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The purpose of this study is to explore the expressions of a commercialising fashion journalistic genre by focusing on how ELLE.se, Sweden’s biggest online fashion platform, use advertorials and click-based content. This is investigated through three research questions focusing on what journalistic and marketing discourses that are apparent in advertorials and click-based material; what blend of genres that are seen in different kinds of text commercial on ELLE.se and what discursive conflicts between journalistic ideals and commercial pressure are seen in the production of advertorial content. Theories used in the study are marketisation of public discourse together with Fairclough’s Critical Discourse Analysis (CDA), the commercialisation of news and lastly genres, also focusing on fashion journalism as a genre. In order to explore the expressions a discursive analysis is used on advertorials and click- based material on ELLE.se whilst qualitative interviews with respondents producing the content are conducted to investigate the third research question. The results of the study show that numerous journalistic and marketing discourses are apparent in advertorials and click- based material, with personification through conversational discourse, the pursuit of happiness by portraying the reader as an imperfect person and a friendly brand through corporate advertising as three recurrent themes. A majority of the text commercial at ELLE.se balances between editorial content and advertisement, demonstrating many aspects of an evolving hybrid genre. Lastly, respondents in the qualitative interviews identify digitalisation, loss of journalistic quality and decreased reliability as three discursive conflicts between journalistic ideals and commercial pressure. The result stresses how the impact of commercialism and how journalistic and promotional discourses are continuously blended, showing aspects of ongoing hybridisation and converging genres.

A tese analisa o jornalismo de moda, problematizando o funcionamento dessa prática comunicativa em relação ao seu discurso. Concluímos que este é um discurso híbrido, fortemente constituído pela interdiscursividade do jornalismo, da publicidade e da estética. O trabalho busca compreender de que modo o discurso jornalístico de moda se organiza, como resultado de um processo, e como realiza a gestão dos outros discursos que o conformam como um gênero discursivo singular. Para examinar o funcionamento deste discurso híbrido, selecionamos três tipos de matérias jornalísticas de moda: as reportagens de desfiles, as matérias de tendências e os editoriais fotográficos. Os objetos empíricos escolhidos são as edições das revistas Elle, Estilo, Manequim, Vogue e Harper's Bazaar publicadas em 2015, formando um corpus de 4.406 páginas de matérias jornalísticas. Utilizamos como método a Análise de Discurso de linha francesa, operando especialmente o conceito de paráfrase, que permite, a partir das marcas discursivas verbais e não verbais encontradas no texto, identificar as principais estratégias dos discursos jornalístico, publicitário e estético. De acordo com nossa pesquisa, o jornalismo aciona as estratégias de novidade, atualidade, veracidade, didatismo, uso de fontes especializadas, autoridade e normatividade para cumprir suas finalidades. A publicidade aciona especialmente as estratégias de magia, idealização, personalização e linguagem figurada. Já a estética mobiliza as estratégias de cenografia, cores, escala, formação de conjuntos, estilo, ritmo e tipografia. Concluímos que, a partir de dinâmicas que cruzam certos conjuntos de estratégias, o jornalismo de moda é tecido como um discurso híbrido, e este hibridismo é sua condição de existência. Destacamos ainda que é o discurso jornalístico, atuando como regente nesse contrato de comunicação particular, que vai elencar, com maior ou menor intensidade, as estratégias dos outros dois discursos, estabelecendo diferentes movimentos de dominância para atender ao leitor do jornalismo de moda. / The thesis analyzes fashion journalism, discussing this communicative practice performance regarding its own discourse. It is concluded that this is a hybrid discourse, strongly consisted of journalism, advertising, and aesthetics discursiveness. This paper aims to understand how fashion journalism discourse is structured, as the result of a process, and how it controls the other ones that shape it into a unique discourse genre. In order to examine how this hybrid discourse works, three types of fashion news articles were selected: news reports of fashion shows, articles about trends, and fashion editorials. The empirical materials chosen are issues of Elle, Estilo, Manequim, Vogue, and Harper’s Bazaar magazines published in 2015, raising a corpus consisted of 4.406 pages of journalistic news articles. The method used was the French Discourse Analysis, being applied – especially- the paraphrase concept which allowed us, through verbal and non-verbal discursive markers found in the text, to identify the main strategies of journalistic, advertising, and aesthetic discourses. According to our research, journalism triggers strategies of discoveries, updates, veracity, didacticism, use of sources of expertise, authority, and normativeness to meet its goals. Advertising especially activates the strategies of magic, idealization, customization and figurative language. Aesthetics, on the other hand, impels scenography, color, scale, ensemble formation, style, rhythm, and typography strategies. It is concluded that, from the dynamics that cross certain strategy groups, fashion journalism is built as a hybrid discourse, and this hybridity is its own survival condition. Also, it is possible to highlight that the journalistic discourse, which works as the conductor of this particular communication agreement, is the one that will list, with more or less depth, the strategies of those other discourses, establishing different movements of preeminence to serve fashion journalism readers.

