Yes / Rising demand for cheaper textiles and clothing in Western Europe is well documented, as are changes in the Textiles and Clothing industry's globalised production structure. We apply a sub-systems global multi-regional input–output accounting framework to examine the sustainability implications of meeting Western European demand for textiles and clothing goods between 1995 and 2009. Our framework estimates environmental and socio-economic impacts of consumption in a consistent manner and shows where these occur both geographically and in the value chain. The results demonstrate that Western European textiles and clothing consumption remains dependent on low-cost labour from Brazil, Russia, India and China (BRIC), principally in the Textiles and Clothing and Agricultural sectors. Conversely, we show that the wage rate for BRIC workers in the global value chains serving Western European textiles and clothing consumption has risen over time but remains low relative to the wage rate paid to Western European workers. Likewise, we find that profits are increasingly generated within BRIC and that they are now at comparable levels to those generated in Western Europe. We find a slight overall decrease in the amount of carbon emitted in the production of textiles and clothing goods for Western Europe between 1995 and 2009. However, the trend is not linear and the importance of different underlying drivers varies over the timeseries. We conclude by discussing the implications of these results for a more sustainable future for Western European textiles and clothing consumption.

No / In this chapter we use global multi-regional input-output analysis to explore how globalisation has impacted fairness along Western European clothing supply chains. Our analysis shows that while globalisation has made the Western European clothing supply chain ‘fairer’ by increasing employment opportunities and income for workers in Brazil, Russia, India and China (BRIC), it has failed to make the supply chain fair. Despite large increases in the labour compensation received by BRIC workers in the Western European clothing supply chain, labour compensation is still insufficient to support a decent standard of living and cannot, therefore, be considered fair.

Research suggests that there is a plethora of information on the size and shape of the average and plus sized women in South Africa (Winks, 1990; Pandarum, 2009; Muthambi, 2012; Afolayan & Mastamet-Mason, 2013 and Makhanya, 2015). However, there is very little information on petite women‟s body shapes, their body measurements and their shopping behaviour, especially in South Africa, for manufacturing ready-to-wear garments. The purpose of this petite women study was to investigate the shapes and sizes of a sample of petite South African women and develop size charts for the upper and lower body dimensions. This study used a mixed-method; purposive, non-probability sampling method to achieve the objectives of the study. A (TC)² NX16 3D full body scanner and an Adam‟s® medical scale were used to collect the body measurement data of 200 petite South African women, aged between 20-54 years with an average height range of 157cm, residing in Gauteng (Pretoria and Johannesburg). Other data collection instruments included a demographic questionnaire to collect the subjects‟ demographic information such as, age, height, weight, etc.; and the psychographic questionnaire to gather the petite subjects‟ demographics as well as their perceptions and preferences on currently available ready-to-wear shirt and trouser garments. Of the 200 subjects that were initially recruited, based on the petite women‟s body height that ranged from 5‟ 4” (163 cm) and below, the most prevalent body shape profile that emerged from the dataset, was the pear body shape which was evident in 180 of the 3D full body scanned petite women subjects. Therefore, the anthropometric data for these 180 subjects was used in the development of the experimental upper and lower body dimensions size charts and as the basis for the fit test garments developed in this study. The collected data was analysed and interpreted in Microsoft Excel and the IBM SPSS Statistics 24 (2016) software package, using principal component analysis (PCA) to produce the experimental size charts for the upper and lower body dimensions necessary for creating prototype shirt and trouser garments. Regression analysis was used to establish the primary and secondary body dimensions for the development of the size charts and for determining the size ranges. The experimental upper and lower body dimensions size charts were developed for sizes ranging from size 6/30 to size 26/50. Subsequently, the accuracy of the size charts developed in this study was evaluated by a panel of experts who analysed