O objetivo principal desta tese é desenvolver um framework de formação e integração de indivíduos e equipes na gestão de design para empresas da indústria do vestuário, sustentado pelos conceitos de competências (competências individuais, coletivas e organizacionais). Para alcançar o objetivo geral, foram elaborados os objetivos específicos, que correspondem aos cinco artigos constituintes desta tese. O primeiro artigo tem como proposta identificar as competências e delinear como estas relacionam-se e articulam-se no âmbito da Gestão de Design, por meio de uma revisão sistemática de literatura, identificando inter-relações e conexões possíveis sobre o tema em questão bem como aspectos relacionados às competências e à gestão de design. O segundo visa propor um modelo conceitual que evidencie relações e conexões entre aspectos atrelados às competências individuais, coletivas e organizacionais na gestão de design. Já o terceiro artigo objetiva investigar o entendimento dos especialistas sobre competências em gestão de design, assim como as articulações e fatores intervenientes no contexto da indústria do vestuário da região sul do Brasil. Este artigo também apresenta como objetivo conhecer a estruturação das equipes de design e o relacionamento destas com a organização, identificando quem são os agentes participantes destas equipes. O quarto artigo visa a sistematizar o processo de desenvolvimento de produtos e seus envolvidos, identificando fases e atividades do profissional de design que são determinantes para a ocorrência da gestão de design no contexto analisado. Para finalizar, o quinto artigo tem como objetivo relacionar o modelo conceitual ao processo de desenvolvimento de produtos e suas fases bem como as atividades do profissional de design, resultando em um framework representativo da indústria do vestuário. Este artigo também objetiva avaliar a aplicabilidade do framework proposto para viabilidade e melhor estruturação da gestão de design em empresas da indústria do vestuário, pela ótica de especialistas do setor envolvidos com a gestão de design. A metodologia utilizada neste trabalho tem caráter exploratório. Em um primeiro momento, foi realizada uma revisão sistemática de literatura, de natureza aplicada e, em um segundo momento, uma pesquisa qualitativa, a partir de um estudo multicaso, com realização de entrevistas em profundidade. Como resultado, foi desenvolvido um framework de formação e integração de indivíduos e equipes na gestão de design para empresas da indústria do vestuário, sustentado pelos conceitos de competências. / The main purpose of this thesis is to develop a framework for training and integration of individuals and teams in design management for companies in the apparel industry, supported by the concepts of competencies (individual, collective and organizational). In order to achieve it, specific purposes were developed, which correspond to the five constituent items of this thesis. The first article is to show how competencies relate and articulate within the Design Management, through a systematic literature review, identifying inter-relationships and connections possible on the subject in question as well as aspects related to competencies and design management. The second proposes a conceptual model that provides evidence about relationships and connections between aspects linked to individual, collective and organizational competencies in design management. The third article aims at investigate the understanding of experts on competencies in design management, as well as the joints and intervening factors in the context of apparel industry in southern Brazil. In addition, this paper presents the objective of ascertaining the structuring of design teams and the relationship of these with the organization, identifying who the participant agents of these teams are. The fourth article aims at systematize the product development process and its stakeholders, identifying determinant moments for the occurrence of design management in the analyzed context. Finally, the fifth paper aims at relate the conceptual model to the product development process and its determinant moments, resulting in a representative framework of the apparel industry. This article also aims at evaluate the applicability of the proposed framework for feasibility and better structuring of design management in companies in the apparel industry, from the perspective of industry experts involved with the design management. The methodology used in this study is exploratory. At first, a systematic literature review of applied nature was developed and, in a second phase, a qualitative research from a multi case study with in-depth interviews was conducted. As a result, we developed a framework for training and integration of individuals and teams in design management for companies in the apparel industry, supported by the concepts of competence.

In the last decades sustainability has become a major topic in society. The population isgrowing, which has increased production and has resulted in a negative impact on the environment. The fashion industry has become a big contributor to the negative impact on the environment through fast fashion. Although consumers continue buying low price garmentson a weekly basis, more and more consumers are becoming more aware of sustainability. As aresult, sustainable labels have entered the industry with a controversy confusing consumers with the different labels available in all industries. It has also created doubt in the reliability of the labels expressed by consumers. Using sustainable labeling is a way of spreading information and awareness about sustainability and to understand how consumers prefer to receive information, and how this affects their purchasing behavior. This has lead to the purpose of the study, which is to explore Generation Y’s attitudes towards sustainability and sustainable labels within the fashion industry. The research was a qualitative study with an exploratory approach. The research used two focus groups from generation Y to collect empirical data about consumers’ attitudes towards fashion sustainability. The sample was purposively chosen with generation Y being the most consumption-oriented generation of all time, and more socially and environmentally aware which was preferred in this study. Conclusions that could be drawn from the study were that the participants knew about sustainable labels and could name several labels, although only in general and not in regards to apparel. The participants were also critical towards sustainability within the fashion industry due to overproduction and environmentally unfriendly materials that the industry uses, making consumer question the fashion industry’s real intentions. There is an interest insustainable clothing but it is perceived as too expensive and unavailable, where one must actively seek for sustainable products. A preferred way to receive sustainable information through labeling was to use a comprehensive regulatory requirement schemes, similar to the one the appliance industry uses.

