans le Duché (presque toute la Bresselouhannaise ; Arc-en-Barrois ; sans doute le premier revenu domanial duchois), et dans leComté, auquel il faut ajouter deux hôtels, à Dijon et à Paris. Olivier de La Marche propagea larenommée de Guillaume de Vienne "le Grand" et "le Sage". Ses deux épouses successives lefirent entrer dans des familles prestigieuses : Thoire-Villars (alliée aux comtes de Genève) etles Dauphins d'Auvergne. Sur les champs de bataille et comme diplomate, le "sire de SaintGeorge" connut la gloire et la célébrité : de l'Ecosse à Mahdia (en l'actuelle Tunisie), de laNormandie à Milan, il s'affirma comme un haut cadre de l'Etat bourguignon en gestation.Comblé d'honneurs par les Ducs ( ordre de l'Arbre d'or en 1403, premier nommé chevalier del'ordre de la Toison d'or en 1430), recevant la plus forte pension ( 3000 francs/an), intime deces souverains, il fut aussi un membre actif du Grand conseil royal et gouverneur des deuxBourgognes ; il s'illustra à la croisade (Mahdia, 1390), au service de l'Eglise (familier deClément VII ; chef de l'ambassade bourguignonne au concile de Constance (1415) ;bienfaiteur de Colette de Corbie pour la fondation de plusieurs couvents) et fut le dernierBourguignon auquel s'adressa Jean sans Peur sur le pont de Montereau (1419). Sa secondeépouse lui donna un fils, lui aussi prénommé Guillaume, et seigneur de Saint-Georges et deSainte-Croix à la mort de son père – ce qui a posé problème à plus d'un historien. Cepersonnage, pourvu d'une solide formation, militaire mais aussi intellectuelle (envoyé en"Allemagne" pour y apprendre la langue), connut une foudroyante ascension, du vivant de sonpère, au service de Jean sans Peur puis de Philippe le Bon. Non moins foudroyante fut, dès1440, la dilapidation du patrimoine mobilier et immobilier du "sire de Saint-George" par lenouveau Guillaume de Vienne et son fils Jean, lesquels menèrent, semble-t-il, une viedissolue, et tombèrent dans les rets de multiples profiteurs, au premier chef les "légistes etgens de finances". Marguerite de Vienne, une soeur de Jean, fut bien près d'épouser le comted'Eu, beau-frère de Philippe le Bon. Elle s'unit à Rodolphe de Hochberg, issu d'une puissantefamille de Forêt Noire, et devenu comte de Neuchâtel en succession de son cousin Jean,comte de Fribourg et maréchal de Bourgogne. Marguerite et Rodolphe unirent leurs efforts etparvinrent à reconstituer une bonne partie du patrimoine seigneurial de "Guillaume de Viennele Grand", qu'ils transmirent à leur fils Philippe, célèbre par ses états de service auprès deCharles le Téméraire puis de Louis XI. La fille de Philippe, Jeanne de Hochberg, par sonmariage apporta l'héritage à la famille d'Orléans-Longueville. D'autres branches "Vienne"s'éteignirent, mais une semblable étude permettrait de sortir de l'ombre des personnages decette Maison, comme Guillaume de Vienne, seigneur de Montby et de Montbis (décédé en1471), les Vienne seigneurs de Listenois (Bourbonnais), sans oublier Girard (mort en 1545),seigneur de Commarin, fondateur de la chapelle de Vienne en la Sainte-Chapelle de Dijon. / The character fits into the history of the Second House Vienna (since the mid-thirteenth century), from the countseponymous little studied. The various branches were animated by some famous characterslike Jean de Vienne, admiral of France. Three facts: the death of Admiral (Nicopolis, 1396),the fabulous legacy of his brother Huguenin, and robust health, allowed William to assertitself as "leader" of the House of Vienna. He distinguished himself by service multiforme(military, diplomatic, counseling) from the Dukes of Burgundy, Philip the Bold, John theFearless and Philip the Good, from 1379 to his death, and by careful management of hisimmense estates with the Duchy (almost all Bresse louhannaise; Arc-en-Barrois, probably thefirst Income duchois lands), and the county, which must be added two hotels in Dijon andParis. Olivier de la Marche spread the fame of Guillaume de Vienne "Grand" and "wisdom."His two successive wives brought him into prestigious families: Thoire-Villars (allied to theCounts of Geneva) and Dolphins Auvergne. On the battlefield and as a diplomat, the "lord ofSaint George" achieved fame and stardom: from Scotland to Mahdia (in present-day Tunisia),from Normandy to Milan, he established