the fit of the prototype shirt and trouser garments, manufactured using measurements for a size 10/34 size range from the size chart, on a sample of the petite subjects. The fit of these garments was also compared with the fit of garments manufactured using the 3D full body scanned measurements of a size 10/34 petite tailoring mannequin, that is currently commercially available for use in the production of garments for petite women in South Africa. The shirt and trouser prototype garments developed using the size 10/34 upper and lower body dimensions size chart measurements had, overall, a better quality of fit than the garments made to fit the current, commercially available, size 10/34 mannequin. These findings thereby confirmed that the data extracted from the (TC)² NX16 3D full body scanner and the size charts subsequently developed using the data, has the potential to provide better/improved fit in garments for petite South African women than data hitherto published. From the evidence of this study, it is recommended that the South African garment manufacturing industry needs to revise the current sizing system for petite women to accommodate the body dimensions and shape variations that currently prevail amongst consumers. The South African garment manufacturers and retailers also need to familiarise themselves with the needs, challenges and preferences of the petite consumers‟ target market that purchase ready-to-wear shirt and trouser garments in South Africa. / Life and Consumer Sciences / M.ConSci. (Department of Life and Consumer Science)

Thesis (MBA)--Stellenbosch University, 2007. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: Traditional notions of leadership have placed great emphasis on a leaders personal vision and intellectual competency. The smartest person is not always the best captain of the team i.e. the class valedictorian may focus on individual achievements, whereas the team captain focuses on motivating a group to accomplish its collective vision. Such leadership is not the product of one's IQ but one's EQ or emotional intelligence, which is defined as "how leaders handle themselves and their relationships". The rationale of the study is to determine the individual and group emotional intelligence profile of a managers' team in an organisation as well as the trends between these profiles and socio-demographic, psychological and work environmental factors. The association between the emotional intelligence and variables such as demographics (age, gender), management position and managers' experience, the number of people reporting directly to the manager, the term of service with the present organisation, perceptions of job satisfaction, job commitment, job security as well as personal style (feeler, intuitor, thinker, sensor) and conflict style (competing, collaborative, compromise, avoid, accommodate) were explored. Data for the study was collected from twenty-seven participants using a survey methodology. Participants were the managers of the Western Cape Clothing Industry Bargaining Council (CIBC). The instruments used were the BarOn EQ-i, a general questionnaire as well as a qualitative questionnaire for the collection of the data. Data was captured on a Microsoft Office 2000 Excel software programme and analysed with descriptive statistics and univariate analysis of variance. The researcher analysed the data from the BarOn EQ-i and General EQ questionnaire using the general linear model (GLM) version of analysis of variance (ANOVA). A qualitative questionnaire was applied to further substantiate the results. This study proved that female managers have on average a higher EQ score than males. No statistically significant difference were found in the emotional intelligence scores of those in the sample comparing age groups, management positions, managerial experience, number of people reporting to the managers, years of service with the organisation as well as conflict style and personal style. In response to job related questions, the majority of managers reflected that they had total job satisfaction while significant proportions indicated a lack of 'job commitment' and 'job security'. Through the qualitative feedback, it was clear that managers at the CIBC identified a place for EQ in the workplace. This study made recommendations to the organisation applicable to the individual level as well as the organisational level. Recommendations on organisational level included investing in EQ on the basis of making it part of the organisational strategy, to get the right people to orchestrate the process and re-evaluation. Recommendations on an individual level were about a personal development plan and reviewing. This study also made propositions for future research. / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Tradisionele