O objetivo principal desta tese é desenvolver um framework de formação e integração de indivíduos e equipes na gestão de design para empresas da indústria do vestuário, sustentado pelos conceitos de competências (competências individuais, coletivas e organizacionais). Para alcançar o objetivo geral, foram elaborados os objetivos específicos, que correspondem aos cinco artigos constituintes desta tese. O primeiro artigo tem como proposta identificar as competências e delinear como estas relacionam-se e articulam-se no âmbito da Gestão de Design, por meio de uma revisão sistemática de literatura, identificando inter-relações e conexões possíveis sobre o tema em questão bem como aspectos relacionados às competências e à gestão de design. O segundo visa propor um modelo conceitual que evidencie relações e conexões entre aspectos atrelados às competências individuais, coletivas e organizacionais na gestão de design. Já o terceiro artigo objetiva investigar o entendimento dos especialistas sobre competências em gestão de design, assim como as articulações e fatores intervenientes no contexto da indústria do vestuário da região sul do Brasil. Este artigo também apresenta como objetivo conhecer a estruturação das equipes de design e o relacionamento destas com a organização, identificando quem são os agentes participantes destas equipes. O quarto artigo visa a sistematizar o processo de desenvolvimento de produtos e seus envolvidos, identificando fases e atividades do profissional de design que são determinantes para a ocorrência da gestão de design no contexto analisado. Para finalizar, o quinto artigo tem como objetivo relacionar o modelo conceitual ao processo de desenvolvimento de produtos e suas fases bem como as atividades do profissional de design, resultando em um framework representativo da indústria do vestuário. Este artigo também objetiva avaliar a aplicabilidade do framework proposto para viabilidade e melhor estruturação da gestão de design em empresas da indústria do vestuário, pela ótica de especialistas do setor envolvidos com a gestão de design. A metodologia utilizada neste trabalho tem caráter exploratório. Em um primeiro momento, foi realizada uma revisão sistemática de literatura, de natureza aplicada e, em um segundo momento, uma pesquisa qualitativa, a partir de um estudo multicaso, com realização de entrevistas em profundidade. Como resultado, foi desenvolvido um framework de formação e integração de indivíduos e equipes na gestão de design para empresas da indústria do vestuário, sustentado pelos conceitos de competências. / The main purpose of this thesis is to develop a framework for training and integration of individuals and teams in design management for companies in the apparel industry, supported by the concepts of competencies (individual, collective and organizational). In order to achieve it, specific purposes were developed, which correspond to the five constituent items of this thesis. The first article is to show how competencies relate and articulate within the Design Management, through a systematic literature review, identifying inter-relationships and connections possible on the subject in question as well as aspects related to competencies and design management. The second proposes a conceptual model that provides evidence about relationships and connections between aspects linked to individual, collective and organizational competencies in design management. The third article aims at investigate the understanding of experts on competencies in design management, as well as the joints and intervening factors in the context of apparel industry in southern Brazil. In addition, this paper presents the objective of ascertaining the structuring of design teams and the relationship of these with the organization, identifying who the participant agents of these teams are. The fourth article aims at systematize the product development process and its stakeholders, identifying determinant moments for the occurrence of design management in the analyzed context. Finally, the fifth paper aims at relate the conceptual model to the product development process and its determinant moments, resulting in a representative framework of the apparel industry. This article also aims at evaluate the applicability of the proposed framework for feasibility and better structuring of design management in companies in the apparel industry, from the perspective of industry experts involved with the design management. The methodology used in this study is exploratory. At first, a systematic literature review of applied nature was developed and, in a second phase, a qualitative research from a multi case study with in-depth interviews was conducted. As a result, we developed a framework for training and integration of individuals and teams in design management for companies in the apparel industry, supported by the concepts of competence.