himself as a high part of the Burgundian State ingestation. Loaded with honors by the Dukes (order of the Golden Tree in 1403, the firstknight of the Order of the Golden Fleece in 1430), receiving the highest pension (3000 francs/ year), intimate the sovereign, he was also an active member of the Grand Council of Royaland Governor of the two Burgundies, he distinguished himself in the Crusades (Mahdia,1390), in the service of the Church (familiar Clement VII head of the embassy Burgundy theCouncil of Constance (1415), benefactor of Colette of Corbie to the founding of severalmonasteries) and was the last Bourguignon which John the Fearless spoke on the bridge ofMontereau (1419). His second wife bore him a son, also named William, and lord of Saint-Georges and St. Croix in the death of his father - which was a problem in more than onehistorian. This character provided a solid background, but also military intellectual (sent in"Germany" to learn the language), had a startling rise in the lifetime of his father, in theservice of John the Fearless and Philip the Good. No less startling was from 1440, thesquandering of movable and immovable property of the "Comte de Saint-George" the newGuillaume de Vienne and his son John, who led, it seems, a dissolute life, and fell into thesnares of multiple riders, primarily the "forensic people and finances." Vienna Marguerite,sister of John, was very close to marrying the Count of Eu, brother of Philip the Good. Shejoins Rudolph Hochberg, from a powerful family in the Black Forest, and became Count ofNeuchâtel in succession to his cousin John, Count of Burgundy and Marshal of Fribourg.Marguerite and Rudolf joined forces and managed to rebuild much of the stately heritage"Guillaume Grand Vienna", they transmitted to their son Philippe, famous for his service toCharles the Bold and Louis XI. Philippe's daughter, Jeanne de Hochberg, by his marriagebrought the family legacy of Orleans-Longueville. Other branches "Vienna" went out, butsuch a study would emerge from the shadows of the characters in this House, as Guillaume deVienne, lord of Montby and Montbis (d. 1471), the Vienna lords Listenois (Bourbonnais),without forgetting Girard (d. 1545), lord of Commarin, founder of the Vienna Chapel of theSainte-Chapelle in Dijon

Le mythe de la Toison d'or est le récit d'une aventure maritime jusqu'au bout du monde pour y rapporter un emblème de royauté. Chassé par un oncle usurpateur, Jason triomphe des épreuves qui lui sont imposées grâce à l'amour de la magicienne Médée. Tamis des orpailleurs, trésor caché, parchemin sacré, constellation ou Saint-Graal, le bélier volant qui sauva Hellé et Phryxos de la noyade a été l’objet de nombreuses interprétations.En 1430, le duc de Bourgogne, Philippe le Bon, fonde l'ordre de la Toison d'or pour fédérer les princes de la chrétienté. À l'issue de la cérémonie d'intronisation, un collier est remis au nouveau chevalier. Pourtant, l'évêque de Chalon se récrie face au choix de ce héros parjure, et l'on décide de lui adjoindre Gédéon, dont les brebis s'étaient couvertes de rosée mariale, en signe de la victoire prochaine sur les mécréants.Par le jeu des alliances matrimoniales, le titre de Souverain de l'ordre échoit à Charles Quint qui ajoute à ses armoiries le « Plus Oultre ». Lors de la bataille de Lépante, en 1571, la Galera Real Argo proclame, à coups de décorations, fresques, statues et devises, le projet de la monarchie catholique de terrasser le dragon qui s'est emparé des territoires chrétiens, assimilés au mouton doré du mythe.Quand la saga des Argonautes arrive sur les planches du théâtre auriséculaire, elle jouit d'un immense avantage. Le héros est connu dans son aspect le plus lumineux et le traitement bourguignon alimente la résistance face aux hérétiques de toutes sortes.Si le mythe se prête aux innovations les plus spectaculaires et relaie les valeurs de la monarchie, il entretient une singulière relation avec la politique menée par ses princes, tandis que les guerres laissent attendre l'âge d'or tant espéré, que la dette se creuse, que la cour mène un train de vie dispendieux et que la corruption gagne progressivement toute la société.Avec l'Art Nouveau de faire des comédies, Lope de Vega ouvre une brèche qui permet de voir derrière les ors et les fastes de la cour la