leierskap het meer klem gele op 'n leier se persoonlike visie en intellektuele vaardighede. Die mees skrander persoon is nie altyd die beste aanvoerder van die span nie d.w.s. die klas uitblinker mag fokus op individuele sukses, waar die span aanvoerder meer daarop fokus om die groep te motiveer om die gesamentlike visie te bereik. Sulke leierskap is nie die produk van IK nie, maar wel van EQ of Emosionele Intelligensie, wat gedefinieer word as "hoe leiers hulself en hul verhoudings behartig". Die primere doel van hierdie studie is om die individuele en groep EQ profiele van die bestuurderspan in 'n organisasie sowel as die korrelasie tussen die profiele en sosiodemografiese, psigologiese en werksomgewings faktore te bepaal. Die assosiasie tussen EQ en veranderlikes soos demografie (ouderdom en geslag), bestuursposisie en bestuurservaring, die aantal spanlede wat direk aan die bestuurder rapporteer, die termyn van diens by die huidige organisasie, persepsies van werksbevrediging, werksverbintenis, werksgeborgenheid sowel as persoonlike styl (voeler, intuiter, denker, sensor) en konflik styl (kompeterend, samewerkend, middelweg, ontduikend, versoenend) was bestudeer. Data opname vir die studie was van sewe-en-twintig gevallestudies deur 'n opname metodologie. Die gevallestudie was bestuurders van die Weskaap Klere Industrie Bedingingsraad. Die metings instrumente wat gebruik was vir die opname van die data, sluit in die BarOn EQ-i, 'n algemene EQ vraelys sowel as 'n kwalitatiewe vraelys. Data was saamgestel op 'n Microsoft Office 2000 Excel program en ge-analiseer met beskrywende statistieke en ANOVA. Die navorser het die data van die BarOn EQ-i en die algemene EQ vraelys deur die algemene liniere model (GLM) weergawe van ANOVA ge-analiseer. Die resultate was bevestig deur 'n kwalitatiewe vraelys. Daar was bevind dat vroue bestuurders gemiddeld 'n hoer EQ telling as mans het. Geen statistiese noemenswaardige verskille was gevind in die EQ tellings van die bestuurders in die steekproef vergeleke met ouderdomsgroep, bestuursposisie, bestuurservaring, die aantal spanlede wat direk aan die bestuurder rapporteer, die termyn van diens by die huidige organisasie sowel as persoonlikheid en konflik stylle. In reaksie op werksverwante vrae, het die meerderheid van die bestuurders aangedui dat hulle totale werksbevrediging het, terwyl 'n noemenswaardige aantal aangedui het dat hulle, werksverbintenis en werksgeborgenheid ontbeer. Deur die kwalitatiewe terugvoering, is daar indikasies dat emosionele intelligensie wel bepalend kan wees in die werksomgewing. Die studie het voorstelle aan die organisasie aangevoer toepaslik op 'n individuele vlak sowel as 'n organisasie vlak. Voorstelle op 'n organisasie vlak, het ingesluit die belegging in EQ op die basis dat dit deel gemaak word van die organisasie strategie asook om die regte persone aan te stel om die proses te dryf en evalueer. Voorstelle op 'n individuele vlak sluit in 'n persoonlike ontwikkelingsplan en evaluering. Die studie het ook voorstelle vir verdere navorsing gemaak.

No description available.

The purpose of the study was to explore specific buying practices of teenage girls and to determine the influence of age and employment on shopping patterns. The buying practices investigated included use of credit, apparel purchase price, purchasing of reduced merchandise, brand name preferences, utilization of store personnel and stores patronized. The data were collected by questionnaires administered to 205 high school girls in grades 9 through 12 enrolled in the two public high schools in Carrollton, Texas. Chi square tests of independence were computed along with descriptive statistics. Buying patterns of Carrollton teenagers were found to be similar to girls in other areas of the United States. A positive correlation was found between shopping patterns and student age and employment.

This study is an assessment of preferences and the perceived satisfaction of clothing for a group of large-sized women shopping in the Dallas metropolitan area. Demographic information was gathered from the respondents to compare the relationship between the clothing preferences and the demographic variables. The participants in this study were sixty large-sized women who shopped in two large-sized specialty stores in Dallas, Texas. The data were collected by use of a personal interview instrument developed by the researcher. This study concludes that large-sized women perceived the selection of large-sized clothing ranging from good to fair with variation in their satisfaction of style, price, fabric, and availability. Large-sized women prefer the following style features: the A-line skirt, the V-neckline, the A-line dress, the bishop sleeve, the solid fabric design, and the color green.