Background: The clothing industry is a significant contributor to Earth’s pollution, depletion, and exploitation. Businesses need to become sustainable, to find long-lasting solutions where economic, social, and environmental value is created. This has birthed a new form of leadership, sustainable leadership, that puts ethical behavior and the common good above the untrammeled pursuit of profit. Business leaders must transform the way they do business, which requires changes in leadership. Purpose: The purpose of this study is to, from a leadership perspective, describe and create an understanding of how Swedish fashion brands are changing their business to become sustainable and remain competitive, and of sustainable leadership. Specifically, by exploring how business leaders work with sustainability and the challenges they face. Method: This study follows a qualitative research method and an abductive approach. Semi-structured interviews were conducted with CEOs and sustainability managers. Secondary data was gathered from sustainability reports. Findings: The organizations have made changes to their business models. Business leaders face several challenges, such as issues of maintaining quality, consumer behavior discrepancy, lack of control over suppliers, and insufficient technology. Leaders were found to show practices of sustainable leadership to remain competitive and sustainable. Conclusion: This study concludes that organizations take different strategical approaches to remain sustainable and competitive. Business models Leaders must create long-lasting stakeholder relationships, a supportive company culture, set clear goals, and develop employees to be successful in sustainability work. New developments in recycling technology and increased consumer awareness are called for to further drive an increased sustainable development in the industry.

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In recent years, the consumption of clothes has increased extensively due to diminishing quality and low prices of garments along with ever-faster changing fashion trends. The linear business model results in products with a short lifespan and clutter of idle goods. With the growing awareness of environmental and social impact among the consumers; alternative business models (rental/lease, swap, resale) designed to intensify the utilization of clothes and enable sharing activities and collaborative consumption are emerging. However, the market share of these models is still low. This study aims to understand what are the barriers that hurdle; motivations that drive consumers’ adoption to collaborative fashion consumption; and how companies create and configure values to encourage consumers to partake in these innovative business models. Through a systematic literature review of 41 peer-reviewed articles, we found that the drivers for consumers towards collaborative consumption models are steered by economic factors, emotional factors, social factors, and sustainability values. While consumer barriers are namely, financial risk, arrangement, performance risk, social risk, psychological risk/lack of ownership, and lack of trust and information. It was also discovered that the collaborative fashion consumption models, in particular, rental/lease, swap, and resale are different in nature. Finally, we analyzed the existing literature and identified how companies can create, configure and capture values in these business models. This study is one of the very few to explore the interrelationship of the consumer-related drivers and barriers and business perspective. This paper can contribute relevant knowledge to academia as well as to the fashion industry.

Corporate social responsibility is a well-discussed phenomenon where existing researchers within the field of MNEs have found an increased interest in the CSR topic. Existing research between the two topics is still at an early stage where the main reason is the complexity of defining the CSR concept, as well as the MNEs cross-border operations in multiple contexts. Further, the fast fashion industry is generally characterized by frequent production and squeezed margins to maximize profit. CSR is significantly important for MNEs operating in the fast fashion industry due to their environmental and social impact, where they have to reconsider the impact of their actions. This thesis will examine two MNEs originated from Sweden and Spain to understand the differences and similarities of the selected MNEs strategic CSR focus and actions. Further, a qualitative research method has been conducted in order to fulfill the purpose of this thesis, where the empirical data has been conducted through secondary data. The common findings of this thesis indicate that both MNEs engage in multiple CSR activities, where the strategy mainly focus on environmental and social aspects. Further, the findings illustrated a clear connection to Carroll’s Pyramid of CSR where all responsibilities were included in the strategies. The outcome of the thesis indicates that both MNEs strategies involves actions to take responsibility for global and local issues.

The fashion industry is commonly known for being responsible for large amounts of environmental damage as well as having poor working conditions. This is why many companies operating withinthe Swedish fashion industry are working with Corporate social responsibility (CSR)in orderto become more sustainable. CSR is a well-knownconcept that has been researched in many studies as well asimplemented by many companies. While there are many ways to incorporateCSRactivities, the main goal is to take responsibilityfor the actions of the company, address stakeholder interestsand work towards more sustainable operations. Besides CSR, this study also investigates the use of digital marketing and web analytics in the Swedish fashion industry. While mostcompanies activelyuse digital marketing, a large number of companies fail at utilizing the full potential of web analytics when evaluating digital marketing strategies. Furthermore, thisstudy investigates how companies in the Swedish fashion industry use digital marketing and web analytics when marketing their CSR initiatives. The purpose of this study was todevelop a deeper understanding about the role that digital marketing and web analytics have in marketing CSR initiatives in the Swedish fashion industry. The Swedish fashion industry was the context investigated in this study as the fashionindustry is at front edge with implementingCSR initiatives,and is developing into becoming a less environmentally damaging industrywith stricter regulations and more knowledgeableconsumers.This study was conducted througha qualitative method with semi structured interviews. The respondents consisted of CEOs,sustainability experts as well as business developers working within the Swedish fashion industry. Through a thematic analysis, we have found themes which in turn were analyzed regardingCSR activities, digital marketing and web analytics. The findings showed that there was an existing controversy with the marketing of CSR, which might have been due to the lack of clear guidelines and regulations restricting what can be considered as sustainable products. This situation led to some marketingwithin the industry being considered as misleading marketing, while some companies did not dare to market their CSR initiativesdue to the fearof being criticized for green washing or not doing enough. Furthermore, the findings showed that digital marketing has a largerole in the Swedish fashion industry. While some companies worked extensively with web analytics to improve their marketing campaignsand social channels, othercompanies failed at utilizing the full potential of web analytics.