lente désagrégation de la monarchie. / The story of Jason is a most ancient myth and survives in various forms. A more widespread interpretation relates the myth of the fleece to a method of washing gold from streams. More often, the Golden Fleece represents royal power, the spring-hero or a book on alchemy. According to Apollonius of Rhodes, a flying golden ram rescued Phrixus and Helle as their stepmother wantedto kill them. Phrixus safely reached Colchis where he sacrificed the ram and gave its skin to Aetes. Meanwhile, Pelias had usurped the throne of Eson and as his son reclaimed it, sent him to fetch the Golden Fleece. Jason assembled a remarkable group of heroes on board the Argo. At Colchis, the witch Medea helped Jason to complete the mortal tasks. Upon returning, she plotted the death of Jason's uncle, so both took refuge with their children in Corinth. There, the hero betrayed her as he fell in love with Creusa. The witch got rid of this rival, burnt the palace and slaughtered their chidren.In 1430, the Duke of Burgundy founded the Order of the Golden Fleece. As a shield, a sheepskin was suspended from a jeweled collar of firesteel linked by flints. But the choice of Jason caused controversy, so Bishop of Chalon linked it to the fleece of Gideon. As part of the Burgundian inheritance, the Order was a welcomed instrument to the ambitious Habsburgs to strengthen the bonds and Charles V added as a motto « Plus Oultre ».Performances of the Spanish Golden Age Theater were used to develop the ideology of the Catholic Monarchy. When Lope de Vega published el “Arte nuevo”, he introduced the tradition of the « Mirror for Prince » giving opportunity to express one's point of view, despite the censure.

Syftet med studien är att undersöka hur TencelTM och merinoull bäst kombineras i en stickad frottéstruktur ämnad för en lager-2 produkt. Den stickade strukturen har funktionella krav gällande god fukttransport, nötningsbeständighet och antipilling. Funktionskraven kommer att prövas med standardiserade tester. Ytterligare kommer studien undersöka om hållbarheten för lager-2-tyg skulle kunna förbättras. En design research method används för att skapa tre frottéstickade trikåstrukturer, alla med olika kombinationer av lyocell och merinoull. Resultaten visade att alla strukturer hade relativt goda förmåga att transportera fukt, dock stod S-M-T ut som bäst, tätt följt av T-M. Bra nötningsbeständighet utmärktes i M-T och T-M, medan S-M-T presterade sämst. Slutligen visade ett pillingstest ett jämnt resultat mellan alla stickade strukturer, T-M fick dock ett något högre snitt än de andra två. Resultaten i relation till hållbarhet visade att ingen av de stickade strukturerna var ensamt signifikant bättre än de andra. Däremot ger studien ett förslag för framtida forskning när det gäller att samspunna garnet placeras på ena sidan, medan merinoull på den andra. / This study aims to investigate how TencelTM and merino wool are best combined in a knitted terry structure modified for layer-2. The knitted structure has functional requirements, which are in regards to good moisture transport (wicking) capacity, abrasion resistances and anti-pilling. The functional requirements will be tested and with the help of the result the study will further investigate if the sustainability of layer-2 fabric could improve. A design research method is applied to create three terry knitted fabric structures, all with different combinations of lyocell and merino wool. The three fabric structures are then assets for the functional requirements through ISO Standards and AATCC tests. The results showed that all structures had relatively good wicking properties, however S-M-T stood out as the best, closely followed by T-M. Good abrasion resistance was noticeable mostly in M-T and T-M, whereas S-M-T performed worst. Lastly, a pilling test showed an even result between all knitted structures, T-M received however a slightly higher average than the other two. The results in relation to sustainability showed that none of the knitted structures were significantly better than the others alone. However, a suggestion for future research is made in regards to the co-spun yarn being placed on one side, while merino wool on the other.

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