O estudo relaciona temas relevantes e atuais: a economia solidária e a indústria têxtil e de confecção inserida no contexto contemporâneo da moda. As propostas da economia solidária vão ao encontro das questões sociais e ambientais, evidenciadas nos últimos anos em decorrência das revelações sobre a precarização do trabalho e a exploração de recursos naturais na cadeia têxtil e de confecção e, sugere uma nova forma de economia, que visa a geração de renda e trabalho. Por outro lado, apresentase relevante observar a aplicação de atributos relativos à construção da moda brasileira, que fazem referência à elementos da natureza tropical e edênica, considerados nesta pesquisa como referências do Mito Fundador. Como um empreendimento econômico solidário atuante na indústria têxtil e de confecção nacional poderia se desenvolver, a partir da identificação e aplicação de atributos da moda brasileira em sua produção? Este estudo propõe identificar atributos identitários relativos ao Mito Fundador que compõe a moda brasileira e verificar a aplicação de tais atributos em empreendimento econômicos solidários do setor de confecção. Para isso, foram realizados estudos de fundamentação teórica sobre economia solidária no Brasil e sua atuação na indústria têxtil e de confecção e sobre a moda brasileira sob a ótica do Mito Fundador, cujos resultados propiciaram a elaboração de sistematizações necessárias à criação de categorias de análise, respectivamente, sobre os temas de Economia Solidária e atributos identitários relativos ao mito fundador que compõe a moda brasileira contemporânea. Os resultados obtidos nas etapas bibliográfica e estudo de campo revelam que os princípios fundamentais da economia solidária estão presentes e regem as ações e decisões de cada empreendimento, sobretudo a ética, o respeito ao meio ambiente e a valorização do trabalhador, porém, ressalta-se como desafio do trabalho solidário concentrar-se em nichos de mercado ainda iniciantes e sem investimentos governamentais. Nos empreendimentos de economia solidária, a elaboração de peças com técnicas artesanais é um potencial de identidade do fazer manual brasileiro que promove os conceitos de economia solidária na parceria do trabalho cooperado de artesãs. A pesquisa conclui ser recomendável a ampliação de parcerias entre empreendimentos de economia solidária, a divulgação organizada para a transmissão de seus principais valores aos consumidores, o investimento governamental em educação e capacitação de trabalhadores e o processo de produção orientado por projetos concebidos com atuação da área de Design de forma colaborativa / The study relates relevant and current themes: the solidarity economy and the textile and clothing industry inserted in the contemporary context of fashion. Solidarity economys proposals meet the social and environmental issues evidenced in recent years as a result of the revelations about the precariousness of labor and the exploitation of natural resources in the textile and clothing chain, and proposes a new form of economy aimed at the generation of income and work to the excluded population. On the other hand, it is relevant to observe the application of attributes related to the construction of the Brazilian fashion that refer to the elements of tropical and Edenic nature, considered in this research as references of the Founding Myth. How could a solidary economic enterprise operating in the Brazilian textile and clothing industry develop from the identification and application of attributes of Brazilian fashion in its production? This study proposes to identify attributes related to the Founding Myth that composes the Brazilian fashion and verify the application of such attributes in solidarity economic enterprises of the clothing manufacturing sector with the intention of presenting development perspectives of solidarity economy in the textile and clothing industry in the current context of national fashion, as sustainable means of growth of the domestic market and participation in the foreign market. The results obtained in the bibliographic and field studies show that the fundamental principles of solidarity economy are present and govern the actions and decisions of each enterprise, above all, ethics, respect for the environment and the valorization of the worker, however, we emphasize the challenge of this work to be restricted to beginning niche markets and lacking government investments. In the solidarity economy enterprises, the elaboration of garments with artisan techniques is a potential of the Brazilian manual making that promotes the concepts of solidarity economy in the cooperative work of artisans. The research concludes that it is advisable the expansion of partnerships between solidarity economy enterprises, the organized dissemination for the transmission of its main values to consumers, government investment in education and training of workers and the production process oriented by projects conceived in the Design area in a collaborative manner