The purpose of this study is to gain a deeper understanding of Gen Z’s structure in the buying decision-making process and how they value environmental sustainability within the fashion industry. In this context, the following research questions was formulated: (1) What structure does the buyer decision-making process follow for Gen Z when it comes to apparel shopping? (2) How does Gen Z value environmental sustainability when buying apparel?    Theories used in the literature review have included the main concepts of sustainability in the fashion industry, the buyer decision-making process and Gen Z. In order to clarify the relationship between the main concepts a conceptual framework was presented, which together with the theoretical framework was used to analyse the empirical data. The empirical data of this study refers to the collection of multiple interviews with individuals born between 1996-2002. By following a qualitative research method an understanding of Gen Z´s shopping behaviour and whether they are affected by environmental issues was collected. With regard to the concept being a relatively unexplored area in the business research, this thesis is based on a deductive research approach. It was concluded that the Gen Z does not follow the traditional structure of the buyer decision-making process and do not value environmental sustainability when buying apparel. Finally, the minority purchasing sustainable apparel have a higher involvement in their buyer decision-making process due to their motivation towards sustainable choices.

Denna studie handlar om sinnesmarknadsföring i fysiska butiker inom modebranschen och den utgår från konsumentens perspektiv. Syftet med studien är att analysera hur konsumenter upplever sinnesmarknadsföring i fysiska butiker inom modebranschen. Studien undersöker även hur de olika sinnena kan påverka konsumenternas köpintention. Då vi anser att sinnena syn, hörsel och känsel är mest relevanta för studien avgränsas studien till att undersöka endast de tre sinnena. Smaksinnet och luktsinnet utesluts alltså från studien. Tidigare har det forskats mycket om sinnesmarknadsföring ur företagsperspektiv och därför ville vi undersöka hur konsumenter ser på sinnesmarknadsföring i fysiska klädbutiker. Det är en kvantitativ studie med utgångspunkt i en abduktiv forskningsansats. En enkätundersökning användes som datainsamlingsmetod och den låg till grund för analysen och resultatet av studien. Utifrån tidigare forskning formades tre hypoteser vilka testades med hjälp av chi-två test i SPSS från resultatet av enkätundersökningen. Slutsatserna vilka kan dras av studien är främst att konsumenter upplever de tre sinnena som använts i studien, syn, hörsel och känsel olika mycket. Syn och känsel ansågs bidra mycket till upplevelsen och hörseln lite mindre i jämförelse med de andra. Studien visar även att konsumenter påverkas av sinnesmarknadsföring vid köptillfället. Studien visar att respondenterna påverkas till största del av sinnena syn och känsel. Hörseln anser respondenterna däremot att de inte påverkas av. / This study centers on sensory marketing in physical stores in the fashion industry and it is based on the consumer's perspective. The aim of the study is to analyze how consumers experience sensory marketing in physical stores in the fashion industry. The study also examines how the different senses can affect consumers' purchase intention. As we believe that the senses sight, sound and touch are most relevant to the study, the study is limited to examining only the three senses. The sense of taste and the sense of smell are excluded from the study. In the past, a lot of research has been done on sensory marketing from a business perspective. Therefore, we wanted to investigate how consumers view sensory marketing in physical clothing stores. This is a quantitative study based on an abductive research approach. A questionnaire survey was used to collect data, and it formed the basis for the analysis and the results of the study. Based on previous research, three hypotheses were formed which were tested using chi-squared tests in SPSS from the results of the survey. The conclusions from the study are mainly that consumers experience the three senses used in the study, sight, sound and touch differently. Sight and touch were considered to contribute a lot to the experience and sound a little less in comparison with the others. The study also shows that consumers are affected by sensory marketing at the time of purchase. The study shows that the respondents are largely affected by the senses' sight and touch. The respondents, on the other hand, believe that they are not affected by sound.