This thesis examines the development of Asian cultural modernity in the cities of Singapore, Hong Kong and Shanghai through their fashion magazines. These three cities have positioned themselves as aspirants to global city status, concurrently facilitating their ambitions by relaxing media laws and emphasising cultural production. One outcome is a growth in the production and consumption of fashion magazines. There has been a parallel growth in the consumption of and interest in fashion and self-adornment in these cities, particularly through global brand names. This thesis investigates these cultural transformations by examining the production of fashion texts in the context of their cities. It does this by utilising the concept of fashion journalism (as a product of fashion, journalism and the city) as a means of identifying the contemporary social, cultural and political articulations of these fashion texts. To do so, this research draws together a framework that takes into account different fields (fashion, journalism, modernity, city, Asia) that contribute to the concept of fashion journalism, thereby approaching fashion texts through a multi-disciplinary perspective anchored by establishing the contexts of each city and its specific magazine. The subsequent analyses of Vision (Shanghai), WestEast (Hong Kong) and Harper's Bazaar Singapore reflect and capture an evolution of these cities coming into their own. With particular emphasis on the cultural assertions of global Chinese identities in WestEast, an escape from national discourses through participating in cosmopolitanism in Harper's, and the emphasis on popular visual culture as a form of popular literacy and knowledge formation in Vision. These findings contribute firstly, towards an understanding of the issues occurring in the cultural modernisation of these cities and secondly, of fashion journalism as a promoter of the experiences of cultural modernity in Asia.

[pt] O presente estudo busca compreender o modo como se dá a representação da moda e do consumo femininos no Brasil, tendo como objeto de análise a colu-na Garotas do Alceu , criada pelo ilustrador Alceu Penna, veiculada entre 1938 e 1964 na revista O Cruzeiro e tida como uma referência essencial de moda e comportamento para as mulheres daquele período. Para isso, realizou-se uma pesquisa de caráter qualitativo através de análise textual de conteúdo, com base em referenciais teóricos que abordam discursos sobre moda, consumo, jornalismo e sociabilidade feminina a partir de uma perspectiva cultural. A pesquisa tem como referência ainda, os elementos históricos relacionados às práticas de moda e consumo femininos no Brasil, bem como à imprensa feminina e ao jornalismo de moda praticado no país. Por ser o Rio de Janeiro a cidade responsável por ditar padrões de moda e comportamento no Brasil no período pesquisado, sendo inclusive a cidade escolhida como cenário para a coluna Garotas do Alceu , tomamos a capital carioca como referência para esta pesquisa. / [en] The present study seeks to understand the way in which the representation of women s fashion and consumption is presented in Brazil, having as object of analysis the Garotas do Alceu column, created by the illustrator Alceu Penna, published between 1938 and 1964 in the O Cruzeiro magazine and considered as an essential reference of fashion and behavior for women of that period. For this, a qualitative research was conducted through content textual analysis, based on theoretical references that approach discourses about fashion, consumption, journalism and female sociability from a cultural perspective. The research also has historical references related to women s fashion and consumption practices in Brazil, as well as the women s press and fashion journalism practiced in the country. Because Rio de Janeiro is the city responsible for dictating fashion and behavior patterns in Brazil during the period studied, including the city chosen as the setting for the Garotas do Alceu column, we took the capital of Rio de Janeiro as a reference for this research.