Submitted by Elba Lopes (elba.lopes@fecap.br) on 2016-09-19T20:01:16Z No. of bitstreams: 2 DOUGLA_ BOD??_DO_NASCIMENTO.pdf: 3995834 bytes, checksum: 315dd4e835c8d114bcd4bbe83d0c4bf8 (MD5) license_rdf: 0 bytes, checksum: d41d8cd98f00b204e9800998ecf8427e (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2016-09-19T20:01:16Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 2 DOUGLA_ BOD??_DO_NASCIMENTO.pdf: 3995834 bytes, checksum: 315dd4e835c8d114bcd4bbe83d0c4bf8 (MD5) license_rdf: 0 bytes, checksum: d41d8cd98f00b204e9800998ecf8427e (MD5) Previous issue date: 2015-08-26 / The market growth of the creative economy and the arising of the international accounting standards that comes to clarify the goal of the financial statements that is the disclose of a Company fair value to its stakeholders. The study???s goal is to verify if in the financial statements of a Company inside the creative economy reflects its fair value regarding the records of the intangibles and competitive advantages. The study was made thru the analysis of the financial statement and the financial reports from years 2013 and 2014. In order to reach the goal of the study we performed contents analysis add to documentation analysis, with what try seeking in the contents of the financial statements and financial reports evidences of intangible assets and competitive advantages that are not record in CIA Hering financial statement. Performing all analytical procedures in the report`s contents trying to identify eleven (11) elements listed and elaborated from an theoretical research that eight (8) regard intangible and three (3) regard competitive advantages. It was found that from the eleven elements we seek, only six was found in one of the reports analyzed, therefore, five elements wasn???t find in both reports. The data collected are analyzed and described over this study. / Com o crescimento do mercado da economia criativa e com o advindo das normas internacionais de contabilidade, que veio elucidar que a representa????o do valor justo da companhia ?? o objetivo das demonstra????es financeiras elaboradas aos stakeholders. O objetivo deste estudo ?? verificar se o n??vel de divulga????o dos ativos intang??veis e os diferenciais competitivos nas demonstra????es financeiras de uma empresa da economia criativa refletem o seu valor justo, realizando uma an??lise das Demonstra????es Financeiras e os Relat??rios da Administra????o dos anos de 2013 e 2014. Para atingir este objetivo proposto, realizou-se um estudo baseado na t??cnica de an??lise documental combinado com a an??lise de conte??do, com os quais buscou identificar, no conte??do das demonstra????es financeiras e dos relat??rios da administra????o, evid??ncias de ativos intang??veis e diferenciais competitivos que n??o est??o registrados nas demonstra????es financeiras da CIA Hering. Tendo realizado a an??lise do conte??do desses relat??rios e buscando identificar 11 elementos, listados e elaborados a partir do levantamento te??rico, sendo estes, 8 referentes ?? intang??veis e 3 referentes ?? diferenciais competitivos. Foi constatado que, desses 11 elementos buscados, somente 6 foram encontrados em um dos relat??rios analisados ou em ambos, sendo assim, 5 desses elementos n??o foram encontrados em nenhum destes relat??rios. Os dados coletados s??o analisados e descritos no desenvolvimento deste estudo.

As empresas têxteis e de confecção cada vez mais vem perdendo competitividade nos mercados interno e externo. Elas se encontram em um hiato no mercado global, onde não conseguem competir com os preços praticados pelos países asiáticos nos produtos de menor valor agregado e, dentre os artigos de alto valor agregado, concorrem pelos mesmos mercados com grandes marcas europeias e norte-americanas já consolidadas internacionalmente. Diante deste cenário, considera-se a participação no mercado internacional uma relevante alternativa para a sobrevivência de empresas que enfrentam a competição global, pois competir por mercados mais exigentes capacita as empresas a oferecerem melhores produtos e eleva o nível de inteligência empresarial, ou seja, um ambiente desafiador, característico de um mercado global, contribui para a evolução das empresas. Numa economia globalizada caracterizada pela alta competitividade, qualidade dos produtos e concorrência acirrada, cada vez mais o êxito empresarial depende da capacidade da empresa inovar, principalmente, tecnologicamente, lançando novos produtos no mercado, a um preço menor, com uma qualidade melhor e a uma velocidade maior do que seus concorrentes. A fim de avaliar o quanto as empresas estão preparadas para enfrentarem esta competição e se inserirem cada vez mais no mercado internacional, esta dissertação procurou identificar os fatores formadores de valor presentes nas empresas brasileiras produtoras de têxteis e confeccionados que impactam nos seus desempenhos em inovação para, então, analisar como tal desempenho pode influenciar na competitividade internacional, identificando possíveis gargalos e