A tese analisa o jornalismo de moda, problematizando o funcionamento dessa prática comunicativa em relação ao seu discurso. Concluímos que este é um discurso híbrido, fortemente constituído pela interdiscursividade do jornalismo, da publicidade e da estética. O trabalho busca compreender de que modo o discurso jornalístico de moda se organiza, como resultado de um processo, e como realiza a gestão dos outros discursos que o conformam como um gênero discursivo singular. Para examinar o funcionamento deste discurso híbrido, selecionamos três tipos de matérias jornalísticas de moda: as reportagens de desfiles, as matérias de tendências e os editoriais fotográficos. Os objetos empíricos escolhidos são as edições das revistas Elle, Estilo, Manequim, Vogue e Harper's Bazaar publicadas em 2015, formando um corpus de 4.406 páginas de matérias jornalísticas. Utilizamos como método a Análise de Discurso de linha francesa, operando especialmente o conceito de paráfrase, que permite, a partir das marcas discursivas verbais e não verbais encontradas no texto, identificar as principais estratégias dos discursos jornalístico, publicitário e estético. De acordo com nossa pesquisa, o jornalismo aciona as estratégias de novidade, atualidade, veracidade, didatismo, uso de fontes especializadas, autoridade e normatividade para cumprir suas finalidades. A publicidade aciona especialmente as estratégias de magia, idealização, personalização e linguagem figurada. Já a estética mobiliza as estratégias de cenografia, cores, escala, formação de conjuntos, estilo, ritmo e tipografia. Concluímos que, a partir de dinâmicas que cruzam certos conjuntos de estratégias, o jornalismo de moda é tecido como um discurso híbrido, e este hibridismo é sua condição de existência. Destacamos ainda que é o discurso jornalístico, atuando como regente nesse contrato de comunicação particular, que vai elencar, com maior ou menor intensidade, as estratégias dos outros dois discursos, estabelecendo diferentes movimentos de dominância para atender ao leitor do jornalismo de moda. / The thesis analyzes fashion journalism, discussing this communicative practice performance regarding its own discourse. It is concluded that this is a hybrid discourse, strongly consisted of journalism, advertising, and aesthetics discursiveness. This paper aims to understand how fashion journalism discourse is structured, as the result of a process, and how it controls the other ones that shape it into a unique discourse genre. In order to examine how this hybrid discourse works, three types of fashion news articles were selected: news reports of fashion shows, articles about trends, and fashion editorials. The empirical materials chosen are issues of Elle, Estilo, Manequim, Vogue, and Harper’s Bazaar magazines published in 2015, raising a corpus consisted of 4.406 pages of journalistic news articles. The method used was the French Discourse Analysis, being applied – especially- the paraphrase concept which allowed us, through verbal and non-verbal discursive markers found in the text, to identify the main strategies of journalistic, advertising, and aesthetic discourses. According to our research, journalism triggers strategies of discoveries, updates, veracity, didacticism, use of sources of expertise, authority, and normativeness to meet its goals. Advertising especially activates the strategies of magic, idealization, customization and figurative language. Aesthetics, on the other hand, impels scenography, color, scale, ensemble formation, style, rhythm, and typography strategies. It is concluded that, from the dynamics that cross certain strategy groups, fashion journalism is built as a hybrid discourse, and this hybridity is its own survival condition. Also, it is possible to highlight that the journalistic discourse, which works as the conductor of this particular communication agreement, is the one that will list, with more or less depth, the strategies of those other discourses, establishing different movements of preeminence to serve fashion journalism readers.

A tese analisa o jornalismo de moda, problematizando o funcionamento dessa prática comunicativa em relação ao seu discurso. Concluímos que este é um discurso híbrido, fortemente constituído pela interdiscursividade do jornalismo, da publicidade e da estética. O trabalho busca compreender de que modo o discurso jornalístico de moda se organiza, como resultado de um processo, e como realiza a gestão dos outros discursos que o conformam como um gênero discursivo singular. Para examinar o funcionamento deste discurso híbrido, selecionamos três tipos de matérias jornalísticas de moda: as reportagens de desfiles, as matérias de tendências e os editoriais fotográficos. Os objetos empíricos escolhidos são as edições das revistas Elle, Estilo, Manequim, Vogue e Harper's Bazaar publicadas em 2015, formando um corpus de 4.406 páginas de matérias jornalísticas. Utilizamos como método a Análise de Discurso de linha francesa, operando especialmente o conceito de paráfrase, que permite, a partir das marcas discursivas verbais e não verbais encontradas no texto, identificar as principais estratégias dos discursos jornalístico, publicitário e estético. De acordo com nossa pesquisa, o jornalismo aciona as estratégias de novidade, atualidade, veracidade, didatismo, uso de fontes especializadas, autoridade e normatividade para cumprir suas finalidades. A publicidade aciona especialmente as estratégias de magia, idealização, personalização e linguagem figurada. Já a estética mobiliza as estratégias de cenografia, cores, escala, formação de conjuntos, estilo, ritmo e tipografia. Concluímos que, a partir de dinâmicas que cruzam certos conjuntos de estratégias, o jornalismo de moda é tecido como um discurso híbrido, e este hibridismo é sua condição de existência. Destacamos ainda que é o discurso jornalístico, atuando como regente nesse contrato de comunicação particular, que vai elencar, com maior ou menor intensidade, as estratégias dos outros dois discursos, estabelecendo diferentes movimentos de dominância para atender ao leitor do jornalismo de moda. / The thesis analyzes fashion journalism, discussing this communicative practice performance regarding its own discourse. It is concluded that this is a hybrid discourse, strongly consisted of journalism, advertising, and aesthetics discursiveness. This paper aims to understand how fashion journalism discourse is structured, as the result of a process, and how it controls the other ones that shape it into a unique discourse genre. In order to examine how this hybrid discourse works, three types of fashion news articles were selected: news reports of fashion shows, articles about trends, and fashion editorials. The empirical materials chosen are issues of Elle, Estilo, Manequim, Vogue, and Harper’s Bazaar magazines published in 2015, raising a corpus consisted of 4.406 pages of journalistic news articles. The method used was the French Discourse Analysis, being applied – especially- the paraphrase concept which allowed us, through verbal and non-verbal discursive markers found in the text, to identify the main strategies of journalistic, advertising, and aesthetic discourses. According to our research, journalism triggers strategies of discoveries, updates, veracity, didacticism, use of sources of expertise, authority, and normativeness to meet its goals. Advertising especially activates the strategies of magic, idealization, customization and figurative language. Aesthetics, on the other hand, impels scenography, color, scale, ensemble formation, style, rhythm, and typography strategies. It is concluded that, from the dynamics that cross certain strategy groups, fashion journalism is built as a hybrid discourse, and this hybridity is its own survival condition. Also, it is possible to highlight that the journalistic discourse, which works as the conductor of this particular communication agreement, is the one that will list, with more or less depth, the strategies of those other discourses, establishing different movements of preeminence to serve fashion journalism readers.