entraves. Para a obtenção dos resultados foi realizada uma pesquisa de avaliação (survey) com uma amostra de 63 empresas dos segmentos têxteis e de confecção participantes do Programa Texbrasil da Abit, exportadoras e não exportadoras. Para a coleta dos dados, foi elaborado um instrumento de - 7 - pesquisa (questionário estruturado) com base na literatura sobre o tema. Para complementar o trabalho, foi realizada uma etapa qualitativa, a partir de entrevistas semi-estruturadas com especialistas do setor. Os resultados indicam que o desenvolvimento de inovações tem relação positiva com o desempenho da amostra estudada no mercado internacional. As empresas exportadoras estão mais estruturadas em relação à presença de fatores facilitadores para o desenvolvimento de inovações, quando comparadas às empresas não exportadoras. Os testes de regressão linear demonstraram que os aspectos relacionados ao porte das empresas, definição e compartilhamento da estratégia, estabelecimento de parcerias e o lançamento de produtos inovadores são fatores que vem impactando positivamente na participação dessas empresas no mercado internacional. Contudo, elas ainda apresentam práticas incipientes com relação à estrutura de gestão para uma estratégia competitiva baseada em inovações. A baixa qualificação da mão de obra; o pouco conhecimento e uso de regras de propriedade intelectual; a ausência de recursos físicos e financeiros; a baixa atividade de P, D & I, e o pouco conhecimento e uso dos recursos públicos destinados ao apoio a inovação, são considerados entraves para o desenvolvimento de inovações nas empresas estudadas, tanto exportadoras, como não exportadoras, sendo este cenário mais evidenciado nas empresas de menor porte e pertencentes ao elo de confecção. / Brazilian textile and apparel companies are losing more and more competitiveness in domestic and foreign markets. They are on a hiatus in the global market, where they are unable to compete with the prices practiced by Asian countries on lower added value products and, among higher added value items, they are competing for the same markets with major European and North American brands that are already established internationally. In the face of this scenario, participation in the international market is considered to be a relevant alternative for the survival of companies that are facing global competition, since competing for more demanding markets enables companies to offer better products and raise the bar on corporate intelligence; in other words, the challenging environment that is characteristic of a global market contributes to corporate growth. In a globalized economy characterized by high competitiveness, product quality and heated competition, corporate success increasingly depends on a company\'s ability to innovate, especially in technological terms, launching new products in the market faster than its competitors can, at a lower price and with better quality. In order to assess how prepared companies are to take on this competition and mover further and further into the international market, this dissertation sought to identify the value-forming factors found at Brazilian textile and apparel production companies that impact their performance in innovation. Next, an analysis was performed of how this performance could influence international competitiveness, identifying possible bottlenecks and barriers. To obtain results, a survey was applied using a sample of 63 exporting and nonexporting companies in the textile and apparel industries that are members of Abit\'s Texbrasil Program. To collect data, a survey instrument (structured questionnaire) was created based on literature on this topic. To add to this work, a qualitative stage was carried out, based on semi-structured interviews with industry specialists. - 9 - The results indicate that the development of innovations is positively related to the performance in the international market of the sample studied. The exporting companies are more structured in relation to the presence of factors that facilitate development of innovation, as compared to non-exporting companies. Linear regression tests show that aspects related to company size, definition and sharing of strategy, establishment of partnerships, and the launch of innovative products are factors that have had a positive impact on the participation of these companies in the international market. Nevertheless, their practices are still incipient insofar as the management structure is concerned for a competitive strategy based on innovations. The labor force\'s low qualifications; little knowledge and use of intellectual property rules; a lack of physical and financial resources; low R, D & I activities; and little knowledge and use of public resources earmarked for support of innovation are considered to be obstacles to development of innovations at the companies studied, both for exporters and non-exporters, with this scenario being more evident at smaller companies that are part of the apparel chain.