Объект ВКР – отечественная и зарубежная фэшн-журналистика. Цель работы – выявление закономерностей и различий развития модной журналистики в России и за рубежом. Методы исследования: типологический анализ интернет-изданий «Vogue», «Elle», «Cosmopolitan»; контент-анализ, сравнительно-сопоставительный анализ. Результатом работы стали практические рекомендации для дальнейшего изучения фэшн-журналистики в российских и зарубежных СМИ. Научная новизна работы заключается в уточнении тенденций фэшн-журналистики на текущий год, рассмотрении аспектов влияния социальной повестки на редакционную политику глянца, а также отражения политических событий в публикациях. Издания «Vogue», «Elle», «Cosmopolitan» ранее не рассматривались исследователями в качестве эмпирического материала для сравнения контент-анализа между отечественным и зарубежными (в нашем случае — французским и американским) изданиями. Область применения полученных результатов – фэшн-журналистика, научные труды, медиакоммуникации. Значимость работы заключается в необходимости отслеживания развития модной журналистики, как одного из обширных направлений развлекательной журналистики, и, тем самым, понимании тенденций в современном обществе. / The object of the WRC is domestic and foreign fashion journalism. The purpose of the work is to identify patterns and differences in the development of fashion journalism in Russia and abroad. Research methods: typological analysis of the Internet publications "Vogue", "Elle", "Cosmopolitan"; content analysis, comparative analysis. The work resulted in practical recommendations for further study of fashion journalism in Russian and foreign media. The scientific novelty of the work lies in clarifying the trends in fashion journalism for the current year, considering aspects of the influence of the social agenda on the editorial policy of the gloss, as well as reflecting political events in publications. The publications Vogue, Elle, Cosmopolitan have not previously been considered by researchers as empirical material for comparing content analysis between domestic and foreign (in our case, French and American) publications. The scope of the obtained results is fashion journalism, scientific works, media communications. The significance of the work lies in the need to track the development of fashion journalism, as one of the broad areas of entertainment journalism, and, thereby, understanding the trends in modern society.

The aim of this work is the qualitative analysis of the new wave of female gaze photographers with a comparison of the female gaze pioneers. For this purpose, there were used photographs by Arvida Bystr​öm​, Petra Collins, Harley Weir, and Cindy Sherman, Nan Goldin, Corinne Day, which were published in fashion magazines such as ​Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, i-D, Dazed, and ​Vice​. The theoretical part examined how female identity has been shaped by western culture and dominant ideology, and how patriarchy paradigm has influenced the visual representation of women in art, pop culture, and advertisement. It is shown through key feminist concepts including Simone De Beauvoir, Betty Friedan, Judith Butler, John Berger, Laura Mulvey, theory of young girl, gagafeminism, and xenofeminism. The second part of the thesis is dedicated to social semiotics analysis of each photograph and the results of this research, which show changes of topics in the female gaze content and the shift to social media-related topics and the virtual representation of women. The work could enrich further research in the field of feminist aesthetics, fashion journalism, photography, advertisement, and social media.